NoRotors.com - RX7 Engine Swap Forum
Technical Information => Build Threads => Topic started by: digitalsolo on August 30, 2019, 10:36:47 AM
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So... this is kind of a place holder for now, as I'm working on getting an intro video made and a bunch of pictures sorted, but I'll be documenting this build here.
Background:
A good friend of mine (Ben) has a 4th Gen Camaro (1995 I think.. I'll update that). He's had it for a long time (~20 years). In it's previous life it had a heavily built LT1 (forged bottom end, big heads, etc) with a DS1C blower on it, which made 700+ RWHP. It then got a turbo setup on the same engine that made ~1050 RWHP, and included an LS1 ECU conversion and lots of other goodies. That setup eventually flexed the block enough that it ate the bearings out of it and he took it apart.
The car has a tubular front subframe, aftermarket torque arm, Strange 12 bolt rear, aftermarket tranny mount, Baer brakes, etc. the body is immaculate (I'll get pictures soon).
Anyway, after the LT1 pooped the bed, we started talking about doing a built iron block LS in it, and aiming for 1100 HP or so. He wanted repeatability on that, so we were aiming for a 6 bolt block, possibly LS Next, etc. He was mulling doing that or buying a Supra (MKIV). I told him we could just put a 2JZ in his chassis....
Which leads to now...
Plan is:
Forged 2JZ-GTE
2JZ-GE VVTI cylinder head w/ bigger cams
Mid Frame T4 turbo
Suprastore tubular manifold
Custom front facing intake (I'm planning to fabricate this)
Custom engine mounts
T56 Magnum adapted to 2JZ with scattershield and twin disc
FMIC (reusing this from the old turbo setup)
4" exhaust all the way out (reusing most of the oval tubular Nick and I built for his old setup)
Haltech Elite 2500 ECU
Custom gauges
A/C
Power Steering
Engine is currently sitting in the car (literally, not on mounts yet) with lower intake manifold and the Supra Store exhaust manifold on it. It clears the hood, cowl, rack, subframe and steering. It's SNUG side to side, but it will fit. Rear sump JDM pan on the motor.
We'll be making a video series along with pictures of the build. I figure it's a nice inverse of my normal LS in an import builds... :D
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The car:
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/1-300819104149-11537842.jpeg)
And the introduction:
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/1-300819104108-115261791.jpeg)
Empty bay:
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/1-300819104109-115261137.jpeg)
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Mocked up in place:
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/1-300819104110-11533416.jpeg)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/1-300819104111-11533279.jpeg)
Mocking up the exhaust to see if we had space between the strut towers... It's tight, but it'll fit. The tranny isn't straight in the tunnel, so the engine looks like it's canted out of true, but the front of the motor is actually where it is supposed to be. The plan is to move it about 3/4" - 1" forward and about 1/2" up in final alignment.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/1-300819104112-11535800.jpeg)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/1-300819104113-11535538.jpeg)
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This is looking awesome! :popcorn:
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This looks awfully familiar! :cheers:
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Kinda like the Supra motor in the vintage Mustang in the F&F movie, huh? :barf:
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That was a Nissan Skyline motor actually. You can't really have a V8 RX7 and hate on motor swaps ya know, LOL.
We're shooting for ~1100 HP. It'll be fun.
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Not a classic Mustang here. It's an early F-body here. Crush it for all I care. I hated the F&F Mustang. But this, I'm okay with.
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weird engine swaps are the best, this would do really well on Youtube are you filming anything?
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Why do I love this??? Remove lightweight american motor from large chassis and put in small Japanese chassis WIN. Take heavy Japanese motor and place in heavy american chassis. Also a WIN LOL
I want a 2JZ mearly for the sound!
freeskier is right you tube would love this, might be all negative but its views and $$$ :cheers:
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Anyone who's mad at this, remember, I was going to put a 2JZ into my Mustang, that's why I was already familiar with the swap, I'd already done research, LOL. I still kinda want one. Hahaha
And yes, 100% YouTube filming it. We figure this one has a chance to blow up, partially because the negativity will generate buzz, and then (hopefully) the fab work and such will reel 'em in. We shot 2x intro videos the other day, just introducing ourselves and the project and my buddy who owns the car is sprinkling some info around some of the LT1/LS1 forums to get hooks set. We'll see how it does, if it does well, maybe I'll do that LS1/DB9 build, haha.
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Oh, and on the update train:
I spent a bit of time Monday working on motor alignment and got it set in position. Good news: engine/turbo clears the hood. Bad news: Turbo clears by about 0.005". I can't lower the engine any further, so I'm going to make some aluminum spacers for the k-member to drop it about 5/16", which will get me a bit more clearance everywhere. That'll also allow the transmission to drop 5/16" which will help with it's position slightly as well. I clearanced the exhaust manifold a bit (basically notched the one gate pipe), which got me the side/side clearance I needed, and the engine is clear of the crossmember and rack by about 1/4" all around. It's very close to the driver side steering rack mounting ear, but I'll clearance that and use a countersunk bolt and it'll be fine.
