NoRotors.com - RX7 Engine Swap Forum
Technical Information => Build Threads => Topic started by: Andrew R on May 05, 2010, 11:15:37 AM
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found a decent deal and I'm takin it.
60,000 miles ;)
1st matter at hand is 5 lug conversion, then I'm going to save up for the swap! I will log the progress here. * I'm excited!
***UPDATED*** 8-19-2009
here is a brief look at the current season...
(http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47b8d726b3127ccec55b2319495c00000040O00AYuWThk4cN2IPbz4e/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/)
(http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47b8d726b3127ccec55bb9cbc8f300000040O00AYuWThk4cN2IPbz4e/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/)
(http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47b9dd35b3127ccec6c8e84604e200000040O00AYuWThk4cN2IPbz4e/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/)
Donor car, 2005 GTO 1900 miles, owner is swapping in a LS3
(http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47b9d827b3127ccec7188fd2508600000040O00AYuWThk4cN2IPbz4e/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/)
YouTube - My soon to be LS2 for the FC swap (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W4oH7iq6_oU#)
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3469/3799482749_845067ea5f_o.jpg)
(http://www.loosemoves.com/gallery/d/34970-1/IMG_7837.jpg)
(http://www.loosemoves.com/gallery/d/34964-1/IMG_7831.jpg)
Attached is an Excel file of proposed parts, it is by no means a complete list yet, it's a work in progress... If the rotary can hang on long enough to finish the season the build will start in Oct... If not I get a head start on my winter project.
Here is the short list:
Gutted... I mean nothing on the inside but business... drift car.
LS2/T56 possibly a used NASCAR 4 speed, still up in the air.
Torquer V3 231/234 .643"/.598" 112 LSA
Valve springs, retainers, pushrods (going with TSP package)
Engine is a longblock so I need all the F-body accessories/brackets
Turn One PS pump
ATI crank pully
Bunch of ARP/Katech bolts
LS6 intake manifold, injectors, TB ( may need bigger injectors)
F Body ECU and Harness I have HP Tuners
8pt cage (built by me :) )
3qt accusump with manual valve
Canton remote Oil filter
Canton oil cooler
F-Body Pan/tray
Improved racing baffle
Melling High pressure oil pump
Sumped Fuel tank
Walboro 255 inline pump
Aeromotive filter
Aeromotive FPR
-8 Stainless lines to -6 return (everything done is SS lines)
Aeromotive fuel rails
JTR 1-3/4 Longtubes
3" straight out the rear (no mufflers)
RPS twin friction clutch and RPS custom FW 32lbs combined weight
Wilwood 7/8 MC with adaptor
Granny's mount kit with solid motor mounts
C5 Vette DS (modified)
remote bleeder (if I go T56)
Big radiator and be-cool 2600cfm fan
I have a good bit of this stuff still quite a bit to accumulate.... expecting build to be done in early-mid spring 2010
Here ya go snitches:
I cannot go lower without a good roll and pull in the front.... I'm borrowing the fender roller this week...
(http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47b9dd35b3127ccec6c80d00444e00000040O00AYuWThk4cN2IPbz4e/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/)
(http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47b9dd35b3127ccec6c8e84604e200000040O00AYuWThk4cN2IPbz4e/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/)
Baller lugs:
(http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47b9dd35b3127ccec6c9c5ec648a00000040O00AYuWThk4cN2IPbz4e/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/)
nice flush fit:
(http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47b9dd35b3127ccec6c83b4ac52f00000040O00AYuWThk4cN2IPbz4e/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/)
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DIFF SAGA
After doing some research and looking into many options I decided that I'm going to stay with the TII diff. I then started to research aftermarket LSD units and decided that OS Giken was the way to go, it is nearly double the price of a Kazz or Tomei unit -but the testimony from hardcore SCCA, BMW club racers, running the diff for 3 seasons without a rebuild made me pay more attention and do more research. Several race teams have disassembled the unit to inspect and repair only to simply reassemble it and put it back in. I asked the rep at OS for pricing on rebuild parts and he simply said that he has never sold any -However if you ask Tomei or Kazz they know the rebuild kit price right off the top of their heads, and suggest doing it every season... and from what I heard Tomei and Kazz are indeed the same unit
Another couple factoids that impressed me is that the OS unit can simply be dropped in and go... it is machined with such precision that no "break in" is needed... however I will still change the fluid after my first event. Also came to find that Toyota is the parent company. The diff is also "tunable" meaning you can adjust the torque setting and timing for engagement.
anyway here it is:
OS Giken 1.5 way
new seals, bearings, ect and proper stub shafts
MMR Diff bushing
(http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47b9da25b3127ccec69d4df5c86700000040O00AYuWThk4cN2IPbz4e/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/)
(http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47b9da25b3127ccec69d9bb3497a00000040O00AYuWThk4cN2IPbz4e/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/)
Took it to my transmission guy:
RX-Truck:
(http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47b9da25b3127ccec69ce626a83500000040O00AYuWThk4cN2IPbz4e/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/)
The OS unit requires these stubbies:
From OSGiken.net
For Viscous LSD equipped vehicles, exchange with Genuine Mazda side flange pn: P019-27-270B x2 and snap ring pn: P016-27-421 x2. Open differential vehicles need no additional modification
new vs. old
The new ones, well they are used but new to me are in front with the VLSD stubs behind
(http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47b9da25b3127ccec69ca39ae83300000040O00AYuWThk4cN2IPbz4e/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/)
I was concerned about setting the backlash properly and did some investigation...
I talked to a reputable local rotary shop (KDR Rotary in PA) and they told me to cut the FSM specs in half when setting it up. The first few they did to the lower end of the FSM specs and ended up with way too much backlash later down the road. He said after a short "break in" of a few 100 miles I'll be in perfect shape.
Per S4 manual page 9-44
Backlash is supposed to be between 0.09-0.11mm (0.0035-0.0043in)
I had mine set to .0010 inch = 0.0254 millimeters which is a bit tight -but will work out perfect according to KDR, Mazdatrix and some board members.
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OK got everything back today... I'm going to clean it up a bit -but it came out nice... here it is:
(http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47b9da29b3127ccec684ad314fe800000040O00AYuWThk4cN2IPbz4e/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/)
(http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47b9da29b3127ccec684d8668e2d00000040O00AYuWThk4cN2IPbz4e/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/)
here is the MMR bushings:
(http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47b9da29b3127ccec68530a32fe000000040O00AYuWThk4cN2IPbz4e/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/)
Going in tomorrow afternoon :naughty:
I also installed some custom knuckles for more angle, dorifto! just need to build and install the tie rods.
(http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47b9da29b3127ccec684369a0f9600000040O00AYuWThk4cN2IPbz4e/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/)
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j148/74chevynova/Picture046-1.jpg)
(http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j148/74chevynova/Picture044-1.jpg)
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15x8 +0 in the front
15x8 -4 rear
I went with these because my pathetic NA rotary cannot spin the 18's while drifting.
LS2 on the way!!!
(http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47b9d830b3127ccec703a412330600000040O00AYuWThk4cN2IPbz4e/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D720/ry%3D480/)
(http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47b9d830b3127ccec703f5d6737200000040O00AYuWThk4cN2IPbz4e/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D720/ry%3D480/)
(http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47b9d830b3127ccec703bfd7735600000040O00AYuWThk4cN2IPbz4e/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D720/ry%3D480/)
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OK here goes...
you all know the modified knuckle -with the stock rod end pick up... look a few posts above if you don't.
Here is the modified knuckle:
(http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47b9d905b3127ccec7e492d6bc0f00000040O00AYuWThk4cN2IPbz4e/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/)
Now you'll notice right off that the ID of the new pick up point is different... larger and not tapered like the factory pick-up.
This posed the issue of finding a heim joint that would work, by work I mean thread on to the factory tie rods and have a 14mm ID for the new pick-up point. I know the mazdatrix ones would work... but they are procey and suck donkey dick... I threw out the question on a few sites and George from AZ informed me that the S13 rod ends were the same thread pitch as the FC, M12x1.25 and that a Ksport S13 kit might just work. Now K-Sport S13 kits come with a tapered bolt in them as well that is easily removed leaving a 14mm ID heim joint thats mated up to a M12x 1.25 buckle... perfect! I now have proper parts! I know K-sport sucks -but I'd rather spend $100 for a set and figure out exactly what I need then get something baller once I know it's going to work.
here is the new rod end and straight bolt
NOW I KNOW THIS IS NOT A CASTLE BOLT ECT -TEST FIT HERE!!! SO DON'T SAY ANYTHING! I KNOW ALREADY! proper bolts are on the way.
here is the K-sport rod end with new non-taper bolt:
[SIZE="3"](again this will be replaced with a castle bolt)[/SIZE]
(http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47b9d905b3127ccec7e5f360dc5d00000040O00AYuWThk4cN2IPbz4e/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/)
Stock vs. K-sport.
(http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47b9d905b3127ccec7e5adc7dcd500000040O00AYuWThk4cN2IPbz4e/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D720/ry%3D480/)
time to fit it:
(http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47b9d905b3127ccec7e52937dc6700000040O00AYuWThk4cN2IPbz4e/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/)
as expected fits right on:
(http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47b9d905b3127ccec7e4b8fe3d0200000040O00AYuWThk4cN2IPbz4e/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/)
Now it is simply a matter of attaching the tie rod to the spindle! almost done!!! or am I?
here is the two put together:
(http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47b9d905b3127ccec7e5fe5c9cff00000040O00AYuWThk4cN2IPbz4e/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/)
Mega angle! -but wait... no adjustment!
if you look back at the pic above of the rod end and the tie rod put together you'll notice that I have it run in as close as I could get it, or as short as I could make the tie rod...
that was still too long, when I assembled everything back together with the Steering wheel centered and the tie rods adjusted as short as possible I was toed out on both sides really bad, could not drive the car bad!
