NoRotors.com - RX7 Engine Swap Forum
Technical Information => Build Threads => Topic started by: bikedad on May 07, 2010, 10:30:24 PM
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My story:
I purchased the car already built back in November 2008.
1986 FC from a member on the other forum "Old Skool Fool"
It needed quite a bit of work to really make it road worthy. I started with just getting it running correctly and somewhat reliably.
That involved some rewiring, carb replacement, drive shaft balancing, interior work, suspension component replacements and the list goes on.
With the assistance and guidance of Ray and Jorden(Gadzooks) I was able to make it to SNS09 (sort of)
Road trips are an exciting adventure sometimes. :o
I drove the car all summer while learning replacing and repairing various parts. Most parts acquired through members in this forum.
Well, after the last car show I attended with it I pulled it into the garage and decided to redo most of what was done.
Engine:
I'm using the original rotating assembly but replaced Heads, Cam, Carb and Intake
-1979 SBC 350 bored .30 over to 355
-Vortec Iron heads. Pocket ported, polished, SS 2.02 intake valves 1.60 exhaust valves and seats, Comp cams dual springs with Comp Cams roller rockers, screw in studs
-Edelbrock RPM Air Gap for Vortec intake
-Edelbrock Thunder Series 650 Carb
-Comp Cams Solid lifters
-Comp Cams Cam CS XS290S-10
Intake Lift= .540 Exhuast Lift=.558
Duration @ .015 Intake=290 Exhaust=298
Duration @ .050 Intake=252 Exhaust=260
LSA=110.0
-March Performance Serpentine Pulley system for SBC High Flow Short Water Pump
-ProForm Die Cast Aluminum Valve Covers for Vortec Center Bolt heads
-Skip White Billet Alternator mount for short water pump
-FluiDampr Street Series damper
Trans:
-T5 World Class (T5 14 spline 1" shaft) Edit: 1/9/2011 It is a WC after all
-Zoom conversion clutch/pressure plate assy.
-Custom DS by machineservice.com right here in Waukesha
-Pro-5.0 T5 shifter
I was originally just going to replace the top end but decided to go full bore into this.
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I received the fully built heads from Kilpatrick Engines and Transmissions and started to get it together
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Had a free night to start putting the motor in early December . My space heater warmed the garage to 40 deg F.
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Towards the end of December I finally got a chance to start hooking things up. (I lead a busy life)
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I realized my old long water pump was going to be a problem with the new radiator setup I wanted to put in so I decided to go with the short High Flow and had to find the correct billet parts for the serpentine system I wanted.
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Finally got it all wired, connected, tightened, retrofitted, fabricated, etc....
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Here it is running:
RX7 First Start after Rebuild 20JAN10 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1uL1Dcms1mw#)
Suspension:
-S5 Control Arms with Energy Suspension bushings
-Eibach springs
-KYB shocks
-Manual steering rack conversion from PS
I purchased the lower S5 control arms from a member on the other forum as well as the manual steering rack. I had a PS rack but not hooked up. I'm strong enough to drive it but after having drove Ray's car I decided I wanted to put in a manual rack. The nice thing about my car is the steering wheel is smaller than a typical manual steering car. It drives very easy now.
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Diff:
-S4 TII clutch pack LSD with TII shafts
-Welded diff mount by Ray
-Pinion snubber
With the engine as it is I don't think the NA diff is going to hold up.
Things were going OK on the removal process until I got to the DTSS bushings. They've been in for 23 years so they had become one with the cradle. It took a 1/2" drive breaker bar with a 3 foot aluminum pipe extension to bust them loose even after soaking with PB Blaster for 2 days. I couldn't even get the bolts out of the sleeves they were so rusted. (I hope Fastenal has the bolts to replace them)
The rotors had seized to the hubs so I had to use a hand sledge to break them loose after soaking with PB Blaster. (I think I might buy stock in the stuff:laugh:) While busting them loose I separated the wheel bearing from the race. :eek4: Oh well I guess I'll have to replace wheel bearings now. I hope I won't have to do this process again for sometime. I felt like I'd been lifting weights for 2 days. :laugh:
Well, got the new bearings pressed in as well as the DTSS Eliminators. Cleaned the carriers with some heavy duty degreaser. They turned out pretty nice.
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The last time the NA diff was replaced Jordan Jerabek (Gadzooks) gave me a hand. (actually did most of the work) It took about 3 hours to remove the old and put in the replacement.
This time doing it myself it's taking a lot more time. Pretty much because I'm wire brushing, degreasing and painting everything (to a point)
I will recommend if doing something like this to make sure you have a descent impact wrench. My air powered was too cheap and doesn't work well. I bought one from a local farm supply store that works great. It was $25. It's a corded one but doesn't seem to lose power on the really hard stuff.
Also multiple hydraulic jacks are a necessity if you don't have a lift.
PB Blaster is your friend.
All things considered this is not a very hard process in itself but due to everything being 24 years old is what adds to the complications.
Another member on this site has helped me with this car as well. Ray Platek knows a lot about these different differentials. He did a process on my pinion mount called boxing. Pretty much means he welded it solid. That should help with pinion movement on hard launches. He also milled and drilled my differential pinion flange to be able to use my NA driveshaft flange. If I ever have to go back to the NA diff it's just a matter of swapping the diff and not all the supporting parts like drive shaft etc.
I have a pinion snubber to install as well. It will prevent the front of the pinion from moving which leads to excessive wheel hop. I purchased it on line from Autozone for I think $10.
Dorman "Help" product "Control Arm Bumper" #31052
I know this works because he did the same process with his car and he has over 30,000 miles on his build with 1/4 mile times in the 11's. (He doesn't trailer his car and it's been across the US a few times)
Pics:
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Trusty Rusty
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My S4 TII replacement (the good one) with Delrin mounts
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Boxed Pinion and Pinion Flange milled and redrilled by Ray
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Cleaned and repainted
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Old parts going to storage
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I'll say this, I don't need to do any weight lifting from doing this. My abs were getting tight (LOL) Even with the jacks in place there still a lot of grunt work when you do this by yourself.
Installed the pinion snubber.
I found this indentation just above the pinion from underneath the car. Looked like it might have been stamped for a snubber from the factory.:dunno:
Drilled through and found where it came through the floor board between the rear bins. I put the snubber in and it wasn't long enough:mad:. I realized there was a subfloor right where it came through. Took the Dremel and cut a notch to bolt it.
I wanted some extra beef where the snubber mounted because the metal is thin and might fatigue fast so I put a very large washer between the snubber and floor board.
Bolted it in place with a nylock nut.
Once that was in place I proceeded to bolt the TII Diff in place. I raised everything into place and doing so it preloaded the snubber.
So, with the boxed pinion mount, snubber and Delrin diff pads I think it should be pretty tight. I think there might be more transference of noise and suspension activity but I expected that from reading what others have done.
Between Bins
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Dremel cut out
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Snubber
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Indentation just above pinion
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Large washer on snubber and Nylock nut
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Bolted inside
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Preload
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Waiting for the next step
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Finished replacing the TII diff.
Installed the Hub Carriers. Had to smooth the pocket where the old DTSS's used to sit with a Dremel. When removing the old ones the pocket where the sleeve sits got a little buggered up. A very small lip occurred which kept the carrier bolts from lining up. Wasn't a big deal but if I hadn't looked from underneath I would have thought the DTSS Eliminators didn't fit.
Once the carriers were in place then it was pretty easy going getting the TII shafts bolted in place. I didn't have someone to help for torquing the shaft bolts and the axle nuts. Clamped a soft jaw vise grip to the rotor and the hub carrier kept it from turning. Worked great.
All the nuts and bolts were wire brushed and either anti seized or I used PB Blaster to coat them. I read the instructions on the can. I didn't know it was used to prevent dissimilar metal from binding also. (Who reads labels?)
Bolted the drive shaft in place and dropped it off the stands. Now I have to wait for a non rainy day to take it out for a test drive.
I have sway bar end links on order but they won't be hear for about another week. Those should take 5 minutes to replace. I already busted them loose and re-tightened for easy removal later.
Hub Carrier showing DTSS Eliminator
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Anti Seize to prevent the rotor from rust welding
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Everything all buttoned up and my heavy duty bubble wrap to keep warm on the cold floor (Really works)
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Aww Crap! I forgot to wire brush and paint the hard lines. (I'll do that when the end links come in)
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I would rather have the aluminum showing but couldn't get all the "Hugger Orange" paint off.
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Edit: 10-22-2010
Shortly after having finished the rebuild I replaced the radiator with a larger Griffin 26x21 aluminum racing radiator from Summit.
I installed a temp sensor controlled 2 speed Taurus fan (from a local junkyard $40) and a Moroso intake manifold filler neck. (which is mounted higher than the top of the radiator to get air out of the system)
The original 21"x19" Aluminum radiator with a 16" SPAL just couldn't keep up.
Before I upgraded the cooling system everytime I would take the car for a drive I was always concerned about getting into a situation where the car might overheat. Example: stuck in traffic, driving behind a vehicle blocking air flow into the radiator on the highway. (yes it was affected by driving behind cars) etc. Just wasn't pleasant.
It always was hovering at the 220 deg F mark.
After replacing everything I've driven it for 200 miles straight and it's maintained between 180 - 195 Deg F constantly. (180 deg sensor kicks on low speed and then steps up to high speed at 195 deg)
3 Beuler 60 amp relays with a 50 amp fuse for low speed and 75 amp fuse for high speed. (I barely see any fluctuation when the fans turn on with my 105 amp alternator)
I bought the fan control electronics from here....http://www.hollisterroad.com/proddetail.asp?prod=MarkVIII (http://www.hollisterroad.com/proddetail.asp?prod=MarkVIII)
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Moroso Intake manifold filler neck.
