NoRotors.com - RX7 Engine Swap Forum
Technical Information => Build Threads => Topic started by: AKINA FC on January 16, 2012, 12:07:19 AM
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Since my original build got lost in the transfer, I figured I would start another one with what I am currently doing. Nothing too exciting but I figured you guys would enjoy the pictures along the way.
Finally got around to getting my machine work done and got started on the new motor. Nothing amazing just a good rotating assembly and valve train.
Stock crank, K1 rods and Wiseco pistons, GFX rings, ARP main and head studs, clevite bearings, melling 10296 pump, comp double roller adjustable timing set, comp pushrods and camshaft, CTSV-R lifters, LS2 dampner, Stock 317 heads ported and polished, manley valves, PRC 675 spring kit, 1.7 yella terra rockers.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_2/medium_4187.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4187)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_2/medium_4186.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4186)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_2/medium_4197.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4197)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_2/medium_4196.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4196)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_2/medium_4189.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4189)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_2/medium_4190.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4190)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_2/medium_4191.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4191)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_2/medium_4192.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4192)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_2/medium_4198.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4198)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_2/medium_4199.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4199)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_2/medium_4194.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4194)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_2/medium_4195.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4195)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_2/medium_4200.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4200)
This is where it sits as of tonight, I would have got the heads finished and on the short block but ran out of shims for the springs. I will get pic's of the heads before I bolt them on.
Checked for PR length and ordered those along with the extra shims tonight. Orderd my improved racing baffle tonight also. My Mcleod RXT twin disc and aluminum flywheel will be here this week as well. So far so good, hopefully I can keep at it and not be pulled away with other side jobs.
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What PCM are you going to use for a 24x crank and a 4x cam?
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How much power you shooting for and what cam did you pick? Did the super charger get too heat soaked on the road course or what?
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What PCM are you going to use for a 24x crank and a 4x cam?
They make those cam gears for both, I thought the same thing when i got. The cam has the tone ring on the rear of it.
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How much power you shooting for and what cam did you pick? Did the super charger get too heat soaked on the road course or what?
The cam is 237/243 6xx /6xx on 116. It should make some where between 800-1000 rwhp.
Nothing wrong with the blower, works well on the road course, just wanted more power. I have a V7 YSI for it now.
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So is this still the 5.3L ? Are you going to run 8-rib this time around?
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Subscribed. Should be a great build!
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So is this still the 5.3L ? Are you going to run 8-rib this time around?
No, were going to put that motor in a 90 300ZX were converting. This ones a 04 LS6 block.
I have not decided yet if I'm doing a 8 rib serpentine or 10 rib, they make both styles in a single belt design. This one will be mounted on the passenger side head facing forward as I am going to put p/s back on it as well.
Thanks Track!
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Sometimes I wonder if your car can get any better. I was wrong.
Lovin it.
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Awesome. BIG fan of this car.
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It's gonna be a Beast! :D
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very nice, the YSI should move some air for you!
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Thanks guys :cheers: Got the long block finished for now, have to wait to put the rest of the tin on it when I pull the other motor out of the car and remove it from that engine. Still have to install breather fittings in the valve covers but I'm waiting to do that once its in the car and I have a better idea as to where all the new stuff is going in the engine bay. My flywheel showed up but the clutch kit won't arrive until this week, kinda bummed on that one. Time to order a bunch of other parts as well. Onto the pic's :chug:
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_2/medium_4210.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4210)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_2/medium_4201.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4201)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_2/medium_4202.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4202)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_2/medium_4203.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4203)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_2/medium_4204.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4204)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_2/medium_4205.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4205)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_2/medium_4206.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4206)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_2/medium_4207.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4207)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_2/medium_4208.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4208)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_2/medium_4209.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4209)
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Well the car has exploded and the real work has began. Got my clutch and some other various pieces which I forgot to take pictures of this time :( So far so good though, nothing out of the ordinary, would have got a lot farther if i didn't have to be a plumber all day saturday. Re-doing the exhaust when I am all said and done as well as the rest of the long list, decided to do 3" duals and different mufflers, still can't make up my mind on what mufflers I'm going with this time around but I am definetly going v-bands all through out the car (exhaust and cold side piping for the blower). After you take something apart so many times you get tired of fighting with it :D
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_2/medium_4235.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4235)
Old exhaust system
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_2/medium_4237.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4237)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_2/medium_4236.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4236)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_2/medium_4238.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4238)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_2/medium_4239.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4239)
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Boioioinnnnggg..... :bacon:
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Oooooh shiny pretty stuff. This is pimptastic.
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Yeaaaaaa Nice clutch too. What's wrong with the old exhaust?
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Haha Thanks guys. Nothing wrong with the exhaust really, sounds good and fits nice, just a pain in the ass to take apart over and over. Plus I wanted to put 3" in her :secret:
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Small update. Got the rest of the important bits installed on the new engine and got it back into the car. Prothane engine mounts, clutch installed and improved racing baffle. Cut out the front rad support and began measuring for the the new radiator set up. I don't want to get to far ahead of myself though until the blower shows up, then I can figure out exactly where everything is going to go. This time around I am making things fit around the blower.
On a side note I changed what blower I am going to use and pulled the trigger on buying it since my other head unit sold. I decided to go with a F1A. Multiple reasons for the change and I think it will be better suited for the application. Should have it in a week, procharger says a one week build time, so I am eagerly awaiting its arrival.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_2/medium_4259.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4259)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_2/medium_4260.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4260)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_3/medium_4262.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4262)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_3/medium_4263.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4263)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_3/medium_4264.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4264)
super secret pilot bearing removal tool lol
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_3/medium_4261.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4261)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_3/medium_4265.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4265)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_3/medium_4266.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4266)
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Any pics of how you build the splitter?
Im loving this build.
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Sorry, no real pics of the splitter build, I'll take some pics of the front end when building the new radiator setup.
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Got the rest of the main stuff done and hooked back up, engine is basically ready to rock. Ran into a small hitch with the new valve covers, had to notch the rear section of the drivers side cover to clear the brake booster, no big deal but having a hard time welding it since its clear powder coated. Cut out the rest of the rad support and started re-doing the wiring in the front. Got things measured up front and a good idea of what i want to do with the new radiator and charge pipes for the blower. Eagerly awaiting the blower so I can really get to moving on things!
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_3/medium_4282.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4282)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_3/medium_4283.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4283)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_3/medium_4284.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4284)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_3/medium_4285.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4285)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_3/medium_4286.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4286)
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I really have a lot of "unclean" feelings for your car...
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That front end just looks mean as hell.
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Thanks for the splitter pics!! Is the carbon piece a universal type?
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Thanks for the splitter pics!! Is the carbon piece a universal type?
I think Akina made it himself.
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I really have a lot of "unclean" feelings for your car...
I know what you mean.... But I don't think I could ever look at my car the same after I cheated on it :(
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Thanks for the splitter pics!! Is the carbon piece a universal type?
I think Akina made it himself.
Wannabefast is correct, it's twill weave wet laid over dibond - cheap, strong, lite weight and easily replaced when damaged. Stong enough to support me bouncing on it attached to the car, strong enough to bounce off the ground at the track and not get damaged :) I'll remember to take some pics when I make another this year. It takes about a afternoon to make, a day to dry and as much time as you want polishing it.
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Wannabefast is correct, it's twill weave wet laid over dibond - cheap, strong, lite weight and easily replaced when damaged. Stong enough to support me bouncing on it attached to the car, strong enough to bounce off the ground at the track and not get damaged I'll remember to take some pics when I make another this year. It takes about a afternoon to make, a day to dry and as much time as you want polishing it.
Can you make me one? :) (pause) fo' money?
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Thanks for the compliments guys :cheers:
I would have to think about that one wannabefast.
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I would have to think about that one wannabefast.
Is that a polite way of saying no haha :cheers:
I'll be here if you do tho for sure because it's really nice.
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I would have to think about that one wannabefast.
Is that a polite way of saying no haha :cheers:
I'll be here if you do tho for sure because it's really nice.
No, I'm not saying no ;), I would need to figure cost of materials, labor and shipping costs = :bacon: before saying yes or no :cheers:
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Awesome. Well keep up the great work here. I been a fan of your car since the beginning and i can't wait to see V2.0.
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Got more done this weekend, forgot the camera though. I will get pics this week.
Removed the front frame support and replaced it with 1-1/4" .058 wall chromolly tubing and 1/8 plate on each end. Moved it as far forward as possible, it now sits right behind the intercooler. Finished welding the drivers side valve cover and installed -10 AN fittings in each valve cover for crank case venting, planned out the hose routing and how I want to build the catch can. Also built new coil mount brackets out of aluminum, still don't know what I think of them. It's hard to make top mount factory coils look good, we'll see what you guys think when I post some pic's. But on to the fun stuff.
Finally after a long and agonising wait LOL all 9"s of F1A goodness!!
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_3/medium_4288.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4288)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_3/medium_4290.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4290)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_3/medium_4289.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4289)
Also, courtesy of Ronin Speedworks these arrived! Thank you guys for packing these so well, I now have enough bubble wrap to last me a lifetime.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_3/medium_4287.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4287)
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:o
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I got the blower mounting almost done, still have a lot of little tweaks left to do to them before I am happy but so far I think it is turning out good. Once I get the final position of the blower nailed down I will make the plates out 5/8" 6061 aluminum and the standoffs out of 1" 6061 aluminum rod.
Got the ignition coil mounts done, there rather plain looking but I would like to hear what you guys think. I also took a picture of the relocated front frame brace. Don't mind the wiring up there, It will be re-done once the radiator gets here.
Front bar
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_3/medium_4291.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4291)
Coil Mounts
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_3/medium_4297.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4297)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_3/medium_4298.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4298)
Blower
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_3/medium_4299.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4299)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_3/medium_4300.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4300)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_3/medium_4301.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4301)
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Too bad you couldn't fit a big blower in there, LOL. That thing is a hoss. ;)
Looking great.
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Wow. Very nice! Who makes that bracket? With that mounting, you are using a standard rotation unit, correct?
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Nope thats CCW.
It looks like that thing takes up the whole darn engine bay! Is it heavy?
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Those coil mounts are badass. Could you make me a set?
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God Damnit AKINA!!
You made me get baby gravy all over my keyboard! :yay:
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The blower is a counter clock wise rotation and weighs 14-15lbs so not that heavy. The bracket started out as a A&A piece but not much of it will work, in hind sight I really should have just built my own from scratch like last time. I thought/hoped this would make it easier but it has made it harder, in the end it cost me more money, oh well too late now :(
I called procharger today to see what kind of spec they have for angle on the head unit so the internal oiling system works properly and found out the angle I have it set at is to steep by 10* so another small adjustment to be made. I made some more templates tonight and now got it nailed down to final design. The new materials should be here tomorrow. :cheers:
Sending you a pm Mefarri
Thanks guys!
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Those coil pack mounts are gorgeous. Make a set for mefarri out of cardboard to match everything else he has. :yay:
Motor/engine bay look great, keep up the good work.
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Thanks guys.
I got quite a bit accomplished this weekend even though the pictures don't really show it. Brackety is done except for some visual changes like nicer hardware, cutting a radius on the ends of some of the brackets and polishing everything. I will be changing the spacers that seperate the two brackets from 5/8" to 1", would have done that today but ran out of time to put them on the lathe. Should have all of that done next weekend and have the finished product :cheers:
On a side note I sent my radiator design off to some manufactures for a bid and hopefully will have a response soon as that is the next step that needs to take place. I also changed out my map sensor for a 3 bar, installed my 80lb injectors and new spark plug wires. There are no plugs in the motor yet so if you noticed the wires are touching the headers this is why.
I enjoy hearing everyones feedback on this and I am open to ideas if someone see's something that could be improved upon! :chug:
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_3/medium_4309.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4309)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_3/medium_4312.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4312)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_3/medium_4311.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4311)
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If you havne't already, contact Howe Racing for the radiator.
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God does that look sweet! How much longer until you say F it and go with a direct-drive blower?
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Beautiful car, can't wait to see how this turns out. :popcorn:
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Thanks guys. :cheers:
Howe Racing was one of the companys I sent my design to for a bid, they make a quality product. I am eagerly awaiting a response from all three companys, hopefully will hear something soon since this is the next step for this build.
I did think about building a gear drive set up cool, it would have been easier, but I didn't know how well that would work in a road course application. Everyone I talked too had never seen it done before and I could not find any information on how the gear drive/blower would react to constant rpm changes and negative loads (? down shifting). My thoughts were it would increase crank snout load/fatigue and be harder on the blower. The serpentine belt set up should allow for some slip and be easier on parts, in my opinion, but I am not a engineer. I would love for some one with more knowledge on this to chime in :chug:
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You know those builds that make you feel like you didn't do enough with your car.... umm yeah...
sub'd... awesome build man.
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Well I got a little more done between all of my other household projects :punch: Blower bracketry is done, charge pipes are done and the catch can is almost done. Started on my power steering setup, waiting on various pieces to complete that. New exhaust materials and mufflers will be here this week as well. I decided to have PRC build my radiator, they say it should ship the first week of april. Lots of other little various things completed as well, on to the pics :cheers:
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_3/medium_4402.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4402)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_3/medium_4405.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4405)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_3/medium_4403.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4403)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_3/medium_4404.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4404)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_3/medium_4406.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4406)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_3/medium_4407.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4407)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_3/medium_4408.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4408)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_3/medium_4409.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4409)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_3/medium_4410.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4410)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_3/medium_4411.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4411)
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Looking FANTASTIC.
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Dang this looks sick.
One question - Are you going to pull any vacuum on you valve covers? Or crankcase?
I have a breather system but no vacuum what so ever in the system. It worries me.
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Shiny awesome :bacon:
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loving the intake, that is my style
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I have a breather system but no vacuum what so ever in the system. It worries me.
trust me you are fine. 14L+ diesels running an asston of cylinder pressure have run vented to the atmosphere forever
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I have a breather system but no vacuum what so ever in the system. It worries me.
trust me you are fine. 14L+ diesels running an asston of cylinder pressure have run vented to the atmosphere forever
Yup yup :D
Thanks for the comments guys!
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:o
That is all.....
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Wow. Looks really good.
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SO CLEAN IT MAKES ME WANNA SLAP MY MOMMA! Great job buddy! I see you to suffer from the handicap called "OCD" lol
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SO CLEAN IT MAKES ME WANNA SLAP MY MOMMA! Great job buddy! I see you to suffer from the handicap called "OCD" lol
Haha Yeah just a little bit, the down side is it makes things take a little longer than they should! Thanks! :cheers:
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SO CLEAN IT MAKES ME WANNA SLAP MY MOMMA! Great job buddy! I see you to suffer from the handicap called "OCD" lol
Haha Yeah just a little bit, the down side is it makes things take a little longer than they should! Thanks! :cheers:
You are not alone. :) Looks baller as usual. Who makes the air filter?
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I will have to see this car in person someday, the pictures just look amazing.
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SO CLEAN IT MAKES ME WANNA SLAP MY MOMMA! Great job buddy! I see you to suffer from the handicap called "OCD" lol
Haha Yeah just a little bit, the down side is it makes things take a little longer than they should! Thanks! :cheers:
You are not alone. :) Looks baller as usual. Who makes the air filter?
Thanks! The filter is a AEM/K&N dryflow
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I will have to see this car in person someday, the pictures just look amazing.
Well I'll let you know when I head to Hastings for NASA TT event this summer :cheers:
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AkinaFC will we be getting a peek at the 5.3 300zx conversion any time soon? I always wondered why that swap
hasnt swept the z community as hard as it has the fc/fd world. Plenty of pampered n/a 1990-1996 300zx's for sale.
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man i felt like an ass as soon as i hit the post button for the reply above. 300zx owners dont have rotaries and
they also have the TT swap route. regardless, would love to see what you do with the Z.
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I'll get some photos of it, its a project that I am helping a friend complete. I really want him to do as much of it as he can on his own, means more in the end if you know what I mean. I also have two other cars to get done before really focusing on that one, I have to finish the wiring/tuning on a 72 6.2L LS roots blown camaro and mufftang LS turbo project. Between all of that finish mine as well LOL
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I will have to see this car in person someday, the pictures just look amazing.
Well I'll let you know when I head to Hastings for NASA TT event this summer :cheers:
That would be great. Keep me posted.
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I will have to see this car in person someday, the pictures just look amazing.
Well I'll let you know when I head to Hastings for NASA TT event this summer :cheers:
That would be great. Keep me posted.
Do you ever go to MAM ? I love MAM.
Steve
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I will have to see this car in person someday, the pictures just look amazing.
Well I'll let you know when I head to Hastings for NASA TT event this summer :cheers:
That would be great. Keep me posted.
Do you ever go to MAM ? I love MAM.
Steve
Have not run at Mid america, I want to though. If work and funds permit, I would like to go this year!
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Small update. Exhaust finished, radiator installed, power steering complete, breather lines for engine and blower finished. Should have the rest of my parts needed to complete this part of the build by the end of this week. I still need to finish the radiator support, build the stut tower brace and ducting/shrouding for the radiator. Hopefully with any luck I will finally get to fire it up next weekend! :cheers:
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_3/medium_4467.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4467)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_3/medium_4468.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4468)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_3/medium_4470.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4470)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_3/medium_4469.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4469)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_3/medium_4471.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4471)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_3/medium_4472.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4472)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_3/medium_4473.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4473)
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WOW!! :bacon:
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This. Is. A. Fucking. Sweet. Build. Top. Notch. Period.
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wow dude i love it! your fc truly cant get any better
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How to build an FC, 401 class series. :D
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pfff looks slow :D
not :)
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I am aware Akina has already been car of the month once already but the new version could qualify again. Or car of the year or car of the decade.
Simply awesome.
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:'( ....its just sooo clean :bacon:
Mad props to you my friend. We demand video when she is on the road. :gruffy:
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Haha Thanks Guys! I really appreciate the comments, I will definately take some vids. Getting a new Go pro to play with :cheers:
I am so friggin excited to start this thing, I really hope everything goes as planned this weekend :chug:
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mmmmmmm
i love the inlet cone deal on the blower, it makes me wet
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awesome build!
I'll be coping some of your ideas on my turbo build .
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Well I didn't get as far as I hoped but she should be ready to fire next weekend! Finished the plumbing for the cooling system, coolant overflow can, relocated the main harness and fuse blocks, primed the power steering system, fitted the drive belt, filled the trans and bled the clutch.... whole bunch of other little things done as well.
Still need to finish the core support, upper radiator cover, ducting the for the radiator and build the new strut brace. Some other small things too but I can't remember them all at the moment.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_3/medium_4487.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4487)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_3/medium_4488.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4488)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_3/medium_4489.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4489)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_3/medium_4490.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4490)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_3/medium_4491.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4491)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_4/medium_4492.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4492)
Its kinda funny to see it with the hood shut again, hard to believe all of that is shoved in there LOL
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Nice work!
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Outstanding work bud
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Someday........ *sigh*..........
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AkinaFC will we be getting a peek at the 5.3 300zx conversion any time soon? I always wondered why that swap
hasnt swept the z community as hard as it has the fc/fd world. Plenty of pampered n/a 1990-1996 300zx's for sale.
Shhh its a well kept secret. My Z32 is currently sitting next to an LM7/T56, and im thinking pretty hard about it :)
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AkinaFC will we be getting a peek at the 5.3 300zx conversion any time soon? I always wondered why that swap
hasnt swept the z community as hard as it has the fc/fd world. Plenty of pampered n/a 1990-1996 300zx's for sale.
Shhh its a well kept secret. My Z32 is currently sitting next to an LM7/T56, and im thinking pretty hard about it :)
Seems to be quite a interest in that build from the pm's I have been receiving. I will post up a seperate build thread for it in the future for you guys, it will be a while though. The friend who owns it is collecting parts currently before moving any further ahead with it.
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She lives again :chug: I will make a vid for you guys soon. But here is some pictures from today :cheers:
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_4/medium_4555.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4555)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_4/medium_4556.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4556)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_4/medium_4557.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4557)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_4/medium_4558.JPG) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4558)
On a small note, I would have been further along but I had a power steering pump shaft and pulley fail on the initial break-in of the engine last week. Destroyed the belt, pulley, pump, reservoir and also threw ps fluid everywhere. So that took about 8 hours to clean everything up and install new parts. She runs like a champ now though :D
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My car wants to be like your car when it grows up.
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My car wants to be like your car when it grows up.
If that's the case... My car hasn't even begun to be a sperm cell in an infants nut sac...
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Love it, love it, love it...
Make sure you give some notice if you come up North to race it.
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that is gonna put the hurt on some people!
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Just a small idle vid for you guys, I will make a driving vid soon. Hope you enjoy! :cheers:
VID00017.MP4 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=l13bSgQvu4k#ws)
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:D i have a huge woody. Sounds just right, sleeper'ish in a sense :yay:
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It looks just awesome man. I really like it and words don't do no justice.
Maybe in the future - I can switch to a supercharger with no inter-cooler. Same location as you. It would be so easy, and it would clean up lots of piping and stuff.
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Thanks Guys :cheers: I'm really pleased with how the exhaust turned out/sounds, that camera makes it sound really quiet though and the blower louder than what it is. Dont get me wrong, the blower is loud but you have a hard time really hearing it over the exhaust in person.
That would be cool WannaBeFast but your blow though set up should be awsome as well!
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I'm planning on copying some of your front end design with regard to the splitter mounts/design, etc. I think it'll help me to support the front bumper better too. :)
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Soooo. Awesome.
;)
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I'm planning on copying some of your front end design with regard to the splitter mounts/design, etc. I think it'll help me to support the front bumper better too. :)
Thats cool. Just let me know if you needs some info :cheers:
Well on another note, I think I have pushed the six rib belt set up about as far as I can. Running into some pretty bad belt slip at higher rpm/load and I want to push beyond 13/14 psi (overall goal is to max the blower eventually) so its onto a 8 or 10 rib pulley set up. I am going to try running some more tension on the belt but I know thats only going to get me so far, I definetly dont want to get crazy with the tension and start knocking out bearings in the accessories.
I am curious to know the power output in its current config, might run it on the dyno one time just to see what its making. This set up would work really good with a smaller blower like a D1 or P1 on a stock motor though!
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Upgrade. I wanna see what it will do on 11.
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More progress made finally! Got my Innovators West 8 rib 10% overdrive pulley setup, a very nice product and great people to deal with. Had to change the tensioner pulley and some other small things but it turned out great in the end. Made a huge difference in boost response, now I only see about a 1/2 psi variance upon power shifting and that might be several other things going on so i'll leave it as is for now. Also started on my radiator/cooler ducting for the front end and installed my a/c condensor, im getting tired of 100*+ temps and a black, hot, car >:(.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_4/medium_4925.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4925)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_4/medium_4926.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4926)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_4/medium_4936.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4936)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_4/medium_4928.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4928)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_4/medium_4929.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4929)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_4/medium_4931.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4931)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_4/medium_4930.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4930)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_4/medium_4934.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4934)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_4/medium_4933.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4933)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_4/medium_4932.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4932)
Should have the p/s and oil cooler ducting done today and once my compressor bracket shows up I will move forward with finishing the a/c installation.
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looks stellar man!
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Is that an alien space ship?!?!?!?! :)
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Awesomeness.
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Fantastic as always.
This stupid weather has me happy my car is torn down. If it worked, I'd be trying to figure out how to run an A/C compressor on it somewhere, haha.
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Thanks guys! :cheers: We will see how well it works on the road course here soon, missed out on a local event at the race track today, kinda bummed. I seen 4 evo's, three impreza's, multiple open trailered vehicles ranging from 70's trans am's to porsche's, newer skyline, several vettes and two new GT500's, all of them were numbered and coming from the track. Kinda off topic but I was pissed off that I couldn't be out there!