Next is fabricating engine mounts and re-building the transmission mount, then the subframe mounts, then we start on hot side/cold side/exhaust. Then cooling system, fuel system, electrical system and engine build (that'll be BeasTT, he's the engine builder). Then booooooooooooooost!
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maybe I'll do that LS1/DB9 build, haha.
Sorry, someone beat you to that.
https://m.facebook.com/watch/?v=354252868587490&_rdr
Also was this originally an LT1 car? they look way better
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Poop. Well if I build one, the wheels will fit. LOL
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Anyone who's mad at this, remember, I was going to put a 2JZ into my Mustang, that's why I was already familiar with the swap, I'd already done research, LOL. I still kinda want one. Hahaha
And yes, 100% YouTube filming it. We figure this one has a chance to blow up, partially because the negativity will generate buzz, and then (hopefully) the fab work and such will reel 'em in. We shot 2x intro videos the other day, just introducing ourselves and the project and my buddy who owns the car is sprinkling some info around some of the LT1/LS1 forums to get hooks set. We'll see how it does, if it does well, maybe I'll do that LS1/DB9 build, haha.
Anyone who's mad at this, remember, I was going to put a 2JZ into my Mustang, that's why I was already familiar with the swap, I'd already done research, LOL. I still kinda want one. Hahaha
And yes, 100% YouTube filming it. We figure this one has a chance to blow up, partially because the negativity will generate buzz, and then (hopefully) the fab work and such will reel 'em in. We shot 2x intro videos the other day, just introducing ourselves and the project and my buddy who owns the car is sprinkling some info around some of the LT1/LS1 forums to get hooks set. We'll see how it does, if it does well, maybe I'll do that LS1/DB9 build, haha.
how about LS9/DB9 to be consistent
what's your YouTube Channel? I'll be sure to subscribe!
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Poop. Well if I build one, the wheels will fit. LOL
LOL
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My buddy who owns the car is running that one. I'll share it as soon as he lets me know.
-My- YouTube channel is https://www.youtube.com/user/digitalsolo2
-Blake
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It's it isn't binky level, I'm not subscribing. :gruffy:
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Need better audio, and probably a little better editing software, but here's our first intro video. It's just discussing the project, no actual build work yet, but it's a start:
https://youtu.be/8tOCr_Otidw
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Progress!
Building motor mounts:
Passenger side in progress:
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/1-090919194626-11547374.jpeg)
Driver side all braced up:
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/1-090919194629-115471665.jpeg)
And the motor in the car on the mounts! I am putting some small slotting in the car to help with perfecting the alignment (I'm fighting millimeters for clearances) but this is very nearly the final spot. Next is finishing mods to the tranny crossmember, then I should be able to put the wastegates on and start building downpipes/charge pipes.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/1-090919194622-115452360.jpeg)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/1-090919194621-115451827.jpeg)
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Hot rolled steel sucks!
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Another update video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lJufgQgLIyw
Watch it if you want to hear me ramble on about nerdy crap for 15 out of 20 minutes of video.
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Intake manifold fabricobblation:
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/1-131019195521-11618624.jpeg)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/1-131019195524-116221456.jpeg)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/1-131019195521-116181846.jpeg)
This was a real PITA, and the most complex thing I've ever fabricated I think. I cut the runners off flush, about 1.5" shorter than stock. I then marked the runners on a 3/16 flat plate (3003) and cut them with a step bit to "big but not all the big" then welded the runners to the plate (this was a real PITA, between snaking the torch around them and welding old dirty cast to the 3003. Anyway, once that was done, I used a wood router with a 1/4" roundover bit to enlarge the holes to proper size and bellmouth them. I cleaned that up with a die grinder a bit here and there.
On the plenum, I bent up some more 3/16" plate to try and get as much volume as I could from the area, while dodging strut tower and brake booster. I ended up with the shape you see there. I had to do it in two pieces to fit in my press brake, so I welded the joint from the inside and outside (which were both chamfered for better penetration). The layout was also done to try and maximize strength in the intake (same reason I did it with 3/16")
I then cut everything to fit and seam welded all of it. The corners were all set to have a very small overlap of about 1/16" so that a good bit of the edges were exposed to be sure that the welds got good, consistent penetration.
All that's left will be to pick up an LS throttle body flange (using a GM 90mm "gold blade" on the car) and fabricate an adapter plate for that. I will also add a doubler plate on the bottom in an area to add strength for tapping NPT ports for vacuum, etc. I may also add a couple standoffs to the bottom to mount up a vacuum manifold block so that's it nicely integrated into the package.
It's not perfect but for a first attempt at something like this, I'm pretty pleased with it, and most importantly it fits and (probably) won't explode when we boost it.
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Impressive work Blake
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Thanks!
Episode 4 is up (and misspelled, apparently):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Op5LbdjeM6M&t=2s
Now you can listen to me blather on for 7-8 more minutes!