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Here's a little exhaust video:
RX7 Rebuild Exhaust.wmv (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iF2Zr9fd1e8#)
Welding the Pinion Brace
Due to the extra torque of the motor the stock pinion mount/brace on the cradle just isn't strong enough to handle the job
So, Ray and I welded a dynamic pinion brace to the cradle. This reduces wheel hop and keeps the tires planted on launch.
There's just enough movement to reduce any major driveline noise.
This modification reduced my 60ft time. I no longer worry about slamming the pinion into the floorboard any longer (Even with the snubber)
(Here's the actual thread. http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=3659.0 (http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=3659.0) )
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07APR11
Installed the S5 tail lights from Antirotor. They really add to the look of the car.
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02DEC11 Just a couple of video updates of the car with the fresh 383 Stroker motor.
Here's the reason for the season in this thread: http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=6304.0 (http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=6304.0)
On the dyno:
RX7 Dyno 31AUG11 LMT.avi (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ofxxDEUJ2Zk#)
At GLD with Ray behind the wheel:
Great Lakes Dragway 18OCT11 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t0gSFF3O8ic#ws)
I'll be posting more here in the near future. :drive:
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My story:
I purchased the car already built back in November 2008.
1986 FC from a member on this forum "Old Skool Fool"
You bought your car from a member on this forum before it was even created? That's amazing, are you some kind of psychic?
Just kidding, looks great... although I would hate to be working in a garage that was heated to 40 degrees. I think mine was at 50 some degrees in the winter and I had to bring a heater out and still it was too cold for me. So I don't even want to know how cold it was if you heated it to 40.
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My story:
I purchased the car already built back in November 2008.
1986 FC from a member on this forum "Old Skool Fool"
You bought your car from a member on this forum before it was even created? That's amazing, are you some kind of psychic?
Just kidding, looks great... although I would hate to be working in a garage that was heated to 40 degrees. I think mine was at 50 some degrees in the winter and I had to bring a heater out and still it was too cold for me. So I don't even want to know how cold it was if you heated it to 40.
AHH! I had a problem with the posting and forgot to re-edit. :P I meant that other forum. ( "Those who shall not be named" LOL) (Just kidding, I don't have a problem over there)
BTW, outside was around 0 deg F at the time :o Up here 40 is warm :)
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Glad to see you got your build thread over here!
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Glad to see you got your build thread over here!
Thanks,
Yea. Pretty much just rebuilt the thread over here. I host my own pictures so it wasn't too terrible. I try to keep copies of the text with the links already in place.
I pretty much follow this process for my Craigslist postings. Very low level HTML.
I have to edit some of it but the gist is still there. ;)
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Great thread !
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looking good!
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MAN what a beautiful motor! Car sounds great too!
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Nice build, your small block looks alot like mine haha very similar setups good stuff
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I realize this is an older thread but for future reference...
3 Beuler 60 amp relays with a 50 amp fuse for low speed and 75 amp fuse for high speed.
Ford uses a 30A fuse to feed both speeds on the Taurus fan.
That's what I used when I first installed the fan and haven't changed it even when I "upgraded" to the bigger 18" Lincoln fan.
I've now installed four different efan setups in different cars using a 30A fuse and never blown one yet.
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I've said this before and I'll say it again. It has to do with the wear on the motor.
I replaced mine and went from melting 40 amp relays to working fine with 30 amp fuses.
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Great work, it's very nice.
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Thanks for the great comments everyone.
It's a fun, low budget project car.
I learn more and more each time I take it apart and put it together.
Don
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This is awesome. It is so clean and well put together.
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What clutch slave setup did you use?
Is that a Grannys trans mount? Looks like yours is in the straight up bellhousing position and I was planning on using the cocked fbody bell. Just trying to figure out if I am going to be forced to use a straight up bellhousing by granny's mounts.
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What clutch slave setup did you use?
Is that a Grannys trans mount? Looks like yours is in the straight up bellhousing position and I was planning on using the cocked fbody bell. Just trying to figure out if I am going to be forced to use a straight up bellhousing by granny's mounts.
I'm using the stock FC clutch slave pushing the fork. Slave is mounted to the bell housing with very Heavy angle iron (no flex)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Misc_Pictures/Dir_2/medium_3041.JPG) (http://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=3041)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Misc_Pictures/Dir_2/medium_3042.JPG) (http://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=3042)
Trans mount is Grannys and my bell housing is an older style GM#3858403. My T5 is from a 91 Camaro. I believe if you used the fbody bell then you will have to do some additional cutting for the shifter. As my shifter sits right now it's straight up in center of the hole but farther forward as I had to use the front bolt holes on the subframe because of distributer. I had to cut a small part of the console surround and had a custom shift boot made by a vendor here on the forum. (Indyparts)
My shifter is the billet Pro-5.0.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Misc_Pictures/Dir_2/medium_2939.JPG) (http://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=2939)
Old picture and has been modified but still similar:
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Misc_Pictures/Dir_1/medium_1728.JPG) (http://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=1728)
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Clean man, really like it!
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he's using the Granny's mounts and slave setup with a straight up bellhousing(I will personally recommend http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LAK-77-150/ (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LAK-77-150/) as it is much stronger than the Al ones, it's brand new with no play so alignment will be better, and if a clutch explodes, it's quarter inch hydroformed steel, so it might save your feet!)
I've heard of people using the angled bellhousings too, I think the T56 style trans mount works, I don't know how the shifter lines up though
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I'm pretty sure I'm using the angled bellhousing, as my shifter is no where near being straight up and down.
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The good news is I've been gathering parts for years, so I have both the grannys t5 mount and the t56 brace. I also have both the tilted bellhousing and a "621" straight up bell. So I guess what I really need to know is which combinatiom makes the most room for the headman jeep headers?
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straight up will give a little extra room since the exhaust runs under the slave, the shifter location is the biggest difference though
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I installed my S5 tail lights that I got from Antirotor. One of the easiest upgrades I've done. :D
Wow! They really make a big difference.
(Also doesn't hurt that they were in such great condition they almost look new)
Crappy cell phone pic.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Misc_Pictures/Dir_2/medium_3045.jpg) (http://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=3045)
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Looks great!
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the S5 tail light upgrade is a must.
my S4 lights had started to show there age, I agree WOW .
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I looked all over and can't find a picture showing your hood!
I am putting a 400 smallblock in an S4 turbo 2 and making it a track bitch. It'll have an edelbrock airgap manifold and most likely the Holley ez-efi setup on top. The efi will get rid of the issue of the fuel sloshing around in the floats in the turns.
Are you fitting under a stock turbo 2 hood? I figured I'd be adding a small cowl bulge on mine.
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I looked all over and can't find a picture showing your hood!
I am putting a 400 smallblock in an S4 turbo 2 and making it a track bitch. It'll have an edelbrock airgap manifold and most likely the Holley ez-efi setup on top. The efi will get rid of the issue of the fuel sloshing around in the floats in the turns.
Are you fitting under a stock turbo 2 hood? I figured I'd be adding a small cowl bulge on mine.
I guess I better get a picture in my Rebuild thread. LOL
I'm using an ABS CobraJet style hood scoop with a 2.5" height. I believe I purchased it from Jegs.
I cut off about 4.5" from the back of it.
The pictures show an Edelbrock cleaner but I now have a round 9" K&N 2.75" high filter.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Misc_Pictures/Dir_1/medium_555.JPG) (http://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=555)
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That is a pretty smart scoop. It is reminiscent of the turbo 2 hood.
Good to hear about the K&N. I was planning on running something very similar if not the same.
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Nice build, I think I am going to make that front diff modification tomorrow, see if it helps with my wheelhop issues.
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Nice build, I think I am going to make that front diff modification tomorrow, see if it helps with my wheelhop issues.
I have an extra set of bars already pre-drilled.
You can have them for the cost of shipping if you want.
Ray cut an extra pair when he made them.
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Nice build, I think I am going to make that front diff modification tomorrow, see if it helps with my wheelhop issues.
I have an extra set of bars already pre-drilled.
You can have them for the cost of shipping if you want.
Ray cut an extra pair when he made them.
Gee Don, keep me in mind if you are just giving away Ray's handiwork. If ilovemybike doesn't want it, let me know. I have a feeling that modification will be needed on my car too.
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Nice build, I think I am going to make that front diff modification tomorrow, see if it helps with my wheelhop issues.
I have an extra set of bars already pre-drilled.
You can have them for the cost of shipping if you want.
Ray cut an extra pair when he made them.
Gee Don, keep me in mind if you are just giving away Ray's handiwork. If ilovemybike doesn't want it, let me know. I have a feeling that modification will be needed on my car too.
Hey Rick,
For some reason I thought you already did your diff brace.
If ILoveMyBike doesn't take them then they're yours.
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Nice build, I think I am going to make that front diff modification tomorrow, see if it helps with my wheelhop issues.
I have an extra set of bars already pre-drilled.
You can have them for the cost of shipping if you want.
Ray cut an extra pair when he made them.
Gee Don, keep me in mind if you are just giving away Ray's handiwork. If ilovemybike doesn't want it, let me know. I have a feeling that modification will be needed on my car too.
Hey Rick,
For some reason I thought you already did your diff brace.
If ILoveMyBike doesn't take them then they're yours.
