ok ill chech those im hoping its something that simple id hate to have to replace my lever switch

Replacing the column switch is dead simple, only two screws hold it on the center support web.
If cost was the concern fear not, those switches are relatively inexpensive new and dirt cheap in junkyards.

FYI, The FD switchgear is made by Niles and is used (with minor trim differences) by a whole lot of Japanese brands.
I was using the switchgear and wiper motor from a Mazda 6 on my project and found that the switches from a Lexus ES300 were "deluxe" versions of the same thing (we gained FOG lights on the light stalk and adjustable INT on the wiper side) and were a direct replacement (with some minor wiring changes).

I do notice that pretty much any seat I put in there feels very high compared to the stock seats.

Probably because the seats you've tried were designed with fripperies like "padding" and "comfort", unlike the originals which were designed to "fit".

I used Honda CRX seats in my 240Z and absolutely loved them, wish I could find another good set.
Miata seats look like a reasonable fit too, I don't have any FD seats to look at.

Local scrap yard has a 1999 Legacy "outback" wagon with a 2.2L motor.

According to my research it should have the dual diaphragm booster and 1-1/16 MC if it has 4 wheel ABS.
I'll try and get my hands on it.

So, what happened?

Safety feature is what I'd figured, thanks for the input.

The op said he installed a new motor recently.

I've run all my fans (Taurus, Volvo and currently, 18" Lincoln) through a Volvo fan relay and a 30A fuse.
Never blown the fuse, fans work great in both speeds.

I keep hearing about the massive starting current draw of these fans and wonder why it's not tripping my (theoretically) undersized fuse.

I could even see 1% or so.   But an almost 10% loss just makes no sense.   That's like putting in subframe connectors and losing rigidity.

I understand your skepticism (and share it, to an extent) but it seems the ball is in the doubter's court- either find fault in the methodology or replicate the experiment with different results.

Keep in mind also that the Z chassis is not directly comparable to the much later FC/FD units.
First of all there's no b-pillar (which is why nearly every Z you see will have a crack at the roof> rear quarter joint) and the chassis lacks the deeply drawn structure that modern metallurgy and forming allows.
It looks like a modern unibody but lacks the benefit of structural analysis/development available today.

*Bear with me, the following is an analogy...*
When radials began to supplant bias ply tires, British sports car owners started popping their 48 spoke Dunlop wire wheels...the extra grip and braking force just overwhelmed them.
It's possible that seam welding eliminated enough body slop to concentrate the forces in a smaller, already vulnerable area, which now deflects more easily than before.

Just a guess, based on the assumption that the data as presented is correct.

I'm only a shadetree engineer but your plan seems needlessly risky.
I can see such a cantilevered structure holding the engine in place but wonder about the effects of rocking couple/torque reaction as it actually runs.
Why not just make a bolt in version of the McKinney setup?