If you look at these pic closely you can clearly see the toe out:
(http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47b9d905b3127ccec7e4b7237d4000000040O00AYuWThk4cN2IPbz4e/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/)
(http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47b9d905b3127ccec7e536549c9300000040O00AYuWThk4cN2IPbz4e/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/)
AGGGGHHH!!! :mysmilie_174:
OK... I need to shorten the tie rod... -but not too too much and the female buckle is threading the whole way onto the tie rod, look at this pic again:
(http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47b9d905b3127ccec7e414223d8800000040O00AYuWThk4cN2IPbz4e/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/)
now I could remove the tie rod itself and have it threaded deeper and shortened... I'm thinking that is a pain considering I don't really have the tools to do that.
Thought now is shorten the female buckle a bit and the male end of the heim a bit for some adjustment to bring the toe back in a bit... I don't need that much adjustment and before I run off and have the tie rods machined I'm going this route. I'm thinking about a 1/2 inch off each will do the trick.
left the car in parts for tonight and will go trim down the rod ends tomorrow then post results.
People that wanna still run the stock pick-up points
You could drill out the factory pick-up point to 14mm ID and run these no problem... I don't think you would need to trim the buckle or really do anything but the drilling... I gave the tapered bolts that came with the kit to Miro to take to VIR this weekend as back-ups just in case -but when he is back I'll test fit them, this might be a bolt on affair -but we'll see.
OK I'm beat hope this helps some people out.
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(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2511/3977295865_b33ca25dff.jpg)
How much angle do you think the K-sport will give? Seems simple with just having to drill out to 14mm and bolt on. By the way I think we met at one of the club loose night moves. I was the guy talking to you about my FC with the VG30 swap. Well thats changing to a 4.3L V6 now haha..Good luck with the swap..
Yeah I remember meeting you! get that thing together and come slide!
With just the rod ends you should see a few degrees, nothing major -but any little bit really helps with the FC -stock angle is SHIT and makes it really easy to spin. The Knuckles Scott makes are DOPE... I have such insane angle for an FC:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3508/3932893099_ffab5769b6_b.jpg)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2514/3933675616_e1093bd5ec_b.jpg)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2667/3932897337_42244a8be6_b.jpg)
OK made some progress... oil cooler and all that rotary garbage is out. It's tough because I do not have much time during the week -but I'm trying to get an hour or 2 in a night.
I found tons of little surface rust and areas literally stripped of paint due to leaking fluids... I'm thinking to blast the engine bay and paint it.
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3536/3990967827_8f90821593.jpg)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2635/3991723906_bd4bbe7df6.jpg)
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Rotary puke damage:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3517/4000594663_00aa950718.jpg)
Getting there! cleaned up pretty good! I sold the wheels Friday so I was unable to push the car outside to give it a good wash and degrease. My new wheels will be here Monday so I'll throw them on and go from there. I don't really wanna pay someone to paint the engine bay... I'm going to look into alteratives.
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3464/4001360278_597427e909_b.jpg)
New wheels:
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2494/4006778388_7e4303267f.jpg)
They will get powder coated something sick... RPF1 17x8 and 17x10
here is a pic with 315/35/17 drag radials in the rear... they are MASSIVE!!! I'll run these on the street.
could be spaced out a bit.
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3521/4006777934_2b8dfec0f9.jpg)
I'll get some better pics up tonight
here is how she sits now:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3464/4001360278_597427e909_b.jpg)
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here are the final specs on the trans... tire will prob be a bit shorter than 26"
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2707/4052641743_02c6fb83b8_o.jpg)
Trans came in today:
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2799/4117735526_a493f13754.jpg)
here it is after an hour of cleaning and some engine enamel:
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2553/4118019397_b929cb3714.jpg)
only what... 4 months till I get to use it :(
Here are a few more pics:
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2535/4118788156_5cb1846d1b.jpg)
one for scale:
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2565/4118019159_cda71f9bda.jpg)
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Read the instructions again :-)
The T56 does not have a bearing retainer snout, so there is nowhere to mount the bearing. The piston inside the bearing buts up against the bearing retainer and the body of the bearing is what moves. Once you see it, it will be very clear how it can't work with a T56.
Andrew
:runaway:
Man I feel like such a noob with all this fancy transmission shit... every time I think I got it figured out something changes.
Anyway... stich welded the engine bay this morning.
Welds came out pretty good considering I have not really welded much in YEARS.
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2564/4163410492_dbd3868736.jpg)
Sorry this one came out blurry:
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2620/4162649923_25a1a8af95.jpg)
^^^ no worries FYI Andrew has great history in the trans biz and helped me out a great deal when deciding to go this route. It seems that that these trans must have come from Tex with a bearing retainer and the hot ticket was for guys to switch them out -ALL used ones I have seen do not come with it. QMI was a sister company with Tex and they even assumed it had a bearing retainer
soooooo anyway.
I went back over to the shop in the afternoon today and did some crap that I thought was going to be a pain... the subframe bushings.
Air motherfucking hammer to the rescue. I had BOTH out in about 15min.
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2607/4163930215_919be7a9f8.jpg)
Here is the MMR bushings -fit right in no issues.
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2595/4164688870_d38ab8dfeb.jpg)
Here's a pic of the whole subframe -my friend Nick at Elite JDM in philly hooked me up. This sub is in awesome condition! I welded up all the seams and am going to re enforce the mount for the diff as I will be going solid.
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2492/4163930979_282e115e1d_b.jpg)
Here's some better shots of the stitching... I ground down a few high spots -and I did burn through the body in 2 spots that I'm going to have to go back and repair :runaway: I have plenty of 16g sheet metal sitting around.
-shit, never mind they are blurry again...
also snapped a few shots of the trans to send to quartermaster if there is an issue... in fact I may just reach out to the tech I spoke to tomorrow.
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2766/4162649529_b8cfda2c55.jpg)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2626/4164689638_be1c7aa753.jpg)
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Soooo I paid for my engine in full in June 09.... after nearly six months of being dicked around I picked it up today!!!!!
LS2 1900 miles.... bonertown! :naughty:
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2616/4192877817_c4e3364c98.jpg)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2532/4193637662_a5073a0cc1.jpg)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2536/4192877525_b5c3a4b5b7.jpg)
Also got a Grantelli 90mm MAF and some other goodies... getting there!
got some good work done today... I was working on the cage but ran outta gas for the welder. The blasting and painting continues! Like I said before -expect to see this color wherever I can use it.
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2499/4237453335_f1913aba26.jpg)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2698/4238227882_e9240e8630.jpg)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2711/4237453835_47ac1ca98a.jpg)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2743/4237451797_b4bcd96a1d.jpg)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2500/4237452319_4727ef85be.jpg)
The arm is dry and the spindle is not:
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2684/4238230022_f82b355f79_b.jpg)
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Boredom and lack of funds has me cleaning all the time. Here is the knuckles ect back on the car -I'm going to tear it apart and do the front LCA as well -this looks too nice not too.
I also did the camber mod on the coilovers -basically you slot the upper part where the bolt is so the bolt rests on the body of the shock -you get about 2.5* more neg camber doing this. I'm going to weld some washers on each side to prevent any movement.
Fresh and clean!
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4045/4251133064_d2598593d6.jpg)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4057/4251132856_6f0b516efb.jpg)
I also tore into the wiring harness lastnight... after playing around a bit and reading my confidence is high and I think it just going to take a bit of time -but will come out nice.
Wiring fun:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4043/4255584366_74863e8aba.jpg)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2739/4255584536_caece53665.jpg)
crap removed so far:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4050/4254821347_204c694268.jpg)
going to bed soon... tired and I don't wanna cut any wrong wires :ohnoes:
It's all in the detail so they say... I'm going to label every connection -heat shrink nearly every wire -should come out nice. I'm in Lancaster PA with my Mom now and don't have the right tools to de-pin the connectors to get the heat shrink on -I'll do it tomorrow at the shop.
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4031/4257344576_573808fbca_b.jpg)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2545/4256584583_db4eb29465.jpg)
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i like the color hahahaha
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Ordering up some goodies...
3qt accusump
manual valve
mounting brackets
check valve
Canton remote oil filter
Canton oil cooler thermostat (bypasses cooler until 215*)
and all the fittings/line...
I'm doing the entire fuel/oil system with nylon braided hose instead of stainless braided -not really into bling and the nylon is easy to work with -love this stuff!
Removed the fuel tank from the car today did some surface rust repair and I'll be replacing the rear subframe with the worked over one (toe/camber links DTSS elim spherical bearings, fresh paint) damn those rear tow hooks had a good 1/8" of rust scale on them -hit them with a wire wheel and then some dupli color rustfix -this stuff is great!
(http://www.duplicolor.com/gallery/gallery_images/can_rustfix.jpg)
This stuff neutralizes rust and then dries into a black primer -sandable and very easy to work with -only downside is it takes quite some time to dry and smells pretty damn bad/toxic oh yeah and if you use it within 50 yards of a spark or flame your going to die in a fire... on the can it says something like "prone to cause flash fires" :eek3:
After poking around a bit underneath the rear I'm considering solid mounting the diff to the cage... I'll play with this a bit later down the road.
