NoRotors.com - RX7 Engine Swap Forum
Technical Information => Build Threads => Topic started by: texfc on May 14, 2010, 02:11:59 PM
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Let me start with the goals I have for this build:
1. Build a fun weekend car that a blast to drive, with power and handling.
2. Keep the OEM comfort items, AC, power steering, etc.
3. Stay within some type of budget (I have 4 in college now)
4. Do everything the right way, don't cut corners.
Looking at the other build threads, I have to admire guys like Graham/mayham/fx, who pay attention to the little details. You know they're on a budget, but they use a lot of ingenuity and craftsmanship. I may not reach that level of quality, but it's what I'm shooting for.
Ok, here is what I started with, a 1988 GXL that had a half completed engine swap, but the owner was moving and had to let it go. He was building it for bracket racing, so a lot of the items I needed had already been stripped from the car. It did have a lot of parts I needed, including a TII rear-end, the Granny's kit, aluminum NA hood, the big OEM brakes, and a Chevy 350. But, what a mess....
(http://www.kwhi.com/RX7/GXL-start.jpg)
Not being a fan of red cars I went looking for a better FC. It's amazing how cheap you can find them if you look long enough. Found this white 1989 GTU on Craig's list. The motor was in boxes, but everything else I needed was there and in decent shape. The body has a few dings, but it's good enough to drive around in until I get time to do the body and paint. I like the white color and the rear spoiler really completes the look of the car IMO.
(http://www.kwhi.com/RX7/GTU-start.jpg)
Some of my friends told me I should just leave the engine alone and run it. I figured it was just a stock 350, with a Holley intake and carb, but I didn't want a oil burning, worn out engine in the car. I tore the engine down, it was all stock, mid 1970's smog motor, 2 bolt mains. It was in decent shape, except that a few of the bores had some pitting from sitting up for a long time.
(http://www.kwhi.com/RX7/cylinder-pitting.jpg)
Took the block to the machine shop for a bore and hone, but ended up getting the works......ouch! They did a nice job. I went with some Speed Pro hypereutectic flat top pistons, which should give 10:1 compression with a 64cc head. The cam is a Comp XE268H, which according to their program should give a broad power band and make around 400 hp with the heads I selected.
(http://www.kwhi.com/RX7/short-block.jpg)
When I checked the piston to valve clearance, it was below the .08 required on the intake valve on two of the cylinders. Looking at the pistons, the valve reliefs were very inconsistent in their depth and width. A quick trip to Wal-Mart for some Play-dough reviled where the valves were hitting. After masking off everything, I used a Dremel with a sanding drum to widen the eyebrow reliefs on the two pistons. Glad I took the time to check the clearance, another engine builder told me not to bother checking because the cam I'm running wasn't that wild.....
(http://www.kwhi.com/RX7/piston-playdoe.jpg)
I wanted to go with aluminum heads to save so weight, and there are a lot out there for the Chevy that are reasonably priced. I decided on the Patriot Performance as cast 185cc runner, 64cc chamber heads. Here is one next to the old small valve, smog motor head. Definitely shinny.....
(http://www.kwhi.com/RX7/heads-old-new.jpg)
I was going to reuse the old rocker arms, but I was told that nobody put old stamped steel rockers on a new aluminum head, so I got the Summit house brand, which the local machine shop said they have had good luck with. Here's a shot of the completed engine.
(http://www.kwhi.com/RX7/engine-complete.jpg)
Next, the transmission. I would love to have a T56, but it's off my budget. I found a WC T5 from a '89 camaro that had a Hurst short throw shifter on it. It had been sitting in this guy?s yard for a long time and was in need of a rebuild. I thought I would just get the rebuild kit and download the Tremec service manual and go to town......wrong! The printed manual doesn't show enough detail to see exactly how all those little parts fit together, and there are a lot of little parts. I found that Hanlon Motor Sports offer a DVD on how to rebuild the T5. It takes you step by step and shows close-ups of the little parts. Here is the T5 in pieces on my bench, notice the DVD player....hey, don't laugh, I've never rebuilt a transmission before..
(http://www.kwhi.com/RX7/trans-apart.jpg)
Got it all back together in 3 evenings. End play on the main and counter shafts at 0. Shifter feels great, click, click, click though all the gears. Can't wait to get it in the car....(http://www.kwhi.com/RX7/t5-finished.jpg)
Next, the clutch, flywheel, slave. I hope to get to them this weekend........