I ended up welding something up this morning, thanks for the offer though. It was rainy today so I don't know if it fixed it, but it is great to drive around regardless. :bacon:
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I finally got me a new Roxy hauler. No more 14ft landscape skid loader trailer with a parachute for a load ramp.
3.5 ton, 18ft tilt Johnson Trailer with electric brakes. I also mounted a 3700lb electric Warn winch on the front.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Misc_Pictures/Dir_2/medium_4362.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4362)
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Suh-weeeeeeeet! Congrats, that's awesome.
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I finally got me a new Roxy hauler. No more 14ft landscape skid loader trailer with a parachute for a load ramp.
3.5 ton, 18ft tilt Johnson Trailer with electric brakes. I also mounted a 3700lb electric Warn winch on the front.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Misc_Pictures/Dir_2/medium_4362.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4362)
Looking good Don. Made for the task.
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Nice Johnson. :yay:
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Nice Johnson. :yay:
LOL! Yeah, I just tilt my Johnson up and put Roxy on it.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I777 using Tapatalk
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I need one of those........lucky!
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Hey.. if your still in the beer buying mood we should meet up along the Mississippi for a cruise on 35 some time :D
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Hey.. if your still in the beer buying mood we should meet up along the Mississippi for a cruise on 35 some time :D
I might be up for that this Summer.
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Hey.. if your still in the beer buying mood we should meet up along the Mississippi for a cruise on 35 some time :D
I might be up for that this Summer.
Definitely! I'll try to find an open weekend and let ya know!
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Hey.. if your still in the beer buying mood we should meet up along the Mississippi for a cruise on 35 some time :D
I might be up for that this Summer.
Definitely! I'll try to find an open weekend and let ya know!
Maybe I'll be done by then... God I hope so.
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Hey.. if your still in the beer buying mood we should meet up along the Mississippi for a cruise on 35 some time :D
I might be up for that this Summer.
Definitely! I'll try to find an open weekend and let ya know!
Well get done and we will have a northern state lil SNS dealer bopper thingy....
Maybe I'll be done by then... God I hope so.
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Theres enough of us around here, thats for sure.
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sounds like a damn good idea to me!
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La Crosse Street Drags........once owned by yours truly.
Bring your junk, get spanked, and head home. Big fun.
Grille out at my Camper and drink beer, boat on the River.
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La Crosse Street Drags........once owned by yours truly.
Bring your junk, get spanked, and head home. Big fun.
Grille out at my Camper and drink beer, boat on the River.
Tell Pete you need to work on his FD.
We'll have a Midwest SNS!!
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I've had some people ask me how my stock RX7 clutch slave is mounted and used with my 91 V6 WC T-5.
Here are the pictures of how it's mounted. The car was swapped in 2006 and this has been the configuration since then.
The bellhousing is a stock Gen1 Part# 3858403
The clutch fork is also a stock Gen 1 Part#? that has been cut down to clear the firewall tunnel.
It handles my Centerforce Dual Friction clutch with no problems.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Misc_Pictures/Dir_2/medium_3041.JPG) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=3041)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Misc_Pictures/Dir_2/medium_3042.JPG) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=3042)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Misc_Pictures/Dir_2/medium_4423.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4423)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Misc_Pictures/Dir_2/medium_4424.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4424)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Misc_Pictures/Dir_2/medium_4425.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4425)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Misc_Pictures/Dir_2/medium_4426.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4426)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Misc_Pictures/Dir_2/medium_4427.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4427)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Misc_Pictures/Dir_2/medium_4428.JPG) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4428)
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Slight update:
A few months ago Ebush was getting rid of FC GXL parts.
I wanted to buy his brand new slotted and drilled rotors. (Still in boxes) There were some other parts he had that I was interested in but would not have shipped well.
I decided to road trip to Cincinnati with my brother to pick up all his parts he was getting rid of. He said if no-one picked up these parts they were (getting scrapped)
I replaced the diff a couple of weeks ago. Today I had some time to deal with the other parts I've been wanting to replace.
Flash Lenses that looked almost new. (Mine were broken and extremely hazy)
[smg id=4463]
Front Brembo rotors with EBC Green Stuff pads (EBC are pretty noisy)
[smg id=4462]
Rear rotors (forgot what manufacture)
[smg id=4466]
Leather GXL seats compared to my SE Sport seats (I cleaned them with Lexol leather cleaner and Blue Magic conditioner and they look almost new)
These are so much nicer than my SE Sport seats. Lumbar support, nice bolster support, tilt, and tilting headrests.
[smg id=4464]
The center console is replaced with the matching one from Ebush but this picture is before I replaced it
[smg id=4465]
BTW, I have some decent but worn SE Sport seats for sale cheap if anyone is interested.
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Nice, Roxy is looking good. :)
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I'll have to stop down and see if your seats are in any better shape than mine
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We can't wait for a little MN WI get together... Do we want to meet near the Twin Cities and cruise down to LaCrosse area? or just go straight to Lacrosse and bum around there... County road 108 is a must and it is 25 min from Lacrosse.. what do you think?
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We can't wait for a little MN WI get together... Do we want to meet near the Twin Cities and cruise down to LaCrosse area? or just go straight to Lacrosse and bum around there... County road 108 is a must and it is 25 min from Lacrosse.. what do you think?
Isn't there a Car Craft Summer Nationals that occurs in St Paul? When is that?
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We can't wait for a little MN WI get together... Do we want to meet near the Twin Cities and cruise down to LaCrosse area? or just go straight to Lacrosse and bum around there... County road 108 is a must and it is 25 min from Lacrosse.. what do you think?
Isn't there a Car Craft Summer Nationals that occurs in St Paul? When is that?
July 20th-22nd
http://www.mngmp.org/forum/showthread.php?9673-So-Car-Craft-2012 (http://www.mngmp.org/forum/showthread.php?9673-So-Car-Craft-2012)
http://www.carcraft.com/2012/summer_nationals/index.html (http://www.carcraft.com/2012/summer_nationals/index.html)
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I plan on going to that with some friends and family and would be great if some Norotors peeps showed up!.. I'm thinkin we do an early Saturday meet in Prescot WI and gather at the No Name Saloon. Cruise to LaCrosse on the old river road 35. Get food in LaCrosse somewhere and hit up hwy 108. Then we can do whatever.. part ways or hotel er whatever... I don't think there will be enough day to enjoy the river road if we do CarCraft unlees we do all that Sunday.. thoughts?
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isnt that rear rotor on backwards???
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isnt that rear rotor on backwards???
Hmmm, they did have L and R labels on them. But now that you mention it I think it is on backwards. :scratch:
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Don put them on that way so he could do some Jim Rockford 180s :)
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Don put them on that way so he could do some Jim Rockford 180s :)
You're showing your age man. :D
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For the youngsters here.....
Rockford Car Chase: Compilation (http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=Pruex3pgX1g#)
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Looking good Don! As of now I officially quit trying to keep up with the Teifke's.
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What do you think about meeting in LaCrosse early Sat and cruising up to carcraft via river road 35... That sounds fun :)
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What do you think about meeting in LaCrosse early Sat and cruising up to carcraft via river road 35... That sounds fun :)
That sounds like it could be fun.
I'll contact Cryptic and see if Brew City Muscle might be involved as well. Maybe make a huge caravan.
I don't know if you guys would want to come to the Dells for "Wisconsin Dells Automotion" May 20 and 21?
There's a huge contingency going from Milwaukee/Waukesha. (probably 40 cars or more) They're estimating a couple thousand cars showing up for the event this year.
There's going to be a huge burnout contest at the Edge-O-Dells motel Saturday (Think Aussie burnout contests, happens every year)
Here's a link to the event:
http://www.wisdells.com/wisconsin-dells-attraction/automotion.cfm (http://www.wisdells.com/wisconsin-dells-attraction/automotion.cfm)
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What do you think about meeting in LaCrosse early Sat and cruising up to carcraft via river road 35... That sounds fun :)
That sounds like it could be fun.
I'll contact Cryptic and see if Brew City Muscle might be involved as well. Maybe make a huge caravan.
I don't know if you guys would want to come to the Dells for "Wisconsin Dells Automotion" May 20 and 21?
There's a huge contingency going from Milwaukee/Waukesha. (probably 40 cars or more) They're estimating a couple thousand cars showing up for the event this year.
There's going to be a huge burnout contest at the Edge-O-Dells motel Saturday (Think Aussie burnout contests, happens every year)
Here's a link to the event:
http://www.wisdells.com/wisconsin-dells-attraction/automotion.cfm (http://www.wisdells.com/wisconsin-dells-attraction/automotion.cfm)
Heck yes... As far as the dells thing we might be in LaCrosse that weekend so its possible we could sneak over there...
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Roxy's developing. :o
She's getting cleavage.... 2.5" from the collectors to the tips. (having her done by a friend :D)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Misc_Pictures/Dir_3/medium_4630.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4630)
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I like your new title. :)
Did you weld that? Looks really good.
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I like your new title. :)
Did you weld that? Looks really good.
Naw, my welding looks like chicken shit on a post.
A friend of mine does custom exhaust and he's giving me a great deal. My car is all about low budget but trying to look good.
It should be done tomorrow. I'll post up more pics after it's done. He's reusing my mufflers but expanding the inlet and outlets.
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Looking good Don, this is the first time Ive seen your build thread. Glad to see all my parts got put to use.
