NoRotors.com - RX7 Engine Swap Forum
Technical Information => Build Threads => Topic started by: Cam_Ron on July 12, 2013, 06:20:58 PM
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*This build thread is to help keep me motivated and for some input as the car starts to come together*
In my opinion, RX-7's are great cars, and I really like the rotary engines that they come with but I just can't justify the expense of a reliable 500+whp 13b. With that said I've been putting jz's into FC's since 2009 and have had alot of fun doing so. Here is my current project:
Goals:
-500+whp on pump gas, 700+whp on pump + meth
- 10 second quarter mile of some sort
- 3000lb with me in it and all fluids
- capable on the road course
- street legal
Mods to date:
Engine/Trans:
2jz-gte/v160
- gsc s2 cams
- gsc behive springs
- gsc Ti retainers
- gsc viton valve seals
- RMR 90mm throttle body
- Sheetmetal intake manifold
- custom ss exhaust manifold
- -8AN valve covers
- D585 ignition coil conversion
- TiAl mvr44 wg
- Greddy Type R bov
- Mishimoto 24x12x4" intercooler
- koyo rad with AN inlet and outlet
- Megasquirt ms3x
- Greddy T88-34d (billet wheel ready to go in some day)
- - 8 fuel rail
- 1680cc injectors
- dual bosch 044 pumps (-6 line each to y before rail)
- Al fuel cell
- Integrated engineering surge tank
Body/Interior
- All rust cut out and repaired
- cage
- Underside and wheel wells are POR 15'd
- Interior and engine bay are painted white
- Ronin widebody fenders and quarters
- shine fc2000 rep front bumper
- Sparco pro2000 seat
- Cobra Evolution seat
- Stack st8130p
- OMP wheel and quick release
Suspension/Brakes/Wheels
- Front and rear subframes, knuckles etc sandblasted and POR 15'd
- New calipers and porterfield r4 pads
- supernow fd rear rotor conversion
- supernow outer tie rod ends
- Delrin bushings (subframe, control arms, trailing arms, diff)
- ST sway bars with spherical end links
- Panasport c5c2's with custom lips 11x17 front , 275/40/17 Sumitomo HTRZ II (chunky I know) and 11.5x17 rear with 315/35/17 Nitto NT555R's)
I still need to get many things before this is complete but some of the first items will be:
- coilovers
- aem tru boost
- aem failsafe wideband
- wire/relays etc for chassis and starting/charging harness from scratch
- more nozzles for the meth kit (thinking about one in each runner)
- paint for hood, doors, fenders, bumpers, quarters, and the rest of the car
- driveshaft
- brake lines
Here are some pictures:
(http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g18/91ImpulseRS/GOPR0011_zpsed0804d0.jpg) (http://s52.photobucket.com/user/91ImpulseRS/media/GOPR0011_zpsed0804d0.jpg.html)
(http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g18/91ImpulseRS/GOPR0012_zpsc0bd93af.jpg) (http://s52.photobucket.com/user/91ImpulseRS/media/GOPR0012_zpsc0bd93af.jpg.html)
(http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g18/91ImpulseRS/GOPR0030_zpsfa455463.jpg) (http://s52.photobucket.com/user/91ImpulseRS/media/GOPR0030_zpsfa455463.jpg.html)
(http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g18/91ImpulseRS/GOPR0032_zpsab0a3cef.jpg) (http://s52.photobucket.com/user/91ImpulseRS/media/GOPR0032_zpsab0a3cef.jpg.html)
(http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g18/91ImpulseRS/IMG-20130311-00372_zpsbe2ee060.jpg) (http://s52.photobucket.com/user/91ImpulseRS/media/IMG-20130311-00372_zpsbe2ee060.jpg.html)
(http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g18/91ImpulseRS/IMG-20120815-00161_zps2a27b129.jpg) (http://s52.photobucket.com/user/91ImpulseRS/media/IMG-20120815-00161_zps2a27b129.jpg.html)
(http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g18/91ImpulseRS/imagejpeg_2rea_zps12afccab.jpg) (http://s52.photobucket.com/user/91ImpulseRS/media/imagejpeg_2rea_zps12afccab.jpg.html)
(http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g18/91ImpulseRS/imagejpeg_2kl_zpsd2b7df00.jpg) (http://s52.photobucket.com/user/91ImpulseRS/media/imagejpeg_2kl_zpsd2b7df00.jpg.html)
(Taken by RB)
This is where the car is as of this evening:
(http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g18/91ImpulseRS/GOPR0069_zpsb7faa638.jpg) (http://s52.photobucket.com/user/91ImpulseRS/media/GOPR0069_zpsb7faa638.jpg.html)