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Nice build. The T5s are nice shifting transmissions. If you end up blowing it, you can always upgrade with G-Force internals. Look at Howe or Quarter Master for the hydraulic TOB.
Andrew
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seems like T5's are becoming more popular lately
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Cool build, the engine looks very nice. Can't wait to see her running.
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Killer looking small block, very nice, wish i had similar head, keep us updated!
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Nice looking motor. Good work on the T5 as well. Be nice to it and hopefully you won't have to revisit those assembly skills. ;)
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I thought I should update the build thread since I've made some progress lately.....sometimes real life gets in the way ::) I decided to get the engine running before i went any further, to see if I was going to have to pull the engine back out. Connected everything up temporary, don't laugh, it's just temporary! Added both the Comp Cams additive and the Joe Gibbs break-in oil.
(http://www.kwhi.com/rx7/oil.jpg)
To my amazement, it started right up! Ran it for 20 minutes at 2500 rpm for the break-in. Here is a short video of a test run the next day:
Test run of SBC 355 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EoS0RfOStRw#ws)
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sweet i run a t5 behind my 5.3 lsx swap, i can provide a sweet list of what you need to make it happen... do you have a bb bellhousing yet?
Originally Posted by atli126
http://www.howeracing.com/p-7754-imp...ck-clutch.aspx (http://www.howeracing.com/p-7754-imp...ck-clutch.aspx)
LS series T5 installation parts list:
Bellhousing casting number 3899621
Stock LS1 or LS6 flywheel, pressure plate and clutch
Pilot bearing GM part #12557583
Howe racing hydraulic throwout bearing #82870
2 short hard lines to get you out the bellhousing.
3/4" or 7/8" master cylinder
fork (pioneer PN# CF100, GM 340278 & 14066235)
http://www.v8rx7forum.com/showthread...90-Vert/page23 (http://www.v8rx7forum.com/showthread...90-Vert/page23)
This is a very helpful thread so I thought that I would throw this in here as well...
Keisler now has an LS motor depth 621 Bellhousing that is going for around the same price as used original bellhousings (Priced via ebay).
http://www.keislerauto.com/gm/gm-par...ypage_acc.html (http://www.keislerauto.com/gm/gm-par...ypage_acc.html)
Just another option in getting your old school Transmission behind the LSx motors.
http://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-transmission/1069277-5-3-t5-2.html (http://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-transmission/1069277-5-3-t5-2.html)
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Here is the clutch set up. Flywheel is a L88 type (15.9 lbs.) Clutch is a Zoom OEM type 10.5 inch. Bell housing is a casting # 3840383 (GM part # 3858403) "straight up" type from a mid 60's car. Fork is a AC Delco 3870001 shortened 1 1/2 inch. Slave is a Wilwood pull type and the Master is the Wilwood 7/8 inch from the Hinson kit. In the car, the setup has a definite "over-center" feel in the clutch pedal. I need to fab a bracket to allow the slave to pull the fork at more of a 90 degree angle. That should help the feel some. I also could have gone with a 3/4 inch master. It works well enough for now, I'll leave the fine tuning for later.
(http://www.kwhi.com/rx7/slave-mount.jpg)
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Here is the radiator install:
Radiator - Summit 380328 27 x 19 5/8 inches
Fan 97-98 Lincoln Mark VIII two speed fan
Brackets made from 2 x 1 1/2 aluminum angle tig welded on by local shop.
Mazda radiator rubber mounts split and slipped over 1/4 inch id vacuum hose to make isolators for the mount brackets.
Radiator filler neck removed and welded shut to improve clearance.
Radiator top cover fabricated from .040 aluminum sheet, clears hood by 1/4 inch.
Frame rails drilled and tapped for 1/4 - 20 bolts from brackets.
Fan shroud trimmed 1/2 inch with table saw to reduce depth of mounted fan (blades are still 3/8 inch from core)
Fan shroud mounted to radiator with 1/4 x 1/2 inch aluminum flat bar drilled and tapped for 8-32 screws to attach to the top and bottom frame of the radiator.
Disclaimer: I got this idea from the FD guys. Don't know how it will hold up when the car actually hits the road.
