NoRotors.com - RX7 Engine Swap Forum
Technical Information => Build Threads => Topic started by: danny33 on December 21, 2015, 08:48:52 PM
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Figured id share this build here as ive been creeping around this forum for a few years scheming up this build until i graduated from school. My goal was to build a silly street car for "drifting purposes" on the weekends. I will also be doing everything by myself and learning along the way. Im into aggressive styling and take alot of influence from the japanese time attack scene. I refuse to let this become another build that never gets finished on here so please hold me to that
Sooo since this is my most frequented forum and all of a sudden all these sweet RX7 build threads have appeared i decided to join the party! so quick rewind back to last year to get caught up.
searched for months for a clean platform with one goal in mind. but more on that later.
picked this minty girl up easter 2014 with 92K miles on it. sorry for the poopy pics, these were all taken before i had a real camera LOL
PHOTO DUMP DUE TO PHOTBUCKET FUCK UP.
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CD009 VS Stock NA 5 speed size
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4318/35905615552_4f5bc08639_c.jpg)
Trans mounts removed from chassis using a spot weld drill bit.
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Current parts list. Will be updated as im sure things are missing.
DRIVETRAIN
-2007 G35 CD009 transmission
-Serialnine CD999 Shifter
-Collins 2JZ/CD adapter plate
-Collins single plate flywheel
-ACT Sprung 6 puck HD
-custom 3” steel driveshaft @ 34-7/16”
-Turbo II housing; Kaaz 1.5 way LSD
-350Z slave cylinder, Wilwood 5/8” master cylinder. Stu kelly adapter/ stock pushrod
-Chasebays custom -3AN clutch line @ 33”
-Custom transmission mount
ENGINE
-Stock block/ head 2JZ VVTI
-Kyle Ridout GTE twin scroll/ twin gate manifold
-Twin Tial MVS 38MM
-Borg warner SXE S362.
-USDM Supra intake manifold and throttle body
-Mocal thermostat oil sandwhich plate/ drift motion sensor block
-Front sump 2JZ pan
-10AN recirculated breather system with catchcan
-Modified FD RX7 throttle cable
-Ford IAC valve/ PHR adapter plate
-Tial Q BOV
COOLING
-Mishimoto S13 Radiator
-Mishimoto dual slim fan kit
-OEM FC oil cooler
-CX Racing intercooler
-modified PBM swirl pot
EMS/IGNITION/ELECTRICAL
-AEM infinity 506
-Induction performance IGN1A coil kit
-Custom Milspec wiring harness
-Tuned by Vlad at National speed
FUEL
-twin walbro 450 E85 pumps
-built2apex dual pump hanger
-8 feed and -6 return
-fuel lab FPR set at 43.5PSI
-ID1000 Injectors
-Radium -8 fuel rail
-Radium fuel filter
-Continental ethanol content sensor
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PHOTODUMP. FUCK PHOTBUCKET
Engine/ trans going in for the first test fit. Cd009 trans and excessive FC engine mounts.
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Kyle ridout manifold. Awesome quality and great guy to work with.
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BW SXE S362
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Picked up a turbo II housing with Kaaz 1.5way LSD in it. Running full PBM rear catalog.
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SerialniCEE CD999 shifter kit
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This is not the final location, engine was dropped 1" and then moved forward .5"
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Deleted- bunch of pictured of some aero i was building but ended up selling off the BN kit and donating the rear widebody fenders to a friends chump car team
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Mock up of radiator, intercooler, and oil cooler. The fab shop used the existing mounts i made in this picture and then reinforced everything and added bracing so this is the general location of everything for reference. Radiator is a mishimoto SR13 with their dual slim fan setup. Intercooler is a CX racing unit.
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Street faction bashbar
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8743/28722315842_4d846f8c31_c.jpg)
Exhaust tacked up and mock up of intake and some other stuff.
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8855/28722357872_62bc3b6e2a_c.jpg)
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At some point i tore the car back apart, raised the suspension as high as it would go, and then shipped it to Dallas where i would be moving. Arrived at my new place
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Waiting for room to open at the fab shop, i wrapped all my interior plastics in carbon fiber
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4320/36073515805_c1aac53eec_c.jpg)
Car came back from getting intercooler piping, water hardlines, trans mount, and some other small stuff. I was happy with the work that late apex fabrication and race prep did.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4329/35904003272_45c9c9de79_c.jpg)
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As i requested, they chopped the excessive mounts and lowered the engine close to another inch in the front. This allowed it to clear the stock hood with the skeleton cut when using a stock ignition setup.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4306/35684174450_68234b0370_c.jpg)
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SCROLL TO PAGE 5 POST 73 TO CONTINUE BECAUSE PHOTBUCKET RUINED THIS THREAD.
TEASER
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4516/38634661062_10786bbccc_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21S1JHU)DSC_4551 (https://flic.kr/p/21S1JHU) by dan reyno (https://www.flickr.com/photos/145963965@N07/), on Flickr
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Cool swap. I liked the car better with the stock body and aero. Your diffuser flat skirts and lip looked good. Its your car though so do what you like.
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Cool swap. I liked the car better with the stock body and aero. Your diffuser flat skirts and lip looked good. Its your car though so do what you like.
I was thinking the same thing as I was scrolling down the pictures. Maybe the finished product will look different though. Nice swap!
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LIke some 2jz...
think your tires are a little small for the 'reeims' though.
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Nice progress. That thing is low!
I agree on the aero pieces. I don't get what the draw is to those drift body kits than flare out at the bottom and make the car look like it is wearing a skirt. It seems like they would just hit more stuff while drifting?
Interested to see how this tuns out.
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i dont want to make this a debate, but i thought it was perfect as well stock bodied!
great work though. its build treads like this that make me want to build an fc so badly. >.<
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Stock body fte
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I'm iterested to see how the shifter turns out. Pretty sweet project!
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What part of Michigan. Ann Arbor here and there are some more out towards Royal Oak.
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Drift buddy of mine ONLY uses fiberglass bumpers. Even if they dont look as good... Reason? "Because if I hit something i want the bumper to break into pieces and not drag under the car" ..... Valid reason I guess.
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What part of Michigan. Ann Arbor here and there are some more out towards Royal Oak.
i am also in royal oak!
Drift buddy of mine ONLY uses fiberglass bumpers. Even if they dont look as good... Reason? "Because if I hit something i want the bumper to break into pieces and not drag under the car" ..... Valid reason I guess.
haha everyone seems alittle upset about the aero! i picked it up for a great deal. I love my stock body setup aswell so we shall see if the aero actually makes it on. My priority is to get the car running and the bugs worked out before worrying about the looks.
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sell me the stock stuff and call it a day :D
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I'm interested to know what you're doing for hood clearance. I'm running a 1j in mine and that is my current hurdle. Cam cover is too high, as are the intercooler pipes.
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im going to trim it then use a URAS style vent
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If yours is anything like mine, I don't think the uras vent is wide enough
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Great looking build so far, going to be following thise closely as I just picked up a 87 Tii that has a blown motor and I've been thinking about what to swap in. Can I ask you what 2jz do you have? There are so many models and being new to them thats where Im stuck right now. Not sure what to research and what to go for. Thanks
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I love your car. Needed to know where to buy all the gold parts for the rear end bushings and shocks. I have an 89 Turbo II with ls-1/t56 but got a lot of wheel hop. Need advice or directions in what to do and where to go. Thank you
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I love your car. Needed to know where to buy all the gold parts for the rear end bushings and shocks. I have an 89 Turbo II with ls-1/t56 but got a lot of wheel hop. Need advice or directions in what to do and where to go. Thank you
Thank you! Everything suspension wise is parts shop max (PBM) at partsshopmax.com. I have all of their rear end bushings and links which made a huge difference. I would think the solid diff mount/ subframe bushings combo would eliminate any wheel hop issues you are encountering.
Great looking build so far, going to be following thise closely as I just picked up a 87 Tii that has a blown motor and I've been thinking about what to swap in. Can I ask you what 2jz do you have? There are so many models and being new to them thats where Im stuck right now. Not sure what to research and what to go for. Thanks
Thanks, this is a 2jz-gte VVTI from a 2000 aristo. The VVTI units are typically around $400 cheaper because people are afraid they are harder to tune. Read this article which lays all the VVTI myths to rest http://www.kaizenmotorsports.com/blogs/news/16740952-the-1jz-2jz-gte-vvti-system (http://www.kaizenmotorsports.com/blogs/news/16740952-the-1jz-2jz-gte-vvti-system)
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nice swap, my buddy just did a 1JZ VVTi in his S13 vert. Love the color and wheel choice.
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Looking good, definitely a good call go with AN lines for the power steering. Make sure the hose you get is PTFE lined and rated for extreme pressre
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swap looks cool man!
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Damn that manifold is beautiful.
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Definitely subscribed. Glad I came across your build, going to be doing the same exact thing within the next month. :cheers:
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Nice build man, very impressive list of parts! I'm building a vvti 1jz fc atm, I'm going to compy what you've done with the heater hoses haha
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turbo looks massive, jealous of your patience and your parts
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beautiful work.
8)
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LOVE IT.
Random Q, is that an S366?
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beautiful work.
8)
Thank you sir.
LOVE IT.
Random Q, is that an S366?
no, its an S362 (8376). looking to be as responsive as possible.
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Wonderful work man! That looks fanfrickintastic, can't wait to hear this thing scream. :bacon:
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Love the exhaust set up :D
Really nice work, have you looked at getting a 135 degree fitting for the fuel rail? You could also get a 90 degree adapter for the end of the fuel rail, should be shorter than the 90 degree hose end you have on there now.
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nice work! love the detail
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Where did you get the caster plates like that? And how do you adjust camber seperate from caster with that setup
Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk
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Where did you get the caster plates like that? And how do you adjust camber seperate from caster with that setup
Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk
Parts shop max coil overs, they are just sorta dope like that.
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Consider doing a billet tensioner bracket if it's not too late to get in there.
I love how you are able to buy a cheap mount kit and drop these into the FC. On the FD its total pain in the ass.
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I love this car. Full interior and an exhaust that exits in the back would be a must for me but its still cool. ;)
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Thanks for the detailed pics on the engine maintenance. I can use this for reference while working on mine.
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Where did you get the caster plates like that? And how do you adjust camber seperate from caster with that setup
Using the lower strut mounts like you usually would. these are the standard PBM units.
I love this car. Full interior and an exhaust that exits in the back would be a must for me but its still cool. ;)
Thank you. The hood exit will go away eventually but i always wanted an exhaust dumping out the hood so it will be there until i get tired of it... or in trouble. Still have all the mint red interior and it will definitely be going back in.
Thanks for the detailed pics on the engine maintenance. I can use this for reference while working on mine.
No problem.
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sweet banshee, congrats on the job. Gotta get some work benches set up in that new garage!
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Loving the build! Quick Question is that SR Radiator the s13 or s14 one?
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Honestly made this account cause of your build. Solid work man!
Glad to see the move went well and everything was shipped in one piece.
Have to ask; how are you going about the starter location for the transmission? Also, the trans' cross member.
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sweet banshee, congrats on the job. Gotta get some work benches set up in that new garage!
Thank you. i just got my power tools shipped to me so work benches are on the to do list.
Loving the build! Quick Question is that SR Radiator the s13 or s14 one?
99.9% sure it is the S13 one.
Honestly made this account cause of your build. Solid work man!
Glad to see the move went well and everything was shipped in one piece.
Have to ask; how are you going about the starter location for the transmission? Also, the trans' cross member.
Thanks man! The starter uses the stock location (underneath the intake) using the collins flywheel. If all goes to plan, the car will be going to the fab shop in 2 weeks for the trans mount, intercooler piping, water hardlines, and final welding on the radiator support and exhaust/ intake.
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Updatee
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This is sick!!! Such a huge inspiration for my dreams haha...
Just became the new owner of a 2JZ-GTE non VVTi :)
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I also conviniently own a 90' FC3S
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So stoked to start a build like this and yours is too clean not to replicate.
Hope all is going well with the build, once I get my engine back from the machine shop I'm going to start a thread.
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This is sick!!! Such a huge inspiration for my dreams haha...
Just became the new owner of a 2JZ-GTE non VVTi :)
I also conviniently own a 90' FC3S
So stoked to start a build like this and yours is too clean not to replicate.
Hope all is going well with the build, once I get my engine back from the machine shop I'm going to start a thread.
Awesome man, let me know if you have any questions.
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nice workbench!! also can't help but laugh at the change in purpose for the car, moves to tx, wants a "street" car. TX2K looked like fun and that R33 plate is clutch!
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nice workbench!! also can't help but laugh at the change in purpose for the car, moves to tx, wants a "street" car. TX2K looked like fun and that R33 plate is clutch!
Haha, i actually have been leaning that way for awhile. i would like to drift it also but i dont want to bang up this mostly clean chassis. I just want to enjoy cruising the streets this summer although it will suck without A/C.
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Haha, i actually have been leaning that way for awhile. i would like to drift it also but i dont want to bang up this mostly clean chassis. I just want to enjoy cruising the streets this summer although it will suck without A/C.
I understand totally chassis is in great shape. Would you keep all the aero and stuff on for street duties?
Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
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[ Also my purpose for this car has shifted slightly from being a drift car to now being a street car. With the additional power i will be making (and after seeing all the nasty supras at TX2K) i want to do a 15 or 16 inch RPF1 on radials for the streets. Any V8 turbo guys have any tire size recommendations for pulled stock body rears on an FC?
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I've got some RPF1 16x8's with 255 50 MT drag radials that I use on the street on my FC. They work pretty good.
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Just noticed you are in NY based on the plates. Where about? i am in Rochester.
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Just noticed you are in NY based on the plates. Where about? i am in Rochester.
Originally from Nyack, NY but then spent 2 years in Detroit and now i live in Dallas lol
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Nice progress, quick tip you can use an additional zip tie or some rubber tubing to hold a space between the lines when you zip tie them together. What dunes are you going to? Glamis would be blazing in June
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This build is too fucking rad... I cannot wait to get started on mine.
Awesome stuff man!
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Nice progress, quick tip you can use an additional zip tie or some rubber tubing to hold a space between the lines when you zip tie them together. What dunes are you going to? Glamis would be blazing in June
Thanks, that was just temporary but thats a good idea. And little sahara dunes in waynoka, OK
This build is too fucking rad... I cannot wait to get started on mine.
Awesome stuff man!
thank you!!
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Who made you that custom transmission mount, and they make me one without my car? Question; on the welds at the floorboard is there anything on the inside cabin part of it?
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Who made you that custom transmission mount, and they make me one without my car? Question; on the welds at the floorboard is there anything on the inside cabin part of it?
A shop down here in fort worth. No, there are not any plates on the inside of the chassis. Not sure i would recommend going through this shop, i am still fighting with them to get back my 2 dump tubes and throttle body which i have been waiting for 5 weeks to get. Have heard close to every excuse in the book at this point and i am not happy. i can take more pics for you next time im out in the garage if youd like.
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So this photobucket bullshit is really disappointing. i have flipped over my current stuff to flickr but not sure if i will get around to converting the entire thread over. May do a cliff notes version and answer questions if there are any. Anyways, just got my infinity 506 stand alone and found a crazy deal on the DMC crimper i need for the pins in the milspec connector i will be ordering shortly. It is consistently 100*+ in my garage which makes it hard to find motivation to work on this thing. I have reinstalled my engine harness and the chassis harness so now just planning things out and getting ready for final wiring. Still need to order some battery cable, wire strippers, and another crimp tool for battery cable lugs and the infinity connector plugs. This weekend i hope to get the hood cut for the exhaust and do a mock up on ECU location to confirm the harness length.
