Thanks for the encouragement guys. I should have a batch of new pictures up tomorrow to show what I've been doing over the last month.
James.Smith: Yeah, I'll keep you in mind next time I'm going through Memphis. Any good tuners or exhaust fabricators up your way? I'm going to need a dyno and a good tuner once I get this thing on the road :)
Lane
wow that must have made a bang when it went off! lol
looks great. no exterior paint job lol
so is that the Greddy Evo exhaust for the standard FD? Is it full 3.5" after that little step down? Cost?
Nice. You might want to look into the muffler and make sure it doesn't get reduced down. I know there was an LS FD local to me who took off his 3.75" greddy catback that I think was made for a Supra because the piping diamter got knocked down to like 2.5" inside the muffler. Let me know what you find out. That may just be the solution I go for if it's straight through.
Well you peaked my interest so I grabbed my calipers and took a trip to my shop this morning:That would be "piqued" actually.
haha cool. Seems straight through besides that little step down. You have any video links on how it sounds on an FD? ( I assume 13b but still) I would like to get a smoother exhaust note than some of the LSX exhausts I've heard. I don't want the car confused with a truck just by the sound.
Looking great Lane.
My only criticism would be that the wiring may be a SOB to troubleshoot if anything ever happens in the extended area, with them all being the same color. Beyond that, the harness looks fan-freakin-tastic, very nice work.
why are you running your MIL to x14? ;)
Man-law
I've had the pleasure of having a new woman in my life over the last few weeks, which has been wonderful for me, but really shifted my priorities ;)
Looking good Lane! :)
Where'd you get that Delphi fuse/relay box if you don't mind sharing?
Wow, how did I miss this build thread. Very impressive!
My goodness! I thought I was in over my head with my build. This build is incredible. I have a notebook full of every little detail I want done to my car during the build process, but you just took it to a whole new level. If you ever want to make some extra money, I would be willing to pay for you to modify my cluster in the same fashion as yours. I do not posses the skills required to make something like that happen. I'm in love with this build, it just got favorited. Very, very, very nice work!
Makin me proud :yay:
One thing I would reconsider.
You've got the RETRA relay as a micro relay. I did that one time and had problems. The relay fried, which blew my headlight fuse, and then I was driving a black car, in the rain, at night, with no headlights....
Very nice. Can you give me some more info on that ground wire punch thing?
Sucks to hear about the issues getting it installed. Is there much play in that drivers side header if you loosen the bolts? Hope its not too difficult to get modified to fit.
I wouldn't think you could get them to break loose under any normal circumstances and they're certainly not made to come off. I just said "practically" because I'm sure there are people out there that could pull them off trying to use them as engine hoist straps or something ;)Wow wish I'd thought of this, I am using similar terminals but I soldered them on which was a huge PITA. Basically I'd flux my 1/0ga wire, stick it into the terminal, use my soldering iron to get a good thick bead of solder around the terminal edge, then hit it with my map gas torch until the solder was sucked in, and try to pull the torch before the wire sheath started to melt. The terminals at least seem pretty secure, I can't pull them off the wire...
I personally believe these terminals lock on tighter than any aftermarket screw on / non crimp style terminal available
I use a 5lb hand sledge and give it 3 or 4 good wacks. The hammer gives good feedback. You can tell when the crimp has stopped compressing :)
Lane
Wow wish I'd thought of this, I am using similar terminals but I soldered them on which was a huge PITA. Basically I'd flux my 1/0ga wire, stick it into the terminal, use my soldering iron to get a good thick bead of solder around the terminal edge, then hit it with my map gas torch until the solder was sucked in, and try to pull the torch before the wire sheath started to melt. The terminals at least seem pretty secure, I can't pull them off the wire...
I could repel from the terminals. ;)
I've had mild success with the spray-on sound dampers. I much prefer mass-loaded vinyl and then closed cell foam on top, but I'm curious what your impressions are about the Lizardskin.
My car is going to be completely stripped during my build after reading this.
Not gonna look at my pedals. NOT gonna do it!
Damnit Lane, now I notice that MY pedals are rusty...
damn you!!! now im gonna have to do this.. NOT HAPPY! :punch:
Awesome work Lane. You always take the extra time and effort, and that's why your build is great.
How did you run the power cable into the engine bay?
Might want to wrap the starter and selenoid. Probably more a "piece of mind" thing but the long tubes can put off enough radiant heat to kill selenoids fairly quick.
Thank you! Yes sir it does!!! I can see some light at the end of the tunnel :)
PS
Blake!!! You need to to add youtube embed support to your forum!!!
http://custom.simplemachines.org/mods/index.php?mod=977 (http://custom.simplemachines.org/mods/index.php?mod=977)
http://custom.simplemachines.org/mods/index.php?mod=936 (http://custom.simplemachines.org/mods/index.php?mod=936)
We've had that for a year. Just paste the link, not the embed script, not the funky you.tube crap. Just the normal link. Don't make it complicated. :P
LS1 RX7 Crank and Move (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DQyD_9rKf3I#ws)
See?
Thanks everyone!
@ thetastelingers - Yeah, the Momo Adpter + Standard NRG is making me wish I'd gone with the shorter version. Oh well :)
@ LNF_AJ - No worries, most of my stuff isn't really my ideas. It's just a combined recipe from the 100s if not 1000s of build threads I've looked at over the years :D
Cheers!
Lane
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_IYXkMMD2BJo/TNNb0BopP0I/AAAAAAAAAKk/e_6JKSXCopc/s1600/005_professor.png)
GOOD NEWS EVERYONE!
It's officially in the paint shop!
(http://www.halfspec.com/pictures/official2.jpg)
Great job sir, what color did you decide on?
BMWs honestly aren't that bad to work on. There is a big community for them. Nice car BTW.
Nice. You'll like the floor. I love mine. So easy to clean up. That Dinoc looks killer. I forget, is that adhesive backed? How much did you pay for the flyrx7 pod? Some prices I've seen are freaking crazy expensive for a gauge pod.
What's with all the little houses that look exactly the same across the street from the BMW?
i am getting ready to wrap my gauge cluster. I did the a/c, shifter console, and hood already. I have a feeling the cluster is going to suck.
Why did you make a seam in the headliner? I have recovered one with out a seam. I am getting ready to redo my current headliner with black alcantara.
Nice race logic, I'm about to finish up the install on ours, should be a nice setup for sure on yours!
I thought about the doorlocks too but I thought the Matte finish would stand out against all the other semi gloss black stuff on the outside. It might look nice though.
[attachimg=1]
Just an idea on placement of the Racelogic head unit. It rarely needs to be monitored so in a place where taking a glance at it works best IMO.