Got the cooler ducting done, very pleased with how that went. I made two foam plugs for the coolers just in case since I run in the fall as well. Hopefully this ducting will bring the efficiency up a bit and It won't even notice the condensor is in there :)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_4/medium_4938.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4938)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_4/medium_4937.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4937)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_4/medium_4939.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=4939)
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Fantastic as always.
This stupid weather has me happy my car is torn down. If it worked, I'd be trying to figure out how to run an A/C compressor on it somewhere, haha.
Transmission tail shaft driven AC compressor .. Someone make this happen
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Fap fappity fap fap fap err oooooo...
I would like to see this art in person!
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Love the build...really interested in the rear spoiler and mounts...all would be appreciated
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This build looks serious!
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Every time I look at this thread and then my FC, I cry.
Serious props man. You've got one hell of a car.
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I love it!
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Dammit get this thing on video making some rear tire smoke!!!....I cant stand the wiener teaser pics any longer :'(
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best looking FC I've seen. Beautiful engine bay.
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Love the build...really interested in the rear spoiler and mounts...all would be appreciated
Not much to it really. The main air foil is from APR, I made the end plates from 3 mil Carbon fiber, the stands I made are 1/4" 6061 aluminum and the adjusters are 1/4" male left/right threaded heim joints with left/right threaded billet turn buckles, It has far more AOA than a person could use really. I made reinforcement plates out of 1/8" 4130N that are welded to the inside of the rear hatch area for strength/stability/mounting.
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Dammit get this thing on video making some rear tire smoke!!!....I cant stand the wiener teaser pics any longer :'(
LOL I will. Just trying to finish up the small things that need done before taking it to the track and really testing it out. Granted AC isn't really one of those things needed to go fast but I do enjoy driving this on the street as much as racing it and sweating my balls off at a stop light sucks.
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Thanks for the comments guys!! :cheers:
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Not really a update but it is part of something I have been working on and thought you guys might like to see it :secret:
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_4/medium_5006.JPG) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=5006)
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B-E-A-utiful.
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Any video of this at the track yet? I keep hoping for you to head up to Nebraska for a race so I can see this thing in person.
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Thanks for asking but no vids just yet, there will be some soon though!
I Had some tuning issues that I had to work through but have finally got that stuff figured out, sucks not having anybody around here to be able to go to for help :(. I Just got my other pulley from procharger to crank up the boost since I now know where I want to be at air flow wise and ordered the smaller belt for that, changed up the pulley lay out on the blower a little as well for another improvement in belt tension ( I have a problem with not leaving things alone :D) I am also building a blower brace to eliminate bracket flex, will have some pictures of that soon too.
Sometimes I think I enjoy working on it more than driving it >:( I will make sure to let you know when I finally head that direction.
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Some pics of the adjustable blower brace I built and the new strut tower brace I made this weekend. Next up will be the new intercooler/charges pipes design I came up with and a new trans crossmember :cheers:
I haven't really started working on all the things I want too since its been so nice outside but I have a feeling that will be changing soon.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_4/medium_5398.JPG) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=5398)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_4/medium_5399.JPG) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=5399)
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Looking good as usual sir.
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I want a green belt too :)
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I want some solid dyno numbers and videos immediately. You're just playing with our emotions.
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So sick.
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Haha thanks guys!
Just order whatever belt size you want from gates with a HD on the end and it will be green Wannabefast, there fleetrunner heavy duty belts.
You are correct Meffari, dyno numbers and some vids are needed :cheers:. That will be pushed off to the side for a while though, some things have changed for me and I have a window to get my car painted properly so I am going to jump on it. I have a lot of work to complete in short amount of time, removing old quarters-fitting new quarters, doing a mini-tub in the rear wheel well and fitting new front fenders. Probably a lot of other little things but not too much considering it will need to be ready to leave my shop in a couple weeks. I will be taking as many pics as I can along the way.
One big question I am trying to answer is ---- what color to paint it. I wish someone around me had photoshop and could change the color in one of my pics's.
You guys have any suggestions on colors? I am mulling over a PPG chip guide as I type lol
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I like British Racing Green on FCs, but I'm weird.
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Whatever you do pick a non-factory color with a heavy metallic to it. It helps show off the curves. Personally I keep eyeballing Ford Red Candy... Ignore this car and focus on the brights vs. shadows as it picks up the angles.
(http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4064/4294452504_3296575cf9_z.jpg?zz=1)
More:
http://www.google.com/search?q=ford+red+candy&hl=en&client=firefox-a&hs=V25&tbo=d&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=KrG-UOzjNoa50AHuvICYBg&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAA&biw=1093&bih=668 (http://www.google.com/search?q=ford+red+candy&hl=en&client=firefox-a&hs=V25&tbo=d&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=KrG-UOzjNoa50AHuvICYBg&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAA&biw=1093&bih=668)
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03 cobras - Redfire Metallic
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I retract my previous statement. Do that. That would look amazing.
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I think some sort of silver would look awesome.
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If you like green metallics, I'll be painting my CJ7 the late model Honda CRV metallic green. It's called grean tea metallic. It's awesome in person. It's rare I prefer red cars.
I've also lately become a fan of the battleship-ish gray colors and like root beer metallics.
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Keep er black
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Thanks guys, keep the ideas coming please, I really have not seen anything that makes me go "wow" yet. I do agree with that red, that is nice and the Ronnin kit should show something off like that well.
Zack - I really have been thinking about that, if I cant make up my mind I will just stick with black.
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Came across this color on a fd and thought it might look good.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_4/medium_5415.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=5415)
Its house of kolor cobalt kandy with rosetta pearl
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That car was my desktop for a while. There's a really good rolling shot somewhere. I like the color. Pearls would accent the curves well.
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Blue is good mmmkay!
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Well my portion of the body work is done. Front fenders, bumper and various pieces fitted and ready - rear quarters are done and ready for body work. Alot of work crammed into two days and I still have a few things left to have ready before sat at about noon when the car leaves for bodywork and paint.
Still dont know what color yet for sure, doing a test panel tomorrow in cyber grey metallic. The wife and I think that might be the color but want to see it in the sun first.
Sorry for the blurry cell pics, I forgot my camera but my friend had his phone!
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_4/medium_5420.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=5420)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_4/medium_5423.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=5423)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_4/medium_5422.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=5422)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_4/medium_5421.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=5421)
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I brought my camera with me tonight for some better pics. I highly recommend Ronnin's body panels, quality pieces and good fitment- without that this would not have been possible for me to acomplish in this short period of time.
Finished the small trimmings around the car tonight and massaged the quarters to clear the tires upon full compression at a lower ride height than I will ever go. I still need to spray self-etching primer on all the bare metal around the quarters and I also will be spraying bed liner inside the wheel wells for a finished look once it gets back.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_4/medium_5425.JPG) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=5425)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_4/medium_5424.JPG) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=5424)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_4/medium_5427.JPG) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=5427)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_4/medium_5426.JPG) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=5426)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_4/medium_5428.JPG) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=5428)
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Looks good, what type of panel bonding adhesive did you use on the rear quarters? Looks a lot like the SEM I use often.
It's amazing how much like a 944 Turbo the front of that car looks now, haha.
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Wow, it does look like a 944. haha. Love it. Keep it that low.
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How well does the rear quarter blender down near the bottom of the doors? It may just be how I mounted my quarters but I have a small gap that I could not seem to get rid of. Are you planning on running your undertray again? I want to get the same one but wasn't sure how well it would fit with the wider quarter panels.
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Haha thanks guys! It does kinda look like that, I started searching for some pics once you mentioned that.
The car is pretty much at the ride height that I want it at might go a little lower but not much more. The adhesive I used is 3M 8115 panel bond, same stuff used to attach bed panels, roofs and so on.
The lower edge of the quarters took some time to fit, I use a heat gun when fitting fiberglass it helps to make it a little more flexible/plyable. It had a bit of a gap until warming it up and massaging it with a rubber mallet, no gap now! :cheers: I fit the undertray but dont have any pics of it remounted, i made sure to keep that on.
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Looks awesome. I dig it. I hate the blue tho. Please don't go blue.
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Thanks and yeah I dont think I'll be going with that blue. Did a test panel today at work and I am pretty sure I am going with cyber grey metallic and will add a little extra blue pearl to it, it already has the pearl in it and its hard to see unless in direct sunlight so a little extra will just set it apart.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_4/medium_5429.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=5429)
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Nick's FD is that color, looks really good.
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I approve.
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Well while my car is getting bodywork and paint I started moving forward with a friends project.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_4/medium_5455.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=5455)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_4/medium_5456.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=5456)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_4/medium_5457.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=5457)
Engine and trans is in, starting on all the accesories and cooling system next. Need to finish the trans tunnel - had to notch it to clear the bell housing. But so far so good and it clears the stock hood! This wont be anything crazy but a nice daily driver!
I will also be posting some pics of the other swap that is coming to my shop here in a couple weeks, a 67' nova with a 5.3/4l60 swap. Should be another nice daily driver/toy.
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Nice. I always thought the 300ZX was a beautiful car. Then again, I love 1990s Nissans.
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X2 in the Z. Every time I see one(which is rare up here in Montana) it still screams sexy
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AKINA, what hood is that on the car? Beautiful car, by the way, I love it!
Jesse
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Thanks guys. That Z should be pretty cool when done.
The hood on my car is a VIS carbon hood, fits pretty well. Still debating on going with the Ronin hood for a replacement though, something different and functional. The hood on the Z is a stock hood from a donor car.
I have thought about building a real wide and low profile cowl hood for the mazda but havent had the time to experiment yet. I dont like real tall cowls but have always liked some of the 03-04 cobra replacement hood cowl designs, where they have a 2" raise but kinda step down to the flat of the hood on each side. Would like to see what that looks like on a rx7.
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If you decide to go another route hood wise please let me know. I would be interested in your carbon fiber hood.
Thanks!
Jesse
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Thanks Jesse but the hood is staying for now, its kinda getting a little custom paint on it. :cheers: Should have it back in about two weeks!
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Dang man you need to get this thing finished and to a dyno.
I have been stewing on a p1sc setup. :chug:
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Dang man you need to get this thing finished and to a dyno.
THIS!
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Thanks guys, first thing once its back and put together again I will be heading to the dyno with a camera!
Murray I really think you would enjoy a procharger on that motor. Hit me up if you need some help!
Well I got a few progress pics for you guys, let me know what you think of the color. It took me three days of mixing/playing to come up with it at work. I also made sure to do exact measurements with a print label so I can repeat it later on if need be, its all Deltron PPG products. Cell phone pics do not do it justice at all, it has a lot of metallic and large pearl in it. Doors and fenders are getting hung tomorrow so final paint begins soon! I cant wait! :cheers:
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_4/medium_5481.JPG) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=5481)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_4/medium_5482.JPG) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=5482)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_4/medium_5483.JPG) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=5483)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_4/medium_5484.JPG) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=5484)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_4/medium_5485.JPG) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=5485)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_4/medium_5486.JPG) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=5486)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_4/medium_5487.JPG) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=5487)
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Approve....
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LMAO, I was looking at the top picture going "okay, is it a gray pearl?"
Then I scrolled down. That looks great. Can't wait to see the whole car done. I wanted to change color on mine, but was honestly way too lazy to do the amount of tear down needed. I see a lot of work in those pictures.
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Awesome! Nice color!!
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Nice! So glad you went with a color. Shits going to look mean.
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Thanks guys, I am really happy with the color I made, I cant wait to see it done. This is worse than being 6 years old on christmas eve lol :cheers:
You are right Blake its a whole lotta extra work to do a color change and if I was going to paint it in my shop like last time, I would have gone black again, its way to hard to do something like this in confined space.
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loving that color!
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Well while my car is getting bodywork and paint I started moving forward with a friends project.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_4/medium_5455.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=5455)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_4/medium_5456.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=5456)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_4/medium_5457.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=5457)
Engine and trans is in, starting on all the accesories and cooling system next. Need to finish the trans tunnel - had to notch it to clear the bell housing. But so far so good and it clears the stock hood! This wont be anything crazy but a nice daily driver!
I will also be posting some pics of the other swap that is coming to my shop here in a couple weeks, a 67' nova with a 5.3/4l60 swap. Should be another nice daily driver/toy.
i need more pics and info please :)
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waiting for pics!
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Thanks guys! It will be a month or so for more pics on the Z. My friend is moving into a new house so the car was pushed to the side for a little while. I'll make sure to take some more pics as we go.
Not much for specs I guess other than we had to notch the trans tunnel a little at the top to fit the bell housing, nothing major. Its a 5.3 with a t56, it will have a/c and power steering. Aftermarket shorty corvette headers fit nicely. Stock radiator and condensor still work. Clears the stock hood and power steering rack. Using as much factory stuff as possible. I'll take some more pics for you once he upacks and gets stuff out of the garage. We are not doing this one at my shop.
I'll post some pics later of the nova and the rx7, the nova is almost done and will be leaving my shop on monday. The rx7 will done and back to me the first of the week!
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A month???? You're fired! >:(
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I only care about the 7.
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ohh yea yea i didnt read the whole thing. i only catre about the 7 as well. lol
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Haha! Thanks guys!! Here is a small update.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_4/medium_5499.JPG) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=5499)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_4/medium_5500.JPG) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=5500)
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All painted and coming home monday!! 8)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_4/medium_5577.JPG) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=5577)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_4/medium_5578.JPG) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=5578)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_4/medium_5579.JPG) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=5579)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_4/medium_5580.JPG) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=5580)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_5/medium_5581.JPG) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=5581)
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Awesome! I love what you did with the hood!
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Ohhhhhhhhhhhhhh sookie sookie now. I've got a semi.
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Nice build! Love how you went procharged.
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I am loving the color combo. I look forward to pictures of it in the sun.
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I love what you did on the hood. Very nice sir.
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No!! I really like what you did with the hood!!!! :yay:
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Wow, great color.
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Thank you guys, I am extremely happy with the way its turning out, glad you guys approve as well :cheers:.
Here is a small picture update on the RX7, its going together slowly due to lack of time right now. What takes four hours to tear down takes 4 weeks to put together lol I am also making the new intercooler/charge pipes and rocker extensions for it as well, so a lot of work ahead of me still.
I also finally loaded some of the pictures of the nova I just built for a customer, its getting paint and body work done currently.
please dont mind the bad lighting and cell phone pics :D
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_5/medium_5664.JPG) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=5664)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_5/medium_5666.JPG) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=5666)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_5/medium_5667.JPG) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=5667)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_5/medium_5665.JPG) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=5665)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_5/medium_5668.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=5668)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_5/medium_5669.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=5669)
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Did you retrofit your steering wheel? :)
Car looks baddass man!
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Looking great. That color fits the car very well.
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I'm so glad you put on the full rear fenders. It really looks great.
Compare to the waybay machine...
(http://www.norotors.com/MGalleryItem.php?id=3628)
And now just it looks like it was meant to be that way. That's one of my favorite parts of about the tri-point (now Ronin) widebody.
One tip that'll help it stay looking nice... Find and install some clear plastic guard material on the forward facing surfaces of the rear fenders. The front tires can kick up rocks that the rear will catch for you giving you quite a few rocks chips quickly if you don't protect it.
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One tip that'll help it stay looking nice... Find and install some clear plastic guard material on the forward facing surfaces of the rear fenders. The front tires can kick up rocks that the rear will catch for you giving you quite a few rocks chips quickly if you don't protect it.
One thing I was thinking, that I just realized would also help this, is to install a sill-type side skirt that extends from the outer edge of the front fender to the outer edge of the rear fender.
Something like this:
(http://www.s2ki.com/s2000/uploads/gallery/1270167017/gallery_48434_34274_2221954394bb88ec7b2aa1.jpg)
Would be great for airflow, and also any rocks will most likely hit the bottom of that rather that the rear fender. Plus, I think it would look BA
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One tip that'll help it stay looking nice... Find and install some clear plastic guard material on the forward facing surfaces of the rear fenders. The front tires can kick up rocks that the rear will catch for you giving you quite a few rocks chips quickly if you don't protect it.
One thing I was thinking, that I just realized would also help this, is to install a sill-type side skirt that extends from the outer edge of the front fender to the outer edge of the rear fender.
Something like this:
(http://www.s2ki.com/s2000/uploads/gallery/1270167017/gallery_48434_34274_2221954394bb88ec7b2aa1.jpg)
Would be great for airflow, and also any rocks will most likely hit the bottom of that rather that the rear fender. Plus, I think it would look BA
Well you hit both things on the head guys, I have a friend who is doing the front end of the car and the rear quarters with the 3M clear wrap to help protect it once assembled (I would do it but I have never wrapped a car before and when he is done you cant see it :) ). The rocker extensions I am making are from 6 mm solid core carbon fiber just like that pic shows and fiberglass extensions like the fronts of the fenders that the carbon will be bonded to. So picture the front splitter and lip just extended on the sides, if that makes sense. I am going to see what it would look like with just the carbon splitters before molding the rockers, it might look good.
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I like my rocker extensions, they aren't that fancy though, haha.
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Haha yeah you beat me to the finish lol I do like how yours came out Blake. The really nice thing is if I did them like yours and pitched the car in a sand trap at the track I wouldnt be crying as they pulled me out lol
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Well its getting there finally. Still need to do a bunch of little things but the majority of assembly is done. Next up is finishing the new intercooler and charges pipes.
I'm thinking I might not go with the rocker extensions now that i got the car on the ground, well see though, I'll mock them up out of cardboard first.
Dont mind the front bumper in these shots, it is just sitting there.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_5/medium_5689.JPG) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=5689)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_5/medium_5690.JPG) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=5690)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_5/medium_5692.JPG) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=5692)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_5/medium_5691.JPG) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=5691)
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that color is orgasmic... :popcorn:
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Perfect.
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Oooooooooooooooooo MAN! I bet that color just POPS when outside! Great job on a obviously perfect color choice :cheers: :bacon: :bacon: :bacon: :bacon:
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Oooooo... Shaved the gas door and did the mini billet version. Hadn't caught that before... I likes it.
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Aaaaaaaaaaaand there it is.
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Haha Thanks guys! I am really happy with how it looks as well, its killing me not to see it outside. Seems everytime I am at the shop its cloudy, snowing, raining or all together :'( I can't wait for decent weather again, as is everyone else most likely. If everything goes right I'll have the new intercooler built and plumbing done this weekend then its time to finish the a/c.
Thanks for the compliments! :cheers:
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Today was somewhat productive, got the end tanks for the intercooler done and got the intercooler tac'd together. Made the mounting brackets for it and figured out the new pipe routing. Started making the baffles to direct airflow, will weld those to the cooler this time. I also made a flow diverter inside the bottom tank to help distribute air flow equally through the core. Ill get a shot of that tomorrow.
This looks way better than the old one I think.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_5/medium_5710.JPG) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=5710)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_5/medium_5711.JPG) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=5711)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_5/medium_5709.JPG) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=5709)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_5/medium_5712.JPG) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=5712)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_5/medium_5714.JPG) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=5714)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_5/medium_5713.JPG) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=5713)
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:o
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That looks great, nice work!
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:'( thats amazing
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I heart this car, very nice.
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God damn this thing is sweet.
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fantastic!!!
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All I wanna do is zoom zoom in your boom boom.
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and... I'm spent
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Thanks guys! I will have completed pic's this weekend of the new system, finally got the rest of the materials. Dyno numbers will be soon!
On a side note found my right rear shock is leaking around the main shaft so i think its time to upgrade the suspension, these coilovers are 7 years old and pretty tired. I am between Stance and Fortune at the moment.
Here's a new pic of the car courtesy of a good friend.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_5/medium_5732.JPG) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=5732)
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pfff fake as hell!!!
:)
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Such a beautiful car...
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^ FOR SURE!!
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Wow... what the hell... >:(.... that is seriously a sick setup. That intercool is redic... :'(. Looking too cool bro... Can I shoot myself now?
-Shaun
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My god.
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:o
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I don't know how I've missed this thread but damn is that a badass looking car. I looked but didn't see it but what is the name of hte color? It looks very similar to my wife's Lava Orange miata.
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(http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k265/David343/Mobile%20Uploads/mother-god-meme_zps7ce94027.jpg)
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Thanks guys! The color started out as Prowler fire orange metallic but i spent a little over three evenings modifying the formula and adding pearl to come up with that color, it acts like a tri-coat but is a basecoat/clear.
The formula for it is no where near the same as stock now. Its really cool to see in person, it looks like a burnt tangerine copper in the sun. These photos are all inside which kills the copper pearl and makes the orange stand out. When i get some pics of it in the sun you'll see the color change and the metallic show. I pushed it outside and ended up stairing at it for an hour LOL
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Not much of a update but I have been having fun with it and breaking stuff in the process :D
I finally got the ducting and charge pipes finished, very pleased with the way they look and function, picked up 1-2#'s through the rpm range with the new setup. I have the largest pulley I can fit on the blower now and it makes 17#'s. Plenty of room for growth later when I choose to up the boost.
I also sheared off the idler pulley that attaches to the alternator bracket, aparently the heavy loads of the blower were enough to snap the part where the pulley bolts to clean off, it was a rather interesting evening to say the least. It came off at a rather high speed on about the 9th or 10th hard pull in rapid succesion, bounced off the retaining wall, went right in front of the car behind me and also cut the inner cv boot on the right rear axle. I just thought the belt broke but that was not the case lol.
I did some research and found out that is a weak link when putting large blowers on a f-body accessory setup, CBM performance in california makes a billet bracket that solves this issue, which is now on the car and seems to have solved that problem.
Next up finishing the a/c before it gets too hot outside and getting this thing to the dyno to see what kind of power it makes, I am figuring somewhere around 800 rwhp.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_5/medium_5928.JPG) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=5928)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_5/medium_5929.JPG) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=5929)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_5/medium_5930.JPG) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=5930)
My wife took a couple pics of my car and my friends camaro we just got done building and still working out the bugs on it.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_5/medium_5931.JPG) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=5931)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_5/medium_5932.JPG) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=5932)
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(http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/13/Facebook_like_thumb.png)
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Looks great as always. That Camaro is sweet, too.
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Nice!
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Man your engine bay Akina.............in the words of Waynes world, "schwing!!"
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It's beautiful, you should be very proud.
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This is THE best FC. Hands down.
Great work.
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Thanks guys! :cheers:
Dyno scheduled for the 19th and its a Dynojet. My guess is 802 so lets hear your guess's! :popcorn:
Just a re-cap of the engine- 347ci, 317 heads, 9.8 to 1, 17 psi, pump gas
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I'm guessing 850 rwhp / 720 rwtq.
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775 rwhp and 747 rwtq
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...
Bout tree fiddy, Bob.
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I think 800 is a pretty good guess.
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Fun to see the curve. Looks great, good luck!
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Well it was definetly one of the most fun days I have had in along time. I rented the dyno for one and a half hours, made good gains over all and learned alot. We could only make pulls in 5th gear, 4th just spun. Still not done tuning down low but made the biggest gains from 2-4800 and theres a lot left in it through out the power band but I dont feel like pushing to find the limits on straight 91 oct so meth injection is next. The blower is set to where i drive it currently with a 4.5" pulley and I can go up to a 3.85"
I also learned I need to find better cv boots and create some heat shielding for them, I melted/damaged both inner cv boots and made a nice mess all over the dyno. I didnt think the exhaust was that close to the shafts but with no airflow and high exhaust temps proved that wrong.
Made a little video for you guys and heres the the final printout.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_5/medium_5972.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=5972)
RX7 DYNO NO MUSIC 0001 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=3SDSp4VjDbk#)
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now one with no music :D , car looks great!
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Very nice numbers! Such a great car.
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One of the sickest FC's I've seen! Nice job and killer power.
Do you have issues with the front splitter coming into contact with speed bumps? I'm reluctant to put mine on for the street....
Have you had a chance to run it at the strip? mph?
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Love it as always. Need track times.