Got the slip yoke for the trans coming and my brakes -just going with SS line and stock calipers, x-drill rotors
(http://[url=http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4051/4309691493_51099010ae.jpg]http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4051/4309691493_51099010ae.jpg[/url])
some more goodies:
engine is going in soon!
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4032/4353784353_38c5dac077.jpg)
Flex-a-lite 2500cfm 16.5" fan
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2780/4353784631_aff1619541.jpg)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2789/4353784953_00bcfc80ed.jpg)
Once the engine is in place I'll do all the shrouds ect... both the fan and rad are very nice!
Also got a bunch of ARP fasteners.... FW,WP, Balancer and some other stuff...
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Prepping for the engine fit -bellhousing was supposed to be here Monday -I'm going to pick it up and the UPS hub (hassle) today.
Clutch, FW look great -installed the F-bod pan, Improved racing baffle and got a new oil pickup tube -just need the damn bellhousing.
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2778/4384924428_571ddbb03e_b.jpg)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4017/4384924770_9619163f7b.jpg)
all three should be together tonight!
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4003/4384925068_3dff4cfc03.jpg)
Booooya!
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2765/4388287319_6e429149d0.jpg)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2795/4388288649_2395eab7e8.jpg)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4021/4388288983_eb83dbd19a.jpg)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4023/4388287631_52986965f8_b.jpg)
(http://hphotos-snc3.fbcdn.net/hs514.snc3/26998_1134463901684_1829922146_254417_5612717_n.jpg)
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Got two of these:
(http://howeracing.com/images/PRODUCT/medium/H3001.png)
Howe Dual Mufflers are made for applications where a 2 into one is either not allowed of will not fit. The 3-1/2" Louvered Muffler is the easiest to fit in your system and is also the lightest. Its performance is much the same as straight 3-1/2" pipe. The louvered core is wrapped with a fiberglass mat to help deaden sound. All dual mufflers comewith a 3-1/2" tail pipe.
I went for the 30" length -going to fit them like the N1-there will be an X-pipe.
Also got these for some heat barrier -I'll be putting them right by the trans:
(http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/the-11630_w.jpg)
I have just about everything now -just need time to put it together.
Pulled the engine and did all the final prep:
Stripped -primed and painted engine bay.
Installed Melling High volume oil pump
sender for oil pressure and oil/water temp gauges
torqued FW and clutch assembly
set up/shimmed TOB
Engine will be put in for good this week... should be running very soon.
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2776/4473462716_e2680d150c.jpg)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2789/4473463060_c6e87d5e21_b.jpg)
I chose to keep above the crease on the firewall factory paint... came out nice!
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4052/4472686049_dea1ca65fe_b.jpg)
Fabbed up the rad support:
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2744/4490270145_31171d7476.jpg)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4021/4490267883_2263910562.jpg)
Trans mount: (my welds are getting pretty fucking good)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2726/4490268375_699be08db4.jpg)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4061/4490268855_b8fd3fd1f6.jpg)
And the moch-up money shot -this is the general idea of the set-up -rad is going to be lower though.
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2714/4490269295_cac8c7fd8c.jpg)
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2763/4490912128_bd849a0770.jpg)
^^^ ducting will get done later down the road... like I said that was simpl a moch up to make sure there was enough room.
Relocated the fuel pump -it sits about 1/2" lower than the sump now -came out pretty nice. All the fuel lines are run -10 from the sump to the filter then -8 to the rails and regulator -then a -6 from the reg to the stock hardline for a return.
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4071/4529636098_c6f4d8bcdc_b.jpg)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4051/4529002801_0545405922_b.jpg)
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(http://projectautox.com/drift_build/284_0425/IMGP1339.JPG)
here is a how to list:
www.delcity.net (http://www.delcity.net)
Qty Item Price Item Total
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
100 152105 Ring Terminal, 10 Stud, 16-14 Ga (100 MIN$0.02780
100 152145 Ring Terminal, 1/4" Stud, 16-14 Ga (10$0.04390
100 152565 Ring Terminal, 5/16" Stud, 16-14 Ga (1$0.04390 $
100 192005 Female Push-on Terminal, .250", 16-14 $0.03640
200 221005 Butt Connector, 22-18 Ga (100 MIN) $0.04620
200 222005 Butt Connector, 16-14 Ga (100 MIN) $0.04620 $
500 3714505 Black Cross-Link Wire, 14 Ga (500 ft. MIN$0.12750
500 3718505 Black Cross-Link Wire, 18 Ga (500 ft. MIN$0.06990
25 5210205 Black Battery Cable Coil, 1/0 (25 ft. MIN$2.56670
5 70004 10 Stud Terminal Block (1 MIN) $6.00
8 73020 SPST On-Off Toggle Switch (1 MIN) $2.11
1 73495 (ON)-OFF Moisture-proof Push-button Start$6.22 $
12 73572 Socket with "ISO" Relay, (1 MIN) $4.26 $
4 73820 ATC™/ATO™ 6-way Fuse Block, ($5.50
2 73920 Two-pin Thermal Flasher, 12V (1 MIN) $1.58
2 80500 6-way, Buss Bar w/Cover, 100A DC (1 MIN) $22
5 906545 1/4" Copper Lug, 1/0 Ga (1 MIN) $0.4
10 906645 5/16" Copper Lug, 1/0 Ga (1 MIN) $0.4
10 907445 3/8" Heavy-Duty Copper Lug, 1/0 Ga (1 $1
1000 9623 Cable Ties, UV Black, 4" (1000 MIN) $0.01186
1000 9627 Cable Ties, UV Black, 6" (1000 MIN) $0.01698
2 98061505 4 ft. Black Dual Wall Shrink Tubing, 1/8&$2.11
1 98062505 4 ft. Black Dual Wall Shrink Tubing, 1/4&$2.58
1 98063505 4 ft. Black Dual Wall Shrink Tubing, 1/2&$3.58 $
1 98064505 4 ft. Black Dual Wall Shrink Tubing, 3/4&$5.22
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^^^ I built my version of that over the weekend -came out pretty sweet -mine is going to mount on the firewall by the passengers feet -New rotors and pads all around, brakes and slave are bled. Ran outta welding gas Sat morning and there was no where open to get more so I did a bunch of small things to help me get a head start on the wiring. Tonight I'll be finishing the trans mount -I made mine so the exhaust goes UNDER it -I'll put up some pics tonight.
I'm trying to make an event in two weeks... this week will be detrimental -I NEED to have it running next weekend so I can shake it down a bit and hit the dyno... major projects left -wiring, exhaust and cooling -I pretty much have everything planned out -just a race against time and I'm not rushing anything -I'm expecting some sleep deprivation this week -I might even take a day or two off work.
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So I fabbed up this little guy today -originally I was going to do a straight bar across kinda like Hinson, Grannies ect... just seemed that the exhaust would be such a PITA that I would rather spend the time on the mount and run a practically straight exhaust. I used some 1/4" thick flat stock and angle with some hefty rectangle bar I had laying around. The mount bolts though the trans tunnel and I made "sandwich plates" out of 10 gauge mild steel on the interior. I still need to weld in the plates -but everything is set.
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4042/4617550236_39858518ba_b.jpg)
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Super progress the past few days...
Trans is in place -moved on to the rad and intake tonight:
This hole support is a bolt in affair now -six bolts and the rad and support come out together.
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4051/4623414684_5673308dbb.jpg)
Started eyeballing the intake:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3196/4622810993_a59cee2303.jpg)
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Build is looking great, but I just don't see the radiator being very effective in it's current position. It doesn't even look like ducting will help. Maybe I'm missing something, have others had success mounting the rad in that position?
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Build is looking great, but I just don't see the radiator being very effective in it's current position. It doesn't even look like ducting will help. Maybe I'm missing something, have others had success mounting the rad in that position?
I have seen this rad set-up done plenty of times on other cars usually turbo cars in a "V mount" I'm just going to use ducting for the top -not an intercoooler -honestly I'm kinda regretting doing this set up at the moment because it is going to take another few days to button it up and I'm prob going to miss next weekends event.
(http://ll.speedhunters.com/u/f/eagames/NFS/speedhunters.com/Images/Rod09/Shops/Twins%20Turbo%2009/IMG_6179.jpg)
(http://www.drifting.com/forums/attachments/tech-discussion-forum/8372d1109867612-v-mount-intercoolers-180-v-1.jpg)
(http://image.automotive.com/f/images/14914070+soriginal/turp_0902_24_z+super_lap_battle+v_mount_intercooler_radiator.jpg)
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That's what had me confused, It looks like an incomplete v-mount with nothing to force air down through the radiator. And the intake/filter is sitting right where your duct would be.
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That's what had me confused, It looks like an incomplete v-mount with nothing to force air down through the radiator. And the intake/filter is sitting right where your duct would be.
Yeah it is no where near done -I did paint everything and get it ready for install... shrouding/ducts in the near future.
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4043/4626025594_653c38b12b.jpg)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4061/4625420463_d4efa3a1f0.jpg)
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I cannot wait to hear you bang gears in this thing :)
Finish it up already!
(you will have in car video won't you?)
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I cannot wait to hear you bang gears in this thing :)
Finish it up already!
(you will have in car video won't you?)
Gopro HD is on my wishlist.
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Just picked up my driveshaft :)
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I am a little worried about cooling issues, but time will tell.
Andrew
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^^^ Cooling will be fine... I have a few tricks up my sleeve.
DS fits like a glove! 8)
did a test fit of the dash - I need to get a different shifter lever:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3415/4627590665_fa83de5cb9_b.jpg)
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LOL, semi-truck shifters for the win man! ;)
You crazy drifters and your weird ass radiators...