Plus having to put your hand through a smaller steering wheel, while driving, to turn and push the knob will get old. That and it glows green against amber gauges at night might get old as well.
Just my .02
Rich.
Actually I had a buddy who does custom stereo work make it for me. I'm sure he could make another if you need one. Let me know
Rich.
I think you will want the rear bumper pulled off or you will "bond" the rear bumper to the body and you could end up with a paint cracking at that seam down the line. Or if you ever have to take the bumper off it could be a problem.
This project isn't completely dead... I've had a lot going on. I got engaged right after Christmas, so I've been busy with prepping/paying for that. Thankfully its a pretty simple deal since we're doing a weddingmoon in Jamaica at Sandals resort with only our parents attending. I just have to pay for it :P
I don't think they are sanding lines. If they were, you would see more intersecting lines. Most of those lines don't appear to even touch, except for the one that forms a Mercedes emblem (3 lines with a central starting point).
It reminds me a lot of a thin layer of ice that has been fractured by the wake of a passing barge. That makes me think that the paint shrunk more than the clear during the baking process. Can you feel these lines by hand? Do they create peaks or valleys?
I'm interested to see what the painter finds.
This project isn't completely dead... I've had a lot going on. I got engaged right after Christmas, so I've been busy with prepping/paying for that. Thankfully its a pretty simple deal since we're doing a weddingmoon in Jamaica at Sandals resort with only our parents attending. I just have to pay for it :P
You got that right... You'll be paying for that for the rest of your life. :D
is it solvent paint ? if so back in the day if they didnt catalyze dark colors or black you'd get that in the paint after it cured and when it became very humid and hot
(http://www.halfspec.com/pictures/f69e329c.jpg)
Whatwhat?
Thanks for the complements guys.
I'm sure a lot of your questions will be answered when I post pics of the completed lines.
As far as posting source info, I'm on the fence with that. I've invested a lot of time and therefore money in putting this list of parts together and negotiating the fabrication of one custom fitting. I'm totally an open-source full disclosure kinda guy, but I'm considering manufacturing lines that include a dryer, and maybe GM pressure switch for ~ $350 which would undercut most options out there by $100.
I'll keep y'all posted.
Please do a detailed write up on this.
Very nice, which alarm did you get? :P
Damn it, get that ground strap off the strut tower. there are plenty of places to put it (maybe not as accessible, lol) that are out of sight.
I'm getting married this Friday, so wrapping up the car is really becoming a huge priority now.
Good fabbing!
That circle dot between your fittings on the accumilator should be a piece of tape that was painted over. Under it probably is a window to view any bubbles in your gas.
Did you use the primer94 from 3M, the adhesion promoter, on the pieces before wrapping them?
I just spent about 3 hrs reading this whole thread from start to finish, I'm at a loss for words in how well you documented this along with the patience and effort. SICK!!!
What an amazing and inspiring build. I literally just read the whole thing from start to finish. I really like your gauge light setup and wish I had the skills to do that. I would actually pay someone to do that to my gauges. Thread has been added to my favorites.
What an amazing and inspiring build. I literally just read the whole thing from start to finish. I really like your gauge light setup and wish I had the skills to do that. I would actually pay someone to do that to my gauges. Thread has been added to my favorites.
Thanks! We actually have a forum vender that is putting together a service to do it for people. It's not exactly how I do it in this thread, but the result is pretty much the same. Check it out:
http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=12610.0 (http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=12610.0)
Lane
What an amazing and inspiring build. I literally just read the whole thing from start to finish. I really like your gauge light setup and wish I had the skills to do that. I would actually pay someone to do that to my gauges. Thread has been added to my favorites.
Thanks! We actually have a forum vender that is putting together a service to do it for people. It's not exactly how I do it in this thread, but the result is pretty much the same. Check it out:
http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=12610.0 (http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=12610.0)
Lane
I was like, hey, someone else is doing Speedhut clusters?!
Then I was like, :yay:
Thanks Lane. So this thing is 'done'? Runs good, looks good, and has functional A/C?
I just found the forums today and I have to say to all of the automotive forums I belong to, this one has the most attention to detail in its builds. You got a heck of a project here Lane and I'm looking forward to seeing it completed. Great job.
:cheers:
What weather stripping did you use from McMaster?
This? http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-foam-tape/=ivl4fa (http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-foam-tape/=ivl4fa)
It seems we are somewhat neighbors....I find myself in Starkville several times a year. I'd love to see this thing!!! Let me know if you need help in the paint department. I've been painting for over 15 years.
Looks good, I like the molex connectors on the Racelogic LCD, haha.
Sorry to hear about the job. :(
Eh, I don't see the issue with the molex. As long as you are't exceeding the voltage rating they're pretty reasonable connectors. Shoot, I have molex connectors all over in servers that cost more than an F1 car, and they have a TON of vibration. If that is the major concern, do what the server guys do and put a dot of hot glue on the connection to keep it secure.
Great news on the job, and I'm afraid to look at the receipts haha.
I have driven cars that needed 15% fuel correction before and the closed-loop feedback should take care of that... I know you were trying to get a tune on this thing and probably had it in open-loop but have you tried closed-loop o2 feedback?
No, the maf never gets turned off. The maf MAKES the VE table by itself after it is calibrated.
No, the maf never gets turned off. The maf MAKES the VE table by itself after it is calibrated.
You'll have to explain how setting up MAF frequency sets a VE table, or why you would want to ignore a big part of what the ECU uses for fueling.
Discussion for another time though, I don't want to go too off topic in this thread.
My point was, if you're close, why not turn o2 feedback back on (closed loop) and the MAF and drive it until you can troubleshoot more ~ I was just saying that in the interim, I wouldn't just make it sit.
Wow i like that carpet where did you get it from if you don't mind me asking? Also on the tuning subject i was curious to everyones feeling of using the LS1tuning guide method. > http://ls1tuningguide.com/tuningmanuals/SD%20VE%20and%20MAF%20Tuning%20Instructions%20rev3.pdf (http://ls1tuningguide.com/tuningmanuals/SD%20VE%20and%20MAF%20Tuning%20Instructions%20rev3.pdf) I love how your car is turning out by the way.
I am pleased to announce that I will be re-entering the job market after a 3 month hiatus and starting work at a local company here in Starkville on 01-21-13.
Maybe I'll be able to straighten out some of these nagging problems and get my car back to the paint shop one I get myself back on my feet financially :)
Lane
I am pleased to announce that I will be re-entering the job market after a 3 month hiatus and starting work at a local company here in Starkville on 01-21-13.
Maybe I'll be able to straighten out some of these nagging problems and get my car back to the paint shop one I get myself back on my feet financially :)
Lane
Does your paint still have the lines in it?
I am pleased to announce that I will be re-entering the job market after a 3 month hiatus and starting work at a local company here in Starkville on 01-21-13.