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Getting closer. It'll be finished tomorrow. I mentioned to Clint that I would like to be able to disconnect the exhaust either at or just after the x-pipe to make removing the diff cradle easier. I kind of threw a glitch in his progress but he likes the idea. I told him one common factor to these cars is constant removal of the differential. (I've had mine out 4 times already and I'm looking at another episode soon)
I heard a wicked small block 69 Hemi Cuda in their lot and I jokingly asked if my car will sound like that. He said "Yeah, pretty much". I had to go find a towel. :D
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Misc_Pictures/Dir_3/medium_4636.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4636)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Misc_Pictures/Dir_3/medium_4637.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4637)
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Here it is finished...
It's amazing how much the motor woke up. Throttle response is instantaneous. I need to get it back on the dyno and find out how much it's changed. My butt dyno say's "A lot".
New 2.5" X-Pipe Exhaust (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WATLfH3w1qo&feature=youtu.be#ws)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Misc_Pictures/Dir_3/medium_4639.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4639)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Misc_Pictures/Dir_3/medium_4638.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4638)
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nice! looks and sounds good man!
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Sweet! That sounds fantastic.
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I enjoyed that video. Car sounds crazy freakin good, and looks clean as well. Good job.
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Very cool, Don! Sounds killer!
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Yea that sounds rotary. :P
very nice indeed
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Don,
You are ready for the La Crosse Street Drags.....tomorrow night, actually in West Salem, Wi.
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I'm starting to think I need more power...and stickier tires...and a garage so I can actually get stuff done
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The garage makes all the difference in the world.
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Very grrrrrr baby VERY GRRRR!! YEAH!!!
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Thanks for the compliments guys. :wave:
I get a shit eatin grin on my face every time I drive it now. LOL
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Don, are you doing the Two Rivers car show/cruise this year?
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I'm going to attempt to.
I will try to go up Friday after work. Saturday is up in the air though. I'll see if plans change. There's a Breezy install scheduled for Saturday but I'll see if I can get my trainee to do it. It hinges on his comfort level to do it by himself.
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Don,
My wife says it's too loud.
I think it sounds GREAT!
It's a sweet looking set-up, and I am looking forward to seeing it again at Indy.
Rick
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lol, i love the condition of the road out front of the shop
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lol, i love the condition of the road out front of the shop
LOL! A couple of the long straight ones are from me. Everyone leaves a little every time they get their car worked on. There's a lot of sweet looking cars they work on there.
Mostly old Mopars but he works on anything. I should probably do a video of some of the cars in there at any given time. Jim's a great guy. Really knows his shit.
This wasn't one of my best ones. I should have started in second gear....
New 2.5" X-Pipe Exhaust Tire Warm-up (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NCPTtOqPM4w&feature=g-upl#ws)
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Edelbrock intake manifold gaskets suck!
This is the second set of these that have done this.
Motor started burning oil last Fall and I noticed plugs at 3 and 5 getting oil fouled (chunks)
The last time this happened it was plugs 4 and 6.
I'm going with Fel-Pro this time.
[smg id=5914]
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Eewwwwwww.
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I guess your putting the new heads on, let us know how they work out. :)
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very nice sir
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Felpro is a good option, I haven't had any issue with them
how's everything coming along, you have about 24 days to get this shit sorted! :D
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I use felpro (KS2629 - part number for complete gasket kit for sbc) for all my gaskets and have never had a complaint. When I install intake gaskets on sbc's I typically will put a thin layer of High TemP RTV across head surface to help with adhesion of the intake gasket and always use the steel felpro gaskets. You may or may not like that idea, its just what I do and have not had one fail yet.
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I use felpro (KS2629 - part number for complete gasket kit for sbc) for all my gaskets and have never had a complaint. When I install intake gaskets on sbc's I typically will put a thin layer of High TemP RTV across head surface to help with adhesion of the intake gasket and always use the steel felpro gaskets. You may or may not like that idea, its just what I do and have not had one fail yet.
I use Gaskacinch on the head side for gasket adhesion with a little RTV at the water jackets on the intake manifold side. I think a key reason for the failure is there are no mounting bolts in the center for the Vortec heads. My timing was off at one time and caused a backfire through the carb. That's all it takes to push that gasket up and cause the breaks.
The Fel-Pro gaskets are thinner and have the blue seal on them. I think they will hold better. I'll still use the Gaskacinch on the heads to prevent the gasket from moving while installing the intake.
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Did you get your T-56 installed?
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Did you get your T-56 installed?
Not yet. Haven't had much time to work on it. :(
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I feel your pain Don, it's been months since I been able to do any meaningful work on my seven. I hate it when real life gets in the way of my fun. I have my hopes up that Father's Day weekend I can get some work in. Most days I feel like this:
(http://thechangerevolution.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/godputmeonearth.jpg?w=400&h=363)
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I feel your pain Don, it's been months since I been able to do any meaningful work on my seven. I hate it when real life gets in the way of my fun. I have my hopes up that Father's Day weekend I can get some work in. Most days I feel like this:
(http://thechangerevolution.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/godputmeonearth.jpg?w=400&h=363)
:D Yeah, that pretty much sums it up in a nutshell.
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Got the T56 installed. Plus new heads.
The T5 held up fairly well all things considered. About 60 runs at GLD and countless
showing off on the street.
About 2 months ago I was having my usual fun. Pulling out of a parking lot from a stop
light drifting, banging gears and smoking tires. Just as I was going into third the whole
car felt like it lifted off the ground with a loud bang. No more forward motion and the
transmission sounding like ball bearings rolling around in steel garbage can.
Yup, trans grenaded with flourish.
I was going to just purchase another T5 and call it a day. A few of you convinced me that I
need to go T56. I started looking for a T56 from an LT1 because that bolts right up to my
Gen1 bellhousing. Due to my 2 piece rear main seal I found that I would need to swap my
flywheel with a conversion flywheel that would allow this to work. That flywheel cost about
$550 dollars. Plus the cost of the trans which usually run around $1500 for a used LT1 T56
and a new clutch assembly to work with the conversion I started to change my mind.
Jordan pointed me to a transdapt plate that would allow me to use my current
clutch,flywheel and bellhousing setup with an LS1 T56.
The cost of the transdapt plate was $200. I sourced an LS1 T56 from LS1Tech out of Texas
for $1100 shipped.
So, back to the 6 speed route.
Before I blew the tranny, (wait, that doesn't sound right) Before the trans blew I was
having some issues with burning oil at cylinders 3 and 5. I figured the intake manifold
gaskets broke on me again. (it happened to me when the engine was a 355 right after I put
on the massaged Vortec heads) I was going to replace the gaskets but also decided to
replace the heads with Edelbrock Etec 200cc aluminum heads. (my current heads were iron
Vortec heads that have been completely reworked)
I finally got everything done this weekend except exhaust because my system was designed
around the T5 and it's trans brace. I have an appointment to have the exhaust system redone
Friday.
Here's the trans:
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Transmissio_shy;n/Dir_1/medium_7373.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7373)
Pulling the motor and trans:
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Transmissio_shy;n/Dir_1/medium_7388.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7388)
Chasing the threads for ARP headbolts:
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Transmissio_shy;n/Dir_1/medium_7389.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7389)
The new heads:
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Transmissio_shy;n/Dir_1/medium_7390.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7390)
Getting close:
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Transmissio_shy;n/Dir_1/medium_7393.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7393)
Here's the Gen1 block 2 piece rear main seal:
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Transmissio_shy;n/Dir_1/medium_7391.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7391)
Centerforce DF Clutch with 6 puck disc:
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Transmissio_shy;n/Dir_1/medium_7381.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7381)
Bellhousing, TOB:
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Transmissio_shy;n/Dir_1/medium_7382.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7382)
Transdapt plate to mount LS1 T56 to Gen1 SBC:
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Transmissio_shy;n/Dir_1/medium_7383.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7383)
Fork with plate installed:
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Transmissio_shy;n/Dir_1/medium_7392.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7392)
Bolting the Transdapt to Bellhousing:
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Transmissio_shy;n/Dir_1/medium_7386.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7386)
LS1 T56 bolted to Transdapt. The Transdapt plate holds the TOB in place so there is no
issue with trying to get the TOB lined up.
If I need to pull the transmission at a future date then I just unbolt the 7 bolts and
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Transmissio_shy;n/Dir_1/medium_7395.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7395)
Back in the car and bolted up. I had to use a special T56 trans brace manufactured by
Granny's Speed shop. Pretty much bolt the motor in, mount the brace to the trans.
Raise the trans into position and drill new holes for the brace. I aslo had to have my
driveshaft resized due to the extra length of the T56. I have my DS
work done by Machine Service in Waukesha. 1 day turn around. Pretty sweet!
(http://bikedad.com/rx7/trans/EngineCar2.jpg)
With the T5 the shifter was way forward. I had to cut out a large hole to accommodate it.
With the T56 it now sits back in the stock position.
I cut out some sheet metal and covered the old hole. (I'm not using this shifter. I'm using
my Steeda handle from my Pro-5.0 shifter from the T5.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Transmissio_shy;n/Dir_1/medium_7394.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7394)
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Looks great Don! Hope to see you at SNS again.
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Awesome! Looks great Don! Can't wait to rip on this in a few weeks, Oh! and invite that tranny too! lol
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Great progress.
The 2.66 first gear will be a lot better for DD vs. the 2.95 T-5 first .
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Don I have a question.. Why are you running non-vortec intake manifold gaskets? The L31 vortec intake manifold gaskets are .120" thick. The marine version are aluminum with bonded viton around the intake and water ports. My blocked was decked to 8.996" .003 clean up cut on the heads. I needed to take .040" off each side of the intake manifold to get the ports to line up with the correct manifold gaskets.