(http://www.kwhi.com/RX7/radiator1.jpg)
(http://www.kwhi.com/RX7/radiator2.jpg)
(http://www.kwhi.com/RX7/radiator3.jpg)
(http://www.kwhi.com/RX7/radiator4.jpg)
(http://www.kwhi.com/RX7/radiator5.jpg)
(http://www.kwhi.com/RX7/radiator6.jpg)
(http://www.kwhi.com/rx7/radiator7.jpg)
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that is almost exactly the same clutch setup as I have, same fw, clutch and pull slave. The only differences are I switched to a Lakewood bellhousing when I had trouble with the OEM one, and I have the Granny's fork with a stock master
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that is almost exactly the same clutch setup as I have, same fw, clutch and pull slave. The only differences are I switched to a Lakewood bellhousing when I had trouble with the OEM one, and I have the Granny's fork with a stock master
What problem did you have with the GM bellhousing?
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sweet build! Definitely nice for a SBC/T5 setup.
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that is almost exactly the same clutch setup as I have, same fw, clutch and pull slave. The only differences are I switched to a Lakewood bellhousing when I had trouble with the OEM one, and I have the Granny's fork with a stock master
What problem did you have with the GM bellhousing?
It was beat to hell, multiple helicoils, center alignment hole was very loose; it left scorched marks on my flywheel and caused vibration. It was just that particular one, but I wanted a guaranteed solution, and liked the extra safety of 3/16 hydroformed steel
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very nice. Where did you get those valve covers from?
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From Summit, # PRO-141-751. They have the black crinkle finish.
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very nice ! and similar to my build . I also used the Granny's shorted fork and "pull" type slave . My set up has worked since '02 with very little to no problems .
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More progress today, finished the fuel system. Gas is in the tank for the first time in 2 years! I decided to run a 3/8 inch line down the passenger side because I didn’t want to extend the OEM line across the engine bay to the pump, and from what I’ve read, the 5/16 line is marginal with an old-school mechanical pump and a healthy V8. The line is 3/8 aluminum, and was very easy to work with. The fuel is filtered 3 times, fuel screen at the pickup, inline filter next to the tank, and a final filter at the carb.
(http://www.norotors.com/MGalleryItem.php?id=4249)
Re-did the fuel tank with a bulkhead AN fitting and hard line.
(http://www.norotors.com/MGalleryItem.php?id=4250)
(http://www.norotors.com/MGalleryItem.php?id=4251)
Ran the last 2 feet of the line in Thermo-Sleeve.
(http://www.norotors.com/MGalleryItem.php?id=4252)
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Another quick update, I got the brakes finished this week. Painted the calipers with Dupli-Color shaker can caliper paint and the obligatory Mazda logo filing. After reading all the posts on performance street pads, I decided to purchase the Porterfield R4-S pads from LPI Racing (site sponsor). Got a new Wagner brand master from Rock Auto, but the reservoir was very yellowed, so I swapped it for the old OEM one that still looked good. Got the rotors turned at the local NAPA store. All of the brake items are from the 1988 GXL parts car. Everything was just a bolt-on to the 1989 GTU base car. Had to adjust the rod from the booster to take some of the free-play out of the brake pedal, but that was about it.
(http://www.norotors.com/MGalleryItem.php?id=4253)
(http://www.norotors.com/MGalleryItem.php?id=4254)
(http://www.norotors.com/MGalleryItem.php?id=4255)
Bench bleeding the new master:
(http://www.norotors.com/MGalleryItem.php?id=4257)
Made a vacuum bleeder from stuff I had in the garage:
(http://www.norotors.com/MGalleryItem.php?id=4258)
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Pretty snazzy vacuum bleeder you made. :)
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Im really not happy with the 'brush on' Duplicolor caliper paint. Your spray type is looking awesome.
Project is looking good :)
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Looks great!
Looks like a white version of my car almost. LOL!
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Got the exhaust finished up yesterday, and it was the most labor intensive project yet on the car. Part of that was due to not having a lift for the car, and also because I was learning how to do it. I want to thank Don Teifke (bikedad) for posting the great photos of his new exhaust. I used them as a guide in building mine. I bought 2 J-bends and 2 U-bends, 2 straight 4-foot sections, the Summit narrow X pipe, 2 Jegs ball and socket couplers, and 2 Summit Turbo mufflers. I had the Magnaflow on a previous car and it was a little loud for me, especially after a year of driving. I’m still learning how to weld, but getting better at it, only half of my welds look like piled up buggers.