Maybe I'll be able to straighten out some of these nagging problems and get my car back to the paint shop one I get myself back on my feet financially :)
Lane
Does your paint still have the lines in it?
Yessir. It still looks like sh!t :yay:
Lane
I sent you the lasered fuse box decals, I hope it's what you wanted. I sent two different colors for you too, so you can decide which one you want.
Joel
Not sure if I missed it or not but what are the gauges reading? Everything looks great, the interior looks like a new car with a window sticker of $80k+
Whoops sorry about that. I meant the 4 new ones recently added on the dash. All I can make out is that the 3rd gauge might be volts...
Also going back through the thread, I noticed that your front brake rotors may be flipped. Not sure if you already noticed this or someone else already said something.
Just got done reading from page 10 to the end[I started there because my friend sent me the link saying "I love all the small details on this car..."]
Love all the little details that was put into this car. But you had my head scratching couple of time on why and how you thought to use the items[the Nissan radio block plate, and GM floor mat holder] you used, let alone search for them, LOL.
I'd have to say though...the AC on this car is my favorite as that's one of the last piece that I have no idea how to tackle.
little late, but congrats on the house, getting married, and new career path. [better late then never right?]
Haha! Yeah, I'm hoping the check valve remedies that problem. I got it off eBay:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270812025164 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270812025164)
Lane
Haha! Yeah, I'm hoping the check valve remedies that problem. I got it off eBay:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270812025164 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270812025164)
Lane
Which size did you order?
Having a bit of a soft pedal still after power bleeding my brakes, hopefully this will help.
Lane, just add some inline bullet mufflers. You will be astounded at the difference it makes. :)
when your done with your car wanna finish mine>??
Going with a stage 2 rebuild? That's about all you need from what I remember unless you plan on going 4 digit HP numbers... Hope yours doesn't need too much work, good luck.
My .02.
Don't do it yourself. I know you are as anal about stuff as I am, and you'll never be happy with a first attempt at a gloss paint job.
Vinyl wrap it yourself? A friend of mine did that and is happy with the result, although his is flatblack and not a gloss finish. Just a thought you can consider.
Don't do 2 or 4. As Blake said I painted my car myself as well and you will never get it exactly how you want it. Especially if you're a perfectionist. You also have to be patient with most body shops. I know it sucks, but they're more worried about production work versus "restoration" work. 1 or 3 are good options the way I see it is 1 you want a good looking car but will have to wait for exhaust and a tune so it's going to sit anyway. Or the other you can enjoy and drive your car at the expense of redoing your paint in the future. If you're like me you will end up getting it painted at some point.
will you still do ac wiring for ls3?
Just extend what you already have.
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g219/fewskillz/Rx7-Limo.jpg)
You could do it if you got that TIG ;)
Well, you definately inspired the junior members and left this place better than before your build. Thanks.
Have fun in your new Cts-V wagon.
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Over the last 3 months I've left my car parked in my garage while I worked on an array of other projects. In-between projects I had time to think and re-plan how I want the next 5 years to go and have decided to put off some financial goals in return for keeping my car. I've officially closed my for-sale ad and should have some progress in the next month or so. I'm really going to try and focus on getting the car painted, having a exhaust built, and getting it tuned. If I can get over those three humps I think it will be downhill from there.
Excited to get back in the fray again :drive:
Lane
Lane,
I'm the guy on Supraforums that just removed your thread (as per your request over there). I was compelled to read a bit more about your car so came over to read your build thread...and HOLY CRAP am I glad you did. It was like a small emotional roller coaster to read through all 30 pages of it to see the ups and downs of this build and the COLOSSAL amount of quality and execution you put into this car. It was like a movie when I got to the part where you made the decision to sell it, and I'm so happy that you were able to justify holding on to the car. This is timeless, and worth so much more than your asking price. Trust me when I say I'm critical when it comes to asking prices for modified cars, but seeing what you did here was obviously you were literally giving away the car!
Guys like you are who inspire me most as a life-long car enthusiast. I'm no mechanical or electrical engineer, and nearly anything you did would scare me off, but I really respect what you do and how you inspire others in your community and beyond. So, I came over here to norotors.com and registered just to tell you what a freaking phenomenal job you did. Hats off to you! :cheers:
:drive:
Lane,
I'm the guy on Supraforums that just removed your thread (as per your request over there). I was compelled to read a bit more about your car so came over to read your build thread...and HOLY CRAP am I glad you did. It was like a small emotional roller coaster to read through all 30 pages of it to see the ups and downs of this build and the COLOSSAL amount of quality and execution you put into this car. It was like a movie when I got to the part where you made the decision to sell it, and I'm so happy that you were able to justify holding on to the car. This is timeless, and worth so much more than your asking price. Trust me when I say I'm critical when it comes to asking prices for modified cars, but seeing what you did here was obviously you were literally giving away the car!
Guys like you are who inspire me most as a life-long car enthusiast. I'm no mechanical or electrical engineer, and nearly anything you did would scare me off, but I really respect what you do and how you inspire others in your community and beyond. So, I came over here to norotors.com and registered just to tell you what a freaking phenomenal job you did. Hats off to you! :cheers:
:drive:
Lane,
I'm the guy on Supraforums that just removed your thread (as per your request over there). I was compelled to read a bit more about your car so came over to read your build thread...and HOLY CRAP am I glad you did. It was like a small emotional roller coaster to read through all 30 pages of it to see the ups and downs of this build and the COLOSSAL amount of quality and execution you put into this car. It was like a movie when I got to the part where you made the decision to sell it, and I'm so happy that you were able to justify holding on to the car. This is timeless, and worth so much more than your asking price. Trust me when I say I'm critical when it comes to asking prices for modified cars, but seeing what you did here was obviously you were literally giving away the car!
Guys like you are who inspire me most as a life-long car enthusiast. I'm no mechanical or engineer, and nearly anything you did would scare me off, but I really respect what you do and how you inspire others in your community and beyond. So, I came over here to norotors.com and registered just to tell you what a freaking phenomenal job you did. Hats off to you! :cheers:
:drive:
Now that you got your drama in, head over to spacevomits build thread for a good laugh! :D
Very happy to hear your keeping the car.
This too pleases me. Badass dude! Now we must meet up. Cruise the coast?
Thanks again guysThis too pleases me. Badass dude! Now we must meet up. Cruise the coast?
Sorry I missed this. I've never been to a serious meetup / cruise other than a mr2oc event in Birmingham like 12 years ago I think ;)
I guess I shy away thinking I'll do it after I'm done with the car. Hopefully this can happen soon though. I'd love to make SNS one year and hopefully I can do things like Cruise the Coast.
