March 29, 2025, 04:43:15 AM

Author Topic: FC oem rubber or poly or what for rear suspension etc?  (Read 1438 times)

Offline mxman

FC oem rubber or poly or what for rear suspension etc?
« on: July 12, 2010, 01:40:28 PM »
So, I just did DTSS, subframe and differential bushings in my fc...

I was going to put poly in but with the my mmr camber adjusters they state they will bind up..

There doesn't seem to be much play using the oem rubber bushings.. am I way off?

I notice there are only about 2 or 3 rubber bushings in the whole rear suspension...

1> Control arm pivot
2> Stock camber dogbones
3> subframe
4> diff
5> dtss
6> top bushing? (in the spindle hub assy)

So i have those all swapped out with metal or rubber, other than  the top bushing, and the rear control arm...

I just don't want my suspension going bonkers if I launch it or get on it pretty hard...
*just installed snubber too*

LQ4 soon to be around 400 whp motor with 4l60e
1987 Turbo 2

Mods:
Engine: 2004 Lq4 w/ Katech rodbolts, TSP Ported 799 heads 62cc chambers, mr gasket mls head gaskets .040 (10.5:1 or so?) Comp billet timing set, Comp lifters, Comp Pushrods, Comp xer273hr14 (@ .050 224/230 .581/.589 114lsa)
Exhaust: : Mac midlengths from 4th gen camaro chopped, dual 2.5 exhaust with "xpipe", 3" magnaflow ricer tip mufflers
Racing crap : Hurst line lock, N2MB WOTbox/Launch control, 26x10 hoosiers etc etc, SSBC brake bias valve
Drivetrain:  2002 fbody T56 "viperized", mcleod rst clutch, wilwood 7/8th MC,  pro 5.0 shifter, 3.5" driveshaft, 8.8 irs with 4340 axle shafts t2 outers  3.73s, pinion snubber
Suspension: Tein Coilovers  (springs are way too high rate) poly rear control arms, mmr camber blocks, solid camber bar, mmr subframe/diff mounts, Pinion snubber, no front swaybar

Old setup:
Yank 3600 billet cover
built 4l60e (similar to rpm stage 4)
t2 diff with solid front mount and pinion snubber

3 fingered willy

  • Guest
Re: FC oem rubber or poly or what for rear suspension etc?
« Reply #1 on: July 12, 2010, 08:29:21 PM »
I'm going to say POLY! Energy suspesion bushing kits are cheep and they work well! I'm a stock LS1/4L60E and I can pretty much spin the tires as long as I want to with NO wheel hop! It doesn't really matter what tire as well. I had all but no wheel hop with the T2 rear end and now with the 8.8 swap I have zero, nadda, not even an little bit of hop. Oh and I just put struts in the car 2 weeks ago, and now its even better! :D

Things that will help in stabalizing the rear end:

FC, running a T2 rear with the clutch type diff, "929" axles are better then the T2 axles. 929 axles have 30MM center bars rather then 27 MM like the T2. It eliminates axles wind up and allows for a more fluid transfer of power then the the T2 axle. If you can get rid of the wind up issue you will get much less wheel hop. Anything you can do to eliminate movement in the rear end is also a plus. Pinion snubber wether is rubber or welded will do alot as well. Adjustable links in the center section of the wishbone will allow you to set camber and square up the footprint of the tire. this is huge since most FC's dont have a factory adjustment for this!

I'm now running an 8.8 with the Tbird diff, 3:27 gears and DSS axles and I have NO wheel hop at all at any tire speed!

Just some food for thought! :D