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Drag Racing / Re: 26X11.5-15 ?
« on: June 06, 2012, 07:30:11 PM »
Good call Andre, they are MT ET Streets and my car is an FC. Thanks for the info.
March 18, 2025, 07:34:35 AM
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Drag Racing / 26X11.5-15 ?
« on: June 05, 2012, 10:11:12 PM »
Anyone running 26x11.5-15, I just picked up a pair and not sure what wheel to use (stock 15", Jeep, Mustang) I was looking for 10.5 but couldn't pass up the deal I got on the 11.5's. I'm hoping to get away with just "rolling" the fender.
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Pics and Videos / Quick test ride
« on: November 13, 2011, 10:21:06 PM »
Took the RX for a quick test drive....still need to dial in my shift points.
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Build Threads / Re: LT1 383 4l60e FC TII
« on: November 13, 2011, 06:53:13 PM »
A video of the RX.......need to work on my shift points and some tuning
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The Lounge / Re: The Official XBOX/PS3 Gamertag Thread
« on: October 30, 2011, 12:21:28 PM »
Xbox and PS3, been playing MW2 on xbox lately, getting ready for MW3, but play mostly COD based games.
Dirkrc51
Dirkrc51
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Drivetrain / Flexplate Problem
« on: October 04, 2011, 10:36:56 PM »
I spent the last couple weeks working hard on finishing my LT1 383 4l60e install. I have ran the engine several times with NO starter noise or starting issues, bet I started it at least 50 times. This past Sunday I finished up the shift linkage, exhaust and a few other minior things. I even took it out for a quick test ride around the block. Ran great, no problems, started a couple more times and then parked in shop. Everything was looking good, so I thought.
Went out this morning before work, reached in, turnded the key and..........I can't even type the words of the sound it made. After the noise stoped, the started just spun. I ended up pulling the access cover of to inspect the flexplate and starter. The flexplate has about eight inches of teeth missing (found them in the cover). WTF I can turn the engine over by hand past the broken teeth and it starts right up.
Has anyone ever seen this before or any suggestion on what might have happend. I need to replace the flexplate but want to make a habit out of it.
Went out this morning before work, reached in, turnded the key and..........I can't even type the words of the sound it made. After the noise stoped, the started just spun. I ended up pulling the access cover of to inspect the flexplate and starter. The flexplate has about eight inches of teeth missing (found them in the cover). WTF I can turn the engine over by hand past the broken teeth and it starts right up.
Has anyone ever seen this before or any suggestion on what might have happend. I need to replace the flexplate but want to make a habit out of it.
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General Tech / Re: Poorboy Longtubes
« on: September 08, 2011, 10:53:43 PM »
I spent alot of time deciding what headers to run. In the end, this is what I went with. I'm not completly finished but you should get the idea. Jegs flanges #555-31802 and weld-up kit #555-31891. The driver side went pretty smooth with only a few minor adjustments, however the passanger side needed some heavy mods. I'm not 100% happy with the passanger side, but it will work for now.
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+Products/555/31802/10002/-1
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+Products/555/31891/10002/-1
Driver side almost done, just need add the collector and fiinish up the welds
Passanger side
Test fit, need to reroute a few things
I haven't decided if I want to get them coated or just do the header paint and bake.
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+Products/555/31802/10002/-1
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+Products/555/31891/10002/-1
Driver side almost done, just need add the collector and fiinish up the welds
Passanger side
Test fit, need to reroute a few things
I haven't decided if I want to get them coated or just do the header paint and bake.
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Parts for Sale / Re: WTB Shifter Assemble For Automatic Trans FC
« on: August 27, 2011, 08:56:38 AM »
Found one......Thanks
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Parts for Sale / WTB Shifter Assemble For Automatic Trans FC
« on: August 25, 2011, 09:57:42 PM »
I need a stock mazda automatic transmission shifter assemble for a FC.
Thanks
Thanks
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Build Threads / LT1 383 4l60e FC TII
« on: August 09, 2011, 10:12:59 PM »
It's time to share some of my build. About 7 years ago a did carbed SBC T350 conversion in a rough FC. I loved the car but sold it at about 95% complete. I told myself I would do another someday. As luck would have it, I came accross a 88 Turbo II in good condition. The previous owner pull the engine thinking that it was bad (turbo problems). I got the car as a roller with the engine and trans along for the ride. I paid $800 for the car and sold the engine pieces and misc parts for around $500. In the end I ended up having about $300 in a solid TII.
My next step was deciding what engine/trans combo to use. My first choice was a LS with a T56, like alot of guys are using. I love the idea of GREAT reliable power. Then I though about doing something different, like a Toyota 4.7 V8. I know it can be done, but at what cost (money and time). In the end I ended up going with a LT1 and 4l60e for two reasons. First, parts are cheap and fairly abundant. Second, I already did a LT1 conversion in a 1997 Jeep Wrangler about 3 years ago. So I know the engine and already have alot of parts.