Lane
Thanks again guysThis too pleases me. Badass dude! Now we must meet up. Cruise the coast?
Sorry I missed this. I've never been to a serious meetup / cruise other than a mr2oc event in Birmingham like 12 years ago I think ;)
I guess I shy away thinking I'll do it after I'm done with the car. Hopefully this can happen soon though. I'd love to make SNS one year and hopefully I can do things like Cruise the Coast.
Lane
Thanks Josh that means a lot.
All of us are happy to have you here. I've given our mutal friend Mike several e-pats on the back
over the last few months for your aquisition. I even got a sneak peak of your first ride in his LS3 FD ~1/2 a year ago ;)
I really am looking forward to seeing how your build turns out. Your attention to detail and nack for good documentation is rare for any builder and is a skill that will definitely serve you well in life.
Looking forward to meeting you as well. You'll be the second board member that's actually laid eyes on me as I don't get out of MS that often. I'll do my best to have the FD driveable when we get the exhaust delivery setup.
Lane
I'm 42 so I easily remember "Short Circuit" lol
Car looks good already. It's going to look like a full Resto when its done!
Got any pics of your old MR2? I had a 93 turbo for about 10 years around that timeframe, and even went to a birmingham meet or 2! Small world.
I know you've read it 100 times, but your build is 100% top notch. you could never pay someone and get that quality work, let alone what it would cost you! your decision to keep the car is the right one.
Dan
Very nice Lane. I don't remember your car at birmingham, but that's not a surprise given the size of those events!
I drove down a couple years in a row with my turquoise pearl 93T, which went through stages of builds, culminating in a stand-alone, t3/t4, built bottom, etc. with about 350 at the tire. That's where i learned my lesson on modified car reliability!
Getting on a plane to see my new rx7 tonight, then 900 miles home. going to be fun!
Jim gave me a ride in that beast one year, it was very impressive! i remember the power, but mostly i remember how it had no squeak or rattle, and looked like he had bought it brand new the day before. it was perfect.
that was before the TMIC setup and wrx scoop on the trunk...
do you remember seeing a red SC MKI with a 3sgte? you would have known if you had been at the track. he's local to me, good friend. still has the car, which is one of the scariest cars i've ever driven.
anyway, thanks! I'm looking forward to the trip.
Dan
Thanks for the pic.
Congrats Lane! Little girls are awesome. Now you get to pick up all the car related books to read to her.
Two of my favorites: Little Blue Truck, and The Little Red Racing Car. Similar title, two completely different books.
Do you need any little girl clothes? We finally make the call that we're done at 2 of them.
Wow, what a freaking mess.
One question- Why didn't you get it media blasted?
This is a good lesson to all, you don't wnat to keep adding layers of paint..
Am I the only one that is impressed a paint guy:
Hey guys, I'm John... the painter. I'll be glad to answer any questions to the best of my knowledge.
I'll try to post the pic my "boo" wearing the mask next time. :p.
Also, I grew up with a guy that started a mobile media blasting company and I had him look at the car for a quote. There is a few issues I have with media blasting and painting. 1. You are blasting crushed glass into everyour part of the car like it or not. That crushed glass won't show back up till its time to paint and it ends up in the paint.2. It's a huge mess, bigger than what I'm dealing with now, but yes it will get it down to bare metal. 3. The car still has to be sanded afterwards for me to be comfortable with it.4. It's not just crushed glass in most cases there is some chemical added for rust prevention. This chemical has to be removed as it doesn't agree with most paints, if you sand it without neutralizing the chemical you just push the chemicals into the the metal, embedding it into the metal to come out on a hot day and cause the paint to peel. 5. Not all pieces can be media blasted.6. Blasting the car with crushed media builds alot of heat in the panels and you risk creating waves or warpage all over the car that I would then have to sort out.... all of this is lessons I've learned from experience. I call them "bought lessons". My blasting buddy assured me it was easy to neutralize and get paint to stick. However it's not something I want to risk on this car or anyone's car for that matter unless I've tried it and seen the proof. I've seen too many cars peel for that very reason. Imo it just wasn't worth the risk or the mess for that matter. Alot of shops will have cars blasted and I'm sure have a formula or order of operations to insure no problems. To me it's just more risk. For the price and time it takes to sand it all off it isn't much different and I will see any and all problems in the metal or paint as I remove it...
Hopefully that all makes sense.
I hear ya with the media blasting. The PO on my car had it media blasted, and to this day I am finding whitish powder everywhere. Also with the quick paint job ( I assume I have no real idea about painting) there is BIG cracking in the paint. In the door jams on the fiberglass front clip and some flaking in some hard to reach places like behind the hood in front of the windshield.
What does work of this level cost? The attention to detail cannot come cheap :chug:
The fender was actually dropped by my Dad the day we trucked the rx7 down to Jackson :( I saw it happen through my garage window. Something between the truck and the trailer snagged his pants and he went down harder than any flimsy fender deserves haha. It ended up scraping the paint down to the metal in some spots and I expect it was slightly deformed, but John got it looking amazing despite the drop and previous shoddy work.
Lane
And someone told me your dad muttered something about scratching his his car with your bike handlebar when you were 9 and that now you were even.
Looking good... This makes me want to repaint my car soooo bad... but then it would be perfect which doesn't really work well with track events. The first chip/ding would make me mad...
Also, love your progress updates. I am so bad at that.
Looking good... This makes me want to repaint my car soooo bad... but then it would be perfect which doesn't really work well with track events. The first chip/ding would make me mad...
Also, love your progress updates. I am so bad at that.
Yep.. That is why im very hesitant to paint mine.. it is just going to get destroyed.
Looking good... This makes me want to repaint my car soooo bad... but then it would be perfect which doesn't really work well with track events. The first chip/ding would make me mad...
Also, love your progress updates. I am so bad at that.
Yep.. That is why im very hesitant to paint mine.. it is just going to get destroyed.
Clear bra it. And start leading the pack. Problem solved
Looking good... This makes me want to repaint my car soooo bad... but then it would be perfect which doesn't really work well with track events. The first chip/ding would make me mad...
Also, love your progress updates. I am so bad at that.
Yep.. That is why im very hesitant to paint mine.. it is just going to get destroyed.
Clear bra it. And start leading the pack. Problem solved
http://www.amazon.com/3M-90000-Paint-Defender-Spray/dp/B00BSKYM82 (http://www.amazon.com/3M-90000-Paint-Defender-Spray/dp/B00BSKYM82)
http://www.amazon.com/3M-90201-Paint-Defender-Trigger/dp/B00BHH1QT4/ref=pd_sim_auto_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=1F22ZGEASFSEHE9DRW20 (http://www.amazon.com/3M-90201-Paint-Defender-Trigger/dp/B00BHH1QT4/ref=pd_sim_auto_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=1F22ZGEASFSEHE9DRW20)
updates please!!
