Sticking T2 front brake calipers

[Track_FC]

I recently swapped the entire suspension/brakes from my Turbo II parts car and just started driving it after completing my L33 swap. I also swapped over the brake booster, prop valve, and master cylinder from the Turbo II. I've been having an issue that after driving the car for 10-15 minutes the front brakes start to stick and get hot. I thought it was the front slides so I greased them up but they still stick after driving for awhile. The seals look pretty bad which means the calipers will need a rebuilt soon, it's just weird that it's so intermittent.

I didn't put a check valve in from the intake manifold to the booster - could this be the problem? It just seems weird that after driving the car for awhile they start to stick but then when it's shut off for 5 minutes they go back to being normal. Any other ideas?

[digitalsolo]

Check valve - no.

You said slide pins...   are they single piston fronts?    Get some 4 pots and just replace those things.

[Track_FC]

They are 4 piston Turbo II brakes. I greased the corners that the brake pads slide on. I'm assuming those are the slides.

[digitalsolo]

Ooooooh, ok.

I'd yank the pistons and check them out for corrosion as well as the bores.   You may be able to clean them up, hone the bores and replace the seals and be good to go.

[Track_FC]

Cool. I figured that's what the problem was I just wanted to make sure that I wasn't overlooking something obvious. Would it almost be cheaper and quicker to just buy rebuilt ones?

[DDv8]

Verify the booster to master push rod has the proper space.  If it is to long it will slightly apply the brakes.

Here is the Mazda wayhttp://www.ls1fc.com/pdfs/s4manuals/11_BRAKING_SYSTEM.pdf  pg 15

DD

[Track_FC]

Any suggestions on where to buy remanufactured calipers?

[clocker]

Advance sells em for $45 apiece, plus core.

Chances are, your piston bores are fine (which is good because you have to split the caliper to hone them) and a rebuild kit would fix you right up.
That assumes the calipers are your problem and I tend to think that DDv8 nailed it and your pushrod length is wrong.
And get a check valve in the vacuum line, it's easy to do (any generic check valve will work) and it's what the system expects to see.

[Track_FC]

Thanks guys. Mattster and I took a look tonight and the rod was at the very end of it's adjustment. He adjusted it in and we were planning on going for a drive but I forgot my keys.  I'm hoping this is the problem.

Any suggestions on where to get the proper check valve?

[mattster03]

Thanks guys, we got it figured out.  Not much attention was paid to the amount of rod threaded into the brake pedal when the master cylinder was replaced... turns out it was barely threaded in.  Now that it's adjusted properly, the brake pressure is relieved properly and the fronts aren't "sticking" anymore.