I ask because a paper gasket will move/break in the center part of the manifold.
rk
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Don I have a question.. Why are you running non-vortec intake manifold gaskets? The L31 vortec intake manifold gaskets are .120" thick. The marine version are aluminum with bonded viton around the intake and water ports. My blocked was decked to 8.996" .003 clean up cut on the heads. I needed to take .040" off each side of the intake manifold to get the ports to line up with the correct manifold gaskets.
I ask because a paper gasket will move/break in the center part of the manifold.
rk
Are you referring to those Edelbrock gaskets? Those are what Edelbrock sent me with the intake manifold originally when I first built the motor.
I'm not using those this time. What you describe is exactly what happened and I was blowing oil at #3 and #5. The gaskets I have now are Fel-Pro Blue (I don't recall the part number because I threw the packaging away and I'm not currently at home) that were recommended by a Fel-Pro rep. He also told me not to use Gaskacinch. Install dry. There are little guide pins in the heads to hold the gasket in place when installing the intake.
I hope these work better.
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Forgot about the guide pins.. sounds like you have the correct gaskets. Take a flash light to make sure there is not a huge mismatch between the manifold and ports.
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Forgot about the guide pins.. sounds like you have the correct gaskets. Take a flash light to make sure there is not a huge mismatch between the manifold and ports.
This^ I have seen some gaskets over hang at least an 1/8 inch with aftermarket heads and intake..
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Dyno today with all the mods applied from last session. (about 2 years ago)
Edelbrock 800CFM Thunder carb
Edelbrock Etec 200cc aluminum heads
Custom 2.5" x-pipe exhaust
115 octane leaded race gas mixed with 93 octane unleaded 10% ethanol.
Might need to increase secondary jet size. Leaning out a little.
[smg id=5983]
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Nice numbers!
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Nice numbers!
Thanks Blake.
I actually thought it was going to be a little more. I was hoping for 400 HP. I guess it's time to start looking into some crack. I mean NOS. :D
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Pffdt, put a huge cowl and a whipplecharger on it. :D
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Small video of at the Dyno.
RX7 Dyno 8-4-13 at LMT in Waukesha (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1NORFJlDdu4&feature=youtu.be#ws)
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Love your build ! Your car has been one of my motivations towards build a 350 carb'ed.
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Really nice Don! Looks like you got things sorted out quickly. I agree that you may have some hp left on the table, with the mods and cam you have. Let us know how it does at the track.
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track time!
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You're gonna need a cage. Good numbers Don, looking forward to seeing the car again :cheers:
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Are you installing a cage? You'll hit 400 whp in no time !
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Are you installing a cage? You'll hit 400 whp in no time !
Probably not. The car is pretty much as far as I want to take it for now. If I go any farther I'll just keep breaking shit. ;)
I have a lot of high dollar items coming due in the next couple years. Roof, windows, water heater, probably redo the deck.
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Glad your satisfied with your build at the moment ! :drive:
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Glad your satisfied with your build at the moment ! :drive:
:D
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How are you liking that 6th gear?
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How are you liking that 6th gear?
It's working great!
Very glad I was able to convert. So much nicer to drive.
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I haven't updated this in quite awhile. Here are some photos and a first start video of the 4th build on my motor.
I've also redone all the power wiring to 1/0 guage and some of the other wiring. I still need to cull some stuff but will do that over time.
Replaced all brake lines and installed Corksport stainless lines.
New calipers all around
New brake master
Remote starter solonoid
Corksport Rear camber adjustment link
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Bikedad's__quot;Roxy_quot;_1986_SE/Dir_2/main_6605.jpg)
Beehive valve springs for the new mechanical roller cam
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Bikedad's__quot;Roxy_quot;_1986_SE/Dir_2/main_6778.jpg)
Changing the springs
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Bikedad's__quot;Roxy_quot;_1986_SE/Dir_2/main_6780.jpg)
Relieving spring seats for the beehive springs
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Bikedad's__quot;Roxy_quot;_1986_SE/Dir_2/main_6781.jpg)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Bikedad's__quot;Roxy_quot;_1986_SE/Dir_2/main_6783.jpg)
New valve guide seals
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Bikedad's__quot;Roxy_quot;_1986_SE/Dir_3/main_6813.jpg)
Before porting and polishing
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Bikedad's__quot;Roxy_quot;_1986_SE/Dir_2/main_6784.jpg)
During porting and polishing
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Bikedad's__quot;Roxy_quot;_1986_SE/Dir_2/main_6785.jpg)
Final result
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Bikedad's__quot;Roxy_quot;_1986_SE/Dir_2/main_6787.jpg)
Getting the heads flat
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Bikedad's__quot;Roxy_quot;_1986_SE/Dir_2/main_6788.jpg)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Bikedad's__quot;Roxy_quot;_1986_SE/Dir_2/main_6790.jpg)
Assembled heads
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Bikedad's__quot;Roxy_quot;_1986_SE/Dir_3/main_6814.jpg)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Bikedad's__quot;Roxy_quot;_1986_SE/Dir_3/main_6814.jpg)
Roller lifters
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Bikedad's__quot;Roxy_quot;_1986_SE/Dir_3/main_6815.jpg)
Clearancing new billet timing cover for cam button
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Bikedad's__quot;Roxy_quot;_1986_SE/Dir_2/main_6793.jpg)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Bikedad's__quot;Roxy_quot;_1986_SE/Dir_2/main_6792.jpg)
New lightweight Fidanza aluminum flywheel
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Bikedad's__quot;Roxy_quot;_1986_SE/Dir_2/main_6794.jpg)
Putting it all back in
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Bikedad's__quot;Roxy_quot;_1986_SE/Dir_2/main_6795.jpg)
New urethane motor mounts
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Bikedad's__quot;Roxy_quot;_1986_SE/Dir_3/main_6796.jpg)
I love that leveler
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Bikedad's__quot;Roxy_quot;_1986_SE/Dir_3/main_6797.jpg)
Magazine shot? ;)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Bikedad's__quot;Roxy_quot;_1986_SE/Dir_3/main_6798.jpg)
My custom chromoly T56 cross-member
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Bikedad's__quot;Roxy_quot;_1986_SE/Dir_3/main_6799.jpg)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Bikedad's__quot;Roxy_quot;_1986_SE/Dir_3/main_6802.jpg)
Almost done
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Bikedad's__quot;Roxy_quot;_1986_SE/Dir_3/main_6800.jpg)
The ricer in me likes this NRG quick release wheel
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Bikedad's__quot;Roxy_quot;_1986_SE/Dir_3/main_6810.jpg)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Bikedad's__quot;Roxy_quot;_1986_SE/Dir_3/main_6811.jpg)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Bikedad's__quot;Roxy_quot;_1986_SE/Dir_3/main_6812.jpg)
First start celebration libation
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Bikedad's__quot;Roxy_quot;_1986_SE/Dir_3/main_6801.jpg)
First start
http://youtu.be/ZG0YszQ_7Ac (http://youtu.be/ZG0YszQ_7Ac)
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That work looks awesome Don and that car sounds awesome.
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Still meeting in La Crosse for CarCraft this summer?
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Motor sounds GREAT ! :bacon:
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Gee Don, you are pulling that thing out and rebuilding it all the time like it was a rotary. :poke:
It looks and sounds fantastic, I look forward to seeing it at SNS. You have given me a ride in two engine versions, so I hope to ride in #3. Maybe we need to take some time this year so people can ride in each other's cars.
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Still meeting in La Crosse for CarCraft this summer?
I'm not sure. My wife and I are planning a biking vacation and it will probably be that weekend. Still up in the air though.
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Sounds great! Nice work.
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Hah, I was thinking that "rebuilt #4" is a pretty normal RX7 video title!
Car looks and sounds great. Look forward to seeing it if you make it down to SNS this year.
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Hah, I was thinking that "rebuilt #4" is a pretty normal RX7 video title!
Car looks and sounds great. Look forward to seeing it if you make it down to SNS this year.
I know you can relate Blake. ;)
I'm planning on coming down again.
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Just keeps getting better, Don. Good work, the car sounded great before and now "more better". What cam specs this time?
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Just keeps getting better, Don. Good work, the car sounded great before and now "more better". What cam specs this time?
Comp Cams CS XR292 R-10 Mechanical Roller cam and lifters.
Gross valve lift: Intake-.582 Exhaust-.588
LSA: 110
Comp Cams Valve Springs: 26055
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Nice!!! I'm digging the machine work yourself!!
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Congrats! Sounds amazing and is a much healthier first start than mine :D
Lane
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Roxy's come along way from when you barely made it to your first SNS. I might have to swing down one of these weekends for a better look!
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Nice work Don!
Time to hit the track.
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You know, Don, Jon had about the same cam in his car only a hyd roller. Give it a 200 shot and hit the nines. :cheers:
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Nice to see you are still playing with the FC Don. Car sounds snappy and quick to rev :cheers:
Get some power runs for us!
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Looks good Don... Are we going to play the dyno guessing game soon?
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Looks good Don... Are we going to play the dyno guessing game soon?
Soon. I want to get the break in oil changed first before I take it to the dyno. :)
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Looks good Don... Are we going to play the dyno guessing game soon?
if Tracy's operating the dyno, I'll go with Tree Fiddy! Or a loop...
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Finally installed the lip/chin spoiler I bought over 3 years ago.
I purchased it from a member on RX7Club who was making them. (Rob xx 7)
I think he offered them here but I can't remember.
I bought it unfinished/unpainted. I wanted to match the rest of the molding on the car. Just applied a little Armor All and done.
[smg id=7057]
[smg id=7056]
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Looks good! :cheers: Need a profile shot of the car now.