Interested in the plastics. Getting OEM plastics is getting hard to find so I been researching how I could finish and repair them. Not a lot of options out there. I did make a custom snowmobile where I had the plastics hydrodipped and it looks killer been thinking about that for the rear bins and possibly doors.
They do a carbon fiber pattern that looks great on flat anything with a lot of curves it distorts a little bit.
Might have missed it, what color are you going with?
Zak
Shave the antenna and get an aftermarket one.
I think I have one, lemme look around.
Hey Lane,
Have you thought about doing a pearl to go with the Black? My only thought on repainting cars is that if you stick with purely OEM colors it looks nice but no one knows the effort that went into it.
-Joel
black is ∞ better then the other colors [∴ Black > All Colors]
i thought that was white, black is the absence of color. It cann't be measured there for it is infinite, all other colors can be measured therefor black is ∞ better then the other colors
Mixing light is not the same as mixing pigments, kids. Pigments absorb all colors except what you see, light is the opposite.
Just made some more progress... updates are coming. Just fair warning :p
really looking forward to what you have got planned for the antenna. hints please!
I am sure this paint job is costing you an arm and a leg, but the prep work will really pay off in the end, i bet you are eager to see some color on there!
I am sure this paint job is costing you an arm and a leg, but the prep work will really pay off in the end, i bet you are eager to see some color on there!
Actually, John's rates are unbelievably good. If anyone is considering getting a paint job in the future, I'd suggest running it by him first. It may just be worth the hassle to get it to Mississippi :yay:
Lane
Suprised at the rust on the sun roof, what do you think caused that?
I am pretty sure that lane is just luring us in and won't let us see the final results unless we send him money. If not, he should be!!!
I do not envy you on stripping those. I did the binnacle on Nick's car, what a PITA. I still need to do the rest of it to redo with texture finish. Ugh.
Going gloss black on those?
I'm amazed at how much damage and subpar work can be done to a seemingly decent car. I know you bought your car as a roller, so clearly a series of bad things and neglect happened to it before you took possession, but did you have any idea or suspect to see all the stuff John is finding (layers of paint, rust, etc)? Has he found any evidence it has been in an accident?
I'm amazed at how much damage and subpar work can be done to a seemingly decent car. I know you bought your car as a roller, so clearly a series of bad things and neglect happened to it before you took possession, but did you have any idea or suspect to see all the stuff John is finding (layers of paint, rust, etc)? Has he found any evidence it has been in an accident?
Actually, I haven't really been surprised by the amount of problems John's uncovered; at least not on a 21 year old car. I think people may be mistaking the thorough job (remember, we're going the extra mile to make the black paint as flawless as possible), documentation, and the 150+ pictures for a huge job that's only due to a ratty roller or whatnot. I chalk up the multiple layers of paint (apart from the failure that happened under my ownership) to MB being a hard color to maintain paired with Mazda's early primer adhesion problems I've heard about in the past. The rust is most likely making its appearance due to John's thoroughness. I think this is something most shops might fix but wouldn't mention, at least not in detail. I expect most people that have had glass replaced in their cars over the years have had their base coats scratched around the window shelf with the technician's tools which starts surface rust.
Actually, the only 2 things we've come across that would indicate some PO monkeying is the rear bumper which could be as simple as someone backing into a trailer hitch and the passenger side fender which John had to work with and he ended up saying he wasn't sure if it was original or not. I actually removed the bumper and I was surprised to hear it wasn't original because all of the original hardware was used to bolt it on, the collision foam was in perfect shape, and I did not see any signs of repair anywhere under the skin.
Its an interesting topic though. I'll have to see if John will weigh in to give his thoughts on the job, maybe down the road. It would be fun to get his uncensored thoughts on the condition of the car starting out :cheers:
Lane
I do not envy you on stripping those. I did the binnacle on Nick's car, what a PITA. I still need to do the rest of it to redo with texture finish. Ugh.They are SUPER easy to strip!!! And you are going to be pissed I told you this now.... lacquer thinner! You can either wipe it on and kinda wipe the finish off or you can soak a towel and wrap it in it and let the fumes work. No damage to the plastic. You can use denatured alcohol as well but lacquer thinner is a TON easier.
Going gloss black on those?
So what are you going to do with this piece of art? I think that you are passing the line from a really nice looking car to a true classic/ trailer queen.
They are SUPER easy to strip!!! And you are going to be pissed I told you this now.... lacquer thinner! You can either wipe it on and kinda wipe the finish off or you can soak a towel and wrap it in it and let the fumes work. No damage to the plastic. You can use denatured alcohol as well but lacquer thinner is a TON easier.
So what are you going to do with this piece of art? I think that you are passing the line from a really nice looking car to a true classic/ trailer queen.
Thanks! Drive it of course! This car was built from the ground up to be a daily driver. I'll just have to deal with the parking lot dings and the handlebar scratches from my future children grazing dad's car with their bikes ;)
Actually, I'll be daily driving it but it'll mostly sit in my business and gym parking lots when its stationary which are pretty private and secure. It probably won't see a lot of traffic at the local grocery stores. As for the kids, I'm hoping that in the next 5 years I can afford to build a shop so it'll have it's own little home away from the heavy kid traffic.
I'll also be well insured. But yeah, daily driven.They are SUPER easy to strip!!! And you are going to be pissed I told you this now.... lacquer thinner! You can either wipe it on and kinda wipe the finish off or you can soak a towel and wrap it in it and let the fumes work. No damage to the plastic. You can use denatured alcohol as well but lacquer thinner is a TON easier.
Nope. Not pissed at all, because I tried everything I could think of. IPA, mineral spirits, paint thinner, lacquer thinner, gasoline, acetone, and even one of the most serious solvents I have on tap, POR 15 reducer/solvent (this stuff will burn your skin off). Acetone worked the best and it was still a pain in the ass. Part of my job at my last business was developing solvent and acid strips for semiconductor fabrication so I always to a pretty thorough job running through my options to see what works best before I settle on something as it can be a MAJOR time saver.
I will say I had a serious arrangement of panels in different conditions. I noticed that the oldest, sunbaked, and stickiest panels were much easier to strip, whereas the stuff that was in excellent to brand new condition was much harder. I actually had one panel that was brand new from the factory and none of my solvents had any effect on it except to 'fur' it. In addition, John thinks my gauge cluster and hood were stripped and coated with something else in the past as they had some type of white primer on them. I couldn't tell as it looked factory perfect to me. It's possible this stuff was a mix from different manufacturing plants with different processes, but it sure made things complicated and a PITA :D
Lane
So what are you going to do with this piece of art? I think that you are passing the line from a really nice looking car to a true classic/ trailer queen.