(http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g18/91ImpulseRS/GOPR0075_zps58d1b3f1.jpg) (http://s52.photobucket.com/user/91ImpulseRS/media/GOPR0075_zps58d1b3f1.jpg.html)
(http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g18/91ImpulseRS/GOPR0076_zps8eb676b4.jpg) (http://s52.photobucket.com/user/91ImpulseRS/media/GOPR0076_zps8eb676b4.jpg.html)
(http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g18/91ImpulseRS/GOPR0078_zpse3e9b692.jpg) (http://s52.photobucket.com/user/91ImpulseRS/media/GOPR0078_zpse3e9b692.jpg.html)
(http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g18/91ImpulseRS/GOPR0077_zps01402b11.jpg) (http://s52.photobucket.com/user/91ImpulseRS/media/GOPR0077_zps01402b11.jpg.html)
(http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g18/91ImpulseRS/GOPR0081_zps6763cc99.jpg) (http://s52.photobucket.com/user/91ImpulseRS/media/GOPR0081_zps6763cc99.jpg.html)
(http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g18/91ImpulseRS/GOPR0079_zps68d435df.jpg) (http://s52.photobucket.com/user/91ImpulseRS/media/GOPR0079_zps68d435df.jpg.html)
(http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g18/91ImpulseRS/GOPR0080_zps5c7eda18.jpg) (http://s52.photobucket.com/user/91ImpulseRS/media/GOPR0080_zps5c7eda18.jpg.html)
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Currently working on my transmission mount and trying to figure out how I'm going to plug all of the holes in the floor and firewall in a sanitary way. Any ideas on what I should do for plugs?
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Get an assorted grommet kit. Or post a wtb on rx7 club for anyone with a parts car.
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A set of grommets like this http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Grommets/grommets.html (http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Grommets/grommets.html) would work for the firewall and I suppose I could use push plugs (like the ones that hold in oem wheel well plastic) for all of the little holes created when you remove the interior and sound deadening. Any feedback from those with stripped interiors?
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Nice work on making it essentially a "clean sheet of paper" to start with. Can't wait to see the progress.
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:popcorn:
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Thanks guys. Not much progress to report other than revised the brackets that secure the fuel rail to the intake manifold and ordering some parts from the Mazda dealer to rebuild the diff (Has anybody done this?).
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Awesome! I'll be watching this for sure!
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Are you going to piant the exterior back red ?
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Are you going to piant the exterior back red ?
The plan is to paint the exterior the same colour as the interior and engine bay. It's called GM Olympic white.
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Put the intake manifold and exhaust manifold + turbo on.
The exhaust manifold needs to be modified some more so the turbine housing will clear the strut tower and I need to decide on the final position of the wastegate.
As for the intake manifold, the mounting tabs that secure the fuel rail were interfering with the cps sensors (not required with my ems so I'll make blanks at some point). A little cutting and welding solved that problem though. I even got a free TIG lesson out of it.
(http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g18/91ImpulseRS/GOPR0089_zps5967e957.jpg)
(http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g18/91ImpulseRS/GOPR0088_zps95874020.jpg)
(http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g18/91ImpulseRS/GOPR0087_zps2de76a70.jpg)
(http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g18/91ImpulseRS/GOPR0085_zps6e4dc428.jpg)
(http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g18/91ImpulseRS/GOPR0083_zps4f44eeee.jpg)
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Looking great!
