Need a sealed fuel pump housing connector setup

[WAT TURBO?]

pegasus racing has a pin style connector. Its about 140 bucks for both ends though. Theres got to be a cheaper way to do this. I am in the same boat.

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=7668

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=7668

If you read it says not to be below fuel level, so those won't work for in tank.

Right.....It says not below FUEL LEVEL. So unless you put it on the side of the tank below the fuel level, (which you may be doing?), then it will work if you put it on the factory tank fuel hat above the fuel level.

EDIT: antirotor wins.

[digitalsolo]

What Curt said.   If the connector is below the fuel level the car is upside down.  This would indicate a problem.

[mefarri]

Yea I know what it says.  But if something says, not to be used in fuel, and you put it INSIDE the fuel tank, you're asking for trouble over time.  Would it work for a while?  Sure.  Would there be a serious risk of fuel hitting it over time, swelling the wires and breaking down the connector, you bet your ass.  I've seen people use non fuel safe wire on walbro installs only to pull them out in a few thousand miles and the wires are like gooey mush.  Fuel gets on everything in there.  How do you think the fuel ends up on the outside of the fuel pump cover necessitating the need for a sealed connection?

[Demon]

Yea I know what it says.  But if something says, not to be used in fuel, and you put it INSIDE the fuel tank, you're asking for trouble over time.  Would it work for a while?  Sure.  Would there be a serious risk of fuel hitting it over time, swelling the wires and breaking down the connector, you bet your ass.  I've seen people use non fuel safe wire on walbro installs only to pull them out in a few thousand miles and the wires are like gooey mush.  Fuel gets on everything in there.  How do you think the fuel ends up on the outside of the fuel pump cover necessitating the need for a sealed connection?

You..... are a southern non reading retard.

lol

[mefarri]

Yea I know what it says.  But if something says, not to be used in fuel, and you put it INSIDE the fuel tank, you're asking for trouble over time.  Would it work for a while?  Sure.  Would there be a serious risk of fuel hitting it over time, swelling the wires and breaking down the connector, you bet your ass.  I've seen people use non fuel safe wire on walbro installs only to pull them out in a few thousand miles and the wires are like gooey mush.  Fuel gets on everything in there.  How do you think the fuel ends up on the outside of the fuel pump cover necessitating the need for a sealed connection?

You..... are a southern non reading retard.

lol

And you don't even own your FD do you?.   

Care to tell me how I'm a retard?  Not really seeing how being from the south has anything to do with it, but ok.

If you're basing your little attack off that link saying it goes on the outside, what would it connect to?  Oh that's right, this. 

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=7669

Which is specifically states "It is not designed to be installed in the sides or base of the cell where it would be constantly submerged in fuel."  Either something can handle fuel or it can't.  I'm not betting my car going up in flames on whatever the guys at pegasus think is an "acceptable amount of deterioration over X amount of time." 

So who's the non reading retard?

[Demon]

It says the sides or the base.... sure as shit doesn't sound like the top.

You are still the non reading retard.

And yes, I co-own the FD.

[Jordan Innovations]

1) Wire size is a function of temperature, amps, and run length (how long the wire needs to be) - big pumps  pull a little under 30A continuous, and with normal-ish wire runs (15-20ft) 10ga is great.  8ga would be overkill. 

2) Just because you need 10ga to the pump(s) doesn't mean you need a connector with two 10ga pins on it... you can get to 6.0mm^2 cross section any way you'd like.  The most economical way is probably going to be 3 16ga pins for power, another couple for ground (much shorter run), or you can ground through the case with a bolt and stat-o-seal.

[mefarri]

It says the sides or the base.... sure as shit doesn't sound like the top.

You are still the non reading retard.

And yes, I co-own the FD.

No, I'm the "read it and made a thought out decision that there's a high likelihood it won't stand up over time in a stock fuel tank so I ruled it out" retard.

Nice try though.

[mefarri]

1) Wire size is a function of temperature, amps, and run length (how long the wire needs to be) - big pumps  pull a little under 30A continuous, and with normal-ish wire runs (15-20ft) 10ga is great.  8ga would be overkill. 

2) Just because you need 10ga to the pump(s) doesn't mean you need a connector with two 10ga pins on it... you can get to 6.0mm^2 cross section any way you'd like.  The most economical way is probably going to be 3 16ga pins for power, another couple for ground (much shorter run), or you can ground through the case with a bolt and stat-o-seal.

Yea I figured that'd be the case probably, like in the first one I posted above.  The run length for mine will be like 3 feet since the battery is in the bins, which is nice.    Do you have any examples of what you're going to try and work up? 

[Demon]

It says the sides or the base.... sure as shit doesn't sound like the top.

You are still the non reading retard.

And yes, I co-own the FD.

No, I'm the "read it and made a thought out decision that there's a high likelihood it won't stand up over time in a stock fuel tank so I ruled it out" retard.

Nice try though.

No, its the "I try to over think things by 100 fold and can never decide on anything and I'll end up finally finishing the car around the year 2017, when everyone else has electric cars that make twice the power of turbo LSx's."

You wonder why no one believed you last year when you said it would be running by may, right? There is 0 chance it will make it to SNS this year either.


You are literally deciding that a product that is designed to do exactly what you want, isn't going to work because you don't think it will, lol.

[mefarri]

Can't decide on anything?  Yea I've taken longer than I wanted and my guesstimate was way short.  Maybe if I had somebody else pay for half my shit like you it would move along faster....  Also, it must be pretty hard to buy a bunch of parts designed by other people and bolt them on.  A big reason it's taken me longer than I wanted to starting making actual progress is because I had to make an entire system in my head and on paper before I could take a step forward.  This is how I don't waste time and more importantly money.  And besides, why do you give a shit when the car is done? Delaying the innevtiable that it's going to be faster than you? 

On the actual topic, of which you seem to not want to stay on, it's not over thinking.  They come right out and tell you it's not meant for constant fuel exposure and I know inside the tank things are covered in fuel all the time.  So I'm choosing not to using it based of a reasonable assumption that it will fail over time.  You can go burn the car you don't own to the ground if you want to.  I'll choose to use something with no conditions on not failing.

[BeasTT]

[Demon]

I've got pretty good odds you won't be faster than me, lol.

[mefarri]

I've got pretty good odds you won't be faster than me, lol.

Haha.  You planning on adding spray?

[Demon]

I've got pretty good odds you won't be faster than me, lol.

Haha.  You planning on adding spray?

I'm done drag racing most likely, got my 9. But I am contemplating on building a high compression 500cube NA motor for fun.