Thanks! Drive it of course! This car was built from the ground up to be a daily driver. I'll just have to deal with the parking lot dings and the handlebar scratches from my future children grazing dad's car with their bikes ;)
Actually, I'll be daily driving it but it'll mostly sit in my business and gym parking lots when its stationary which are pretty private and secure. It probably won't see a lot of traffic at the local grocery stores. As for the kids, I'm hoping that in the next 5 years I can afford to build a shop so it'll have it's own little home away from the heavy kid traffic.
I'll also be well insured. But yeah, daily driven.They are SUPER easy to strip!!! And you are going to be pissed I told you this now.... lacquer thinner! You can either wipe it on and kinda wipe the finish off or you can soak a towel and wrap it in it and let the fumes work. No damage to the plastic. You can use denatured alcohol as well but lacquer thinner is a TON easier.
Nope. Not pissed at all, because I tried everything I could think of. IPA, mineral spirits, paint thinner, lacquer thinner, gasoline, acetone, and even one of the most serious solvents I have on tap, POR 15 reducer/solvent (this stuff will burn your skin off). Acetone worked the best and it was still a pain in the ass. Part of my job at my last business was developing solvent and acid strips for semiconductor fabrication so I always to a pretty thorough job running through my options to see what works best before I settle on something as it can be a MAJOR time saver.
I will say I had a serious arrangement of panels in different conditions. I noticed that the oldest, sunbaked, and stickiest panels were much easier to strip, whereas the stuff that was in excellent to brand new condition was much harder. I actually had one panel that was brand new from the factory and none of my solvents had any effect on it except to 'fur' it. In addition, John thinks my gauge cluster and hood were stripped and coated with something else in the past as they had some type of white primer on them. I couldn't tell as it looked factory perfect to me. It's possible this stuff was a mix from different manufacturing plants with different processes, but it sure made things complicated and a PITA :D
Lane
Cmon guys let's stop all this talk of scratches and dents... it's too early to speak like that. Haha
Did you ever try methylene chloride? That would likely be the most polar solvent you could buy easily. Its commonly found in carb cleaners and I've seen it as 80-90% in heavy duty paint strippers.
Its much more toxic than acetone so I'm not sure if the benefits outweigh the risks.
^+1 to that!....
Black is so epic when done to this level.
I do not envy you on stripping those. I did the binnacle on Nick's car, what a PITA. I still need to do the rest of it to redo with texture finish. Ugh.They are SUPER easy to strip!!! And you are going to be pissed I told you this now.... lacquer thinner! You can either wipe it on and kinda wipe the finish off or you can soak a towel and wrap it in it and let the fumes work. No damage to the plastic. You can use denatured alcohol as well but lacquer thinner is a TON easier.
Going gloss black on those?
The only thing that concerns me is that it's all areosol based and I have yet to find an aerosol based paint/coating that can stand up to a beating that a 2 part paint/coating can take. I'm really focusing on durability so I'm going to see what's available as a 2 part coating and if I can't find what I'm looking for I'll step back into aerosols.
I also had good success with the eastwood 2k aerosol clear coat. They make a 2k aerosol matte black that may be a good option to get you the 2 part coating you are seeking.
Getting closer!! Lookin great bro!! :)
Awesome. Is he going to be running any sort of paint special for when he opens up? :D
Mind PM'ing me a rough estimate of what it would cost to work with him for an FD?
Mississippi is closer to me than the other side of Texas, so it isn't that crazy to drive there. I've been toying with the idea of just doing a plasti-dip thing myself(either a matte white or a gloss white), or actually getting it pro painted. Looking for some options.
Congrats to John and can't wait to see the final product.
Thumbed through the majority of your thread earlier today at work. Just finished reading the last several pages. I am floored. The attention to detail is incredible.
It has served as serious motivation for me. Not in the way that I now want to build a show quality car that appears to have came factory with an LS series motor (quite the opposite really, throwing together a V8 FC that I'll probably crash into one of my friends at a local drift event), but in seeing that even the most dedicated get overwhelmed and frustrated and that that's okay.
Very excited to see this all come together. Seriously, outstanding work.
Also, I didn't realize Short Circuit is as old of a movie as it is. It came out four years before I was born, but I had still watched it numerous times as a little one. :D
Hoping to have some new pics to post in a week or two :)
Is it still going to be black?
Jesus H, never seen black shine like that!
Hey sorry to bring back an old detail. ...but on your LC clutch MC did you have to use more that 2 crush washers on the banjo fitting? Did it bottom out before getting tight?
Ugh that's a kick in the balls, 977 instead of 997!!!!
With that fancy paint, you are going to need a few of these. I picked up a set after my car was painted and they are down right invaluable.
http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/ultra+soft+fender+cover.do (http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/ultra+soft+fender+cover.do)
6 months? Wow, I think I waited maybe two weeks based on what the bodyshop and the clear-bra guy told me. Never had an issue with it and it looked great until it's demise and heck the bra even mostly protected the paint during that too! Well worth the money and I agree with the driving part completely - enjoy this car as often as possible! YOLO!
Good update, Are you planning on doing more with the red stitched leather?
Just went through your whole build thread. Awesome job! Love the detail put into everything. Exactly what I'm going to do.
Speaking of... no dyno tune as of yet, correct? Any idea where you will take it? Lethal Racing is a few hours West of me. I have considered giving them a go for my high end stuff.
Any suggestions by anyone will of course be appreciated and considered. Frankly at this point I'm not ruling out any distance as long as I can get the service I need.
Lane
Sorry Blake.
Wow. All this anticipation and that's it. I was at least expectating some tits in the reflection.
Looks fantastic bro. I assume he will be color sanding before buffing?
Looks fantastic bro. I assume he will be color sanding before buffing?
Of course 8)
Lane
I'd be careful with all the V bands under the car for the resonator options. They can very easily catch on things when they are in the middle of the car like that. If that resonator fits under the car without compromising ground clearance I'd weld it in and leave it. It is going to sound better with all of your tailpipe options if it fits.Like usual, I agree. There is no reason to take the resonator out, it won't effect performace.
What're you doing for hangars?
The biggest reason is that the splayed Y let's me get closer to the t56 outlet. Regular Y's require that your header piping straighten out before connecting to the Y's inlet.
I'm just trying to save you some $$$ haha...
What're you doing for hangars?
I'm just trying to save you some $$$ haha...
Have you seen his paint job, money is no object to Lane...
Lane, I sent you a PM...althought I'm not sure my Pm's are working as I have sent a couple others with no response..will you check and let me know? :gruffy:
Lane after all that work you can't go cheap with a single. Come on,, go double it is worth it.