Here is a quick run through to get us caught up from when she came back from the fab shop.
before moving to texas
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8855/28722357872_62bc3b6e2a_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/KL6AjL)DSC_2118 (https://flic.kr/p/KL6AjL) by dan reyno (https://www.flickr.com/photos/145963965@N07/), on Flickr
Right when she got back
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4300/36033024276_74dc5e4cb9_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WU7EKf)DSC_2637 (https://flic.kr/p/WU7EKf) by dan reyno (https://www.flickr.com/photos/145963965@N07/), on Flickr
engine mounts got shortened which dropped the engine almost an inch.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4291/35903998612_418480b036_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WGHnUQ)DSC_2529 (https://flic.kr/p/WGHnUQ) by dan reyno (https://www.flickr.com/photos/145963965@N07/), on Flickr
IC setup
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4327/35684175790_95036fc1f1_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WnhJfb)DSC_2522 (https://flic.kr/p/WnhJfb) by dan reyno (https://www.flickr.com/photos/145963965@N07/), on Flickr
Battery tray setup
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4297/35903997862_fc769b5cc2_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WGHnFU)DSC_2532 (https://flic.kr/p/WGHnFU) by dan reyno (https://www.flickr.com/photos/145963965@N07/), on Flickr
Exhaust welded and catch can mounted
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4303/35904000132_cb79889b56_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WGHon3)DSC_2525 (https://flic.kr/p/WGHon3) by dan reyno (https://www.flickr.com/photos/145963965@N07/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4291/35904001672_8b207c6e9b_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WGHoPA)DSC_2523 (https://flic.kr/p/WGHoPA) by dan reyno (https://www.flickr.com/photos/145963965@N07/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4318/35684176550_b6a294771d_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WnhJth)DSC_2524 (https://flic.kr/p/WnhJth) by dan reyno (https://www.flickr.com/photos/145963965@N07/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4329/35904003272_45c9c9de79_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WGHpib)DSC_2519 (https://flic.kr/p/WGHpib) by dan reyno (https://www.flickr.com/photos/145963965@N07/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4296/35684177290_42178fdafd_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WnhJG3)DSC_2521 (https://flic.kr/p/WnhJG3) by dan reyno (https://www.flickr.com/photos/145963965@N07/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4308/35684177770_27afa9c3ea_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WnhJQj)DSC_2520 (https://flic.kr/p/WnhJQj) by dan reyno (https://www.flickr.com/photos/145963965@N07/), on Flickr
This was the solution to the broken alternator mount ear on the block. Also allows adjustment for the belt tension
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4306/36033025686_388e4a01ee_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WU7Fay)DSC_2564 (https://flic.kr/p/WU7Fay) by dan reyno (https://www.flickr.com/photos/145963965@N07/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4293/36033027726_9f2e48ea79_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WU7FLJ)DSC_2601 (https://flic.kr/p/WU7FLJ) by dan reyno (https://www.flickr.com/photos/145963965@N07/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4326/35904121452_945d548975_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WGJ1qL)DSC_2598 (https://flic.kr/p/WGJ1qL) by dan reyno (https://www.flickr.com/photos/145963965@N07/), on Flickr
Pulled everything off and painted it black
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4314/36033026936_141d01a8d7_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WU7Fx7)DSC_2620 (https://flic.kr/p/WU7Fx7) by dan reyno (https://www.flickr.com/photos/145963965@N07/), on Flickr
Time for some plumbing
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4298/35903995822_f46c6d31f0_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WGHn5J)DSC_2544 (https://flic.kr/p/WGHn5J) by dan reyno (https://www.flickr.com/photos/145963965@N07/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4328/35264792393_ea9e742793_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/VJehaX)DSC_2545 (https://flic.kr/p/VJehaX) by dan reyno (https://www.flickr.com/photos/145963965@N07/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4321/35264793673_b76a72ee63_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/VJehy2)DSC_2549 (https://flic.kr/p/VJehy2) by dan reyno (https://www.flickr.com/photos/145963965@N07/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4293/36073668115_c2fba40b00_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WXGYK6)DSC_2551 (https://flic.kr/p/WXGYK6) by dan reyno (https://www.flickr.com/photos/145963965@N07/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4295/35232887284_3488daea8b_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/VFpKTS)DSC_2820 (https://flic.kr/p/VFpKTS) by dan reyno (https://www.flickr.com/photos/145963965@N07/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4325/35684000800_cbde4ac985_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WngQe7)DSC_2799 (https://flic.kr/p/WngQe7) by dan reyno (https://www.flickr.com/photos/145963965@N07/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4295/35232887284_3488daea8b_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/VFpKTS)DSC_2820 (https://flic.kr/p/VFpKTS) by dan reyno (https://www.flickr.com/photos/145963965@N07/), on Flickr
Throttle body cut to delete the traction control motor/ throttle blade
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4292/35232888014_0015740ea4_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/VFpL7s)DSC_2794 (https://flic.kr/p/VFpL7s) by dan reyno (https://www.flickr.com/photos/145963965@N07/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4313/35684001810_f72a532d4e_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WngQww)DSC_2824 (https://flic.kr/p/WngQww) by dan reyno (https://www.flickr.com/photos/145963965@N07/), on Flickr
Hood now closes without the throttle body on
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4309/35232885314_148e26ab7b_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/VFpKiU)DSC_2787 (https://flic.kr/p/VFpKiU) by dan reyno (https://www.flickr.com/photos/145963965@N07/), on Flickr
Dump tubes extended
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4327/35683997490_05bf317c2a_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WngPf3)DSC_2801 (https://flic.kr/p/WngPf3) by dan reyno (https://www.flickr.com/photos/145963965@N07/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4307/35232882654_51837bf385_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/VFpJw3)DSC_2814 (https://flic.kr/p/VFpJw3) by dan reyno (https://www.flickr.com/photos/145963965@N07/), on Flickr
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FPR and IAC plumbed in
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4294/35233044254_030493bfc7_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/VFqyyf)DSC_2655 (https://flic.kr/p/VFqyyf) by dan reyno (https://www.flickr.com/photos/145963965@N07/), on Flickr
Much better clearance on that feed line now
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4293/35684114440_5d95d67d7b_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Wnhq1q)DSC_2659 (https://flic.kr/p/Wnhq1q) by dan reyno (https://www.flickr.com/photos/145963965@N07/), on Flickr
044 mounted and set at the OEM depth
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4314/35684113340_1d506b6823_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WnhpFs)DSC_2741 (https://flic.kr/p/WnhpFs) by dan reyno (https://www.flickr.com/photos/145963965@N07/), on Flickr
-8 feed mounted, need more fittings to finish this up for good
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4300/36073514625_3c0f691d99_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WXGc7H)DSC_2745 (https://flic.kr/p/WXGc7H) by dan reyno (https://www.flickr.com/photos/145963965@N07/), on Flickr
I have a badass 3 gauge air vent pod coming and once that gets fitted i will paint all the trim
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4320/36073515805_c1aac53eec_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WXGct4)DSC_2505 (https://flic.kr/p/WXGct4) by dan reyno (https://www.flickr.com/photos/145963965@N07/), on Flickr
Excited to get started on wiring this thing up
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4291/35903709432_546f841d5d_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WGFTWY)DSC_2855 (https://flic.kr/p/WGFTWY) by dan reyno (https://www.flickr.com/photos/145963965@N07/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4301/36032709566_74a7b0b847_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WU64cd)DSC_2853 (https://flic.kr/p/WU64cd) by dan reyno (https://www.flickr.com/photos/145963965@N07/), on Flickr
Cut up that BN replica rear bumper after selling the skirts and front. Will figure out mounting and remake another set of skirts along with a lip of some type in the front
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4307/35232883744_80bed06db3_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/VFpJQQ)DSC_2766 (https://flic.kr/p/VFpJQQ) by dan reyno (https://www.flickr.com/photos/145963965@N07/), on Flickr
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Mmm, AEM Infinity.
I'm worried you won't be able to hear it running with such a subtle exhaust though.
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got some stuff done today even though it was hot as hell. 97* in the garage all day but it wasnt too bad.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4306/35926340822_d0edf42f5d_z.jpg)
Wiring mess in the bay currently
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4328/35256061324_db244dc4b8_z.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4293/35256059984_f7e4b164eb_z.jpg)
getting pretty good at pulling the hood off and putting it back on by myself lol. No turning back after this!
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4314/35926341812_1cec83d41b_z.jpg)
Cut up this piece of scrap carbon but will be remaking this.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4307/35926342772_2aefee742a_z.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4330/35926341312_1c0d287de3_z.jpg)
trimmed more of the skeleton and now it clears the throttle body and closes without hitting anything. very happy i dont need to add a vent.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4313/35256060644_5cb44328b4_z.jpg)
Got this badass 3d printed triple gauge pod from a guy off the RX7 FB group.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4328/35926344492_34aedaa2cf_z.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4300/35256061734_dc2fea7c38_z.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4314/35926341572_a137c0027d_z.jpg)
Ordered a 55 pin milspec connector lastnight and still need to order some other wiring stuff and sensors before i can get started on the harness. I think i will be wiring in a flex fuel sensor while im at it as well.
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nice work, I bought some cheap fans off craigslist for my garage and it makes a big difference. That or a portable AC system could help.
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Looking absolutely bonkers dude! I have so many question though haha.. just bought my cd009 and am foaming at the mouth to get started but the engine has to go int the shop first. I just don't have the proper tools to build the bottom end. Anyways, where are those getting you AN fittings!? Oh and also...wiring? You did it all yourself?
Keep up the amazing work...huge inspiration for me :D
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nice work, I bought some cheap fans off craigslist for my garage and it makes a big difference. That or a portable AC system could help.
I did get a box fan which does help. moving the front of the car into the open air made the biggest difference. After building this in a 30* garage in michigan and now a 100* garage in texas, id take the cold garage every day of the week.
Looking absolutely bonkers dude! I have so many question though haha.. just bought my cd009 and am foaming at the mouth to get started but the engine has to go int the shop first. I just don't have the proper tools to build the bottom end. Anyways, where are those getting you AN fittings!? Oh and also...wiring? You did it all yourself?
Keep up the amazing work...huge inspiration for me :D
Appreciate the kind words. I am using the JEGS signature series fittings for the entire car along with some vibrant/earls stuff for the specialty fittings (130*, conversions, etc). As far as wiring goes i am running a stripped down OEM engine harness with just the essentials and then wiring in a fuel pressure sensor, oil pressure sensor, flex fuel sensor, and IAT sensor. I also will likely be converting to direct fire coils as opposed to the aristo wasted spark system. On the chassis side of the firewall i will run the AEM flying lead harness and adding circuits for my additional sensors. I was planning to strip down the engine bay chassis harness, and I did mark everything that can go, but for now i will leave it and deal with the clutter until sometime after the car is running and shaken down.
While we are on the topic of wiring, i ordered a 55 pin milspec connector kit through racespec and asked them which crimp tool they recommended (great response/ customer service BTW). Their choice was the DMC AF8 with TH1A turret. This combo new on their site was 450ish and i ended up finding both the crimp tool and turret slightly used on ebay for 170. SO i jumped on that right away and it came in yesterday. This combo will crimp size 20, 16, and 12 contacts with a range from 26 gauge to 12 gauge wire.
Said crimp tool
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4302/35324670624_bf898cfc03_z.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4291/36163301995_c9102d7a9d_z.jpg)
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That DMC tool is awesome and a steal at 170. Looking foward to seeing your harness. Unlike most I enjoy wiring
Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
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Progress is looking great. TBH been creeping on this thread for the past six months looking for specific things to trouble shoot on my 1JZ build!
What made you go with the AEM Infinity? I went Haltech Elite 2000 myself
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That DMC tool is awesome and a steal at 170. Looking foward to seeing your harness. Unlike most I enjoy wiring
Yes me too, i did an internship at one of the top nascar team shops when i was in school and after proving myself i got put into the wiring lab where i was helping build mil spec harnesses mostly for pit carts and modular radiator fan assemblies. Seeing the stuff the lead guys were building and most of the concentric twist harnesses all over Instagram, i am very excited to build the chassis side and one day the engine side. Great read if you are interested- https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/wiring_ecu.html (https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/wiring_ecu.html)
Progress is looking great. TBH been creeping on this thread for the past six months looking for specific things to trouble shoot on my 1JZ build!
What made you go with the AEM Infinity? I went Haltech Elite 2000 myself
speaking with many supra and 2JZ guys at TX2k this year who run a 506 along with the person who will be remote tuning this car. I did have a hard time choosing between this and adaptronic but i wanted something with good support should i need help or trouble shooting assistance. what do you have going on with your 1JZ?
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I have that site bookmarked! Who did you work for? I used to live in Mooresville and worked for Robby Gordon right out of school. Learned alot on how to build things right there.
Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
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Wow.. Thanks for the info! Your FC is getting all the details 8)
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Good info
Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
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Not much going on, getting ready to order some sensors and other things for the harness. Did clean up the rest of the fleet though (https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4312/35423235693_5e2e23ca3f_z.jpg)
And my connector kit came in.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4300/36188083016_d9e90e3ac4_z.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4300/36188085046_c1c09a8fe6_z.jpg)
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Didn't do much this weekend as i was helping a buddy with his half mile car. Did get a chance to use his chop saw to cut my dump tubes/ exhaust. Now i need to trim the hood a bit more to clock the exhaust to the left and then remake a shroud! Chopped the intake also to run a 7 inch by 6 inch filter as this one seemed disproportionate. intake needs a -10 bung and the IAT sensor bung too.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4326/36275665735_0848d340d7_z.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4293/36109079492_3349362e6f_z.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4299/36275666695_8c0065b794_z.jpg)
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(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4312/36109078942_4c128d8cc5_z.jpg)
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Your level of detail is making my build look weak haha
Anways, I know you're running a CD009.. Do you have the driveshaft already? If so what length did you get for yours? Just want to get a rough number so I can compare..
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Your level of detail is making my build look weak haha
Anways, I know you're running a CD009.. Do you have the driveshaft already? If so what length did you get for yours? Just want to get a rough number so I can compare..
Do not have a driveshaft yet. I am talking to a local shop now who only does driveshafts so may have one in a few weeks.
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I was an aircraft electrician in the army and they had this style of connector on everything. I will one day build my own harness and have a quick disconnect harness for easy engine removal.
I actually still have the pin crimp tool in my garage... collecting dust...
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I like the AOS setup. What size AN lines are you using?
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That DMC tool is awesome and a steal at 170. Looking foward to seeing your harness. Unlike most I enjoy wiring
Yes me too, i did an internship at one of the top nascar team shops when i was in school and after proving myself i got put into the wiring lab where i was helping build mil spec harnesses mostly for pit carts and modular radiator fan assemblies. Seeing the stuff the lead guys were building and most of the concentric twist harnesses all over Instagram, i am very excited to build the chassis side and one day the engine side. Great read if you are interested- https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/wiring_ecu.html (https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/wiring_ecu.html)
Progress is looking great. TBH been creeping on this thread for the past six months looking for specific things to trouble shoot on my 1JZ build!
What made you go with the AEM Infinity? I went Haltech Elite 2000 myself
speaking with many supra and 2JZ guys at TX2k this year who run a 506 along with the person who will be remote tuning this car. I did have a hard time choosing between this and adaptronic but i wanted something with good support should i need help or trouble shooting assistance. what do you have going on with your 1JZ?
Thanks for this link. I'm going to check into their stuff for the Pro-Challenge car I'm refurbishing, as well as for when I redo the rest of the wiring on my FD.
I'm also sending a link to my work email, as there are several tools and products detailed there that would work great on some of our stuff.
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I like the AOS setup. What size AN lines are you using?
-10.
did some planning for the harness build. Whipped up an excel sheet with the connector face views and lists of all the pinouts. Need to start cross referencing my engine harness and ecu pinouts and group stuff together. Still need to get the ecu mounted but im tying to find some alumalite locally to mount the ecu and fuse box/relays. Also have to save up to order all my sensors which includes fuel pressure, oil pressure, oil temp, ethanol content, IAT, and a 5 bar MAP.
