Need clutch help, getting frustrated.

[andrewb70]

I don't really want to start a huge shit storm here, but why don't more people just run the 3/4" Wilwood?

The LS1 f-bodies stock MC is 3/4".

Andrew

[theantirotor]

I don't really want to start a huge shit storm here, but why don't more people just run the 3/4" Wilwood?

The LS1 f-bodies stock MC is 3/4".

Andrew

Yeah thats kind of my point.  Last time my car was up and running I ran (with no problems) on a stock F body master cylinder for thousands of miles.  I am going Wilwood now, but it is a 3/4" and not the 7/8".

[andrewb70]

I don't really want to start a huge shit storm here, but why don't more people just run the 3/4" Wilwood?

The LS1 f-bodies stock MC is 3/4".

Andrew

Yeah thats kind of my point.  Last time my car was up and running I ran (with no problems) on a stock F body master cylinder for thousands of miles.  I am going Wilwood now, but it is a 3/4" and not the 7/8".

I am with you. I guess people use a bigger bore MC to try and eliminate any chance of the clutch not disengaging. But like I said in my previous post, this can cause problems and it also makes for an unnecessarily stiff pedal.

Andrew

[Pez]

I've used the stock f body MC before with no luck. FD/FC pedal travel at the clevis is .9" and F body travel 1.2".  Extra MC bore of the 7/8 helps make up for the displacement lost with the smaller stroke.

[zeeshan]

7/8" bore master is more than enough fluid to get the clutch to disengage as long as your pedal is moving about .950"-1.100" inch. you need to do the measurements to see what shim you need and while you're doing that, throw a dial indicator on your clutch disc and measure the play. i think your clutch disc is warped or too thin. measure the clutch disc meat by measuring the distance between the clutch disc rivet and clutch disc friction material. i believe it should be 65 thousands (this number might be wrong -- its been a while, look up the right spec!)

[mottrhed]

Stickied...Woohoo

So Ive been on vaca all week so I havent been able to play with the car, but I really wanted to be able to show it off to all the family while on vaca but next year I guess. 

Tomorrow, Im going to try vacuum bleeding, then try the driveshaft test.  If no avail, I will be ordering a clutch, and apparently doing this job twice anyway fml. 

I will probably be ordering a monster as they say they never need a shim.  I just cant wrap my head around clutch manufacturers tolerances being so far off that they required customers to come up with a half ass way to put the slave closer to the pp.  Maybe its because I split microns every day, but even with lax automotive tolerances seriously, .180" shim means either their original measurements were off(and not checked/fixed) or they vary that much from one part to the next, unacceptable either way.  I have to stop ranting as I realize it a waste of energy..

[wtfx100]

Kind of having the same problem, mine would not disengage after a full gear pull. Would have to pump the pedal, after using the remote slave bleeder it got better but after each gear wot run the engagement point would be closer and closer to the floor. Mechanic insists up and down it must be the master and not the slave. Ordered the master hope it fixes the problem.

[mottrhed]

Sorry for the delay, june was a blur for me, but I played with it this morning.

Vacuum bleeder(brand new) would not pull from the remote bleeder, no idea why unless it just cant create enough vacuum to overcome the gravity since the remote bleeder is up by the brake master.  Anyway, I bled the master again, and then the remote bleeder again, played with the adjustment rod, no difference.  I believe I have a pressure plate problem, I am going to order a new clutch.  The only other variable it the wilwood master, but since I got the clutch used with no info on it Im going to hope its that.  Really didnt want to take the trans down twice, but thats life. 

 wtfx100   Any update on yours????

[Pez]

You don't vacuum bleed from the bleeder.

[mottrhed]

Lol, news to me, I figured it would be just like doing a caliper.  I guess Ill look up how to do it correctly.

[mottrhed]

Ok, just did it the correct way, no bubbles, nothing.  And no change. 

[ilovemybike]

Damn clutch!

[Pez]

Get a bleeder fitting that fits your MC and drill a hole straight through it (from top to bottom), so the cone seals to the MC, but it doesn't seal the fluid. Connect a clear hose to the nipple on the bleeder and have some pump the clutch pedal to see if the MC is actually moving fluid.  I just read that you've got a hinson modified MC.  I've seen more of those fail than I have seen slaves or pressure plates or clutches, or whatever.

[j_tizzle_84]

seems im in the same boat. was just about to start a tread then seen the sticky (good to know im not alone). after a long drive or a quarter mile pass, my clutch is not disengaging. i have tried bleeding every way i can think of  to no a vale. thought maybe fluid was boiling so swapped to dot 4 didnt  help.  i am fed up with the problem, i am going to mess with it this weekend again.  i will post what i figure out if anything.

[wtfx100]

I replaced my master with the newer hinson which comes with a firewall flex bracket thingy. Didn't solve my problem, ordered up a slave now.