If you go from a V straight to a muzzler you are going to kill your flow. At least have a short run before the muzzler. It is an easy HP gain at this point in the rebuild. If you want pic's of mine I will PM you ( but I got to jack the car up)
"too small" is relative. I'm determined to use this car as a DD and part of my DD requirement is a tolerable exhaust which is hardly wild ever since I hit my thirties. I've given a lot of thought to the matter and even though I know some HP will be lost I'd rather pay the price of continuously lost HP due to restriction than deal with the continuous noise levels I'd get from a race spec exhaust that more than a few folks here think is necessary for any configuration. :D
Don't take my stubbornness as a being snooty about your most excellent exhaust build. I guess I'm just really trying to keep the header->Y->resonator stack as short as I could imagine to allow space for v-bands, better ground clearance (due to position options), and not make John hate me when he takes on the fabrication. Anthony is fabricating the splayed Y for me and his price was very reasonable.
I've spent almost 3 years thinking about what I wanted in this exhaust and I'm anxious to see how it plays out. Everything has been paid for at this point so there's no turning back haha
Lane
When does the bubble arrive?
Looks incredible... hope you're paying this guy by the job, not by the hour :P
cleannnnn !!!
Where is this John guy located??
Not a fan of the gray primer look... To each his own.
Should have used red primer. You done goofed.
Before going on supraforums you need to sit on the edge of your bed and pluck out your ball hair to get in the right frame of mind.
Go on about the epoxy tint thing. I plan on using it for my wife's CJ7.
What'd you guys use to fill the cruise on/off switch hole in the gauge surround.
I need to see this car assembled! Sweet Mary that paint looks magnificent! You have to be super happy with the work.
haha! Thanks guys! I'm really starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel now. I really appreciate all the comments and encouragement. I don't know what I'm going to do with myself when this thing is running like its supposed to and sitting in my garage looking like a million bucks :cheers:
Lane
Too think you were going to throw in the towel and sell it not so long ago.....
You better drive the piss out of it.
I went with a vibrant oval rear muffler as well (although 3.5") and with a Y to mid muffler off my JTR headers, and I absolutely love the sound. I was worried it'd be too loud but it's perfect, I think you'll be happy with this exhaust setup. Paint looks amazing too.
Looking good!!!
Doesnt seem to be working.
(http://greenstateservices.com/images/products/detail/SoundOutEarMuffs.jpg)
I'll just leave these here for ya :yay:
Lane
I'll just leave these here for ya :yay:
Lane
I seem to remember something about needing these? You can have them back :yay:
Why are the front fenders dull looking?
He sold me the car.
updates please!!
On my off time I've been raising my daughter and spending every spare minute (only a few of those in the week) developing a handful of embedded gadgets that will help our community.
Lane
Damn looks good.
But I am confused. Did you sell the car?
Damn looks good.
But I am confused. Did you sell the car?
If you don't get this: http://www.amazon.com/Metro-Force-Master-Blaster-Dryer/dp/B002EKAI5Q (http://www.amazon.com/Metro-Force-Master-Blaster-Dryer/dp/B002EKAI5Q)
I will ban you!
John screwed up, you wanted the car black, not chrome mirror finish!
I like the wheels too.. The car is just too nice for them now.
I know they're cheap and heavy
What was you doing in Indiana, homeskillet?
I joke because I went to college at Purdue in West Lafayette (other side of the river), and it seemed there wasn't much doing there, haha.
Awesome sauce. I was being serious about the blaster dryer. Keep that paint beautiful!
You definitely need some time to let it sink in.
May I suggest you go out in the garage tonight, lay down on the concrete in the dark next to the car (stripping naked is optional) and put this song on.
http://youtu.be/GemKqzILV4w (http://youtu.be/GemKqzILV4w)
You definitely need some time to let it sink in.
May I suggest you go out in the garage tonight, lay down on the concrete in the dark next to the car (stripping naked is optional) and put this song on.
http://youtu.be/GemKqzILV4w (http://youtu.be/GemKqzILV4w)]http://youtu.be/GemKqzILV4w
Are you willing to give a ball park on how much all this paint work cost? I'm thinking it may be a little more than the $3,500 job I got on my old Yellow car ;)
just waiting for this car to go on sale again....... :poke:
just waiting for this car to go on sale again....... :poke:
If it's ever "For sale" I doubt it will be "On Sale" if you know what I mean....
4 days without an update. I'm a little worried.
Read in one sitting, disappointed in myself for not knowing it existed sooner.
So much respect.
How do you like the 275/40/17 rears and 255/40/17 fronts? I have a set of 17x10's and i need new tires. I had previously run 255/40 all around. My concern with the 275/40 is the height, they look pretty tall in your pictures.
I was like "That exhaust build looks so familiar!" Just realized it was Anthony's work. lol Make sure you wipe it down with WD-40 after install. You don't want fingerprints to burn in on the metal.
I was like "That exhaust build looks so familiar!" Just realized it was Anthony's work. lol Make sure you wipe it down with WD-40 after install. You don't want fingerprints to burn in on the metal.
Seriously? I would start googling but I'm putting a todler to bed.
Lane
mass produce those antenna adapters
:wave:
I bet that car would look great in a photo somewhere nice... Besides the garage ;)
Who wants to see Lane shoot it somewhere nice for some nice computer wallpaper?
I know I do!
Where did you get your reverse lights? I have been looking for them for a while. The only place I can find them is in Australia.
What was involved with the mirror install? My mirror glass looks like crap
Did you tint those reverse lamps yourself? I have those, and they look a lot better tinted. If so what did you use? I wanna say I bought them from Hong Kong? They have them on RHDJapan too.
PS: I want one of those antennas lol
Everything looks great but you could have gotten a lot more out of a small JL sub
I of assume you are running the tweets through the crossovers if you are running them off the head unit. How will you adjust gain levels on them?
Yes, i am not up to speed on the current active setups.. I was not aware that the headunit could handle the corssovers.
do you still own this car?
Looking great Lane!!
Where are you taking it for the tune, if I may ask?
I've had my car tuned by both Futral Motorsports and Engine Power Systems in the Baton Rouge area which are both about equal distance with Nashville. Futral does have kinda shitty customer service unless you spend big bucks with them but Engine Power Systems tuned up my new motor and did a fantastic job and are easy to reach after say 10am. Geoff (the owner of EPS) is a guru on ls custom cam design and tuning. Just throwing that out there.
Looking great Lane!!
Where are you taking it for the tune, if I may ask?
Carma Performance in Nashville, TN
http://www.carma-performance.com/ (http://www.carma-performance.com/)
It's actually a shop at the end of a pretty discouraging list of dynos I contacted about dyno'ing my car over a period of 2 months. I almost made a post here ranting about my bad luck, but I decided to keep it quiet until it was all worked out. I just couldn't find a reputable shop within 6hrs of me to do the work for anything!