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Nice! Why don't go E85?
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Thanks. E85 isn't available. The highest ethanol content I can get is 10%. I'm hoping that with a proper meth setup I can get close to the same power as an e85 setup would make.
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Looks great! Looking forward to watching this come together! :cheers:
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Thanks fellas. It looks like I may have this weekend off. If that's the case I think I'll put the front end together and look into the dual master brake setup/fuel system. Updates to follow.
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Not much of an update but I purchased a used Rotora 4 piston big brake kit with 2 piece 330mm rotors for the front. They fit with a 5mm spacer. As a result my nearly new tII calipers, rotors, ss lines and Porterfield pads will be up for sale as a set. PM if interested.
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I almost put a 300zx TT in my FC. But it looked like I would only have enough clearance to put my pinky finger between the motor and engine bay. Too tight for me to work on, hope you have enough room. Cant wait to see it finished and in that bay. :cheers:
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(http://imageshack.com/a/img14/2798/ndb2.jpg)
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Bought some Rotora 4 pot calipers and 2 piece 330mm rotors. Should be an improvement with decent pads.
As a result my nearly new TII calipers, rotors, lines and Porterfield pads are now available. PM if interested.
(http://imageshack.com/scaled/640x480/14/ndb2.jpg)
Fits with a 5mm spacer.
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I played around a bit today with the idea of a v mount setup for the intercooler and radiator. Currently the tb side of the intercooler piping when mounted traditionally is already about 90% finished but I'm still not decided either way.
Any thoughts from those that have ran v-mount and traditional setups?
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/31/8iae.jpg)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/716/xc5y.jpg)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/59/uawp.jpg)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/716/ye90.jpg)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/22/uuoj.jpg)
And here are a few pictures with the front fenders, bumper and hood (with a close up of clearance for those that were asking)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/28/vy61.jpg)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/11/6gz6.jpg)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/59/sf52.jpg)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/560/7sq2.jpg)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/24/3fto.jpg)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/199/izls.jpg)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1024x768q90/713/s4er.jpg)
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what did you do for mounts? Ive looked at this swap a few times and the only option I find is from JZswap.com and its around 2k for the swap kit.
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I made the mounts myself.
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there are plenty of mounts, just most will not clear the hood. same issue im sitting with at the moment.
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These mounts put the engine as far back and as low as possible without modifying or lowering the subframe. A TII hood will close when sections of the bracing are removed and the scoop insert is slightly modified.
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After some consideration I'll be going with a conventional radiator and intercooler layout for this year. Sometime down the road I'd like to experiment with an intercooler/radiator setup that occupies the same space as the factory radiator in an over-under orientation. The reduction in surface area of both cores would be made up for with increased thickness and significant ducting.
On another note I've put all new bearings into the differential housing and am ready to tq the crush sleeve to spec and install the carbonetic 2 way. Has anybody done this before in an s4 or s5 diff?
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The best combination by far great body and great motor Awesome !!!
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It runs. I still need to make a radiator/intercooler mount, exhaust and finish some of the plumbing but the engine bay is nearly done.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/841/g91hb.jpg)
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I finished rebuilding the diff and installing the 2 way, the exhaust is built up to the rear tire and final wiring has started. Just waiting on coilovers and some more time to work on it.
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Hey Cam_Ron, just found this thread and started a membership just to tell you how awesome this thing is. See it's been a while since you've updated so I hope its still going, looks like you really did it right so far.
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Not to long ago I owned an fc and a great running SC300 5 speed and I spent a lot of time looking at them parked next to each other, picturing the 2j in the fc, but definitely didn't have the confidence to go about trying something like that. Now I still own the SC and have more friends who would love to tackle something like this and have a lot of automotive and fab experience. Seeing projects like this has inspired me to go for it!
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Currently I am in "an undisclosed location in southwest Asia" and when I get back I'll have more disposable cash than ever in my life, and after some wise investing I want to dive into this. I'll be keeping real basic at first, just engine rebuild and swap it in with no forced induction or anything. Hopefully after thoroughly looking for answers else where I'll be able to get some pointers from you without getting to annoying!