Cleared up the table to layout the harness
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4368/35584870183_6158bfaca7_z.jpg)
Current plan is to mount the ECU in the stock ecu location and run the harness behind the heater core box
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4367/36224983542_369c686c13_z.jpg)
I hope to be able to run it through the current hole shown below. I will likely use a 90* boot on the flange connector. Going to cut that lower HVAC case bracket and firewall stud next time i pull out the dash
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4375/35584877673_5fdbb027b2_z.jpg)
engine side,
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4402/35996260460_239d260334_z.jpg)
Before putting the dash back in i finished up the heater core lines
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4407/35996252910_061acf644a_z.jpg)
(have to cut that line flush)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4384/35996253530_2ed9bf74a3_z.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4416/36224988232_0fb96f7ef7_z.jpg)
and pulled the evap core then sealed up the box
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4408/35584868733_85b8254e47_z.jpg)
Dash back in to confirm harnes routing, then had to throw all my carbon bits on :bacon:
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4348/36224985892_e83c0710c9_z.jpg)
Really wish i didnt impulse cut the dash lastime it was all together as i was able to trim the lower red trim piece and it fit pretty good
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4353/35584874543_0bb0bbf0e6_z.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4385/35996258960_fdea78e739_z.jpg)
Its been too hot lately to clear coat everything but thats low priority
And one of the bay
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4339/35584880563_6bf020587d_z.jpg)
So been trying to get another fuel line/fitting order together to finish up my system. Does anyone know of any braided line that is submersible for my pump plumbing? Everything PTFE doesn't state its submersible and i done want something ghetto with rubber line and hose clamps. Toying with the idea of doing hardlines but then i would have to buy the 37* flare tool as well which gets pretty costly.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4314/35684113340_1d506b6823_z.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4300/36073514625_3c0f691d99_z.jpg)
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Does your pump have the standard 3/8" hose barb?
If so, I think this would work well.
https://smile.amazon.com/Fluorostore-F015072-Fractional-Tubing-Semi-Transparent/dp/B00KJDOIEM/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1501985561&sr=8-9&keywords=3%2F8+ptfe+tubing
PTFE is one of the most inert plastic materials you can get. It holds up to pressure and has a huge temperature range as well.
I can't imagine this stuff would ever deteriorate when submerged in gas or ethanol.
David
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Got a lot done today despite the heat. Pulled the engine to install a new rear main seal and then to reseal the pan as i did not replace the pickup o ring and it was worrying me. Next weekend it will go back in along with the clutch/flywheel and hopefully that will be the last time.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4435/36368630716_fbcd15cf86_z.jpg)
one expensive service cart !
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4364/36368630256_4c72cab751_z.jpg)
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(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4435/36368629506_cb90693ab5_z.jpg)
This is the O ring which seals the upper pan to the block for the pickup tube.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4418/36413676735_3b4a9c9c63_z.jpg)
and all back together
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4332/35578457874_82f94e69e8_z.jpg)
I need to plug a few coolant ports on the block and the second turbo oil feed before the engine can go back in. Also need to press the larger throwout bearing onto the sleeve and then slap the flywheel and clutch on. Once thats in, i need a driveshaft and clutch line/ master cylinder and drivetrain should be all squared away. going to mount the bulkhead connector sometime this week as well.
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Spent some time in the garage and got a good amount accomplished lastnight and today.
Trimmed down my exhaust studs and now just need new nuts without a flange on them to mount the manifold completely
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4356/36483758146_03a91c3010_z.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4348/36483759276_a681e5b7c3_z.jpg)
Clutch all ready to go in along with the accessories from the collins kit.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4372/36530113615_ac9ea7937f_z.jpg)
Heres the throwout bearing adapter with the ACT supplied bearing which was about 1/2" larger than the collins one.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4409/36483762936_fa90015a00_z.jpg)
I ordered the cast clutch fork and new clips from z1motorsports
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4391/35695190114_dd18c396c0_z.jpg)
Flywheel on and adapter plate torqued to spec
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4442/36530120025_084a2d66d1_z.jpg)
Clutch on and ready for the trans. i should have stopped here lastnight but kept going which led to alot of cursing and frustration
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4409/36530119305_abb3a16c74_z.jpg)
so this is where it went wrong. i could not get the trans to slide all the way onto the engine and was about 1/2" short. I struggled for about an hour then got it close enough to pull it on with the bolts. I then realized that there was no play in the clutch fork and it was sitting on the case yet i could engage it using a large prybar. I went to bed and realized later that night that the pivot ball is preventing the clutch from disengaging all the way.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4355/36530118145_d7401641dc_z.jpg)
Here is the longer pivot i got from collins with his instructions.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4381/36530114965_164df43449_z.jpg)
I ended up calling him today (saturday) to confirm that i should use the short one. After explaining my setup and telling him i had the long one installed, his response was simply "why". No complaints as this is the second time i have called him and he led me in the right direction (first one was about clutch master cylinder size which he recommended 5/8"), just was confused why the wrong one was supplied.
Anyways, after swapping the short one back in, the trans slid right on first try.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4398/36483760946_7e50f87872_z.jpg)
enlarged the hole in the firewall and then mocked up the connector. Might have to space the APP out a bit but it fits good.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4380/36530121305_6b340d6586_z.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4415/36483764226_e3397ca6ef_z.jpg)
Threw the engine back in and got everything torqued down to measure the drive shaft length
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4339/36483765376_0b2d855d54_z.jpg)
Called the driveshaftshop in NC and they told me to measure from output shaft to diff flange with the wheels on the ground and send them the measurements for a quote. I measured first with a measuring tape and got 32 3/8"- 32 1/2". Just to confirm i used this paper measuring tape and folded it on each side which yielded me 32 1/2" so thats what i will be giving them.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4375/36483764766_7c531ce130_z.jpg)
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Looking good! I just got my Collins CD to A340 plate.. the one where you cut the bellhousing lol
What radiator "kit" did you go with? For an FC or something else?
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Its an S13 mishimoto with their slim fan setup.
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Nice progress, Brett is a cool guy, glad you got the trans and engine mated, its looking good! Any issues with the bulkhead connector being at an angle as far as twisting to attach and unattach?
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Nice progress, Brett is a cool guy, glad you got the trans and engine mated, its looking good! Any issues with the bulkhead connector being at an angle as far as twisting to attach and unattach?
shouldn't be. that was a mock up, i need to flatten out that portion of the firewall so it sits straight.
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update time. Been trying to use up all this resin ive had for 4 years so started off with a sheet, 1 layer of woven fiberglass mat then a layer of carbon. didn't care too much about looks here just strength and function in this case.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4427/36742955481_81211e258a_z.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4440/36742961061_43c092679f_z.jpg)
Proceeded to turn it into this..
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4405/36742957631_e693c8db2d_z.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4398/36882765875_af6ea47dd5_z.jpg)
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(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4381/36752780480_8f5cc3717b_z.jpg)
Got my fuel pressure sensor, ethanol content sensor, and MAP sensor installed. Need one more 45* fitting to finish up my return line.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4404/36486325130_bc098d8820_z.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4401/36048561844_2769682b29_z.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4342/36882757955_c6334c9f33_z.jpg)
Got wastegate vacuum line routing all planned out.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4387/36882756435_2f9e489fae_z.jpg)
Then got started on wiring after figuring out my harness length. Ended up making this depinning tool for $2 as opposed to the $50+ dollar molex one.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4407/36716292640_8cb0b2c40e_z.jpg)
this allowed me to move some circuits around to add my inputs.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4364/36971323241_3a09e5043b_z.jpg)
Shortened the o2 sensor harness and ready for some heatshrink
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4427/36716294090_faf3888353_z.jpg)
then got to work indexing the engine side and figuring out some 5V and signal ground routing.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4436/37112753475_84e658c721_z.jpg)
using the wilbo666 wiring pinouts i was able to identify everything i will need.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4366/36716293550_a19ea19dbb_z.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4388/37112752035_a7d41392c6_z.jpg)
then rolled her out of the garage and washed all the junk off
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4331/36300170183_cd4ec41a9c_z.jpg)
Got the power/ground and relay control side of my harness separated from the engine control side and now waiting on some shielding splices so i can finish the ecu connector side up then start twisting and terminating the bulkhead connector.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4340/36981092592_6a80b901ab_z.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4419/36754840830_b92cdf3aa3_z.jpg)
Getting my fuse box started once they ship me the correct one. have all the wiring for that and ordered two more crimp tools for the metripack stuff. does anyone know what this harness is for? i had it separated with the HVAC stuff but dont remember where it came from.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4336/36752780100_3d065d7189_z.jpg)
Once i get the cabin side of the harness terminated i will start with adding the wiring for all my new sensors on the engine side. Still have to get the IAT bung welded in at the charge pipe, -10 AN bung for the breather system, and the second o2 sensor welded up. I also will be running an IGN1A ignition setup which i have to order up along with my driveshaft.
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Big wiring update! i have been planning everything out and making sure i have the majority of what i need before starting with this. First needed the shielded cable solder splices to properly ground my shielded cable. I am using the AEM supplied 4 core cables, two circuits for CKP and CMP each, then 2 more for both knock sensors. This leaves me with 2 extra circuits for use in the future. These splices are lined up with the shielded cable so it can be grounded properly.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4392/37267689075_6d1e5cb018_z.jpg)
With that being the last piece of the puzzle on the ECU side i zip tied that up.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4384/37267690225_9925f3b7a8_z.jpg)
Now i have the harness separated into a power/ground/ 12V switched loom, a wideband/ boost control solenoid loom, a CAN/ 2 step switch/ shield ground/tach loom, and an engine input/output loom. Twisted up the power/ground side which will run to my fuse box/battery
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4420/37076748756_45a529ee21_z.jpg)
Ready for heatshrink and a deutsch connector
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4424/37267690825_6820cb0e35_z.jpg)
Started the main engine harness with twisting the shielded cables which will be my core here
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4405/37267439725_bfcf36e94e_z.jpg)
Now typically you want to wrap layers of 6 at a time and because i have 26 total circuits after the shielded wires i wrapped 2 with the core.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4376/36452615753_081413f0fb_z.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4392/37267438335_cba69d3c49_z.jpg)
First layer of 6
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4402/36452616523_75f9a41a75_z.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4412/37124734411_9134c55880_z.jpg)
Second layer of 6
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4432/37124734921_7d158ba844_z.jpg)
Third layer of 2 filler wires (someone didnt plan correctly)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4385/36429518544_3bf45e6ddc_z.jpg)
Third layer of 6 going the other direction now
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4358/37267430135_36970374f5_z.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4409/37267425815_69b088fc9a_z.jpg)
Fourth layer of 6
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4358/36429524084_5c896f662f_z.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4331/37076740886_b409c2c3ec_z.jpg)
So the industry correct way to concentric twist a harness is to cut all your wire to length (+20%) and then start in the middle and work your way out. It should be done one layer clock wise, then one layer counter clock wise and repeat. Since i have my ECU side terminated already this method cannot be used so i had to do two layers clock wise then 2 counter, and so on. I also had an odd number of total circuits due to the core being large with 8 circuits total (from shielded cable). This left me with needing to use filler wires so after this last orange layer i needed to add an additional layer of 4 more circuits (yellow) to fully fill it out. I do not personally think this is a big deal as i now have 6 extra circuits that i can terminate on both ends without cutting open the harness for future expansion.
I did not take many pictures as it got very difficult to keep the end wound tight while taping and wrapping the last layer. I also cheaped out on spending $30 on a 1500 yard roll of lacing cord so i pulled threads out of the rolls of raw carbon fiber i have.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4384/36429517344_a21cd82553_z.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4441/36869251870_e352da0652_z.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4377/36869250760_f651b130c2_z.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4377/36869250760_f651b130c2_z.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4391/36869860480_7ffef604a9_z.jpg)
6 filler circuits pinned on the ECU side and wrapped in kapton tape
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4401/37124732721_e1052a04c4_z.jpg)
All done and perfect length now awaiting heatshrink. This is a 40 circuit total with two 4 conductor shielded wire bundles core measuring .55" in total diameter. I am pretty happy with how this came out for it being my first time. I will be running the modified OEM harness on the engine side but now want to badly build a harness from scratch with new toyota connectors over the winter. This should only cost me a few hundred dollars since i am now tooled to do this.
I was also itching to use my DMC crimper so i terminated this 6 pin DTM which will be used for my CAN, shielding ground, tach output, 2 step switch, and 12V switched power for the AEM UEGO.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4435/36869262330_c5b7ab31e4_z.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4343/36869259760_cec7664a29_z.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4382/37267427835_0c8c5d1dc9_z.jpg)
going to order my heatshrink and boot before terminating the bulk head. I am also ordering my ING1A ignition system before starting on the engine side. Still need to route and terminate new wires for my EOT, IAT, EOP, FRP, ECS, and MAP sensors. Also ran into an issue with the swirl pot setup the shop made me. There is just not enough room to plug the ECT connector in so after talking to the shop they want to pot the ECT sensor which i thought was a great idea. Basically they will remove the pins from the connector, plug them in on the sensor, then fill the sensor socket with epoxy. A DTM connector will then be added a few inches further down the circuit. Something i can do but will let them handle it since its kinda their fault. They need to weld on an IAT bung, -10 bung, and second UEGO bung anyways for me. Waiting on the correct fuse box to arrive then i can start terminating that as well!
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Harness looks fantastic!
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sweet harness work, I have never personally done the concentric twist, thanks for the insight and pictures.
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That is extremely time-consuming, but it does look and function very well.
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Back at it! Finished up the harness and got some other things checked off the never ending list. We will start off with a big order from prowire with everything else i need to wrap up the chassis harness.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4481/36526618474_dff6d2c68e_z.jpg)
Most importantly this back shell, the heat shrink, and heat shrink boot.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4450/36526618024_5ce5975c3e_z.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4370/36981542730_a511d69947_z.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4450/37207240362_2fb12ecb4c_z.jpg)
Started off sliding on the heatshrink and shrinking 90%.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4458/36981544310_ba5de7d42f_z.jpg)
Then brought my vice inside and got ready to party
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4338/36526606684_a65b7acae4_z.jpg)
So right as i am getting ready to crimp the first pin i realize that the pins for the milspec connector will not slide into my crimp tool however the pins from the Deutsch connectors slide in with some resistance. Now this is what i get for buying tools this critical used, however i ponied up, found a drill bit barely larger, coated it in grease and drilled (more like honed) the bore on the crimp tool. after this all the pins slid in like butter and i got back to work.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4478/37236572971_e6c06e42f4_z.jpg)
Was really in the zone so forgot to take pictures but started with this. I am using 3mm knitting needles which i got at Michaels for the service loops.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4480/36981534930_983d095e19_z.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4351/36981534380_fbcf7149e0_z.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4353/36526611564_818662f011_z.jpg)
And ended up here. I will say that this is an area i wish looked better but it functions so thats all that matters. Staggering the service loops to look pretty was very hard mainly due to me not leaving enough wire free length. Biggest take away for me here is to leave much more wire length next time.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4350/36981542450_c3c834512f_z.jpg)
wrapped in kapton tape ready to be booted
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4422/37207236242_ce2d330761_z.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4499/36981541740_20824603b2_z.jpg)
This was face paced, throw a bead of epoxy on the backshell, heat boot evenly,wipe excess, then throw a bead on the harness side, then heat evenly until we got this
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4346/37236575021_dd6acf23cb_z.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4387/37236573961_182fc4d905_z.jpg)
Finished product. At some point i slid on the raychem for my power loom then added a 12 point Deutsch which will be mated to my fuse box.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4331/36526617184_45e4ccfa07_z.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4474/37207238702_bca74b9074_z.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4414/37246974461_5de125422d_z.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4333/36991520680_a6ab024845_z.jpg)
This was a 55 pin and i only used 38 total pins with 2 shielded circuits dead ended at the connector. I chose to pin it like this due to the injector circuits being too short for other locations. Lesson definitely learned.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4341/37246965331_a5d2ef1281_z.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4496/37246970561_8bf51f8f9b_z.jpg)
Also swung by my fab shop earlier in the week and got the IAT, breather bung, and second O2 bung welded on while i waited.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4334/37254060741_54caf54353_z.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4405/37254059551_19f85c6275_z.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4457/36544396864_2aa6b44fae_z.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4351/37254058531_f576a518c2_z.jpg)
ordered my IGN1A kit from induction performance. Very pleased with this kit as it included everything down to connectors and pins.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4464/37254061471_57881a2961_z.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4409/36544397174_c3f86de81a_z.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4442/36544395664_a8502727a9_z.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4514/36544396304_ff10056390_z.jpg)
Now i was pretty happy with being able to run the stock hood to fit the engine since it was apparently unheard of, but after much consideration i decided to go with this kit so that i will never have to upgrade again. The other option was OEM USDM coils but the used price of those was about the same as this proven kit. I saw the majority of crazy supras at TX2K running this same setup. I will be running a URAS style vent to clear the front two coils which should help with underhood temps drastically.
