1979 SA RX-7 LS Turbo Build (8.93 @ 153)

[forcefed86]

Drilled and tapped the block for the F-body alternator mount.
mounted manifolds.
Installed balancer.
Got the belt routing and size figured out. Just waiting on an idler pulley to finish that.
Coilpacks and plugs done
120lb Fuel injectors installed
Aem EMS assembled in the 6cyl PCM case. (Picked up the whole PCM for $20)

Tapped the heater plugs for the water pump. Also drilled/tapped a 1/8t hole on the low side of the thermo housing for the steam port return. Just waiting on the plugs/fittings.

Had to drop the driver side coilpacks about 2" to clear the -8 fuel fitting I installed. Worked out well, I was able to use the f-body spark plug wires I had after lowering the coils.

Going to use LT1 plug set on the passenger side.

















Random inter-cooler shot. (31x12x4)
From when I had it outside. Looks like I'd have tons of room for headlights if I just left the bumper off... 

[Burntz]

You're using the stock LS rails???

[SSjon]

Looking good, what tensioner/pulley setup is that?

[forcefed86]

You're using the stock LS rails???

Yup.

Looking good, what tensioner/pulley setup is that?

It's just the F-body setup. I had a large 4.5" tensioner pulley laying around I tried in that pic. It didnt' work. I ended up useing a 3" pulley I believe. Like so...




Re-did my crossover for more ground clearance. Painted/wrapped it. Triple wrapped it under the converter area.

Wrapped passenger header. Made a heat shield for plugs.







Wrapped starter.



Cheap ass SFI flexplate I bought came with "grade 8" bolts that immediately stripped out when I tried to torque them. Ended up buying ARP flexplate bolts.
Luckily just the cheap bolts were chewed up and not the crank threads.



My "direct bolt-in" converter has some spacing issues. Not sure what I'll end up doing with this mess.

[WannaBeFast]

They do make spacers but also once you fully sit the converter - it does come forward  a little bit.


What crank spacer are you using? I prefer the one you can bolt on.

[forcefed86]

They do make spacers but also once you fully sit the converter - it does come forward  a little bit.


What crank spacer are you using? I prefer the one you can bolt on.

Not using any... I was told by dusty at PTC these were a direct bolt on. He uses the LS cover on the converter. I'm wondering if he forgot. This is my first LS motor and neither motor came with a flex plate or a converter. I don't know exactly what the OEM stuff looks like.  I was under the impression the spacing on the transmissions were the same? And that this would all just "bolt up". 

[digitalsolo]

I have a PTC converter and that flexplate.  I had to space with some washers to get it just right.   The instructions that came with my converter explained how to do it.

[WannaBeFast]

Use one of these to find out exactly how big your gap is - then get the proper washer and make sure you give it the required spacing. Every transmission is slightly different.

If you don't get the spacing right - you will be rebuilding the pump.

Washers are normal tho - we all had to do it. Just get the right ones.

[forcefed86]

Huh...I didn't even think to look for instructions. Serves me right. I've put in a ton of converters, never thought I'd need more leran'n. 

Thanks all... 

Also, are all you running the input shaft bushing on your glides with the PTC units? I know my old converter had it built in... so it needed to be removed. 

[zbrown]

Got your pm.

Those pads look different than mine, i will take a pic and post here

I had to use 2 washers to space and that put me right between 1/8 and 3/16

You can pull the verter out a ways, just need to make sure the tabs stay engaged in the pump


And about the bushing, did you tell ptc to put a bushing in the verter?

Run it in the converter if you can, provides a better exhaust circuit for the oil

[zbrown]

Pilot standoff from flange is around .67"


When i measure converter clearance i always use drill bits, easy

[forcefed86]

Think im hosed...


 So i just scribed around the pilot. From the flat forward surface of the pilot to the scribe line is 0.20".

Also the digital caliper reads .322" from the flexplate to the mounting pad. How far can I pull the converter forward without worrying about the pump?

Do you think I can shim this or should I send it back?

[zbrown]

Sounds just right

You obviously have the lsx pilot as it fits in the crank correctly.  The sbc pilot is shorter and bigger

I will measure my washers so you know how far i pull my converter forward off bottoming in the pump

That pilot will engage the crank plenty well pulle out a bit

[forcefed86]

I split the diff with a .20" grade-8 washer. Ended up with .122 or so. Dusty from PTC wrote me back and said as long as it's between .060" and .187" I should be good. Pilot is in a good .040 now. Also strange but Dusty told me you can run with or without the bushing on the input shaft with this converter. So its gone.

Engine/trans are in. Need to pull the pan one more time to finish up the oil return and it will be pinned for good. 

[zbrown]

yeah i measured my washers and with two together like i had, it was .19"

so right where you are at