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Once more, Heroic build!
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This build is just bannanas! Looking forward to more updates to this epic build.
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Thanks for the encouragement, I will try to update this thread soon. If anybody is considering this swap and has questions don't hesitate to ask them. I recently installed a hoist which has made working on the car quite a bit easier. I also weighed the car the other night and its looking like it should be around the 2600lb mark in street legal trim.
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Found a great deal on this so it needed to be done.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/450x450q90/908/9A8uOX.jpg)
I'm really tempted to gather the other components (tank,pressure lines,block feed fitting,filter adapter,cooler and possibly a vac limiting valve) and install it on my factory bottom end. It should improve ring seal and provide a greater sump capacity at the least.
Something else I'm considering when I go dry sump is to run a mechanical fuel pump off of the rear of the pump. Its the ultimate in simplicity and could make for both a higher flowing and more reliable pump arrangement than I currently have.
The only question is if a surge tank is necessary on a mechanical fuel pump setup if I were to run a check valve inline near to the tank (sumped fuel cell) and the feed line is of appreciable diameter (-10).
Thoughts?
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I'll be the first to say that big wings aren't necessarily to my taste but after having driven a 500hp fc at high speed without a wing, it's something that I feel is required.
With that said here are a few pictures:
Carbon element (I'm told it's an Origin?) and Ronin mounts. Please excuse the current state of disorganization that my garage is in :)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/400x400q90/674/xjqlK8.jpg)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/400x400q90/673/KXkQHf.jpg)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/400x400q90/540/Ne8L8p.jpg)
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getting there...
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this is amazing
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Nice build. I'm not sure if you need a surge tank with a sumped tank and mech. pump, it may depend on the typr of driving you intend to do (sustained lateral Gs) but I will just say that a -10 flexible hose is going to have a smaller ID than a -10 hard line - in between -8 hard line and -10 hard line. This of course varies depending on hose type/construction.
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I've heard of some drag biased setups running in the way I described above with great reliability. I plan to use this car on the road course more than at the drag strip so I'm thinking I should error on the side of caution and integrate a surge tank of some kind.
As for the variable id of -10 hose, you are correct. My plan was to use stainless tubing from the firewall to the rear subframe (true nominal id) with flexible hose on the rail and tank ends. I could possibly make the stainless section -30 or so and weld -10 fittings to the end of a cap. That way it ends up acting as a surge tank and not taking up much extra space.
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They have finally arrived.
A few small issues that I expect the vendor will correct but overall decently made and most importantly very light!
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/450x400q90/909/g0t53Z.jpg)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/450x400q90/910/ik5PRq.jpg)[/quote]
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That door actually looks really good!
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WOW! how much $$ and what is the weight on them?
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Awesome car!
Do you have any pics of the dp? It looks like it must have been a tight squeeze behind that exhaust manifold.
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Where did you get those doors?
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I'm loving this build. The coolest FC build I think I've seen. I can't wait to see it finished.
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Thanks for the kind words.
I'm working out some issues with the vendor who sold me the doors so I'll wait until he has had an opportunity to correct them before mentioning where I got them.
Pricing information will need to be discussed with with the vendor.
When I install the glass, seals and lock mechanism I'll weigh them. The difference must be at least 75lbs for the pair though.
As for the exhaust question, the downpipe wasn't too bad but the rest of the exhaust was tight. A 100mm exhaust under an fc is a tight fit.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/400x400q90/901/NytyKs.jpg)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/400x400q90/538/yILHUH.jpg)
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That exhaust looks good. I know what you mean about how hard it is to fit a large pipe under an fc. Guessing you went under/around the diff and out the back with it?
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I did. The last picture shows the exhaust pointing straight for the diff. From there it changes direction towards the factory tail pipe relief on the passenger side of the bumper.