Next up is installing the engine side harness to verify wire lengths for my additional circuits/sensors and then splice in my 5V and 12V along with pinning out the connector. I will also run an ignition sub harness with new tefzel wiring, raychem, etc. My current plan is to get the car running on the stripped and modified OEM harness (verified through load testing to be functional) and then build a mil spec style harness in the near future using new OEM connectors and tefzel wiring. This will be easy due to the detailed documentation i have been making along the way. I need to order a driveshaft, power steering lines/ reservoir, and plug a few coolant ports before we can add fluids, load a base tune, and fire her up!!!!!!
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Looking pretty fantastic! Thanks for sharing the updates, I need to practice concentric harnesses...
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Pulled the dash this morning and installed the harness. Very happy with how it fits. The extra bundled wire is for the boost control solenoid, and ignition switch 12V. I will go through the oem ECU harness sitting on the bottom and steal some switched 12V for use in this case.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4446/37273018011_038a532433_z.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4349/37273015351_94baf2962b_z.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4512/37226202396_10d2154ea4_z.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4333/37226201196_d054bf630a_z.jpg)
With that done i terminated my fuse box and verified the wire lengths. I have terminated this with 4 total relays (2 extra) and wired the fuses on the outside so i can add additional circuits for whatever. This is being used for the ECU power circuits, cooling fan relay, and fuel pump relay which are both controlled by the infinity. Extra wire on top is for the cooling fan and fuel pump output. The extra 18 gauge circuits are the ECU grounds which will be ran to a bus bar then battery ground.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4358/37273011321_0788dd9447_z.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4477/37226204316_74f9985e6e_z.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4494/37273013871_d709d25cea_z.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4472/37273013211_68ebf0b25f_z.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4492/37273020941_4f46c88c52_z.jpg)
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Been working on the engine side harness and waiting on some splices, 16ga wiring, and heatshrink to come in before i terminate the bulkhead connector but that should be done this week. I am looking for some detailed wiring information regarding the stock relays/ power distribution in the driver side engine bay harness. Does anyone have any links or information i can use specifically for switched 12V and the starter solenoid relay wiring? i would like to use this for 12V supply to injectors, coils, and a few other 12V sensor/ components. I have looked through the electronics section here and done some google searching but cannot find exactly what i am looking for.
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Due to supplies on hand and waiting on a few OEM toyota connectors i started on the ignition harness. These coilpacks are 5 wire, one 12V HV power, one HV 12V ground which i used 16ga for, then one signal ground (22ga), a cylinder head ground (18ga), and finally the trigger (22ga).
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4505/37367639412_bf46d3a5da_z.jpg)
Twisted the high voltage circuits to reduce EMI
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4374/37367643272_6d9186f332_z.jpg)
6- 16ga pair circuit core
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4359/36689535274_91912ffd1e_z.jpg)
one layer of 18ga
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4367/36728359953_e323380485_z.jpg)
final layer of signal ground and trigger circuits. Splices will be done at the connector end
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4434/36689534504_b010532f44_z.jpg)
then worked on breakouts and individual branches
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4340/36728359113_691f8677a8_z.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4416/37398698301_8f026d5b3f_z.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4368/37398700561_fee8967011_z.jpg)
and DR25 treatment with raychem SCL (adhesive lines) used for the transitions and break outs.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4447/36728324913_76aace5557_z.jpg)
these utilize pull to seat connectors/pins= pain in the ass
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4340/37398695321_8e5818d2dc_z.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4440/37398693311_e272a20615_z.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4437/36728358563_bcf7e921bf_z.jpg)
waiting on some more heatshrink and a boot for the main break out but it will be routed behind the FPR and finished off with an 8 pin DTM for the signal ground/ triggers and then a 4 pin DTP for the 12V and ground circuits.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4446/37410866876_8b209cf965_z.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4476/37410868286_ca36968e53_z.jpg)
Engine side harness is mainly completed but i totally fucked up the length and decided to repin the entire connector. If you remember the chassis side i ran some circuits too short and this ended up being a pain in the ass causing me to skip positions in the connector. This time i left too much slack and didnt like how the harness was routed afterwords. Already pulled the pins out of the bulkhead and chopped it too the right length. Should have that repinned and booted by this weekend and can start on running battery cable.
Anways, before we got to the bulkhead i cleaned up all the remaining circuits/ connectors not being used and ran new circuits for my added sensors.
Before-
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4372/37367641192_2ed6cdb6f7_z.jpg)
After-
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4437/36728326403_5e39c0e7c4_z.jpg)
I was investigating the OEM splices when i found they were filled with some sort of dielectric grease
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4506/37398690991_f8bb9bc7c6_z.jpg)
Ended up redoing all the splices except for the injector one as i am waiting on a larger size crimp splice. These are the parallel splices crimped with the indent crimp on my metri pack crimp tool.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4412/37398689921_86506d99ba_z.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4400/23546108848_8f8c9a6689_z.jpg)
I did do a few tests of various wire size and arrangement prior to starting. These are finished off with raychem SCL which is adhesive lined.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4507/37398696511_5b4b2b32a4_z.jpg)
And some shots of additional connectors i added. I did reuse some of the OEM wiring here after testing it out via a load test. The copper was also a bright color on everything i reused. Did find some greenish strands in some cases which i threw out.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4451/37141119080_13bef87ff6_z.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4366/23546109938_d7ebeb7c0f_z.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4433/23546109518_4b75220642_z.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4485/23546113508_2b7fffd8da_z.jpg)
This picture shows off the size of the tefzel (milspec) wiring nicely. The purple circuit (tefzel) is 20 gauge and the black/ yellow-green circuits are 22 gauge. The tefzel wiring is much smaller in total diameter due to the thinner outer insulation. This insulation is also much more difficult to strip and overall much tougher.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4358/37398708201_03cdb26fab_z.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4464/23546112708_511f6f1c6b_z.jpg)
Also potted the coolant temp sensor and wrapped it up with a DTM. It now clears the swirl pot.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4503/37200937870_bf3767fa27_z.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4456/37410865686_ff5aebb54d_z.jpg)
BCS got the same treatment
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4421/37398694341_e200b448b1_z.jpg)
IAT, fuel rail pressure, TPS, and VVTI breakout.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4494/37427316332_f710f8f88e_z.jpg)
Before cutting off the OEM connectors i numbered all the circuits which made pinning the bulkhead a breeze.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4367/37351275566_a4b0a9fe70_z.jpg)
spreadsheet i made using pinouts
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4408/36728327013_1ce24d2039_z.jpg)
Since i was now pinning this side of the connector in a specific way to obviously match the chassis side i needed to plan out my layers here so everything goes smoothly. Now i know that spending extra time and $ to concentric twist the harness with used wire is not the most logical move but i used it as practice so i dont really care and it will still offer its benefits of flexibility along with compact packaging.
4 shielded circuit core, then inputs, then coils, then injectors
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4507/37424455762_4e869630b2_z.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4497/37458194361_8f63ac056d_z.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4438/37197842780_9a48c98cbd_z.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4505/37408000626_ea39374e14_z.jpg)
With having such a large core there was just no way i could fill out an additional layer with the number of wires i was dealing with. So i left it at this and heatshrunk it. Also ran 2 additional circuits for possible input/ output expansion in the future.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4442/37197844180_5895bda238_z.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4437/37455435151_b72c3f3940_z.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4481/37407998886_fa25034d96_z.jpg)
And this is 99% wired up with everything tucked nicely. I have 4 circuits branching to the OEM fuse box which i need to find a home for to supply 12V to the injectors, coils, IAC, VVTI, and ethanol sensor.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4476/37410868286_ca36968e53_z.jpg)
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I really doubt you'll get useful readings from those O2 sensors that close to the pipe exit.
Reversion and turbulence in the flow, particularly when moving down the road, will introduce outside air to the sensors, causing them to read extremely lean.
You generally want those several feet from the open pipe outlet, however, putting them pre-turbo would probably sufficiently isolate them from outside air.
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I really doubt you'll get useful readings from those O2 sensors that close to the pipe exit.
Reversion and turbulence in the flow, particularly when moving down the road, will introduce outside air to the sensors, causing them to read extremely lean.
You generally want those several feet from the open pipe outlet, however, putting them pre-turbo would probably sufficiently isolate them from outside air.
Yes i agree, this is definitely a concern. They were mounted in the middle to keep a happy medium between skewing the readings with clean air and burning up sensors from being too close to the turbine. This hood exit setup is not something that will be permanent in texas as they are more strict than michigan is which is where the car was when i first built it this way. I will eventually have a full exhaust that exits after the rear diff with the dump tubes still out the hood, so we will see what happens. Should also be relatively easy to spot this in the logs showing VE and injector duty cycle. Thank you for the valuable input though!
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Your wiring is simply AWESOME! I just started getting into building harnesses and this thread helped big time! As for your down / Up pipe I would modify it like stated above. On the dyno, if the O2 doesn't have about a foot long pipe after the O2 then I tend to see a false lean condition. I usually remedy this by sticking my own small O2 pipe down the throat to tune or add a section of pipe after the O2 if the customer is willing to pay.
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Your wiring is simply AWESOME! I just started getting into building harnesses and this thread helped big time! As for your down / Up pipe I would modify it like stated above. On the dyno, if the O2 doesn't have about a foot long pipe after the O2 then I tend to see a false lean condition. I usually remedy this by sticking my own small O2 pipe down the throat to tune or add a section of pipe after the O2 if the customer is willing to pay.
Thanks, i appreciate that! let me know if i can help. As far as this exhaust predicament goes, i think i will leave it like this until i get it up and running then add a full exhaust as i dont care about a hood exit enough to drill holes in my manifold. Thinking about it more, it will be critical to have accurate lambda readings when tuning E85 so this will be a priority for this winter.
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Add a giant 3 foot stack for tuning :D
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Very impressed on the wiring harnesses. What coil packs did you go with? Any reason why you didn't do LQ9 coil packs?
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Add a giant 3 foot stack for tuning :D
HAHA, many years ago i saw a crazy dyno video in japan and they had the exhaust come out the hood, run over the windshield and over the roof.... now it all makes sense
Very impressed on the wiring harnesses. What coil packs did you go with? Any reason why you didn't do LQ9 coil packs?
Thank you!! these are the mercury marine ign-1a coils which are becoming very popular right now. AEM, Motec-(racegrade), and a few others use these in their IGN1A kits with their stickers slapped on them. As far as the LQ9 coils go, i felt those kits were cheap/ pieced together and cost too much for something i would end up changing in the future anyway (to this setup lol). I also have heard many stories of them causing tons of EMI and even being able to trigger on their own from EMI. The price of piecing together OEM supra coils with the ignitor was about the same as these and they dont perform anywhere near as good. This ignition kit is ran on all the big boy 2000HP supras. Here are the coil specs copy/pasted;
COIL SPECIFICATIONS:
Output Voltage: up to 81kV +/- 10%
Output Energy: up to 250mJ +/- 7% (8mS dwell @ 14 volts)
Peak Secondary Current: 100mA +/- 7%
Arc Duration: 3.2mS +/- 10% @ 3.0mS dwell target
Max Continuous Dwell: 9mS not to exceed 40% duty cycle
Max Intermittent Dwell: 88% duty cycle for 9 sec max
The IGN1A coils deliver a powerful, long duration spark and are ideal for use in high-boost or high-compression engines.
This coil is a specially designed inductive style, high energy coil IGBT (Insulated Gate Bipolar Transistor) referred to as a smart coil, as it is designed with the igniter on the coil. (TTL Transistor to Transistor Logic computer systems)
This coil has the potential of a Massive Spark Energy, (<250mJ, 8mS dwell @ 14 bolt) equal to and typical of the Capacitive Discharge Ignition (CDI) ignition systems, and delivers a very long spark duration that can only be achieved by using inductive coils.
This Massive Spark Energy <250mJ, and very high voltage, >81kV with incredibly long spark duration of <3.2mS is CRITICAL to maximizing power in high boost or high compression engines.
These coils are flawlessly being used on 3,000 hp nitrous engines without CDI. This is World Class performance!
The heavy duty construction is suited to operate in harsh environments and will handle substantial shock, vibration, and is weatherproof. This coil can be mounted virtually anywhere.
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little update, been finishing up with wiring and had the harness complete but did not like how close the shrink boot was to the intake manifold so i cut it apart and have a 90* boot on the way. Also have some more raychem as i depinned the injector connectors to add heatshrink to those circuits. Other than that i need to connect to some switched 12V and finish up battery cable routing.
After finishing up wrapping the engine side harness i decided it was too long for my liking after it was fully terminated so i depinned the entire connector and snipped it. second run came out much better minus the interference with the shrink boot. Already have it set at 90* and clearance/ harness slack is perfect.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4457/36871990653_efeacf3594_z.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4473/36871995463_3bab410e58_z.jpg)
picture dump of some heatshrink added to various legs of the oem harness and new circuits
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4477/23689203398_4188c72f7a_z.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4459/36871994973_890f525be2_z.jpg)
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final resistance check to verify all pins are correct. this was from ecu connector to each component connector.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4455/36871862063_20d1d4e0fe_z.jpg)
got the ignition harness completed as well. Splice work here
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4478/36871988193_8feeb78f87_z.jpg)
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(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4444/36871921983_5041855bde_z.jpg)
and finished up with a DTP. not the cleanest work but functional and room for expansion/ modification in the future.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4485/36871870903_42d3e9d198_z.jpg)
And size difference between a size 12 contact and size 20.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4478/23689095678_ed90ec6c74_z.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4451/36871866713_c4924fa268_z.jpg)
Need to terminate the other side and run to switched 12V, and ground.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4495/36871864233_285a06ed55_z.jpg)
Finished harness which needs the 90* boot before its all done
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4481/36831605864_8cc0ea2a5b_z.jpg)
I read a good article on ECU grounding which led to me adding a busbar for the ECU grounds which i will ground to the engine block as opposed to battery negative.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4504/36871988933_76be47d4c3_z.jpg)
Also ordered up battery cable lugs, 2ga cable, and a battery lug crimp tool. My current plan is to run a 2ga from B+ to a firewall bulkhead and then in the engine bay branch a 2ga from the firewall to the starter, and then a separate 2ga from the firewall to the alternator. I will then run a 4ga from the alternator to the OEM fuse box. What is everyones thoughts on this? My other thought was to run a 2ga from the bulkhead to the alternator, then a 2ga from the alternator to starter with the 4ga coming off the alternator to the fuse box. Always thought it was best to run dedicated cable to starter but this would save alot of cable length. Would like to hear what you guys think on those configurations. I will run a 180 or 200A fuse near the battery for this 2GA cable as well.
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I have run a 2 gauge to the starter and looped the alternator off of that with a 4 gauge on a bunch of cars, never had any issues with that layout.
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I have a 2 gauge wire for my starter and a 2 gauge wire for my alternator from a bulkhead on the firewall. I also ran the power to my fusebox from this bulkhead as well, and then have a single 2 gauge wire back to B+. This has worked fine for me and it looked pretty clean since everything goes to that one bulkhead.
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I have a 2 gauge wire for my starter and a 2 gauge wire for my alternator from a bulkhead on the firewall. I also ran the power to my fusebox from this bulkhead as well, and then have a single 2 gauge wire back to B+. This has worked fine for me and it looked pretty clean since everything goes to that one bulkhead.
This is basically exactly how i ran mine. thanks!
