I'd be cautious of anything endorsed by Rob Dahm. In spite of the buckets of money spent on his builds, he is sloppy and ignores safety. It is going to bite him one day.

I third this about Rob. He seems like a well meaning, okay guy. His content can be entertaining, but he clearly takes short cuts and makes questionable decisions. There's arguably more to learn from his mistakes than anything. He's also a youtuber, which should be an automatic strike on one's credibility.

MPbdy is right, though. It will change the point where the IC occurs. It does less to solve the issue than the Ronin bumpsteer correction kit, as that allows you to adjust the angle of tie rod and thus the intersection of the IC and the virtual line created by that tie rod end.

Changing the effective height of the upright particularly by a small amount should only minimally change the camber curve if at all IIRC. Camber gain/loss is most affected by the difference in length between the control arms. Which isn't to say that upright height plays no role, or chassis side mount separation no role in camber change, they do. It is just the case that the adjustments have to be much larger to cause the same amount of change you would get by changing the ratio between the control arms. That's my memory of things from playing with suspension geometry calculators, anyway.

Brief aside: regarding lowering, FD drop spindles would be really cool.

Finally, none of this is intended to repudiate the idea of correcting the role center on a lowered car. That makes sense, IMO and would be the reason to get this kit. Provided you went low enough to merit it.

I have one with a KAAZ 1.5 way in it I was planning on selling anyway. You interested? I can take some picks tomorrow.

The caliper itself is off the shelf - Wilwood's MC4 Mechanical Caliper https://wilwood.com/Calipers/CaliperProd?itemno=120-15484-RD

The bracket is custom designed by TCE, and accommodates both the FNSLR4 main caliper as well as the MC4 caliper (photo attached).  In talking with TCE during the development, the FD spindle presented quite a challenge, as there simply isn't much room to work with.  Also, they were clear with me, that while the MC4 should work perfectly fine as a parking brake, under no circumstances am I to use it as a handbrake (i.e. no drifting).

Admittedly, I have not yet connected the MC4 caliper as the stock FD parking brake cable will not work with it.  I anticipate using Wilwood's own parking brake cable kit, which looks fairly strightforward to install.  This will be a project for this summer.  https://wilwood.com/Hardware/HardwareProd?itemno=330-9371

TCE rocks. I have his front kit on my SRT4, it's excellent. Doug Wind's time attack winning car also used his stuff. I couldn't recommend them more. His pricing has always seemed to be extremely competitive as well. https://www.tceperformanceproducts.com/ for those interested. Also, thanks for sharing your setup and the calculator. I'll make use of it.

Quote from: Turbotronic on June 07, 2021, 09:25:46 PM

^Fair enough.  I unfortunately (for my wallet) caved and bought a E46 M3 MK60 unit. Good Lord, these things got out of control expensive. It seems pretty much impossible to get one under $1000, particularly in the range that 3DM Motorsports recommends in there FAQ and unit ID guide. I saw one for $550, but it was from an '01. I have no idea whether, or not it needs the precharge pump. Also, maybe someone will have better luck with sourcing a unit from 3DM themselves. I was told they had none on hand with no visibility on when that could, or would change. If the AP1 units stay cheap enough, maybe I'll get one and do a back to back test. No promises, though.

Couldn't you have bought a regular E46 abs module and paid 3DM to reprogram it for you?

^As far as I know, no, I could not have. Both 3DM's FAQ and a number of the BMW forums seem to think that re-flashing a standard E46 unit from say, a 330CI, is not possible. It could be the case that it can be re-flashed and that would be good information to put out there, if true. Even if it's not re-flashable, once this never ending build gets to a phase where I can do performance testing, I will test it. In regard to that, I'd also like to see what happens if I try to run a non-M unit in standalone configuration as well. It'd be interesting to see how big the difference is between the two. I'd be willing to bet that for 95% of people considering this mod would be more than satisfied with a standard non-M unit. That comparison happening is contingent on regular E46 units staying under $200, though.

An 01 would need the precharge. Pretty sure you can use an E46 and have it reprogrammed. Don't know if it has to be an ME though.

Yeah, that is why I passed on it. Mine came out of an '03 according to the ad. The part number on the computer portion of the module checks out so I'm not worried. It also came with all the sensors and came with all the plugs with enough a pigtail to make my own harness.

The AP1 unit is a full 4channel system. That alone is worth the upgrade. It also accepts the FD's VR style ABS sensors natively. It does not require any external inputs. That came in the AP2. It is just an ABS system. No yaw, steering wheel or accel sensors needed. I cannot speak to how it compares with the CSL firmware units. If the firmware could easily be tailored to the car it would be a no brainer.

^Fair enough.  I unfortunately (for my wallet) caved and bought a E46 M3 MK60 unit. Good Lord, these things got out of control expensive. It seems pretty much impossible to get one under $1000, particularly in the range that 3DM Motorsports recommends in there FAQ and unit ID guide. I saw one for $550, but it was from an '01. I have no idea whether, or not it needs the precharge pump. Also, maybe someone will have better luck with sourcing a unit from 3DM themselves. I was told they had none on hand with no visibility on when that could, or would change. If the AP1 units stay cheap enough, maybe I'll get one and do a back to back test. No promises, though.

Not sure the difference between the two units, but given that the bmw unit is looking for input from the yaw sensor, pressure sensors and the wheel speed sensors.... I think it will out perform the Honda unit, especially with the csl program.

I finished all my brake lines and wiring, going to bleed the system and power it up soon.  I managed to make all the lines, except for the rear lines one piece from abs unit to their location.  It wasn’t easy or perfect but everything you see is nice, the rest that’s hidden behind interior pieces are acceptable.... not perfect. 


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Cool. I look forward to seeing how you like it. You'll get to try yours before me. I've got a ways to go before my FD is back together.

https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-under-hood-22/upgrading-02-04-abs-module-1191671/

I appreciate the link. It was informative.

Quote from: Cobranut on April 26, 2021, 06:09:42 AM

Will this have provisions for the A/C condenser that is used with the Samberg kits?

Yes. We do need to tuck it tighter to the radiator, but the same basic bungs and such will be there.  Samberg used an 11 x 20 parallel flow condenser.  Vertical clearance is likely to be the challenge but I'm going to see if we can fit an 11 x 21 to gain just a smidge of surface area.

Quote from: wickedrx7 on April 26, 2021, 08:56:31 AM

Not sure what motor you are using to test fit but remember that they LS3 water pump has the upper connection on the drivers side of the pulley, unlike the LS1 that is on the passenger side. 

Thanks for the reminder.  For the hoses on the test car we're going to build a custom set with silicon couplers and the Gates heat shrink hose clamps (aka Powergrip).  We might need to have folks specify their pumps if we can't find hoses that we know will work for both.

If you guys want to borrow my LS3 E-Rod's water pump for test fitting I can ship it down the coast. I'm in Norcal, so it shouldn't take long to get there. Just message me if interested.

I'm running a bog standard LS3 DBW(unflipped) w/ fbody accessories and am very interested. I don't really have any advice, or design commentary. I just want to buy it.

Just placed my order!

Same. Finally, I can get this project done.