Can the ARP crank pulley bolt break?

[smackhead999]

So I was putting my crank pulley on months ago, with new ARP bolt, no driveshaft or flywheel, and I had to abandon because I could not keep the engine from turning once I got the pulley about half way on.

So the pulley is half way pulled onto the crank, and the ARP pulley bolt, is pretty torqued, is there any chance of that bolt breaking when I try to finish the job?  Just thinking about it having been sitting there for a few months, with it torqued on there, and now I am going to hit it with some heat, and try to pull it the rest of the way on.

[Andrew R]

I doubt it... I installed my pulley by heating it up a bit then hitting it (ARP bolt) with an impact.

[digitalsolo]

YES.   You can in fact break it, I've seen it done.

I'd take the pulley back off, heat it up and then retry the installation.    Also, make sure you put some moly lube on the washer and the head of the bolt.  Mine bound up on the install, and it was just the head/washer sticking, not the pulley.

[V8Mongrel]

I always thought that you weren't supposed to use the bolt to put the balancer/crank hub/damper/pulley on?

It is a 16mm bolt, with an UTS of 200,000 psi.  That means 62,329 lbs of force before it ruptures.  Cast crank?  You'll likely pull the threads out of it before that bolts gives way, IMO, as it won't be made of as high quality material.  Of course, you can break anything if you try hard enough.

IIRC, Autozoo loans out a harmonic balancer and installer tool kit for free.

[digitalsolo]

The VatoZone unit won't fit.

Here's one:

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/tools-fabrication/1327735-balancer-installer-tool.html

And here's why you need to be careful:

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/1296498-broken-arp-crank-bolt.html

[V8Mongrel]

The VatoZone unit won't fit.

Fucking metric.   

Here's one:

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/tools-fabrication/1327735-balancer-installer-tool.html

Winner.

Also, I wouldn't use heat on a damper, particularly not the typical OE bonded rubber type.  Heat is what kills those, so adding more during install seems like a bad idea to me.

[digitalsolo]

I'm not talking 450*, I'm talking 220* for about 35 minutes.   

If it can't take 220*, it's going to have a hard time on an engine. 

[smackhead999]

Yeah, I rented the kit from advance and it removed the pulley just fine, but the kit wouldnt fit the crank to pull it back on.
 
Not using any lube is what did me in.  I meant to, but got ahead of myself.  Like a dumbass.
 
I guess I will pull it off and start over, now that I have a drivetrain that I can lock in place

[AndreS]

for the install I used a 120mm bolt from McMaster, a couple thick washers, and some lube between them...  you could go with a 130mm bolt and add a bearing from one of those install kits between the washers....

[V8Mongrel]

I'm not talking 450*, I'm talking 220* for about 35 minutes.   

If it can't take 220*, it's going to have a hard time on an engine. 

True, I was thinking more about the people on LS1Tech who were saying "just hit it with a propane torch and it will slide right on."  Obviously, there is a right way and a wrong way to heat things up and (no offense to the OP) I tend to assume it will be done the wrong way when this is a thread asking what to do next, half-way into doing something the wrong way.

Absolutely always lube threads.  You should have a quart of straight, non-detergent 30w oil in your garage.  Rip-off the label, grab a Sharpie and write "THREAD LUBE" on the bottle.  That is unless you are baller enough to use the ARP lube.  I know that shit works, but damn are they proud of it.

[BeasTT]

Not using any lube is what did me in.

That's what she said

[smackhead999]

no offense to the OP

yeah...

Thats like grabbing my balls and calling "no homo."

Thanks for the gentle touch though. 

edit:

In my defense, I will add that:  I did heat the pulley before originally putting it on.  With an oven, not a torch.  Not really sure that I did it wrong, except my means for securing the assembly from rotating wasnt enough to support the 200 pounds of torque needed to pull it on. 

[digitalsolo]

That is unless you are baller enough to use the ARP lube.  I know that shit works, but damn are they proud of it.

LOL.   I'm not a baller, but I have probably have like 6-8 of those packets of moly lube that come with studs/bolts from ARP.   Maybe I just buy too much ARP shit. 

[smackhead999]

Does ARP suggest you use lube on all of their bolts/applications?  Flywheel, pressure plate, etc...

[V8Mongrel]

no offense to the OP

yeah...

Thats like grabbing my balls and calling "no homo."

Thanks for the gentle touch though. 

edit:

In my defense, I will add that:  I did heat the pulley before originally putting it on.  With an oven, not a torch.  Not really sure that I did it wrong, except my means for securing the assembly from rotating wasnt enough to support the 200 pounds of torque needed to pull it on.

You pulled it on with the bolt, not a proper installation tool.  I am not trying to bash you, but you asked, and using the bolt to pull on the damper is the wrong way.

To clarify, my statement was general, not personal.  It doesn't matter who you are, if you are stuck because you started a job the wrong way, I am going to assume that you will do other things the wrong way.  Obviously this isn't true of you, since you heat the part in the oven, not with a torch, which is why I said no offense to you.

Does ARP suggest you use lube on all of their bolts/applications?  Flywheel, pressure plate, etc...

You should get a copy of ARP's catalog.  It is amazing.  Always lube threads.  Particularly in the case of ARP units since they will not be made from the same metal as the part they are going into, unless you happen to have an Inconel, chromoly or other high strength alloy crankshaft.  Without a lubricant, different metals are more likely to gall.  Similar metals gall as well, but just not as badly.  Always lube.  Thread locker, which is called for sometimes, functions as a lubricant, albeit not a particularly good one.

That is unless you are baller enough to use the ARP lube.  I know that shit works, but damn are they proud of it.

LOL.   I'm not a baller, but I have probably have like 6-8 of those packets of moly lube that come with studs/bolts from ARP.   Maybe I just buy too much ARP shit. 

Yeah, I have a couple of those, but every time I use one, I go price a tub of the stuff and just cringe.