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Yeah I like how it ties in nice with your hood scoop too! Profile shot for sure Don! :). You ever go dyno?
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I still haven't had it to the dyno yet.
I've put 2500 miles on it and had it to the track once.
12.1 @ 118 with a 2.01 60ft on street tires
I feathered the clutch in first so as not to spin the tires but it blows them off in 2nd and 3rd.
I'm trapping at 6400 rpm in 4th so I know there's a lot more there but I just have to learn to drive it better.
I'll take a profile shot after I reinstall the spoiler. :o It appears that the clips I used didn't hold and it started to drop in the center. I ordered some better ones and should be here today or tomorrow.
One thing I noticed right away is my engine temp dropped 10 degrees while driving. It seems to really direct air flow right into the radiator. That's a good thing for when I get out to Road America. ;)
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Yeah, they make a huge difference. I put a front air dam, ducting and a splitter on my car. ~30* drop in water temp. Took me from just staying at 200* to barely hitting 175* in the same circumstances.
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Hey Don,
I have the same spoiler. I think it looks good on the S4 even though it is shaped for the S5.
Steve
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Yeah, they make a huge difference. I put a front air dam, ducting and a splitter on my car. ~30* drop in water temp. Took me from just staying at 200* to barely hitting 175* in the same circumstances.
That's kind of what I discovered. I normally run about 175° F to 180° F in the evening on a nice drive. My low speed fan just kicks on. Last night it wouldn't budge past 160° F.
I had to pull over and set the choke plate to full open on the carb because it was running rich.
(car·bu·re·tor:a device in an internal combustion engine for mixing air with a fine spray of liquid fuel.) :D
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Hey Don,
I have the same spoiler. I think it looks good on the S4 even though it is shaped for the S5.
Steve
I had to do some cutting and adjusting. That's pretty much why I took so long to install it. Priorities ;)
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[[/quote]
(car·bu·re·tor:a device in an internal combustion engine for mixing air with a fine spray of liquid fuel.) :D
[/quote]
LOL
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Here's the latest run and dyno results after installing the A) Roller cam, B) Fidanza aluminum flywheel, C) Port, Polish and Port match the heads D) Installing new Tranzilla T-56 last Winter.
Great Lakes Dragway 9-1-2014 (Left Lane)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Misc_Pictures/Dir_3/medium_7080.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7080)
Late Model Throttle Dyno Shootout 9-20-2014
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Misc_Pictures/Dir_3/medium_7079.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7079)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Misc_Pictures/Dir_3/medium_7078.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7078)
http://youtu.be/HShE1ZoGBTg?list=UUF5hZ9_DQw5-V_tSEv0hcCA (http://youtu.be/HShE1ZoGBTg?list=UUF5hZ9_DQw5-V_tSEv0hcCA)
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very nice! solid mid / low 11 time with a good 60' !
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Thank you so much for all the good info on this build.
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Nice Numbers!!!
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Been creeping your build. Looks like good stuff! How come you haven't slapped some radials on?
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Been creeping your build. Looks like good stuff! How come you haven't slapped some radials on?
That last time slip was with radials. Mickey Thompson ET Streets. I just need to learn how to drive. :D
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Misc_Pictures/Dir_3/medium_7199.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7199)
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I also have been upgrading brakes and suspension for doing this....
Elkhart Lake Road America "Drive for Babies 2014"
http://youtu.be/cb2S1rvdslA?list=UUF5hZ9_DQw5-V_tSEv0hcCA (http://youtu.be/cb2S1rvdslA?list=UUF5hZ9_DQw5-V_tSEv0hcCA)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/DFB14/Dir_1/medium_7204.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7204)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/DFB14/Dir_1/medium_7202.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7202)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/DFB14/Dir_1/medium_7203.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7203)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/DFB14/Dir_1/medium_7201.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7201)
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Wow awesome Don! I am sure the car got a lot of attention after people saw it go out on the track. What did you think of the car out there on the track with all the changes you have made?
I got a Mustang Mach 1 chin spoiler to work very well with the s4 bumper. It is also flexible, so it wont break. I noticed an improvement in high speed stability with it, vs. stock. They are around $50 shipped on ebay.
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Wow awesome Don! I am sure the car got a lot of attention after people saw it go out on the track. What did you think of the car out there on the track with all the changes you have made?
I got a Mustang Mach 1 chin spoiler to work very well with the s4 bumper. It is also flexible, so it wont break. I noticed an improvement in high speed stability with it, vs. stock. They are around $50 shipped on ebay.
This years event was still with the TII diff. I'm really looking forward to the Ford 8.8 with 3.73 gears next year.
I'll be asking you more information on that chin spoiler. Mine got destroyed and not repairable (most of it ground away on the asphalt)
If you click on my Youtube channel I have a few more videos of the event. They're kind of long but interesting. I actually spun out in the first session. :D
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I stole Mach 1 chin spoiler the idea from Rrtec, and it works and fits very well. It takes about 90 minutes to install. If you have the factory little black chin spoiler for an S4 bumper, that really helps because it gives you the rough template of the shape and bolt pattern, but you don't need it. Here it is on my car.
(http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a386/largeorangefont/A46535E3-363A-4B95-A1D1-01E368D882A7_zps6oakmcql.jpg)
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bikedad, what width and offset are your Mustang wheels, and what size tires? They look really good on your car! Did you need to roll the fenders?
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That mustang chin spoiler looks really good on the s4 bumper
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bikedad, what width and offset are your Mustang wheels, and what size tires? They look really good on your car! Did you need to roll the fenders?
They're Cobra R knockoffs. The rear are 10.5x17 with 275-40-17 the front are 9x17 with 245-40-17. I used to run 255-40-17 on the front but had too much fender rub.
I rolled and pulled the front fenders.
With the current tires there is no rubbing. I only did a minor roll on the rear fenders. I used an Eastwood fender roller.
I don't know what the offset is. I bought them from oewheels.com
They were closeouts for $50 each
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Man, can't beat that price, thanks for the link.
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Loving the track pics Don! The FC looks so tiny out there next to corvettes...must be nice to give them a little surprise :)
How does she feel? Solid or frisky? I havent had my FC on the track since 2007 with Porsche Club of America and I need to get my butt out there. Between LOF always showing off his super sweet moves & track fun ;) and now you, I am getting stir crazy (not to mention my FC has changed a ton since then).
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Fronts are probably 17x9 +24, the factory 95 Cobra R size and offset.
Rears are most likely 17x10.5 +27
I run the 17x9 +24 all around on 255/40/17 tires.
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Loving the track pics Don! The FC looks so tiny out there next to corvettes...must be nice to give them a little surprise :)
How does she feel? Solid or frisky? I havent had my FC on the track since 2007 with Porsche Club of America and I need to get my butt out there. Between LOF always showing off his super sweet moves & track fun ;) and now you, I am getting stir crazy (not to mention my FC has changed a ton since then).
I think the car drove and handled great. Very solid feel and responsive on the turns. Hammering the throttle on the straights and she would snap the tires loose a little so I had to learn to come on the throttle smoothly. My suspension is nothing great. On the front I have stock (replaced) KYB GR-2 shocks. Eibach lowering springs. Energy suspension Red LCA bushings, No idea camber adjustment plates set to -1 from my base line. Charlie Bar strut tower bar. Rear are KYB white Gas Adjust shocks with Eibach 43/98 springs, Delrin diff bushings, DTSS bushings, stock sway bar with Energy suspension bushings and I think a Tein rear strut tower brace. I had two ride along instructors (who were chomping at the bit) ride with me in a couple of sessions. They were both very impressed with the car. One guy is a Porsche racer and said I would give him grief on the track with my car and more experience.
One specific item you really want to pay attention to are brakes. They will get tremendous usage and wear. My Stoptech rotors were bright blue, my new EBC Green Stuff pads were worn half away. I did experience brake fade on a couple of the turns. Specifically turn 1 coming down from 145mph and turn 5 coming down from about 120mph. Just hold the pedal down and steer. Just don't get too close to the car in front of you before the turn. :o I will say if you do track your car to make sure you Red Locktite the rear caliper bracket bolts. Both sides on mine came loose with the hard braking. The driver side actually came off. I destroyed the rotor and caliper on that side due to the way the pads were trying to engage. Everything was literally burned. I had 10 coats of caliper paint on them and it was fried off from the excessive friction caused by the loose bracket. Needless to say it scared the crap out of me when I saw it. I could't finish my last session.
Go around the entire car the day before and tighten everything. My calipers and brackets were tight according to spec but racing isn't spec. :poke:
My engine temps were about 215- 220 throughout the session. I don't have an oil temp gauge but pressure maintained 55 to 60 through each session. I was constantly running between 6500 to 7000 RPM. I never got to 6th gear. I drained about 1 Tbls of oil from my catch can after each session. I put old socks over my oil breathers on each valve cover. (Last year I had oil all over the engine that come out of the breathers) The socks worked great. (just an old pair of white tube socks) Remember I'm running an Gen1 SBC. ;)
Those are cracks from excessive heat. Each drill slot all the way around the rotor going down to the hub.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/DFB14/Dir_1/medium_7210.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7210)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/DFB14/Dir_1/medium_7207.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7207)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/DFB14/Dir_1/medium_7208.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7208)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/DFB14/Dir_1/medium_7209.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7209)
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Nice Don!
Pitch the drilled rotors in the trash, they always crack like that. Good quality blank rotors are what you want to use. You can use slotted, but never drilled. Spring for the Brembo blank front rotors if you can find them. Otherwise use a name brand (Centric, Raybestos, ACDelco) professional quality blank rotors. I am running ACDelco Professional rotors in the rear right now on my car and surprisingly they have been holding up great. They were $25 shipped each from Amazon.