Out of curiosity, why did you do it that way? A "normal" setup would fit just fine... :)
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LOL, semi-truck shifters for the win man! ;)
You crazy drifters and your weird ass radiators...
Out of curiosity, why did you do it that way? A "normal" setup would fit just fine... :)
seemed like a good idea at the time... -wanted the intake to go over it. If I have cooling issues I have no problem hacking up the front bumper.
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FWIW, I think it can be made to work. :)
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FWIW, I think it can be made to work. :)
:D
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I had the same fan you have on my old radiator. It worked sort of OK with easy driving. When the temp would creep up with harder driving that fan couldn't keep up. I would end up shutting down the engine and let it cool with the fan on.
My junkyard 95 Taurus 2 speed fan has no problem now. Works like a charm and no concerns any longer. I even got stuck in a traffic jam and it maintained 195 degrees. (That's what the high speed temp sensor is set at) They really suck! (air)
I paid $45 for the Taurus fan from the used auto parts reseller (junk yard you can't go into). If you have access to a "pick apart" yard you could probably get it for $20.
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I had the same fan you have on my old radiator. It worked sort of OK with easy driving. When the temp would creep up with harder driving that fan couldn't keep up. I would end up shutting down the engine and let it cool with the fan on.
My junkyard 95 Taurus 2 speed fan has no problem now. Works like a charm and no concerns any longer. I even got stuck in a traffic jam and it maintained 195 degrees. (That's what the high speed temp sensor is set at) They really suck! (air)
I paid $45 for the Taurus fan from the used auto parts reseller (junk yard you can't go into). If you have access to a "pick apart" yard you could probably get it for $20.
I have me eye on a 4,000 cfm fan that I'm going to get if this one is not up to the task... I pretty much have enough room to run anything I want.
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guess i'm sticking with my taurus fan in the town and country shroud. . TheMike finney get up. I was gonna get a spal HO. Their site it say it doesn't last as long as their other fans because the motor isn't sealed and is exposed to the elements
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So here is the mock up for the ducting:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4022/4632504191_45f045e419.jpg)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4065/4632504631_9595626ddc.jpg)
I also ditched the fuel pump and filter set up I had for what I think is a better fit:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4050/4633101354_ac87c47771.jpg)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4054/4632505585_856c9d8ae7.jpg)
The main board is pretty much done -just need to do the fan wiring:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4016/4633099490_9c41c4ed13_b.jpg)
Thinking about mounting it here:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4072/4633099988_d8f61aafa6.jpg)
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Why do you have 3 fan relays?
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Why do you have 3 fan relays?
Just in case I add more fans later -If I have cooling issues I'm going to switch to a dual fan set-up.
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Buttoned up the cooling today -trans fluid is in, intake is semi-complete (enough to start it) Fuel system is all set, suspension is torqued down, DS installed. I might actually drive this thing soon. Just started the final install if the wiring.
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4014/4651029467_db000078b7_b.jpg)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4071/4651030027_e3588cbe09.jpg)
Saw this at the track sat:
LS7 350z -G-force 5 speed -one of the cleanest builds I have ever seen. He put 523 to the rear wheels. It has a ARE dry sump system that made me cream my pants.
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4036/4651647330_b07fa02447.jpg)
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Car is looking good. That 350Z is beautiful!
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So here is the mock up for the ducting:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4022/4632504191_45f045e419.jpg)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4065/4632504631_9595626ddc.jpg)
I kinda kike the cardboard... I think that and a hot glue gun, and you'll be good to go.
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Tracy is crazy. You'll also need duct tape.
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Tracy is crazy. You'll also need duct tape.
:D
hacked up the front bumper this morning -wiring is just about done.
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Here is a shot of the rear as of now... I'm building a new body harness from scratch -everything is shrink wrapped and awesome -used some wirecare wire sheath -came out looking really clean.
brake lights, running lights, and hazards are wired up as well as fuel pump. Moved the location of my main board and secured the battery. Still not done and will be cleaning up a little more and sheathing more wire, I'm also going to make a cover for the main board. The interior will go back in...
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4014/4657048181_a4b9b9f6c3.jpg)
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4067/4657669854_539079cf2a.jpg)
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i had no clue that 350z was ls7 powered, damn that makes me like it more.
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i had no clue that 350z was ls7 powered, damn that makes me like it more.
Yeah that thing is retarded -like $100,000 build retarded.
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(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4064/4653341166_d6f9118d0d.jpg)
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started?
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started?
nope... I could if I really wanted to -but there is so much other shit that needs done before it's "drivable"
We got kicked out of our shop and need to pack and move this weekend so everything is pretty much on hold ATM... sucks.
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Why'd you get kicked out?
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Why'd you get kicked out?
Landlord thought we were too "high impact" -we are always doing metal work, ect and there are store fronts right next to us. We found a bigger place that is already a shop, we start moving Friday. Worst timing ever -If I did not have to move I would be driving it by the end of the weekend >:( now I have to dedicate all weekend to the move.
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So close... Definitely curious how that trans works out.
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So close... Definitely curious how that trans works out.
so close.... I just need some time to button everything up.
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did you get your plug situation figured out?
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This build is awesome man, great work. Can you tell me where I can get some fender flares like those?
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Almost there... building a chassis harness wire by wire kinda sucks -and takes time.
I'm about 20 wires and a few nuts and bolts from having it ready to start.
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Just a thought.... Couldnt you use ganged fuse panels and delete some of those un-needed wires?
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Just a thought.... Couldnt you use ganged fuse panels and delete some of those un-needed wires?
I like how it is now... I'll clean it up a bit later once it is running.
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thats what she said. . .
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It runs... fired up first crank. I'm headed tot the shop in a few to make it drivable.
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good man!! so happy for you we have a chance to do an sns north east :)
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good man!! so happy for you we have a chance to do an sns north east :)
Need more info on this. I think SNS North East would be like all 5 of us up here.
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lol there is more then 5 of us hell i have 5 here in my area now it seems :)
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I know you keep saying that but I just have to see it to believe it. I know of 1 guy in NH, dont know if his car is even still together, he was tryign to sell the shell so I would assume its appart.
1 guy in Mass whos building a crazy LS2 FD but its been in build status for about a year now, so I dont know when he'll be able to get her on the road.
And I met a guy at a local car meet with a chevy 350 in his FC with homemade mounts off the frame rails. He said his car has been swapped for over 10 years, and long before they were making kits for them. He had remotely heard of grannys, and never heard of hinson or this board.
I bought my swap parts from a guy who was parting out his swapped Turbo 2 and I know theres a guy on here from Mass who used to have a nice swappedd FD that he sold, so I know there are others around who have done it.
Just pretty slim pickings though when it comes to currently running swaps in my area.
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well right up the road from me really up the road i have jeff aka all-wheeldrive racer not sure what his new name is on here but the yellow fd with the homemade turbo kit. then i have mike irishdriftking about 30 mins away from me with his lm4 fc now there is another fd in saylorsburg around me i think his name is Josh and i have a friend Aaron in allentown with a SBC fc that is also about 30 mins away from me. jamie overkill-lt1 is about 1.5 hours from me, andrew r is about 45 mins from me and i know in nj i think busa is his name he has one so in total within a 2 hour drive radius i would say i have about 15 or so v8 rx7s tell Mass to step the game up and get some v8 rx7s out there ;)
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well right up the road from me really up the road i have jeff aka all-wheeldrive racer not sure what his new name is on here but the yellow fd with the homemade turbo kit. then i have mike irishdriftking about 30 mins away from me with his lm4 fc now there is another fd in saylorsburg around me i think his name is Josh and i have a friend Aaron in allentown with a SBC fc that is also about 30 mins away from me. jamie overkill-lt1 is about 1.5 hours from me, andrew r is about 45 mins from me and i know in nj i think busa is his name he has one so in total within a 2 hour drive radius i would say i have about 15 or so v8 rx7s tell Mass to step the game up and get some v8 rx7s out there ;)
lets do this soon or maybe early fall. iam up for it
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OK fired it up yesterday -removed VATS and all the other codes it threw right away.
Only a few small issues and I'll be good to go...
Cooling: I'm going to be burbing the system forever... I'm thinking to switch the lines around so the output from the waterpump goes to the lower parts of the rad -after a few heat cycles the top of the rad was hot and the lower part was cool -the is no biggie -just a PITA.
PS line: I had a local company that does truck lines ect crimp together an FD and GM line *the FD 12mm banjo works on FC* but the crimp started leaking -now my engine is covered in PS fluid -awesome. No biggie though -going to order Pez lines.
Codes: I'm getting the Generator L code and some MAF code -no biggie it runs fine.
Tune: I'm going to need to dyno it... only getting a 459mv signal from the O2 at idle -should be more like 750mv or so.
So all in all it was successful -just a few small things to address. I'm making a seat bracket today and finishing headlamps ect so when I get the PS line I'll be good to go. Sad thing is I'm going to be going to Russia next Friday -so just when I get it all together -I'm going to have to wait another week to drive it lol.
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O2s fluxuate quite a bit, even at idle. Should constantly bounce between .1 and .9v.
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Where do you do drift events? My brother and I would like to do one. We heard about one at Monticello. Any chance at them doing another there?
I'd also be up for a SNS NE event if its not too far away.
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i started a thread about doing some auto cross here in pa i know you are in nj also come on down :)
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Where do you do drift events? My brother and I would like to do one. We heard about one at Monticello. Any chance at them doing another there?
I'd also be up for a SNS NE event if its not too far away.
