Looks like GSXRated will be her new owner. 

Looking forward to hear what you have planned for this car Devin.  I just really want to see this car with a decent sized cam and some ported heads.  If you do, get some vids for me! 

If my situation were different I'd be going beast mode with this car. 

Racine, WI.

SOLD

I don't really want to sell this car, but I have changed jobs and need money to put down on another house.  I built this car myself.  I've been an ASE Master technician for years, and this car is not a hack job.  The car is in good cosmetic shape, I would put the paint at 8/10..  There are some dings and scuffs here and there which is to be expected for an original paint job almost 20 years old.  All black interior is in excellent shape, but the glove box handle did just break a couple weeks ago.  I have pics available in the imageshack album here. https://imageshack.com/user/HXMan/a/SuNF

Dependability wise the car has been excellent.   She has 91,500 miles on her now, and about 9 or 10k of that swapped.  This car has never left me stranded, and I have driven numerous 500+ mile road trips.(Well I did get stranded once when I blew up the original diff down the street from my house.)  As she sits now the engine made 368whp/370wtq with just longtubes, Samberg intake and stock tune. There are only a couple small issues.  One is due to where the Samberg intake mounts the LS7 maf, you get turbulence through the maf causing a part throttle hesistation.  I am told this can be tuned out.  I'm just running the car speed density right now and it drives excellent.  The other issue is with the clutch.  The LS7 clutch self adjuster sticks, causing a low pedal at times.  After driving and getting the rpms up a few times the pedal returns to normal.  This is not due to air in the system, and I have already replaced both the master and slave twice. I actually have a brand new Monster Stage 2 clutch with lightweight flywheel in the box ready to install, I just don't have the time for it.  I can include this with the car for extra $.

No A/C, no P/S.  Rack was professionally converted to manual by Maval.

Other negatives to the car I guess would be the rear heim toe and trailing arms are noisy over bumps.  I do have a set of OEM arms with new bushings ready to install.  Also the aftermarket shocks and springs are old, so I would expect to negotiate pricing with this in mind.  Also the OEM temp gauge and Oil pressure gauges aren't hooked up.  I'm running an autometer electronic oil pressure gauge, and a PLX multigauge for the Engine temp.  The PLX gauge can actually read all sensor outputs from the ECM, and view and erase fault codes.

So here is the car.



Modifications:(I have not listed all the parts since many are everyday swap parts.)

Engine:
07 LS2 that I bought with 10k miles on it from a wrecked Trailblazer SS.  Same engine that came in the 06-07 Vette.  When I had the oil pan off you could tell the engine is in excellent shape.  Cylinder walls cross hatch looked perfect, and I mean NO burned oil residue, which is something you pretty much allways see in an engine with a decent amount of miles on it.
Vette LS2 intake manifold, injectors, and fuel rails(off a 07 vette with 6k miles)
Vette LS2 water pump(purchased brand new)
Vette LS2 throttle body(got off never ran crate engine)
G8 GT Alternator and bracket(purchesed brand new)
Street and Performance P/S eliminator pulley and bracket
GM Performance Parts LS2 crate engine wire harness
J&R 1 3/4 inch ceramic coated longtube headers
Custom 3" full stainless exhaust
Samberg Engine Cradle black powdercoated
Samberg V2 Radiator and intake setup(replaced my older V1 this spring)
Aeromotive FPR
Taylor Spark Plug Wires
01 Camaro Oil Pan


Drivetrain:
Fbody T56 rebuilt with a GTO mainshaft with the triple cone syncros, and steel shift forks
Pro 5.0 Shifter
Remote Bleeder
LS7 Clutch
LS2 Flywheel
GM OEM slave
Wilwood 7/8 master cylinder
Hinson Master Cylinder adapter
Driveshaftshop aluminum driveshaft
Auto 3.9 diff from an automatic RX7
Samberg Transmission mount powdercoated black and energy suspension poly bushing
Samberg Rear Diff Mount powdercoated black