A few things I learned on this project:
1.The mandrel bends are about 1/8 inch smaller diameter than the straight section, not a big deal when welding, but there will be a ridge on the inside. If I had to do it again, I might invest in a bender for bends less than 20 degrees.
2.When welding the tubing, rotate it so you are always welding down the side, so that gravity helps pull the bead along. If you weld directly on top, gravity wants to pull the bead inside the tube, and you get a burn through.
3.Burn throughs are not a big deal, just let it cool down and go back and fill it in. I duct taped the ends and put low pressure air in the pipes and checked the welds for pin holes with soapy water. Marked them and went back and tacked them shut.
I welded in O2 bungs on both sides in case I get a wideband gauge or switch to EFI down the road. The Jegs ball and socket couplers are nice that they allow a little bit of angle if the pipes are not exactly lined up. When I was done welding, I painted everything with the Dupli-color ceramic engine paint (cast iron). I don’t know if it will last, but it might keep the welds from getting rusty.
Don's exhaust photos taped to the window:
(http://www.kwhi.com/rx7/car-side.jpg)
My welding rig, an old copier cart from the office:
(http://www.kwhi.com/rx7/welding-rig.jpg)
Pieces tacked and ready to be welded:
(http://www.kwhi.com/rx7/tacked.jpg)
(http://www.kwhi.com/rx7/welded.jpg)
(http://www.kwhi.com/rx7/front-view.jpg)
(http://www.kwhi.com/rx7/rear-view.jpg)
Jegs couplers:
(http://www.kwhi.com/rx7/couplers.jpg)
O2 bung:
(http://www.kwhi.com/rx7/bung.jpg)
My custom 20 degree slant cut tip:
(http://www.kwhi.com/rx7/tip.jpg)
This is all I had left over when I was done:
(http://www.kwhi.com/rx7/scrap.jpg)
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I think it looks like you did a very nice job on your exhaust. Was this your first time doing that?
I had an exhaust shop make my old exhaust and it didn't look near that nice and probably cost at least 3 times as much. :(
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Very nice! Almost makes me wish I would have tried to weld my own. (but I wouldn't have had a picture to go from :D)
FYI: I lost my nuts..... on the driver side header flange. ;)
I'm going to put locking nuts to hold the serrated nuts on this time. There's enough expansion and contraction to loosen them up.
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I think it looks like you did a very nice job on your exhaust. Was this your first time doing that?
I had an exhaust shop make my old exhaust and it didn't look near that nice and probably cost at least 3 times as much. :(
Yes, this was my first time to try this, practiced on some scrap tubing first. It took me 3 weekends to complete.
Very nice! Almost makes me wish I would have tried to weld my own. (but I wouldn't have had a picture to go from :D)
FYI: I lost my nuts..... on the driver side header flange. ;)
I'm going to put locking nuts to hold the serrated nuts on this time. There's enough expansion and contraction to loosen them up.
I always thought you had a few loose screws! :D Do you think just putting jam nuts behind the header nuts would work, or do I need to get locking nuts?
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Jam nuts might keep them from falling off when they get loose.
I'm just going to put another nut on to lock it in place. Just tighten it against the first nut. I'm hoping that will keep it from loosening up.
I'll let you know what happens.
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Looks great! Where did you get the exhaust tubing from and what gauge is it?
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The pipe is from Summit, 16 gauge aluminized steel.
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If you get locking nuts, get the all metal kind, not the nylock kind. :)
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If you get locking nuts, get the all metal kind, not the nylock kind. :)
Oh but why? :D That's what the original builder of my car used. >:(
I put the car up on the lift at Kilpatricks tonight. The passenger side was tight as can be but the driver side was missing all 3 nuts. (dropped my nuts man.)
Clint had serrated nuts against the collector flange and he said he's never seen them come loose before. These are the same nuts and bolts they use on the race car. He thinks one of 2 things. Either he forgot to tighten them or due to the torque on the drivers side it might have loosened them but he said that should have happened on the passenger side as well.
He thinks he just didn't torque them enough.
We put new serrated nuts on and then just double nutted them. (just screw another nut against it and tighten the bottom nut)
I'll keep an eye on it.