Now that I know which way I'm going, It's on to the build.
Engine
95 camaro block
Eagle "SIR" rods
Used 3.75 forged crank (didn't even need turned)
Probe SRS Flat top pistons
Comp 503 cam & GM performance parts springs
Stage 1 porting to OEM heads
Electric water pump
BBK throttle body
Start of my custom harness. Wish I would have bought a stand alone harness
Engine and trans in, most of the wiring complete.
Cooling system mostly done (need to repair heater core).
Summit radiator with a Taraus 3.8 fan.
Things that need to be done.
Exhaust- thinking of building my own headers
Shifter- looking for an OEM auto shifter. let me know if anyone has one for sale
Drive shaft
Clean-up wiring
Roll Bar
Reinstall interior- plan on using OEM gauges with modified speedo
Now that I have the thread started, I'll try to keep it more up to date.
My next step was deciding what engine/trans combo to use. My first choice was a LS with a T56, like alot of guys are using. I love the idea of GREAT reliable power. Then I though about doing something different, like a Toyota 4.7 V8. I know it can be done, but at what cost (money and time). In the end I ended up going with a LT1 and 4l60e for two reasons. First, parts are cheap and fairly abundant. Second, I already did a LT1 conversion in a 1997 Jeep Wrangler about 3 years ago. So I know the engine and already have alot of parts.
Now that I know which way I'm going, It's on to the build.
Engine
95 camaro block
Eagle "SIR" rods
Used 3.75 forged crank (didn't even need turned)
Probe SRS Flat top pistons
Comp 503 cam & GM performance parts springs
Stage 1 porting to OEM heads
Electric water pump
BBK throttle body
Start of my custom harness. Wish I would have bought a stand alone harness
Engine and trans in, most of the wiring complete.
Cooling system mostly done (need to repair heater core).
Summit radiator with a Taraus 3.8 fan.
Things that need to be done.
Exhaust- thinking of building my own headers
Shifter- looking for an OEM auto shifter. let me know if anyone has one for sale
Drive shaft
Clean-up wiring
Roll Bar
Reinstall interior- plan on using OEM gauges with modified speedo
Now that I have the thread started, I'll try to keep it more up to date.
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Parts for Sale / Re: Forged Mahle SBC pistons
« on: August 09, 2011, 08:29:59 PM »
Price drop, $250 shipped
Good overall conditions comes with 8 pistons, 8 sets of rings and 8 wrist pins, but no clips.
very high quailty piston set.
possible trades
Summit sells for $720.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MLE-SBC125030D06/
Good overall conditions comes with 8 pistons, 8 sets of rings and 8 wrist pins, but no clips.
very high quailty piston set.
possible trades
Summit sells for $720.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MLE-SBC125030D06/
14
Suspension/Brakes/Wheels / OEM electric adjustable suspension
« on: August 06, 2011, 04:32:44 PM »
I picked up a few used parts and the local salvage yard and they have a FC (GXL or GTU) with the OEM electric adjustable suspenion. Does anyone use them? Is it an upgrade or downgrade from the stock TII setup? I would hate to see the struts (car) get crushed if they are worth saving.
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General Tech / Re: lt1 running on six cylinders...
« on: June 26, 2011, 11:10:14 PM »
Things I would do.....
Compression test on the cylinders that are not firing. It would hurt to check them all. that way you have something to compare. Generaly speaking you need about 100psi for the cylinder to run. Low compression can be caused by a valve not fully closing (bend, carbon or tight valve). Higher than normal compression be a sign of carbon build (causes pre-ignition) or a worn cam lobe.
Opti-spark is the next place I would look, check to make sure your getting spark. If your not sure about the opti, I would replace it.
Check for 12dc volts at the injector, make sure you check the cylinders that aren't firing. If the injector has voltage, check the ground side of each injector at the ECU. Make sure it is in the correct pin location AND has continuity from the ECU connector to the correct injector. If you think its a fuel issue, check fuel pressure and make sure the fuel is fresh. You can also try swaping injectors to see if the problem moves with the injectors.
Good luck
Compression test on the cylinders that are not firing. It would hurt to check them all. that way you have something to compare. Generaly speaking you need about 100psi for the cylinder to run. Low compression can be caused by a valve not fully closing (bend, carbon or tight valve). Higher than normal compression be a sign of carbon build (causes pre-ignition) or a worn cam lobe.
Opti-spark is the next place I would look, check to make sure your getting spark. If your not sure about the opti, I would replace it.
Check for 12dc volts at the injector, make sure you check the cylinders that aren't firing. If the injector has voltage, check the ground side of each injector at the ECU. Make sure it is in the correct pin location AND has continuity from the ECU connector to the correct injector. If you think its a fuel issue, check fuel pressure and make sure the fuel is fresh. You can also try swaping injectors to see if the problem moves with the injectors.
Good luck
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