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Thanks guys! I am very pleased with the numbers but the best thing for me was the learing experience and being able to use such a nice piece of tuning equipement to learn with. Ill make sure to do some vids with no music so you can hear the car better. Rolling burnouts have there own special music.
One of the sickest FC's I've seen! Nice job and killer power.
Do you have issues with the front splitter coming into contact with speed bumps? I'm reluctant to put mine on for the street....
Have you had a chance to run it at the strip? mph?
No quarter times yet with this current setup, will do that soon though. Need to fix the current problems and get new rear tires on the car.
I have not had and issues with the front splitter, knock on wood, so i would say go for it but make sure to look out for small furry animals :cheers:
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That's a shit ton of power. Would love to have heard it without the music lol.
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Video is changed, no music now :cheers:
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Much better! Looks like SO much fun.
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WOW!! Congrats bud and that is a dyno curve I would love to own :cheers:
Can't tell ya how excited I am for you, now go out and have some fun!!!
Car is just so so so CLEAN, nice work :bacon: :bacon:
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Very nice! I wanna see u ripping some gears bat the track!
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Got some things done over the past few weeks. Cleaned up the cv boot explosion, rebuilt the cv axles, rebuilt the diff due to noise, wrapped the exhaust system, mounted new tires on the rear wheels and changed engine, blower, trans and diff oils. Hopefully this is the end of my boot problems, it gets old cleaning up that grease lol.
I also started looking back at my data logs on the dyno runs to make some more changes and noticed that peak boost was only 15.5, consistantly on each pull but lower than what i see on the street which I thought was interesting. I am gathering that this is from air temp differences due to it being almost 100*s on the dyno and little airflow versus fresh cool air on the road. Intake temps were not out of the ordinary though. I dont see any belt slip on the logs, boost is a clean consistant pull/peak on the graphs with no flat lining so this must be what it is. If someone else has thoughts on this I would like to hear them. :cheers:
I am going to make some slight changes to car but leave the same pulley on it with just a new belt and methanol injection the next time I am there. Curious to see if boost changes with just the new belt and also to see what gains will be made with just the injection.
I also got a chance to get out to a local car meet and a friend had taken a pic when I was there that I thought turned out pretty nice considering it was his phone :cheers: It does make me want to add some spacers in the rear to bring out the wheels a little
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_5/medium_5997.JPG) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=5997)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_5/medium_5998.JPG) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=5998)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_5/medium_5999.JPG) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=5999)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_5/medium_6000.JPG) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=6000)
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great as always!
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It looks outstanding.
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All day.
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man that came out great!!! and great numbers too man! happy for you
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sick build
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Thanks guys! :cheers: been out finishing the small things but I am happy to say I now have A/C! Ill have pics later today on it. It was definetely not without its trial and error since the way I did it was a little less conventional than the normal hot rod a/c routing. ill post more on that later.
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Thanks guys! :cheers: been out finishing the small things but I am happy to say I know have A/C! Ill have pics later today on it. It was definetely not without its trial and error since the way I did it was a little less conventional than the normal hot rod a/c routing. ill post more on that later.
Definitely interested to hear this... :)
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Well dont get to excited HAHA, I didnt do anything ultra cool just tried to keep it clean.
I went into this thinking I would just knock this out like it was nothing and got bit for it lol. I tried to keep all the lines and fittings hidden as much possible but yet still servicable and not have a accumulator or drier in the engine bay. I used a 2013 sportage condensor with attached drier, dimensions are 25x15x.5 including drier. You have to cut off the block style connector and weld on regular a/c fittings but other than that it works out perfectly. Very thin and has the maximum surface area for my lay out.
In the fittings department the only one i could not source from a hydraulic hose shop was the high side fitting for the transducer switch which i had to make from a junk yard grand prix a/c line and a inline crimp style r12 fitting which wasnt to bad to do, cut the one off and weld the metric fitting on. No one that I could find makes a crimp style metric high side fitting.
After getting it all together and charging the system I find out the new expansion valve I installed is bad, showed like 400 psi high and 10 psi low. Swaped that out and now it works perfect! So far zero over heating issues and after sitting in traffic and driving around down town for 30-45 mins on purpose lol in 100 plus temps nothing noted. So far I am very happy with the out come but sad it had taken me all year to get this done and now I really wont need it till next year.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_5/medium_6079.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=6079)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_5/medium_6080.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=6080)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_5/medium_6082.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=6082)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_5/medium_6081.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=6081)
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That condenser looks amazing - the integrated dryer is nice and the size is perfect.
(http://www.carid.com/images/replace/air-conditioning-heating/cnd3864.jpg)(http://admin.sgpetch.co.uk/admin/system-content/part_images/Kia/Sportage/Air_Conditioning_Condenser_Radiator_large.jpg)
How rad was it to be cruising around with AC and a blower in 100* heat?
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Thats the one! Thanks for posting that, i felt bad for not getting a pic of the condenser, figured i would later when working on the car again. I am going to get some DEI shielding for the lines to help protect them from the header/engine heat. Dont want those to melt at the track. Trying to get everything ready for my first shakedown with all the new parts on Oct 12-13, NASA event here locally. i just hope theres no big issues to contend with.
To be honest it felt really odd at first in the A/C lol but started to get used to it after a while. The best part was cruising down the interstate 80 mph and just being relaxed, really enjoying the drive, not sweating, then realising i really need to either replace or fix the logicon in the dash so I have variable fan speed, it only works on high speed. It got cold in there! But it was nice to do some data logging and not be uncomfortable in the heat.
Dont know just yet what the deal is with the fan speed, thought it was a blower resistor but i could not find anything on the blower housing that matched what oriellys sells for a replacement part. If anyone has an knowledge on that i would greatly appreciate the help. I also need a new/rebuilt logicon because not all the orange lights work on it for vent position and such but all the actual functions seem to work fine.
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Shoot me a PM on the logicon, I can fix that. :)
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Shoot me a PM on the logicon, I can fix that. :)
Can you post the info on a thread? I have the same issue
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It's not really info. I can tear it apart, redo all the cold solder joints inside, clean everything and replace any bad light bulbs. :)
It's not a terribly difficult job. I charge $40.00 + parts (generally a few dollars for bulbs) to do the work. :)
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Pm sent. Thanks Blake! That will be one more thing off my list of stuff that drives me nuts haha :cheers:
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It's not really info. I can tear it apart, redo all the cold solder joints inside, clean everything and replace any bad light bulbs. :)
It's not a terribly difficult job. I charge $40.00 + parts (generally a few dollars for bulbs) to do the work. :)
oh i see. maybe i'll get to doing it someday
for now I suppose it's not a big deal.
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Not really a update but something i am fairly proud of. I won best of show at a Import face off event. Got a couple of nice pics, a trophy and some cash from it. Had a great time and seen some cool cars, defintely going again next year.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_5/medium_6142.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=6142)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_5/medium_6143.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=6143)
Getting the car ready currently to run at a NASA event here on the 12th-13th and start finding more things to improve. Should be fun and hopefully some good vids wth my new go-pro. :cheers:
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well deserved!
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Congrats!!!
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Congratulations! Definitely deserved.
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Nice!!
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Thanks guys. Felt pretty good, never won a show award before.
But now its time to get back to what I built the car to do and start moving forward again. Getting the car corner balanced and alignment set by Jesse Prather so at least the chassis will feel good. I set the alignment and such every time I have been out with it by myself so this should be a nice change and one less thing to think about right now. I have so many new parts on the car to keep a eye on its like the first time out again lol
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Congratulations Erik! Well deserved.
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So clean.
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Thanks guys. Well i finally made it out to the track and can hardly wait to get at it next year, less working on it and more driving. Car felt great, weather was perfect and had zero mechanical issues. I had a great instructor for the weekend and discussed cage design/safety equipement for the car, should be running in TT fairly soon. Made a small vid of one of the runs with the least amount of talking in it for you guys, figured you dont want to hear us ramble on as we talked as much as we were driving. Nothing exciting to say the least and you can hear the rough light throttle tip in that I finally got sorted at the end of the weekend. I'll have some nice photos to post up here in a few days after I get them, the photographer that does NASA events is awesome. Hope you enjoy!
http://youtu.be/LT0GbJZDpqA (http://youtu.be/LT0GbJZDpqA)
and yes I am short shifting the car, purpose here was to learn and show I am capable of getting my license not to set records plus I need a proper cage
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Wow your car looks solid out there!! I'm jealous, I can't wait to hit the track with mine in 3 weeks.
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:)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_5/medium_6493.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=6493)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_5/medium_6490.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=6490)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_5/medium_6494.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=6494)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_5/medium_6491.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=6491)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_5/medium_6492.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=6492)
I hope you guys enjoy looking at these half as much as I do.
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Yep... that looks sick.
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Sexy, sexy.
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All. Fucking. Day.
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Yep... that looks sick.
QFT - so good!
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Beautiful! Very reminiscent of Russ's car. Looks like I might actually be building a new one for him!
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Thanks Bowtie! I had to search who that was, beutifull car as well! Its amazing how these cars work with the right suspension/wheels and aero, I didnt get a flying vid by myself - forgot to turn on camera - but good lord does it work!
Whats the plans for the new car? Sold the old or something wrong? :cheers:
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LOVE THE COLOR!!!
Great looking car!
An Inspiration
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The car got crashed pretty badly at Road Atlanta a few weeks ago while leading a 3hr enduro with 15 minutes left. I already have a really straight chassis with cage and Moton shocks available if Russ pulls the trigger. I'll swap everything over and ultimately buld a better car.
I know you will have an absolute blast in your car!
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pimp!
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Well I had a bad turn of events happen with the engine, cracked the #7 cylinder. I believe it was a combination of things that made this occur but mainly suspect it detonated, lifted the head - injested coolant and cracked the cylinder. Just road the edge for to long on pump gas and it finally bit me.
Everything seemed to be running great and never would have noticed had I not done my usuall walk around inspection that I do every time I start it and before I pull it back in the shop, only thing that made me realize something was wrong was the over flow can was full of water, which it never has more than just a little bit it in it.
Knowing it pushed water I was figuring the worst so I pulled the heads and found this smiling at me :(
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_5/medium_6511.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=6511)
So thus the full tear down began, engine is out and fully apart. Everything looks great and no other problems noted. Was very pleased with how the bearings looked so at least everything can be re-used if I choose to. Pistons look perfect, heads are great.
So now onto version number 3. Small list of changes haha
new gm LS3 block - full blueprint again with 1/2" head studs this time
new wiseco pistions - 9.5 -10 to 1 compression again - no overboring like last round - stock bore 4.065 with gfx rings
re-use the rods and crank
LS9 heads and gaskets - LS3 or Fast intake manifold
same camshaft
Any thoughts from those that read this are greatly appreciated, failure and build wise for the new one. Will be ordering parts in the next few days and selling old ones like my LS6 manifold, cylinder heads, rockers, head studs - things I cant re-use with the new build.
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Bummer. :(
I am considering yanking the heads on mine just to look around and check everything over since I have everything else off. Hopefully my luck holds up better.
New setup sounds STRONG(er).
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that stinks but you'll be alright. I think the ls9/ls9 are a heck of a casting.
are you going to change fuels or what are you going to do for that? E85?
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Yeah Blake if It was me I would pull them just to check everything out, you probably have no issues though. I believe my problem came from reduced cylinder wall thickness and running regular fuel, plugs never showed an issues though. I ran fresh plugs and would check them after a pull on my favorite backroad , I was surpised to find this failure. No knock registered on the data logs either.
Zack I really dont know what I want to do, meth injection or E85. I would like to go with E85 but have never ran it before and dont know exactly what kind of fuel consumtion increase I will see from it, I currently use about 5 gallons of fuel per race session - 8 sessions per weekend. Meth would be a cheaper alternative but for some reason i just dont feel real warm and fuzzy about having to count on that system.
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I hate meth injection!!!
I vote E85. You may just have to top off in between runs. At full power, e85 usually burns 20-25% more fuel.
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You honestly don't even need that much E. Even at e30 to e50 I wouldn't be one bit scared
E50 is all I run, I will probably move to an even lower E percentage to get more injector headroom and am not scared one bit
Demon is on crack too. Definitely more that 20-25% more. Any engine dyno I have seen the bsfc is always .85 area or a bit more
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You honestly don't even need that much E. Even at e30 to e50 I wouldn't be one bit scared
E50 is all I run, I will probably move to an even lower E percentage to get more injector headroom and am not scared one bit
Demon is on crack too. Definitely more that 20-25% more. Any engine dyno I have seen the bsfc is always .85 area or a bit more
I like crack.
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LOL Thanks for the info, sounds like ethanol it is then. A gallon more per session is not a big deal.
All we have around here is e85. Just need to narrow down pump and injectors, still staying with factory pcm though. Trying to find a in-tank solution to suit my hp needs, kinda tough so far. i dont want to change my tank or sump it since I already modified it with baffles and foam, works great down to 15% fuel level, that and sumping it would interfere with the rear diffuser.
Kinda Changed things up a bit after some thought on the engine build. Ordered the LSA block instead and decided to keep the upper end of the motor I already have and machine the heads for the 1/2" studs. I think that they will still suit my needs, Im not really looking to make a ton more power, just strengthen things up a bit.
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Im not really looking to make a ton more power
Whatever you need to tell yourself. ;)
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LOL I think if I keep telling my self this it will help keep me under control and the wife happy haha
Any recommendations for pump/pumps -injectors?
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I run a Magnafuel 750 (4303) and I like it fine. No issues so far. I know quite a few people with Fuelab stuff that are very happy also (though I think every Fuelab user I know has had at least one pump failure). I'm not a big multi-pump fan, personally.
I run Lucas/Delphi 120# injectors, as does BeasTT. No issues. My friend runs the 160# units on his S10 that is running 8s in the quarter, no issues there either. All of them are stainless body, low impedance and rated for pretty much any fuel you can think up (minus nitro, maybe, haha).
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Thanks Blake, forgot about fuel lab. Im thinking the 42402 intank, 565 regulator with -10 feed and -8 return, nice and clean single feed and return. I was thinking the bosch 127lb HI, direct replacment units. Thoughts?
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The 127s are a good injector. Just remember they are rated at 4bar
Don't get the 827 high z 160 injectors
I have Id 1000s. And 4303 aswell. I run them at 63psi base so they act as a 114# injector. They are at 95% DC at 7k on e50 with the power it took me to go 163. Around 1150 flywheel
Really how much power do you want? It doesn't hurt to have some overhead that is for sure
The 95lb (1000cc high z) will cover you to 800whp easy on e85. The 127 will carry you to 1000whp
If you need more than that I would be looking to a low z with driver box
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Your figures are what I was coming up with as well, figuring a bsfc 0.85 and 80% dc --- 1100-1200 crank is where ill end up. Just in case a little head room would be nice, sounds like the 127's will work fine.
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Good plan
So you know the high z bosch stay stable and linear up to 95% DC just FYI
The tune up error margin is rather crazy on E. You will be hooked if you try it once
I had a filter issue 3 years ago and it leaned out bad enough on me to be bucking and hesitating on the big end, full timing in it
Motor never got hurt. Still running strong to this day
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Thanks Zack, did not know the bosch's would be stable at 95%, gives me quite a bit more room which is nice. I really hope its as nice as everyone seems to make it out as, I know a vast majority of the other NASA members around here run it.
What filter are you running?
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Godamn 1150 flywheel. Love it.
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Ha it is easier to talk about it that way with respect to fuel
I have a mangnafuel pre and post pump filter. 100 micron stainless pre, 10 micron stainless post
I live in bumfuck and my supplier sucks. I get horrid black goo if I run straight e85 from the pump here. That is why I started running e50(mix premium with e85) and I don't have an issue anymore
I doubt you will have that issue. Bit it is something to watch for
Most the guys here have zero problems with it
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FWIW, BeasTT's post pump filter was full of black sludge also.
I will pull mine this winter to see what it looks like, but last I checked it was spotless. I do get the black goo on my injectors/valves though.
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Yeah last data log I was at 85% dc with the 80lb dekas at 4 bar = 96lb, which by that is roughly 875 chp, which is fairly close. Figuring 15-18% drivetrain loss, 725 rwhp at the dyno is about 850 chp. So you can can get fairly close by bsfc.
Sounds like I will get a bunch of extra filters and change them regularly, will need to design that into my setup for easy of service. I wonder why its developing so much varnish? Is it degrading something or is just the cleansing effect on the system? I have never run this stuff before but there has to be a solution or explination I would think?
Thank you for the feedback guys, I really do appreciate it. :cheers:
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Some say it comes from old storage tanks or whatnot. But here it was new tanks and pumps
I think it has to do with what detergents/sect some suppliers run or don't include in their E
The problems are definetly better and worse from different suppliers even in the same area
I know mixing some premium fixed my problem
The best thing I did was put a ball valve on my tank sump. I can just shut the valve and pop the filters out anytime.
But haven't had a problem lately which is nice
It was always my post pump filter that would get plugged too just like blake said
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We get the black goo on our injectors in both Talons that run e85. We relented to pulling the injectors every six months are soaking them in gas. We could have run a tank of gas through to clean it out, but it was easier to pull them and more informative to see that it was always there.
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Just read through your thread and all I can say is WOW! Excellent attention to detail and fabrication!!
Sorry to hear about the engine, but you seem to be getting it squared away. G/L
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Thanks XLR8 and yeah my winter maintenence/changes was not supposed to be a new engine but oh well, I wanted to build another one at some point and I guess that time is now. I look forward to seeing your build come together as well, beutifull car. :cheers:
On a small side note i now have pistons, crankshaft, timing set and 1/2" head studs. Block is supposed to ship tomorrow so hopefully next week i can get to work. New engine will be 416ci with 9.7-1 comp.
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I have the 42402 Fuelab pump, and as Blake mentioned, I had mine fail once due to them having the wrong O ring in it, and another time when there was a machining issue outside of their control that caused a minor leak of fuel into the electronics causing them to fail. When they failed, they didn't just peter out causing it to go lean, they just plain shut off completely. I would be able to let the car sit for 5-10min and it would refire enough to where I could limp it home.
That being said, their customer service is amazing and my car was only down for a 5-8 business days and they are VERY good at staying in contact with you. The lead engineer Rob worked with me and also has me testing stuff for them and my current pump has been going strong for the last 3k miles with absolutely no issue.
My most recent dyno run was 1050whp, which should be around 1250-1300hp at the crank. And that was on 92% ethanol, which is much higher than you'll need to run being on a bigger motor, so that pump will be tons more than you need and it has a great ability to be quiet during cruising.
Car looks amazing every time I come in here and look again!
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Thanks for the input guys, I appreciate the insight. :cheers:
Well after changing my mind on parts a bunch of times, like usual, I ended up going with the LSA block, 4" K1 crank, same K1 6.125 rods as before, 4.070 -12cc wiseco pistons, 1/2 ARP head studs, ARP main studs, LS9 bare heads, LS3 intake. Comp timing set, same camshaft.
Still debating on what valves, springs and rockers to go with. Rockers have really got me stumped this time, everyone seems to have real good luck with stockers and trunnion upgrades but since I am starting from scratch I am kinda leaning towards another comp cams setup. Thoughts?
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Another big-power LSA block, I love it! :) I'm hopeful for your K1 crank, but the huge side load the blower puts on the snout is why I spent some extra dough on my crank. LS9 heads and 1/2" studs are awesome!
I was told by quite a few reputable sources that LS3/LSA rockers with or without the trunnion upgrade are the ticket up until the really nice $2k stuff. If you're blown you don't need the ultra-high-rpm stuff, so I'd stick to the stockers.
I did do the Comp limited-travel race lifters however at Tony @ AFR's suggestion, as well as hollow-stem intake valves and the lightest stainless exhaust valves we could find to make it easier on everything when we're on the limiter.
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The stock rockers are the ticket if you keep the lift low
Is the k1 a cheap china casting? If it was me I would get the dragon slayer
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Its billet, there are two different ones just like Callies. This crank is far stronger than the stock one, so no worries there.
I am leaning towards the stock rockers more and more, I can get them for $10 per rocker which is nice - cam lift is 625 so a little on the high side but I think it should still be ok. I already have the comp short travels so were good there too. I was thinking of going with the stock hollow stem ls3 intakes and Manley ss exhaust which is fairly light and cost effective along with Brian Tooley's 660 spring kit.
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Holy baller for billet crank!! lol. Is it center counter weighted too even then?
I'd rethink the cam lift in my honest opinion though. I'd keep it down at least in the 570-580 area. Stock rockers keep good geometry till 550 then it goes away. Up over 600 they are going to be scrubbing like a mofo. Tooley would tell you the same
Don't need it anyway. My lift is only 530/540 fwiw
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I didnt have a option really, this was a deal a good friend made me because he got shafted on a previous engine build and was recouping as much of the loss as possible other wise I would not have bought this new. So got lucky- not so much baller status lol
The lift issue is why I have been debating between the two styles of rockers, the cam is what i had in the other motor and I felt It worked very well and wanted to use it in this one. So from the sounds of it I will go with the comp or crane roller setup, was thinking about the jesels but those are a little expensive and I have already met the end of my budget I alotted myself to build this engine.
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Well after a long string of problems in life and with parts I am finally moving in a forward direction again. :chug:
I ordered my LSA block in december new from Jegs and got it towards the end of the month, inspected the block and found the cylinder liner bores were way off, .060 thick on the front side of the liner and .125 on the rear. I went back and forth with Jegs and there gm supplier and finally gm directly after three blocks, all of which progressively got worse. According to gm this is acceptable. Here is a direct copy and past of the email from GM - I am not Greg BTW - that is the GM of the dealership in which we were dealing with -
Subject: LSA block case 158213
Greg , here is the information received on the LSA block 12623968
The following information applies to all LS3 LSA LS9 production and performance engine blocks and addresses the liner being off center.
0.048” is the minimum liner thickness when measured at the flange, (i.e. Deck surface) this is a production tolerance spec.
0.043” is the is the minimum liner thickness when measured at the liner body, (i.e. anywhere 1 inch lower than the deck surface) this is also a production tolerance spec.
Dealers should be urged to get actual sonic test data before warranting these blocks for this. Brand Quality will be starting auto return projects on these blocks so if warranted they will be called back for inspection, If at inspection they find the wall thickness to be with specs the dealer will be debited for the claim and have the opportunity to have the block shipped back to them at their cost.
These production specs are good for the production HP levels of the our engines, 420 - 640 hp.
If a builder is purchasing these blocks for an engine with an anticipated HP level above 640 hp or they are boosting the engine or are intending on opening the bore up over 4.065; PCC should strongly push the builder to consider an LSx block which can easily handle well over 640 hp, boosting or an over bore.
Thank You
Keith Macomber
GM PCC Consultant
An Associate of Morley Company
Email keith_macomber@gmexpert.com
PH # 866-453-4123
Fax866-842-9480
-------------------(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_5/medium_6845.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=6845)
So after all this JEGS refunded me my money - BTW Jegs customer service is terrific and I still highly recommend them, they do the best they can to help you - I went back and forth for quite a while as to what to do and decided in the end to go with the LSX block, which thankfully just arrived tuesday and is at the machine shop beginning to take shape. I know its heavier than the LSA and will require me to make adjustments on the car but in the end should prove to be a more reliable piece and be far more rebuildable if they need arrises.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_5/medium_6842.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=6842)
So hopefully I will be assembling it in about a week.
On a couple other high points I scored a 2012 ZL1 TR6060 transmission from a friend that got a take out for his hotrod. I used a core 5.3 I have at the shop and installed it in the car, modified my trans mount and transmission crossmember, modified MGW shifter assembly which turned out awesome after shortening the linkage otherwise the shifter handle would have ended up in the switch area of the console. I also measured for my driveshaft and ordered it from the driveshaft shop. I will post some pics later of the modifacations needed to make this trans and shifter work in the FC if you guys want to see them.