There is E-Town on Aug 28th -We are throwing another event at Monticello Oct. 8th
Oh yeah folks... runs -I have driven it around a bit!
LS2 FC fire up (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x5AsAon36Z8#)
(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs153.ash2/40982_1243277141947_1829922146_455243_1512067_n.jpg)
new headlights:
(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs157.ash2/41184_1243277341952_1829922146_455244_7985448_n.jpg)
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look at that gay shifter..lol congrats man now hurry up and finish it so we can go for a spin!
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new headlights:
(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs157.ash2/41184_1243277341952_1829922146_455244_7985448_n.jpg)
What did you use to make those headlights?
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new headlights:
(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs157.ash2/41184_1243277341952_1829922146_455244_7985448_n.jpg)
What did you use to make those headlights?
A set of Hella driving lights then I made brackets -I'll get better pics when I do the final install.
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Can you post up what lights you used? How is the light output? I have a friend that was going to do this but couldn't find a decent light to use.
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That's a creative lighting set up.
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Can you post up what lights you used? How is the light output? I have a friend that was going to do this but couldn't find a decent light to use.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLA-008284811/ (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLA-008284811/)
(http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/hla-008284811_w.jpg)
They are 55w each -they are plenty bright for what I'm doing... might upgrade to an HID setup later.
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so are those lights low beam only?
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so are those lights low beam only?
Yeah I have no high beams -but they are much brighter than stock low beams... remember this is a track car -not a street car.
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still you are going to drive it around :)
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Buttoned up the front today... installed tow straps, front lip -just need to put the headlight covers back on.
(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs361.snc4/44387_1245025345651_1829922146_459292_3283579_n.jpg)
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in for parts list for dog box and pricing. also vid/ drivability for street ?
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in for parts list for dog box and pricing. also vid/ drivability for street ?
The dog bog is a Tex racing T-101 -they are not made anymore -G-Force bought out Tex Racing some years back -you can get a used one foe about $1500 from a ARCA or sircle track team -they are all over the place www.racingjunk.com (http://www.racingjunk.com) and ebay are a good place to start.
You then need a bellhousing, TOB, Bearing retainer and whatever clutch/fw combo you want (stock type work fine)
Street? Deff not for a car you daily... it is LOUD, CLUNKY and not really designed for start and stop -depending on the gears you have in it starting from a stop may be a pain... I have tall gears and have to ride the clutch when pulling out. -So CAN you drive it on the street? yes... just takes some practice. I would never put it in a DD
Expect to spend about 3g if you rebuild the trans -about $2200 pr so without a rebuild
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Finally track ready:
(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs385.snc4/44828_1248539793510_1829922146_466887_789936_n.jpg)
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it looks so slow :)
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Looks nice! Except for the retarded pass. headlight cover.
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Your speed holes aren't straight. ;)
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Your speed holes aren't straight. ;)
I know... lol
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Damn drifters...
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I Like but its not low enough to be sporting that much camber in the front. I actually like stupid camber on cars but your rears are so straights and tucked that it makes the fronts looks kinda broke. Over all its a sweet build. how does that dog box shift
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What are the wheel/tire specs your running with the RPF1 set-up?
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Where do you do drift events? My brother and I would like to do one. We heard about one at Monticello. Any chance at them doing another there?
I'd also be up for a SNS NE event if its not too far away.
There is E-Town on Aug 28th -We are throwing another event at Monticello Oct. 8th
Oh yeah folks... runs -I have driven it around a bit!
Congrats on getting it running! Any more info on the October drift event? Cost? Registration? Etc? That would be a good SNS NE event!
Autocross can be fun, but it can be miserable as well. I'd rather not drive 2-3 hours to stand on the tarmac for another 2-3 hours to get 4 minutes of seat time.
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What are the wheel/tire specs your running with the RPF1 set-up?
In the pics they are 17x8 +35 and 17x10 +17 (something like that) with a 50mm spacer in the front and a 25 in the rear -front are Falken RT-615 225/40-17 rear are Kumo 285/40/17
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how does that dog box shift
I shifted it clutchless for the first time lastnight and I was all over the place -the roads were a little wet and it violently kicked out on the 1-2 shift... once you get over 30mph the whine from the trans is pretty unbearable -earplugs are going to be required for any prolonged or fast driving.
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It looks nasty nasty! :)
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Are you going to keep the drift event a secret?
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Are you going to keep the drift event a secret?
What Monticello? It's on for Oct 8th -Matt and Tim will be there -details will be announced soon.
My engine is toasted so I will not be driving.
(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs436.snc4/47917_1250524843135_1829922146_471088_6018702_n.jpg)
(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs205.ash2/46843_1250524883136_1829922146_471089_2712724_n.jpg)
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Wow, was this just from a lot of high rpm use, or...?
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Wow, was this just from a lot of high rpm use, or...?
Nah -I bead blasted the oil pan -looks like some material was left in the pan after 20+ washes -the heat brought it out and tore up the bearings. After a few heat cycles I lost oil pressure. I removed the pan to inspect and it was covered in silver "terminator" type sludge and the rods had play in them so I removed the caps to find the bearings shot. I'm having the engine completely tore down and doing a mild build. Moral of the story is NEVER bead blast your oil pan... -expensive lesson.
I will be tearing the car down completely and re working a few things I was not happy with during the build.
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damn....
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ugh. Sorry to hear that man. Well atleast you get to go back and redo a few things.
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ugh. Sorry to hear that man. Well atleast you get to go back and redo a few things.
I basically missed this season anyway... there is only 2 events left that I would be interested in running -I'll come out of the gates running strong next season... too many things got in the way this year... moving the shop -bought a new house -I was out of the country for a while -just no time to finish it properly or drive it...
I did catch this early though -there was no rod knock no indications other than low oil pressure -so I'm hoping the damage is minimal.
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Sucks that it happened, but as you noted, at least it wasn't catastrophic.
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Sucks that it happened, but as you noted, at least it wasn't catastrophic.
I'll come out strong in the spring.... took me a few days and a gallon of whiskey to get over the failure -but I'm almost there... on a side note I moved my shop home -cleaned out the garage and will have everything I need to get this done - setup a clean room already. I'm bringing the car here this week and will begin the rebirth... car will come out in the spring flawless.
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That sucks about your engine. I have friends that have lost engines that way as well. One media blasted his intake manifold. Another had a new Subaru EJ25 with Pauters and CP's. That one lasted 5 minutes and ruined the crank, bores, pistons, and a rod.
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Engine is stripped and going to the builder tomorrow -so we'll see how bad it really is.
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ouch sorry dude! hope it comes back soon so you can get it all back together
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ehhh never good but think i can come back BIGGER AND STRONGER!!!!!!!!
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I'm prepared to do a full build if required -like I said before -I think I might get away with just a good cleaning and all new bearings.
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sweet build, sorry to hear about your engine trouble but at least you caught it soon and taught us all a lesson! I'll remember that shit the next time I start bead blasting engine parts.
GL
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Hope it works out as cheap as possible for you...
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I am sorry to hear about your engine.
How do you like the transmission?
Andrew
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I am sorry to hear about your engine.
How do you like the transmission?
Andrew
Hard to really tell -but I liked it from what little driving I did with it.
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Well quit building tables and get back to work on the car!
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Well quit building tables and get back to work on the car!
Hahaha... well the garage is getting full so I had to thin out my office area -one thing led to another and I did a bunch of shit in the office to make room/improve -today is car day!
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So while the engine is out I'm doing work on the chassis -never got to the cage last winter -I started -but just never had the time.
For sound deadening I did my whole interior in about 30min -no dry ice...
Air Chisel on a low setting -It's about 40* outside -everything came right out.
(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs760.ash1/165183_1374103172516_1829922146_679694_5314443_n.jpg)
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did/can you weigh all that stuff? ive been meaning to do it, but im kinda on the edge of 'is it worth the trouble'
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did/can you weigh all that stuff? ive been meaning to do it, but im kinda on the edge of 'is it worth the trouble'
I did not weight it -but I would say at least a good 30lbs or so came out.... it's a messy fucking job that's for sure. A bunch of it left behind residue so I basically wire wheeled the entire interior -after the cage goes in I'm going to get Metal Magnet paint and do a gloss black coating. Sadly I found a few areas that will need rust repair.
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did/can you weigh all that stuff? ive been meaning to do it, but im kinda on the edge of 'is it worth the trouble'
I took out 18lbs of sound deadener. I didn't do my firewall.
I stripped the backing off the carpet and that was 8lbs.
When we did my harness we took 24lbs of wires out.
Switching from stock leathers to Corbeau reclinables saved 8lbs a seats with rails.
Not to thread jack. Haha
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it's a messy fucking job that's for sure. A bunch of it left behind residue so I basically wire wheeled the entire interior
thats where the dry ice really helps. much less residue gets left behind.
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it's a messy fucking job that's for sure. A bunch of it left behind residue so I basically wire wheeled the entire interior
thats where the dry ice really helps. much less residue gets left behind.
All in all it was not too bad -I'd rather spend the time removing the residue then driving somewhere to buy dry ice... if it was the summer I prob would have got it though.
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1 step forward 2 steps back ::)
I hated the way the engine bay came out so I tore it all apart again -should be easier and cleaner this time around
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5043/5333079790_594cc31b8e_b.jpg)
I'm going to paint it in the Metal Magnet Chassis saver stuff -the rattle can just came out poorly even with all the prep I did. If I like that paint I'm going to
do the cage and interior with it as well.
