General FC/5.3 Swap Questions, (5.3 General Information Thread)

[jasons]

I've spent the last couple hours reading up on 5.3 information and I have many more hours ahead of me, but this is the exciting part, right?! Come time for the actual swap I'll be wishing I was still doing the research and having fun buying parts!

I want to swap a 5.3 LM7 / Auto, (everyone is on a budget right? ) into my 87 TII.

I see folks talking about purchasing full pullouts with all accessories, but the truck accessories won't fit under the FC hood? Can you guys tell me what accessory/pulley/bracket combo you've used successfully? I'll not be running A/C or PS.

Whose motor/transmission mounts do you all use that gives clearance for everything needed, (ie: nice headers + exhaust, steering shaft, sway bar, etc...)

What about radiator mounts and drive-shafts?

Headers?

I knew where all this information was on the old site, but I'm still figuring this one out. A lot of good information here.

I'll start a build thread in a couple days.

Thank you,
-Jason

[digitalsolo]

Accessories:  F-Body, 1998-2002
Motor/tranny mounts:  Ronin, period.
Radiator:  Granny's has a kit.  So does JTR.   Not too tough to make your own either. 
Driveshaft:   Granny's has one, or any local place can make one.
Headers:   Someone recently posted what they did for an LS/Auto in an FC.   Mac mids can be made to work if you reclock the flange at the head on the driver's side (ie. cut it off and weld on a new one with the header pulled toward the motor a bit).

[jasons]

Very good. I will go with Ronin mounts. From the research I've done there's no reason to go anywhere else. Does anyone know what driveshaft to use with Ronin mounts and a 4L60e?

So, no truck accessories can be used? I'll need complete brackets, pulleys, alternator and water pump from 98-02 F-Body? All that mounts up directly to the front of the 5.3?

I'll also need 98-02 F Body oil pan, pick-up and dip-stick, correct?

What about 02 LS6 exhaust manifolds? Will those work well on the 5.3? I had them on my LS6 FC build and they seemed to flow very well...

How is steering, handling and the overall feel of a FC with a iron block 5.3?

I'm trying to get good, basic 5.3 FC info into this single thread. Hopefully it will benefit others looking into the swap.

[gc3]

depending on the year, you might need to drill/tap the ear for one of the f body alternator brackets. other than that, all accessories bolt up.

[digitalsolo]

Accessories bolt right up.   You will be missing one bolt on the alternator (what gc3 mentioned).  Don't fret about drilling/tapping, it really doesn't matter (if anyone would like to debate this, go look at a truck alternator mounting).   Yes, F-Body pan/pickup/windage.

I cannot tell the difference up front between an iron and aluminum motor, personally.

[jasons]

So do folks use the truck accessories, (alternator & water pump) on F-Body mounts or do I need to go with F-Body accessories? Seems like someone mention the truck alternator being better, but using a F-Body water pump provides more room up front between the motor and radiator...

Also, will I need to swap the 5.3 crank pulley for one from a F-Body?

Thank you for the response,
-Jason

[ALLslowNOshow]

The truck accessories sets the alt to high, and I know the truck water pump outlet gets in the way of the inlet on the car intake manifolds. That's why people opt for F-Body accessories, since it solves those problems.

By going with F-Body accessories you'll have your accessories belt line closer to engine, which is why you'll have to swap the truck crank pulley also. The only thing you could reuse is the truck alternator on the F-Body alt mount.

[gc3]

You will be missing one bolt on the alternator (what gc3 mentioned).  Don't fret about drilling/tapping, it really doesn't matter (if anyone would like to debate this, go look at a truck alternator mounting). 

to clarify, i'm not talking about the aluminum 'leg' in the back.
im talking about this hole

(not my picture)


and yea, I had a full truck accessory system, and the only part i reused was the alternator (not bracket)
even the tensioner is different.

I'm having trouble getting through my mind why someone would purchase a full pullout with accessories if they don't need the accessories. I doubt they'd be easy to sell...who wants OEM truck accessories?? 

different swaps, different accessories. Example. I ran full truck accessories on my 5.3 when i had it in my S10.
luckily i was able to trade most of my accessories to a guy that is putting an LS1 into his S10. (Fbody alternator location isnt good for S10s)
my modified truck pan went for his camaro pan, my truck alt bracket went for his camaro alt bracket, etc.

[jasons]

The truck accessories sets the alt to high, and I know the truck water pump outlet gets in the way of the inlet on the car intake manifolds. That's why people opt for F-Body accessories, since it solves those problems.

By going with F-Body accessories you'll have your accessories belt line closer to engine, which is why you'll have to swap the truck crank pulley also. The only thing you could reuse is the truck alternator on the F-Body alt mount

Perfect explanation. Thank you for putting that together for me.

What about the 01-02 F-Body exhaust manifolds with Ronin mounts and a 4l60e?

-Jason

[sevenZseven]

Very good. I will go with Ronin mounts. From the research I've done there's no reason to go anywhere else. Does anyone know what driveshaft to use with Ronin mounts and a 4L60e?

So, no truck accessories can be used? I'll need complete brackets, pulleys, alternator and water pump from 98-02 F-Body? All that mounts up directly to the front of the 5.3?

I'll also need 98-02 F Body oil pan, pick-up and dip-stick, correct? Sounds like a good time to upgrade the oil pump?

What about 02 LS6 exhaust manifolds? Will those work well on the 5.3? I had them on my LS6 FC build and they seemed to flow very well...

How is steering, handling and the overall feel of a FC with a iron block 5.3?

I'm trying to get good, basic 5.3 FC info into this single thread. Hopefully it will benefit others looking into the swap.

I'm actually gonna be doing this same swap except with a T56 very soon in a budget drift car. I'm also wondering If anyone has any  first hand experience on how that iron block effects handling..In my opinion the car could use a little extra weight up there to help the car rotate around itself better. I'm predicting it should be just right with me in the car, with it caged and the battery relocated....hoping it kinda transitions like my 350Z since its a little front heavy....

[jasons]

I cannot tell the difference up front between an iron and aluminum motor, personally.

This guy knows his stuff, so I'm confident you can take this statement seriously.
-Jason

[sevenZseven]

Somehow I missed that. I wonder what it actually balances out at weight-wise just out of curiosity...gonna go through with it regardless though.

[digitalsolo]

gc3, I've never seen a block without that hole drilled/tapped, what engines don't have it?

The one immediately to the left of it, the "armpit" of the bracket if you will, is not tapped on most truck blocks and does not exist at all on many later blocks.     If the one you noted is not tapped, I would agree that it definitely needs done and used.

In regard to weight, it's <100 lbs from the iron to the aluminum.    That's equivalent to 16.7 gallons of fuel, to give some relationship.   So full tank to empty weight equivalence.

[ilovemybike]

That's a good way of putting it, and I know that I can't tell the difference between full and empty if I don't think about it.  I've got an LM7 with granny's mounts, F body accessories, oil pan, and exhaust manifolds.  I imagine the turbo guys on here a good amount of extra weight up front, and some of them are running iron blocks. 

[gc3]

gc3, I've never seen a block without that hole drilled/tapped, what engines don't have it?

The one immediately to the left of it, the "armpit" of the bracket if you will, is not tapped on most truck blocks and does not exist at all on many later blocks.     If the one you noted is not tapped, I would agree that it definitely needs done and used.

my 2000 lm7 had no hole or threads in the hole i mentioned.
no idea what year it changed, but i've heard 'early' 5.3s need it drill/tapped.

here's a pic of when i tapped it


hmm... i dont remember putting in a bolt in the armpit.... i gotta check this later. the armpit bolt you say isnt needed?