I also redid my gauges in carbon fiber and sent my wiper switch with logicon off to Digitalsolo for a rebuild and will hopefully have that back soon as well.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_5/medium_6841.jpeg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=6841)
So new engine is - fast 92 throttle body, LS3 intake manifold, LSX block, 4.070 wiseco pistons, 6.125 k1 rods, 4.0 k1 crank, 1/2 head studs, ls9 heads, brian tooley titanium spring kit, stock rockers, rest of valve train is comp. I also changed cams and had Steve Morris spec me one. This is still a 417ci - 6.8L
I plan on changing to a set of six bolt heads later but I already have to much invested in these heads to take a big hit and not even use them :(
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Lol awesome on the lsx
Not gonna break that, just portly even compared to the standard truck iron block
The core shift on the LSA is horrible
The lsx in times past had issues like that. How doe yours look?
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The LSX block looks great and sonic test's spot on, this is the newest design/part number so at least I can get this thing back on the road again, good lord I miss my car :'(. Yeah this weighs on my work scale 226lbs, after machine work it should be about 210 which is 100lbs heavier than the aluminum but at least i dont have to worry about killing it so easly. I built this as a toy, not a class racer.
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I don't know that I trust that Digitalsolo guy. He's shady.
I'm surprised you didn't go with something like an ERL Superdeck; I circle back to those now and then. Regardless, the LSX is a great block; apparently they have fixed the core shift that those had early on now as well, correct?
Glad to see you're turning up to "plaid" speed.
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I'm feeling the LSX as well. Looks like a heavy duty block.
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I don't know that I trust that Digitalsolo guy. He's shady.
I'm surprised you didn't go with something like an ERL Superdeck; I circle back to those now and then. Regardless, the LSX is a great block; apparently they have fixed the core shift that those had early on now as well, correct?
Glad to see you're turning up to "plaid" speed.
Haha yeah I dont know about that guy, ill have to keep a close eye on him.
Yeah core shift is not a issue with this one so I think they fixed there problem with these blocks. I debated between erl and dart for quite a while and decided this would be the most cost effective approach with what I want to do with the car. That and I decided i am going to build a purpose built fc that is pretty much a clone body wise to this one but NA- thinking aluminum 5.3/4.8 with itb's- and spec'd to be ST1 for nasa.
I really hope for "plaid" speed haha
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Makes me excited! I am glad u where picky enough to reject those LSA blocks. This will be stout mofo
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Bummer on the LSA block! I guess I got lucky with mine. I can't believe their tolerance is so crazy!
LSX is a big bitch... you're going to need a bigger blower now to make proper use of it ;)
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Thanks Zach! I am very excited about this, hard not to think about it all the time haha and there was no way I was gonna accept one of those blocks.
Yeah Jeff you got lucky on getting a good one. I really wish I would have too but like you said.....I think a new blower may be in the future. We will see how much we can get out of this one first.
Well on another note I finally finished building my rear brakes, maybe it was a good thing I had delays or otherwise I might have kept pushing this to the side.
Ended up using a stock cobra svt rear rotor, which is 11.65 diameter and kept full pad contact.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_5/medium_6851.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=6851)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_5/medium_6852.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=6852)
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On the rear brakes did you just make a bracket to relocate the caliper?
I have thought about using the Cobra rear rotors too as they don't have drum parking brakes. Any mods to the rotors needed?
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On the rear brakes did you just make a bracket to relocate the caliper?
I have thought about using the Cobra rear rotors too as they don't have drum parking brakes. Any mods to the rotors needed?
Wow you tree'd me there, I couldn't get the pics to post and had to switch to my pc.
I had to make brackets and different hardware to relocate the caliper. No mods to the rotor. Only mod was tapping the ears of the knuckle for 1/2 bolts to mount the bracket.
Also forgot to post a pic my wife had taken at the track that I thought turned out nice.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_5/medium_6843.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=6843)
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Ordered my fuel system parts- all fuelab this time, 42402 pump, 52902 fuel regulator/pump controller, 82813 filter and 83801 in tank sock, -10 feed and -8 return. Changing all the lines on the car with hard line and black braided hose this time.
Im thinking about making a whole new in tank sending unit out of aluminum versus modifying the stock one but we will see what we can do once parts arrive this week. Still have not decided 100% as to which injectors I am going with - id's or bosch.
New driveshaft will arrive this week as well and hopefully the block will be ready also.
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I am very, very pleased with my IDs so far.
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Im leaning towards the id's as well.
One other thing I have been trying to figure out how to do is tie in a flex fuel setup/sensor with the factory pcm - I am using a gen III (2002) pcm with a 3 bar operating system. I dont think there is one for this system but maybe I have missed something?
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Dsteck on the HP tuner forums might know or be able to confirm. He does a lot of flexfuel stuff for the CTS-V guys.
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Thanks, yeah I sent him a email to see what his thoughts were. I really want flex timing/fuel.
I have also been toying with the idea of changing pcm's to a newer one but dont really want to do that since I have everything set up for the 0411 pcm but right now would be the proper time to do it since the engine is all apart.
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Thanks, yeah I sent him a email to see what his thoughts were. I really want flex timing/fuel.
I have also been toying with the idea of changing pcm's to a newer one but dont really want to do that since I have everything set up for the 0411 pcm but right now would be the proper time to do it since the engine is all apart.
Yea it will be a PITA, but if his answer is no it wont work... it might be worth considering.
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I don't think you can do FlexFuel on the Gen3 PCM - there are extra 5V inputs if you wanted to use something like the Zeitronix ECA, but I don't think the tables can be mapped properly enough to work how you'd want. I would imagine your best case would be a 'breakpoint' setup where above E60 (for instance) it'll run the Ethanol setup and below that breakpoint it'll run gasoline.
I know the newer PCM's can do it, and it's a pretty good implementation.
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Spoke to steck and he suggested switching to a e40 pcm to work with what I have drivetrain wise. True flex fuel would not be a problem then.
I thought about zietronix and some other switchable alcohol content sensors as well but none give you true on the fly timing and fuel adjustment so I may be switching pcm's in the end.
I think ill get it running again first then decide as to which way I want to go. Low boost is better than no boost haha I just want to drive it again.
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Spoke to steck and he suggested switching to a e40 pcm to work with what I have drivetrain wise. True flex fuel would not be a problem then.
I thought about zietronix and some other switchable alcohol content sensors as well but none give you true on the fly timing and fuel adjustment so I may be switching pcm's in the end.
I think ill get it running again first then decide as to which way I want to go. Low boost is better than no boost haha I just want to drive it again.
I forgot about the E40! Def would work with your existing sensors. And let's be honest, you're going to want a standalone some time down the road, and any of them will work with either set of reluctor wheels :)
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Thanks Zach! I am very excited about this, hard not to think about it all the time haha and there was no way I was gonna accept one of those blocks.
Yeah Jeff you got lucky on getting a good one. I really wish I would have too but like you said.....I think a new blower may be in the future. We will see how much we can get out of this one first.
Well on another note I finally finished building my rear brakes, maybe it was a good thing I had delays or otherwise I might have kept pushing this to the side.
Ended up using a stock cobra svt rear rotor, which is 11.65 diameter and kept full pad contact.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_5/medium_6851.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=6851)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_5/medium_6852.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=6852)
this whole build is amazing! i wish i had that kit! what year are those rear rotors from?
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94-04 mustang cobra rear rotors. Make sure they are vented, those are the ones you'd want.
Any chance you be willing to pop out another set of brackets for these?
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I'd be Interested in those brackets also!
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LOF is correct on the rotors. I just usually put in 2000 mustang cobra for searching, there very common and cheap. I am going to purchase a full set of two piece rotors from full tilt boogie racing to complete the brake package and be done. Withe the FD booster I just installed these should be the final piece to the puzzle.
These brackets might be available in the near future but I need to finish speaking with a certain person before offering them.I have received several pm's about them already. I will keep you guys apprised of the situation.
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Sweet! Great job btw!
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Well now for some more parts porn! Driveshaft and fuel system parts arrived! Block will be done in the next few days and she shall be motivating on her own power again shortly!
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_5/medium_6890.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=6890)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_6/medium_6891.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=6891)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_6/medium_6892.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=6892)
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wow wow wow. love getting boxes like that
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LOF is correct on the rotors. I just usually put in 2000 mustang cobra for searching, there very common and cheap. I am going to purchase a full set of two piece rotors from full tilt boogie racing to complete the brake package and be done. Withe the FD booster I just installed these should be the final piece to the puzzle.
These brackets might be available in the near future but I need to finish speaking with a certain person before offering them.I have received several pm's about them already. I will keep you guys apprised of the situation.
Bruce's (FTBR) rotors are killer. You will like them if you have not used them already.
Also their 4 piston brake caliper piston tool is really nice for quick pad changes.
Did they do the brackets for you?
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LOF is correct on the rotors. I just usually put in 2000 mustang cobra for searching, there very common and cheap. I am going to purchase a full set of two piece rotors from full tilt boogie racing to complete the brake package and be done. Withe the FD booster I just installed these should be the final piece to the puzzle.
These brackets might be available in the near future but I need to finish speaking with a certain person before offering them.I have received several pm's about them already. I will keep you guys apprised of the situation.
Bruce's (FTBR) rotors are killer. You will like them if you have not used them already.
Also their 4 piston brake caliper piston tool is really nice for quick pad changes.
Did they do the brackets for you?
Yeah there rotors look the piece and are a good price for the set.
No he did not make them, I built the front and rear brakes myself as well as pretty much everything else on the car. Thats half the fun for me and somewhat a problem since I end building/re-building things more than I drive it haha.
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Well got a majority of the new fuel sysetm done. New sending unit/pump built and installed. New fuel tank access cover built. New hardlines ran and fuel regulator mounted. I ran out of fittings otherwise I could have finished the feed line with the new filter. Ill get pics of that this week.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_6/medium_6898.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=6898)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_6/medium_6897.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=6897)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_6/medium_6899.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=6899)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_6/medium_6900.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=6900)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_6/medium_6901.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=6901)
and ninja shot of me from my friend, im surprised a phone can take a nice pic like that when im welding!
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_6/medium_6902.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=6902)
sorry for the sideways photos, dont know why it loaded like that :(
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1 small critique...
Those crimp connectors on the fuel pump. Replace those with glue shrink ones if you can!
Looks great though, I'm jealous of your fuel tank cover!
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Nice work!! Did you just use the OEM tank access cover gasket?
For the fuel pump connectors visit a local hobby shop and get some Deans Ultra plugs for RC cars. They are a great high current connector.
They look like this:
(http://www.goodluckbuy.com/images/product_images/thumbnail_30426_1.jpg)
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+1 on WS Deans stuff. It is awesome.
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Thanks guys! I actually have those connectors for my son's Traxxis cars haha never thought about using them. I was trying to find a milspec style connector or at least a quick connector for the access cover but couldnt find a small one so i just used the original rubber grommet and some spade connectors. Not a problem to change them if you guys know of a nice 5 wire connector meant for at least 30 amps. At the very least ill go back and put some heat shrink ones on it and those connectors since I have a bag of them.
LOF - The gasket for the aluminum plate on the pump assembly is the OE gasket. The seal i used on the access cover I made is a rubber door edge gasket that is like a 1/16" thick and i also under coated the inside of the cover for sound control.
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so I just finished reading this thread and I am super impressed. Super high quality work. I now have a higher goal for my car.
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Thanks Minion.
Well i hope everyone enjoys these next pictures. I spent the last 3-1/2 days busting ass in hopes to make it to my first local NASA event this weekend but ended up not being as far ahead as I hoped. i just kept running into things that I didn't expect - parts fitment issues, parts not correct, tool issues - and i am not going to rush things or half ass them potentially damaging something.
Overall I am pretty happy with how everything is turning out though and I am definetly enjoying it. A couple more days and the build portion will be done again then its back to dialing in the tune.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_6/medium_6924.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=6924)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_6/medium_6922.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=6922)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_6/medium_6923.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=6923)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_6/medium_6925.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=6925)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_6/medium_6926.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=6926)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_6/medium_6927.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=6927)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_6/medium_6928.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=6928)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_6/medium_6929.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=6929)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_6/medium_6930.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=6930)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_6/medium_6931.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=6931)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_6/medium_6932.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=6932)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_6/medium_6933.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=6933)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_6/medium_6934.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=6934)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_6/medium_6935.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=6935)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_6/medium_6936.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=6936)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_6/medium_6937.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=6937)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_6/medium_6938.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=6938)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_6/medium_6939.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=6939)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_6/medium_6940.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=6940)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_6/medium_6941.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=6941)
A few more changes will be made to some of the fuel lines now that I have the engine back in the car, one of the main ones being the cross over line on the front of the rails, just looks odd to me now hanging over the throttle body. Still need to mount the trans cooler and run those lines. I also decided I am going to re-wrap the harness's in the bay since i have to extend and change some of the connectors for the sensors.
:cheers:
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The engine looks great and all, but we really want to know if your HVAC controls and wiper switch work!
LOL
Car looks great Erik, nice work!
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Woooo hooo engine's in the car! Go gogogogogo!
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Well I gogogo'd as best I could but couldn't quite get it finished this weekend. Should be ready to fire next weekend barring any unforseen issues.
Finished getting all the plumbing done, re-wrapped the harness and extended it for what sensors that were relocated. Flushed the fuel lines. Fab'd up a throttle cable bracket. Had to make a small relocation bracket for teh drivers side rear coil - the new FD booster gets in the way. Mounted and plumbed the trans mission cooler. Shimed and aligned all the pulleys and brackets, gotta love the gates laser align for this job.
Still need to fill all the fluids, bleed the clutch, install the exhaust and put the interior back together so Blake knows the logicon and wipers work :poke: plus give it a good bath and polish everything back up. :cheers:
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_6/medium_6957.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=6957)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_6/medium_6958.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=6958)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_6/medium_6959.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=6959)
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So clean.
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wow just wow , speachless
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Super clean for sure.
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Thanks guys!
Got it up and running, rough tune was good enough to run it in on jack stands for 20 minutes, no leaks but the new billet water pump pulley I pressed on walked right off the shaft when i whacked the throttle, by shear luck I shut it off at the same time my friend seen it come off, so no major damage done thankfully. Serp belt did jump off the ps pump and cut into the ps pump tank. Second time this has happend so I made a shield for it out of aluminum the exact shape of the tank, epoxied it to the front and painted it flat black. If it happens again it will have to go through 1/4 plate first :) Bought a new water pump and welded on the steel pulley it comes with so it wont happen again.
Car runs awesome, still breaking it in as I only got to drive it for a few hours last sunday night. New trans is fantastic, leaps and bounds above the old t56 - the t56 is crap compared to one of these, I am still in amazement as to how great it shifts. Only small problem I had with it was the vss went bad and I had to get a new sensor for it.
New fuel system works perfect other than the pump resonates really bad in the car - sounds like a blender in a 55 gallon drum - i need to take a video of how horrible it is right now. Spoke with Fuelab this week and got some ideas how to isolate it and should make a big difference since my pump and sending unit is pretty much hard mounted to the tank.
Will have some new pics this weekend! :cheers:
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Isolating will be a big deal
On a 4303 I have heard one hard mounted to the trunk on a stang and it was ridiculous how loud it was in cabin
He sat in mine and swore it had to be a different pump
You need a vbox my friend!
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Isolating will be a big deal
On a 4303 I have heard one hard mounted to the trunk on a stang and it was ridiculous how loud it was in cabin
He sat in mine and swore it had to be a different pump
You need a vbox my friend!
Definitely need to get him a box haha! Hit me up Akina.
I run the Fuelab 404 and 424 pumps (lift and pressure) with their supplied brackets/rubber sleeves and it's only slightly louder than an A1000. Not too bad. Can't hear it at all over the exhaust lol, and I've got a couple 'mufflers' in there.
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My 4303 is hung from an exhaust hangar. You can hear it in car, but only a little.
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Yeah this thing is ridiculous, you can hear it well over the exhaust and my exhaust is definitely not quite. I think you guys are right and this should take care of it. I don't expect it to be quiet but I think it shouldn't reverb in the car like it does haha
Send me a pm Jeff and ill get one, I can always use a new toy!
PS Blake, the wipers work great and everything in the logicon works but I still don't have intermediate blower speed, I am suspecting a blower resistor but I could not find it on the blower housing or at least nothing matched the part I got from oriellys. Any help there is appreciated!
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I will have to look on the resistor; it should be that, unless it's a wire elsewhere in the harness or an intermittent issue, which it shouldn't be. Glad the wipers are a-ok!
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Well some problems fixed and new ones arise. I got the resonating of the pump taken care of, cant really hear it now on low speed and its not bad at all on high, so very happy there. New problem is the fuel is heating up and will cause pressure to drop badly, reading 137* or higher at the tank and the filter when this happens.
I did install a 12x12 cooler with a 10" fan on it and have got temps to about 120* going into the tank but that is still to hot. I have been going through the process of elimination to figure this out but still haven't gotten there yet. Checked amperage draw on the pump and its right on spec, 20 amps at 60 psi, wide open. Ran the pump wide open for 30 mins and fuel temps rise about 1 to 2* with out using the cooler in the test. Relocated the fuel lines and changed out the aluminum for nylon braided insulated them with reflective sleeving.
I am going to run the car without a hood to see what happens there next but hoping someone might have a idea as to why i am getting so much heat transfer to the fuel system.
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This is still on pump gas right?
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This is still on pump gas right?
Yes sir it is. Im gonna switch to e85 here pretty soon but i would like to resolve this before hand if possible, I was just wanting to break in the motor and have the tune fairly close on gas before switching over.
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Any details on your Fortune suspension setup? How were they to work with, what info did they need.. ect? I have been casually looking at their stuff for when I need a suspension refresh.
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It is a fairly common problem on gas. Ethanol doesn't seem to be bothered by it
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How are you measuring your fuel temps?
The only thing I can think of that may not be the primary issue, but could possibly be a secondary issue is that it looks like your return is dumping fuel right on your intake filter. Maybe angle it away from the fuel filter so the fuel has time to cool in the tank? I remember this was a secondary issue for me when I returned fuel directly to my sump. That and cavitation.
Lane
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Any details on your Fortune suspension setup? How were they to work with, what info did they need.. ect? I have been casually looking at their stuff for when I need a suspension refresh.
Fortune has been great to deal with so far, I filled out there spec sheet online, explained to them what i am doing - ie all information on the car from corner weights to suspension/aero and we discussed options/recommendations. I am going with the 510 series valved for 16k/14k.
Really looking forward to it, should be a whole new car.
It is a fairly common problem on gas. Ethanol doesn't seem to be bothered by it
Thats what I was figuring as well, runs cooler and the boiling point is much higher than gas. This would probably take care of the cavitation/boiling in the pump but I would really like to find the heat issue if I can.
How are you measuring your fuel temps?
The only thing I can think of that may not be the primary issue, but could possibly be a secondary issue is that it looks like your return is dumping fuel right on your intake filter. Maybe angle it away from the fuel filter so the fuel has time to cool in the tank? I remember this was a secondary issue for me when I returned fuel directly to my sump. That and cavitation.
Lane
I am monitoring with a infrared temp gun and a temp gauge with sensor in the return line after the cooler, before the tank. I can watch the temp rise and the voltage control for the pump increase once it hits about 110-115 on the gauge, boiling point
Good eye on the return line. Ran into this before getting to drive it long enough to heat the fuel. That was a issue but i move the return line to the other end of the tank, basically extended the return line so its a good distance from the sock. What actually made me notice the problem was the pump speed changing erraticly due to the regulator trying to keep pressure inline with the airation the pump was picking up. Very sensitive speed control.
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I was eying their 510 series as well. I was going to do custom valved Bilsteins but it seems like it will be a lot of time and testing to get things where I want them... and it will end up costing more. Were you able to get a caster and camber plate up front or is it camber only?
Once I figure out my spring rates with my current BC coilovers (which are not horrible), I will be ready to move forward.
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I am monitoring with a infrared temp gun and a temp gauge with sensor in the return line after the cooler, before the tank. I can watch the temp rise and the voltage control for the pump increase once it hits about 110-115 on the gauge, boiling point
Good eye on the return line. Ran into this before getting to drive it long enough to heat the fuel. That was a issue but i move the return line to the other end of the tank, basically extended the return line so its a good distance from the sock. What actually made me notice the problem was the pump speed changing erraticly due to the regulator trying to keep pressure inline with the airation the pump was picking up. Very sensitive speed control.
Good man! That airation in the fuel will also lead to a noisier pump via cavitation if you didn't already know. It's a nightmare if you don't know what's going on. Glad you got that part sorted though :cheers:
I think your method for measuring your fuel heat is sound. I now see that you're saying the temperature of your whole tank of gas is rising which definitely is concerning. Its been a long time since I've browsed your entire thread so the next couple of questions are lazy. Do you have any lines that are close to your exhaust / headers? Did you use any heat sleeving for areas that are? Have you coated the tank in anything that's potentially insulating? Using any in-tank foam?
Lane
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I was eying their 510 series as well. I was going to do custom valved Bilsteins but it seems like it will be a lot of time and testing to get things where I want them... and it will end up costing more. Were you able to get a caster and camber plate up front or is it camber only?
Once I figure out my spring rates with my current BC coilovers (which are not horrible), I will be ready to move forward.
I got the camber plates but the cast/cam plates are not available yet for the FC.
I debated on a lot of different packages before going with these. Affordability wise there on the high side of my budget but bang for the buck there as close as your gonna get to a fully built, custom, one off suspension.
I am monitoring with a infrared temp gun and a temp gauge with sensor in the return line after the cooler, before the tank. I can watch the temp rise and the voltage control for the pump increase once it hits about 110-115 on the gauge, boiling point
Good eye on the return line. Ran into this before getting to drive it long enough to heat the fuel. That was a issue but i move the return line to the other end of the tank, basically extended the return line so its a good distance from the sock. What actually made me notice the problem was the pump speed changing erraticly due to the regulator trying to keep pressure inline with the airation the pump was picking up. Very sensitive speed control.
Good man! That airation in the fuel will also lead to a noisier pump via cavitation if you didn't already know. It's a nightmare if you don't know what's going on. Glad you got that part sorted though :cheers:
I think your method for measuring your fuel heat is sound. I now see that you're saying the temperature of your whole tank of gas is rising which definitely is concerning. Its been a long time since I've browsed your entire thread so the next couple of questions are lazy. Do you have any lines that are close to your exhaust / headers? Did you use any heat sleeving for areas that are? Have you coated the tank in anything that's potentially insulating? Using any in-tank foam?
Lane
Thanks and yeah the complete system is heating up. With the temp gun the fuel tank reads 115*, when the lines and gauge read 137*. The tank is insulated with that black material that mazda coats them with from the factory. I do have fuel media in the tank, not foam though.
My exhaust system is DEI lava wrapped except the headers/mufflers and at the closest point to the headers it is insulated with DEI sleeving - fibermatt with reflective material.
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Well after thoroughly testing everything I can, I have decided the fuel pump/system is just flowing/returning fuel so fast and its picking up heat from the rails/engine bay and there's not much I can do other than change pumps or change fuels. So onto E it is.
I have been going back and forth between the fic 2000's and the bosch 127's. The fic2000's scare me due to what type of injector they are and the issues they have considering this car doesnt get driven every day and sits pretty much all week. The 127's limit me to what kind of power I can make but is a true gas injector and would be better in my scenario I think. Thoughts?
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ID2000's or similar for sure. Won't have problems with Ethanol driving once a week, more like if you left it all summer or for a year. You'll run out of 1300cc injector pretty quick.
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I know Magnafuel recommends using a fuel cooler on the return line for street cars.
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The 127s will get u to 1k who easy enough on E. Just depends on how much u want
I am still holding out for the new id1600
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Well I just had a nice conversation with Kyle at fuel injector connection and ordered the 127's, will have them tomorrow. Kyle told me he will let me know when the 160, 180 and 200 come out later this fall and will trade me/upgrade me to the bigger ones which is awesome. This is the third set I have got from them between me and my friends, good people to deal with so far.
