Worth changing out slave cylinder + few simple clutch hydraulics questions

[wompa164]

Hi all, starting to research clutch hydraulics and I've got a few questions:

1) Is it worth it to replace the slave cylinder as preventative maintenance? I don't think anything's wrong with mine and there's only 46k on my pullout, but I'm thinking it might not hurt to replace it while everything's apart since it looks like kind of a PITA to do once the car is put together. Do these have a history of failing fairly quickly or spontaneously, or would I be wasting my money?

2) What kind of fitting does the LS2 slave use? I know LS1 slaves use a proprietary QD, what about the LS2s? I'm trying to figure out what connections I'll need on each end for the clutch line between the Wilwood 7/8" MC and the LS2 slave.

3) What exactly is it that Hinson 'modifies' on their Wilwood 7/8" MCs? For what it's worth, I'll be purchasing Pez's firewall mount and Wilwood MC whenever it's available, I'm just curious what 'modifications' people are describing when they refer to Hinson's kit.

4) What are people's opinions regarding speed bleeders on the clutch, and what are the recommended brands/setups people are running?

As always, thanks in advance

[Cman]

1. Yes
2. Not sure, I have LS1
3. They modify the push rod to have appropriate threads for the Mazda clevis. Also lenght if you order teh clocking spacer
4. Very necessary...maybe just desireable depending on car use. I bought one from an LS1 Tech vendor

Steve

[SuperSlow]

There is no such thing as an "LS2 slave." Its all the same t56 stuff.

As far as the modded master, im 95% sure they just simply cut the shaft shorter so it connects to the factory location at the pedal. If you do a lot of racing or speed shifting then yes I would replace it.

IMO the speed bleeder isn't necessary. Once its bled good, you shouldnt have to bleed it ever again until the system is opened again.

[nzgreenfox]

I read heaps of posts from people who could not get the clutch to work. So I decided to splash out and I bought a remote bleeder from Speedway.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/T56-Release-Bearing-Remote-Bleeder,41385.html

But this was not necessary as I bolted my gearbox /motor together before installation in the car. Set up the master cylinder and pedal box in the vice, connected the clutch line and bled it. Check to see if the clutch was releasing before installing it in the car. 
Disconnected the clutch line at the slave, installed the motor gearbox and the pedal box/master and it worked.

[largeorangefont]

Speedway also sells a t56 clutch line that has the GM quick disconnect fitting on it. I have the 30 inch clutch line for my build. You will also need their banjo bolt kit to mate the clutch line to the willwood slave.

Both of those pieces are on the link posted in above post.