I've used the metal lock nuts before and they hold well. But, if you want to remove them for maintenance or something they are a bitch to get off. :punch:
If the double nut idea doesn't pan out then I'll go back to the metal lock nuts. :bacon:
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She moves! First time out of the garage in 2 years. Had to take my cute assistant (2 year old grandson) along for the first drive. After, he kept asking "again, again?" Please excuse the dogs, they thought it was a stranger.
First drive (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A7vH8icA5sI&feature=player_detailpage#ws)
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Very nice!
It sounds very smooth and looks great. You do very nice work.
Looking forward to seeing some on the road video soon.... :popcorn:
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Very good looking ride!
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Very nice!
It sounds very smooth and looks great. You do very nice work.
Looking forward to seeing some on the road video soon.... :popcorn:
Thanks Don, I hope to get it "legal" this next week so I can get it on the road. BTW, did you see the latest issue of Car Craft? They did a test of SBC heads for under 1k and the one they said made the most power is the one I have on the seven! 420hp on a 350 set up about the same as mine. I might be able to give your 383 a good run in a heads up race unless you get too carried away with your improvements!
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Very nice!
It sounds very smooth and looks great. You do very nice work.
Looking forward to seeing some on the road video soon.... :popcorn:
Thanks Don, I hope to get it "legal" this next week so I can get it on the road. BTW, did you see the latest issue of Car Craft? They did a test of SBC heads for under 1k and the one they said made the most power is the one I have on the seven! 420hp on a 350 set up about the same as mine. I might be able to give your 383 a good run in a heads up race unless you get too carried away with your improvements!
Yeah I did read that. Just finished the issue. My heads are massaged iron vortec heads. I kind of wish I had gone with the aluminum heads. For what mine cost to upgrade I could have gotten a nice set of aluminum ones.
I need to have my car dynoed again. I've put on the 800CFM carb and redone the exhaust since the last session.
I was 350 RWHP then. I'm thinking 375 RWHP or better now.
I wish you were closer. It would be fun running the two cars against each other. They are very close in build.
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nice job!
keep the grandson smiling
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Car looks awesome! :cheers:
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Just a small update. Spent the weekend replacing the carpet and putting the interior in. I removed the S5 mouse belts and installed the S4 seat belts. Installed both the upper and lower shifter boots, and put in the GXL seats. I have trim from 3 different cars, so the interior is an odd combination of gray, blue, and black trim, but it doesn’t look bad together. I have to get the car looking half decent because I promised the wife I’d take her on a date in it Saturday to the local downtown concert and car show.
(http://www.kwhi.com/rx7/seats.jpg)
Lower shifter boot, just a cheap Mr. Gasket boot , don’t know how long it will hold up.
(http://www.kwhi.com/rx7/inner-boot.jpg)
Upper boot (from ebay)
(http://www.kwhi.com/rx7/shifter.jpg)
Plastic windshield trim. I was happy how this turned out, wish I has a before photo, but like most RX7s the edge was chipped and the surface was really weathered and crusty. I trimmed the edge with a small pair of wire cutters, sanded it smooth and painted it with Duplicolor Trim Black.
(http://www.kwhi.com/rx7/windshield.jpg)
Got a die cut decal for the back window, I think the scripture is fitting.
(http://www.kwhi.com/rx7/scripture.jpg)
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Looks great.
My interior is like yours. Blue, Black and Grey from different cars. Looks good to me but that's not saying much. My wife tells me I have no taste in clothes or design. :D
I like the scripture on the back window.
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Nice! I like the shifter.
Im glad you were able to restore the window trim, I was worried about what to do with mine.
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My windsheild trim is missing. I hope its still available.
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I found some on ebay new for about $300 for the pair. :o That's why I fixed mine.
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Got the car "legal" today with the state. :) Took it out for a serious drive.....all I can say is OMG!
I have deprived myself for too long.......
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Awesome! I love driving mine for the first time after putting it away for a while.
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Sweet! :cheers:
Be careful though. Don't strain your smile muscles. ;)
I still get a shit eatin grin on my face when I drive my car. :D
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Put a quick coat of wax on the car Saturday and took it downtown for the concert and car show. The band was great, played a lot of music from the 70’s and 80’s. My wife and I had a great time, my only disappointment was that she didn’t want to ride in the RX7 because lacks AC right now. Come on, it’s only 98 degrees! So after I get the hood finished, I guess I need to get the AC running. Had lots of comments on the car, like “how did you do that”, and “you don’t see those everyday”. I had made it my goal this year to get the car on the road in time to take it to this event. I’m really glad that things worked out. Still have a lot to do on the car, but at least I can take it out on “test drives” now!
