Update. Finally got the sucker on the road.

The Camaro flywheel won't work, the OEM clutch won't fit the flywheel, the disk/hub won't fit the center of the flywheel. I found a cluch that would fit, but I wanted to stick as close to OE as possible. And, like nfw1050, it places that flywheel for the short crank engine.

NFW 1050 fits, but the starter will not spin the engine. It's designed for short crank engines, so the ring gear won't align right. Couldn't find anything else to use, other than $350 flywheels, so my original one was checked and resurfaced for $40.

Also rebuilt the transmission. Replaced gear synchro and ended up replacing all the main bearings. Found some bad teeth on the synchro sliders as well, so the transmission shop that did the Flywheel found me some good used parts. The input shaft bearing was also collapsed. The plastic cage was melted and the input shaft had started turning blue.



Also, this is a long crank engine.  4.8 V8 if anyone was curious. No thanks greatest picture, but if anyone knows GM rear flange, they can see that's it's longer.

Hello,

Guys I'm having a bit of an ordeal with my clutch. Throw out bearing locked up 300 feet from home. I managed to break I free by turning it off and starting it up, in gear, but she's singing her last song. The pilot bearing has been noisy for 30k miles, but the TO decided to go out suddenly. As far as I know 186k miles, original equipment. I'm hoping somebody could help me out, since there is a ton of mix//match engine combinations.

Nobody sells flywheels for my 1999 Silverado 1500 4.8L 5speed nv3500 daily driver. At least OE/OEM, that's not the dealer, and I don't have enough lubricant to deal with a stealership. I've got enough to cover parts, but don't really want to go past 1k. I'll do all the labor. All hydraulics, rear main, and clutch. Flywheel purchase is because I want it to be a 6 hour r/r, don't want to risk having it stuck on my friends lift/shop hes loaning me.

I understand that the 99-00 models use a longer crank snout. 4/10 longer than the 01+ and the flexplates/flywheels reflect that with dished or spaced products.

Is there a combination OEM or aftermarket that could support the long nose crank of these engines? Clutch/flywheel?

Can I just use a generic GM LSX 168 tooth FW and the truck clutch?

Would I be able to purchase the newer style flywheel and install it onto my engine without any adverse effects? The clutch hardware/hydraulics seems identical, just the flywheel aspect of it.

FWIW, the truck just has a KNN intake and straight pipes. I don't plan on making huge power gains, other than long tubes and a mild cam. Pretty much, just to make noise. Stock hardware will probably fare pretty well, seeing that it does 99% street/non towing driving.

I've checked GM trucks, 4x4, S10, and other forums, but all I fucking see is people's opinions on what a POS the nv3500 is and no solutions. I'm hoping to get some clarity from here.

If anyone has any suggestions and could provide a confident answer, I'd greatly appreciate it. I just lost my car, and asking for rides to work at 2am isn't exactly going to happen.

Thanks in advance

Once you're done with all the work, the only difference between your car and a show car would be the quality of the paint job and completion of the interior. The attention to detail IS there. Aside from that, it's original vs restomod.

Why t56? I don't think the lnf bolts to the t56 without a custom bell housing. The newer 4cyl ecotec from the cadillac ats has the tr6060/3160 behind it, but the first rwd lnf setup came with an aisin transmission. It's supposed to be the newer version of Toyotas w58. IIRC.

The easiest option IMO would be to get a drop out from a 2006-2010 Pontiac solstice gxp or Saturn sky redline. It's already bolted together, then you just need to worry about fitting it in the repu.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I didn't think the LNF/t56 was a bolt on ordeal.

Unless you are going for big power, I think the aisin unit should hold for the most part.

Do you have a good battery?

Are your connections tight and proper?

Is your fuse good? You will need one capable of supplying the starter and vehicle components with current since it is the only power cable.

Where is your ground?

You should have provided a ground (negative) to the block of the engine. The engine, transmission and body should all have their own path to the battery negative terminal or should all be grounded to each other.  This eliminates stray currents and false/poor grounds. If everything else checks out, you may not have a proper route to the negative post of the battery.


If you are relying on the engine block to "ground" the engine, remember that there are rubber isolators in the mounts. What is actually "grounding" the system is any metal to metal connection between the engine components and the body.  You will need to provide a direct connection to the battery or "bond" the engine, transmission, body and battery together.

My real question is, what's holding back Ford guys from using GM hydraulic clutch release bearings? The actual bearing is the same, and so is the part number for the 94+. The input shaft is the same diameter, I know lengths and spline counts are different. And it has a slightly different input shaft bearing retainer.

Why can't I use a GM bearing retainer and throw on the GM slave on the Ford t5? They "should" bolt on, in theory, and all I'll have to do is properly space the hydraulic release bearing to actuate the clutch.

What's holding anyone back from doing it? I see all these hydraulic conversions for Ford costing upwards of $2-300.

Chevy used the t5 on the Camaro v6 until 2003, there just isn't as much information on those years because nobody wants a v6 t5. Boohoo!

Anyway, many of the Chevy internal slave t5 kits won't fit a Ford because of the collar shaft on the bearing retainers. (From what I know) Why can't i just use the Chevy t5 retainer and slip on the Chevy slave hardware? Essentially they are the same part. Even share the same part numbers (Chevy 346724a vs Ford 346724g)  They just use different casting materials and Ford has a larger collar shaft diameter. Probably because of that monster of a clutch cable linkage. Other than that, input shaft diameters were generally yhe same, with the exception of spline counts and lengths.

Chevy even used the Ford t5 on models that needed top loaders like the astrovan which used an AMC Bell housing and the Ford nwc t5. The t5 was made with so much interchangeability, I just don't see why it hasn't been put together. Or maybe these guys selling a Ford conversion kit are selling you a Chevy bearing retainer and their proprietary hydraulic bearing, and keeping the rest a secret, while ordering parts from GM...

I know the initial project of finding out if it works would be costly, but given the failure rate of some aftermarket components, I'd prefer to have an OEM part I can just pick up at an Auto supply store. I'm also in the process of figuring out my clutch situation on my swap. If you look at Chevy's TOB line up, they use the same throw out bearing on Silverados, s10, and Camaros so I doubt I'd have same availability issues. At least from the t5 to nv3500, which the s10 was offered with both of those transmissions.

Fortunately for me, I need to install a clutch on my Silverado, so I'll have the hydraulic throw out bearing lying around. I guess I can order a Camaro t5 bearing cover to see if it will line up properly, then try it on my 5.0/t5 project. I'll probably have to shim/space it for proper clearance, but after that, its just a run of the mill OEM, easily available part.

If it doesnt fit the Camaro t5 bearing retainer, I'll just lose the cost of attaining one, and have to figure out an external slave cylinder sitting next to the header :/

Aside from me convincing myself it's going to work, does anyone have any experience they want to chime in?

The motor mounts are out of a early 70s mercury with a 5.0.fox body mounts won't work. I'll try and find the part number on the box gtannys sent me.