I have an update coming but stumbled upon this deal on ebay for 2 brand new 265/40/18 NT01's and ordered them. I was worried that it was incorrect and only 1 tire would show up but it ended up being right and was 2 new tires. If anyone is looking for these sizes here is the link!!!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-New-265-40ZR18-Nitto-NT01-XL-BW-2654018-265-40-18-Tire-Tires/122551703420?epid=654669633&hash=item1c88a6977c:g:qTEAAOSwaSZZ7vxZ&vxp=mtr (https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-New-265-40ZR18-Nitto-NT01-XL-BW-2654018-265-40-18-Tire-Tires/122551703420?epid=654669633&hash=item1c88a6977c:g:qTEAAOSwaSZZ7vxZ&vxp=mtr)
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Thats a pretty insane price for that size tire. Have you gotten them mounted up yet?
Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
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Thats a pretty insane price for that size tire. Have you gotten them mounted up yet?
Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
I have not, just arrived on friday. I will mount them up sometime next week and see how they fit
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Lets get all caught up! The engine harness is complete after making some last minute changes due to fitment with the intake manifold. Cut off the straight boot and reorientated the harness for a 90* boot which worked out perfect. Also depinned all the injector connectors and added raychem to those circuits.
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With this mainly completed, it was time to run battery cable so i could find my switched 12V sources to fully finish up this harness and all wiring. I am using prowire usa motorsports battery cable which is very flexible and a better suited option than welding cable. 2ga used here. As i mentioned before, i am running a 2ga from the battery + to this firewall bulkhead.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4482/37955697241_eec8a5fa71_z.jpg)
From there, i ran a 2ga to the alternator and then another 2ga to the starter. There is then a 6ga running from the alternator post to the OEM underhood fusebox
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4462/37995100882_ecfa88e854_z.jpg)
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I purchased this 10 ton hydraulic crimper (betool brand) for 40 bucks of amazon (best reviews in comparison of the others) and am very happy with it.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4462/26180110239_29e7468895_z.jpg)
And finished product-
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4464/37955691501_204ba67fd6_z.jpg)
i have been finishing these off with DR25 when using a rubber boot or with SCL adhesive lined when running without the boot.
Due to packaging i ended up remaking the upper power distribution panel. The 200A breaker is set between the battery + and the 2ga cable to the firewall. The interrupt switch is set between the battery + and the bussman fuse box which powers the fuel pump and ECU. I chose this method so i can hit the interrupt switch and it will power down the ECU and kill fuel. Tripping the 200A breaker only risks a voltage spike from the alternator and also the possibility of the alternator powering the fuse box without the battery.
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Backside- 6ga power cable from the interrupt switch and between the bussman posts.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4561/38363478942_f01005d4e4_z.jpg)
Picked up a D35 yellow top and finished up with power/ ground cables. I chose to use the rear seat seatbelt threaded hole for my ground and of course cleaned all grounds to bare metal. From the engine block to battery negative im at .04 ohms.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4516/38339384086_6bebab411a_z.jpg)
Wish i didnt have to cross the cables like this but the posts were practically touching the cross bar when oriented the other way.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4540/38339380526_d83e7a0835_z.jpg)
Also got all my engine grounds made. I went with a 2ga running from the starter body/transmission bellhousing to frame rail and a 6ga from the block to frame rail on the starter side of the engine. On the other side, i ran a 6ga from the block to firewall and will be adding a 2ga from the alternator housing to the frame rail. I will also add another 6ga from the cylinder head to firewall.
With that all handled i ran some temporary splices for the wideband gauge and flipped the switch
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4546/38339387326_b1a398ae98_z.jpg)
This was a milestone for this build as i am getting so damn close to firing it up. I am placing an order this week for some more splices and ring terminals so i can finish up the ECU ground and wire my switched 12V inputs inside the cab. I will also be probing around the engine side connectors to find switched 12V for the coils, injectors, IAC/VVTI, and then wire up the fans.
Non wiring related, i finished plumbing my heater lines
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4561/37680394014_dc42f46d19_z.jpg)
Not sure if i added this but installed my sandwhich plate for oil pressure/temp
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4509/26180106159_8afded8a25_z.jpg)
ordered this rivnut tool (marson RN1) and mounted my FRP higher so i could finish my return line plumbing
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And then got my fuel line mounting/ routing finished up. I had to revise this since the fab shop welded the crossmember brackets. Much happier with this option as its isolated from the chassis. BTW found these decent billet separators on ebay. 8 pcs for $26 as opposed to $12 a piece on jegs. Drilled them out for larger hardware and used nylon bushings
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Still need to order 3 more feet of -6 and fittings for the pump hanger return line.
Went with some PTFE -8 for the pump hanger. Hopefully i dont run into any issues using this method but after the fact i found some submersible PTFE line on radium engineerings website.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4531/37680390974_6a6f43f0d4_z.jpg)
Picked up some -10 separators as well for catchcan and oil cooler lines.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4579/38363483792_edf60cb3e5_z.jpg)
At some point i lowered her back down a little in attempt to build motivation (it worked)
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And then spent an hour cleaning metal shavings from my intercooler pipes and coolant pipes. Not too happy about that but this is what happens when you dont do things yourself. This is how i got all the piping back and there is some sitting in my intercooler which i will have to flush. I used cut up microfiber towels and pushed them through the piping with extensions and then using water from the hose
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4540/38339382476_5bdfa6b685_z.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4515/38339378686_4850be4565_z.jpg)
Scooped up some 265/40/18 NT01's as wel. Might mount these after the texas "winter" since they apparently dont like temps below freezing.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4522/38339385916_51307064fb_z.jpg)
After i get my switched 12V wired up and everything back together i will order my basetune and get some new sparkplugs. Then i can pick up fluids and order a driveshaft before i can drive her!!!!!!
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Everything is looking great! What bulkhead terminal did you use for the battery wire? Did you end up putting boots on the coilpack plugs? I also hate pull to seat connectors, about the dumbest idea when push to seat works just as well
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Everything is looking great! What bulkhead terminal did you use for the battery wire? Did you end up putting boots on the coilpack plugs? I also hate pull to seat connectors, about the dumbest idea when push to seat works just as well
I did not use boots on the coilpack connectors, just sealed the heatshrink with SCL. The connectors are weatherpack so it should be fine. I used a fastronix brand bulkhead for the firewall. I like their products as i am also using their battery terminals.
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Progress looks really nice as usual. I really dig your attention to detail on all of it.
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I did not use boots on the coilpack connectors, just sealed the heatshrink with SCL. The connectors are weatherpack so it should be fine. I used a fastronix brand bulkhead for the firewall. I like their products as i am also using their battery terminals.
Thanks for the info their stuff looks really nice, I want to add a remote jumper point and will probably use their stuff
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Update time! Got in hopefully what is my last order from racespec. More splices, ring terminals, and a DTP 4 pin connector. Here is the completed engine harness which includes plug and play jumper harnesses for the mazda connector for switched 12V and the starter solenoid.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4534/38634653692_8596fcec07_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21S1GwQ)DSC_4550 (https://flic.kr/p/21S1GwQ) by dan reyno (https://www.flickr.com/photos/145963965@N07/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4560/38634650552_e3fe21e541_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/21S1FAG)DSC_4547 (https://flic.kr/p/21S1FAG) by dan reyno (https://www.flickr.com/photos/145963965@N07/), on Flickr
this is the coil pack sub harness which includes cylinder head ground, 12V ground (grounded at block), and 12V+. I wired in a new relay using the open ABS bus bar in the OEM fuse box and triggered by a mazda keyed 12V source. Small harness is the switched 12V jumper for injectors, VVTI, IAC, and alternator
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4560/38634649762_5f9739833c_z.jpg)
and installed
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4536/38634641902_d1af52f46d_z.jpg)
The other thing i was waiting on was ring terminals for the fuel pump and other assorted things. Fuel pump is now all complete and wired up. This is raychem RW-200 which is fuel cell spec heatshrink.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4530/38666646201_e14da3bb65_z.jpg)
Trimmed up the cubby and got the battery tie down heatshrinked since it was pretty close to my terminals.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4516/38634661062_10786bbccc_z.jpg)
I powered everything up again and confirmed that i have 12V where i need it and that the starter solenoid got power (bypassed the security module).
Used some spare hardline for a cleaner coolant line running to the swirl pot. This is the second highest point in the head other than the rear heater core outlet.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4574/37779167515_0e3b83648f_z.jpg)
Ordered some titanium exhuast studs from fuse fab (same guy who built my manifold) and then spent 3 hours getting this silly manifold on. basically, due to them being 12PT 13MM nuts, it was near impossible to tighten the rear bottom 2 nuts as they were making contact with the runner. I ended up using 2 nuts and the Ti washers so i could just use an open end to tighten them. Also attempted to make a tool but it didnt work out.
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(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4546/38666635381_21e88dab98_z.jpg)
Comparison of my cut studs, the OEM, and the Ti
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4542/38666637071_d61951250e_z.jpg)
And finally all mounted and torqued
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(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4559/38666626761_1293aae496_z.jpg)
Hotside all torqued to spec for hopefully the last time.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4567/38634639392_185a84d6a2_z.jpg)
5 months later.. finally got around to clear coating my carbon bits since it was so nice out
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How she sits now. ordered plugs and a serp belt then have to pressure test the cooling system, flush the fuel lines, fill her up with fluids, then prime the turbo. I also powered up my AEM infinity to load the latest firmware. I have a base tune being worked on by Vlad and have spoken to a local driveshaft shop about building me a steel shaft (to hold me over until i go 8.8 kit). We are getting pretty close to hearing this thing for the first time!! Once it is running without any bugs i will buy a master cylinder and clutch line so i can drive her around before registering it in TX.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4570/38666634121_f5b506ff77_z.jpg)
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looking good as always
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Quick update of disappointment! For sake of time and money i ordered this PS delete kit from driftmotion and got that installed.
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Ordered heat range 7 plugs and gapped them accordingly. installed plug wires and finalized ignition system install.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4640/25033598378_860b382d36_z.jpg)
Finally fully plumbed, wired, and awaiting fluids.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4731/25033600008_a4727dceb8_z.jpg)
Also ended up switching last minute to AEMs new E85 320lph pump due to struggling to fit the 044 and the looped line into the tank. I ended up not being able to fit the 044 inside the sump chamber at the bottom of the tank, and during that ended up kinking the PTFE line. Ordered up this AEM and rewired the pump and got everything installed. This AEM actually flows more than an 044 and is also more consistent throughout higher fuel pressures per Dsports fuel pump shootout.
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After installing the pump i primed my fuel system to flush the lines and found a large fuel leak at the number 1 injector. Havent torn it down yet but it appeared to be coming from the O ring which seals the top of the injector to the adapter which then inserts into the rail. Figures out of all the fuel fittings i have assembled the only thing that leaks is what i did not check. I actually never bothered to check those O rings or even remove the adapters. So time to confirm they are 11mm injector tops then order and replace every injectors o rings. Kinda disappointed as i planned to start it up tomorrow but now will have to wait until after the holidays. O well, maybe i can have it driveable for the first start and get some videos for you guys
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I was going to wait until this thing was running before posting again but i will dump some pictures now while i have time. Have not worked on the car much in January as i was going riding a bunch since it was nice here on the weekends. Well last weekend i smoked a cylinder on the quad so i got back onto the car and it is ready to be fired. I was able to prime the engine last night and crank it over for the first time. Have to wait for my tuner as he wants to be on webchat to watch the datalogger during the first start.
Fuel leak was caused by drift motion using copper crush washers on ORB fittings. I had them really things tight but they still leaked and i also didnt like how the plug on the rail protruded 60% into the bore of the rail. Radium rail installed and this thing is badass and such a high quality piece. injectors got all new O rings as well.
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Ran the pump for 15 seconds and there was no leaks and the system held about 35PSI overnight and has slowly bled down since.
Last plumbing work was for the wastegates. I wanted to keep it tidy and got the job done using 3 tee fittings. May rework it to shorten lines a little more if possible. this is set up per AEM recommendation for max boost/ response and to run spring pressure when EBCS is off.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4649/28250328849_137cbb8f90_k.jpg)
Realized how expensive t bolts/ constant tension stuff was but read through a bunch of reviews and found a great deal on these t bolts on amazon.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4627/28250328469_0f86d33594_k.jpg)
Grabbed my FTPs when i was home for the holidays as well and threw them back on. I like this look again
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4716/25158443807_b3fdbf7221_k.jpg)
And for anyone who cares, i tore down the banshees engine and found out my root cause. This thing actually still ran decent but was pinging on the cylinder with the broken piston skirt and was down on power. All remaining pieces of the piston went through the pipe as it was clean in the crankcase with just some small grit. Going to build it bigger/ better now.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4614/25158442007_21171241f8_z.jpg)
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Damn.
Years ago I had a piston skirt break like that on a Suzuki 200AE V6 outboard on a Seebold tunnel boat.
It actually happened just cruising along. I only noticed it when I slowed down to idle and heard a chuffing sound.
I shut it down and pulled the cowling, which had fuel and oil vapor sprayed all over the interior.
I thought what the hell, and turned the fuel pump back on to locate the leak.
Seeing nothing, I fired it up again and ran my hand around each side feeling for leaks.
When I felt air puffing out, I found 2 cracks with a section of engine case pushed out.
I ran it easy back to the marina a few miles away, and tore it down when I got home.
The stock piston had failed, and the chunk got caught between the rod and case, cracking the case.
Fortunately it didn't hurt the cylinders, crank or rods. I found a used set of cases, rebuilt it with Wiseco pistons, and ran it for many years afterward.
By the way, I still have an '84 RZ-350, the bike that provided the engine for the Banshee.
It's a really fun bike, but I haven't ridden it for years. I'd like to restore it someday, maybe when I retire and have the time.
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Damn.
Years ago I had a piston skirt break like that on a Suzuki 200AE V6 outboard on a Seebold tunnel boat.
It actually happened just cruising along. I only noticed it when I slowed down to idle and heard a chuffing sound.
I shut it down and pulled the cowling, which had fuel and oil vapor sprayed all over the interior.
I thought what the hell, and turned the fuel pump back on to locate the leak.
Seeing nothing, I fired it up again and ran my hand around each side feeling for leaks.
When I felt air puffing out, I found 2 cracks with a section of engine case pushed out.
I ran it easy back to the marina a few miles away, and tore it down when I got home.
The stock piston had failed, and the chunk got caught between the rod and case, cracking the case.
Fortunately it didn't hurt the cylinders, crank or rods. I found a used set of cases, rebuilt it with Wiseco pistons, and ran it for many years afterward.
By the way, I still have an '84 RZ-350, the bike that provided the engine for the Banshee.
It's a really fun bike, but I haven't ridden it for years. I'd like to restore it someday, maybe when I retire and have the time.
Wow thats crazy. Mine was slightly low on power and it was pinging when i was idling it so i limped it back and checking compression it was 20PSI down (130) and the plug was hit by debris which closed the gap all the way. Going to build it to a 421. And that RZ350 is worth a pretty penny now, definitely hold onto that!
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Carnage! Good thing 2 strokes are relatively simple to rebuild. 421 should be a nice increase haha. FC is looking good too
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I bought the RZ350 from a friend back in the late 80's, for $750. :D
I replaced the clutch, put on a set of chambers and opened up the airbox, and eventually re-ringed it and polished the ports.
I probably have a little over $1,500 in it now. It's still in solid condition, but would need some work to get it running again after sitting for so long.
Here's a few pics I took a couple years ago. Note the tag expiration, it's been a while. LOL
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David that thing is immaculate, its worth some serious money now
Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
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AWESOME. looks to be in great condition, love the color scheme as well!
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she is up and running. Had a fun hour of diagnosing a crank no start which ended up being some voltage drop to the injectors, they were not firing on 8V LOL- go figure. got a few things to iron out and then going to order my driveshaft and plumb the clutch before going for a drive!!
https://youtu.be/CmKCvUvkMnw (https://youtu.be/CmKCvUvkMnw)
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Sounds good!