I think your right Zach, I was reflecting back on our earlier conversation in this thread and these should keep me happy for a while or at least till the bigger ones come out.
I agree Jeff Ill max these out quick but I sometimes let this car sit for long periods with work, so I just dont feel its worth the chance. You seem to play with yours enough and its warm year round for you so I dont think you'll ever have a issue. One day Ill move out west haha
Yeah Matt I installed a 16 row, 8 AN Derale cooler with a 10" fan on it. Dropped temps by about 20* which makes it driveable when its cooler out but in 100* temps it cant keep up and looses pressure in about a hour or so depending on ambient temp. Having the hood off does help so a bunch - about 15*- so I am going to do something there as well, maybe a Ronin hood or designing some louvers, naca ducts. Dont know yet.
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Using Lucas low impedance 120# units, we made 911 RWHP with ~20% injector left at 45 psi, on E85 on Nick's car. I have ID1300s in mine and they should cover ~900+ RWHP on E85 by my math (58 psi).
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Using Lucas low impedance 120# units, we made 911 RWHP with ~20% injector left at 45 psi, on E85 on Nick's car. I have ID1300s in mine and they should cover ~900+ RWHP on E85 by my math (58 psi).
Blake you running 58psi static?
The problem is boost - it's not the power so much as the pressure. Unless you've got an insane fuel pump that'll do 4bar base + 2bar boost, you'll need the big injectors, since you'll be lowering pressure to keep pump flow up.
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Using Lucas low impedance 120# units, we made 911 RWHP with ~20% injector left at 45 psi, on E85 on Nick's car. I have ID1300s in mine and they should cover ~900+ RWHP on E85 by my math (58 psi).
Blake you running 58psi static?
The problem is boost - it's not the power so much as the pressure. Unless you've got an insane fuel pump that'll do 4bar base + 2bar boost, you'll need the big injectors, since you'll be lowering pressure to keep pump flow up.
58 psi with 0 vacuum, then boost referenced.
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Well things are finally starting to look good for a change. Switched to e85 and fuel temps dropped, consistent 118 under cruise and 121 for a high after a long pull. I can now grab the fuel rails and filter after a drive which is impressive to me. Engine temps appear to be lower as well. Neat stuff to say the least.
One last issue to resolve so far is the regulator appears to be overly sensitive and the pressure oscillates about 4 psi under any condition and will level out for a few seconds then oscillate again. Spoke with josh at fuelab again and he is doing some research on the regulator as they changed programming on the newer regulators for this same kind of issue. Hopefully that will be the fix as I went through the wiring thinking it might be some sort of feedback and could not find anything.
So far 14 psi at 5500 and it feels like a rocket! Should be about 16-17 psi at 6500-7k.
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Congrats!
I also had troubling fuel pressure feedback issues, however mine was due to an on rail sensor. Got much better feedback at the FPR. Looks like you've got that covered.
Have you got your hood on yet? I only ask because I had problems with my FD's hood clearing a fuel filter that was mounted right over my vacuum booster exactly like you've got yours setup. Hopefully it won't be a problem with your setup.
Lane
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Yes hood is on and everything clears :cheers: The FD appears to have less clearance back at the fire wall than the FC.
On other news still awaiting information from Josh@fuelab. :poke:
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On other news still awaiting information from Josh@fuelab. :poke:
That's my dude right there, definitely buying beers next time I see him. I'm interested to see my fuel temps now, reading all this... the Infinity reads the FlexFuel sensor's frequency for ethanol content but I haven't seen a way to parse out the pulsewidth data (which is how it conveys fuel temp).
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On other news still awaiting information from Josh@fuelab. :poke:
That's my dude right there, definitely buying beers next time I see him. I'm interested to see my fuel temps now, reading all this... the Infinity reads the FlexFuel sensor's frequency for ethanol content but I haven't seen a way to parse out the pulsewidth data (which is how it conveys fuel temp).
Josh has been real good to me so far. Spoke with him again this afternoon and found the regulator I have is one of the newer ones with the current programming. So I am going to do some more testing by bypassing the cooler to see if the added resistance in the system is causing minor fluctuations in the system that the regulator is trying to compensate for. If so Josh told me to ship the regulator and cooler, if i want, to him and they will reprogram the regulator for my system. He is also going to be racing his bike's here next weekend at heartland park so I will get to meet him as I will probably be picking up my regulator from him :cheers:
I would love to see what kind of temp's you are running as I have nothing to compare it to as well. One thing I have wondered is how much the temperature varies with ethanol content, even though it doesnt really affect performance just more of curiosity sake.
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Shouldn't vary much based on ethanol content.
Just got an email from AEM confirming that my workaround for fuel temp will work, should get that going soon and see what fuel temps really are. Not really worried about when I'm on it, more worried about around town.
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Let me know what kind of temps your seeing as well once its up and running Jeff. :cheers:
Well good and bad news again. Got the regulator back from Fuelab, it works perfect and is spot on. Bad news is the fuel pump died 45 mins after putting the regulator on :( Luckily Josh from Fuelab was here racing his bikes so instead of meeting him with a running car I met him with a failed pump.
Josh pretty much new what happend to it as they had a batch of pumps that were miss machined on a sealing o-ring surface by a couple thou that allowed fuel to reach the circuit board inside and short out. He is going to get it rebuilt and back to me this week. Bum deal but I'm looking forward to getting it back as everything was working very nicely.
Heres a few new pics of the cooler, fuel temp gauge and some stuff I changed in the engine bay as I am attempting to hide and reduce things a little better.
:cheers:
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_6/medium_7015.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7015)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_6/medium_7013.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7013)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_6/medium_7017.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7017)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_6/medium_7016.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7016)
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Hey Erik, just a sanity check, but are you running compliant motor mounts? You might want to be sure you're not yanking on the fuel line return to regulator under load. There doesn't look like much slack in that line.
Love your work as always.
-Joel
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Thanks Joel.
Yeah all the mounts are prothane mounts, does move a little bit, not much. I did change that line again though, that is a pick from a couple weeks ago.
The 127lb injectors I installed are shorter than the 80lb LS1 style injectors moving the fuel rails down closer to the manifold, I had to change the line going between the fuel rails and the feed/return lines again. It has more slack now Ill take some pics this weekend after I finally wash it and finish up some of the other things i have changed. :cheers:
Just spoke with Josh @ fuelab again. He called it on the issue saturday so the pump is rebuilt, tested and shipped. Awesome service. So hopefully onto dialling in the new suspension and making it to the last 3 races this year- Hastings, KC speedway and HPT again!
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looks great man!
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Thanks Zac!
Well the fuel system seems to be sorted now, drove to KC and back today in high heat, a/c on the whole time and no problems! Fuel temps got up to 140* which did bring pump speed up a little, about .45 of a volt, slight change in pitch but barely noticeable, not bad for 5 hours of run time idling, city and highway driving. So to say the least I'm thrilled with the car right now.
Now for the down side of things haha, I am way out of injector. This shot shows a little lower than peak boost which was 16.8 at 6700 RPM and a IDC of 116% on my second pull winding it up a little harder, I am just happy it stayed at commanded lambda. So no more of that for a while :(
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_6/medium_7043.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7043)
So hopefully the new Bosch injectors come out soon. My friend that was following me said I was black tracking all the way through third and halfway through fourth from looking at the marks on the asphalt. I knew it was walking around on me but I didn't really think it was that bad haha. Either way its making some power!
I also removed the suspension and boxed it up to ship to a fellow member, I think he will be pleased as it works very well. Fortune will have my new ones to me no later than the 7th of august they say, so I am down till then :( I cant wait to get to the track again!
One other thing I am going to work on while the car is down is making baffles for the valve covers. Since I switched to a exhaust evac it pulls a little to much oil out under deep decel, not horrible but enough that I notice it when I am sitting still after a good pull. Right now its just a open -10 fitting in the valve covers.
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Ran out of 127lb injectors? Atta boy!! :yay:
Glad you didn't have a *pop*/bang moment at 114%, and hope you get some bigger ones soon. Then it's time for a smaller pulley, 16psi only 2/3rds as fun as 24psi!!!
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Ran out of 127lb injectors? Atta boy!! :yay:
Glad you didn't have a *pop*/bang moment at 114%, and hope you get some bigger ones soon. Then it's time for a smaller pulley, 16psi only 2/3rds as fun as 24psi!!!
Ha!! Yeah you and me both, could have gone bad in a hurry. What boost were you running at last?
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Ha!! Yeah you and me both, could have gone bad in a hurry. What boost were you running at last?
I was always shooting for 25psi, but I don't think my car's ever seen that much since I never rev'd it out to 7k+. Definitely been up around 20psi.
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Ha its making some power. Need some vids. Looks like pump is falling off?
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Erik - Just so you know, your current engine bay is my hero :o
Lane
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Ha its making some power. Need some vids. Looks like pump is falling off?
lol I definetely will once the new suspension is here next week. Yeah the pump cant keep up :( The next run I made It fell off to 44 psi before I shut it down. I just got done talking to Josh at fuelab again this afternoon and I am sending my pump in to them tomorrow. There upgrading it to the biggest they have which should be good enough to run these injectors up about 75psi, we will see though.
Erik - Just so you know, your current engine bay is my hero :o
Lane
Ha! Thanks Lane, hopefully it gets a little better with a few more changes I have planned. :cheers:
Well on another note I got a 97 legacy master cylinder to change out in hopes to aleviate the long pedal I recieved after changing to a FD booster. The brakes work very well but to long of a pedal for my liking, Im figuring going to a 1-1/16th master should accomplish this.
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but to long of a pedal for my liking, Im figuring going to a 1-1/16th master should accomplish this.
Oh yes, almost certainly.
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Well I got quite a bit accomplished this weekend, not done yet but getting close for this round of updates.
Recieved my new suspension from Fortune. Quality product and can't wait to test it out on the track, still need to balance and align.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_6/medium_7050.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7050)
Made some extended length adjusters for the rear coilovers through the old speaker grilles.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_6/medium_7052.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7052)
Sitting pretty close to ride height, gonna raise the fronts about a 1"
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_6/medium_7053.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7053)
New master cylinder for a 97 Legacy. Modified my cylinder brace and changed the location of the adjustment valve.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_6/medium_7051.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7051)
Changed up the intake for the blower a little, just a experiment for now. Seeing if it changes boost at all. Also finished my tower brace.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_6/medium_7054.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7054)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_6/medium_7055.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7055)
I also made baffles for the valve covers but forgot to take pics of those, nothing real special though.
Trying to figure out what seats to get next as I would like some more head room with my helmet on and with NASA they have to be FIA approved if changed from stock.
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Nice progress. I'm very interested to hear how the coilovers work. Are you running a front sway bar with the 900 lb springs up front?
I have been looking at seats as well. I looked at and sat in a Cobra Suzuka GT.. It was very nice and extremely comfortable. I'm pretty sure it will fit in the car, but have not done final measurements yet. I am also looking at Kirkey series 47, which is half the price, and I'm pretty sure I can get it mounted lower than a fiberglass or Kevlar seat.
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Fantastic work. That thing should be a weapon on the track.
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What a down right beautiful car you have created!
Great work!
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Nice progress. I'm very interested to hear how the coilovers work. Are you running a front sway bar with the 900 lb springs up front?
I have been looking at seats as well. I looked at and sat in a Cobra Suzuka GT.. It was very nice and extremely comfortable. I'm pretty sure it will fit in the car, but have not done final measurements yet. I am also looking at Kirkey series 47, which is half the price, and I'm pretty sure I can get it mounted lower than a fiberglass or Kevlar seat.
Should be interesting for sure. Yeah I am gonna run the first few sessions with the bars connected and the settings they recommended then go from there. Chris at Fortune was pretty confident in the setup so we shall see, he knows all the specs on the car now. I will be adding canards to the front so there will be a little more aero up front.
Cobra's have a really nice design, I was looking at those strongly as well. I really like the Recaro pole positions and Status Ring gt but not so sure on the dimensions yet. It does look like the Corbeau Sprints should fit also and the price is pretty good. I just wish I could sit in them before buying.
Thanks Blake/Jax! :cheers:
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Well after a lot of thought over the past few months and talking to some more shops I decided to go with Bimarco Futura's today, they are pretty much a clone of the Cobra Suzuka but far more cost effective and still FIA approved. Got them through soloperformance in MO. Should be to me in under two weeks which is perfect for installing them before the next event on sept 13th.
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Well that is good. I have been curious about those for a long time but never talked to anyone that had an opinion on them.
I think I'm going to pull the trigger on a Kirkey 47 in the next couple weeks.
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Car looks great! Did you get the swift springs from fortune?
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Car looks great! Did you get the swift springs from fortune?
Not yet, these are the regular ones. Eventually I will get the swifts but thruthfully I wanted to see how they felt with there springs and then try the swifts after getting the car dialed in. I have never run swifts so I would like to make a good comparision on my own.
Well that is good. I have been curious about those for a long time but never talked to anyone that had an opinion on them.
I think I'm going to pull the trigger on a Kirkey 47 in the next couple weeks.
A few shops I know of have installed them and think they are right on par with any of the more expensive units so I feel pretty good about them. I like the looks of them so hopefully it will work out for the best. If not there going on ebay haha.
Yeah that 47 series seat should mount reaaaaallly low when done, looking forward to seeing that installed if you do it.
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I dont think youll see a ton of difference in the springs because they are so short.
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Well I pulled a Zac this weekend haha, didnt latch my hood. Hood shattered, winshield smashed and the aero catches harpooned the sunroof but it didnt hurt anything else thankfully. Don't know how Zac's windshield lived, mine spider webbed bad,
I ordered up a new/different hood, latches, windshield and decided to get a carbon suroof replacement. Ill let the hood be a surprise and see what everyone thinks of it, still sad though, really like the old one :(
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Damn, glad I sold mine before I joined the club. Sorry to hear this Erik. :(
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Well poop :banghead:
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Oh shit that sucks! Sorry to hear it man.
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Well some good news now. New hood will be here tomorrow, winshield is getting installed tomorrow - did not think it would take a week for a new one to arrive - carbon fiber roof plug should be here next week as well. Seats finally left Germany sunday so hopefully this week I will get them as well.
A real big plus these past couple days is I got a set of the newly released bosch motorsports 1650cc/158LB@4BAR injetors from Fuel Injector Connection, Jon was nice enought to overnight them to me for saturday and swap me out for the 127's I was using. So far I'm at 20 psi/7K, 80% DC and at 74 psi fuel pressure, fuel checks to be e90 so plenty of room should I start to blend it a little. Fuel pressure is stable in the logs and the car feels awesome. Ill get some vids and pics this week.
Next race is this weekend at KC speedway so Ill get some in/on car vids with the go pro.
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Awesome man! Im looking forward to that for sure!
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damn dude!! I just saw this
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I have done it twice so feel better lol
My new addition.....
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s167/rotary1307cc/IMG_20140905_081747970_zps64bjd1ow.jpg) (http://s152.photobucket.com/user/rotary1307cc/media/IMG_20140905_081747970_zps64bjd1ow.jpg.html)
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LOL, subtle but effective.
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Thanks guys. Haha yeah I thought about something like that Zac but I am so paranoid of the new hood now i check it three times before i get in lol Hopefully I wont do that again :(
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Well had interesting weekend to say the least at KC speedway. Suspension and the car itself worked great, new coilovers are absolutely awesome and all the aero refinements and suspension/chassis tweaks worked perfect. Granted it was only 80* outside, oil never got above 210 and coolant never got above 186. I do need to finish making some plugs for the coolers as it takes a long time to warm up on track and it wont get off the thermostat on the highway. So small things to adress there. Did run into fuel starvation issues on the high load left hand banking on the speedway, never had this problem before but a full baffled tank is going to be one of the next changes.
Bad thing of the weekend is a bearing started to make noise in the blower gearbox at the end of saturday half way through my fourth session. It was low on oil which was odd as i did not see any leakage and I just change the oil before going to the event. I have a few theorys as to what happend but my thoughts are it seeped enough oil to bring the level down and running on a high bank track loaded the oil away from the slinger in the case, producing no lubrication for extened periods of time :( So had only a couple options, pack it up and go home or yank the blower and go back out. I went with option two, it was the end of the day anyways so i had plenty of time to thrash on it. Pulled the assembly, got a regular tensioner asembly and six rib belt , threw a filter on the end of the throttle body. Loaded a basic tune it and got ready for sunday.
So going in to round one I was figuring this thing would be a dog being 9.7-1 compression with cylinder heads and cam that is blower orientated, boy was I wrong. This thing still pulled great from 2-7k, huge torgue band, I was totally blown away. I forgot what it was like to be able to drive a car agressively, made me see the light again. The whole blower thing started for me with a 5.3 and a little v9 vortech which was awesome on the track and made me want more, a lot more. This thing makes more power than that little motor did with boost and is extremely useable. I feel I got to far astray from why I started down this path and why I love this car so much. I had more fun in 4 sessions than I had in over a year of events. I now know exactly what I want and what to do now and thats a really good feeling. So the blower is up for sale. Ill build another high power car later on for the street so Im not done with boost or anything :)
I'll post up some pics and videos later. :cheers:
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That's a pretty cool epiphany to have. :cheers:
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NA for the track is the way to go no doubt.
Steve
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Nice! No more tiptoeing around the track :)
Are you going to build another engine or keep the iron block? The car will really handle well pulling another 200 lbs off the front end.
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He is going to sell to me lol
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Haha wow, didn't see that coming. I, for one, can barely stand driving my car without the blower, but I will agree that it's a very different feel.
Glad you're enjoying yourself out there, and I'm interested to see what you come up with :)
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Sweet! N/A will treat you good! Any plans to slightly change your current engine set-up for improved N/A performance? :popcorn:
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Well I have a couple different plans at the moment. Right now im going to finish building the intake setup like sambergs or LOF's with the filter up front and finish pulling the parts off for the blower as it will hopefully be going to a new home soon and run my last event of the season oct 11th and 12th. Then if me and Z put together a deal for this motor ill build a aluminum rhs block 427.
If that doesnt happen I will take this motor and send the heads to wcc this winter, have them milled, cnc ported, thinner head gaskets and run it till its worn out in a few years then build it into a 427 or 441. Either motor will end up 12/1 compression with ls7 style heads and intake. I hope to do the aluminum block as the extra 100lbs from it would be nice off the front end. I am also debating on building some really nice stainless headers this winter as well as the whole exhaust. We will see how the chips fall in the end. :)
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If you're staying 427ci N/A, no need for the RHS block (assuming you're paying the huge premium for it). Good LS7 blocks will give you the heads if you need 'em, but if you're keeping the heads you've got then I'd just find a sleeved earlier LS block or a good LS7 shortblock and spend the extra money somewhere else. It'll be lighter than the RHS block as well.
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Your right on all accounts Jeff, I should have elaborated on some things. I have access to a rhs block for a good deal so that would be the reason I pick it other wise yeah the LS7 block is cheaper, lighter and easier to source. If I dont sell this engine I will keep the current heads and send them off to wcc since there already set up for the 1/2" head studs. Then run the engine till its worn out, change pistons and other components for a better setup at that time - ie ls7 stuff. The aluminum block would be very nice to have but either engine will accomplish my over all goal I think. The car handles very nicely at the moment. :cheers:
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Well a few updates from before the race and after. New hood on and sunroof on. Very pleased with the new suspension. Overall very happy with the car.
The car is now setup NA and will be changing a lot of things this fall/winter to optimize the current setup. Surge tank or fuel cell this winter, tired of having to make sure the tank is full before each round. Complete the cage, try to lighten the car up as much as possible. Possible doing a dry sump as well, accusump has not failed me thus far though.
158l fic injectors lsx f1a (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P6ocJ5nIuHI#ws)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_6/medium_7091.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7091)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_6/medium_7093.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7093)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_6/medium_7094.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7094)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_7/medium_7098.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7098)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_7/medium_7100.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7100)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_7/medium_7101.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7101)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_7/medium_7102.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7102)
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WOW that car looks good out there Erik.
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my buddy has a brand new surge tank sitting that hes trying to get rid of hit me up if intrested
this is it :http://rpmware.com/catalog/group/50898
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pm sent - looks interesting - Not quite the design I had in my head but might work. Anyone else here have some pics of there surge tanks if they have one?
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Some guys on rx7club are trying to get an internal surge tank to get made for FCs:
http://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/fuel-pump-cradle-1072037/ (http://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/fuel-pump-cradle-1072037/)
also there is stuff that radium engineering makes:
http://www.radiumauto.com/Standard-Fuel-Surge-Tanks-P515.aspx (http://www.radiumauto.com/Standard-Fuel-Surge-Tanks-P515.aspx)
http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticles/ID/3642/Radium-Engineering-Has-Released-A-New-Ground-Breaking-Fuel-Cell-Surge-Tank.aspx (http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticles/ID/3642/Radium-Engineering-Has-Released-A-New-Ground-Breaking-Fuel-Cell-Surge-Tank.aspx)
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Also contact Bowtie 7.. Charlie is doing baffled stock tanks and has had very good results. It will be cheaper and lighter than doing a surge tank.
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Nice tanks, looks like thread on the club isn't going anywhere real fast unfortunately :( I really like the idea of a in tank surge as I don't need to make a bulkhead. NASA doesn't require it - yet - but most sanctioning bodies do and it does make safety sense as well, so mine will have one.
I actually was talking to Charlie about having a tank done by him, was texting him last night - he sent me a cool pick of that green car's setup he is working on currently for ideas. The consensus was to just do a surge tank and leave the stock tank alone.
What are you guys using? I would think you have to be running into fuel starvation? I can't make it through a session without running into pressure issues at the end, as soon as i get to 80% i start seeing fluctuations on my logs/dash gauge.
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Your regulator is downstream of the fuel rail correct? I had the same fuel starvation issue with the rotary. I could only go down to about 3/4 tank. My starvation issues have actually been much improved since going to the the corvette regulator that is located upstream of the fuel rail. I have run the tank down to 1/3 without issue. It would seem that having the regulator upstream allows air bubbles to be burped out before they hit the fuel rail.
I would really like an in tank surge solution, or one of Charlie's baffled tanks. By the time I got something like a Radium surge tank setup, I could almost just go straight to a fuel cell and simplify my life, so the external setup is a little less attractive.
I do have a 2 quart custom surge tank sitting around already though, but it needs all external pumps and some mounts to be useful.
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Your regulator is downstream of the fuel rail correct? I had the same fuel starvation issue with the rotary. I could only go down to about 3/4 tank. My starvation issues have actually been much improved since going to the the corvette regulator that is located upstream of the fuel rail. I have run the tank down to 1/3 without issue. It would seem that having the regulator upstream allows air bubbles to be burped out before they hit the fuel rail.
I would really like an in tank surge solution, or one of Charlie's baffled tanks, or just go straight to a fuel cell.
the problem with the in tank surge tank is that you still need an external pump which are noisy and not as reliable...
it's not quite as nice as some of the FD solutions I've seen that have everything inside the tank.
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Your regulator is downstream of the fuel rail correct? I had the same fuel starvation issue with the rotary. I could only go down to about 3/4 tank. My starvation issues have actually been much improved since going to the the corvette regulator that is located upstream of the fuel rail. I have run the tank down to 1/3 without issue. It would seem that having the regulator upstream allows air bubbles to be burped out before they hit the fuel rail.
I would really like an in tank surge solution, or one of Charlie's baffled tanks, or just go straight to a fuel cell.
the problem with the in tank surge tank is that you still need an external pump which are noisy and not as reliable...
it's not quite as nice as some of the FD solutions I've seen that have everything inside the tank.
That is a good point.
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A 044 is plenty reliable external
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A 044 is plenty reliable external
I was trying to stay away from external pumps but yeah if I was to go this route I would run twin 44's with a 255 in the tank - i already have three of them laying around haha
I keep leaning towards just doing a ATL cell and calling it good.