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Looking good Blake
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Following. :bacon:
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Thanks guys! Ben ordered a bunch of new parts (I spend lots of my friend’s money...) so we should have more info soon.
We are planning on reworking the videos for more fabrication montage and less me droning in about why we did things that way after the fact. I just don’t have a GoPro currently to record with, and I’ve not been keen to buy one just to document this build.
Anywho, hoping to have the rest of the intake and IC pipes done next weekend, then I’ll do cooling, accessory drive and exhaust, at which point it’s mostly wiring and fuel which is pretty straightforward.
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Progress!
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/1-281019110101-116452019.jpeg)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/1-281019110101-116451815.jpeg)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/1-281019110056-11643805.jpeg)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/1-281019110056-116431138.jpeg)
Waiting on a 3" -> 4" aluminum transition to finish the charge pipes, then it's on to the cooling system. Water pump is in along with most of the piping, hopefully I'll have the cooling system sorted in the next week or two, at which point exhaust will follow.
I've gotten an awful lot of welding practice on this intake manifold, though the thick aluminum is (mostly) pretty forgiving. It's not going on the weld porn sites by any means, but I think it looks pretty good. The throttle body had to go in at a funny angle to leave plenty of clearance for the cam drive/VVTI/cooling and power steering bits. Anyway, bit by bit...
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Oh and I forgot to take pictures of it, but there is a doubler plate on the bottom of the intake that's about 1" x 4" that will have a 1/4 NPT and a pair of 1/8 NPT tapped holes for brake booster and engine air controls/MAP sensor. I did the doubler plate to have more thickness to drill tap.
All pressure sensors will be remote mounted (oil and MAP in this case) from the engine to minimize vibration failure. I may add some bungs to the bottom of the intake to mount the vacuum block underneath it still also as I think that'd be a nice, clean setup.
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making good progress bro
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Making a little more progress; I'll add pics soon.
Charge pipes are all built, though I want to massage the driver side a little bit. Finishing clearancing the hole for the BOV, but it's coming out very nicely.
Working on radiator pipes now; it'll be mostly aluminum tubing with silicone couplers so that I can route it where I want it. The upper pipe has to snake through things and the radiator is low, so I'm going to put an air bleed on the top of it, since it'll be the highest point, but I think it'll work out. If all else fails I'll fabricate/mount a surge tank under the cowl to burp it.
Hoping to have the rest of the parts I need in the next few weeks to get the cooling exhaust systems done and start on the electrical work.
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Looks great! I like the videos!
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Is that an LS DBW throttle body? That intake looks nice, I wish I had a machine to weld aluminum
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Is that an LS DBW throttle body? That intake looks nice, I wish I had a machine to weld aluminum
Thanks guys! Yeah, it's an LS3 style "gold blade" DBW TB. They're hella cheap and flow nice, so I figure no need to reinvent the wheel for it.
Hopefully I'll have parts coming in soon so that I can get more work done on it. Mostly just waiting on parts. I have a start on the coolant pipes, once the rest of that stuff comes in, along with the water pump/radiator fan I should be able to build all of that out and then start on exhaust, which should mostly finish up the fab work.
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Parts are starting to trickle in, I should have more progress over the next couple weeks to share. Just about done with fab...
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New video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mYE-IsXG8D0
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A few pictures:
Modified stock rear heater hose (reclocked and removed the turbo water line:
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/1-201219161257-117892004.jpeg)
Wastegates:
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/1-201219161303-117912013.jpeg)
Cooling stack coming together:
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/1-201219161254-11765719.jpeg)
Trans mount:
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/1-201219161257-11765283.jpeg)
Under the car with the radiator pipes finished up (lower snakes behind the alternator):
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/1-201219161308-117932167.jpeg)
Top side:
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/1-201219161304-117912167.jpeg)
Next is exhaust!
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Harness components for a 2JZ like this:
FWIW, this is with a GM DBW TB and pedal, and all universal sensors, other than the 2JZ Cam, crank and VVTI sensor, plus 2JZ alternator, starter and AC compressor. Everything else is transducers or Delphi style temperature sensors. Using GM LSx coils along with the aforementioned LSx TB and CTS pedal. Also using a T56 Magnum tranny.
