T56 in FD Removal Help Needed

[cymachine]

 Hi,

 The car I bought has a Hinson mount kit, and the transmission has been having some problems with a couple gears. Nothing that I couldn't wait to fix, but then noticed the rear main leaking. Figured I'd kill 2 birds with 1 stone, and took it to a reputable transmission shop locally. Just got off the phone with them, and the guy is saying it looks like the entire drive train needs to be dropped down to access it. Where he thought that during the install the engine and trans were installed as a single piece, and he can't see how to remove just the t56 alone. Unfortunately the limited amount of time I've been under the car I never noticed exactly how the transmission would be removed from the car..

 Does this sound right, or does anybody have any suggestions for easier removal of the transmission by itself? He said that the trans mount removal looks like they'll have to remove the bins/carpet/etc from inside the car.

 Any help is much appreciated to pass along to the shop!

[Mysta Joe]

Not sure about the Hinson kit, but with my Samberg I have removed the T56 only with the car on jackstands...

They can also just disconnect it from the bell housing, leave the bell housing on the engine.  If your going to do clutch while your in there then remove the bell housing after.

[cymachine]

Just called to see if I could come by to snap some photos and take a look, but it's already off the lift. He mentioned that the way the headers/exhaust were installed there's no way to access the header bolts as-is, and the way they're wrapped around the transmission will make it impossible to drop it w/o removing the headers. From what I understand they're Sanderson 1.75's.

[Cobranut]

Wow.  I have the Samburg kit, but considering the available space, header R&R was pretty straightforward, as long as you have a lift.
Also, dropping the transmission from the bellhousing is easier by far than trying to remove both at once.

I can't say about the crossmember.  Samberg uses nut plates under the carpet.  IIRC there is one bolt that holds the plate in place when the other bolts are removed.

[blacksi]

I've removed my tranny with the hinson kit with out pulling the motor.  I removed the intake manifold to make clearance to tilt the engine back a bit.  The top bolts of the tranny were the only things that were a bit hard from what I remember.

[Cobranut]

Forgot to mention the intake.  If you don't do that you'll most likely break the intake manifold.
Thanks Blacksi

[Skeltic]

ya if you take off the sensor at the fire wall (oil sensor?)disconnect the intake and jack the front that will buy some space, but you can fuck around with out the space and get it but it is tight. I have dropped the trans many time without but its very tight

[Cobranut]

ya if you take off the sensor at the fire wall (oil sensor?)disconnect the intake and jack the front that will buy some space, but you can fuck around with out the space and get it but it is tight. I have dropped the trans many time without but its very tight

I remote mounted my OP sensors with SS line, but even getting to the fitting is a bear with my intake installed.

[digitalsolo]

I've done around 30-40 transmission pulls (not kidding) in FCs and FDs and here's my method:

1.  Remove intake.
2.  Remove oil pressure sender (if it's mounted hard to the block).
3.  Depending on the engine mounts, loosen the cradle/mount bolts slightly.
4.  Drop exhaust (may need to drop headers, depends on setup).
5.  Remove shifter.
6.  Remove driveshaft.
7.  Put tranny jack under transmission.
8.  Disconnect clutch line.
9.  Disconnect transmission harness.
10.  Remove crossmember.
11.  Make a 3' long extension stack and remove the bolts between the T56 and the bellhousing (not bellhousing to block).
12.  Slide transmission back and drop it.
13.  Remove bellhousing if needed.

Installation is reverse of removal.   I can do a transmission start to finish in about 3 hours in one of these cars.   It's really not a bad job.

[kinger]

I've done around 30-40 transmission pulls (not kidding) in FCs and FDs and here's my method:

1.  Remove intake.
2.  Remove oil pressure sender (if it's mounted hard to the block).
3.  Depending on the engine mounts, loosen the cradle/mount bolts slightly.
4.  Drop exhaust (may need to drop headers, depends on setup).
5.  Remove shifter.
6.  Remove driveshaft.
7.  Put tranny jack under transmission.
8.  Disconnect clutch line.
9.  Disconnect transmission harness.
10.  Remove crossmember.
11.  Make a 3' long extension stack and remove the bolts between the T56 and the bellhousing (not bellhousing to block).
12.  Slide transmission back and drop it.
13.  Remove bellhousing if needed.

Installation is reverse of removal.   I can do a transmission start to finish in about 3 hours in one of these cars.   It's really not a bad job.

This is awesome as I prep for the replacement of my T56 with a Magnum. 
Is #1 required for a LS6 intake?  This is the first I heard of this I wasn't going to touch the engine or mounts or bellhousing. 
#4 required for JTR headers?  I was thinking of removing the drivers side only to I need to prep for both sides?
#11 is something that is definitely good to know!

[digitalsolo]

#1 - Yes, ALWAYS.   Easy to break the intake if you don't, not worth the risk, IMHO.
#4 - I -think- you can do it with the headers on with JTRs.  If not, you can at least just loosen the bolts and swing them a little.

[Cobranut]

I don't recall if the transmission would clear the headers.  I was pulling my bellhousing and clutch so I just yanked the headers at the beginning.
They're actually not that bad, if you have a lift at least.

[kinger]

Mine is full of AC lines on the passenger side which are hard to remove since the system is R12   No lift for me, life goals LOL

[Cobranut]

The passenger side is definitely more work, and yes, not having a lift would make it a lot more difficult.
Being able to stand under the car makes it a lot easier to work your hands up where you need to get.

[jwvand02]

I've done around 30-40 transmission pulls (not kidding) in FCs and FDs and here's my method:

1.  Remove intake.
2.  Remove oil pressure sender (if it's mounted hard to the block).
3.  Depending on the engine mounts, loosen the cradle/mount bolts slightly.
4.  Drop exhaust (may need to drop headers, depends on setup).
5.  Remove shifter.
6.  Remove driveshaft.
7.  Put tranny jack under transmission.
8.  Disconnect clutch line.
9.  Disconnect transmission harness.
10.  Remove crossmember.
11.  Make a 3' long extension stack and remove the bolts between the T56 and the bellhousing (not bellhousing to block).
12.  Slide transmission back and drop it.
13.  Remove bellhousing if needed.

Installation is reverse of removal.   I can do a transmission start to finish in about 3 hours in one of these cars.   It's really not a bad job.

I'm going to pull my transmission probably sometime in the next couple of days... really helpful. Thanks!