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Just for visual reference, i go through almost all this fuel in one day running e85 haha - thats a 15 gallon vp barrell and two 5 gallon jugs
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_7/medium_7099.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7099)
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That's a lot of fun time.
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Nice.. With 2 drivers I go through about 32 gallons in a day of dead dinosaurs.
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You won't need more than a single 044 (or similar) for N/A, I'd run a 255lph in the tank to fill the surge and an 044 outside and call it a day. One of the Radium tanks (or similar) would work just fine as well, you're cutting your fuel consumption in half, or maybe even more than that.
Super happy you're happy dude!
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Well the more I look at surge tanks and such I think im just going to go with a ATL cell and one of these baffled in tank surge containers they have, this way I dont have to make a bulk head and have multiple pumps. I should be able to re-use what i currently have or at least just run a 044.
Finished getting the car converted to NA and prepped for next weekends race - changed out various sensors, spark plugs, changed back to a catch can from exhaust evac, cold compression test, dialed in the tune and washed her up.
I am very happy with this engine NA, looking forward big time to getting the heads done this winter and maybe a different style induction - ITB's or fast manifold. Final current tune I am at 44% DC at 58-59psi with these 181lb injectors. I would take it to the dyno to see what its really making and find a few more ponies but no sense in that until I make my changes this winter. Going to a smaller injector I would say a 80lb @ 43.5psi injector would give me enough head room for changes and keep me at 70-80%DC figuring its going to pick up another 20-30hp with heads and intake change?
This weekend will be nice to cut my fuel consumption in half :cheers:
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Well I am progressively getting things done over the winter. Finished building mounting brackets for the new seats. I had taken this pic before finishing the brackets - scalloped the side plates, put a radius on the edges and painted them flat black. Overall they turned out pretty nice and feel awesome, I only got to drive it for a day before the cold hit but I am happy so far. I sit low enough now I can swing my head around with a helmet on and not touch anything other than the seat :D the bottom of the back of the seat is on the floor, you have to install the brackets and then bolt the seat to the brackets on the sides - pain in the ass but worth it. I also installed my new wheel and quick release, all three of these I wish I had done sooner.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_7/medium_7191.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7191)
On the fuel system issues I went round in circles for quite a while and finally came up with a design I feel good about. I wanted to keep things as close to stock as I could due to the fact it raises less questions at tech and doesn't require re-certifying. I kept the stock tank, installed a walbro 255lph for a lift pump (already had them laying around) purchased a radium surge tank with pressure regulator and walbro 450lph e85 pump. Only one feed line to the engine - keeps heat under control but is still -10 so flow wont be a problem, fuel filter and surge tank are in the spare tire well next to the battery - still finishing the bulk head and seperator plate between the tank and the battery to keep it safe and per rules.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_7/medium_7190.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7190)
Removing all that stuff sure cleans up the bay a bunch, but this is just the beginning as there is quite a few changes to come.....
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_7/medium_7189.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7189)
:cheers:
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I just noticed this thread, I know you've already bought the Radium surge tank, which looks like a very nice piece, just want to make others aware of the surge tank my company just started selling. Not as fancy looking as the Radium, but a lot cheaper and includes 1 or 2 Walbro pumps. Made in the USA. Not trying to thread jack, just want to make people aware:
http://www.robbmcperformance.com/products/powersurge.html (http://www.robbmcperformance.com/products/powersurge.html)
BTW, your car looks flat out amazing!
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Got a little more done. Seats, harnesses, bulkhead and the rear portion of the fuel system is complete. Next in line new catch can, install ITB's, finish front brakes and potentially start building my new headers. I still have several other things planned beyond this but time is going to be the deciding factor as to how much of this I get done before the first round in march.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_7/medium_7211.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7211)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_7/medium_7212.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7212)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_7/medium_7213.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7213)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_7/medium_7214.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7214)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_7/medium_7215.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7215)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_7/medium_7216.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7216)
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Looking Excellent Erik!
What are you planning on doing for front brakes?
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Well at the moment I am in the planning/measuring/picking stage and don't know which way I want to go really. I am going between 14" x 1.10 thick rotors/6 piston billet superlites with 13"x 1.10 rear rotors/4 piston billet superlites OR the more cost effective/makes sense route of 13" x 1.250 front rotors / 12" x 1.0 rear rotors with just upgrading the front calipers with 4 piston forged superlites/factory rear calipers. All rotors are going to be two piece units from full tilt boogie racing as wilwood costs a fortune piecing stuff together on there rotors. http://www.wilwood.com/Calipers/CaliperListLanding.aspx (http://www.wilwood.com/Calipers/CaliperListLanding.aspx) Thoughts?
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I wish I had an FC to measure for my Wilwood stuff, that would be the most cost-effective way to get "the last brakes you'll ever need" - and I think you'd actually get to use them. If you end up looking at Wilwood stuff to do yourself let me know, I can pass along W/D+fees which helps a lot.
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Bruce's (Full Tilt Boogie Racing) rotors are excellent. Let me say that I will buy your current Cobra rear bracket/rotor setup.
If you are not having rotor issues (cracking) now I would do the 13.06X1.25 fronts and 12X1 rears. They will keep unsprung weight down and rotors will be cheaper as you consume them. The Forged Superlite calipers swallow up a .8 inch thick brake pad as well, and the calipers are $145 shipped. It is really hard to argue with that.
I don't think you will see a performance gain with the 14inch/13inch setup, but it will look amazing.
I have been really surprised and impressed at the abuse the factory rear calipers have endured. I would like something with a thicker pad that lasts a little longer, but it is nice keeping everything simple.
I did swap my front pads recently and the pad taper with the Mandeville kit has been reduced to a tolerable level, so I did just put in new pads and will hold off on making a front brake decision until these current pads wear out in another couple months.
If I end up with Wilwoods on the front I will be going with the FastBrakes brackets and rotor hats to run the Forged Superlite caliper and 13X1.25 rotor. The whole front setup should be around $1200 with pads
I have been wanting to go to a Mustang Cobra rear rotor, that should be enough for my needs with stock calipers.
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I wish I had an FC to measure for my Wilwood stuff, that would be the most cost-effective way to get "the last brakes you'll ever need" - and I think you'd actually get to use them. If you end up looking at Wilwood stuff to do yourself let me know, I can pass along W/D+fees which helps a lot.
Sent you a email Jeff. I really would like to go with the Aero6 calipers but I can't justify doubling the cost for minimal gain, hopefully you can help with this as I do love the brakes you put together.
Ash I don't have any cracking issues so thermal capacity is no a major issue right now, granted I am stepping up to a 315 front from a 295 so I will be adding more load. I do want the thicker pad as that helps in all aspects and changing to a larger rear rotor is the only way to go to a larger caliper to get more pad out back and if I do that the 14" becomes a necessity to help keep bias correct. If i stay with a 4 piston - 1.38 x2 diameter and the stock rears I attain 68/32 bias running equal pad compounds front and rear - with a 6 piston - 1.62-1.12-1.12 and stock rears i achieve 73/27% bias, now this can be moved around with more aggresive compounds as you most liely know to get back to what I have now of 70/30% with 1.42 pistons in the stock mazda calipers running a .56 CF front pad with a .67 rear, easily done. I have been spending days debating on what and where to go with this, Jeff's pricing will be a deciding factor as to how baller I get with it haha.
If going with the 4 piston superlite and FTB rotors total cost would be 1k with lines, pads and materials so really cheap IMO
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If Jeff needs an FC to measure things on let me know. Depending on timing I may be able to donate my car.
Are you running equal pads now front and rear? I have not been able to, I got hopeless rear lockup when running DTC60s all around, even when I was on stock sized rotors. I am running DTC60 and DTC30 now, and it is pretty good, but still have a little too much rear bias I need to dial out with the prop valve.
When the car had a rotary in it I was able to run the same compound all around.
If you end up going 4 pot Superlite up front let me know. I may just take the plunge with you. Might be able to save a bit on the rotors by buying in quantity if he is charging you for a modified hat. Were you planning on having FTBR do the front hats and rotors for you and making the brackets yourself?
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I have Superlite fronts and Dynalite rears, 12.76" rotor diameter. If you go with a 12" rear rotor, you may have to get creative with caliper bracket placement. The factory caliper mounting ears on the rear upright want to interfere with the ears of the new caliper. You can see the misalignment in the top pic. I shaved a bit off the caliper ears itself to make life easy.
If you guys do find a good source for custom hats and a 324mm x 30mm outer, let me know, as I'd rather not have to order proprietary rotors forever.
(http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r162/Supermatch1813/D9A837EA-653F-43C7-B5DD-507E4E3AD1EE-19766-00000B2031E57973_zps0a7a1c01.jpg)
(http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r162/Supermatch1813/13AC0E48-B190-48C4-8295-C4FA964EF254-19766-00000B204207403E_zps8256260e.jpg)
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If Jeff needs an FC to measure things on let me know. Depending on timing I may be able to donate my car.
Are you running equal pads now front and rear? I have not been able to, I got hopeless rear lockup when running DTC60s all around, even when I was on stock sized rotors. I am running DTC60 and DTC30 now, and it is pretty good, but still have a little too much rear bias I need to dial out with the prop valve.
When the car had a rotary in it I was able to run the same compound all around.
If you end up going 4 pot Superlite up front let me know. I may just take the plunge with you. Might be able to save a bit on the rotors by buying in quantity if he is charging you for a modified hat. Were you planning on having FTBR do the front hats and rotors for you and making the brackets yourself?
That would be nice if Jeff would make some brackets but as busy as he is I would be amazed if he had time for such a small project. In the end though I can make the brackets needed, so not the end of the world, his would be much nicer looking though.
I have been running currently carbotech's xp10 or 12 depending on track, so about the same as the DTC -30 and 60, but yes same compound all around.
I will make sure you know which way I am going, hopefully Jeff will hit me back soon so I can make a decision. The rotors from FTB are his off the shelf sn-95 rotors, so no custom hats needed. A person could either turn down the mazda hubs on the front, like I did, or just open up the hats on the rotors. FC - 3.06" - mustang - 2.8" IIRC, not much to remove either way. His site shows 535.00 for a pair of complete rotors, very well priced IMO. The rears to use my brackets on stock mazda rear hubs would need hub centric spacers, which I think you said wasn't a big deal so that would work as well.
I have Superlite fronts and Dynalite rears, 12.76" rotor diameter. If you go with a 12" rear rotor, you may have to get creative with caliper bracket placement. The factory caliper mounting ears on the rear upright want to interfere with the ears of the new caliper. You can see the misalignment in the top pic. I shaved a bit off the caliper ears itself to make life easy.
If you guys do find a good source for custom hats and a 324mm x 30mm outer, let me know, as I'd rather not have to order proprietary rotors forever.
(http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r162/Supermatch1813/D9A837EA-653F-43C7-B5DD-507E4E3AD1EE-19766-00000B2031E57973_zps0a7a1c01.jpg)
(http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r162/Supermatch1813/13AC0E48-B190-48C4-8295-C4FA964EF254-19766-00000B204207403E_zps8256260e.jpg)
Yeah getting creative is to say the least haha. I can't find a single or dual piston caliper from wilwood that will work with a .71 thick rotor (factory mustang) so using the dynalites are out of the question for me at least with this setup. Getting front and rear rotors set up how you want shouldn't be a issue, what rotors are you using currently? Here is a pic of the rear brackets I made for the 11.76 cobra rotors. A larger rotor would be cake to make a bracket for.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_5/medium_6851.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=6851)
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324mm x 30mm from Revolution Brake. I'm running Wilwood pedals with dual masters, 13/16 front and 7/8 rear (I think).
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That would be nice if Jeff would make some brackets but as busy as he is I would be amazed if he had time for such a small project. In the end though I can make the brackets needed, so not the end of the world, his would be much nicer looking though.
I have been running currently carbotech's xp10 or 12 depending on track, so about the same as the DTC -30 and 60, but yes same compound all around.
I will make sure you know which way I am going, hopefully Jeff will hit me back soon so I can make a decision. The rotors from FTB are his off the shelf sn-95 rotors, so no custom hats needed. A person could either turn down the mazda hubs on the front, like I did, or just open up the hats on the rotors. FC - 3.06" - mustang - 2.8" IIRC, not much to remove either way. His site shows 535.00 for a pair of complete rotors, very well priced IMO. The rears to use my brackets on stock mazda rear hubs would need hub centric spacers, which I think you said wasn't a big deal so that would work as well.
Thanks!
That is a great price for those rotors. I forgot they do their annual Christmas sale. That actually makes a lot of sense to just go Cobra rotors all around and in a pinch you could run single piece rotors if you had to. The Cobra front rotors are only an inch thick, but that should not be a huge issue. I would just machine my hubs to fit the Cobra rotor. The FastBrakes kit for the FC uses the 1.25 inch rotor rings.
For the rear I was just going to call Bruce and have him do a 2 piece rear Cobra rotor with the Rx7 hub bore in the hat.. That has been my plan for that all along.
Also, if you don't have a good tool for compressing the front brake caliper pistons, the FTBR tool is awesome for $15.
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That would be nice if Jeff would make some brackets but as busy as he is I would be amazed if he had time for such a small project. In the end though I can make the brackets needed, so not the end of the world, his would be much nicer looking though.
I have been running currently carbotech's xp10 or 12 depending on track, so about the same as the DTC -30 and 60, but yes same compound all around.
I will make sure you know which way I am going, hopefully Jeff will hit me back soon so I can make a decision. The rotors from FTB are his off the shelf sn-95 rotors, so no custom hats needed. A person could either turn down the mazda hubs on the front, like I did, or just open up the hats on the rotors. FC - 3.06" - mustang - 2.8" IIRC, not much to remove either way. His site shows 535.00 for a pair of complete rotors, very well priced IMO. The rears to use my brackets on stock mazda rear hubs would need hub centric spacers, which I think you said wasn't a big deal so that would work as well.
Thanks!
That is a great price for those rotors. I forgot they do their annual Christmas sale. That actually makes a lot of sense to just go Cobra rotors all around and in a pinch you could run single piece rotors if you had to. The Cobra front rotors are only an inch thick, but that should not be a huge issue. I would just machine my hubs to fit the Cobra rotor. The FastBrakes kit for the FC uses the 1.25 inch rotor rings.
For the rear I was just going to call Bruce and have him do a 2 piece rear Cobra rotor with the Rx7 hub bore in the hat.. That has been my plan for that all along.
Also, if you don't have a good tool for compressing the front brake caliper pistons, the FTBR tool is awesome for $15.
Yup you hit it on the head. Factory stock Cobra R front replacements are 13x1.25 which is why I use them. If FTB's rotors are not 1.25 I need to find a different unit but I think they are per the website. Having the aluminum hubs on the rear rotors opened up a little only takes a moment on the lath. But I think thats gonna be my plan is just going with the FTB two piece units all around and the willwood 4 piston fronts.
I made my own tool but his is priced right!
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324mm x 30mm from Revolution Brake. I'm running Wilwood pedals with dual masters, 13/16 front and 7/8 rear (I think).
What are the dimensions on your rear rotors/thickness? Dual masters would be nice, got any pics?
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The FTBR rotors are actually 1.11 inches thick. SN95 Cobra replacement rotors are typically 1.1 inches.
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Hmm interesting, thank you for the information. Ill have to call them to discuss the dimensions and or for a possible second option as this changes things. I was basing all my designs off the stock rotor dimensions, keeping the whole off the shelf stock parts going. All stock cobra R rotors are 1.25", from summit racing to carquest, as that is what i have used for years now, the fronts end up about the thickness their rotors start at when ready to toss. Might end up having to run wilwood rotors after all. :(
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Hmm really?
The Centric blanks for Cobras were always 1.1 inches. Centric lists the width at 1.1 inches and the diameter at 12.99. I just went to Rock Auto for a sanity check.
The 350z rotors I'm running now are 12.75 x 1.18, so the Cobra rotor is about a wash.
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324mm x 30mm from Revolution Brake. I'm running Wilwood pedals with dual masters, 13/16 front and 7/8 rear (I think).
What are the dimensions on your rear rotors/thickness? Dual masters would be nice, got any pics?
I think they're the same thickness and diameter as the fronts. I can check tomorrow.
Not a very good picture but the clearest I could find. Wilwood 6.25:1 top hung pedal assembly. I cut and welded a few Speedway mounting brackets to mount the assembly from tabs on the dash bar, and then it uses some round tube and plate to bolt to the factory holes in the firewall for the necessary support. Tilton reservoir pokes through the top of the dash where the idiot light assembly was.
If I had to do it over again, I'd buy a floor mount assembly. I was not impressed by the tolerances/overall quality of the Wilwood setup, and it was a BITCH to mount. I even had to do some grinding just to get Wilwood's own master cylinders to mount in the assembly properly ::)
(http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r162/Supermatch1813/10628618_10154646263140150_4593731758715822117_n_zpsb1615fa5.jpg)
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Hmm really?
The Centric blanks for Cobras were always 1.1 inches. Centric lists the width at 1.1 inches and the diameter at 12.99. I just went to Rock Auto for a sanity check.
The 350z rotors I'm running now are 12.75 x 1.18, so the Cobra rotor is about a wash.
Now this is interesting, going back through websites and then comparing the rotors I have on hand - one car quest rotor and the other are the Baer rotors I have been using- sites show 1.10, the ones I have measure 1.20, both measure 13". This makes me feel better about my measurements but a little confused now. I'm gathering there is enough allowance for variation in thickness in the oe caliper design that this doesn't matter. I will have to talk to wilwood and FTB next week to get some insight. If that is the case I'll just stay the path I was on.
Yeah size wise it's about a wash but being able to have a cost effective two piece rotor would be nice.
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324mm x 30mm from Revolution Brake. I'm running Wilwood pedals with dual masters, 13/16 front and 7/8 rear (I think).
What are the dimensions on your rear rotors/thickness? Dual masters would be nice, got any pics?
I think they're the same thickness and diameter as the fronts. I can check tomorrow.
Not a very good picture but the clearest I could find. Wilwood 6.25:1 top hung pedal assembly. I cut and welded a few Speedway mounting brackets to mount the assembly from tabs on the dash bar, and then it uses some round tube and plate to bolt to the factory holes in the firewall for the necessary support. Tilton reservoir pokes through the top of the dash where the idiot light assembly was.
If I had to do it over again, I'd buy a floor mount assembly. I was not impressed by the tolerances/overall quality of the Wilwood setup, and it was a BITCH to mount. I even had to do some grinding just to get Wilwood's own master cylinders to mount in the assembly properly ::)
(http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r162/Supermatch1813/10628618_10154646263140150_4593731758715822117_n_zpsb1615fa5.jpg)
Very nice. If we keep asking you enough questions we could put a build thread together for you eventually haha
Yeah if you could measure yours when you have a moment I would appreciate it.
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Had a little free time today and made my new catch can, fairly happy with how it turned out. Fits perfect and this time I added a AN bung in the bottom for a hose to attach to for draining without removing it from the vehicle.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_7/medium_7229.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7229)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_7/medium_7228.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7228)
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That looks killer Erik. Where does the smaller hose go? Valley cover?
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Thanks Ash. Yeah the third hose is for the valley cover. I use a -6 compression fitting on the valley cover tube, so -6 in the valley and -10 on the valve covers.
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Well back onto brakes - After doing more research over the past few days I think I have came up with a better package. Using a six piston front with 13" rotor - 1.62/1.12/1.12 pistons - and the factory rear mustang caliper with 13" rotor - 1.496 piston- I create a better bias front to rear, it looks better and the major plus is I retain the park brake. Rear calipers are really cheap and readily available as well. Looking at schematics and pictures online it looks like I can at the least adapt the stock mazda park brake cable as the positioning of the brake actuator is pretty close to the mazda's. This caliper is the one Im planning for the front - http://www.wilwood.com/Calipers/CaliperProd.aspx?itemno=120-6584-FS (http://www.wilwood.com/Calipers/CaliperProd.aspx?itemno=120-6584-FS) - Still planning on using FTB's rotors front and rear.
I ordered the mustang calipers and will have them this afternoon to see what is needed to make this work. If this looks like a go and wilwood says that the 1.10" thick rotor is compatible with the caliper I have chosen I will order all the parts next week and hopefully be building brakes that weekend. :cheers: If something looks off let me know or just thoughts in general about it.
Leg input in pounds: 60
Master cylinder diameter: 1.0625
Front line PSI (un boosted): 451.141
Front caliper pist dia 1: 1.62
Front caliper pist dia 2: 1.12
Front caliper pist dia 3: 1.12
Total front piston area *: 4.032
Front pad Cf: .54
Front rotor diameter: 13
Front pad radial hieght **: 2.43
Front Rotor Torque In.lbs.: 5190.737
Rear line PSI (un boosted): 451.141
Rear caliper pist dia 1: 1.496
Total rear piston area*: 1.758
Rear pad Cf: .54
Rear rotor diameter: 13
Rear pad radial height: 2.03
Rear rotor torque In. lbs.: 2348.744
Percentage of front Bias: 0.680
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Went and measured. Rear rotors are same dimensions as the front, 324x30mm (12.76 x 1.18).
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I think you are good.
The rear pads will only be .07" thicker than the FC pads. That is really the only downside (if you could call it that) of your proposed setup. If you are going to all of the work it would be nice to get a thicker rear pad, but with the parking brake provision, and ease of replacement, the Mustang caliper is a good compromise.
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Went and measured. Rear rotors are same dimensions as the front, 324x30mm (12.76 x 1.18).
Thanks Supe.
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I think you are good.
The rear pads will only be .07" thicker than the FC pads. That is really the only downside (if you could call it that) of your proposed setup. If you are going to all of the work it would be nice to get a thicker rear pad, but with the parking brake provision, and ease of replacement, the Mustang caliper is a good compromise.
Yeah the problem I was having was trying to find a rear caliper with the park brake built in that would accept a 13" rotor as the largest you can fit in the Mazda caliper is 11.67. I agree I would like more pad as well but I feel this is a good compromise too. It increases all the key areas fairly well and keeps it cost effective. We shall see how it turns out though.
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Well like I said, I will buy your current rear brake bracketry setup. Let me know what you'd like for it if you want to sell it.
Did you have to modify the rear rotor brackets at all for rotor clearance?
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Ill shoot you a pm and no modifications to the stock calipers or brackets is needed.
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Not a very good picture but the clearest I could find. Wilwood 6.25:1 top hung pedal assembly. I cut and welded a few Speedway mounting brackets to mount the assembly from tabs on the dash bar, and then it uses some round tube and plate to bolt to the factory holes in the firewall for the necessary support. Tilton reservoir pokes through the top of the dash where the idiot light assembly was.
If I had to do it over again, I'd buy a floor mount assembly. I was not impressed by the tolerances/overall quality of the Wilwood setup, and it was a BITCH to mount. I even had to do some grinding just to get Wilwood's own master cylinders to mount in the assembly properly ::)
sidebar, but as someone who also is running the reverse hung wilwood pedal setup, i totally agree and recommend just running a floor mount assy.
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Glad to hear I'm not the only one. And yours is probably more representative of most swaps, since it is much closer to the factory pedal placement. All of my pedals have been moved towards the back of the car by several inches, as my seat is pretty far back and I have midget legs.
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Glad to hear I'm not the only one. And yours is probably more representative of most swaps, since it is much closer to the factory pedal placement. All of my pedals have been moved towards the back of the car by several inches, as my seat is pretty far back and I have midget legs.
yea, i kept the gas pedal in the stock location, which there was absolutely no reason for me to try to maintain.
i just made it harder on myself by keeping that and fitting everything under the stock dash.
noone should do that lol.
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I started to look into doing a new pedal setup and may do something like that next winter, got enough changes going on now haha. I appreciate the thoughts on it.