KSV Looms:
1x https://www.ksvlooms.com/collections/oem-toyota/products/toyota-mkiv-supra-2jzge-2jzgte-alternator-connector-kit
1x https://www.ksvlooms.com/collections/oem-toyota/products/toyota-supra-2jz-2-pin-cam-angle-position-connector-plug-kit
1x https://www.ksvlooms.com/collections/oem-toyota/products/toyota-supra-2jz-2-pin-crank-angle-position-connector-plug-kit
1x https://www.ksvlooms.com/collections/oem-toyota/products/toyota-lexus-2-pin-vvti-solenoid-valve-connector-plug-clip-kit-90980-11400
1x https://www.ksvlooms.com/collections/oem-toyota/products/toyota-camry-1-pin-starter-connector-plug-kit-fits-228000-6172-28100-03100
2x https://www.ksvlooms.com/collections/oem-toyota/products/toyota-2jz-1-pin-knock-sensor-connector-plug-clip-kit-2jzgte-2jzge
2x https://www.ksvlooms.com/products/gm-air-temp-connector-kit
4x https://www.ksvlooms.com/collections/all-oem-connectors/products/gm-delphi-2-pin-fluid-temperature-sensor-connector-plug-kit
6x https://www.ksvlooms.com/products/delphi-gt150-pressure-transducer-connector-kit
2x https://www.ksvlooms.com/collections/all-deutsch-dt-series/products/mated-dtm-connector-kits-2-way
1x https://www.ksvlooms.com/collections/all-oem-connectors/products/gm-e85-ethanol-2-pin-flex-fuel-sensor-connector-plug-kit-fuel
6x https://www.ksvlooms.com/products/bosch-ev-6-ev14-uscar-2-pin-fuel-injector-connector-kit?_pos=3&_sid=5bc43fd41&_ss=r
2x https://www.ksvlooms.com/collections/all-deutsch-dt-series/products/mated-dtm-connector-kits-8-way
6x https://www.ksvlooms.com/collections/oem-gm/products/gm-coil-connector-kit?_pos=2&_sid=1cda7da22&_ss=r
Wiring Specialties:
1x https://www.wiringspecialties.com/2jzgte-ac-compressor-connector/ ("parts" not pigtail)
1x https://www.wiringspecialties.com/ls1reloco.html ("parts" not pigtail)
1x https://www.wiringspecialties.com/ls1reswco.html ("parts" not pigtail)
Current Performance:
1x http://www.currentperformance.com/shop/ls2-throttle-body-connector/ ("loose pieces")
1x https://www.currentperformance.com/shop/ls2-pedal-connector/ ("loose pieces")
eBay:
1x https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tesa-Tape-51608-Adhesive-Wire-Loom-harness-Cloth-Tape-15m-X-19mm-4-PcsPack/293054502540?epid=22033606431&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item443b68d68c:g:odMAAOSwebheBEY1&enc=AQAEAAACQBPxNw%2BVj6nta7CKEs3N0qUCwkiRXWolUs4FIGujAUzoPT7xeCb9MuIU6JLTEiTzLSxBhn2WeKC6aZwWI64yafDPYwTgT916ht4zkyYKicmH1I3flVQWT3ANLXzJ3ZNcjvLiDh2PHjS0KgI2vOqx38cpAwzVT7ODtcYZocto%2BHWWF65J00X5MSPSa0kqTPHJUFG2S07uSvB024KeUojwOPd%2FoxWL6CyJN8JAx0VRkBgM%2Bjs%2B0aTCVA2i9ykQnUMbjQusL0yhAz%2B2V9WyMYj1h1KFHIBEmn07pTUh01Z%2FeI1Vx5hricUhl0HWFcdTt8fny4My99wfErfJ058cdm%2B8JHCHxsxyjEcxe4Qq4AyMuEySLpq4juKGXTJoCc7tjfoHuU2poTR4i1U7DpqMvh2%2Fdv%2Bjw8OozU5SIpI0uK8Mj790zJE6QdPtVBbD7S6qzm3JQh%2F8R3VcygP%2BfHpn2i8nXWCQsA0H9HDnT%2Bi08ICtwifLgnu79tW8I1JOJM6VSxVjZDCn6vg%2FHT2wGsDzJJJh1gBcGGHhMYAJNa8L%2F462tiRP3t6a5Wm5rKgguZLjyCF1WWt4kPWQRv0dPC%2BjGyS48F7p5hwVJbffrvPbjn8fRqC114CRmNpckFCaJWMrT19qsk1i3iWD1c68X95g%2BTe4pw2bhf637g1erHv8PID2WKYRp5EfTmRSRk7OxP%2BuQ2wf54R56pYmE2US8KK8J1hAhVxGxMU44d1zpAluzGw4aiDTovaMEYbwh8vNJpit4BrCyw%3D%3D&checksum=2930545025406c61b49755204a62b809476d0da23258&enc=AQAEAAACQBPxNw%2BVj6nta7CKEs3N0qUCwkiRXWolUs4FIGujAUzoPT7xeCb9MuIU6JLTEiTzLSxBhn2WeKC6aZwWI64yafDPYwTgT916ht4zkyYKicmH1I3flVQWT3ANLXzJ3ZNcjvLiDh2PHjS0KgI2vOqx38cpAwzVT7ODtcYZocto%2BHWWF65J00X5MSPSa0kqTPHJUFG2S07uSvB024KeUojwOPd%2FoxWL6CyJN8JAx0VRkBgM%2Bjs%2B0aTCVA2i9ykQnUMbjQusL0yhAz%2B2V9WyMYj1h1KFHIBEmn07pTUh01Z%2FeI1Vx5hricUhl0HWFcdTt8fny4My99wfErfJ058cdm%2B8JHCHxsxyjEcxe4Qq4AyMuEySLpq4juKGXTJoCc7tjfoHuU2poTR4i1U7DpqMvh2%2Fdv%2Bjw8OozU5SIpI0uK8Mj790zJE6QdPtVBbD7S6qzm3JQh%2F8R3VcygP%2BfHpn2i8nXWCQsA0H9HDnT%2Bi08ICtwifLgnu79tW8I1JOJM6VSxVjZDCn6vg%2FHT2wGsDzJJJh1gBcGGHhMYAJNa8L%2F462tiRP3t6a5Wm5rKgguZLjyCF1WWt4kPWQRv0dPC%2BjGyS48F7p5hwVJbffrvPbjn8fRqC114CRmNpckFCaJWMrT19qsk1i3iWD1c68X95g%2BTe4pw2bhf637g1erHv8PID2WKYRp5EfTmRSRk7OxP%2BuQ2wf54R56pYmE2US8KK8J1hAhVxGxMU44d1zpAluzGw4aiDTovaMEYbwh8vNJpit4BrCyw%3D%3D&checksum=2930545025406c61b49755204a62b809476d0da23258
Order the following from this link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/CLEAN-CUT-SLEEVING-MADE-IN-USA/233004494262?hash=item3640266db6:m:mHhZZbNaxylH6Pvp6RNXBGQ
All black:
10' 1/8"
20' 1/4"
20' 3/8"
20' 1/2"
20' 3/4"
10' 1"
Amazon:
1x https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N2N5H6Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Also using a couple wiring kits from DIY Autotune and a bunch of heat shrink that I always have handy.
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Wow, KVS has great prices on connectors. That ebay link for braided loom is also a great price.
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KSV ships quick too, I really like them.
Exhaust work!
A little dark, but the 4" exhaust from the turbo back to the muffler is in place. It goes OVER the axle which was a real SOB, there's less then 3/8" clearance anywhere in that area, but it actually sits dead center in that clearance, so I'm happy with it. I had to notch the panhard bar to chassis reinforcement brace, but so far that's the only modification. I reused the factory exhaust mount locations (albeit with new hangers) at the muffler and added my own to the transmission/torque arm mount. The main section under the floorboard is oval tube which was leftover from the old build.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/1-140120115149-11913169.jpeg)
At the rear, there's a Borla 4" race muffler which then comes out to dual 3" tips. The path for the passenger side tip is going to be somewhat torturous, but the owner wanted to keep these tips, so it is what it is. It'll flow fine. The passenger tip isn't tube'd up yet in these photos (bluetooth exhaust!), but will be soon.
Tips in place (man these are dark... sorry):
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/1-140120115149-119131832.jpeg)
Muffler in place (it's missing one mount in these photos so it's ever so slightly off level):
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/1-140120115153-119151271.jpeg)
And the routing to the driver side tip (I'm actually pretty pleased with how this came out):
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/1-140120115154-119152296.jpeg)
The piping to the passenger tip will basically "t" in between the muffler outlet 90* bend and the 4" - 3" reducer with another 3" pipe and will run between the muffler and the heat shield over to the passenger side. Each tip is on a 3" v band to allow it to be aligned "just so" and the muffler is on one as well to (a) make it easy to install/remove and (b) allow the entire assembly with both tips to be leveled/angled properly.
This setup ought to flow more than enough for 1000+ RWHP and hopefully sound pretty good.
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I totally missed this was an LT1 car! Did he sell all the LT1 parts already? Also the Exhaust looks awesome and should sound good with that big Borla
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It would be neat to connect to passenger side tip to the pre-muffler exhaust via a cutout. Kinda like how a lot of OEM exotics and performance cars do with dual- mode exhaust. It would be a little lame to have an in-op exhaust tip for quet mode, but it'd be fun to have an open loud switch when you want it. And you avoid having to do a 180* after the muffler.
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I totally missed this was an LT1 car! Did he sell all the LT1 parts already? Also the Exhaust looks awesome and should sound good with that big Borla
Yeah, I think it's all gone; the motor was thrashed as the block shifted under the power.
It would be neat to connect to passenger side tip to the pre-muffler exhaust via a cutout. Kinda like how a lot of OEM exotics and performance cars do with dual- mode exhaust. It would be a little lame to have an in-op exhaust tip for quet mode, but it'd be fun to have an open loud switch when you want it. And you avoid having to do a 180* after the muffler.
I offered that up but he didn't want that setup! :)
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Yeah, I think it's all gone; the motor was thrashed as the block shifted under the power.
That is crazy!
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Exhaust!
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/1-190120221553-119491944.jpeg)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/1-190120221553-11949669.jpeg)
Overall:
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/1-190120221556-119512267.jpeg)
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And another video update:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BYu--XTuvbI
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Wiring is in process.