(http://www.kwhi.com/rx7/car-show.jpg)
(http://www.kwhi.com/rx7/band.jpg)
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Looks great. What are your plans for the hood? Doesnt look like that filter will fit a stocker.
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I plan on putting a cowl scoop on it. I bought this one on ebay about a year ago, but I think it's going to be too short, it's only 2 inches tall at the highest point. I found another seller that has both 2.5 and 3 inch cowl scoops that others here have used, so I will probably order one of those once I get a chance to measure it.
(http://www.kwhi.com/rx7/hood.jpg)
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Here's the scoop I used. I cut 4" off the back of the scoop to center it over the air cleaner. I think it might even look good if it was installed backwards.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-470400/ (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-470400/)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Misc_Pictures/Dir_2/medium_4496.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4496)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/Misc_Pictures/Dir_1/medium_556.JPG) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=556)
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Id rock the no hood look. It works with your car.
Have you thought about doing a carb hat and routing piping downwards to the side and then back up front with a cone filter? that might fit with even small mods to a stock hood, like a mitsubishi turbo hood buldge.
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I guess I'm just hooked on the cowl scoop look. I love the way the old camaros and chevelles looked with them. Anyway, I think the wide, flat FC hood needs something, too boring the way it is.
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I used a replica of an '82 mercury capri scoop (looks like a T2) on my first carbed build . worked great and only about 2" tall at the highest point .
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Weather was beautiful here over the weekend, cool and sunny. My grandson helped me bleed the brakes on the 7 and then we had to take it for a test drive. ;) Check out the video to see the effect a V8-RX7 has on 2 year old boy........and his Po.
(http://www.kwhi.com/rx7/Levi-helping.jpg)
V8-RX7 and 2 year old boy (http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=9fyuwhvUgO0#)
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That is awesome! I can't wait to have kids of my own.. that made my day :)
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That was great!
You know it's true appreciation of fun on a child's face. ;)
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Lol great video, my 2 year old son has the same exact reaction. I love going on short cruises with him and the old car seat strapped on to the front bucket seat.
Very clean build! Nice job.
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LOL, that video is great. :D
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I used that scoop too, but i didn't cut mine at all. I thought it was a pretty good fit. (see pic in sig)
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Hey had a question for ya. Did you have to clearance the fire wall at all behind the distributor? Unfortunately someone clearanced mine pretty good and it has an aftermarket mini distributor. I just pulled the engine and can't remember if it actually needed it to be.
Thanks
Matt
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Hey had a question for ya. Did you have to clearance the fire wall at all behind the distributor? Unfortunately someone clearanced mine pretty good and it has an aftermarket mini distributor. I just pulled the engine and can't remember if it actually needed it to be.
Thanks
Matt
I have a billet MSD "Dizzy" (I know some hate calling it that. LOL) With my Granny's mount and being in the first hole the lip had to be trimmed flush right where the distributor is.
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X2
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Thanks guys :)
Sorry for cluddering up your build thread. Car looks excellent.
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A few weeks back, while I was tuning the carb and timing, trying to get rid of an off idle stumble, the overdrive gear on my T5 let go on a low rpm pull. Pulled the transmission out and opened up the tail housing to see that the snap ring holding the 5th driven gear in place had popped back allowing the gear to slide back on the output shaft. From what I’ve heard and read, this is a common problem on the GM T5, especially when it is used behind a higher torque engine.
(http://www.kwhi.com/rx7/gear-off.jpg)
I had saved the original GM snap ring and decided to use it for the repair thinking that the rebuild kit snap ring may be inferior. Since pulling the transmission is such a pain, I wanted to insure that this snap ring did not pop off again. I purchased an aluminum 30mm shaft collar (McMaster-Carr 9520T16) and used a lathe to cut a step in the end the same diameter and depth as the snap ring.
(http://www.kwhi.com/rx7/lathe.jpg)
I bolted the collar over the snap ring to lock it in place and keep it from expanding and popping off. It clears everything and the aluminum grips tight to the splined shaft without damaging it. I coated everything in Loctite red to be sure.