Here is a picture of where the muffler ends up:
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/400x400q200/661/lO6pqq.png)
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ya deff let me know. Would love to get some carbon doors. My pass door skin was replaced before i got the car and who ever did it made a MESS of the door, so i need a door anyway.
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Rasty makes fiberglass doors, worth checking out, unless you put 8-10 grand down 'carbon' doors will be fiberglass anyway.
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rasty?
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Japenese car companies have cool names like Car Make Rasty, Car Modify Wonder, Dart Izumi, Sheepdog Professor.
http://www.rasty.tv/products/index.html (http://www.rasty.tv/products/index.html)
America:
__________ Engineering
__________ Precision
__________ Products
__________ Speed
__________ Perfomance
__________ Racing
shit drives me nuts "hello, this is Precision Race Engineering Performance how can I help you?" BRUHHHHHHHHHHHH.
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how in the hell do i buy something from them?
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http://www.rhdjapan.com/rasty-frp-door-set-fc3s-fd3s.html (http://www.rhdjapan.com/rasty-frp-door-set-fc3s-fd3s.html)
1000 to ship though. shwooooooooooooooooooooo.
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very nice
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Update:
-I decided to change the front bumper from a Shine fc2000 rep to a real RE - AMEMIYA full cowl spl.
- ECU has been changed from an ms3x to a ProEFI 128
- The car is back from paint. I went with BMW Carbon black metallic. It looks quite black in the shade or at night and blue in direct sunlight. I really like it.
Lots of small things to address before the car is ready for the road:
- street legal wiring
- finalize engine harness and interior wiring
- plumb front and rear brake circuits and mount pedal box
- finalize driveshaft to diff adapter
- install fd rear brake setup
- re key hatch lock cylinder
- install check valve at 044 discharge ports
- fabricate a cover for the fuel fill port
- mount wing
- machine shifter bushings
- alignment
- complete ecu calibration on dyno
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Badass
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wow awesome
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Wow! That looks mean as hell. I like it!
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Thanks for the kind words. Getting the body work and paint taken care of has really made me anxious to finish the car.
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(https://lifewithjson.files.wordpress.com/2016/08/img_9678-copy.jpg?w=1200&h=800)
(https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/t31.0-8/14067877_1584829805144199_1378245555848631895_o.jpg)
Made it to a local car show. Over the next few weeks I plan to ready it for street use and complete the tune on our dyno.
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Finally street legal and driving around at the end of summer/start of fall. Looking forward to using it a bunch on the street and track this year.
Pump gas tune has a bit more in it and I am debating if I should continue down the path of pump and meth or just use race gas for the all in tune. Thoughts?
[smg id=8863 type=preview align=center caption="28937497091 7208d6e535 k"]
[smg id=8865 type=preview align=center caption="MBP 1130"]
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Great looking piece. That thing should kill it on the track.
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Looks killer, nice job
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Yep, bad ass. I like it.
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Great looking piece. That thing should kill it on the track.
I'm really looking forward to shaking it down on the track. So many things to evaluate.
At the moment I am looking at tire options. My local supplier is suggesting NT01's in the same size as what I have currently (275/40r/17 front and 315/35r/17 rear). Any thoughts on these tires and those sizes?
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what does it weigh?
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2576lbs with a full tank of fuel when I weighed it last. Still more easy weight to come out in the hatch frame and glass.
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I have a track day booked in about 3 weeks so there are alot of little details to address.
Here is the plan:
- Revise midpipe for clearance
- Bleed and set brake balance
- Sound deaden interior/ heat barrier interior
- Wire,install and map with new ProEFI H.O. coils
- Oil change, coolant flush, fab overflow canister
- Adjust pedals
- Corner balance
The plan is to prepare it as much as I can for the cars first shake down on the track. I'm sure there will still be things that will need to be addressed though
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Track day was a success overall.
Steering, suspension, brakes, tires, diff and transmission felt great. The car is able to maintain traction around the 550whp mark without much issue.
The cooling system was not quite up to the task however. After about 7 laps the coolant temp began to rise sharply. To address this, the plan is to experiment a bit with a v mount setup and some ducting. I suspect the issue is lack of airflow and not the capacity of the heat exchanger itself.