Basic harness, TXL wire, techflex with heat shrink labels and dual wall at the branches. About 1/2 done with the harness feeding the ECU thus far.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/1-270120124051-119521890.jpeg)
This picture shows basically all of the visible harness minus the injectors and coils. Most of it is hidden under the intake manifold:
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/1-270120124051-119521620.jpeg)
The harness is setup with the following, for those curious:
1x crank sensor (ECU)
1x cam sensor (ECU)
1x VVTI control (ECU)
2x oil pressure sensor (ECU + gauge)
2x fuel pressure sensor (ECU + gauge)
2x manifold pressure (ECU + gauge)
1x radiator pressure (ECU)
1x intake air temp (ECU)
2x water temp (ECU + gauge)
1x oil temp (ECU)
2x wideband (ECU + gauge)
1x EGT (gauge)
1x VSS (ECU)
1x backup light (chassis)
1x reverse lockout (ECU)
6x coil (LS coils to ECU)
6x injectors
1x DBW throttle body (ECU)
1x DBW pedal (ECU)
1x flex fuel (ECU)
2x fuel pump control (ECU)
2x fan control (ECU)
1x AC trinary switch (chassis/ECU)
1x AC compressor (chassis/ECU)
1x Alternator (chassis)
1x boost control solenoid (ECU)
1x traction control (maybe, not sure how to integrate with F-Body ABS yet)
1x ECU map control switch (ECU)
Gauges are:
Speedhut: Speedo (ECU driven), Tacho (ECU driven), oil pressure, water temp, fuel level, something I'm forgetting, voltage maybe? dunno, it's in my garage, LOL
Other (ProSport? can't remember): Fuel pressure, boost pressure
Wideband/EGT - Zeitronix, was already in the chassis
I think that's everything... this is actually a fairly simple build as far as wiring goes, but it still take a while. I'll be using the stock GM chassis connectors to power everything and route as many signals as possible in the stock harness. It's funny, because it's the opposite of an LS/LT harness conversion for an RX7, where I'm connecting an F-Body engine harness to another chassis, instead I'm connecting a custom harness to an F-Body chassis harness. LOL
Anywho, all new GM connectors to tie into the chassis stuff are en route, as is a new OE grommet. This and the gauges is about it for the car for now as we're going to put it on hold for a little bit while my buddy gets funds setup for the engine build/clutch/ECU/sensors/driveshaft/fuel system/etc. Once this car gets mothballed for a bit I'll be back to wiring my Mustang up.
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nice work! I wish we were closer, if I build that FB I am talking about in the lounge it would be a cool match up and video
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So, lots of progress but no interesting pictures. The engine harness is almost done; I have all of the engine side of it finished out (minus the tranny sub harness and the coil sub harness because I don't have coils yet). The ECU is pinned fully, all that is left is splices for the 5V, reference ground, IGN, relays, etc. and then connections that run back into the interior for all the gauges and such.
Hoping to finish at least the splicing and relay hookups this weekend, and hopefully get the engine bay side chassis wiring (basically fused IGN+ feeds and fan control) done this weekend. I repurposed the F-Body fan control system to run the Volvo fan (with a Deutsch connector on it now) in single speed mode. I'm also going to use the ECU to run the transmission pump (apparently the Magnum can have a pump fitted easily?).
Once the wiring is mostly tidied up, I'm going to sort out some of the gauge cluster layout, and then this car is going on vacation while he preps to get the engine/fuel system/electronics purchased and I'll get mine back to do the exhaust, wiring, steering, etc. before the weather gets nice.
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i came to the conclusion of i work to slow or you work to fast lol
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I'm also going to use the ECU to run the transmission pump (apparently the Magnum can have a pump fitted easily?).
Magnum has provision for a mechanical pump mounted in the front cover rather like SS Camaro, we used ours to circulate the oil through the original RX engine oil cooler rad.
http://www.pozziracing.com/Bowler%20Performance%20Transmission%20oil%20pump.html
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I need to update this thread, the car is back at my house under construction. Fuel system is done, and the engine should be back from the builder (Naber Racing) this week. Hoping to start final assembly soon and if all goes well, have it running in 6-8 weeks.
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Okay, so actually LOTS of progress, but here's where we are:
Fuel system is installed; this is setup as follows:
Primary pump (IGN switched); Racetronix Walbro 340
Secondary pump (PWM by ECU); Deatschwerks Brushless 440
Secondary pump gets 18V power from MSD 2351 voltage booster.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/1-230920121810-12586946.jpeg)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/1-230920121810-12586733.jpeg)
Engine is assembled. It was all done by Naber Racing (https://naberracing.com/) and in the car. Don't mind the washer stacks on the motor mount bolts, that's been sorted (proper length bolts in now):
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/1-230920093623-125841439.jpeg)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/1-230920093604-12581679.jpeg)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/1-230920093601-125801049.jpeg)
And, ECU wiring is nearly there. I have the a pillar gauges wired up, ECU power and engine harness is done, just working on connecting a few chassis systems up under the dash and getting AC stuff setup.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/1-230920093553-125781473.jpeg)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/1-230920093553-125781729.jpeg)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/1-230920093605-12581611.jpeg)
And here's where the shifter ended up. About 1.5" aft of stock, pretty happy with that:
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/1-230920093609-125833.jpeg)
Working on finishing wiring/plumbing next, and ordering a driveshaft, then put the rest of the exhaust on, check everything over and it should be ready for a test fire!