Considering this guy:
http://www.swracecars.com/store/Dashboard-Kit-with-Tach-and-4-Gauge-Panel-OSCARItem_189=95-110-4.aspx (http://www.swracecars.com/store/Dashboard-Kit-with-Tach-and-4-Gauge-Panel-OSCARItem_189=95-110-4.aspx)
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Ordered a rotating assembly today.
Found a place that does armored cars -they dismantle new engines and replace everything with forged components.
Got the whole assembly (rods, bearings, pistons, crank) for $320 shipped
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hmm that sounds interesting.
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(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/hs245.snc6/179304_1385971789224_1829922146_698970_4320941_n.jpg)
(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs749.ash1/164081_1385971949228_1829922146_698971_7630384_n.jpg)
Started cleaning the front LCA and one thing led to another...
(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/hs046.snc6/167613_1385972829250_1829922146_698976_325936_n.jpg)
(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/hs045.snc6/167523_1385973109257_1829922146_698978_509899_n.jpg)
Front subframe done with Chassis Saver -basically POR-15
(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs781.ash1/167179_1385973309262_1829922146_698979_4516687_n.jpg)
Engine bay test with chassis saver... I like it -I'm going to do the whole bay.
(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/hs073.snc6/168322_1385972469241_1829922146_698974_8214360_n.jpg)
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Nice seats. Fancy bunny sticker.
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doesnt that stuff add a bit of wieght? whats the point of it? (por15 noob)
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doesnt that stuff add a bit of wieght? whats the point of it? (por15 noob)
not much weight at all... it's like a very -very thin rubberized coating that stops rust. I can bang it with a hammer and it does not chip or scratch. It does leave a bit
of a texture and does not dry as smooth as I would like -but nothing is going to get it off except for a wire wheel or sandblasting... brake fluid wipes right off and leaves no trace.
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(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/hs245.snc6/179304_1385971789224_1829922146_698970_4320941_n.jpg)
No Lasers, Machine Guns, or Oil Slicks?
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(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/hs245.snc6/179304_1385971789224_1829922146_698970_4320941_n.jpg)
No Lasers, Machine Guns, or Oil Slicks?
Only smoke screen -but that's activated with my foot.
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i realize you got a good deal on the rotating assembly, but why not just stick some good pistons on stock rods? I would think you are going to be beating the shit out of it, no?
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i realize you got a good deal on the rotating assembly, but why not just stick some good pistons on stock rods? I would think you are going to be beating the shit out of it, no?
I needed a crank and rods... I simply don't have the budget right now to go forged. I'm not throwing boost or juice at it so it should be fine -the only real beating it is going to take is high rpm -so I'm doing rod bolts and valve springs.
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Ic, was just curious
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smoke screen activated with your right foot..... :cheers:
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PEZ Engine mount coated in chassis saver... I'm in love with that stuff.
(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/hs018.snc6/166890_1387306222584_1829922146_700873_3289057_n.jpg)
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My used pistons, rods, crank and bearings just showed up.
The guy builds armored trucks and they swap everything out right away to go forged... everything looks new only miles are from the dealer to the shop.
If anyone is interested he has one more set. I paid $320 shipped.
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Front subframe all set... PEZ mounts pictured.
came out great.
Front subframe all set... It's coated in Chassis Saver -I can smash it with a hammer and it does not scratch or chip -also kills rust like POR-15
(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/hs041.snc6/167123_1388373969277_1829922146_702113_5346649_n.jpg)
(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs884.ash1/179229_1388374409288_1829922146_702114_1702753_n.jpg)
:bacon:
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looks good bacon bits :)
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Engine bay done in chassis saver as well... you can spill brake fluid on this stuff and it wipes off without a mark -hell I can hit it with a hammer and it leaves to marks.
(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/hs003.snc6/165329_1386328878151_1829922146_699312_3335044_n.jpg)
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Nice work Andrew! that chassis saver looks like a good idea for thses 20+ year old cars.
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(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs1388.snc4/164021_1392962363984_1829922146_709317_5908364_n.jpg)
(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/hs062.snc6/167237_1392962563989_1829922146_709319_3028223_n.jpg)
(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs1365.snc4/163741_1392962923998_1829922146_709321_3332567_n.jpg)
(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs892.ash1/180070_1392963164004_1829922146_709322_7872893_n.jpg)
(http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/hs066.snc6/167651_1392963284007_1829922146_709323_4044917_n.jpg)
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Wow that stuff is like new!
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Wow that stuff is like new!
yeah even the trashed crank is clean as fuck... everything only had about 2000 miles on it.
Everything in the top end is usable as well as the pistons... The crank is soooo far gone it's amazing. The thrust bearings chewed a good .5mm out of the crank.
So now I need to swap reluctor wheels... talked to Pez and he told me how fun it is. Ugggghghhhh.
Anyway...going to order a new oil pump -valve springs/pushrods, gasket set and some rod bolts.... them I'm pretty much good to go.
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Reluctor wheel is swapped onto the new crank -it was not that bad at all... assembly will start this week.
re doing base plates for the cage:
(http://mirodrift.com/wp-content/gallery/build-2011/imgp1728.jpg)
will look like this:
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y203/Justone1/Customer%20Cars/RadDans%20Rollcage/7.jpg)
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Test fitting skirts:
(http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/hs289.snc6/181725_1404659416403_1829922146_725594_2551306_n.jpg)
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Cage and skirts are looking great man. :)
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cage work looks great!
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Thanks guys... cage and engine should be done this week -then time to put it all back together!
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nice bro! congrats i need to get started on mine before its too late..lol
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will look like this:
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y203/Justone1/Customer%20Cars/RadDans%20Rollcage/7.jpg)
Good to see you doing the main hoop support correctly. I've seen so many make the mistake of putting the hoop support on top of the bar going from strut to strut, rather than to the floor of the trunk.
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Everything done in weatherpak connectors -3 plugs and the dash comes out/goes in... also cut off the shifter surround.
(http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/hs310.snc6/181887_1405361873964_1829922146_727482_2181037_n.jpg)
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Good to see you doing the main hoop support correctly. I've seen so many make the mistake of putting the hoop support on top of the bar going from strut to strut, rather than to the floor of the trunk.
Yeah -you cannot do that -basically all your support is then in shear -no good.
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Yeah -you cannot do that -basically all your support is then in shear -no good.
Its surprising the number of cages I've seen built like that. I feel like every other drag race cage is done that way.
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(http://mirodrift.com/wp-content/gallery/build-2011/imgp1732.jpg)
(http://mirodrift.com/wp-content/gallery/build-2011/imgp1737.jpg)
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that is where my main hoop is anchoring too, i don't like it when they go all the way to the floor pan behind the seat
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that is where my main hoop is anchoring too, i don't like it when they go all the way to the floor pan behind the seat
Yeah -That makes no sense IMO -plus I'm not a small guy and I need the room... I barely fit in the car without the cage -so this should be interesting...
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My cage is anchored there as well.
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(http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/168051_1408212945239_1829922146_731970_6405209_n.jpg)
(http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/181647_1408213145244_1829922146_731971_6869133_n.jpg)
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cage work
(http://mirodrift.com/wp-content/gallery/build-2011/imgp1742_0.jpg)
(http://mirodrift.com/wp-content/gallery/build-2011/imgp1747.jpg)
(http://mirodrift.com/wp-content/gallery/build-2011/imgp1751.jpg)
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Very nice. I like your welding and the cage looks really good.
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Looks great.
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Man looks like your doing a great job on that cage! I love seeing this stuff.
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Looking great Andrew!
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Thanks guys!
Halo is all welded in and front down bars... pics later...
door bars and rear down bars left.
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cage done:
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cage pron:
(http://mirodrift.com/wp-content/gallery/build-2011/imgp1764.jpg)
(http://mirodrift.com/wp-content/gallery/build-2011/imgp1766.jpg)
(http://mirodrift.com/wp-content/gallery/build-2011/imgp1767.jpg)
(http://mirodrift.com/wp-content/gallery/build-2011/imgp1768.jpg)
(http://mirodrift.com/wp-content/gallery/build-2011/imgp1775.jpg)
(http://mirodrift.com/wp-content/gallery/build-2011/imgp1777.jpg)
(http://mirodrift.com/wp-content/gallery/build-2011/imgp1790.jpg)
(http://mirodrift.com/wp-content/gallery/build-2011/imgp1786.jpg)
(http://mirodrift.com/wp-content/gallery/build-2011/imgp1789.jpg)
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Be very careful "squirt welding" with a mig gun, that's a good way to get bad weld joints and crappy penetration.
I like the cage a lot, good work.
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no gussets?
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Is that the JD2 bender you used ?
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Can you still use the window cranks?
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Be very careful "squirt welding" with a mig gun, that's a good way to get bad weld joints and crappy penetration.
I like the cage a lot, good work.
I did not do the work on this -my buddy did -I do use the "squirt welding" technique when I weld with MIG -I make sure there is enough heat to get good penetration.
Is that the JD2 bender you used ?
It is a J2 Bender
no gussets?
Nope -not really needed -I can add them in later if I want.
Can you still use the window cranks?
Yes.
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The dash is being a PITA
It's fugly and weighs 10x more than a S13 dash I happen to have laying around... so I'm considering an aluminum kit or fitting the S13 dash. I have hacked up the S13 dash and it might just work with some finesse.
EDIT:
Got the FC dash in -what a PITA...
Trick is there is a skeleton if you will on the back that unbolts from the plastic/rubber dash trim... I had to remove this from the dash and install it first -then fit the dash.
Tricky tricky....
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love it, very nice work!