Here are some pictures:
[smg id=9205 type=preview align=center caption="1O6A1758"]
[smg id=9206 type=preview align=center caption="1O6A1761"]
[smg id=9207 type=preview align=center caption="1O6A1784"]
[smg id=9208 type=preview align=center caption="1O6A1850 (1)"]
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I could see airflow being an issue, I bet that thing was pretty fun on the track
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How close together is everything up front?
If you didn't have that t2 hood I'd say you should ventilate it.
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The air gap between the intercooler and radiator was about 20cm. The bottom of the hood and a panel on the underside between the two heat exchangers were used to direct airflow.
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Are your wing mounts that attach the wing upright to the deck made
By voltex?
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Yea you need ducting and some hood vents and you'll probably be ok. Looks great out there.
With the front bumper so cut up, you are probably not getting enough air through the radiator at speed. Do you have an undertray? How far back does it go and is it sealed up and ducted to the IC and radiator?
Forced induction track cars can be challenging to keep cool.
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Yes, the uprights for the wing are FC specific and from Voltex.
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I don't have a proper under tray, just a panel that directs air from the back of the intercooler to the front of the radiator.
I would love to hear from any forum members that have a larger air to air intercooler in either a traditional mounting position or v mount and road race their FC.
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You need an underdray that seals the bottom of the car and runs to the back of the radiator or front of the K member. And in your case it will need fitted sides that seal off around the intercooler. You want the air that goes in through the front of the car to have only one real path to take, and that is through the radiator. You may be ok then leaving the hood as is, but it is likely You will need a vented hood since you are turboed. You'll want to vent the hood behind the radiator. If you do all of that you will probably be fine.
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Sounds like a decent way forward with the current setup. I've started making some moves towards the v-mount conversion and will decide on the way forward in the next day or two.
Thanks for all of the input.
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Sounds like a decent way forward with the current setup. I've started making some moves towards the v-mount conversion and will decide on the way forward in the next day or two.
Thanks for all of the input.
No problem.
To be fair, you are going to do all the same work to get a V mount to work right, plus reconfigure the entire front end plumbing. My issue with the v mount is by definition you are dumping extra air under the car, where we want to remove it. With a vented hood you are pulling a higher percentage of air up and over the car.
Without a vented hood, it is all the same, but you are not going to run a v mount without a vented hood anyway.
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True, the one distinct advantage of the v-mount configuration is the amount of direct airflow across both heat exchangers with proper ducting. As for the vented hood, I don't think that I have much of a choice given the relative position of the front of the engine and where the intercooler would need to sit.
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That is true, but the hot air wash through your radiator is not drastically hotter after going through your intercooler, and is still fine to cool the car. OEMs do stacked configurations like that all day every day.
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Love seeing this car on the track! :cheers: Jealous of the CF doors, on my list at some point.
I ran a front mount with my procharger for a long time with no issues but you absolutely need to have everything sealed around the intercooler core and from the intercooler to the radiator core, I even had a/c at one point and it never caused a problem. Stacking coolers works just fine, you can see pics in my build thread and gallery for reference. My radiator core is only 26x14x3 so its fairly small, intercooler was fairly large, dont remember core size at the moment. Road raced for a long time with that setup, miss it too haha.
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Thanks for the contributions fellas.
I attended the second track day with my club and had some marginal success with the original rad and intercooler orientation. After a complete bleed, some ducting (not complete) between the intercooler and radiator and 2 dedicated hoses directing air from the front of the bumper to the space between the intercooler and radiator it still gets hot and wants to boil over after 4 or 5 laps.
The cooling system has a functioning thermostat, it is filled with water and water wetter and the fan works.
At the moment there are 2 theories:
1) Radiator cap is weak and system does not maintain adequate pressure causing a premature boiling point
2) The cooling system is not able to be bled completely given the relative position of the rad cap
I have tried a vacuum and conventional bleed with the same result and have a bleed petcock at the highest point in the system. For this reason I am wondering about coolant system pressure.