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Update. added 2 relays for all my switched 12V stuff and was able to add 2 more fuses to the underhood mazda fuse box to power everything so it is still clean. The Fab shop nicked my radiator when drilling holes for the rivnuts and it took them 2 weeks to weld up the radiator. Currently have a driveshaft installed, clutch master plumbed and bled, and cooling system back together with no leaks. Had her running last night for a little but it idles at 2K currently due to the previous voltage drop issues (8V) to the IAC/ VVTI ( we added duty cycle to IAC to meet idle target ). We are going to spend some time this week on a webchat and clean up the idle and make some other adjustments before we start road tuning the car. Once it stops raining in dallas i will probably drive it around my sub division. Also need to mount tires and get it registered. Fingers crossed i dont run into anything major during initial road testing.
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Congrats!!! This is such a well done swap. Very impressive work.
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Congrats!!! This is such a well done swap. Very impressive work.
Thank you sir, means a lot coming from you. now finish up that mustang.
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Currently have the car running smoothly and ready to drive. We did some adjustments to the tune earlier today and noticed that my TPS was reading backwards. After verifying the wiring was correct a few times, i ran the part number on the sensor and found out it is a 2JZ GE sensor and that they actually rotate the opposite way (mounted on the opposite side of intake). Currently hunting for a GTE TPS locally so i can hit the road this weekend!!!!
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I wanted to update this with some info on the last pieces for anyone referencing this thread. As stated earlier, after smoothing out some cold starts and idle tables on the tune, we noticed that my throttle % would read negative when snapping the throttle. Turns out the used manifold i bought to delete the aristo DBW throttle had a 2JZ GE TPS sensor installed which rotates backwards. I have a new sensor on order but it wont be here until next week.
For a throttle cable, i bought a $22 FD RX7 cable from summit and cut the throttle end off and then cut the cable to length. After i did this, i crimped the threaded housing end back onto the cable and then used a set crew type cable end lug. This worked well as the firewall clip and throttle pedal clip were all the same as the OEM cable.
For a driveshaft, i had a custom one made by a local shop - fort worth gear and axle. total distance between output shaft and pinion flange was 34-7/16". Most driveline shops order slip yokes/ flanges from powertrain industries and for a CD009 you will need a 3503-323 slip yoke and the turbo II pinion flange 2602-41. For reference, i am using a TII housing with a Kaaz 1.5way LSD. An 8.8 kit with gearing to match the CD009 is on the list. I already have a complete 8.8 LSD waiting for me to pick up.
Clutch setup is an ACT sprung 6 puck 350Z clutch on the collins kit with flywheel. I used the 350Z slave cylinder with the 350Z OEM sized master cylinder from Wilwood in 5/8. Stu kelley firewall adapter and trimmed Mazda clutch pushrod. I had a custom clutch line made by chasebays @ 33" length.
I did have some issues with voltage drop from the Mazda chassis wiring i tapped into in the engine bay. I ended up adding 2 additional fuses to the mazda underhood fuse box using terminals i harvested from other connectors. I then ran 2 relays underhood to supply power to the VVTI, IAC, and injectors. The other relay feeds the cooling fans to reduce any voltage drop from the relaybox mounted in my passenger cubby.
I will be mounting tires soon and will be running Falken Azenis RT615K+ in 225/40/18 in the front and Nitto NT01s in the rear @ 265/40/18. Before the car is truly roadworthy i need to do front control arm bushings, order the Hinson sway bar spacers, and replace the front wheel bearings using the mazdatrix stuff.
I also cleaned up the lines for my breather setup and routed some things differently.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4606/40577161181_b8aeb0bac2_k.jpg)
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/799/39476022830_9f0bfe0169_k.jpg)
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I have a chasebays coolant overflow on order so ignore the line running over the rad support. I will likely mount the overflow under the air filter.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/791/41242498732_7dbfcecba7_z.jpg)
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/892/41285735411_3c9185e4fd_k.jpg)
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Looks good!
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I just updated the beginning of this thread to dump tons of pics that were lost through photobucket for anyone reading through.
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Ordered my TPS from drift motion like 11 days ago and it finally showed up on Monday. I installed it today, adjusted it and then went for a 25 minute drive throughout my subdivision. Initial thoughts are- definitely need to get power steering ASAP, 1.5way locked diff from KAAZ is noisy!!. Other than that, i am going to play around with clutch adjustment and rebleed it again using Blakes method. The car drove smooth and revved up clean. Monitoring my datalogs, i never surpassed 183* coolant temp or dropped below 43PSI of fuel pressure. I will be trying to get the car registered tomorrow and mount tires before road tuning the car further. Took some shitty videos on my phone which i posted to youtube and linked below.
PS- Does anyone have any input on fuel tank venting when doing a swap? i removed all my vent lines to the engine but left everything else. I suspected that it might not be venting and opened the cap after driving today and it released or pulled in a lot of air once i cracked the cap. Does anyone run a vented cap, and if so have a part #?? appreciate any feedback.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/898/40525929495_df9217b317_c.jpg)
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/807/40525927925_dc9db66680_c.jpg)
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https://youtu.be/hrcVSHQBnqk (https://youtu.be/hrcVSHQBnqk)
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Got my tires mounted today and the ride height set. Was able to put about 45 miles on the car since i got plates this week as well. So far so good. Biggest issue i am having is an oil drip from the oil cooler thermostat bolt but have an order from mazdatrix coming tomorrow which includes new front wheel bearings and a new crush washer for the oil cooler. Also have some KAAZ LSD fluid that should be here tomorrow to hopefully help quiet down my diff. I am suspecting the kid who owned it before didnt use KAAZ fluid in it which causes clunking on slow turns. Heres some pics from a photoshoot i took while on a beer run :cheers:
Tires are 225/40/R18 and 265/40/R18
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/922/26724654717_37ff13fee7_c.jpg)
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/806/26724656227_8606ea57a8_c.jpg)
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Also got my hood vent in. Not very happy with the quality on this, going to need some work before its acceptable. I will be trimming the rear a lot and probably mounting it lower than it is currently.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/870/39784555450_249c4d1bd5_c.jpg)
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Looks good, would love to see it lower but I know its a street car
Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
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Looks good, would love to see it lower but I know its a street car
Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
Thank you. I wanted to try out a meaty setup for a bit and the offset on these rears makes it hard to run these lower without more negative camber. I did the stance thing tucking 18s for a while so its nice to change it up lol.
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Very impressive build. The wiring is fantastic.
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Very impressive build. The wiring is fantastic.
Thanks man!
Still have an oil drip coming from the thermostat bolt on the FC oil cooler after putting a new Mazda crush washer on there. I am suspecting that the cooler may be cracked but i have not pulled it off to inspect. Anyone have a clean one laying around? Or any suggestions on an upgrade core size/ location? i am going to pull it off this time and add some RTV to the threads and look for cracks. Thermostat is removed and port inside blocked with a bolt/washer/nut.
Other than that, got a revision on the tune from the datalogs i pulled last weekend. Also cleaned up the cold start and hot idle more and its sounding smooth. Going to change the diff fluid with the KAAZ fluid and put some more miles on it. Still need to change the front wheel bearings and get an alignment. I also spoke with Chase bays and i am going to get them some measurements for power steering lines and the fitting sizes for the rack so that they can get an FC 2JZ kit together. Can anyone confirm that the fitting sizes below are correct, like as in they personally used these fittings on their car without issue? i pulled this from an older thread that freeskier shared.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fra-491963-bl/overview/ (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fra-491963-bl/overview/)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/vpe-16616/overview/ (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/vpe-16616/overview/)
Any help is appreciated!!
Full interior cleaned up and reinstalled. On the hunt for an OEM maroon drivers floor mat if anyone has one.
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Here is the shifter location with the trim on. I REALLY REALLY regret cutting the dash like i did, and totally did it out of impulse during test fitting the shifter assembly. If i could do it again i would cut the rear open. Anyway, driver side fits nice but passenger side needs some trimming due to the opened up shifter hole.
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And cut up this unused seatbelt mount cover to mount my old ipod. Cable will be tucked behind the dash and this also hides the A/C controls that i will not be using. Probably overlay this in carbon sometime soon.
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That is a shockingly nice maroon interior. Wow.
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That is a shockingly nice maroon interior. Wow.
Thank you, ended up ditching the little ipod mount because it felt out of place.
Have about 200 miles on the car and wanted to share some initial impressions. Definitely will be doing a full exhaust, this setup was temporary but i feel like the car will be much more enjoyable with an exhaust dumping out the back. Heat management will also be a priority as it gets hot in the car (like 105* in 80* ambient) when measuring at the driver footwell carpet after a long highway cruise. I will probably do some lizard skin or something, have not researched any options yet but open to recommendations. I have not tested the car after adding the hood vent but i hope that will help allow the heat to escape and drop cabin temps. As i knew, explorer 8.8 setup will be a top priority. The current 4.11 gearing with the CD009 ratios puts me at 3000RPM when doing about 65. Will be much nicer to cruise at 1500-2K RPM. Have not calculated which gear ratio i will go with but i will try to keep the final drive close to a supra ratio. I knew most of these areas would need attention but i wanted to get the car running and any bugs worked out before focusing on creature comforts.
Regarding the actual car, i did resolve the oil cooler leak after a third attempt at sealing it and coated the threads with RTV and it is leak free. When the car is hot, i have a small drip from the turbo return fitting on the turbo and have a -10 fitting on order to resolve that (current 2 piece fitting is a flange and then an NPT to AN port that threads into the flange). Recently i started running into a fuel pressure issue only when the car has been driven for about 30 minutes/ hot and the fuel level was below 1/2 tank. If i crank up the FPR it will come up to 43PSI again but will then start to drop down to the low 30S after driving for some time. I suspect this is either from the hot return fuel entering the tank right near the pump inlet, the depth that the pump is currently set at being too high, or from a voltage drop between the AEM pumps 14GA wiring and the splice into the OEM 18GA wiring inside the tank. I verified that i am getting 13.5V at the connector ontop of the pump hanger, but did not open the tank yet nor have i thrown an amp clamp on it. Instead of fucking around with the modified stock hanger i ordered a built2apex dual pump hanger and 2 walbro E85 450 pumps. Also got a radium fuel filter setup and their fuel pulse dampener. Hoping that this will suffice for my current goals to max out the ID1000s on E85 in the future. Still have to do front wheel bearings and get the car aligned but so far so good. I was able to get one solid 3rd gear pull at 75% throttle to 5500PRM and it pulled pretty hard on the rough tune currently flashed. After that pull i did a few tiny 50% throttle pulls while taking this iphone video https://youtu.be/_XAWOe1rMIc (https://youtu.be/_XAWOe1rMIc)
Started getting some nice colors on the manifold
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/909/40156664750_2c71663c5a_c.jpg)
hood cut for the vent
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Mounted in final position using rivnuts
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Vent openings trimmed roughly and rear cut straight
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/826/40156662160_ae7bde8da7_c.jpg)
Templates cut for a better fit. Will be grafting fiberglass pieces in then final prep/ sanding on whole vent before paint.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/832/41963559791_631a4e2baa_c.jpg)
Chase bays coolant overflow installed
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Need to get started on some carbon ducting for the radiator next. Also working with chase bays on a FC-2JZ power steering kit and having some trouble finding the correct fittings so still researching that and exploring options.
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Ducting should make a big difference for engine temps. I know mine did.
I'm trying to remember, do you have any heat shield in the bay/tunnel in those areas? That should help even more than Lizard Skin. That said, either Lizard Skin or a good quality butyl rubber + closed cell foam (I like Raamat and Ensolite) should help a lot. Doing heat shield + butyl + closed cell foam should help a whole lot.
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will a full exhuast fit pretty easily with the turbo mounting set up? I like the look of the hood vent
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Ducting should make a big difference for engine temps. I know mine did.
I'm trying to remember, do you have any heat shield in the bay/tunnel in those areas? That should help even more than Lizard Skin. That said, either Lizard Skin or a good quality butyl rubber + closed cell foam (I like Raamat and Ensolite) should help a lot. Doing heat shield + butyl + closed cell foam should help a whole lot.
No heat shields in the tunnel and nothing in the bay either other than some random gold foil tape in places near the engine. Appreciate the input though, i will look into my options at some point.
will a full exhuast fit pretty easily with the turbo mounting set up? I like the look of the hood vent
Yes it should with the wastegates orientated differently, There is a lot of room on that side of the tunnel in both the opening, and under the car. Also can snake it above my trans mount which will be perfect for ground clearance
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So still waiting on the built2apex double pump hanger. Placed the order on 5/1/18 and was promised 2-3 weeks before shipping. 60 days later and i have been promised 4 separate times that "it is shipping out this week" so who knows when it will actually get here. I have driven the car to a few car meets and cruising it when its not too hot out but other than that i have not done much to it and i am waiting to do all the fuel system upgrades since it is actually a turn key car at the moment. Once this fuel pressure issue is resolved we can continue tuning it and start turning up the boost.
I had some 3 year old epoxy to use up, so i made up a quick 2ply sheet to duct the radiator in. This did help with coolant temps and they drop fast once the fan kicks on now. The radiator fans will also hold a piece of paper to the intercooler when running.
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I have been trying to avoid sanding fiberglass in 100* weather but finally got around to patching in the missing panels on the vent. Need to reinforce the backside with fiberglass and then do final sanding and prep before painting it.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/832/41963559791_631a4e2baa_c.jpg)
Camera is acting up, sorry for the dark pictures.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1804/43095947521_435e0dd3cf_c.jpg)
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My 2 piece turbo drain flange kept leaking so i swapped that out with a billet boostlab 1 piece.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/968/27368751147_aaafebf5fd_c.jpg)
here is round 2 of fuel upgrades. Radium fuel pulse damper and 10micron filter. I have a feeling my cheap brass element Earls filter is related to my fuel pressure issues.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/907/41517836564_041994af4a_c.jpg)
once the pump hanger gets here, i will be running twin walbro ethanol 450s
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/980/42192846512_03d34aa746_c.jpg)
Finally getting my powersteering setup wrapped up then going to get an actual alignment. I am running a chase bays reservoir, excessive manufacturing high pressure line, and will be putting together the low pressure and feed lines. ** does anyone have the o ring size for the high pressure banjo fitting on the rack? i have lost 1**
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The FC is looking wonderful man! Glad to see you installed a rad shroud, a must have no doubt.
Hopefully the 10 micron filter solves your FPR issue on hot start.
It is kinda funny but the less desirable interior colors of the 90's are actaully becoming popular. I have a blue dash in my 91 integra ind it is in very good shape like your maroon interior, anyway I got complimented on how clean and "cool" it was from a younger gear head.....never would have expected that in a million years hahahaha.
Your interior rocks man!
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very nice build sir and bad ass harness, thank you for taking the time to post pics of the harness build
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The FC is looking wonderful man! Glad to see you installed a rad shroud, a must have no doubt.
Hopefully the 10 micron filter solves your FPR issue on hot start.
It is kinda funny but the less desirable interior colors of the 90's are actaully becoming popular. I have a blue dash in my 91 integra ind it is in very good shape like your maroon interior, anyway I got complimented on how clean and "cool" it was from a younger gear head.....never would have expected that in a million years hahahaha.
Your interior rocks man!
Thanks a lot, i love my maroon interior just because everyone usually hates it. Regarding the fuel pressure issue, i have a hunch that its related to the pump height in the tank ( i set it about 1/4" off the floor of the tank), the return line being too close to the pump inlet and pulling aerated fuel, or the cheap Earls brass element filter i run post pump is causing a restriction. I have adjusted the FPR a few times back to 43.5 and it drops down to 35PSI shortly after and gets even worse when hot.
Anytime i give it moderate throttle you can watch it start to fall out even worse. At first i figured i would open the tank up again 1 time and upgrade to the billet 2 pump hanger and new fuel filter all at once to be done with it. This was also when i believed that i would have the pump hanger in 3 weeks as opposed to 90 days due to this ponzi scheme built2apex seems to be running. Still waiting on the hanger LOL. I still rather get this resolved the right way before continuing with tuning to avoid doing it twice.
very nice build sir and bad ass harness, thank you for taking the time to post pics of the harness build
Thank you! i am itching to build another harness, i really enjoyed that process surprisingly.