1. The shop you (XLR8) were using packed up and moved to Houston TX I believe. Sorry I can't remember their names as I x'd them off my list after hearing they'd moved.
2. Speed South in Pelham, AL promised they would fit me in, in 2 weeks (back in February) but didn't... Then they promised to get me in before the end of March, but again failed to get me a firm appointment so I told them I'd look elsewhere.
3. Hux Racing in Goodwater, AL. Got into some technical conversations with the owner Eric Hux, but quickly realized that he doesn't tune with HP Tuners often and maybe doesn't even tune GM PCMs that much. Discussions about what the GM PCM does to account for when the MAF is disabled / disconnected (basically how to setup a SD tune) made me worry about choosing them to tune my car. I guess the feeling was mutual because they stopped returning my messages.
4. Futral Motorsports in Walker, LA. Never returned my calls
5. Carma Performance in Nashville TN. The first to give me an actual appointment (April 22nd). They sound technically proficient via our messages and can carry technical discussions regarding the tuning I've done to date. They've been a little slow to respond some weeks, but I get that. It's a busy business. We'll see. If they keep their appointment (I'm taking a day off to make it as they are 5.5hrs away) and can deliver a daily driveable tune I'll be happy.
Lane
Are you maf or SD?
Haha I'd bet the light load missing you feel is fuel related not spark.
The samberg intake duct doesn't play well with mafs.
I'm a SD convert. A little trickier to get every cell dialed in, but really taking my blended cal to a SD open loop cal only took me a couple hours of road tuning. I would not go back. Even a mild setup will feel smoother and more responsive - especially on your early ecu.
ya you would think if the pitch of the pump is changing......
Sorry , ,, (more words = better communication), if the pitch of the pump is changing would that not mean the electricity going to the pump is fluctuating?
Haha I'd bet the light load missing you feel is fuel related not spark.
The samberg intake duct doesn't play well with mafs.
I'm a SD convert. A little trickier to get every cell dialed in, but really taking my blended cal to a SD open loop cal only took me a couple hours of road tuning. I would not go back. Even a mild setup will feel smoother and more responsive - especially on your early ecu.
Definitely ditch that huge ground wire running between header primaries lol, just run it under the frame?
I was stubborn about running the MAF. Belieb.. You'll be happier. Never tried a honeycomb. Didn't want to restrict the flow. Even if the MAF gets a good signal driveability will be better with SD. Your afr may fluctuate more but who cares. Just watch for knock if it's going to the lean side in 6th.
Speedfab once said "fast cars don't have MAFs"...
The battery cable runs through the firewall below the ABS stuff, then between the headers and the firewall on its way to the starter. It's wrapped in DEI cool tape and a DEI aluminized fiberglass cool sleeve. I wonder if I can secure it to the firewall somewhere, to ensure it doesn't get anywhere near the rear header tube where it passes it? It only has maybe 2" between the rear tube and the insulation at the moment, and I fear it may move forward and touch the header under hard braking.
I'm even more nervous about my clutch hydraulic line now, it runs between two of the drivers side header tubes. It's wrapped in fiberglass insulation and routed inside an aluminum tube where it goes between the headers. I guess I need to drain the clutch hydraulics so I can pull, unwrap, and inspect the line...
If I recall correctly you're running 1 7/8" headers, whereas I'm running the smaller 1 3/4" (also ceramic coated) so maybe that's part of the difference.
Do you think maybe your headers were getting hotter than they should have been due to the lack of a good tune on the engine?
How many miles do you have on those MSD plug wires?~ 3000 miles
My clutch line is also heat shielded in DEI fire sleeve but it makes its patch down from the MC then to the framerail, back, and straight shots over the header around and over the collector area to the quick disconnect. I don't go through any primary tubes. It just goes over the merge at the collector and there is 1-2" of clearance. If you've got that option, I'd definitely recommend it over routing through the primaries, even if you've crafted a heatsink tube. Note, if you stick with the aluminum tube I would change the material. Heat goes right through aluminum because it's a great thermal conductor. Kinda the opposite of what you what you're shooting for.Thanks for the feedback, I'm convinced the clutch line needs attention. Hopefully the hydraulic fluid is acting as a coolant to some extent, and the aluminum tube was supposed to act like a reflective heat shield more than a heatsink, but I think your routing is definitely superior.
Sorry to hear you're selling your car, for some reason I thought you'd decided to keep it. I can't imagine ever selling mine, but I also can't imagine ever having kids and I'm sure that changes your priorities.
Hopefully the hydraulic fluid is acting as a coolant to some extent
Lane, I only meant it to be a cute quote and certainly didn't mean to give offense.
Congratulations on the news! :wave:
Haha my house is at 1500 ft of altitude and I can be at sea level in 45 minutes or at 4000 feet in 15 ;) I don't think your weather changes that drastically.
Haha my house is at 1500 ft of altitude and I can be at sea level in 45 minutes or at 4000 feet in 15 ;) I don't think your weather changes that drastically.
Genesis sedan R spec? 429 hp 5.0 V8. Large 4 pot Brembo brakes, 10 year warranty..
my budget is going to be around $16k after everything shuffles out. I don't want a car payment, so that's pretty much it.
Pez actually did the LS-Astro years back. I considered the same to replace my 89 voyager turbo years back. He stated that marching inside/outside the car to access both sides of the engine gets old REAL fast. That said, smoking guys in your minivan is about the best feeling ever... :chug:
my budget is going to be around $16k after everything shuffles out. I don't want a car payment, so that's pretty much it.
You can get one with under 50k miles for under $20k just doing a 10 second search.
Hey Lane, I'm an 11+ year MB Dealer Master Tech, have owned a w211 E55AMG, and have recently been flipping MB cars on the side. Feel free to shoot me any questions about common problems to look for in certain chassis. I can run MB VMI's (Vehicle Master Inquiry) for free, which is Mercedes Dealer Specific complete vehicle history if you find a few cars you're looking at.
I try to stay away from any ABC equipped car simply because parts are crazy expensive. (4x)~$1000 hydraulic shocks, (2x) $300 fluid accumulators, (2x) $2000 valve blocks, $35/liter synthetic hydraulic fluid, and $~1800 "tandem" Power steering/ABC high pressure pump. I also really dislike the R class, but don't get me started on that one haha.
Ive loved watching your build, and have found tons of inspiration here. Best of luck!
Please stay active on the forum
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The time and effort you put into an ad that you didn't have to write is proof alone to how you approached this build. Well done, and good luck on your future builds!
Hope you stick around, this forum has some great people and it sucks to loose them.
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what camera is that it takes great pictures?
what camera is that it takes great pictures?