My plan to address this is to install a coolant swirl pot with cap at the front of the cylinder head between the upper radiator hose and the water pump. This will then have a hose from it which will bleed into an over flow canister. Radiator will have the cap removed and welded shut. I would also like to perform some additional ducting on the sides between the radiator and intercooler.
My hope is that this should fix things for the next track day which is on the 12th of August.
Let me know what you guys think.
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Radiator cap wise I would recommend a 20# cap, I use a Moroso as they let you pick your pressures. I use a Moroso swirl pot/tank on the front of the engine as my radiator is really low, its the only way i can bleed the system correctly. Tie the swirl pot into a overflow tank somewhere for expansion/contraction as well.
You really need to make sure the radiator and intercooler are completely sealed off to the incoming air flow, it doesn't take much of a hole or crack to loose that incoming air pressure to where you don't want it to go. For reference I forgot to seal an area on the sides where the oil cooler lines come in from and it increased my temps on the car by about 15*, the area was a 1/2" gap between the side of the radiator and side panel where i forgot to re-install aluminum foil tape.
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To echo Erik a bit, I saw 10-20* coolant temp differences with just perfecting my ducting/shrouding for the radiator. It's a HUGE difference. A front air dam is super helpful also.
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Thanks for the empirical feedback. I'll make sure to not leave any ducting on the table for the next event.
Erik, I think the original carbon splitter you used on your car would work well on mine. Are you able to let me know the details? Do you still have it by any chance?
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To fully echo Erik, I also run a 20# Moroso cap, and a Howe swirl pot with an overflow tank. I have a low radiator as well, and the swirl pot makes filling the car with coolant simple.
The cap is key, because once a cap vents, you lose coolant and start a cycle of creating air bubbles that spirals into an overheating condition. My friend overheated and killed his Small Block Ford at the track and we traced it back to a bad radiator cap and bad fuel pressure regulator.. at the same time.
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A bit of an update:
- I cut the cap off of the R32 GTR Koyo rad that I've been running for years and sealed it with a plate. There is now a coolant swirl pot with a 150kPa cap on it at the top of the cylinder head between it and the upper port on the rad. The system runs cooler overall and is much easier to bleed. When its moving, temps are able to stay in check but it gets a bit hot while sitting in traffic on a 32C test day. I've ordered a form fitting sheet metal fan shroud and some different fans in an attempt to address this. With any luck, these moves along with the ducting might solve my issues.
- Erik kindly found his old carbon splitter and made me a very fair deal on it. This will be the basis for the ducting when it arrives.
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Fan shroud seems to be doing its job nicely. Temps never go over 90C even while sitting in traffic in 25C ambient temperature. With any luck, the ducting should be the last piece of the puzzle.
On another note, I think I am close to the limit of what my intercooler can effectively deal with. That will be another interesting test to come.
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Those old school HKS can pulleys look bad ass.
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I like them more than the new ones. They were new in 2002 :)
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Small update:
I was prepping the car for another track day and knew that I needed to swap to my spare TII axles (passenger side inner CV was in poor shape). I assumed that this was the cause of a rhythmic thump that becomes significant under light load.When coasting at any speed it does not make much of a noise. To investigate this, I detached both axles from the diff and ran the car through the gears on a hoist. The vibration was non existent inside of the car and a colleague was unable to detect it with his ears or stethoscope from underneath.
After swapping to my spare axles, the noise was reduced but is still present. It sounds and feels like it is localized to the end of the trans/start of driveshaft at this point.
I'm going to investigate further as soon as I get a chance, but I thought I should mention it to see if anybody else has experienced a similar issue.
Notes:
- Adapter from trans output flange to driveshaft is concentric, adequately fastened and statically balanced
- U joints in the driveshaft are 1350 series and all in good shape
- Driveshaft angle is very similar to what I have used since 2009 in a variety of engine swaps to the TII diff in an FC
- Driveshaft was dynamically balanced and the weights have not come off
- This issue was not present until the last track day.