Well after a bunch of little issues to solve we have a functioning car now    So something helpfull for the hive, 2010 to 2015 tr6060's have a fully splined input shaft vs the 2016 to 2024 tr6060's, those have 1.125 less spline area. Just enough to not engage the second disc on a twin disc 





So off to the dyno!



and some of the main information everyone is here for 



Now a few things here on the dyno graph, almost didn't post this yet as it will be confusing for some but I'm excited that this is doing exactly what i wanted - this isn't the final numbers as I'm nowhere near done yet. The soft rev limit set to 7500 rpm (hard cut is bad for valve train longevity so I don't use it) so it starts to nose over about 7100 rpm, which is why it looks like that. The reason I set the rev limit to this is because for st4 classing its power to weight and since that means this engine will live a majority of its life at about 48-50% throttle I'm not turning it any higher than I need to help with longevity. This will make the max power I can have from 3900k rpm and up. I'll post the final graph here in a few weeks when I get back to the dyno. For max power I don't know where it will stop, my guess is about 7800 or so and it will nose over naturally, ill shut it down about 8500 if that's the case. The little 339 ci engine that could     

So, you're probably wondering what happened as to why it's not done, well.... Throttle body died, started out as just a redundancy error and then turned into it sticking and causing it to idle at like 2700 rpm plus causing faults and disconnecting still. So, after fighting with that for like 2hrs I said f this, took my ball and went home New OE throttle body on the way! 

https://youtu.be/tVQNDYqmnE8?si=2HaR3tyMV9Qo7AXO full power pull
https://youtu.be/ARi4vJXEuEY?si=o3Nid-4szhQk4A8P st4 power pull

I really want some current pictures  I went back like 60 pages and nothing 

Answered my own questions.  I forgot this was not an RX7 haha

Haha I want to know what the question was 

After buying and autocrossing a new GR86 this year, my thought has always been that if the car had another 200 horsepower and some torque (LS) it may be one of the best cars ever created. It is certainly the best affordable sports car on the market today. This may be that perfect car.

I'm hoping this is exactly what I end up with! I love my sons gr86, they feel identical.

Looks good! With your current serpentine setup, you will need to crank down on the manual tensioner to about 30-ftlbs of tension, otherwise the belt will start slipping on the alternator on the shift- especially if you plan to rev over 7k rpm. That belt routing setup doesn't get much belt wrap on the alternator pulley. This is what I have experienced.

That's good to know! I will add that extra bit of torque to it as this for sure is shifting much, much higher than that!

That thing looks clinical!

Thanks Blake! I'm trying!

Immaculate work! Well done

I remember when these cars first came out, there was a LA cop who did an LS3 swap immediately after purchasing it. He had nothing but good things to say about the cars behavior with the new power plant.

Thank you! Yeah, I read about a cop with a white one, probably the same guy! Being I have never driven the stock one in anger time will tell! but I hope it's all I'm after.

Thanks for the compliments guys! Trying to make a showy racecar haha 

Best of both worlds! Truck is awesome as of course the FC! I really like that screen. 

Ok I need to know, how are you plumbing your cooling system fill point into the heater ports like that?  It is just a common reservoir?  The way mine is now is just a single line from the top of the radiator end tank to the bottom of the surge tank, and the steam port empties into the surge tank, and there's an overflow out to a puke tank.

Using the heater line ports for fill/recirc. One side of the can I built is pressurized with the radiator cap on it, steam tubes from the heads all connect to central fitting under the intake manifold then go to that side of the tank (I didn't have the -4 AN nipple welded on for the steam lines yet in that pic) The other half of the tank is the expansion tank/overflow. The tank is positioned at the highest point in the system. So far, it's worked well on several race cars!  -12 and -10 lines btw

Quote from: AKINA FC on January 15, 2024, 01:41:01 PM

Thanks guys. I'll make a second set out of some scrap and see what we think. I have also been playing with how to put LED's in them for brake lights like the V8 supercars have in the wing stands.

Slowly chipping away and ordering more materials. I got the diff and trans coolers mounted in final position. The hard lines for the fuel and oil are done along with the fire suppression being plumbed now, pull cables included. Sadly, I didn't take completed picks of the fire system, I'll do that this week. I also finished the cooling lines in the engine bay.

I was just staring at the first picture for quite a while wondering how you managed to stuff a multi-link rear into your FC 

Anything's possible!     with enough money and time haha

Little outside profile shot while I'm working on other vehicles.    Im pretty pleased with the overall look so far but I think re-designing the wing mounts (for the twenty millionth time ) to have an arc that matches the A pillars would look better, little more swoopy I would say. Something I'll do at a later date when I have more time but for now its keep stuffing parts in it!