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it's in -going to have to make trim pieces for the ends -headed to get some ABS plastic in a few.
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Primered -then 2 coats of flat black -prob do another 2 or 3 coats.
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New shift lever -should be short enough no to interfere with the dash:
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saaaaaaweeeeeeeeeeet
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Mounting electronics -will be trimmed -painted ect -it's installed with vibration absorbing bushings.
It's a piece of lexan bolted to the cage -then the aluminum panel to the lexan -good location and the lex gives some protection from whatever flies in the window lol
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5058/5454249754_3d8439ff32_z.jpg)
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5060/5454250434_33ac1d4391_z.jpg)
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Dude your build has started to get pretty intense....
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Quite a bit of tube in there, I dig it.
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Dude your build has started to get pretty intense....
First event is April 2nd -it's crunch time. My goal is to have everything done except for the actual engine being in by the end of the weekend. So basically I'm going to do all the wiring -seats -harnesses -ect. Going to start on the wiring today.
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Andrew what are you doing for the wiring? R u keeping the stock harness or getting an aftermarket kit?
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Andrew what are you doing for the wiring? R u keeping the stock harness or getting an aftermarket kit?
look earlier in my build thread -I rewired the entire car -made a chassis harness from scratch.
everything is controlled from this guy:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4016/4633099490_9c41c4ed13_b.jpg)
mounting it here with a piece of Lexan -still needs to be trimmed, painted ect -this pic is just a mock-up.
Everything is weatherpack connections -easily serviceable/replaceable -I'll be making a smaller version of that board when I have time -just need it to run for now.
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5060/5454250434_33ac1d4391_z.jpg)
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5253/5453637789_6455a42888_z.jpg)
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Engine block is back from machine shop... had them throughly clean it and press in new cam bearings -one final cleaning of every part and assembly will begin!
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5219/5469233273_bb235de674_b.jpg)
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very nice man!!!
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Awesome build.
Do you have any information on your super low seat brackets?
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Awesome build.
Do you have any information on your super low seat brackets?
I made them lol
I bought a Bride bracket and I clearly was not going to fit -so I got some flat stock and went to work... no sliders -the seats are solid mounted to the floor.
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Any pictures? I am looking for ideas on making my own.
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^^^ sorry no pics of them
So I had the DTSS pressed out then in by a friend -he also did the rear wheel bearings for me.
The little metal sleeve that the knuckle was hanging up on was an easy fix -tiny bit of heat ( I suggest propane not MAP) and it moved freely.
Anyway -Rear sub is back in.
Sub and trailing arms coated, DTSS elim, MMR Diff and subframe mounts, Delrin front diff mount and center camber arm installed.
Engine should be back Thursday -ready to drive!
Also re did the fuel system -it was too low and had me worried.
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5061/5659332516_6650a2de72_z.jpg)
This is where the sleeve was interfering with the trailing arm:
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5301/5659334416_e569cf0eb8_z.jpg)
Rigged up a socket (22mm) nut bolt and washer -a little propane heat and it moved very easily -in fact I prob could have done it without the socket, ect -just some good gloves.
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5144/5659333946_1cb1b08cff.jpg)
Here it is after moving it a bit for proper clearance:
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5189/5658761681_459d4801f8_z.jpg)
Entire car was undercoated and any rust was hit with "Chassis Saver" (like POR-15)
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5184/5659332988_6a014c74b8_z.jpg)
Here is the rear knuckle all cleaned up -bushings installed and back on the car:
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5224/5658762731_d7b416b00e_z.jpg)
Engine should be done thursday -I will have the car running within 2-3 hours of getting it home. Break it in Friday -drive a little on the street Sat -thenI'm hosting a FD Pro-Am event Sunday so I can really shake it down.
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Always awesome updates on your build. (except when you updated about the engine death)
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Always awesome updates on your build. (except when you updated about the engine death)
hopefully the next update has vid of the car running :)
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sweet!
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Royal Wedding day -LS2 and FC wed after a 2 year courtship.
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Royal Wedding day -LS2 and FC wed after a 2 year courtship.
All the rotards will be there to protest
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Royal Wedding day -LS2 and FC wed after a 2 year courtship.
All the rotards will be there to protest
My buddy is a big rotary dude -sponsored by Mazdaspeed in FD... I told him I'm going to convert him at Sundays event 8)
ON the rotard note -I was at the track wed night and saw a 1st gen rotary lift after 1st gear and still run 11.1 @70mph :D my buddy was jumping up and down.
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I have seen some nasty 1st gen rx7s at the track.
Not too many 2nds and no 3rds.
Also there was a little old school Mazda with a huge turbo 13b there going low 9s letting off at the bottom.
Sounded like he was launching at 14,000rpms hahaha
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Motor and trans are back in -headers on -from here it is downhill... going to get it all prepped -go to sleep then fire it in the morning.
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nice job!!
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nice job!!
Soooooooo excited!
I'm going to break it in tomorrow -then shakedown at the track Sunday
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vids asap:)
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vids asap:)
Big burnout vid as soon ASAP -trust me -I'm ready to rip this thing.
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vids asap:)
Big burnout vid as soon ASAP -trust me -I'm ready to rip this thing.
Hell yeah! :bacon:
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subscribing
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In for hoonage :popcorn:
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It's running -getting a MAF code -but it idles fine -going to go bleed the brakes/clutch and go for a ride... track tomorrow.
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OK well got it running yesterday and today was "break in" at the track as I was hosting the Hold the Line FD Pro-Am event at Monticello.
I drove around for a while taking it easy on it then later in the day romped on it a few times. The power is simply amazing and gives me great control of the car -grip diving I can easily say it's one of the fastest cars I have driven and is just plain scary... the gear ratios I went with are pretty much perfect -the dogbox is insanely loud... The throttle is only opening about 70% due to the gas pedal hitting the floor board (easy fix) -I need to learn better throttle control as I'm used to the rotary days when I had it nailed all the time. I have the car a bit too low and the front tires were smoking at full lock -then would hang up enough to be a problem. I'm' going to raise it up a bit and align it this week. PS is waaaay lite -I already cut 2 coils on the spring -but I'm going to have to address this issue -frankly it's dangerous -there is little to no resistance in the steering wheel and is just too twitchy at speed... All in all a great day, going to jack up the car tomorrow and go over everything -all in all no major hickups.
Here is how she sits now -action shots soon. (http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/230792_10150245294980645_720475644_9224967_1293697_n.jpg)
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How well was the cooling with that radiator leaned that far back?
Congrats on getting it done!
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How well was the cooling with that radiator leaned that far back?
Congrats on getting it done!
highest water temp I saw all day was 200* oil was sitting at 210-215 hot lapping... worked out quite good -I'm running water wetter -love that stuff....
I have the fan kick in way early -it's a one speed 2500cfm fan -seems to be good so far -we were at like 85* track temps today.
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Videos please!
I wanna hear that dog box
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Videos please!
I wanna hear that dog box
I did not do any in/on car -lemme see what my media crew got and I'll get something up...
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Congrats, glad to hear she's slideways man!
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Looks great, the wheels are a definite improvement. Get some WOT! :bacon:
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yo congrats bro!! so happy for you man!
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PS is waaaay lite -I already cut 2 coils on the spring -but I'm going to have to address this issue -frankly it's dangerous -there is little to no resistance in the steering wheel and is just too twitchy at speed...
dont you have a KRC pump?
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AWESOME!! Glad you got her back on the track. Wheels look tits btw
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PS is waaaay lite -I already cut 2 coils on the spring -but I'm going to have to address this issue -frankly it's dangerous -there is little to no resistance in the steering wheel and is just too twitchy at speed...
dont you have a KRC pump?
nah it's a turn one pump
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Sorted out my suspension today -changed oil and romped on it -damn this thing is seriously fast -gunned it in 1st left about 50ft of solid black lines -caught second and left another 50ft of lines... amazing.
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(http://www.hahastop.com/pictures/Moar_Is_Needed.jpg)
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I am not as creative as ^^^ but in car video or it did not happen
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I am not as creative as ^^^ but in car video or it did not happen
there is vid from the event -just waiting on media dudes.
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Yeah sure mate
Just kiddin' Looking forward to it
I am thinking of switching to dog box and keen to hear the changes
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Hammer drop
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5108/5685131307_4920e51495_b.jpg)
1 - 2 shift
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5307/5685131785_92e5f62172_b.jpg)
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Hell yeah! :D
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nice job bro!
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Dyno results:
374hp/386ftlbs at the rear wheels -ran out of injector -we pulled it back a little and made 362/376 -leaving it like that for now. My tuner -Charles at Sickspeedperformance.com did a great job -He thinks going to a SVO 30lb and some more timing (we were really conservative) we can get close to the 400 mark. I'm thinking to wait a while and just get used to it as is -remember I'm going from NA rotary to this!
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3190/5694558054_a17ce8cff4_b.jpg)
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I would guess horsepower peaks around 6100 so you've definitely still got some beans left in that thing :)
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Yes wait awhile and get used to it.... then add a little more.
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Had the car out for it's first real track day today. Everything is in order -no surprises which was great for a first time out. I am "relearning" to drive it...
Car feels OK -needs some alignment tuning -the straight line power is simply fantastic and I can initiate a drift with a simple blip of the throttle or a light clutch kick (the RPS I have is amazing). I am struggling with the PS -got the reducer fitting from turn one -yet it is still too light for me -I want more feedback from the wheel -I just felt the front end was too "twitchy" all day long no matter what I did... I think I need to somehow reduce more of the pressure in the system -align it with some toe in for stability and possibly change out the steering knuckles I have for some better engineered ones. I'm going to start by throwing it on the rack for a real alignment then work from there -I had everything apart and did a home alignment and I could tell that the FL was toed out and the FR was about zero (where I wanted them both to be).