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Heater hoses are in:
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/1-280920110749-125941681.jpeg)
And overall engine bay as it stands (intake still has to come in/out a few times, but it's close to final install):
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/1-280920110755-125941918.jpeg)
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looking good i am glad that shifter work for your friend
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So, coil fitment with the IGN1A coils is a real pain. Gotta sort this out next. Yay, custom everything!
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Transmission pump to cool/lube the head gear on long pulls:
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/1-041020191841-12604703.jpeg)
Turbo drain in:
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/1-041020191835-126021589.jpeg)
Starter power wire and other low fitting stuff managed up properly:
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/1-041020191835-126022034.jpeg)
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This freaking 2JZ-GE VVTI head is a real PITA.
We were originally doing D585 coils, but the owner of the car talked to the builder who said he won't run them because he heard someone ELSE had a failure and nuked a piston. I'd assume it was an issue of messing with dwell as I know 585s will auto fire if you jack with the dwell, but regardless, he went IGN1A instead. So now I get to rewire everything and add a new coil power circuit to supply them. And mount them. And because of that GE VVTI head, none of the off the shelf coil brackets for IGN1As fit. Luckily a good friend of mine owns RIZR CNC, which makes some universal brackets. I welded those to the valve covers and boom, we have coil brackets!
I also had to redo the coolant pipes, as they contact the PS pump (or make getting it in almost impossible). I -did- manage to get the PS pump to clear the intake/throttle body, but about 1/16", which is fine since they're both mounted to the engine rigidly. Next is some lines and a reservoir. I'll likely have to move the ABS pump a little and will definitely need to move the line lock, but I think that will finish PS off. I need to test fit the dip-stick also.
I also rewired the injectors for the ones he bought (FIC 2600s) as they original plugs were wrong. That's fine as the layout of the original harness was slightly 'meh' in that area anyway, so it fits much better now. Hoping to get the last couple of under hood wiring touchups finished next week and start cleaning up the last of the interior wiring. Driveshaft should be here next week at which point I can put fluid in the tranny and I'll get oil in the transmission. Clutch hydraulics need mounted to the firewall, but are otherwise done and ready to bleed. Need 1-2 more fittings to come in and I can finish the fuel system, at which point I should be able to put everything back together and put coolant in it and maybe see if it'll start.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/1-181020125349-126231857.jpeg)
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It's ALMOST ready. Hoping to have it fired next week (hoping anyway).
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/1-081120200244-126842070.jpeg)
Exhaust is finished, oil, cooling, fuel, and turbo systems are done. Transmission is in, shifter is in, driveshaft is in, rear end and brakes are done, clutch is setup, coils are mounted, engine bay wiring is almost done.
Left to do:
Mount throttle pedal
Build transmission sub harness
Build coil sub harness
Wire control for transmission fluid pump
Wire gauges
Clean up some interior wiring
Test all sensors
Test fuel system
Set fuel pressure
START THE CAR!
Pressure test cooling system
Change plugs/oil after break-in
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Nice and clean!
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Working on leaks right now. So far everything we've put fluid in leaked, haha. Radiator drain plug was loose, fixed that. It appears oil drain plug was loose, I'll fix that tomorrow. Fuel lines were leaking (loose). LOL. Guess I need to nut and bolt a few things on it. Power steering reservoir hose is also leaking (that's annoying to change...).
Anyway, I'll work that stuff out the next couple of days and start finishing up wiring and it should be ready to fire up!
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Do you lube the threads on AN fittings and such? I noticed on some used stuff fuel system stuff from a helicopter that all the threads were well lubed. Apparently this prevents galling as well as lowering assembly torque.
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I generally hit them with some wd40 on initial install, yeah. Particularly on large ones as they seem to gall up easily.
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I generally put a drop or 2 of hose assembly lube on the female threads, and let it run into the swivel joint to lube the collar.
I also put a dab on the sealing surface before connecting.
I've only ever had a couple that leaked using this method.
Be careful not to overtighten AN fittings, as I cracked the cone once,causing a leak that got worse when tightened further.
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Caught up on your build here, this is all kinds of awesome and it just fits so well in that bay in that perfect for drag racing way. Saw the video of Cooper from FF doing shakedowns in his 2J f-body, looks like fun.
I may have missed it, but what is your weight and balance now compared to before with all the cleanup and changes for the track?
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I don’t know balance before but I’ll scale it before it leaves. I’ll ask him what it weighed with the big turbo LT1 that was in it before. Front suspension sits like 1.5” taller now though.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gGkRkDjkaV0&ab_channel=CALL911Z28
It lives!
been fighting with some cylinders not firing. That's sorted now (I think) but the high idle issue is still kicking. Might try to swap throttle bodies and see if that gets me anywhere.