EBC green pads are not up to track duty as you noticed. You may also want to remove the backing plates. That will help get more air to the brakes
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Fronts are probably 17x9 +24, the factory 95 Cobra R size and offset.
Rears are most likely 17x10.5 +27
I run the 17x9 +24 all around on 255/40/17 tires.
I believe you're correct Ash. I vaguely remember seeing those specs when I first got the rims.
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That's some good info. Glad nothing too bad happened. Your brakes looked like they got really toasty lol. Are those rear wheels Blake's old ones?
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That's some good info. Glad nothing too bad happened. Your brakes looked like they got really toasty lol. Are those rear wheels Blake's old ones?
The wheels with the ET Streets are from jasons.
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I knew those looked familiar!
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have you installed the Ronin 8.8 yet or you still T2?
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have you installed the Ronin 8.8 yet or you still T2?
The Ronin 8.8 swap is still in progress Robert. That track day event was still with the TII.
I ran into a little snag with the Mustang small flange. Ford Racing sent me the 1350 and I wanted the 1310. I didn't feel like hacking into the cradle for the larger size. The 1350 was installed on the diff and lash set. I had it replaced with the 1310 and reset the lash. I had to re-verify driveshaft length also. Right now I'm waiting on my new driveshaft. Machine Service was closed over the holidays. It should be done right after New Years.
No rush. I haven't had time to work on the car anyhow. Besides, I won't be able to drive it even after it's done. We have a season up here in the great midwest called Winter and they use salt on the roads. :D
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Nice Don!
Pitch the drilled rotors in the trash, they always crack like that. Good quality blank rotors are what you want to use. You can use slotted, but never drilled. Spring for the Brembo blank front rotors if you can find them. Otherwise use a name brand (Centric, Raybestos, ACDelco) professional quality blank rotors. I am running ACDelco Professional rotors in the rear right now on my car and surprisingly they have been holding up great. They were $25 shipped each from Amazon.
EBC green pads are not up to track duty as you noticed. You may also want to remove the backing plates. That will help get more air to the brakes
I was talking with the instructor (Porsche guy) at the drivers dinner after the event. He said pretty much the same thing. He said if I want the pretty parts for car shows then I should purchase an extra set of rotors (like what you described) and brake pads just for track days.
I think that's what I'll do. Swapping rotors and pads takes 15 minutes and forces me to make sure they're ready for the event.
I'm also considering a six point cage with removable door bars just for a little extra protection. I don't want to hack the interior up though. It's not a true race car as I still like to cruise with it. That will be the next project. :)
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. We have a season up here in the great midwest called Winter and they use salt on the roads. :D
We have four seasons in Montana: Spinter, Summer, snowFALL & Winter
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Good ole southeast Texas has all four seasons in one week. No salt though!
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The Ronin 8.8 swap is in. Haven't had a chance to drive it yet. Too much salt on the roads and my engine is winterized. (I release all the valve spring tension in Winter because I'm running solid lifters and the car doesn't get started for a few months)
My carrier is from a 2005 Ford Explorer. I ordered the Ford Racing Track Lok LSD. Ford Racing 3.73 Hobb grind gears. All bearings and seals have been replaced. A local speedshop Kilpatrick Engine & Transmission rebuilt the diff for me. They also welded the cradle mount. Axle inners were from the Explorer, shafts are Ronin and outers are GKN.
I went with the 1310 flange and a one piece slip yoke on the driveshaft.
A local company with 3 locations in Wisconsin and Illinois, Machine Service, built my driveshaft for me.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Ronin_8_8_Swap/Dir_1/medium_7278.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7278)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Ronin_8_8_Swap/Dir_1/medium_7276.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7276)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Ronin_8_8_Swap/Dir_1/medium_7275.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7275)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Ronin_8_8_Swap/Dir_1/medium_7274.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7274)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Ronin_8_8_Swap/Dir_1/medium_7271.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7271)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Ronin_8_8_Swap/Dir_1/medium_7268.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7268)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Ronin_8_8_Swap/Dir_1/medium_7269.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7269)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Ronin_8_8_Swap/Dir_1/medium_7218.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7218)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Ronin_8_8_Swap/Dir_1/medium_7277.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7277)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Ronin_8_8_Swap/Dir_1/medium_7279.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7279)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Ronin_8_8_Swap/Dir_1/medium_7280.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7280)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Ronin_8_8_Swap/Dir_1/medium_7281.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7281)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Ronin_8_8_Swap/Dir_1/medium_7282.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7282)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Ronin_8_8_Swap/Dir_1/medium_7283.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7283)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Ronin_8_8_Swap/Dir_1/medium_7284.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7284)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Ronin_8_8_Swap/Dir_1/medium_7285.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7285)
Dat asss!! :D
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Ronin_8_8_Swap/Dir_1/medium_7286.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7286)
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Looks great!
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Excellent! You are going to love it.
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Pure sex! Did you sell your other set up?
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Excellent! You are going to love it.
Thanks for all your help Ash. I'm excited to get it rolling. Unfortunately it just started snowing again. :P
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Pure sex! Did you sell your other set up?
Not yet. I've had some interest in it though. I would like to sell everything as a whole kit. I'm going to palletize and weigh it to see what shipping will be.
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Beautiful work Don! Hope you get some warm weather soon to try it out. The Ronin 8.8 is on the top of my list of "must have" upgrades.
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That's funny. I saw the 6.2 and thought this was an LS3 car.
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Beautiful work Don! Hope you get some warm weather soon to try it out. The Ronin 8.8 is on the top of my list of "must have" upgrades.
Thanks Mark.
I'll let you know how it works. Then you can install it and drive long distances to the next SNS in better comfort. ;)
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That's funny. I saw the 6.2 and thought this was an LS3 car.
:D Naw, just a Gen1 SBC 383 Stroker build. It worked with the "Mazda 626" emblem I had. ;)
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That looks great Don! So when does your local track open up? :drive:
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That looks great Don! So when does your local track open up? :drive:
Thanks Thomas. GLD usually opens around the end of March. I usually wait till later though. Roads won't be salt free until around the end of April to May. (that stuff is terrible. :barf:)
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lookin' Good!
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Don't blame ya one bit considering how clean your car is
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Awesome Don! I can't wait to drive it! :yay:
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Nice job! Im jell
(one day...)
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That diff setup is awesome! Love the car Don just wanted to re-iterate!
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Well hello hello everyone!
I figured I would dig Don's thread up to provide an update: I am the new owner of Roxy and could not be happier about it! Don and I spoke for several weeks leading up to the sale and will remain in touch as I continue his gorgeous build.
I have not decided whether I would like to continue this thread or start a new build thread at this time, but either way I'll be documenting her evolution as we move forward! I actually sold my LS swapped FC to a good friend and fellow RX7 lover so that I could make room for Roxy. After a few weeks of ownership and driving her I believe I made the right decision. This build will continue at a gradual pace, continuing in the direction Don was taking the car: Street animal and track worthy when called upon.
The long term goal with this car is to drive to and from SCCA Solo Nationals, competing in XP. I do not care if the car is not competitive against some of the stripped monsters that live in the class. The satisfaction of driving to and from such a large competition will be enough to hold me over until the bug bites and we strip / cage the car. I am an avid autocrosser and SCCA member in the Finger Lakes Region.
Some of the plans:
I will be working with either Motion Control Suspension or Flatout Suspension systems to develop a double adjustable remote reservoir coilover solution for Roxy. I have made contact with both organizations at this point. We'll make a decision on which one to go with this coming winter.
She will be receiving a Ronin widebody this coming winter. It will be paint matched to the car's gorgeous sapphire blue exterior. The widebody will be necessary to fit 315's at all four corners.
We'll be installing an electric power steering system and converting back to PS from a manual rack. As much as I'd like to keep the manual steering, 315's just aren't going to work for me. Wheels will be 18x11.5 all around.
More to come.
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:cheers:
Will be watching for updates.
BTW, :chug: Yeah, 1 case of Yuengling already gone.
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:cheers:
Will be watching for updates.
BTW, :chug: Yeah, 1 case of Yuengling already gone.
Ummm, you didn't share with me!
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:cheers:
Will be watching for updates.
BTW, :chug: Yeah, 1 case of Yuengling already gone.
Ummm, you didn't share with me!
You have to drive here to share. ;)
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:cheers:
Will be watching for updates.
BTW, :chug: Yeah, 1 case of Yuengling already gone.
Ummm, you didn't share with me!
You have to drive here to share. ;)
MAKE SURE YOU HAVE SOME IN STOCK FOR KOTS SPRING NEXT YEAR! WHY AM I YELLING!??
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Don I'll likely be back out that way for some Solo events in the future. I'll let you know. I've played beer mule many a time. Being an enabler has its perks :chug:
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Well hello hello everyone!
I figured I would dig Don's thread up to provide an update: I am the new owner of Roxy and could not be happier about it! Don and I spoke for several weeks leading up to the sale and will remain in touch as I continue his gorgeous build.
I have not decided whether I would like to continue this thread or start a new build thread at this time, but either way I'll be documenting her evolution as we move forward! I actually sold my LS swapped FC to a good friend and fellow RX7 lover so that I could make room for Roxy. After a few weeks of ownership and driving her I believe I made the right decision. This build will continue at a gradual pace, continuing in the direction Don was taking the car: Street animal and track worthy when called upon.
