Need a sealed fuel pump housing connector setup

[mefarri]

Hey guys,

I'm in need of one of you more experienced people to tell me where to get a sealed connector setup for the fuel pump bulkhead.  I'm planning on installing a Magnafuel 4303 in tank (it should fit) and I want to run 10 or 12 gauge wire to power it, completely diverting around the tiny stock wires (save for the level sender and ignition on line that will power the relay.)  But I'm having a hard time finding what would be the best style connector that's sealed to not allow fuel wicking up through the top.   The 4303 is rated at 14 amps @ 12.5V  & 45psi.  Not sure what the total peak amperage would be but I know 10 or 12 should handle it right?  I'll also need fuel safe wiring for the inside if the connector didn't come with it.

I was able to find this guy tonight which seams like it might work.  It says each 14 gauge wire supports 14 amps for 28 total.  I'd probably just wire them together to be sure.  I'd rather just find a conector with just one power and ground if I could.

http://www.msel.co.nz/Through-Tank-Sealed-Electrical-Connecto

Thanks d00dz.

[mefarri]

These guys also have every connector you'd ever want, but could be pricey.  I'm going to investigate tomorrow.

http://www.pavetechnologyco.com/index.html

[Cryptic]

I also want to redo mine. I'm using the stock wiring and that's pretty anorexic. I saw a post somewhere here that had a pretty intuitive idea, but damned if I can find it.

[Cryptic]

interesting idea here: http://www.reganrotaryracing.com/fddualfuelpumps.htm

the OE electrical connector to keep the wiring for the fuel level sensor, and two bulkhead isolator style electrical connections for the pump wiring. All are sealed without the use of any silicone goop or epoxy compounds. This is cleaner, simpler, and much more reliable.

[mefarri]

Yea I saw those and was excited until I read about how he had fuel wicking up the wire since those aren't sealed.  He ended up just using some fuel safe silicone style gasket maker but I try not to use that or teflon tape as much as I don't have to.  I like be able to take things on and off if needed and not have to re seal it.  You'd think this info would be all over the place but it I can't really find much on it. 

[Cryptic]

You probably read this too: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=847214

http://www.pavetechnologyco.com/design/pdf/1575.pdf
90 bucks.

That thread also said there is discount for multiple. Group buy anyone?


Edit... there's still has to be a way to get this done for like $10-20... jeez

[Cryptic]

http://www.summitracing.com/search/Part-Type/Electrical-Firewall-Bulkhead-Connectors/



and throw a Stat-o-Seal on it





I'm going to bed... done rambling

[WAT TURBO?]

pegasus racing has a pin style connector. Its about 140 bucks for both ends though. Theres got to be a cheaper way to do this. I am in the same boat.

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=7668

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=7668

[Jordan Innovations]

I'll get pricing/availability on a jam-nut Mil-spec connector that will work for you guys, I've been asked about this way too many times now.  Should be able to do the whole thing for less than $90.

[digitalsolo]

Jeff's method FTW.      If I still had a pump in my fuel tank, I'd have one of those style connectors.

[Speedfab]

Take pump out of tank.

/problem

/thread

If you still insist on doing this, West Marine has these things called "wire clams" that seal to a flat surface and have a rubber center that you can drill for whatever size wires to go through, and a ferrule that tightens it up so that everything seals.

[mefarri]

pegasus racing has a pin style connector. Its about 140 bucks for both ends though. Theres got to be a cheaper way to do this. I am in the same boat.

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=7668

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=7668

If you read it says not to be below fuel level, so those won't work for in tank.

[mefarri]

Cryptic,

The Summit/statoseal could possibly work, I just don't like slappin stuff together if there's a purpose built solution out there already.  That Pave piece might be a winner if Jeff's solution falls through.  I was just planning on emailing them and saying what I needed and seeing what they recommended.

I'll get pricing/availability on a jam-nut Mil-spec connector that will work for you guys, I've been asked about this way too many times now.  Should be able to do the whole thing for less than $90.

This.  ETA?  I've got a friend with an FD who'd need it before me. Probably a couple months maybe.

Take pump out of tank.

/problem

/thread

If you still insist on doing this, West Marine has these things called "wire clams" that seal to a flat surface and have a rubber center that you can drill for whatever size wires to go through, and a ferrule that tightens it up so that everything seals.

Yes I still insist.    

[zbrown]

the bigger the wire gauge the better

i have 12 gauge from my relay to the fuel pump and when i was messing with my fuel pump i ran a short jumper wirein addition to the original from the battery (in back) to the pump.  it brought voltage at the pump up a full half volt

i will be changing mine to 8 gauge

[theantirotor]

pegasus racing has a pin style connector. Its about 140 bucks for both ends though. Theres got to be a cheaper way to do this. I am in the same boat.

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=7668

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=7668

If you read it says not to be below fuel level, so those won't work for in tank.

Read a little closer.

"This harness set should only be used on the top surface of a cell, not below the fuel level."

Last time I checked, the top of the tank, is not below fuel level.