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Nice update! Where did you get that plastic curtain??
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Thanks! I put it in when I built the house actually. It’s a godsend, 100% worth it. I think I paid 450-500 with the slider track.
On the 2JZ front, we still can’t get it running right. The engine builder was on a share with me yesterday and is fairly sure the cam sensor has an issue. I’m going to go back over some wiring and replace that sensor and see if it cleans up.
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The 2J fits nicely in there, looks right at home.
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Update!
So my fabricated intake manifold was warped on the head side flange. The throttle body flange was fine, at least. Machine shop is planing the flange this week.
Hopefully once that goes in, everything should work properly. I’ve been dialing in the rest of it, and I think that basically all other systems are working properly. Assuming that it will idle properly and respond to tuning inputs I make, it should be ready to go to the tuner.
Once that’s all done, I think all that is left is getting cruise control, AC and traction control working which will be springtime tasks.
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It runs!
Worked on the tune today and it fires right up and idles/revs. That’s the end of my tuning so it goes off to a pro to dial it in for drivability.
Video Update: (from just before I worked on the tune for a good idle)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NlwpXKsukko
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I hate that idle game right after a install. Not sure if its coils, or tune the time you mess with stuff and naturally think the coils are new and should be good.
I wanted to add a timing stall preventer to the idle map so bad to get it to smooth out and idle but I think your smart when you said I could take the time to learn this but when a guy knows them, let him do it.
I can't believe how good they(2JZ) sound!
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It sounds MUCH better now that I got the idle sorted out, too. Car is supposed to be off to the tuner this week, the owner stopped by today to sort out the brakes and change the oil.
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Wonder what caused it to warp like that. Maybe stress relieved itself during powder coating?
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That’s my guess. I had it bolted down when I welded it and I checked it (though only minimally) when I was done. It could have been twisted and warped a little, but I’d have caught an 1/8”, for sure. Weird. Seems to be all good now though, so whatever I guess.
The throttle flange was fine, at least. :)
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So, this car is back.
The original setup made 1350 to the tire. The owner swapped to a different weight of oil vs. recommended by the builder and it spat out some bearings (big clearance motors and all that). Engine was rebuilt, car was working well, but we're now having sporadic "weird" running behavior and ECU over temp alerts.
I went though it and put a new throttle body on it (has a GM DBW) and tested all the transducers. No issues. Harness -seems- fine, but right now our only thought is that something was damaged when it was torn apart for the engine rebuild. Anyway, since the owner is a good friend of mine, I'm doing a full Tefzel/Raychem DR25 setup on it. We're not going to pot and swap the connectors to Deutsch/Mil-Spec stuff or anything, or do booted transitions (just using SCL and epoxy), etc. so it's not a full on mil-spec harness, but it should be very nice. It is all concentric twisted, which is such a PITA. I'm also moving the Haltech out of the engine bay into the footwell.
Anywho, I ripped out the old harness and started on the new one yesterday. I have the engine side assembled/twisted/sheathed, and built the engine bay chassis side layout. Next is to integrate the engine bay chassis section into the rest of it. Then I'll terminate the engine bay connections, and start the final integration at the ECU (shield drains, power/ground/5v splices, etc) and then finally terminate the ECU and retest it all.
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Should put a Barra in it!
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Forgive the sorrowful state of my garage. I have a multiple half-disassembled cars and a whole bunch of parts stacked everywhere.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RUuVwkezIeI
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What ECU will it be running? Assume you're using the shield as the sGND as well or are they VR?
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It's on a Haltech Elite 2500.
They're VR sensors for both. Old school stuff. :D
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This is awesome.. I need friends like you guys.
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Haha, thanks. This car has been a huge amount of work. My friend that owns it should have another video up soon.
I finished the harness yesterday and put the car back together. So far, so good. The issue with the ECU going over temperature seems to be solved. I ran the car for 45 minutes yesterday and it stayed under 110* F which seems pretty normal to me. It was up near 200* in 15-20 minutes before. It also ran better than I've seen it run in quite some time. I'm not really sure WHAT was damaged with the old harness; the new one is an exact clone as far as design goes. Just fresh, upgraded wires and some minor layout improvements (and a bit more shielding in a few areas).
All that's left to do now is put in a different tach that he wants to swap to, and put the main/pillar gauges back together, then he can come get it.
On the "my friends have cool cars" topic, I went to see a friend with a cammed LS3 in a super clean BRZ yesterday as well. Did a quick VATS delete/tune adjustment on it for first fire up. He did a great job on that build so far as it literally fired right up (once I actually wrote the ECU properly) and ran great, which is not something I normally see on brand new builds!
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Finished this thing up and my friend picked it up Saturday morning. Nice to have the garage back!
So far, so good on the "new harness fixed it all". One more item off the list, at least.