Bringing this thread back as my fuel pump wiring issue is fixed with the racetronix bulkhead connector installed by the shop the car was at, but my fuel gauge reading is not working. Now because I never really drove the car before bringing it to this shop for the fuel pump issue , I don’t know if this was a existing issue or if it started after the new bulkhead connector was installed.

I am trying to trouble shoot this and could use some help, I have read threads about corroding ground post and it all seems to be ok (blue and black wire).

 I did notice an existing Mazda connector beside fuel top hat no longer in use, is it possible this has to be connected or grounded?

 The fuel warning light works but the needle is always below E.

Any suggestions?

See photos, thanks

So my junkyard explorer 3.55 rear diff is leaking and before I bring this to a shop I wanted to get some input on the best solution.

Can this diff get re-built or is there an aftermarket diff that would be better to invest in?

Car is going into the shop in November to have a few things repaired, should this go to a transmission shop for rebuild it is this something any shop can repair?

The car has no drivability issues or noise, only leaking fluid from the diff, thank you in advance!

OK I am getting to the bottom of this random no start issue.

I think the battery and alternator are fine because after a few tries for turning the key and just hearing a click, the car starts up fine even sitting for a few days, I think the issue is in the stock wiring, see links below:

https://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=23885.0

https://grandmighty.github.io/grandmighty/2016/03/starter-booster-relay/

So I bypassed by clutch switch, and alarm system hoping this would help but it did not.

My next step is to build this relay to help supply constant voltage to starter solenoid, has anyone done this? Im assuming everyone with a swapped rx7 will have these issues.


So I ordered a hella 40amp relay with 5 pin harness, i followed everything on this grand mighty write up and wire 87 that connects to terminal S on the starter.

I was surprised this to be a small gauge wire, is this only passing voltage signal to the solenoid? and all the voltage is running through the large wire on terminal B? I know 87a is a spare and its a large gauge wire, please confirm if anyone has done this that was my only concern before I install, thanks.

Position 86 to Ground ring terminal on starter bolt
Position 30 to Terminal B on starter 12V
Position 85 gets spliced into the OEM black / red mazda wire that used to go to terminal S (this now acts as the signal wire)
Position 87 is the one I have in question, this wires into terminal B on starter solenoid and I was surprised this was with the smaller gauge wire.

Hey guys,

So I have been working through issues with my car and thanks to the forum I fixed my fuel pump wiring, got my real main seal issue repaired. I thought I was in the clear, went for a good 40 mile drive, turned the car off for 7 hours, went to start it and barley turned over, battery was low.

I do not think there is a draw anywhere, for some reason I suspect the alternator so I did some testing and want to see if these numbers are low. Engine is ls3 crate with 1,500 miles on it but sat for 3-4 year, new napa battery.

Car off: 12.5V
Car running: 14.6V
Full load (fans, radio, blower) 13.95V

My mechanic modified my header a bit, the vibration when shifting is better, but these headers are literally mm away if not touching the subframe!

f-body oil pan is also mm away if not touching the mounting kit, are these clarences normal and in line with anyone else running this setup?

Having the V3 swap part kits and newer ronin headers I thought I wouldn't have any issues with these parts. Unless I'm just paranoid with clearance, and the vibration when shifting is somewhere else on the exhaust / car.

What fuel pump / wiring?

update:

everything installed and running perfect, thanks for all the reply's and hoping this can help anyone wiring up a new fuel pump.