smackhead999's 6.0L N/A FC build

[smackhead999]

Figured Id start a build thread.  Ive decided to scrap my rotary setup about a month ago.  This will be my first LSx car.

Picked up an engine and other stuff while in Florida last week.  I bought a LQ4 6.0L truck engine still in truck trim.
FLorida


I had struggle for a while deciding what motor to use.  I had figured I could get a LQ9 6.0L truck engine from a junk yard in running condition for about $900.  Thats was what I intended to spend for an engine and no more.  That motor would have produced about 335hp/385tq.  Yeah I really want to see about 400hp and I would be happy, but because of my budget, the mods necessary to reach that would have to wait until next year.

Im selling my rotary turbo parts to fund this swap.

Fortunately I found this LQ4, with a mild street cam, and double valve springs.  The asking price was way out of what I wanted to spend with my budget, but I traded some parts and paid some cash, and ended up with a motor that should produce good power.  With this engine I also was able to pick up a LS1 intake manifold, F-body exhaust manifolds, LS1 waterpump, LS1 oil pan, LS1 injectors and fuel rail.  Awesome.  So I went out of my budget with the engine, but saved by scoring the extra swap stuff with it.  Not to mention the cam and springs in the motor get me closer to my HP goals.

Here is the motor in the back of my Jeep.  That was tough.  Thanks to FortuneLSX7-TT for the hook-up, and the help getting this beast in my Jeep.


So Im making progress now, I started to prep the car.  I stripped the engine bay and started to go through the front harness and remove the crap.  I am currently working on painting the engine bay.


So Im juggling between paint and wire harness right now.  I am trying to get rid of the complexity to the harness and run my own main relay and starter relay.  Kinda just simplify the overly complex harness Mazda decided was necessary.

Ordered some C6 pedistal mounts from Ebay last night too.

[smackhead999]

Holy crap.  I have to figure out how to downsize these pictures.

[HTh3r0]

i loaded my engine and trans in my 95 xj. Jeep power!

[smackhead999]

wish I had a picture of the Jeep fully loaded.  Had all of my stuff and my girls stuff for our florida trip in there plus my brothers stuff.  I drove to florida to pick up my brother and move him home.  Towed a trailer for his motorcycle too.  It was crammed.
 
Not nearly as bad as my Indianapolis trip.  That was BAD.  4 head, all of our stuff, including tent and camping stuff, in my other brothers 2000 cherokee, 4.0L.  That poor jeep pulled a 15 foot land scaping trailer with our 3 bikes and beer cooler on top of all the other crap.  She was pissing oil through the gaskets in the mountains of WV.  We were a little over the capability of that inline 6.
 
But The Grand cherokee I took to florida was V8 power.  She didnt even blink.  I think I lost 1mpg on the trip back with the motor, parts and motorcycle, with an extra person and his stuff.  The V8 WJ was the way to go!  Plus no mountains.

[HTh3r0]

i've been looking into the newer jeep v8s. I want something that can pull a trailer with my car but not be a monster truck that gets 10 mpg

[smackhead999]

Well my Jeep gets about 20-22 average mpg at 60-65.  15-16 city.  Its a 2000 Grand cherokee Limited, with 4.7L, AWD.  Its nice.  Its nice to take a trip in because it is extremely comfortable and fully loaded.  Auto climate control, power everything, leather, etc...  And it will pull a trailer too.  I did notice a definite loss of mpg above 70mph with the trailer loaded. But below that it was about the same mpg.  Its got like 270-280 hp I think, but the torque is like 305-310.  So it will get up and roll, fully loaded.

[Aaron Venable]

I've been waiting for this thread... Expect to have a permanent grin from ear to ear after its up and running.

[Aaron Venable]

Word of advice on painting the bay.... might want to get the swap done and running after everything is cut and fitted, then yank it, paint and slap it back in. I'm sure some others will tell you that you'll be pulling the engine a few times for various reasons, ie. driveshaft fitment, header fitment, routing wiring (cutting holes), mounting random stuff, etc. Just a heads up.

[smackhead999]

Thanks aaron.  I am actually doing a cheap paint job.  Flat finish, rattle can.  If I scrape it up, or have to do anymore cutting I think it will take a touch up a little easier.  I am really excited about the paintjob.  I have a little idea I came up with, and am itching to get it done.  Not so much the engine bay, but the rest of the car. 
 
I know the 6.0 is what you wanted to see... Lucky it worked out that way 

[Marshessn]

Make sure not to EVER get ANY fluids on your rattle can job or it will immediately be removed from your car.

This is obviously not possible, so take your time and do it right the first time. Or do what I had to do and remove your rattlecan job with a grinder, only to spray some epoxy, then base and clear like you should have the first time.

PPG clear isn't even PHASED by brake fluids or any other sort of solvent (acetone/brake cleaner) and it is fairly cheap at 32 bucks a quart.

[IndeedV8]

Make sure not to EVER get ANY fluids on your rattle can job or it will immediately be removed from your car.

This is obviously not possible, so take your time and do it right the first time. Or do what I had to do and remove your rattlecan job with a grinder, only to spray some epoxy, then base and clear like you should have the first time.

PPG clear isn't even PHASED by brake fluids or any other sort of solvent (acetone/brake cleaner) and it is fairly cheap at 32 bucks a quart.

 You just sold me on getting my bay repainted before I toss an engine in. I feel like you are 100% right.


 Good luck on the build Shane. Should be a beast.

[Aaron Venable]

Yeah, definately glad to see you get something with some bore size. As a plus you can always get to a 408 really easy and make 500+ wheel without breaking a sweat.
 
The other's do have a point with the rattle can job. If you must, at least use some enamel paint that takes about a day to dry. All in all, you'll spend about the same or more as opposed to spraying out of a gun. 2K Urethane clear can hold up to intermittent brake fluid and gas spillage if you clean in right away, unlike the lacquer or acrylic lacquer out of a can that will lift (wrinkle) an area twice the size of the spillage.
 
Anyway... I can't wait to see the pics of progress from your thread. Hopefully I can get the time to go back and make a build thread... maybe it will have something usefull in it.
 
 
(if you watch family guy.... i just did the compliment sandwich)

[smackhead999]

yes that was very tactful.  thankyou.  Man, Im not going rattle cuz its cheaper, cuz its really not.  But my rebuild is taking place outdoors.  I dont have a paint facility to use.  And Im not a good painter.  Oh and paint isnt in my budget.  So, it is what it is.  I dont want a show car.  Just clean... and all one color for once.  The tri-color was starting to bother me... no, no... actually quad color.  Red, blue, black, and gold.  And I dont know if I can even get an enamel, epoxy, or whatever in a satin, flat finish.

If I can spend the same amount of $$$ on paint, and put down a safe paint coat against fluids, and do it in my yard, Im all about it.

[smackhead999]

Oh and yes I tried a couple times to find pictures and a build thread for you aaron.  No such thing.  Hook it up.

[FortuneLSX7-TT]

Glad to see you starting a build thread for it. Definitely looking forward to seeing that motor get some use other than taking up space in my garage. Hopefully unloading it out of the Jeep wasn't too bad. The FD is about to go to the shop for the turbo fab, so I need to pull the motor and put the trans on it, so I'm probably going to do that this weekend. Just need you to shoot me a PM with your address so I can mail you that pan on Monday.

I agree with the others about the paint too. I've had to pull my motor several times for various reasons, and a few scratches have happened as a result. That and, sanding the engine bay is a royal pain, so go for the good stuff and do it once.