Well after bouncing around doing research and speaking to various brake "guru's" I arrived at fairly cost effective set up going with with the billet narrow superlites - 6 pistons - and still using the stock rear calipers, front caliper pistons are sized accordingly - bias is forward by 7% from stock. 13" x 1.25 two piece fronts, 11.75" x .81 two piece rears - largest rotor capable of fitting in the stock rear caliper both width and diameter wise without maching anything, everything is wilwood btw. Still using carbotech pads, going xp12 fronts and xp10 rears this time, was running xp10's all around. In the end it cost me less than what fastbrakes charges for there kit and I got better parts. Everything should be to me friday/monday.
Ash, sending you a pm
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Nice!
Getting serious with the stopping power!
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Front brake parts arrived, rear rotor rings will arrive Thursday. Need to do the final polish on things but this basically it for the front.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_7/medium_7288.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7288)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_7/medium_7289.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7289)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_7/medium_7290.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7290)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_7/medium_7292.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7292)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_7/medium_7291.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7291)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_7/medium_7293.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7293)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_7/medium_7287.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7287)
On another highlight Phil @Spoolinperformance is building me a set of 1-7/8"s x 3" collector - stainless headers, hopefully be to me in the next 3-4 weeks, rather excited about that as he does really nice work. Debating on re-doing the whole exhaust at that time or just adapting what I have. I was thinking about building my rocker extensions and doing side exits, don't know yet.
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Awesome!
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Thanks Zac. I am enjoying your build as well.
Well the brake system is finished. Here are a few shots of the rears, you physically cant fit a bigger rotor with the factory rear calipers but doing it this way also leaves my options open should i need to go to a bigger rear rotor and use a 4 pot caliper.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_7/medium_7298.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7298)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_7/medium_7299.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7299)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_7/medium_7300.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7300)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_7/medium_7301.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7301)
So onto the next few pieces, exhaust and induction will be coming up next.
Current shot of the engine bay mainly noting the front drive changes made so far.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_7/medium_7302.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7302)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_7/medium_7303.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7303)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_7/medium_7304.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7304)
I hope some of you guys enjoy this :cheers:
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That is looking excellent Erik.
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Looks great. Can you post a list of part # that you used? Thank you
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that is looking Good!
Are you dry sump on this motor? Love that you kept a/c.
HP goals/estimate? Brakes are looking solid.
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Your thread and a few others really makes me want to try out a RX7 again, keep it up and have fun
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Erik that is one lean mean N/A fire breathing machine! Looks so dang purdy too ;) Nice job man. :cheers:
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Looks great. Can you post a list of part # that you used? Thank you
Here you go...
120-6584 RS
120-6585 RS
170-8919 x2
160-8165
160-8166
230-8008 X2
220-6413 x2
220-13125 x2
170-8589 x2
230-8390 x2
160-12285
160-12286
220-12762 x2
everything is wilwood, some machining is required :cheers:
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that is looking Good!
Are you dry sump on this motor? Love that you kept a/c.
HP goals/estimate? Brakes are looking solid.
No dry sump yet, it will be though. Still just running the improved racing baffle and accusump for now. I will add it when i pull the motor after this season to make the changes I am planning to the bottom end, trying to get some use out of the current parts. I plan on using a stock style ls7/ls9 dry sump setup with katech oil pump and Stephs or Daileys tank, should work well and cost should be reasonable, plus I plan on keeping a/c. I think I have the steering rack and cross member design figured out but we will see when the time comes.
Goal is to be 700 chp or above in the end, its currently about 550-600 chp guessing from feel. I will get real numbers on the current setup in a month or so as I have to dyno test to re-class the car for TT1.
Thank you guys for the compliments :cheers:
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I love this car. That is all.
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I hope some of you guys enjoy this :cheers:
I believe this falls into the realm of understatement. :poke:
Great work as always. I love this car too.
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I also love this car.
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I really appreciate that, thanks guys :cheers:
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Fantastic....meet you at MAM someday maybe :) Love the delete FI move (from way back actually).
Steve
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Fantastic....meet you at MAM someday maybe :) Love the delete FI move (from way back actually).
Steve
That would be great, I will be there twice this year from the looks of it.
Apr 11 - Apr 12 Gateway Motorsports Park
May 16 - May 17 Mid America Motorplex
Jun 13 - Jun 14 Hallett Summer Shootout
Jul 4 - Jul 5 Brainerd International Raceway
Aug 1 - Aug 2 Road America
Aug 15 - Aug 16 Motorsport Park Hastings
Sep 26 - Sep 27 Kansas Speedway
Oct 17 - Oct 18 Mid America Motorplex
I seriously doubt I will make RA or Brainerd but all of the others, barring any unforseen issues, I should be at!
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I seriously doubt I will make RA ...
DOOOOOOD... Elkhart is seriously the most beautiful racetrack I've ever driven on. I'd do what I could to go to that race even if you had to miss all the others.
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I seriously doubt I will make RA ...
DOOOOOOD... Elkhart is seriously the most beautiful racetrack I've ever driven on. I'd do what I could to go to that race even if you had to miss all the others.
My uncle lives 10 minutes from RA.. I can meet you there and feed you beers! We were there last summer to spectate the superbikes... boner...
Such an awesome place. Don can will probably be up for it as well..
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I seriously doubt I will make RA ...
DOOOOOOD... Elkhart is seriously the most beautiful racetrack I've ever driven on. I'd do what I could to go to that race even if you had to miss all the others.
My uncle lives 10 minutes from RA.. I can meet you there and feed you beers! We were there last summer to spectate the superbikes... boner...
Such an awesome place. Don can will probably be up for it as well..
I really want to as I have never been there before but i will have to wait and see, with my wife being an account she might not be able to go because of month end. Her and the boy enjoy the racing/traveling as much as i do. We will see though, I'll make sure to mention it if we go.
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Erik,
BIR not really worth the drive, but RA...oh my. Nothing finer.
Steve
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Subbed for future updates! GREAT BUILD :cheers:
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Erik,
BIR not really worth the drive, but RA...oh my. Nothing finer.
Steve
I seriously doubt I will make RA ...
DOOOOOOD... Elkhart is seriously the most beautiful racetrack I've ever driven on. I'd do what I could to go to that race even if you had to miss all the others.
My uncle lives 10 minutes from RA.. I can meet you there and feed you beers! We were there last summer to spectate the superbikes... boner...
Such an awesome place. Don can will probably be up for it as well..
I really want to as I have never been there before but i will have to wait and see, with my wife being an account she might not be able to go because of month end. Her and the boy enjoy the racing/traveling as much as i do. We will see though, I'll make sure to mention it if we go.
I concur with all the RA sentiments. :cheers:
1 lap in mid October with Fall colors.
http://youtu.be/cb2S1rvdslA (http://youtu.be/cb2S1rvdslA)
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I am very close to MAM, so I already marked the dates on my calendar in May. You can count on me taking plenty of pictures and video of your car on the track.
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Very nice looking track I hope to be able to run there this year, if not I will next year for sure.
Sounds good mech-head, I look forward to seeing you there!
Well I got some more things done and ran into a couple issues along the way. I received my headers from Spoolin - very nice and everything i wanted - but found out my mocal oil cooler adapter and f-body style engine mounts I built wont work with them as he built these around the Ronin/samberg style mounts. So hopefully I receive my Ronin engine mounting kit and Improved racing oil cooler adapter by the end of the week so I can get this put back together. I want to be able to do some testing locally before going to St Louis in april.
I also got the interior finished up and put back together. I took a page from LOF and got a shift-i light - very nice piece, bright and compact - finished making some of the panels in the car out of carbon, got a new starter switch for the ignition and finally received my harness pads.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_7/medium_7327.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7327)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_7/medium_7326.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7326)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_7/medium_7329.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7329)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_7/medium_7328.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7328)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_7/medium_7331.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7331)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_7/medium_7330.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7330)
So hopefully this upcoming weekend goes as planned and I can get the exhaust all finished. Another note I am going to pick up my new trailer in Omaha on Friday so I am fairly excited about that as this is my first enclosed trailer. I am going to have some work to do on that as I want to build/install a winch, tire racks and so on in it before april as well. :cheers:
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what wheel hub and wheel are you using.
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Your car is so nice it is stupid Erik. How are those Bimarco seats working out?
You are going to love the shiftlight. It has been very helpful for me.
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Looks awesome!
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Geeze that thing is nice. Just beautiful.
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what wheel hub and wheel are you using.
NRG slim hub with 2.5 quick release and Sparco R375 wheel
Your car is so nice it is stupid Erik. How are those Bimarco seats working out?
You are going to love the shiftlight. It has been very helpful for me.
Thanks Ash. The seats have been awesome so far for what little drive time I have had with them, really looking forward to using the shift light.
Thanks guys, I'm really happy with how its turned out so far, hopefully the shift light curves my want for a AIM or DASH2 instrument cluster haha
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Finally getting a move on with getting things wrapped up before the season begins. All the parts finally arrived for the mazda yesterday after weather delays :( looking forward to getting the car finished now. Picked up the new trailer which I am excited about, its my first "brand new" trailer. Its finished on the inside with wood paneling, doesn't look bad, but I am refinishing it to my liking with white aluminum paneling, raw aluminum trim and black short pile automotive carpet. Already got a winch, deep cycle battery, solar charger for the roof - mainly to maintain the battery, LED interior flat panel lights and some other odds and ends, also got the materials to build the cabinets in the front v nose area out of aluminum. Really look forward to having this at the track for the whole family.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_7/medium_7347.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7347)
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Well after lots of work this weekend I got the headers in the car finally :( The improved racing cooler adapter fit great, very happy with that. The Ronin engine mounts would have worked awesome and been perfect had my car been designed to work with them from the beginning or not trying to use these headers and my original drive train positioning together.
Got the new mounts in and ready to bolt up, realized the bolt holes were off by almost a inch, choices were modify the mounts or change the trans positioning, drive shaft length, shifter mounting.... the mounts were getting changed. Had to cut the passenger side upper mount's base plate off and relocate it forward, not a whole lot of work and pretty much cant tell anything was done, drivers side was another story. None of the drivers mount would work. After notching the frame for the #3 primary to clear, the lower engine mount portion hit the #1 primary tube. So i sectioned the lower mount and moved the mounting face forward, built a whole new upper mount that roughly looks like the Ronin, just not as nice looking with laser cut holes :'(, that is angled and notched to clear the #1 primary tube. In the end it turned out ok, just have to finish putting the car back together, change the front portion of the exhaust and weld on some v-bands. The more I look at the mount I made I think I'll take it back out and cut the holes in it to match the original Ronin one, clean it up a little more.
Still need to get the trailer ready and finish tuning the car, running out of time for the first event >:(
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_7/medium_7362.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7362)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_7/medium_7363.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7363)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_8/medium_7364.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7364)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_8/medium_7365.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7365)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_8/medium_7366.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7366)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_8/medium_7367.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7367)
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Have you corner balanced it since the supercharger install? I'd be curious how it balanced out. Gorgeous FC, BTW. Your car is top notch, I've taken notes for my build.
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Thanks turbo! I just got my own scales today actually so i will be doing full adjustments starting tomorrow as I have to put some weight in the car to make class spec. Supercharger is gone now as will be a lot of things as i finish the cage and start preping the car to run ST2/TT2. So far I detuned it a lot but still makes tons of power, hell its over 400ftlbs at 2500 rpm and runs out till 6700 but it just doesnt make the cool peak numbers everone judges haha i can literally run a track in 4th the whole way if i wanted lol and its a lot more fun racing with a larger group versus yourself and maybe one other guy.
On another note I had a great time at gateway last month, car did good and so far been working the issues out that i run into. RPM is this month on the 16/17th so im preping for that currently. Got new livery for the car that I will have installed next weekend, i think it looks good so far. Will post up some pic's later. So far this season is starting better than last!
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Here's a current bay shot....
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_8/medium_7466.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7466)
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WOW!! This car is far beyond awesome!
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No more AC?
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Condensor took a shot from a rock on the track so I just f-it and pulled the whole system, its in a box for the moment, may or may not put it back on - was worth 40lbs off the front end.
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I knew something was missing but couldn't quite put my finger on it. I guess since the s/c is gone I just thought it all looked kinda empty.
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Welcome to adding lightness! You have pulled what, 200 lbs of the front end at this point?
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yes i have and plenty more to go, sunroof soon, probably gutting interior and doors dont know how far im going to go but W2W racing is calling my name, might be time to build number 2, dont know yet but im having fun and thats what matters right!?
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I vote for build #2. This car is too nice for wheel to wheel racing.
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yes i have and plenty more to go, sunroof soon, probably gutting interior and doors dont know how far im going to go but W2W racing is calling my name, might be time to build number 2, dont know yet but im having fun and thats what matters right!?
Yea, I know what you mean. I am going to pull my sunroof next week, and I want to do a lexan rear hatch.
A solid but less than pretty shell, and a nice 5.3 swap could be made to destroy in W2W, and last forever. The lower power level would be much easier on consumables.
Next year I will probably get more serious with the time attack stuff and probably prep for W2W, as the car's setup is in the ballpark now.
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Well things have been going fairly well, car is now in a competitive zone which I am pleased about. Down side is the faster I get the more faults I find.
RPM went well, took 1st in TTU as I am still adjusting things to move down to TT2 but should have the car balanced and power reduced before the summer shoot out at Hallett next month. Getting a large amount of pad knockback and need ducting, both of which i am working on. Found better wheel bearings from SKF and got some 3" ducting to use front and rear, going to do a Z06 style rear duct in the Ronin quarter panels and run the fronts from the main opening in the front with naca style ducts on each side of the radiator. I would use the little ones on the front chin spoiler but i have my coolers taking up all that space. Should give the ducts a good amount of pressure.
I do want to give a big thanks to the Ronin crew as there parts have been great, the rear camber links i just got from them made a bigger difference than i thought they would as my old ones must have been binding up/going bad and i did not know it, the rear stability on corner exit is much better and that was all i changed back there last weekend, so thank you.
Hopefully some one will want my engine and i can build the motor i really want, big bore short stroke ls7 block based rev rocket haha but we will see, might have to just wait till winter.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_8/medium_7496.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7496)
Here is a shot of the beginning of my new decals, going to have a angled black stripe on the back of the front fenders and the roll call down the stripe, it looks pretty cool on the computer so im excited to get it on the car :)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_8/medium_7497.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7497)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_8/medium_7498.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7498)
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I hate to say it but you need to build another car to track. It's just too nice to race!
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I probably will, time will tell though. This car wasnt originally supposed to be this nice as I built it for a track toy, just kinda got out of hand Patrick haha
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I feel ya man....it gets out of hand quick. My wife always says the older your rx7 gets the nicer it becomes. Its only gonna be a matter of time before I start racing it(when time allows). Sunday drives are getting more and more mundane.
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I think you should get out and race it Murray! :cheers:
Well gradually getting the decals done, got new bearings installed and adjusted - running much tighter than i normally do per mazda spec, 2.5-3lbs pull rating. Knock back springs installed in the front calipers, brakes bled and car balanced. Still need to get the car back to the dyno and detune another 35 whp from it from 4800 to 6700rpm, hopefully only need to pull about 5* of timing but we will see, any thoughts or experience on that guys?
Heres a shot from this weekend, getting the sponsor decals printed in a matching orange vinyl as the paint to go down the stip and to put on the glass, I think its turning out great! :cheers:
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_8/medium_7507.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7507)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_8/medium_7508.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7508)
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That looks nasty, in a really positive way.
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black hammer hahahahah love it
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Wayyy to nice to road race! At least for me LOL.
I am sure it has been covered, but what front lip is that? Not the splitter (black) but the orange part-and is the bumper S4 or S5? I see the middle was cut out.
I really like it!
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I was waiting for a response on the decal haha Thanks guys.
The front lip Colt is from corksport, I had to section and extend the ends to work with the Ronin fenders, it is a S5 bumper.
:cheers:
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Wooooo!
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I was waiting for a response on the decal haha Thanks guys.
The front lip Colt is from corksport, I had to section and extend the ends to work with the Ronin fenders, it is a S5 bumper.
:cheers:
It's a replica of the odula front lip:
http://www.odula.com/page/fc3s_l_spoirer.htm (http://www.odula.com/page/fc3s_l_spoirer.htm)
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Well a little update for those checking in :cheers:
Car keeps getting better and better so far, reduced knock back issues in the brakes with just PFC springs and tightening up wheel bearings as it is very minor now and brakes feel great. Did well at Hallett, was very consistent and right at 2 sec's off the pace with the top guys which I feel is awesome for first time being there and competing with big money/well developed cars. Ill be in the fight next time there for sure.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_8/medium_7611.JPG) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7611)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_8/medium_7612.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7612)
Sold the lsx engine to a fellow member so I look forward to seeing his monster running in the near future, wont announce him as I dont know if he wants mentioned or not. So that brings us to this..... :chug:
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_8/medium_7613.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7613)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_8/medium_7614.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7614)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_8/medium_7615.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7615)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_8/medium_7616.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7616)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_8/medium_7617.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7617)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_8/medium_7618.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7618)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_8/medium_7619.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7619)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_8/medium_7620.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7620)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_8/medium_7621.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7621)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_8/medium_7622.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7622)
4" bore, ls2 block. 3.325" stroke, 6.460"rod, 12cc dome, 68cc chamber. Had a friend cnc ls3 heads this time, hollow intake and solid exhaust valves. Solid roller with shaft mounts. Still using a composite ls3 intake which I know will kill top end and probably nose over around 7500 but I want to see what it does before going to a single plane 4150 or even a fast as I am trying to achieve a very wide but high power band. Should peak around 7, nose over 7500 and could carry to 8 if needed. I know its not as cool as I wanted/talked about originally but I felt going to the ls7 top end and such would way over shoot the power level Im looking for. Plus the cost of this unit is about half of what the other would have been.
Just got it in the car this past weekend and will wire it this weekend, I am changing pcm's and harness, going to electronic throttle as I got a few add on's that will allow me to rev match, wot shift and do throttle style traction control. Moaarrr toys haha. Should be fun! :cheers:
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Yea that new engine should be adequate...
Great news on the car, I'm glad you are getting it dialed in.. I feel like I'm falling behind now :yay:
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Yea that new engine should be adequate...
Great news on the car, I'm glad you are getting it dialed in.. I feel like I'm falling behind now :yay:
Thanks Ash. Yours is looking pretty good though. I really need to keep pulling and reducing weight as you are ton lighter than me, hopefully its a lot closer now with all the stuff i have removed and changing back to a aluminum block, that lsx weighed 525lbs as a long block :( Im going to wait till winter to do the major revamp though, pretty much everything is coming out of the car and the cage is getting finished.
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Very nice looking engine! I love engine parts :D Can't wait to build my next one whenever that might be. Interesting choice on the short stroke based on what you say your goals are.
What is your cam choice and power goals? I'd say your powerband estimates are short by at least 500 rpm depending on cam selection.
I have a stock displacement ls3 with ported heads and a victor JR single plane with a 239/251@50, .625 lift, and 110+2 centers and it peaked power at 7400 rpm. Didn't take it any higher as the rotating assembly is still stock.
I think the new fast 102 with the medium or even short length runners would be a fantastic choice for your new powerplant!
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Thanks Ash. Yours is looking pretty good though. I really need to keep pulling and reducing weight as you are ton lighter than me, hopefully its a lot closer now with all the stuff i have removed and changing back to a aluminum block, that lsx weighed 525lbs as a long block :( Im going to wait till winter to do the major revamp though, pretty much everything is coming out of the car and the cage is getting finished.
The car is going to handle great after you get that extra weight off the front end. I'm pretty happy with my overall speed now and adding another 50 WHP or so to the top end will really help after I add the aero. The larger tires seem to compliment my power and weight nicely. I was overpowering the 255s before. I can wait to see your cage.
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Very nice looking engine! I love engine parts :D Can't wait to build my next one whenever that might be. Interesting choice on the short stroke based on what you say your goals are.
What is your cam choice and power goals? I'd say your powerband estimates are short by at least 500 rpm depending on cam selection.
I have a stock displacement ls3 with ported heads and a victor JR single plane with a 239/251@50, .625 lift, and 110+2 centers and it peaked power at 7400 rpm. Didn't take it any higher as the rotating assembly is still stock.
I think the new fast 102 with the medium or even short length runners would be a fantastic choice for your new powerplant!
Im glad you chimed in on this as its nice to have some insight from experience with other cam/engine packages.
I need somewhere around 500 rwhp for my class, give or take some as I have ballast to work with and my plan to remove a lot more weight from the car. My cam is actually pretty close to yours - 237/252@.050 .600/.600 111+4, ramp rate is not real aggressive either. Is yours a solid roller or hydraulic roller? With mine only being 331ci it should rpm well, albeit the stock intake will be my limiting factor as most with the stock intake peak about 7k that i have seen. I went with the shorter stroke/displacment to limit myself power wise and move the peak torque up.
My first choice intake wise is that new adjustable fast 102 but CPG says it won't be available until next year, I like the idea of playing with the runners and my electronic throttle controls. I can fit a holly single plane and 4150 throttle body with filter under my scoop so that is a thought as well but I loose the dbw which I dont want. So I figure see what it does and if I'm not happy make adjustments from there.
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The car is going to handle great after you get that extra weight off the front end. I'm pretty happy with my overall speed now and adding another 50 WHP or so to the top end will really help after I add the aero. The larger tires seem to compliment my power and weight nicely. I was overpowering the 255s before. I can wait to see your cage.
Im excited to see what it feels like again as I have had that weight up front for so long, should be a fairly drastic change i think with how far the car has come.
I bet those new tires really changed the car, aero will be just as big of a jump. I'm planning on changing rear wings and going a little bigger as well as tying into the cage/frame this time plus going bigger on the front splitter as well as tying that into the front edge of the fenders. Should make a decent improvement in aero.
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Very nice looking engine! I love engine parts :D Can't wait to build my next one whenever that might be. Interesting choice on the short stroke based on what you say your goals are.
What is your cam choice and power goals? I'd say your powerband estimates are short by at least 500 rpm depending on cam selection.
I have a stock displacement ls3 with ported heads and a victor JR single plane with a 239/251@50, .625 lift, and 110+2 centers and it peaked power at 7400 rpm. Didn't take it any higher as the rotating assembly is still stock.
I think the new fast 102 with the medium or even short length runners would be a fantastic choice for your new powerplant!
Im glad you chimed in on this as its nice to have some insight from experience with other cam/engine packages.
I need somewhere around 500 rwhp for my class, give or take some as I have ballast to work with and my plan to remove a lot more weight from the car. My cam is actually pretty close to yours - 237/252@.050 .600/.600 111+4, ramp rate is not real aggressive either. Is yours a solid roller or hydraulic roller? With mine only being 331ci it should rpm well, albeit the stock intake will be my limiting factor as most with the stock intake peak about 7k that i have seen. I went with the shorter stroke/displacment to limit myself power wise and move the peak torque up.
My first choice intake wise is that new adjustable fast 102 but CPG says it won't be available until next year, I like the idea of playing with the runners and my electronic throttle controls. I can fit a holly single plane and 4150 throttle body with filter under my scoop so that is a thought as well but I loose the dbw which I dont want. So I figure see what it does and if I'm not happy make adjustments from there.
The cam is a comp hydraulic roller. They're not super aggressive lobes either. The lobes are the older LSR family. It would be absurd fun with a 6 speed in a street car.
I think you should be able to make 500whp no problem with a good intake on it. The stock intake may hold you back a little. I made 528whp through an auto with a high stall converter (although only about 3-4% slip), mufflers, and with a throttle stop under the carb that I know robs a little power from restriction.
What compression will you be running? My engine is only 10.4:1.
This is a very cool combination. I am tire limited on my drag car and we really want to build a de-stroked ls7 for it for the same reasons. 4.125 bore with a stock 3.625" stroke crank. Don't want any more torque in the car, but want another 100ish horsepower out of it. Would only gain about 11 cubes from a stock displacement ls3.