In other news, been collecting parts on the banshee build for anyone that cares. went with a 421 serval cylinder (lower port timings compared to a drag racing port) which should offer a a broad powerband for trails and duning. These setups usually run about 83-85WHP. Hopefully i get my crankshaft this week so i can assemble this weekend and measure the squish band clearances/final checks before installing back into the bike.
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Well that Banshee sounds like an excellent and very entertaining way to splatter oneself, LOL.
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love the rear diffuser. You make it yourself?
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Well that Banshee sounds like an excellent and very entertaining way to splatter oneself, LOL.
Should be a good time, excited to get back to riding.
love the rear diffuser. You make it yourself?
Yessir, i made it many years ago using 1/4" ABS sheeting and 2 hole L brackets from lowes. I want to do an update using carbon sheet and carbon L brackets at some point
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Still waiting on my pump hanger to ship but in the mean time i have been working on the hood vent, just installed my fuel pressure damper and a thermalnator intake gasket (phenolic gasket), and redid my ignition ground harness to get rid of a splice i used to extend the relay. I am mocking up the new fuel filter and decided to pull the old one out and see if it was restricted. Here is what i found, not sure if this would be the sole root cause of my fuel pressure issues but i feel that it contributed. Also this being post pump, i would assume the same grit and junk would be on the pump sock so we shall see. Thinking back, my fuel pressure was solid for maybe 50-100 miles then this started occurring.
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That's some form fitting hood customization. And a NASTY fuel filter, at least that garbage isn't in the injectors.
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what fuel pump hanger did you buy? I have been looking at an aftermarket hanger to hang my dual 450's in my FC project.
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what fuel pump hanger did you buy? I have been looking at an aftermarket hanger to hang my dual 450's in my FC project.
built 2 apex. It finally shipped this morning!!! I believe due to the backlog they have experienced, and due to SEMA projects they will not be shipping out any new orders until after October. Visit their website and contact Nader with questions.
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Nice, That is the one I have been looking at. Interested to see what it looks like setup in your car.
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pump hanger has landed but i am missing a spacer that mounts the pumps parallel to eachother. made a jegs order with everything i need for this and the power steering setup so hopefully next weekend i can get this thing back together. I have mounted the new Radium fuel filter above the rear diff and it appears that my current fuel lines will work.
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Pulled the intake off to install this fuel pulse damper and also found/fixed an oil leak from the CMP sensor. Intake gasket was questionable so i installed a sikky thermalnator phenolic intake gasket which claims to reduce IATs by 25-35*.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1816/42270996270_3624017baf_c.jpg)
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1815/42270994370_0f83391074_c.jpg)
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And that's some sexy billet right there. :D
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That looks awesome. What are you going to do for a fuel vent? That is a nice hanger.
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That looks awesome. What are you going to do for a fuel vent? That is a nice hanger.
I am plugging the vent port on the tophat and running the stock vent. I talked to Nader at built 2 apex and he said most plug it so he will be deleting it when he updates the design. I found some nice AN fuel cell vents but they were all very expensive.
So i feel like such a fool, i finished plumbing up my fuel filter and decided to just pull the pump out to see if there is anything obvious and look what i find... this would explain a lot about how this all began and i am really surprised that this thing still built 40+ PSI of fuel pressure under light load. i think the only thing saving it at all was the stiffness and length of the fuel line prevented it from completely popping off. that silver fitting was a spare that came with my FPR and i almost bought another one because there was no barb on it but figured it would work.. O well, at least my fuel system will be bullet proof and be able to support E85 no problem now.
Do you see it??
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1892/30234067668_c9f2cfd7a2_c.jpg)
how about now?
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Fuel filter mounted and lines hooked up. This is a tight fit but it clears the tie rods under full compression.
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(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1873/44102108001_909fbf473c_c.jpg)
And started plumbing up the power steering system, just need to pick up an AN adapter for the pump suction line and a new O ring for the HP banjo line. Looking for one if anyone has any laying around!!
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(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1870/42292801710_d079af8d55_c.jpg)
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Got some stuff figured out to get this fuel system finished up and wired up the topside. I wanted to run a hardline return which required a bulkier fitting combo. This required some bending on the top tab to offset the resistor box, and then some bending on the float and ground rod to bring them back perpendicular with the tank floor.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1846/44095113682_cfe0491cd8_c.jpg)
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1816/29205603677_7aaa51f377_c.jpg)
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1816/44095117282_4585194b85_c.jpg)
Power/ground pump harness which includes a circuit for the cooling fan output. this is all 12GA tefzel
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1845/44095118232_da59a04347_c.jpg)
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1815/30276204988_caa48412b4_c.jpg)
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(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1839/29205605297_5532e20b0d_c.jpg)
I wanted to be able to remove the whole pump harness yet and run it through the original grommet so i wired up the tank level sender on a separate harness also running through the grommet with a 2 pin Deutsch connector.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1878/30276203038_84e511fe48_c.jpg)
Topside is all wired and ready to go, just waiting on the spacer to mount the pumps. I ran into an issue with the feed line having a tight bend when hooked up so i ordered a female to male 45* and 90* fitting to come off the tophat. I will try to run the 45* to increase flow a little, but we will see what fits better. This was easier than dropping the diff and running a new line (my lines run above the diff and through the OEM bracket). this pic shows the angle of the feed compared to the straight -8 fitting.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1815/30276204988_caa48412b4_c.jpg)
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FWIW, the make 'full flow' 90* fittings that minimize how abrupt the transition is, assuming one would fit anyway. I used those for the oil lines on my Mustang.
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FWIW, the make 'full flow' 90* fittings that minimize how abrupt the transition is, assuming one would fit anyway. I used those for the oil lines on my Mustang.
the fittings I ordered were the Jegs radius flow so it shouldn't be that bad either way.
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Quick update on this thing, i have driven it after replacing the pump and my low fuel pressure issues are resolved of course. However, i am having issues with my aeromotive FPR (which has been having issues from the start) and will be replacing it for a fuellab unit. First issue is with the dual pumps running at idle and off boost, there is too much flow for the aeromotive to handle and it will not go below 50PSI. I know the return port on these is very small and this is an older model, but the regulator also does not pull 1:1 boost reference, nor does it hold pressure once the key is off. I have been reading a lot of horror stories with these units and their quality so i will just replace it and stage my pumps to keep fuel temps down. Other than that, i did beat on it for a bit one day and it is getting pretty quick. I will upload some pulls to youtube later.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1851/43740675244_e532d9fcae_c.jpg)
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1851/42649520450_4e6d474951_c.jpg)
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(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1904/43022959730_e815b6c692_c.jpg)
Need to wrap up power steering, get an alignment, and replace this FPR then start enjoying the car more in the cooler weather coming to TX!
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Hopefully that solves the FPR issue. I've been running Magnafuel units for a while now and have had good luck, even with stupidly overkill pump setups. I'd think Fuelab would be similar.
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Those aeromotive units are fine for NA setups but like you said cannot handle dual pumps well
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Hopefully that solves the FPR issue. I've been running Magnafuel units for a while now and have had good luck, even with stupidly overkill pump setups. I'd think Fuelab would be similar.
That is what i am hoping. I know a few guys from induction performance recommend the fuellab units on their mild ~1000WHP 2JZ setups.
Those aeromotive units are fine for NA setups but like you said cannot handle dual pumps well
I have found a lot online about the seats not being cut evenly and that is why they dont seal or hold pressure key off. Mine has a vacuum leak somewhere too and does not increase at 1:1 PSI. I am tempted to try their new GenII setup or the X1 but the quality on this one is so shitty i dont want to risk it.
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Crazy they have such QC issues, I would run the Fuel Lab one I may actually pick one up when I do nitrous on my car
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Have not updated this in some time. So i custom ordered a fuellab FPR with the large seat and out of the box my fuel pressure was 35 PSI with both pumps running. Much better compared to the aeromotive which could not drop below 50PSI with the screw turned all the way out. I also pulled the aeromotive apart and the seat looked to be updated from the pictures i found and it was cut correctly however still did not increase FP 1:1 with boost. Fuel pressure is now rock steady and barely fluctuates 1PSI throughout the powerband and raises 1:1 also. Very happy with the fuel lab setup coupled with the radium pulse damper.
With that solved i was able to do some WOT pulls but found i was hitting 19PSI running 15PSI wastegate springs (boost controller not on yet). Swapped down to some 10PSI springs and now im at 13.5PSI which is right at the 14PSI target for my current tune revision. Datalogs sent away and waiting on another revision now. Also got power steering hooked up finally and the car is much more enjoyable to drive. This setup is the stock VVTI PS pump with the solenoid disconnected, excessive manufacturing HP line, -6 conversion fitting and -6 return line, and -10 suction line using a chase bays baffled reservoir. The steering feels good and is not too light at speed yet manageable during low speed turning. From what i remember it is slightly less assist than the OEM steering setup.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4898/31082307977_f5bf239b58_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4910/45971523612_eef8542760_c.jpg)
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I am going to see if i can get an alignment before winter hits here, does anyone have any advice on toe settings for a mild street driven setup? i am pretty much stuck with the rear camber settings but need to set toe in the rear. I will read through the alignment thread also. Thanks!
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Looking good! Does your chase bays power steering reservoir leak too?
I would think 0 toe or maybe a 1/16 in would work in the rear. I am actually designing and building some adjustable toe links for the FC
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Looking good! Does your chase bays power steering reservoir leak too?
I would think 0 toe or maybe a 1/16 in would work in the rear. I am actually designing and building some adjustable toe links for the FC
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No this one doesn't leak lol. its actually cool to see the return fluid movement when looking into it with the engine running. They claim the baffle design drops the pressure from 120PSI to less than 12PSI in 2 inches. You can see it flowing slowly from the top of the little baffle tank inside.
And i have the full PBM catalog in the rear so should be good to go. This car has never had an alignment but the front toe is def way out currently.
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Looking good! Does your chase bays power steering reservoir leak too?
I would think 0 toe or maybe a 1/16 in would work in the rear. I am actually designing and building some adjustable toe links for the FC
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No this one doesn't leak lol. its actually cool to see the return fluid movement when looking into it with the engine running. They claim the baffle design drops the pressure from 120PSI to less than 12PSI in 2 inches. You can see it flowing slowly from the top of the little baffle tank inside.
And i have the full PBM catalog in the rear so should be good to go. This car has never had an alignment but the front toe is def way out currently.
I must be overfilling mine...and the PBM stuff is nice shoukd be no problem dialing in toe
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Looking good! Does your chase bays power steering reservoir leak too?
I would think 0 toe or maybe a 1/16 in would work in the rear. I am actually designing and building some adjustable toe links for the FC
Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
No this one doesn't leak lol. its actually cool to see the return fluid movement when looking into it with the engine running. They claim the baffle design drops the pressure from 120PSI to less than 12PSI in 2 inches. You can see it flowing slowly from the top of the little baffle tank inside.
And i have the full PBM catalog in the rear so should be good to go. This car has never had an alignment but the front toe is def way out currently.
I must be overfilling mine...and the PBM stuff is nice shoukd be no problem dialing in toe
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I thought you were making a joke since my chase bays coolant tank leaked. Per their website, the fill point is halfway full when cold.
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Got an alignment done. We only adjusted toe and man what a difference it made. My front had like 2* toe in on the right side. Currently at -5* camber and 1/16” toe in on the front and -2* camber/ 0 toe rear. Car is 10x more smooth and much more enjoyable to drive at speed without the wheel being twitchy and jerking through bumps.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181202/613d68a04c886ca6311f5d7c1f3a271d.jpg)
The dallas cars & coffee was having their last event at the current venue so i drove the car the 60 mile round trip. Great turnout at the show and saw some big money hyper cars. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181202/36d44c3e97618b95c894139aecd314d4.jpg)
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How's it drive now that it's mostly sorted out? I'd think you'd hold your own against some of those cars better than they'd expect. :D
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Your car is super clean and super unique but man those exotics are ridiculous. They just drown out most cars not retailing 100k+.
Really love that pic of the car in the shop getting aligned. The lighting brings out the gloss in body and wheels. Super fresh. :afro:
-groovin
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How's it drive now that it's mostly sorted out? I'd think you'd hold your own against some of those cars better than they'd expect. :D
Its getting pretty quick. I really have not surpassed 5500RPM but the few times i hit 19PSI it did it by 3700RPM and pulled damn hard. I just got a revision today and can now rev out to 7K so im excited to experience that. I will take some gopro videos and post them up. I enjoyed cruising it to the C&C event and it was pretty tame on the highway despite the hood dumps and short gearing with the CD009 and 4.11s. Cruising at 70 i think i was doing 3600RPM.
Your car is super clean and super unique but man those exotics are ridiculous. They just drown out most cars not retailing 100k+.
Really love that pic of the car in the shop getting aligned. The lighting brings out the gloss in body and wheels. Super fresh. :afro:
-groovin
Thanks man, i appreciate it. It was crazy to see the attention the hyper cars got, there must have been over 1000 cars, many super cars-lambos, mclarens, ferarris, LFA, Porsches, but there were always hundreds crowded around the pagani and bugattis. People werent even enjoying them or truly looking at them, just fighting to get pictures and videos of them lol. Wish i had some time to sit and stare at the all carbon Huayra to appreciate the details.
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Sick car as always, great to see you enjoying it. My power steering reservoir also had loose fittings when I first got it. So that comment was kinda in jest. I am overfilling it though and will definitely be adjusting my fill
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Sick car as always, great to see you enjoying it. My power steering reservoir also had loose fittings when I first got it. So that comment was kinda in jest. I am overfilling it though and will definitely be adjusting my fill
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Thanks! my first coolant tank from them dripped constantly through a leak within the tube inside the tank. they shipped me a new one next day and sent me a return label. No complaints with either of their tanks, they look great. I was trying to work with them to get a 2JZ FC power steering kit but didnt hear anything else after i sent fitting sizes. I do know they are currently working on FC RX7 parts along with FD specific stuff.
Took a bunch of gopro videos yesterday during my datalog pulls and for some reason it didnt record any sound. Got a new revision earlier today and will try to get some useable footage next time i go out. Currently at 17PSI and it pulls hard lol. Car is making 17PSI at 3650RPM and holds it to 7K. I think this revision will have some better spool and adjustments to the boost controller so we will see.
Has anyone wired up a GM continental flex fuel sensor? I was under the impression that my tuner hadn't enabled it yet but he says it is enabled. It has always read no data so today i verified power (12V not 5V), continuity from the ECU to the input circuit at the sensor, and continuity between the sensor ground and ECU connector. I have been reading up and am finding conflicting information that it is supposed to be grounded to battery -/chassis ground and not to signal ground. I have it grounded to signal ground. If i do have it grounded correctly then i guess i will have to try another sensor.
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Nevermind about the ethanol content sensor. I guess mine is wired correctly because i was actually looking at the wrong PID. Current tank is reading 10-11% ethanol. E85 tuning will commence once it starts to warm up again. Drove it again today and logged another WOT pull. Power delivery is smooth and its fast enough where its getting really hard to find spots to do a 4th gear pull from 2 to 7K. I will share some footage later this week.
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I wanted to pull my catch can out and see if its doing anything or not. Pulled the intake off and it was visibly clean but i got a small amount of oily residue when i wiped it with a clean rag. No pooling or anything crazy. Car probably has over 500 miles on it at this point.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181208/80576b992ddead9ee9c9b4adc5e44a04.jpg)
About 1 tsp worth of liquid in there.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181208/77b3c7a6def6eebc91d534c5fe27d439.jpg)
This is the only baffle inside. I have both valvecover lines running into one side and the intake line on the other side of the baffle so it was doing a little but i decided to add some more surface area using stainless steel pot scrubbers.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181208/e5c56f2307a07dd3490f2948464cbfeb.jpg)
Only went with 2 scrubbers to leave some room and to avoid reducing flow. These are safety wired to the baffle and i made sure there were no loose strands.
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Ill run it for awhile and pull it apart to see if it makes any difference. I need to replace valve cover gaskets at some point and i will reinstall the baffles inside the valve covers then too as i removed them when i tapped the covers for the fittings. Im not having any blowby issues but i wanted to make this setup as efficient as possible.