The long term goal with this car is to drive to and from SCCA Solo Nationals, competing in XP. I do not care if the car is not competitive against some of the stripped monsters that live in the class. The satisfaction of driving to and from such a large competition will be enough to hold me over until the bug bites and we strip / cage the car. I am an avid autocrosser and SCCA member in the Finger Lakes Region.
Some of the plans:
I will be working with either Motion Control Suspension or Flatout Suspension systems to develop a double adjustable remote reservoir coilover solution for Roxy. I have made contact with both organizations at this point. We'll make a decision on which one to go with this coming winter.
She will be receiving a Ronin widebody this coming winter. It will be paint matched to the car's gorgeous sapphire blue exterior. The widebody will be necessary to fit 315's at all four corners.
We'll be installing an electric power steering system and converting back to PS from a manual rack. As much as I'd like to keep the manual steering, 315's just aren't going to work for me. Wheels will be 18x11.5 all around.
More to come.
Keep us posted! I'm very interested in both the double adjustable shocks/struts and the EPS conversion. Manual steering +275's on tight hills and big bumps was a motherf*cker...
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I'll be following the template laid out in this previous thread: http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=9817.30 (http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=9817.30)
Its especially relevant since we are both working with a Ganny's subframe. Whether or not the one in Roxy was set up for power steering is another question, but we'll make it work. There is plenty of material to be clearanced if need be. Don can probably answer that question.
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Don I'll likely be back out that way for some Solo events in the future. I'll let you know. I've played beer mule many a time. Being an enabler has its perks :chug:
Great! I see Roxy is in good hands.
On a serious note, congrats on the car! My old FC and Roxy have seen a lot of miles together over the years and it's nice to see someone get it that wants to keep the constant build going.
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Its too nice and too close to being a real animal to stop here. And the way I figure, this car is as nice as it is, because of Don's constant tinkering and improvements. I think it would be an insult to let her sit unattended with no intention of going after her true potential. Akina's build in particular is telling of what can be done with a clean FC chassis and enough time / patience.
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I'll be following the template laid out in this previous thread: http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=9817.30 (http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=9817.30)
Its especially relevant since we are both working with a Ganny's subframe. Whether or not the one in Roxy was set up for power steering is another question, but we'll make it work. There is plenty of material to be clearanced if need be. Don can probably answer that question.
The car originally had a power steering rack in it. That sub frame has the cutouts for the lines. I removed them a few years ago.
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Its too nice and too close to being a real animal to stop here. And the way I figure, this car is as nice as it is, because of Don's constant tinkering and improvements. I think it would be an insult to let her sit unattended with no intention of going after her true potential. Akina's build in particular is telling of what can be done with a clean FC chassis and enough time / patience.
Roxy is a very pretty girl right now that likes to have fun. Akina has a hot fox that knows how to move and make you drool. 8)
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I'd love to keep the manual steering. The 315's would love to see me struggle, I'm sure :banghead:. I am hoping to have a friend (who happens to be an electrical engineer) help me with either a variable speed controller for the EPAS pump or to find a way to set up the speed sensing function from an SW20 MR2 when we swap back to power steering.
Being able to adjust assist on the fly would be awesome
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I've thought about going back to PS on my FD, but I'd need a new rack to start with.
If I do go that route, I'm interested in using an electric pump with a speed sensitive controller as well. 8)
I'll have to keep tabs on this thread.
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My thought process is that if the system was already set up for variable assist reading off the module that read wheel speed, we should be able to hijack that function with a simple potentiometer. That would be especially true if I can run the system off switched 12v power. That previous thread ran their system right off the battery cable with a switch, relay and fuse in line.
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If that isn't a viable option I can just run a step down valve on the lines themselves and run the pump at a constant speed / voltage. Something like the valve from turnone that can be installed in line. Less ideal than being able to adjust on the fly, but I can live with that if it means i get some degree of control over steering effort.
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nice to see this car in good hands, again :)
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Today's rainy day (skipped autoX) update: The KYB's are back in the car in the rear for now. The rear sway bar is now out of the car. Was not a fan of the rear axle on turn in. Felt like the back of the car was trying to lead the front. I have always preferred my miatas without the rear sway bar and thus far I like the way the FC feels sans rear sway as well.
This feels like a more cohesive, predictable set up. I will likely run a rear sway once the car is on wider wheels and tires, but for now I'm pleased.
We also made a major upgrade to the brakes: I had a 929 master cylinder sitting ready to go for my old V8 FC, so we swapped that in along with Hawk HP+ pads all around. The car now stops like its hitting a concrete wall. So much so that I'll need a proportioning valve once we get wheels and tires swapped. Bedding these in was...interesting. Tires are now the limiting factor getting the car hauled down from speed. Really loving the pedal feel as well. Still has some of the FC dead spot at the top of its travel, but the pedal is much more progressive than before.
I'll have to get better about actually taking pictures in the future. Then again...most of you know what FC guts look like.
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Today's rainy day (skipped autoX) update: The KYB's are back in the car in the rear for now. The rear sway bar is now out of the car. Was not a fan of the rear axle on turn in. Felt like the back of the car was trying to lead the front. I have always preferred my miatas without the rear sway bar and thus far I like the way the FC feels sans rear sway as well.
This feels like a more cohesive, predictable set up. I will likely run a rear sway once the car is on wider wheels and tires, but for now I'm pleased.
We also made a major upgrade to the brakes: I had a 929 master cylinder sitting ready to go for my old V8 FC, so we swapped that in along with Hawk HP+ pads all around. The car now stops like its hitting a concrete wall. So much so that I'll need a proportioning valve once we get wheels and tires swapped. Bedding these in was...interesting. Tires are now the limiting factor getting the car hauled down from speed. Really loving the pedal feel as well. Still has some of the FC dead spot at the top of its travel, but the pedal is much more progressive than before.
I'll have to get better about actually taking pictures in the future. Then again...most of you know what FC guts look like.
One thing I was going to try was a new brake booster check valve or even booster itself.
With that Extreme Energy cam it loses a lot of vacuum when you haul it down coming into a tight curve. (Unless you're good at heel-toe braking) I had a couple of "Oh shit!" moments at the last track day.
The car is fine by itself but when you're chasing a Z06 through the twisties it can get sketchy. :o
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Don I actually noticed that characteristic tonight. A sudden drop of pedal pressure coming down off compression under braking. Was a bit scary. I may want to think of swapping to a boosterless set up at some point. Or find a way to supplement vacuum to the existing booster.
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I might not be understanding the issue correctly, but don't you mean that you experience a sudden increase in pedal pressure to brake the car? If the engine is not producing enough vacuum it effectively takes the booster assist away.
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Yes I mixed myself up it would seem. Pedal suddenly goes much firmer but requires much more travel to get the same amount of brake force.
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Good to see Roxy progressing even more
Side note: I have Roxy's original driver's seat bracket in my car(along with the Pro5-0 shifter from she had a T5), and I used her passenger seat for a Forza gaming rig.
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This weekend's update: Removing the sunroof is a PITA. So..here are the fruits of the labor. Carbon fiber piece is installed in the car. Gutted the whole stock assembly and cut quite a bit of metal out of the frame itself. total savings comes to about 22lb. If i remove whats left of the frame and mount using L brackets I'll drop another 8 or so pounds.
It took a while and some finagling to get the mounts on the carbon panel to play nice with the sunroof frame itself....I decided to do this outside. It was a beautiful day, the sun was shining! Then i ran out of light. And became dinner for every mosquito within a 5 mile radius. 16 bites later and the new panel was in! It wasn't all tears and pain...I managed to track down a certain member on here in the wild...the girls got together for a while and had coffee while we watched. [attachimg=1][attachimg=2][attachimg=3]
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Looks great! :cheers:
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I'll probably end up doing L brackets soon enough, but what spurred me to get on this so quickly was the fact that I gave Roxy a good wash and detail last weekend. I came back two days later and realized i did not open the sunroof after washing her to check for water in the rails. Sure enough I noticed what looked like bubbling in the surface of the outer sunroof panel around the front and rear edges. Very hard to see, but it was definitely there. Opened the sunroof and found water in the drip tray beneath. Older factory seal was letting some water through.
If there is one thing I have absolutely 0 patience or tolerance for it is corrosion / rust :banghead:
So I made the decision right then and there that the panel would have to come off the car immediately. Upon removal I found the beginnings of the classic FC sunroof panel rust. Really a shame, because a good buddy of mine wanted this panel under the assumption it was clean as could be. He owns my old LS swapped FC and the sunroof on that car was toast. On the plus side I'll probably use the old panel to do a lay up for a carbon sunroof plug.
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Finally got the clamps we ripped off the exhaust while loading the car onto the trailer back on so the car sounds a little more civil now. A little. Not much of a difference, but this exhaust just needs to serve until we can get a lightweight single exit fabbed up. I love the way it sounds, but just looking at this exhaust you can tell its pretty heavy. Also want to build some extensions for the collectors to see if we see any difference in mid range torque.
Test fit the widebody wheels for the first time last night.
[attachimg=1]
These are Cosmis XT206R's wrapped in Toyo R888's. Not my favorite tire in the whole world, but they came on the wheels and had all of 5 miles on them. These will be replaced by 315 width hoosiers all around once the car is rolling on them. Current width is 305. Surprisingly the rears fit with about 5mm clearance to the trailing arm.
[attachimg=2]
I'll end up running a 5mm spacer to play it safe with tire flex. Fronts pictured below were put on with a 20mm adapter (5x114 to 5x114) and it was way overkill. With the coilovers in the car, more camber and a 5mm spacer I'll have plenty of clearance under the widebody.
[attachimg=3]
Dat. Fitment. :cheers: