NoRotors.com - RX7 Engine Swap Forum
Technical Information => Build Threads => Topic started by: Donthitme on July 27, 2011, 12:19:22 AM
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Hi my name is Bryan, I just received and parked my first RX-7. I have always loved the car ever since it came out, never had the money to really do what I wanted to do with it. This forum has been inspirational and now that I'm a little more stable I can begin the project. Thanks to Steve for the car and Marcus for the wheels. :yay:
Some Arrival pics!
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WTF are these for, Steve said he removed them when he removed the rear PPF do I need to reinstall these? :confused:
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wont need them if you are going LSx. You will be replacing with something like a Samberg or Hinson part.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-vMfJQPGGYIw/S4lmfF_CaNI/AAAAAAAAAS4/0aLkQgq80QE/s912/IMG_3401.JPG)
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wont need them if you are going LSx. You will be replacing with something like a Samberg or Hinson part.
Thanks, I'm still catching up on reading and the previous owner took a lot of parts off so I'm kind of in the middle of his dis-assembly.
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From the bottom up, one side of a pair of rear subframe reinforcements. Should be two of those. Middle two are tranny tunnel braces. There is another thread about those right now. Top one, I'm not sure (stock tranny mount?).
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Some of those are tunnel braces, and you DO need those.
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Some of those are tunnel braces, and you DO need those.
+1. I believe you really just need the rear most one.
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In the picture the top one is the trans mount and the middle one is a support brace that goes by the rear diff ( along with that bracket at the very bottom, there should be 2 of those). Then finally the third one gets placed in the middle of the car likely where your y-pipe goes from 2 to 1.
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Hey bro, sent you a PM. Look forward to updates and another swapped FD :yay:
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You only need the bottom two braces.
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Thank you all I found the other one, it was hidden under the foam in the spare tire hole. I'll post more pics later appreciate all the help. :halo:
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Got some work done through the week started preparing the engine bay for paint and cuts, took out the dash to look at my black and tan carpet. :'( Picked up 2 Metro shelves for big parts, and reconditioned all the rusted nuts,bolts screws with WD-40, C.L.R., Gun Bluing and sewing machine oil. Used a tackle box to sort them. One hour bath on each solution :)
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What's the process on those bolts?
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nice!
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What's the process on those bolts?
Just wipe down with WD-40 to remove dirt and initial rust, then use cloth to dry. Dip in CLR solution for 1 hour, you may want to dip it longer depending on the rust, on some I had to do overnight. Rinse with water and cloth dry do not air dry it will immediately rust again. Dip in gun bluing solution, cloth dry. Place in a container and drip sewing machine oil freely, this will help cure the gun blueing. (you need the sewing machine oil to keep O2 out while it's curing so put enough oil to cover the bolts)
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Nice 8) Now hurry up and finish it so you can start destroying tires :yay:
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What's the process on those bolts?
Just wipe down with WD-40 to remove dirt and initial rust, then use cloth to dry. Dip in CLR solution for 1 hour, you may want to dip it longer depending on the rust, on some I had to do overnight. Rinse with water and cloth dry do not air dry it will immediately rust again. Dip in gun bluing solution, cloth dry. Place in a container and drip sewing machine oil freely, this will help cure the gun blueing. (you need the sewing machine oil to keep O2 out while it's curing so put enough oil to cover the bolts)
I did something very similar, here was my process:
1. Try to force bolts back in by hand.
2. Run a die over any that would not thread due to rust buildup.
3. Reinstall bolts.
4. Clean the heads to make myself think they were new and shiny.
5. Out of sight, out of mind!
No, really, that's awesome, I bet those are some happy bolts!
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Glad to see it's gone to a good home :), it was totally being neglected in my garage haha
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Update?
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Ok update I guess, not much done. Just started cleaning and painting, I wanted to post once I finished all the painting but I guess this will do for now.
Lip was cut and the brackets removed, also sanded the engine bay ready for POR15.
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.Engine bay degreased and cleaned ready for paint.
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.Suspension removed and wells are cleaned and degreased ready for 3M Rubber.
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.3M Rubberized undercoating applied.
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.POR15 Anti Rust + UV Top Coat + Cleaners
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.$9.99 spray gun :p
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.$4.00 goggles, these were really good, I did not have any fog and they were very well sealed. Mexican tested i guess. :yay:
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.Paint booth stolen from Lane. It was a really humid day and all my tape was falling off. I finally found out that the clear plastic packaging tape was the best for this type of plastic drop cloth. Intake.
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.Exhaust
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.POR15 Applied (2 coats, 8 hours apart from each other.)
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.My respirator needs a respirator :scratch:
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.2X coats of Black cote (24 hours apart)
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.My Exhaust after all that.
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.3 days later the paint cured, I removed the masking. :chug:
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.Close up.
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.KSport Coils (10kg front, 6kg rear)
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.Samberg Frames
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Samberg Frames
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+1 for a POR-15'd engine bay 8) :drive:
I later scuffed it down and painted right over it.
(http://www.brewcitymuscle.com/albums/rx7_rebuild/IMG_2973.sized.jpg)
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+1 for a POR-15'd engine bay 8) :drive:
I later scuffed it down and painted right over it.
Dude, I love your build I guess you and your dad recovered fromt he lightning incident. Anyways I don't have any helping hands and my family is always bugging me to help them with every little thing so I have very few moments to myself. I will get there eventually. ::)
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Weekend update, I don't have all the pics but I did manage to also get the steering column and brake rotors POR15'd.
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Rebuilt the rusty pedals, POR15, just need to clean them a bit more.
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POR15'd the rusted dash brace, I reinstalled it, the dash has a lot of broken plastic :(
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POR15'd Samberg's stuff.
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Bushings came in, I was really happy because my shit was slowing down because of this.
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Got the first ones mounted and had to take my family out to dinner so I had to stop :scratch:
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Got some stuff done, Engine mount and front suspension installed with rebuilt brakes. Slowly stripping the interior for Lizard skin treatment. :chug:
Here is the process on the calipers in case someone wants another color. http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=8248.0 (http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=8248.0)
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16 day caliper paint
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Rotors resurfaced
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Calipers rebuilt and added Hawk brake pads.
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Installed
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Angry Bird
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Brakes before.
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Man, some of you guys and your builds... I love it... going thru the whole car. I was so impatient. I was like, "dammit, rotary out, ls1 in, done" :P One day I will get around to cleaning stuff up like the calipers, paint, interior, etc.. does it ever end lol ;) Can't wait for you to finish that thing, we should go cruising sometime when you're up and running... you're close by. BTW not sure if you're into autocrossing or open track days, but there is tons of stuff going on around So Cal we can do... I'm going to try and start back up in Jan 2012 if you're interested...
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Man, some of you guys and your builds... I love it... going thru the whole car. I was so impatient. I was like, "dammit, rotary out, ls1 in, done" :P One day I will get around to cleaning stuff up like the calipers, paint, interior, etc.. does it ever end lol ;) Can't wait for you to finish that thing, we should go cruising sometime when you're up and running... you're close by. BTW not sure if you're into autocrossing or open track days, but there is tons of stuff going on around So Cal we can do... I'm going to try and start back up in Jan 2012 if you're interested...
Thanks Mike, everyone is so supportive in this forum it's really amazing. I ask the dumbest shit and I get answers lol. I would definitely go with you once I'm done.
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Shit I need to remove.
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and I'm testing this ratcheting flare nut wrench.
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Another socal guy?!
NICE! :yay:
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Is this some kind of celebration of the new unauthorized Angry Birds theme park in China? The calipers look great.
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I noticed my brake rotors didn't come with the giant screws so I bought some, then proceeded to rip out the dynomat. Lizard skin arrived and started removing interior and masking. Sprayed and Prayed.....
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No Screws. :(
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Luckily hardware store had the allen type :-[
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Dynomat removed
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yuck
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Lizard skin arrived
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Interior removed and masked for spray.
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Sprayed
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Rear
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Ceiling
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I used all 2 gallons of sound dampener and 2 gallons of Ceramic insulation. Came out nice was kind of tricky looking for the masking but I took alot of pictures as suggested from Mefarri's build. I also masked the surrounding areas completely as suggested by Lane. Props to those guys, this shit was tiresome as hell when masking but fun when it was time to splatter it all over.
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Got the doors too.
On a side note I forgot to add I did enlarge my clutch hole on the firewall before all this madness started.
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.Enlarged my clutch hole for the wilwood
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Used a unibit to do this so it would come out clean.
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wow, talk about meticulous, I just moved mine over to LA and haven't touched it since lol
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Just got my LS2, 25k miles complete with harness $3800 out of an 06 Vette..... :D :D :D He forgot the pedal so he's going to ship it separately :(
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.A Little dirty going to need to clean this up.
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.Front Passenger 243 Check
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.It already has an FBody oil pan, but it needs a new gasket.
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The previous owner of the motor must of gone off roading, That motor is way to dirty for 25k miles... Did you get a picture of his cluster?
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The previous owner of the motor must of gone off roading, That motor is way to dirty for 25k miles... Did you get a picture of his cluster?
I the saw them pull it out, this engine was 2 hours away from me. They pulled it out and delivered. Believe it or not its just dust I think they had it sitting there for awhile.
Modify:Yes sorry it was running on the car before the pullout.
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Alright then congrats!!!
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Alright then congrats!!!
thank you it was so stressful looking for a motor that wasn't overpriced.
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Damn how bad is this??? :(
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Starter Area
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You got hosed. That is junk, seller almost HAD to know it. Get your money back ASAP.
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Ouch. That explains why it's so dirty. I hope you can get your $$$ back.
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Wait. That's not even cracked where it could leak. Why is so much oil crusted all over it?
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DUDE......That son-of-a-bitch needs to refund you asap! Why do people have to be so shady. I would seriously have to refrain from smashing in his teeth for trying to pull that BS
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You got hosed. That is junk, seller almost HAD to know it. Get your money back ASAP.
I will contact him and try, does anyone know what needs to be done to repair this? New block or JB weld?
I would probably have to agree that he did know, the bellhousing from the auto transmission was reinstalled. Why would someone go to the trouble of reinstalling the housing other than to cover it up.
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I am no expert but I imagine that due to heat expansion and contraction in addition to motor twist, that crack will only grow with time.
again though I am no expert :-[
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This is by the starter, I've been reading that a few people are having this issue. Some people are JB welding this back and they say it hasnt failed them, I might just get a new block and transfer everything if I can't return it. :(
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Don't JB weld that, please. :)
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Oh man, I feel like I'm gonna throw up for you right now. He's just hoping you don't say anything, I guess? Where'd you buy this, CL, ebay? If it were going to have a chance of being repaired, it would need to be welded. But I don't see what this has to do with you.
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Oh man, I feel like I'm gonna throw up for you right now. He's just hoping you don't say anything, I guess? Where'd you buy this, CL, ebay? If it were going to have a chance of being repaired, it would need to be welded. But I don't see what this has to do with you.
I'm pretty sure this is the part where he stops all contact with me. I will try to ask for a full refund and just return the item. I do however have all the emails and documentation of the sale so I can most likely take him to small claims. I'm hoping he'll just be good about it and accept the fact and accept the return. But I have a bad feeling this is going to get ugly.
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I will contact him and try, does anyone know what needs to be done to repair this?
I'd start with a good solid ass whipping.
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I will contact him and try, does anyone know what needs to be done to repair this?
I'd start with a good solid ass whipping.
He just replied, apparetly he's willing to repair it. I need your input guys asap too lol appreciate all the help.
That appears to be the starter ear of the block. Over the years ive seen several LS1/LS2 blocks cracked and broken off in the same spot. That location is the ear of the block going to the starter mount which has no oil/coolant jackets near it etc.
We have had customer break off that whole ear or have a similar crack and have us reweld it on. due to the pull/torque of the starter engaging. What happens is the torque of the starter pulls on that ear everytime it engages. Since it was running great and didnt show any signs of problems etc I didnt see any issues etc.
If youd like we can repair it, it wont be temporaryfix, tig welding it up is stronger than the block after.
Let me know.
Hi Jim,
I'm kind of concerned that this crack is going to cause the engine to fail with the heat and stress it's only going to get bigger. I used a dentist mirror to check the extent of the damage and the crack is already very close to the crank shaft. I sent pictures to a local guy here who has been rebuilding GM engines for 30 years and he said I will have to do 1 of 2 things, weld it which is a temporary fix or purchase a new block and swap the parts. I'm hoping we can resolve this between us so I won't have to spend the extra 1k maybe 2k for the repairs? I'm sending you a copy of the pictures I took.
thank you
Bryan
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This is the speeshop that sold me the motor. BTW I love how he says "it appears to be" like this is the first time he's seen it.
http://www.calspeedperformance.com/ (http://www.calspeedperformance.com/)
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How magnanimous of him. ::) I would not be shy, he needs to let you return it if that's what you want. I think you should just return it on principle. I would not want to have that in the back of my mind.
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How magnanimous of him. ::) I would not be shy, he needs to let you return it if that's what you want. I think you should just return it on principle. I would not want to have that in the back of my mind.
Thanks SV, your sense of humor was a good pickup to a lousy morning :P. I did manage to find some people who have had this issue in LS1 tech. Do you guys think the tig weld will be good enough?
http://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-external-engine/1429338-starter-problem-need-serious-help.html (http://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-external-engine/1429338-starter-problem-need-serious-help.html)
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Likewise! I believe that when the connection between the block and trans is loose, when the mating surfaces are not flush (and as he noted there was a loose bolt), it creates a lever point that can crack the block when the starter torques on it. I think I read that somewhere. Perhaps it was driven for some time in your case (it seems possible/likely), after it had cracked, which may have caused the crack to propagate some more.
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Don't JB weld that, please. :)
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I will contact him and try, does anyone know what needs to be done to repair this?
I'd start with a good solid ass whipping.
He just replied, apparetly he's willing to repair it. I need your input guys asap too lol appreciate all the help.
That appears to be the starter ear of the block. Over the years ive seen several LS1/LS2 blocks cracked and broken off in the same spot. That location is the ear of the block going to the starter mount which has no oil/coolant jackets near it etc.
We have had customer break off that whole ear or have a similar crack and have us reweld it on. due to the pull/torque of the starter engaging. What happens is the torque of the starter pulls on that ear everytime it engages. Since it was running great and didnt show any signs of problems etc I didnt see any issues etc.
If youd like we can repair it, it wont be temporaryfix, tig welding it up is stronger than the block after.
Let me know.
Hi Jim,
I'm kind of concerned that this crack is going to cause the engine to fail with the heat and stress it's only going to get bigger. I used a dentist mirror to check the extent of the damage and the crack is already very close to the crank shaft. I sent pictures to a local guy here who has been rebuilding GM engines for 30 years and he said I will have to do 1 of 2 things, weld it which is a temporary fix or purchase a new block and swap the parts. I'm hoping we can resolve this between us so I won't have to spend the extra 1k maybe 2k for the repairs? I'm sending you a copy of the pictures I took.
thank you
Bryan
Yeah, all that stuff he told you is bullshit. That block is dead.
Get your money back, and give him the engine back.
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Actually i just researched and this looks to be a pretty common problem on the aluminum block ls's. Shitty part is it is cast and welding it is severely tough.
I would pass on it bud. You will find another engine. Sucks man
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Why do people always think that aluminum castings are hard to weld? This is a myth. Other than a few specific alloys that you nearly never see, cast aluminum welds beautifully if cleaned and prepped well, and no jackass has beat you there with a tube of JB weld.
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Why do people always think that aluminum castings are hard to weld? This is a myth. Other than a few specific alloys that you nearly never see, cast aluminum welds beautifully if cleaned and prepped well, and no jackass has beat you there with a tube of JB weld.
I understand that alot of you think it's already junk, but if repaired properly will this still work? Trying to give the seller the benefit of the doubt.
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If you do that, you'll carry it with you subconsciously, and I think it will just make it harder not to just roll over at the slightest hint of conflict, in the future.
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If you do that, you'll carry it with you subconsciously, and I think it will just make it harder not to just roll over at the slightest hint of conflict, in the future.
I totally agree, like I said I will "try" to initiate a return to the seller.
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you could fix it, just be careful to get it right since that dowel is locating your trans
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Why do people always think that aluminum castings are hard to weld? This is a myth. Other than a few specific alloys that you nearly never see, cast aluminum welds beautifully if cleaned and prepped well, and no jackass has beat you there with a tube of JB weld.
I understand that alot of you think it's already junk, but if repaired properly will this still work? Trying to give the seller the benefit of the doubt.
I'd want to see the damage in front of me to tell you that. If the block pressure tests OK, that can be welded up and a timesert installed in that bellhousing bolt hole that's intersected by the crack. I've fixed this same thing before, but both times it was because the engine was a pullout from a wreck, not a starter issue. Both were from Corvettes too... maybe it's related to the torque tube somehow. Usually the loose starter deal breaks off the outer starter mount hole and the ear off the starter. Your damage is much worse than that.
Sure, it'll probably be fine with a good repair and never cause you a problem, but it isnt worth clean unbroken block money. Personally, I'd tell them if they want to give me back a grand, I'd have it fixed, otherwise issue me a refund and send a truck for the broken shit.
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The crack might have something to do with swapping to the LS1 oil pan. If you read the FSM for the oil pan R&R procedure, you'll know what I'm talking about. They say in no uncertain terms that it is absolutely unacceptable for the edge of the oil pan to protrude past the block since it is a mating surface for the transmission bellhousing. I'm still a bit freaked out about having done this on my car since I didn't have an accurate machinists edge, hoping it's not gonna lead to something like this down the line. I'm curious what the more experienced LS-heads have to say about this..
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Update: He asked me if he could replace the motor with a good one. He said he honestly did not see the crack as it was covered in oil. :secret: He has 1 more LS2 motor in the shop and he will inspect it tomorow and will give me the option to replace or refund. When I deliver the broken motor , I will do a full inspection of the other one and not be over excited like the idiot I was. This still could very well be a costly leason. I stayed calm and was very polite in asking a refund, he responded in the same fashion. So I hope my patience pays off.
comments? Suggestion? Violent reactions? all welcomed.
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See if you can drop the pan and pull the valve covers before you take it home, and inspect everything... I wouldn't tear it down any further than that though, that is already pushing it. Look for obvious marks on the cylinder walls and any problems in the valve covers
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See if you can drop the pan and pull the valve covers before you take it home, and inspect everything... I wouldn't tear it down any further than that though, that is already pushing it. Look for obvious marks on the cylinder walls and any problems in the valve covers
Will do, but experience tells me I might just ask for the refund. Thank you
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I would either take the refund or go with what Plex said and pull valve covers/oil pan and have a look. That really will tell a lot about the health of the motor.
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I would either take the refund or go with what Plex said and pull valve covers/oil pan and have a look. That really will tell a lot about the health of the motor.
Will do, lets see what he comes up with. He hasnt exactly told me when to go there
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I would either take the refund or go with what Plex said and pull valve covers/oil pan and have a look. That really will tell a lot about the health of the motor.
Will do, lets see what he comes up with. He hasnt exactly told me when to go there
HE is no longer the one who calls the when and where. HE fucked YOU. YOU tell HIM when to do what.
YOU show up and tell him "Here's your busted piece of shit, my money or your ass, your choice".
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I would get my money back so fast. Don't take a new motor from him.
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Got my replacement motor, redoing rear frame and bushings now. I'm back on track, just in case anyone else gets the SuperPro kit this is the chart for it.
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So while I was waiting on my motor I had to move to a new house and was not able to work on the car for a month. Finally got some time and space for myself and started again, but what caused the crack in the previous motor had me thingking. So I did more research and found out there is a better starter for the LS motors, I'm not sure if this is the same starter that people are currently using or not, or if it will fit.
http://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-external-engine/1133504-part-numbers-98-ls1-starter-bolts-2.html (http://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-external-engine/1133504-part-numbers-98-ls1-starter-bolts-2.html)
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Hey Angry Bird :) Where did you move? You still in Torrance? I think my starter is getting ready to give up the ghost I may need to get one of these.
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Hey Angry Bird :) Where did you move? You still in Torrance? I think my starter is getting ready to give up the ghost I may need to get one of these.
I moved about 3 miles away I'm still in the area, I need to speed things up i feel like im slacking. I was pretty bummed after that incident.
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I'm still Alive!... after that long drawn incident and the big move to my new house I put most of the build on hold. I've recently got back on track and started the prep and clean up, and some new parts. And a good motor.
Parts:
ARP head bolts
Katech Connecting Rod Bolts
Fuel lines, fittings, pump, FPR
Tick Remote bleeder
Tick Skip Shift Delete Plug
Monster Stage 2 Clutch light weight flywheel
Remanufactured Rear calipers
PEZ PS lines
Improved Racing Baffle
Powerflex Differential and Strut Bushings
Upgraded T56 from NorCal Auto Group (gnx7) Amazing vendor!
And a steam cleaner
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Putting America back to work :halo:
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Home made pinch weld adapter
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Rear sub-frame dropped
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Rear Frame PC'd+bushing replaced, the Dif was hot tanked so its clean (plan to change the pillow balls with A-Rex soon)
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Dirty ass motor...fuck me
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Fuck me sideways :scratch:
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Cleaned
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Continued......
Rockers
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Some of those bushings were a bitch, my press.
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Work space. :(
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Oh and here is the skip shift delete plug, it's aluminum.
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That's it for now hopefully I'll pick up the momentum again and eventually finish. Thanks to everyone who helped. :wave:
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Finally picked up the pace, this was really rough for someone like me who's never done this before. But I'm really glad I did this. Anyways here are some updates.
Valves had surface rust so I cleaned, and lapped them
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yuck
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tools
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I eventually used a fine compound after, and they looked polished.
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Coated and reinstalled.
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Ported my TB, still need to polish it.
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Repainted my bay with the duplicolor paint shop
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Installed my monster clutch with a new pilot bearing.
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2 hours later got my transmission connected.
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Ready to go!
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Had to remove the load leveler about 80% through, it was hitting the firewall so I switched to chains.
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Finally got the mounts to align.
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Transmission mount, measured exactly 5 1/2 inch to the center of the shaft from the ceiling per Justin's instructions.
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Valve covers on, just to see what it'd look like.
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MGW short shift.
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Pic I promised Matt, one of the better quality items I have seen through this build.
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Dude I bow to your excellence! Amazing build so far keep up the good work and the attention to detail! Love the pics keep them coming.
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Awesome Bryan. Looking fabulous!!! Great attention to detail. You're gonna love it when it's done man. BTW, thanks for the Jeg's hat :yay: I'm gonna hit you up sometime for those camber bolts if you are willing to part with them :halo:
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Car looks sick Bryan 8)
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Thanks guys, nothing really special just a Frankenstein of everyone else's build. :)
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I saw this car in person today. The work that has gone into the engine bay and interior is amazing. Super clean shit. Makes me want to pull my motor just to paint the engine bay lol. Bryan, I owe you big time for the camber bolts, at least a couple lunches/dinners/beers/labor??? :cheers:
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Looking great Bryan. Getting the engine on the mounts is a wonderful feeling aint it :D
Lane
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I saw this car in person today. The work that has gone into the engine bay and interior is amazing. Super clean shit. Makes me want to pull my motor just to paint the engine bay lol. Bryan, I owe you big time for the camber bolts, at least a couple lunches/dinners/beers/labor??? :cheers:
lol np anything to help.
Looking great Bryan. Getting the engine on the mounts is a wonderful feeling aint it :D
It feels like the hard part is over and it's starting to plateau. A great feeling indeed. :)
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Updates?
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Slowly coming along. ::)
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.Dual speed Fans, AC, TNS, Horn
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.Separated my retra harness in case I want to go back to flip lights.
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Just finishing up the wiring, I have a lot more work to do and not enough time :(
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Slowly coming along. ::)
Just finishing up the wiring, I have a lot more work to do and not enough time :(
Love the engine bay.... so pretty. Those header look sick too ;) The fuse box is very nice, I'm thinking of stripping my front harness and doing the same thing, it looks 10x cleaner than mine. Keep at it dude, you're not that far off!!! Trust me when you get to drive the thing the first time you're gonna crap your pants :drive:
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(http://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=7458.0;attach=17842;image.)
Dual speed Fans, AC, TNS, Horn
You really think those mini relays will handle dual Spals?
(http://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=7458.0;attach=15735;image)
Is your TB blade sealed around the TB opening? I think you might have ported a little too much.
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I was going to say the same thing about the minis, I only use 'em on <20A loads. I didn't even notice the throttle body, good eye Greg.
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Dual speed Fans, AC, TNS, Horn
You really think those mini relays will handle dual Spals?
Is your TB blade sealed around the TB opening? I think you might have ported a little too much.
Yeah easily1X 35 amp relay for each 20 amp fan running in parallel.
Here is the before porting. I only smoothed out the edges I didn't actually go in to the blade area. The DBW throttle bodies rest at 10-15% open when turned off, once power is introduced it will close completely. I pressed and leveled the blade while I was working on this and it does completely close. Thanks for the 2nd look though, hey Greg can you get back to my PM regarding the AC lines. Thank you sir.
(http://image.highperformancepontiac.com/f/9163470/hppp_0712_15_z+LS2_intake_manifold_porting+throttle_body.jpg)
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Chinese relays are reliable to half their claimed value, sometimes.... Spal fans, especially the 11" ones included in Justin's kit draw a lot of amperage on startup. Cooling fan circuit on a performance car in southern California is not where I would put questionable components. Also, I've had those micro relays fail on the TNS circuit before.
I could be wrong on the TB, I was just asking.... But I'm not wrong on the relays.
Otherwise, great looking build.
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Chinese relays are reliable to half their claimed value, sometimes.... Spal fans, especially the 11" ones included in Justin's kit draw a lot of amperage on startup. Cooling fan circuit on a performance car in southern California is not where I would put questionable components. Also, I've had those micro relays fail on the TNS circuit before.
I could be wrong on the TB, I was just asking.... But I'm not wrong on the relays.
Otherwise, great looking build.
I always I appreciate your input, I have begun shopping around for US made micro relays. I ordered those from Waytek since that's all they had and I was already buying stuff from them.
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I usually use 2 of those boxes. One for fans, one for everything else.
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Really nice build! Sub'd to see it completed!
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Slowly coming along. ::)
Just finishing up the wiring, I have a lot more work to do and not enough time :(
Love the engine bay.... so pretty. Those header look sick too ;) The fuse box is very nice, I'm thinking of stripping my front harness and doing the same thing, it looks 10x cleaner than mine. Keep at it dude, you're not that far off!!! Trust me when you get to drive the thing the first time you're gonna crap your pants :drive:
Really nice build! Sub'd to see it completed!
Thanks guys, itching to drive it but I'm short on time.
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Sooo after a few long months and countless hours of wiring and reading the FSM my FD is alive!!! Thanks to everyone especially Lane and Blake on giving me a lot of tips early in the build. :drive: I only had 1 code which was the unplugged MAF. Merry fucking Christmas to my neighbors 4 houses down in every direction, Jesus that was loud.
FD LS2 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OYo_V7i9fMo&feature=youtu.be#)
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LOL, congrats!
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Excellent Dedication to your project. Really enjoyed reading your post. The gauges are spectacular.
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Congrats Bryan! Glad to hear it's running :)
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i just rea all 7 pages
reallly nice build :drive:
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That looks awesome Bryan! :cheers:
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Thanks guys, I thought I would never see this day. Got lots of pics but too busy atm to sort them out. Fuck Yeah! :bacon:
Here are the gauges, did the "ProjectD" setup. I was afraid of I would screw up doing it with the Halfspec fiberglass method. These damn cluster are so expensive. I put foam lining on the gaps of the smaller gauges not shown in the last picture. I had some left over when I was doing my HVAC.
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:popcorn:
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I've never seen that gauge cluster before. Is that from one of the later models of an FD?
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Really?
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? That's a stock gauge cluster with Speedhut gauges installed.
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Was able to get a hold of some eye candy! Thank you Steve! Good price and in excellent condition! :bacon: Just need to seal up some stuff so I can have it towed to Anthony's for the exhaust.
18x9 +43 255/35
18x10 +43 285/30
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Let me get you some GOP paraphernalia, since those offsets are CONSERVATIVE as f*ck lol. :cheers:
Nothing some 15mm spacers can't fix.
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Haha. Jeff, not everyone likes crazy camber. The fronts are dead nuts perfect and the rears need a 5mm spacer.
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I'm glad you're happy with the wheels.
You also bought the same gauges I want. lol.
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Let me get you some GOP paraphernalia, since those offsets are CONSERVATIVE as f*ck lol. :cheers:
Nothing some 15mm spacers can't fix.
LOL! I hear you but it was a deal I could not refuse.
(http://static.selfdeprecate.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/big-bird-escapes-romney.jpg)
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Sooo after a few long months and countless hours of wiring and reading the FSM my FD is alive!!! Thanks to everyone especially Lane and Blake on giving me a lot of tips early in the build. :drive: I only had 1 code which was the unplugged MAF. Merry fucking Christmas to my neighbors 4 houses down in every direction, Jesus that was loud.
Yo Bryan, sorry for getting back to you so late on seeing the vid... I've been really distracted with work and other things lately. But yeah bro, it's a huge accomplishment. Congrats brother. Just wait till you drive the thing... you'll shit ur pants. Nothing like 400 ft-lbs of torque in that little FD... I absolutely love driving mine ;) Keep us updated!!!!
:drive:
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Can't believe MDPalmer even has time to post, between all the surfing and other beach-related activities he's bound to be up to... Is it hard to type on the laptop when you're in your lounge chair out on that sweet deck facing the ocean? :cheers:
/threadjack
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Sooo after a few long months and countless hours of wiring and reading the FSM my FD is alive!!! Thanks to everyone especially Lane and Blake on giving me a lot of tips early in the build. :drive: I only had 1 code which was the unplugged MAF. Merry fucking Christmas to my neighbors 4 houses down in every direction, Jesus that was loud.
Yo Bryan, sorry for getting back to you so late on seeing the vid... I've been really distracted with work and other things lately. But yeah bro, it's a huge accomplishment. Congrats brother. Just wait till you drive the thing... you'll shit ur pants. Nothing like 400 ft-lbs of torque in that little FD... I absolutely love driving mine ;) Keep us updated!!!!
:drive:
Yeah I can't wait, I'm just sitting tight buttoning up while the exhaust parts come in.
Can't believe MDPalmer even has time to post, between all the surfing and other beach-related activities he's bound to be up to... Is it hard to type on the laptop when you're in your lounge chair out on that sweet deck facing the ocean? :cheers:
/threadjack
Who says it's not one of his grass skirt servants doing all the replying lol
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Nice job on the cluster. I'm glad I was able to provide a few useful tidbits for the community.
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lmfao, you guys crack me up! :yay: Have fun with the exhaust dude, I really really really want to re-do mine at some point.
Sooo after a few long months and countless hours of wiring and reading the FSM my FD is alive!!! Thanks to everyone especially Lane and Blake on giving me a lot of tips early in the build. :drive: I only had 1 code which was the unplugged MAF. Merry fucking Christmas to my neighbors 4 houses down in every direction, Jesus that was loud.
Yo Bryan, sorry for getting back to you so late on seeing the vid... I've been really distracted with work and other things lately. But yeah bro, it's a huge accomplishment. Congrats brother. Just wait till you drive the thing... you'll shit ur pants. Nothing like 400 ft-lbs of torque in that little FD... I absolutely love driving mine ;) Keep us updated!!!!
:drive:
Yeah I can't wait, I'm just sitting tight buttoning up while the exhaust parts come in.
Can't believe MDPalmer even has time to post, between all the surfing and other beach-related activities he's bound to be up to... Is it hard to type on the laptop when you're in your lounge chair out on that sweet deck facing the ocean? :cheers:
/threadjack
Who says it's not one of his grass skirt servants doing all the replying lol
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Dope cluster and I like the blue valve covers against the white bay !!!... How much did it cost to do your cluster?
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My new exhaust LOL on the music!
FD Exhaust (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i4HMBKKGD5c&feature=youtu.be#ws)
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nice man!!! I think the rotary blew sometime during 09, so it really has been about ~4 yrs since the car's moved on its own lol! congrats :)
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sounds very sexy!!! Lots of rumble with 3.5"..my computer speakers were cracking lol
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I owe 65imp some pics of his handy work, 10% low gloss black. And working on the HID convertion right now plus other small crap.
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Nice. Looking clean Bryan. I'm a big fan on 65Imp's powdercoating work.
Also like how you mounted those HID ballasts too ;)
Lane
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Also like how you mounted those HID ballasts too ;)
Lane
lol thanks!, I see what you did with there.... :P
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Good work Bryan. That exhaust video cracked me up. I know Anthony's driveway all too well. Even melted a spot on it using a grinder too long (shhhh, don't tell Nancy).
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Good work Bryan. That exhaust video cracked me up. I know that Anthony's driveway all too well. Even melted a spot on it using a grinder too long (shhhh, don't tell Nancy).
Thank you sir, I'll bring a sharpie and put your name on the melted spot next time I'm there lol.
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Well been a few months of chasing down the little things, at the last few steps! Now saving money for the paint job, Jesus that's probably the single most expensive part of this project. :( Thanks to Lane for the DIY AC. :halo:
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Is there any way to powder coat the radiator itself? It just looks kinda off with the aluminium and the black mated together
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Eastwood makes radiator paint in black that actually improves heat dissipation. Powdercoat is too thick.
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Looking good! I hear you on the paint job!
Lane
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Hey Bryan, Do you have enought drive time to comment on your power steering yet? I'm putting mine back together and debating whether I run the GTO bits I have or whether I jump up to a better pump. Does your setup including mounting brackets or do you need to source extra pieces? If you had a parts list for your system that would be perfect.
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Hey Bryan, Do you have enought drive time to comment on your power steering yet? I'm putting mine back together and debating whether I run the GTO bits I have or whether I jump up to a better pump. Does your setup including mounting brackets or do you need to source extra pieces? If you had a parts list for your system that would be perfect.
Pump included everything except the lines, I'm still waiting on my tags before I can test it. I sent you a PM.
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Engine bay looks great bud!! What color you going to spray?
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Engine bay looks great bud!! What color you going to spray?
thank you sir, Planning on aspen white. :) 5k :(
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Car is coming together nicely Bryan! :cheers:
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That thing sounds awesome dude.
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My new exhaust LOL on the music!
FD Exhaust (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i4HMBKKGD5c&feature=youtu.be#ws)
LOL on the music indeed! Holy crap it's LOUD! Anthony looks like he does great work... I really really want to re-do mine. Looking good Bryan, anything new to report?
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Looks really cool! I remember following your build last year. I haven't decided what to do with my radiator shroud yet...undecided on powder coating it or not.
Jealous of a few things for sure. You went the extra mile on a few things that I drew the line on. Really wish I had redone my front harness. Honestly with how much wiring schematic reading I've done I could tackle it now...
I also really dig the lizard skin. I did dynamat in some key areas since I had it lying around.
The gauges kick ass too!
And lastly...one piece meisters are about my favorite wheel ever. I am pretty jealous of the 2piece still haha
When are you going off to paint jail?
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Looks really cool! I remember following your build last year. I haven't decided what to do with my radiator shroud yet...undecided on powder coating it or not.
Jealous of a few things for sure. You went the extra mile on a few things that I drew the line on. Really wish I had redone my front harness. Honestly with how much wiring schematic reading I've done I could tackle it now...
I also really dig the lizard skin. I did dynamat in some key areas since I had it lying around.
The gauges kick ass too!
And lastly...one piece meisters are about my favorite wheel ever. I am pretty jealous of the 2piece still haha
When are you going off to paint jail?
Thanks dude, probably going to Makito since he's 1 mile down from me. He's recommended by shine.
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Makito does great work, he just can be slow sometimes. But its definitely worth the wait.
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I am very much liking this build. Pains me more to see such nice FD setups. I am seriously debating about getting one just to have the speedhut guage setup along with the samberg kit.... Very clean, sounds like abeast, keep up the good work.
-Shaun
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Car is finally tuned drove it 200 miles, man it feels great!
VID 20140110 110212 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0lixtOFyvrg#)
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What power steering pulley and reservoir can did you use? I like them a lot.
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What power steering pulley and reservoir can did you use? I like them a lot.
KRC
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Looking good Bryan! It's really coming together nicely. Can't wait to see it with paint.
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Pro tip - You can stand closer to your car when filming if you turn your phone horizontally :yay:
j/k
Nice numbers! Congrats Bryan.
