I know the tick one is f-body only, but to me it looks like a Tilton with an adapter on it.  Curious what bore size they're using.  Although I don't think that bore size is a problem since it worked fine for over a year before it went progressively to the shitter.

Quote from: Kevin Doe on 05 Jan, 2011 09:40

Is there any way to view the clutch while still in the car with a T56?  Can you look inside the starter hole and see anything, maybe even with a mirror?

 

So, do people actually do that, or are you just joking? 

I've put inspection holes and plugs in stuff that had multi disc clutches where checking the air gap could be considered "routine maintenance", but not like that.  Yeah, I was joking, just pull the trans and get it over with, whatever the problem is, you're going to have to do it anyway.

Yeah, I was just hoping I don't pull the trans, look at everything, have it all look ok, and be like, "wtf, I don't see shit.  I should have checked xyz before pulling this thing out."

Get the blue wrench out lol

Get the blue wrench out lol

 

(joke) me.

hey kevin check out the link below:

http://www.4g63turbo.com/tech/eclipse-clutch-adjustment.html

although it is not specific to T56's or aftermarket master cylinders, i found it quite helpful to understand what exactly is going on inside the master cylinder to fix the issues i was having. i quite honestly had no idea of the concepts there was a relief valve that when not adjusted properly can result in clutch "pump up". it's not a complete solution to your problem, but it might be helpful to visualize when adjusting your clutch pedal and stop.

Just get it faceplated

hey kevin check out the link below:

http://www.4g63turbo.com/tech/eclipse-clutch-adjustment.html

although it is not specific to T56's or aftermarket master cylinders, i found it quite helpful to understand what exactly is going on inside the master cylinder to fix the issues i was having. i quite honestly had no idea of the concepts there was a relief valve that when not adjusted properly can result in clutch "pump up". it's not a complete solution to your problem, but it might be helpful to visualize when adjusting your clutch pedal and stop.

Interesting article, after reading it I may have the clutch hydraulics adjusted such that I'm in "pump up mode" as the article calls it.  I have it adjusted such that I feel strong resistance right near the top of its stroke.  I took out the relief valve portion of the stroke, I'm afraid.  Not sure that doing so would cause the issue I'm having, but I will certainly give it a shot at readjusting.

The Wilwood compact master doesn't have that complexity.  The only issue you can have from that standpoint is if the piston isn't returning all the way and the main (pressure) seal is blocking the hole from the piston bore to the reservoir or is actually sitting past it at rest.  You should be able to BARELY rattle the pushrod between the pedal and the piston.  If not, back it off until you can, and make sure the pedal is returning all the way too.

The Wilwood compact master doesn't have that complexity.  The only issue you can have from that standpoint is if the piston isn't returning all the way and the main (pressure) seal is blocking the hole from the piston bore to the reservoir or is actually sitting past it at rest.  You should be able to BARELY rattle the pushrod between the pedal and the piston.  If not, back it off until you can, and make sure the pedal is returning all the way too.

Yes, you must make sure that there is a small about of free-play at the top to know that the plunger is fully retracting and relieving the pressure out of one of the two small holes that can be seen when looking down into the reservior.