Highest water temp all day was 210* -however my oil temp got higher then I would have liked to have seen -I saw about 240* a few times after doing a few hot laps -I pulled over and let her cool for a few mins then went back out. I have a big Earl's cooler that it looks like I'm going to have to install.
All in all a great day -I'll have some pics and in car vid soon.
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Is the steering too twitchy or does it feel overboosted and disconnected?
How much caster are you running and have you made caster adjustable? More caster will take some of the twitchiness out of the car. A toed out wheel will make the car feel twitchy as well.
It should be pretty easy to have some new plates made for the front that will allow you to adjust caster.
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Is the steering too twitchy or does it feel overboosted and disconnected?
How much caster are you running and have you made caster adjustable? More caster will take some of the twitchiness out of the car. A toed out wheel will make the car feel twitchy as well.
It should be pretty easy to have some new plates made for the front that will allow you to adjust caster.
Yeah I'm thinking about having some caster plates made -I don't have shit for caster now... someone on here (cough cough PEZ) has a 2 axis cutter that should be able to make plates for my coils no prob.
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If Pez is busy a local machine shop should be able to handle it If you bring in your plate and take some measurments and pictures of the underside of the shock tower. Shoudn't be more than $150-$200 including material. I had machine work done on my plates for $50.
More caster will help you a lot.
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Removed the MAF as we did a speed density tune. Intake looks a TON better and is off the rad/PS cooler... going to make a shroud for it this week.
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5107/5700288857_d9ebb37554_b.jpg)
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Here is a shot off me dropping wheels lol I was having a tough time at first!
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5024/5700769508_5c088e2085_b.jpg)
(http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5184/5700769390_896228be9d_b.jpg)
First in car!
Untitled (http://vimeo.com/23448897)
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congrats bro!! i know you are happy man!!!
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Very nice. It looks so much fun.
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(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2557/5703283208_5c2409a0a2_b.jpg)
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Hey how much was the full trans setup?
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Hey how much was the full trans setup?
well there a a bunch of variables - for the trans fig about $1800 or so used -Bellhousing was like $300 -TOB $150 TOB retainer like $40 Stock style clutch/FW will work. It kinda depends what ratios are in the one you find -I had all mine changed -everything inspected -set me back another $700
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Hey how much was the full trans setup?
well there a a bunch of variables - for the trans fig about $1800 or so used -Bellhousing was like $300 -TOB $150 TOB retainer like $40 Stock style clutch/FW will work. It kinda depends what ratios are in the one you find -I had all mine changed -everything inspected -set me back another $700
Man that is deal! I am a manual newb..... but something like this is stronger than something like a t56 right? A lot or not so much?
Thanks
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Hey how much was the full trans setup?
well there a a bunch of variables - for the trans fig about $1800 or so used -Bellhousing was like $300 -TOB $150 TOB retainer like $40 Stock style clutch/FW will work. It kinda depends what ratios are in the one you find -I had all mine changed -everything inspected -set me back another $700
Its lighter than a T56. A T56 built to handle ~800 HP is only $1800 or so.
Man that is deal! I am a manual newb..... but something like this is stronger than something like a t56 right? A lot or not so much?
Thanks
Its lighter than a T56. A T56 built to handle ~800 HP is only $1800 or so. These straight cut gears are pretty loud too.
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Hey how much was the full trans setup?
well there a a bunch of variables - for the trans fig about $1800 or so used -Bellhousing was like $300 -TOB $150 TOB retainer like $40 Stock style clutch/FW will work. It kinda depends what ratios are in the one you find -I had all mine changed -everything inspected -set me back another $700
Its lighter than a T56. A T56 built to handle ~800 HP is only $1800 or so.
Man that is deal! I am a manual newb..... but something like this is stronger than something like a t56 right? A lot or not so much?
Thanks
Its lighter than a T56. A T56 built to handle ~800 HP is only $1800 or so. These straight cut gears are pretty loud too.
Yeah I deff would not want it in a street car -I drove it 40min to the dyno and it was pretty rough...
-I think this one is rated at 1000ftlbs or right around there.
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:confused:id rock it!
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:confused:id rock it!
let me get some more in car so you can understand how loud it really is lol
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Took it out this past weekend to flog on it... -hit the wall pretty good lol
It was my first time out with it that I really pushed the car and man -this thing is amazing. Very happy I found a way to keep her.
Broke the front wheel in half -bent control arm, ball joint, fender -some other small shit -chassis is fine.
Vids of the wreck soon.
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In the future, you're not supposed to do that. FYI.
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In the future, you're not supposed to do that. FYI.
Hahahaha -you know I thought I was taking it easy and going slow -turns out I was going really damn fast (top of 3rd so like 90-100mph) you'll see in the vid -it's kinda ugly.
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LOL. Whoops.
Just glad you're getting to keep/drive the car.
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LOL. Whoops.
Just glad you're getting to keep/drive the car.
Thanks man -me too. Still some rough times ahead -but all in all I cannot complain too much.
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This makes me happy in the pants.
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Sooooo.......no selling the fc?.....this is a good thing! :)
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Sooooo.......no selling the fc?.....this is a good thing! :)
very good thing -although I still have a huge turd sammich I have to eat :barf:
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In the future, you're not supposed to do that. FYI.
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
:yay:
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^^^^^ HAhahahahah
well most people com into that bank at like 30mph -I thought 80-90mph was a good idea -guess not :)
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by looking at those pics seems like you got off pretty easy. Glad to hear it. Sick tranny BTW!!
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I was there. The damage is pretty minimal for the way it looked. It looked brutal. I was just glad Andrew wasn't hurt. RX7s and rotary powered cars were dropping like flies. I blew the motor in my FC (reason i'm on this forum) right before Andrew's crash. Petty blew the motor (13b) in his corolla, the guy with the Green FC busted his v-mount radiator, it was crazy how fast people were falling out. Andrew will be back way sooner than me though :(
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Where are the videos!??!?
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I was there. The damage is pretty minimal for the way it looked. It looked brutal. I was just glad Andrew wasn't hurt. RX7s and rotary powered cars were dropping like flies. I blew the motor in my FC (reason i'm on this forum) right before Andrew's crash. Petty blew the motor (13b) in his corolla, the guy with the Green FC busted his v-mount radiator, it was crazy how fast people were falling out. Andrew will be back way sooner than me though :(
let's get that thing swapped -hit me up -just opened a shop.
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Vidz or ban.
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Yeah I'm def gonna need some help with this one. Right now I'm trying to do some planning and as always put some money together. It's always the money holding me back...wah wah. I'm going to be doing this swap on a budget so I'm trying to figure out what I can keep from my old setup.
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Vidz or ban.
easy sparky... soon. lol
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Andrew, I Hit you up!!! Where you at??
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^^^ Cooling will be fine... I have a few tricks up my sleeve.
DS fits like a glove! 8)
did a test fit of the dash - I need to get a different shifter lever:
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3415/4627590665_fa83de5cb9_b.jpg)
and u had to remove and move up the shifter and reweld correct ?
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^^^ Cooling will be fine... I have a few tricks up my sleeve.
DS fits like a glove! 8)
did a test fit of the dash - I need to get a different shifter lever:
and u had to remove and move up the shifter and reweld correct ?
Lots of hammering and cutting.
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Really enjoying your thread - looks like a ton of fun to be had !
BTW what is that front lip you are running?
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Really enjoying your thread - looks like a ton of fun to be had !
BTW what is that front lip you are running?
that front lip is from a 93 Honda Accord -made to fit :)
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Actually looks pretty good- any details on what you needed to do to make it fit. Saw from one of the pics in your build thread that the end pieces were separate.
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Actually looks pretty good- any details on what you needed to do to make it fit. Saw from one of the pics in your build thread that the end pieces were separate.
fits right on just have to have ingenuity ;)
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What size are your fender flares? 30mm or 50mm? I want to do fender flares on my car. I have a full body kit and overfender on the car i just got and its to much for everyday driving so im thinking of fender flares. Are this the zg flares?
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What size are your fender flares? 30mm or 50mm? I want to do fender flares on my car. I have a full body kit and overfender on the car i just got and its to much for everyday driving so im thinking of fender flares. Are this the zg flares?
Yeah ZG flares -the fronts on the rear and they are reversed -then cut -then... this, that and the other and they work. Lots of labor -they are 50mm
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Hey!!
Where did you get those fender flares?
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What size are your fender flares? 30mm or 50mm? I want to do fender flares on my car. I have a full body kit and overfender on the car i just got and its to much for everyday driving so im thinking of fender flares. Are this the zg flares?
Yeah ZG flares -the fronts on the rear and they are reversed -then cut -then... this, that and the other and they work. Lots of labor -they are 50mm
Sorry I am a tard.... I just read your whole build thread after I posted.. lol I'll look them up..
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Anything new with this? Are you still running the transmission? I am really interested in how you got such a long 4th gear? Everywhere I see they say only 1:1 for 4th gear.
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Anything new with this? Are you still running the transmission? I am really interested in how you got such a long 4th gear? Everywhere I see they say only 1:1 for 4th gear.
Still running the gear -car is getting parted soon so it will be for sale.
Perry Tripp had the trans work done for me: http://www.trippmotorsportsinc.com/trippbio.html (http://www.trippmotorsportsinc.com/trippbio.html)