Lane
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The hood dampers is what stood out most to me. Just bad ass! Lol
Congrats on getting it on the dyno.
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Looking good Bryan! It's really coming together nicely. Can't wait to see it with paint.
Spoke to Makito Yesterday, I have to wait until March for my turn :(
Pro tip - You can stand closer to your car when filming if you turn your phone horizontally :yay:
j/k
Nice numbers! Congrats Bryan.
Lane
LOL They did not allow me in the Pit, the owner looked at me and pointed at the sign as I was walking up. :( I initially tried a horizontal capture but it turned out to be worste, the camera on my phone sucks nuts. :(
The hood dampers is what stood out most to me. Just bad ass! Lol
Congrats on getting it on the dyno.
You have some crazy eagle vision, and thank you. :P
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They wouldn't let you closer to your own car while they dyno'd it? I would have been, eh, perturbed.
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They wouldn't let you closer to your own car while they dyno'd it? I would have been, eh, perturbed.
I'm going to assume one of two things.
1.) He doesnt trust me and had brand new parts lying around everywhere.
2.) CA liability for accidents in a hazardous area, or something to that effect. 95% of shops in CA wont let you in the work area.
I'm leaning more towards #1 since 2 other customers that came in later just waltz right in the pit. I saw their bill at the end of the day and it was 15-18k worth of mods+labor >:(
Edit:I forgot he could just hate V8 RX7's and their owners in general after what happened in Airstrip with Mark (Gnx7), since he was there.
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They wouldn't let you closer to your own car while they dyno'd it? I would have been, eh, perturbed.
I'm going to assume one of two things.
1.) He doesnt trust me and had brand new parts lying around everywhere.
2.) CA liability for accidents in a hazardous area, or something to that effect. 95% of shops in CA wont let you in the work area.
I'm leaning more towards #1 since 2 other customers that came in later just waltz right in the pit. I saw their bill at the end of the day and it was 15-18k worth of mods+labor >:(
Edit:I forgot he could just hate V8 RX7's and their owners in general after what happened in Airstrip with Mark (Gnx7), since he was there.
Hahaha, just to add fuel to the fire, I took this when my car was there... I was up/down working on stuff all over the place. He definitely razzed me a bit about Mike (it was Mike, not Mark, that put a beating on everyone) and the whole "4psi of boost" line, but whatevs.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-LBJ1z4_-jpc/UrKHFCCi8pI/AAAAAAAASQw/LoSHCEjiX-Q/w1268-h713-no/20131218_165315.jpg)
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Man you guys....I got the stink eye the entire time I was trying to get my car tuned. :poke: LOL
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Hey brotha! Been a while. Nice power curves you got there 8) You loving it yet or what???? I moved to HB, so I'm not in Torrance anymore. We should meet up again sometime. Great to see you enjoying the beast.
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:) Almost there!
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Ohhhhhhhhhh shiney!! :)
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Where's the money shots? :poke:
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Where's the money shots? :poke:
My bad haven't had time. I have to sort through the pics.
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A white, non-sunroof, LS swapped FD...nice!
Quite the transformation on this thing.
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Nice paint!
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Ugh, jealous of your white FD! Looking great man!
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Thanks guys, she's finally home, I'll try to get better pics later. I'm just doing little things here and there now. :cheers:
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If I ever change colors of mine, she'll be this beautiful white!
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White is so so very pleasing to the eyes on a FD. Looks great!
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Well I just finished reupholstering my seats. Cost me $300 and a few hours of work. The leather wrinkles will shrink over time if left under the sun, according to the upholstery shop.
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Nice looking! 300.00 not a bad deal at all!
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Looking good!
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Got my Ronin 8.8 in with a detroit trutrac lsd!! Also borrowed LargeOrangeFont's go kart catch can idea, mounted on the charcoal canister location with breather valve. :) And a new aluminum DS.
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Alignment. All i can say is, the car is driving great now having good ratio. After fixing the blocker ring and upgrading to this it feels really good. The trutrac is super quiet, still getting used to the turns. I have a squeaking sound coming from a pillow ball most likely. I'm going to clean them and spray some ptfe lube.
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more info on gocart catch can
Looking good!
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more info on gocart catch can
Looking good!
Thanks! Here are the parts, had to change the bottom fitting to a 90 deg elbow for clearance. You can see the difference in the 2 pics. I used a longer hose so I can lower the frame without yanking the can. The mount is a regular U Bolt from home depot, so was the aluminum L bracket.
Catch can: (shortest one I could find)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-Go-Kart-Cart-Racing-Motor-Oil-Overflow-Engine-Catch-Tank-Can-/252387432831?hash=item3ac376997f:g:YvcAAOxy4YdTRsqY&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-Go-Kart-Cart-Racing-Motor-Oil-Overflow-Engine-Catch-Tank-Can-/252387432831?hash=item3ac376997f:g:YvcAAOxy4YdTRsqY&vxp=mtr)
Breather: (Very tight fit on the rubber grommet)
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/DOE0/924262/06679.oap?year=1989&make=Toyota&model=Camry&vi=1272956&ck=Search_06679_1272956_-1&pt=06679&ppt=C0073 (http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/DOE0/924262/06679.oap?year=1989&make=Toyota&model=Camry&vi=1272956&ck=Search_06679_1272956_-1&pt=06679&ppt=C0073)