There is a bunch of good info in the ronin instructions:

http://www.roninspeedworks.net/index.php?route=information/information&information_id=7

Worst case scenario you can also adjust pinion angle using a sub-frame adjustable camber link or by adjusting the spacing of the front mount...  it's not ideal, but it'll do in a pinch.

If you have delrin bushings in the rear control arms, take them out... that bushing twists through travel and will bind the arm if you have delrin in there.  In needs a spherical bearing.

take the rear sway bar off.

besides that, you might want to up the front spring to deal with the iron block, or at least add some shock adjustment up front.

A lot of new autocrossers handling issues come down to overdriving the car, especially with less than ideal tires.

also, the stagger will always push in tight corners, you're better off with a square setup for autocross.

also, more front camber is better.  I run -3.5* on my FC for autocross and tires are still wearing fine.

Quote from: eage8 on May 16, 2017, 10:30:58 PM

Don't take this the wrong way... but your hand position drives me crazy

There is a lot to be said about the car turning the same amount when your hands are in a certain place.  I think it makes things a lot easier and consistent, especially reacting to what the car is doing.  Watch any recent video of mine,  I made a pretty decent effort early on to fix my bad habits and keep my hands at 9 and 3.

What are you using for telemetry data?  Can you add OBDII data to it like throttle position?  or is it just a GPS enabled camera?

I'm jealous of people with OBDII... it's way easier to get ECU data into telemetry than what I had to do to get data into mine.  Still pondering on whether I want to add a brake pressure or steering angle input into my telemetry...

No offense taken at all.

2 things-

I just got the D shaped steering wheel, and not 10% sold on it yet. This was my first day with it, so I was more "handsy" than normal.

The other issue is I have a manual rack, and lose leverage on the steering wheel without moving my hand position. Because the rack is slower, I also have to move the wheel more. That said I'll keep it in mind and see if I can improve.

I do have ODB2, but my particular lap timer (AIM SOLO) does not integrate with the early GM OBDII interface. I really liked your latest video with the TPS overlayed. That would be valuable info.

What I do now is use a GoPro for video and use the AIM SOLO as my predictive lap timer/display in the car. I then use Race Render to overlay the GPS lap data with the video. The post production is a little more cumbersome than a GPS camera, but the in car timing display and presective lap times the AIM
SOLO provides is really helpful for experimenting with different lines.

Over the winter I added a racecapture mk3 box which is connected to my megasquirt ECU via CAN.

Mine is the more complicated version, but this one can plug into your older OBD2:
https://www.autosportlabs.com/product/racecapture/

it displays predictive lap data and stuff on your phone screen.

it is a lot of money just to get OBD2 data though.


I have a D shaped wheel on my corolla and don't really like it at all haha.  but I guess it is nice if you need a bit more leg room.

give static hand position a try though, if I can do it on my 15:1 rack on an autocross, I think you'll be ok on a 20:1 rack on a road. course... but that track does have some tight corners... but you can always make exceptions for those.  but yeah, I didn't consider the extra leverage part of the equation... I'll never get rid of my P/S   315 hoosiers demand it.

Thought I posted this here, but it looks like I forgot.

I took my diff out a while back and the top mount was getting dug into and the lower rubber mounts it came with got completely crushed.


so I added a nice thick washer on the top that was the same OD as the mount to prevent digging and also got a stock ford bottom mount (which you have to clearance on the front end:


a full season of auto-cross later it's still going strong and wheel hop is much better:

another thing you can try instead of a big hammer is to bolt some bar stock to the holes and try to twist the brace to lower the rear holes.

1 - I'm running my wiring very similar to yours, but I'm running my wire from the starter up the frame rail to the fuse block.  you probably don't have the header clearance to do this, but might be able to run it up the trans to the firewall and across the pinch weld or something.  *shrug*

2 - I'm running dedicated fused and relayed wires from my circuit breaker up the passenger side of the car for my dual spal fans.  I haven't had any problems with fuses.

I'm also running both my oil cooler fan and my surge tank fuel pump (walbro 416) off the same main lug on the fuse block that the starter connects to with inline fuses, also no problems

+1

I'm really interested to see what the data says.  do you have decent data with the cars current setup on any tracks that you plan to compare back to back?