(http://www.kwhi.com/rx7/clamp.jpg)
While I had the transmission out I decided to improve the clutch slave mounting. Here is the old setup, with the slave attached to the ear on the side of the T5. This caused the slave to pull the fork at an angle.
(http://www.kwhi.com/rx7/old-slave.jpg)
I fabed a bracket from ¼ inch plate similar to what others have done.
(http://www.kwhi.com/rx7/new-bracket.jpg)
The new bracket holds the slave at a straighter angle to the clutch fork. I did have to re-contour the foot well some to make room. The clutch pedal feels better now with less “over center” and lower effort overall. Took the car out for a drive last night and everything worked well, so I’m happy now. :)
(http://www.kwhi.com/rx7/new-slave.jpg)
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Looks good! 8)
I had to "massage" my floor there, and back around my speedo cable .
We need more SBC FCs !
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I like it! One 355 SBC fc owner to another. I really wish I had a t5, but a saginaw 4 speed was readily available, so I'm using that instead.
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If or when my stock FC clutch slave fails I'll consider this configuration. My current setup works (for the past 5 years) but I like your setup much more.
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Finally got the cowl hood finished and on the car, took over a year. Here is what I did:
First I took an undamaged aluminum NA hood and cut a big hole in the middle of it for the air cleaner.
(http://www.troll.me/images/jackie-chan-whut/what-are-you-crazy.jpg)
(http://www.ktex.com/rx7/hood-hole.jpg)
Then I made a sheet metal ring to raise and tilt the air cleaner to follow the angle of the hood.
(http://www.ktex.com/rx7/ring.jpg)
(http://www.ktex.com/rx7/air-cleaner.jpg)
Then I used a DA to remove all 3 layers of base / clear from the hood to take it down to bare metal.
(http://www.ktex.com/rx7/da-hood.jpg)
(http://www.ktex.com/rx7/bare-hood.jpg)
I got a fiberglass cowl hood scoop from ebay and trimmed about 4 inches off the back of it. I bonded it to the hood using the Evercoat panel adhesive because you don't need a special gun to apply it, a regular caulk gun works. I used clecos to hold it in place while the adhesive set up. They were good that they pull it together without crushing it like a pop rivet would.
(http://www.ktex.com/rx7/hood-adhesive.jpg)
(http://www.ktex.com/rx7/hood-clecos.jpg)
I applied 2 layers of fiberglass cloth, followed by short strand filler, regular body filler, then high build primer to taper the edge into the hood.
(http://www.ktex.com/rx7/hood-fiberglass.jpg)
(http://www.ktex.com/rx7/hood-primer.jpg)
On the underside, I glued down the cut edges of the bracing with seam filler, the scuffed, epoxy primed and painted.
(http://www.ktex.com/rx7/hood-bottom.jpg)
I'm still not happy with how the paint came out but I'll have to wait till I get my "paint booth" set up better. It's good enough for now to drive, I still have to paint the rest of the car anyway.
(http://www.ktex.com/rx7/car-hood.jpg)
(http://www.ktex.com/rx7/car-hood1.jpg)
(http://www.ktex.com/rx7/hood2.jpg)
(http://www.ktex.com/rx7/hood-back.jpg)
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That looks really good, nice work!
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Fuck yeah! That looks killer!
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This turned out killer! Good job.
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nice work!
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Your fc is beautiful, glad you put a scoop on the hood. Great job ! :D
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You guys and your white cars. You think you're so special. "Ohh! Look at me! I have a beautiful white FC! Ohh!
Wish my car was white. :(
Hood looks great by the way. :cheers:
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I wish my car had a 383..... :cheers:
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You guys and your white cars. You think you're so special. "Ohh! Look at me! I have a beautiful white FC! Ohh!
Wish my car was white. :(
Hood looks great by the way. :cheers:
:secret:
Car looks great Tex, makes me want to repaint mine in the garage.
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Is the car complete or do you have future plans? :poke:
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Working on the suspension now and enjoying driving the car. Planing on removing all the little dents and door dings next then paint.
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Are you coming to SNS?
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Yes, I'm getting the alignment done this week, then a few shake down short trips to check everything. Looking forward to it, it will be an adventure for me.
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Not a fan of Cowls but you did a great job and its small enough to still look good and flows with the lines of the car perfectly.