Suspension
Fikse FM10 17" wheels that I just rebuilt and had professionally painted.  I have a rebuild thread here. http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=16664.0  Michelin Pilot Sport tires, 235 front, 255 rear.  The rear can go wider on those wheels, but thats what I have on there now.  Tire tread depth on the front wheels are excellent, the rear, could use replacing soon, almost to wear bars. 
Samberg Bump steer correction tie rods
Aftermarket shocks and ebiach springs
Heim joint rear toe arms
Heim joint rear trailing arms


Misc
NRG Hood Struts
Kenwood head unit
Alpine rear speakers
Autometer electronic oil pressure gauge
Dakota Digital Speed signal converter
PLX multi gauge

I am in the selling mood, so the price is of course negotiable.  +$500 to include the Monster stage 2 w/lighweight flywheel.   If shipping is needed the buyer can arrange, but I will do what I can to help. 

SOLD

That mustang driver can shift! 

Nice work and a great step by step!

I've been considering doing a rebuild on wheels and this will definitely help if I go that route.

Thanks.  I hoped this would be helpful to people that are members of this forum that want to rebuild their wheels.

So I've had a set of Fikse FM10's on my RX7 for some time.  The wheels previous owner didn't take the best care of the wheels and the inner barrels were pretty pitted, and the centers and lips showed signs of neglect.  So instead of selling the wheels as is and buying new ones I decided to rebuild them myself.

I didn't take many pictures of the breakdown, but here is one.  Once you remove all the bolts cut a slice with a razor blade all around the wheel through the silicone sealant, and then carefully pry the barrel and lip apart with a large screw driver.  In the picture you can see how nasty the inner barrels were.  The sealant on the floor was between the barrel and lip, I stripped most of it off with the razor blade.


Before pic of the centers.  They look to be in better condition in the picture here then they really were.


After broke them down I took the parts to a local sandblasting shop.  For $80 I got all the parts blasted....but they weren't ready for paint yet.  In this pic you can see the lip was pretty rough after the sand blast.  I sanded the lips down with 150 then 220, and then 350 grit.  I also did some sanding on the barrels.

Lip before sanding.


Lip after sanding.


It was a lot of sanding!    Ha, it really wasn't that bad.


I did some reading about painting 3 piece wheels, and how you really shouldn't have paint on the wheel mating surfaces.  I decided to have the wheels painted in stages.

First I had the lips and centers painted, with the mating surfaces of the parts masked off.  Needless to say I took a few trips to the paint shop.  You can't see in the pic, but the mating surface on the back of the centers is not painted.


Lips painted gloss black.


Nice parts chillin in my mud room.


I wanted the bolts nice clean so I let them soak in CLR, and scrubbed all 80 of them with a brush!  Came out nice.



Next I had to assemble the wheels.  Fikse wheel bolts need to be torqued to 14ft-lbs.  I didn't have a torque wrench that went that low accurately, so I bought a Snap-On 0-250 in-lbs torque wrench.

Torqued all the wheels in a star pattern, marking each bolt as I went to not miss any.


After the wheels are assembled, they all have to be sealed.  Don't apply sealant to the parts before assembly, you only do it afterwards. I went with GE supreme silicone.  It is good for aluminum parts, and worked great for me.  I also went with a clear sealant so I would be able to see any bubbles in the joint.


To apply the silicone first tape off around the joint.  The tape will make your sealant job come out much cleaner.

Then apply a thin bead around the entire wheel.  You don't need to much, but enough to completely cover the seam.  Run a wet finger over the sealant and smooth it around the whole joint.  Make sure there are NO bubbles in the sealant. 

Before the sealant cures, remove the tape.  Now you will have a real nice seam.


Ready for final paint!


Not much more to say now.  I had the paint finished up.  Matte black on the centers, center caps, and barrels.

Guess a finished pic of the wheels on the car would be nice. 

My Samberg stays at a steady 195 when cruising, then when stopped on a hot day creeps to 210 where the fan engages and then goes back down to 200.

Stock thermostat.

I guess I don't see the point of keeping the temp rock solid steady.  Even an OEM car is going to see variations when you are looking at the actual temp on a scanner and not the buffered temp gauge on the dash.