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Bad ass keep it up bro
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Got another revision and took her out today to get some logs. It was 64* out today and i lit the tires up in 4th on the highway (pavement) rolling into it... I was able to hook on the grooved concrete to get some clean pulls but everything is currently working on the car (knocks on wood).
https://youtu.be/iha9_9Dcn2Q
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Nice video.
Love those coils. I'd eventually like to get a set myself.
I saw a pair of covers for milspec battery terminals! Lol I have some waiting to be installed myself.
Were those pulls at 17psi? Car sounds like it wants to eat up way more boost.
-groovin
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Nice video.
Love those coils. I'd eventually like to get a set myself.
I saw a pair of covers for milspec battery terminals! Lol I have some waiting to be installed myself.
Were those pulls at 17psi? Car sounds like it wants to eat up way more boost.
-groovin
Thanks man. Yes, those pulls were 16-17PSI but current pump gas target is 18PSI, just dialing in boost control solenoid. 18PSI is the most it will see on pump 93, will turn it up a bit with E85 though in the spring.
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If IATs are good and engine/oil temps are stable and your coils arn't breaking up in the higher bandwidth and pressures wouldn't your setup be capable of handling more boost on 93 pump? I've seen many cars hand 24-30lbs on pump so just curious on your thoughts.
-groovin
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If IATs are good and engine/oil temps are stable and your coils arn't breaking up in the higher bandwidth and pressures wouldn't your setup be capable of handling more boost on 93 pump? I've seen many cars hand 24-30lbs on pump so just curious on your thoughts.
-groovin
Its really situational and depends on many factors like compression ratio, turbocharger size/flow rate, ignition timing, and the engines volumetric efficiency. On my current setup pushing more boost could/would lead to detonation so 18 is safe and where we will stop. 24PSI on one engine with a small turbo would be significantly different than another engine with a larger turbo. Since E85 requires more fuel volume to achieve a stoichiometric ratio, the additional fuel/ethanol properties helps cool combustion chamber temps and prevent knocking or detonation which allows the ability to run additional boost and more ignition timing.
Not all about how much PSI of boost you run, for example if i had my cylinder head ported, it would flow much more air which would require less boost but make the same or more power since the volumetric efficiency of the engine increases.
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Roger that.
Mind if I ask what your compression ratio is, what your timing vs rpm vs kpa at WOT, and your target afr? If you don't have the info readily available don't worry about it. I'm always curious about peoples setups and tunes and try to benefit from it however possible.
-groovin
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Roger that.
Mind if I ask what your compression ratio is, what your timing vs rpm vs kpa at WOT, and your target afr? If you don't have the info readily available don't worry about it. I'm always curious about peoples setups and tunes and try to benefit from it however possible.
-groovin
Im running stock bottom end and stock cylinder head. Compression ratio for GTE engines is 8.5:1. I will post a screenshot of a log shortly and answer the rest of your questions.
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Thanks man I'd appreciate that very much.
-groovin
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Hi sir quick question whats the part number for the SHIELD CABLE SOLDER SPLICES you got? Thanks
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Hi sir quick question whats the part number for the SHIELD CABLE SOLDER SPLICES you got? Thanks
This is the one i used. If you go back to splices on this site, there are options for 7 or 8" of wire attached depending on your application.
https://prowireusa.com/p-1089-shield-terminator-with-22-gauge-lead.aspx
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thanks man btw car looking bad ass
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Hi , what brand epoxy you use for the harness? Thanks
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Hi , what brand epoxy you use for the harness? Thanks
Only the best- Resintech RT125.
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Than you sir
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not much has been going on with this lately as weather has been hit or miss but i have had it out a few times since christmas. This dude wanted to film some video for youtube so i painted the hood vent black so it was one color. The plan is to finish body work on it (95% done) and then color match the outer edge and leave the vents black then clear coat it all. Car is fully tuned on pump gas and will start on E85 tune in a few weeks once the weather is more consistent. Ever since i installed the twin pump hanger my fuel gauge has not worked so ordered some ring terminals and this weekend i will pull it out and figure out what happened. I definitely want the gauge working before E85 tuning starts.
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Hadnt spent any money on this thing in like 2 months and didnt know what to do with myself so finally did valve cover gaskets, upper intake manifold gasket, and throttle body gasket. Also painted the blue fittings wrinkle black finally which made a huge difference. I think im going to do the intake piping wrinkle black too. Didnt tap valve covers yet to reinstall baffles but i want to see how much of an improvement the mesh makes in the catchcan first then will throw those back in.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4913/46922949491_9af6c90661_c.jpg)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4906/46922948711_d64c164b20_c.jpg)
Here is the video that he shot, wish i could re do the burnout as it was kinda weak but i will redeem myself dont worry;). Interview is pretty awkward too but o well.
https://youtu.be/kLEvlR0HnPg
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:drive: Only thing you need to spend money on is gas so you can enjoy it more but anything that improves aesthetics is always a plus in my book. Clean and mean 8)
-groovin
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Beautiful car and top notch work, really. I love this build.
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:drive: Only thing you need to spend money on is gas so you can enjoy it more but anything that improves aesthetics is always a plus in my book. Clean and mean 8)
-groovin
Beautiful car and top notch work, really. I love this build.
Thanks guys, appreciate it!
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Video looked pretty good.
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Video looked pretty good.
^^^what he said ;)
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Video was fine man. I could tell you wanted to let her rip but in time right.
Looks great! Damn that maroon interior is so clean!
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Video was fine man. I could tell you wanted to let her rip but in time right.
Looks great! Damn that maroon interior is so clean!
Thanks everyone. Yea most of the pulls he used were when i was feeling out if it would hook, there were better ones but it came out good. Next time i have the car out ill get some in-car footage.
Chasing down the cause of the fuel gauge not working, redid pump positioning using the updated pump bracket, reset fuel pump depth, and redid wiring. Also found out i was grounding out the low fuel light circuit so removed that, verified gauge reads correctly while testing out of car and sweeping float. Installed everything again(10x easier this time) but gauge still doesnt work. I need to pull it out again but thinking its binding or the finger doesnt make contact when its mounted and not reading. Also i am getting 6.5v on the circuit coming from the cluster, does anyone know if thats correct? I have not done any circuit testing but confirmed the fuse isnt blown. My sweep test should rule this out but just curious.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190219/f036d369d50833ced8b3479c6758efad.jpg)
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190219/d9eee74facf8ad6c8c196b044feb13c3.jpg)
And been enjoying this new setup
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190219/646e44aaa47dc67234aa615bdfe93f94.jpg)
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Anyone know who makes that kit he posted about 7 pictures down in the first post? I know its a BN or BN style kit but who specifically makes it?
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Anyone know who makes that kit he posted about 7 pictures down in the first post? I know its a BN or BN style kit but who specifically makes it?
Its a BN knockoff, i bought it second hand so dont know the exact brand as it didnt have any labels on it.
Fitment was horrible so if you plan to save money buying knock off then plan to spend time or money getting it to fit right and look good. The front bumper would have required it being cut in half and shortened to bring the corners flush with the fenders.
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Oh good to know. I'm just looking for that bumper, it looks so good.
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Great build thread!
Gave me a lot of ideas, and confirmed a couple things for me.
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Not much has changed with this thing, been driving it a few times a week when the weather is nice. Fixed the fuel gauge issue finally after some brainstorming. Realized that the sender assembly was probably isolated from chassis ground, so grounded out the pump hanger tophat and the gauge started working. Does anyone know if there is suppose to be a ground strap for the fuel tank to chassis somewhere? Have not searched yet, JW. Also filled up with E85 today and will continue with tuning this week.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190402/c7d2ab5d722443f130b0b4b69dce48d6.jpg)
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hi quick question to where to ground the crank,cam and knock sensor braided sleeve? to computer ground or to computer body? Thanks
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hi quick question to where to ground the crank,cam and knock sensor braided sleeve? to computer ground or to computer body? Thanks
Mine are all grounded to the same ground used as the ecu, which is on the engine block, so grounded to a chassis ground.
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hi quick question to where to ground the crank,cam and knock sensor braided sleeve? to computer ground or to computer body? Thanks
Mine are all grounded to the same ground used as the ecu, which is on the engine block, so grounded to a chassis ground.
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cool thank you sir
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bump from the dead?
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Cant believe i have not updated this in over a year. Not much has changed with the car, have not spent much money on it the past year as it has been running great (knock on wood). During the lockdown, I did some maintenance including fuel filter, in tank filter socks, oil change, and trans fluid change. Also nut/bolt checked everything and all was good. Been trying to post more on IG @2jzfc
Recently got around to paint matching the vent using aerosol cans (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200716/3a89d11b57ed07bf47bdd1598cc393c0.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200716/252e66725ce5b612db5f5c6c73637c0e.jpg)
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And finally decided to tackle this fuel pressure issue and get it resolved for peace of mind and to turn up the boost a bit more. Since tuning for ethanol, i have never been able to get more than 60psi of fuel pressure which ends up causing about 7-9psi of pressure difference between the injector pressure under boost. Setup is twin in tank 450s, -8feed/-6 return. Fuel lab regulator with the large seat and radium inline fuel filter. The fuel pressure sensor is at the end of the rail opposite of the fuel feed inlet.
So far, i have tried a new vacuum source, verified 13.5v at both fuel pumps under boost, and replaced filters hoping maybe they were restricted from ethanol use (both very clean). This issue was present with the old aeromotive FPR also. Fuel pressure is rock solid, just hovers around 60-62psi.
Next things on the list to rule out are;
- there is a 90* fitting right off the pump tophat that i am going to reroute the fuel line to allow straight or 45* fittings.
-inspect again for any kinks or damage to the fuel lines under the vehicle
-apply 25psi briefly to fpr port and monitor fuel pressure at idle to determine if system can even reach 70psi
-remove the filter element from the inline filter housing and see if there are any changes which may support a restriction
-question whether the large seat FPR is allowing too much fuel to return and prevents building a higher pressure
- another thought i have is potentially the fuel pumps im running (*267 part # with 87psi vent pressure) are venting due to exceeding 87psi within the lines before exiting the tank. This could shed light on an issue with the built2apex tophat being too restrictive??
-doubtful but maybe these pumps just really are maxed out and i upgrade to the 525s or run a surge tank.
Open to any other ideas you guys may have or thoughts on my current plan.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200716/a9b86313e1a7ac104be0b18c8e76265c.jpg)
The lower graph, blue line is fuel pressure. Spikes to 64psi then tapers and holds at ~60psi. On the left, you can see difference in fuel pressure/injector pressure.
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Can you just jack the base fuel pressure way up on the regulator and see if it'll go >60 psi with the car off?
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Can you just jack the base fuel pressure way up on the regulator and see if it'll go >60 psi with the car off?
Thats something i can try as well
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Are you running vacuum to your FPR for rising rate pressure?
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Are you running vacuum to your FPR for rising rate pressure?
Yes. Basically, it will rise 1:1 with boost pressure until it hits 60psi of fuel pressure then stop rising. At 24psi of boost the fuel pressure should be 68psi so about 8psi low on fuel pressure. With the car running at a hot idle, fuel pressure is set to 44psi with the vacuum line removed.
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Have you checked your fuel tank vent line? If the tank isn't vented properly, the pump will actually draw a vacuum inside the tank when you're using fuel faster than the air it displaced can be replaced. A small amount of vacuum on the inlet side of a pump can make a big difference on it's total output. Does the gas cap his when you open it to fill fuel? That can be a good indicator that your tank isn't vented properly.
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Have you checked your fuel tank vent line? If the tank isn't vented properly, the pump will actually draw a vacuum inside the tank when you're using fuel faster than the air it displaced can be replaced. A small amount of vacuum on the inlet side of a pump can make a big difference on it's total output. Does the gas cap his when you open it to fill fuel? That can be a good indicator that your tank isn't vented properly.
another good idea, thank you. Yes the stock vent line is intact and I just left it open/hanging off the stock block on the tank. There is no hissing when i open the gas cap but i can datalog a few pulls with the fuel cap loose to rule that out as well.
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Have not had a chance to test further with the fuel cap loose to rule out a vent issue.
Another thought, where is everyone reading fuel pressure from? My sensor is off the back of the rail (opposite side of feed line) but i see many cars running them at the FPR. Wondering if maybe the location is causing biased readings or is affected by the inline union fitting. Could make a jumper harness and mount on the FPR and retest. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200815/be7048c7f7b91d4be81818b0a83ced3b.jpg)
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I always read off the regulator, but I have a mechanical gauge on the fuel rail I use to sanity check when setting base pressure. I've never compared them with the under load though (hard without a dyno).
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brotato this thread has been an inspiration. i wanted to ask about getting your factory gauges to work off the 2j sensors...does that work or what did you have to do?
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brotato this thread has been an inspiration. i wanted to ask about getting your factory gauges to work off the 2j sensors...does that work or what did you have to do?
Only thing i have working on stock cluster is battery voltage, fuel gauge(but currently not reading correct due to sender), and tach. You could probably weld in the stock coolant temp sensor for the temp gauge also if you wanted.
I believe i finally got this fuel pressure issue figured out. As i have mentioned, fuel pressure would stop rising 1:1 with boost and would drop my injection pressure. This prevented us from turning up the boost further on E85 and always bothered me despite it not going lean or anything.
Last week i finally relocated my fuel pressure sensor and also relocated the underhood fuse box while i was in there and cleaned a few other things up. Previously, the fuel pressure sensor was at the front of the fuel rail at the opposite end of the fuel inlet line using this banjo fitting below. I extended the harness and relocated it to the FPR itself. Once starting it back up, my fuel pressure showed to be ~20psi low compared to the old location. I adjusted it back to 43psi and did some pulls and fuel pressure/injector pressure are now rock solid and car seems to idle/start smoother but that could all be in my head.
Not 100% sure but thinking the low pressure readings in the old location could be caused by either a low pressure area from #1 injector being right next to the sensor and the weird angle on the pressure port fitting but who knows. Glad thats figured out and I got to clean up the bay more in the process. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201102/3e31ef853f4db03abf6cb3ef44516d95.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201102/559ee986af306cfb38038f17acd3ad7e.jpg)
Before
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201102/614b4f8772f91b3ad95560a8ecb886fb.jpg)
After
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201102/80bea28ddd315bf23314ff018f80e368.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201102/f0f82a6f8405221c60b54299f862104a.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201102/e20c2dbadb8fd86361f76c3bc8c886d3.jpg)
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Oh and forgot a picture of the bay without the fusebox (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201102/c75b0fba932a46311a808ea3a6f0fa7a.jpg)
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Is that 122psi oil pressure accurate?
I'd be concerned with damaging seals, putting excess stress on the oil pump drive, or even blowing up an oil filter with that much pressure. :o
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Glad your sorted that out!
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Is that 122psi oil pressure accurate?
I'd be concerned with damaging seals, putting excess stress on the oil pump drive, or even blowing up an oil filter with that much pressure. :o
Yes its accurate. We spoke about that a few pages back. Thats normal on a 2JZ and has been that high for 2 years now.
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Appreciate the reply brother. I'm going to attempt to use the 2J senders with the FC gauges for oil pressure and water temp.
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Also high oil pressure is def a thing with the JZ's. On the 1J fc I built years ago my autometer gauge would be pegged and I was worried and posted a video on youtube about it. Got a lot of replies assuring me it's normal.
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Appreciate the reply brother. I'm going to attempt to use the 2J senders with the FC gauges for oil pressure and water temp.
I would avoid using the stock FC oil pressure sender as it likely wont hold up as it was not designed for this application. I also would assume if it did hold up, the readings would just constantly keep your gauge pegged and wouldnt tell you much other than you have some oil pressure.
Also high oil pressure is def a thing with the JZ's. On the 1J fc I built years ago my autometer gauge would be pegged and I was worried and posted a video on youtube about it. Got a lot of replies assuring me it's normal.
power house racing has a big thread on it where they documented oil pressures at different oil filter housing setups.