Being a 331 it's going to want the rpm's with that much cylinder head on top. I think it will make good power, but essentially be clipped on the top as you run into airflow restriction. Power should hold flat until it starts to fall off at higher rpm. Not necessarily a bad thing! When you can get a short runner intake on there it'll really scream! Should be a blast!! You're going to love it.
A good set of custom headers tuned for your powerband would be the next thing I'd look at.
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Very nice looking engine! I love engine parts :D Can't wait to build my next one whenever that might be. Interesting choice on the short stroke based on what you say your goals are.
What is your cam choice and power goals? I'd say your powerband estimates are short by at least 500 rpm depending on cam selection.
I have a stock displacement ls3 with ported heads and a victor JR single plane with a 239/251@50, .625 lift, and 110+2 centers and it peaked power at 7400 rpm. Didn't take it any higher as the rotating assembly is still stock.
I think the new fast 102 with the medium or even short length runners would be a fantastic choice for your new powerplant!
Im glad you chimed in on this as its nice to have some insight from experience with other cam/engine packages.
I need somewhere around 500 rwhp for my class, give or take some as I have ballast to work with and my plan to remove a lot more weight from the car. My cam is actually pretty close to yours - 237/252@.050 .600/.600 111+4, ramp rate is not real aggressive either. Is yours a solid roller or hydraulic roller? With mine only being 331ci it should rpm well, albeit the stock intake will be my limiting factor as most with the stock intake peak about 7k that i have seen. I went with the shorter stroke/displacment to limit myself power wise and move the peak torque up.
My first choice intake wise is that new adjustable fast 102 but CPG says it won't be available until next year, I like the idea of playing with the runners and my electronic throttle controls. I can fit a holly single plane and 4150 throttle body with filter under my scoop so that is a thought as well but I loose the dbw which I dont want. So I figure see what it does and if I'm not happy make adjustments from there.
The cam is a comp hydraulic roller. They're not super aggressive lobes either. The lobes are the older LSR family. It would be absurd fun with a 6 speed in a street car.
I think you should be able to make 500whp no problem with a good intake on it. The stock intake may hold you back a little. I made 528whp through an auto with a high stall converter (although only about 3-4% slip), mufflers, and with a throttle stop under the carb that I know robs a little power from restriction.
What compression will you be running? My engine is only 10.4:1.
This is a very cool combination. I am tire limited on my drag car and we really want to build a de-stroked ls7 for it for the same reasons. 4.125 bore with a stock 3.625" stroke crank. Don't want any more torque in the car, but want another 100ish horsepower out of it. Would only gain about 11 cubes from a stock displacement ls3.
Being a 331 it's going to want the rpm's with that much cylinder head on top. I think it will make good power, but essentially be clipped on the top as you run into airflow restriction. Power should hold flat until it starts to fall off at higher rpm. Not necessarily a bad thing! When you can get a short runner intake on there it'll really scream! Should be a blast!! You're going to love it.
A good set of custom headers tuned for your powerband would be the next thing I'd look at.
I originally wanted to go ls7 block/heads and the same 3.375 stroke i have in this one but figured I would end up like 600+hp and just put myself back into the unlimited class, which i did not want. I hope you build it so I can see what it makes haha.
Your current engine is revving pretty good for a hydraulic setup, i am impressed it peaked that high not being a solid roller. What top end do you have if I may ask?
This motor on paper ends up almost 13-1, figured I would make use of the E90 we have around here as thats what i have been running for a few years now under boost with great luck. I am really hoping that it does have a nice fat and flat curve up top as I am trying to not make it peaky. I hope to have it running this weekend, fingers crossed i don't get pulled away from it again.
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Yeah it's got the ceramic ball lifters from the CTS-V road race program, good pushrods, comp dual springs, and mega heavy manley SS valves. The heads are L92 castings CNC ported by Lingenfelter that Nick helped me get the hookup on. The intake is port a matched Victor JR with a Holley 750.
I'm trying to track down the dyno sheet and I can't find it in my email. Edit - found it :D The chip is set at 7400 on this pull. Would love to know what the curve looks like out to 7700 or so.
http://i.imgur.com/vSUHW0Q.png (http://i.imgur.com/vSUHW0Q.png)
(http://i.imgur.com/vSUHW0Q.png)
I've gone 10.29@130.25 in a 3200 pound malibu wagon, so it's making some steam!
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I think you need ITB's lol. Would allow you to run a properly sized horn to "detune" and allow it to carry higher. Midrange would be fantastic with that motor.
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I think you need ITB's lol. Would allow you to run a properly sized horn to "detune" and allow it to carry higher. Midrange would be fantastic with that motor.
Haha yeah that would be cool and has crossed my mind as I sold the ITB setup i had which was the inglese setup, reason being for the electronics toys i wanted and the inglese is cable only. I have been looking at the harrop setup as its dbw but damn 4k is a lot of money for that.
Here is a small update as i did some more wiring last night.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_8/medium_7629.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7629)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_8/medium_7630.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7630)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_8/medium_7631.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7631)
next up to finish the interior connections and loom the entire harness
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So far things are going good with the new motor. It is installed and running, just a rough tune for now as Ill dial it in later this week when i have a chance. Have a few odds and ends to finish up before the next race as well.
Video doesn't do it justice as it seems to blow out my phone, just sounds muffled. Idles at 1000 and has some serious lope to it, whole car shifts side to side haha, responds to throttle extremely quickly. So far its exactly what i wanted. i'll get some vids of it after i get it dialed in.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_8/medium_7653.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7653)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_8/medium_7654.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7654)
IDLE VID https://youtu.be/Rx53cgeOpMY
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Yayyyyyyy :D
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Giggidy!!!! Congrats Erik, that gonna be a monster.
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Congrats Erik, lighting off a new engine is always such a great day. You guys continue making me jealous. My car's been lonely for too long.
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Sounds and looks awesome Erik!
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Thanks guys :cheers:
Yes Joel you need to get yours up and running again!! :poke:
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:popcorn:
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Little updates. Everything has been performing great, did well at hastings, first in class so I'm pleased. Engine is perfect (knock on wood) so I'm welding the hood shut for a while and gonna really start hammering on the chassis and start tuning the aero, lots of plans for winter.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_8/medium_7742.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7742)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_8/medium_7739.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7739)
Brake pad knock back is evident again so I am working on a solution for that currently, hoping for a little feedback on another post I made about front hubs. I finally changed out all the bushings in the rear to either billet or spherical bearings, got a complete set of Ronin camber links to be able to hot swap at the track, very excited to see how the car feels now and to have the ability to adjust the rear suspension easily. Going to change the fronts out to spherical bearings if I go with the super now hubs and use the stock control arms. Need to adust the roll center as well in the front but that will wait as well.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_8/medium_7734.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7734)
I also changed the rear exhaust up, removed almost 30lbs doing this. Weight is also one of the main enemies now, the car is going on a extreme diet this winter along with a full cage. I plan on doing from the headers to the axle backs in oval stainless this winter as well to increase ground clearance, hoping curbs like a DTM superstar has taken a toll on the exhaust haha.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_8/medium_7735.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7735)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_8/medium_7736.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7736)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_8/medium_7738.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7738)
Also got my carbon sunroof plug from Ashley/LOF and I cant say thanks enough! That will be worth another 30lbs. Hope by making the planned changes over winter I can be down to 2500 or less, dont know what all i can cut out from the chassis to reduce it some more but we will find out.
Funny pick, at least to me. I had a off at hallett and packed the rear end full of mud, good friend took this when i thought he was helping
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_8/medium_7740.jpeg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7740)
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Congrats Erik! Looking forward to seeing what you come up with over the winter.
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Every 6 months, this car gets more bad ass.
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Whose sphericals did you use in the rear? My POS poly bushings need to go, they bind like crazy.
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I've had AWRs on my car for a few years now and like them. They use nice bearings that are standard size so you can get replacements easily and cheaply.
They do lock the toe adjusters though, so you have to get toe links. but I actually prefer not having cam adjusters...
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Excellent work Erik!! This car is getting rediculous! I'm glad the car is proving to be reliable.
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Excellent work Erik!! This car is getting rediculous! I'm glad the car is proving to be reliable.
Thanks Ash! I have to try to keep up with you :cheers: It has been very reliable, I just keep finding little things that need improved the faster it gets.
Every 6 months, this car gets more bad ass.
Haha thanks! Hopefully I can keep it up!
I've had AWRs on my car for a few years now and like them. They use nice bearings that are standard size so you can get replacements easily and cheaply.
They do lock the toe adjusters though, so you have to get toe links. but I actually prefer not having cam adjusters...
Whose sphericals did you use in the rear? My POS poly bushings need to go, they bind like crazy.
I went with parts shop max but with a twist. I got there bushings and sphericals. Solid bushings were exact - nice press fit. Sphericals were done nicely too, good fit - the bearings were cheap but would probably work ok. I measured the bearings and replaced them with Aurora units for $30.00 a piece from midwest control products, teflon lined - i can look up the part number later if someone wants to do this. I would have probably went with AWR but they told me it would be a few weeks before they would have any.
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10-4, thanks!
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Did the PBM's come with adjustment lock-outs?
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Did the PBM's come with adjustment lock-outs?
No adjustment lock outs, still using the stock center links and cam bolts.
Well this weekend went awesome! Won class, set class track record, got to drive the prototype NP01 from Elan which was f%$&! awesome and got to meet a fellow forum member that I was not expecting, a Mr Bent Dalton. He moved here locally and will be entering the ring with his yellow swapped FD which will be great, look forward to racing with him next year!
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_8/medium_7772.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7772)
For right now I need to sort the front hubs out and I will be happy with the current setup. One more race for the year at MAM next month then the tear down begins - cage, aero.... lots of little things that I have wanted to do.
Also a secret project we were working on finally came to completion, J32 swap miata. Ran great this weekend, need to sort the suspension out and put different gears in it but overall pretty happy with how it turned out.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_8/medium_7743.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7743)
Waiting on pic's from the track as I didn't really take any due to being so busy :(
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Congrats Erik, you are tearing it up!!
Is TTU the only class you fit in? I'm going to get going with the NASA stuff in 2016.
At the last track day I was playing around with a TT2 Trans Am, and I seemed to be a little quicker. I'd have to cut about 35 HP to run TT2.
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Dude! That j32 swap is awesome. I loved that engine in my TL I only wish it had a little more torque.....in a lighter body it would be a blast. Smooth powerband and reliable all day long! Any mods to the engine?
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Congrats Erik, you are tearing it up!!
Is TTU the only class you fit in? I'm going to get going with the NASA stuff in 2016.
At the last track day I was playing around with a TT2 Trans Am, and I seemed to be a little quicker. I'd have to cut about 35 HP to run TT2.
Thanks Ash. The only reason I am in TTU is because I have not ran it on the dyno yet for classification and started out just putting it in that class so I could run/test things, ended up doing well haha. I was TT2 with the old motor but it was de-tuned and a lot heavier then. The car has lost a lot of weight and will continue over the winter so I just figured I would wait. This new motor makes a lot more power than I thought it would so I have a feeling its going in TT1.
Dude! That j32 swap is awesome. I loved that engine in my TL I only wish it had a little more torque.....in a lighter body it would be a blast. Smooth powerband and reliable all day long! Any mods to the engine?
Thanks Murray, it is amazing how good that little thing feels, will have it on the dyno soon but i imagine its 260 rwhp. No mods yet, probably do some cams later. Im designing a new intake manifold for it so it fits a little better and can use a corvette style air cleaner over the radiator. Its a race class car - probably PTB or ST3 depending, so we wont go bonkers with mods, though I might build some headers for it. Just using stock manifolds and 2.5 exhaust right now, sounds like a NSX haha.
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We'll I Finished out the year strong, won the season championship in TTU for the central region. Ran into a really odd brake system issue at RPM last month, had a rock solid pedal for a moment at 140 mph, had two choices - to plow a Z06 or go through the weeds, i went for the weeds. Nothing damaged luckily, front splitter works like a swath at that velocity I found out haha - something popped when i hit the pedal, dont know if it was a backfire from the engine or something binding in the booster, pedal has worked fine every time since then, all linkage checks out fine.
I finished out the weekend but my confidence was shot, off the pace by a couple seconds, got 2nd place overall. Brakes felt awesome overall as I did move up to carbotech's xp20 front and xp12 rear, great compound setup. I also finally made it to the dyno to see where the new motor is at. Timing is soft, I know some more is in it but I didnt want to buy time on the dyno to find the last bit, all of my tuning has been on the track so far. Nice thing is with current power level I can go up or down in power pretty easily but it looks like I will be TT1/ST1. Without adding power I will need to be 2600lbs with me in it, we will see how close I can get then adjust from there.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_8/medium_7865.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7865)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_8/medium_7866.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7866)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_8/medium_7868.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7868)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_8/medium_7867.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=7867)
On a cool side note NASA is having me as a demo car for the Boyd Coddington All Speed Expo this month on the 21st and 22nd at the KC expo center so that's pretty cool, so if anyone is around swing on over, would love to meet some fellow forum members!
Once that's all over I'll be tearing the car down, removing any extras I can for weight reduction and building a proper cage, going to tie it together front to rear- rear towers together, complete main 8 point cage, firewall to front towers, front towers to frame. Still debating on painting the roll cage the same color as the car for some contrast or just leaving it all black. Will repaint the engine bay but just a fresh coat of black since i'll be filling in holes and will need to paint the new bars in there anyways. Brake system will change some as im getting rid of the booster and running dual masters inside the car, along with the clutch. New front aero/fascia, rocker extentions and a much larger wing, the rules allow me 70". Will also add a few things to the rear diffuser.
Wheels and tires are changing too. Hopefully my current wheel's sell soon as I have sized out wheels for 345/35/18 rear and 315/30/18 front. Hopefully I will see a increase in grip :D Gonna be a fun winter haha but i have till april and if it doesnt all get done I'll just save it for next off season.
Another side note the J swap miata I mentioned before made 253 rwhp and 222 ftlbs, runs awesome! We plan on entering enduro's with it on top of running in st3 with NASA so if the engine pops there like 400 bucks haha great power on the cheap.
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Good stuff Erik! I had missed the track record post prior. You really are a rock star.
Let me know how the new tires fit vs. your Ronin widebody. I may have to update my tire recommendations if you can get it working well. Are you running any kind of fender liner up front? That's still on my long term to do list.
Do you have part of the radiator intentionally blocked in some of the above shots?
Again, really solid work out there. :cheers:
-Joel
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Wow Erik great work. I think you will be able to get 315s on the front without much trouble. Judging by the front clearance you have now, it should be no problem. Id imagine you are good to go in the rear as well. You are making a good amount of power even as is. You'll really move once you get it down to 2600# and turn the wick up with the new aero and tires.
Congrats again..
I have to get racing.. :)
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Good stuff Erik! I had missed the track record post prior. You really are a rock star.
Let me know how the new tires fit vs. your Ronin widebody. I may have to update my tire recommendations if you can get it working well. Are you running any kind of fender liner up front? That's still on my long term to do list.
Do you have part of the radiator intentionally blocked in some of the above shots?
Again, really solid work out there. :cheers:
-Joel
Haha maybe one day Joel but thank you.
Well i have tested so far with actual rubber in those sizes and with spacers on my current wheels and everything looks to be great, if not i wasted a great deal of money! But I will make sure to keep you posted on how things turn out.
I do have liners i made for the front fenders out of .030 aluminum, the back of the fenders is one piece to block the door opening from top to bottom and the tops of the fenders are attached using 8015 3m panel bondm, I just trimmed out a section to the shape of the inside of the top of the fender and glued it, this gave me the most tire clearance and prevents the outies from rocks and such. Then coated everything with black bed liner.The Rears I made wheel well extensions like you that fit the quarter panels.
That brown panel in front of the radiator is actually a honey comb mesh from speedway motors that the guys use for circle track racing, protects the radiator, weighs nothing and is easily replaceable. Better than screen mesh IMO. I'm going to get some for the coolers this winter as well but going to paint it all black so it doesn't stand out so much.
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Wow Erik great work. I think you will be able to get 315s on the front without much trouble. Judging by the front clearance you have now, it should be no problem. Id imagine you are good to go in the rear as well. You are making a good amount of power even as is. You'll really move once you get it down to 2600# and turn the wick up with the new aero and tires.
Congrats again..
I have to get racing.. :)
Thanks Ash, Yes get out there and use that nice winter weather you get. I need some sort of racing to enjoy for the next 5 months haha
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Finally getting around to working on the car! Got the interior stripped and started designing things like the door panels and dash/console area. Still need to get all the tar out of the interior as well. Decided I'm removing the factory pedals and going with the wilwood floor mount pedal set - 340-12410. Going to move the seats back as far as I can and extend the steering wheel, all to move weight back as much as possible. Removed all the oe wiring and building a harness from scratch with a whopping 5 wires to the front and 7 in the back haha I am keeping turn signals and headlights as I will still keep it street legal. Using a mil-spec connector at the firewall for the engine harness which should be help full in engine removal. Should turn out nice.
Got a carbon sunroof plug from LOF which fits perfect, just need to paint it when I am painting the rest of the interior and such. Decided I am painting the interior and engine bay gloss black and going to do the bars and accents in the same exterior color as the car for a little pop. Going to fill the holes on the firewall as well.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_9/medium_8060.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=8060)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_9/medium_8064.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=8064)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_9/medium_8065.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=8065)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_9/medium_8066.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=8066)
Also, after months of waiting I got my trophy! Funny how a couple pieces of plastic mean so much haha
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_9/medium_8067.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=8067)
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Congrats on the fancy trophy.
Whatcha doing with the door panels? I'm considering building something old-Porsche style in the Mustang, minimalist with pull straps, etc.
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Really cool trophy man! Congrats and well deserved!
I am anxiously waiting to see what your cars weigh after his diet is all said and done. :)
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God damn I'm really falling behind here. Nice progress Eric, glad the sunroof panel fit!
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Congrats on the fancy trophy.
Whatcha doing with the door panels? I'm considering building something old-Porsche style in the Mustang, minimalist with pull straps, etc.
Haha thanks!
Well I think were both kinda on the same page. I am either going to use a sheet of 3mm carbon or .030 aluminum for the panels with just red pull straps like the porsche's for both the open and shut. If I do the carbon I will have to form a seperate piece at the top to use the factory felt strip that goes against the glass as it goes up and down and keeps the glass from banging around, it curves over the top of the door. With the aluminum i can do it all one piece and it might look cleaner. All of the aluminum will be flocked, the center console will be attached to the dash and run down to the shifter at a angle kinda like a blancpain lamborghini super trofeo, the cage will look pretty close to that design as well with the lower door bars and double a pillar bars. It was real easy to get in and out of when i sat in one.
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God damn I'm really falling behind here. Nice progress Eric, glad the sunroof panel fit!
Really cool trophy man! Congrats and well deserved!
I am anxiously waiting to see what your cars weigh after his diet is all said and done. :)
Thanks guys! I am excited to see where it lands weight wise also, we will see what happens!
Thank you for helping me Ash, I appreciate it! Yeah you need to get to work!
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Any tail light harness pics?
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LRB speed and Bubbletech do make full aluminium door panels for the FC, but I have a feeling you will make something custom and better.
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I hate to be that guy but.... What you doing with all those old interior bits?
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Any tail light harness pics?
I will take some for you when I'm back out in the shop later.
LRB speed and Bubbletech do make full aluminium door panels for the FC, but I have a feeling you will make something custom and better.
I thought about those actually, Bubbletech is out of business currently and I haven't seen any reviews of LRB but yeah I think I can do better than those options. I have thought about making a mold to form fit a carbon panel and might still do it.
oh btw I got out the brake templates for you :) i just hadn't been out in the shop for a while :(
I hate to be that guy but.... What you doing with all those old interior bits?
Well whats your offer and what are you wanting? Its all stacked up in my basement with all my old 7 parts. I also have the carbon sunroof replacement panel, meant for oe style fit, as well. if you look back through this thread you can see all of it. Shoot me a pm.
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Interior is completely sold guys, appreciate the inquiries on it. The carbon sunroof panel is still for sale and I will be making a proper for sale add, I didn't really expect people to be so eager for the interior :cheers:
On a side note my new pedals and brake components will be here tomorrow. Going to have to figure out a clean looking design to mount the gm electronic throttle to the wilwood pedal. Seen some pictures of what some guys have done on 944 and gt40 forums so I have a couple ideas so far but if someone has some first hand experience I would appreciate some insight :cheers:
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Shit, guess I waited too long? :banghead:
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We'll finally making some progress. Almost finished with the cage, still need to tie the a pillars, b pillars and roof to the bars, make my steering column mount, safety hoops for the center net.
I did get my willwood triple pedals and have started some on mounting those but figured since I need to make false floors to set them up I would finish the cage first so I don't have to go back and change the plates. But moched up they feel awesome especially since I moved the seats back as far as I can and extended the steering column. I will get some pics of that soon.
I did figure out that the max tire I can get to fit in the rear is a 345 35 18 and front is a 315 30 18, I didn't take pics like a dummy when I was fitting things but i'll have some soon of the wheels on the car, they look awesome.
I did also decide to go with a racepak dash and data setup this time to not only simply things in the cabin but to hopefully improve the driver :) as it has lap and sector times, g meter, throttle and brake position with track overlay and real time lap/sector time differences.
Still a ton left to do before painting it all but I'm getting there....I think.
So here's a few pics of things so far, I'll try to remember to take more :)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_9/medium_8194.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=8194)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_9/medium_8195.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=8195)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_9/medium_8196.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=8196)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_9/medium_8197.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=8197)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_9/medium_8198.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=8198)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_9/medium_8199.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=8199)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_9/medium_8200.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=8200)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_9/medium_8201.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=8201)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_9/medium_8202.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=8202)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_9/medium_8203.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=8203)
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Wow Erik that looks awesome. Those Forgestars look great.
I am excited to see how this turns out. Did you make the door panels or are those a set of the commercially available ones?
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Those A pillar bars aren't going to hit your head?
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Damn I wanna see those wheels on
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Very Nice!!!
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Wow Erik that looks awesome. Those Forgestars look great.
I am excited to see how this turns out. Did you make the door panels or are those a set of the commercially available ones?
Thanks Ash. The panels are Techno toy tuning pieces. They come with all hardware, re-use the factory door panel felts. Pretty nice for the money.
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Those A pillar bars aren't going to hit your head?
Nope, clear very nicely. It took me a while to fit everything right, the pictures are kinda deceptive.
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Thanks guys, its turning out pretty decent so I'm happy thus far. Just need more time to work on it :(
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wow! 8)
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Slowly chipping away at it. Got all the metal work done other than fabbing the dash panel and mounting the racepak as that wont be here till tomorrow, got the pedals done other than a few brackets for the clutch and brake switch, mounted the fluid resivoir and also made a mount for the accusump which for some reason I forgot to take a pic.
The pics don't really show a lot as I'm at the stage of large amounts of small tedious work :( but by Saturday morning I'll be laying paint :)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_9/medium_8213.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=8213)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_9/medium_8214.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=8214)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_9/medium_8215.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=8215)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_9/medium_8216.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=8216)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_9/medium_8217.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=8217)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_9/medium_8218.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=8218)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_9/medium_8219.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=8219)
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Finished the Racepak mount, turned out pretty good I think. Finishing prep work tonight and laying paint tomorrow morning!
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_9/medium_8223.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=8223)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_9/medium_8224.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=8224)
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Gonna look badass painted man!!
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Thanks Zac! And you couldn't be any more correct! After working until 3:30 Friday night and going back in around 10 am today and finishing up at 8:30 It turned out like this....
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_9/medium_8225.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=8225)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_9/medium_8226.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=8226)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_9/medium_8227.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=8227)
I had someone smiling over me today, no runs, came out perfect and got complete coverage. I am excited to start putting it back together tomorrow, hopefully I can have it done in time for MAM next weekend.
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Looks killer!
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nice!
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That really did turn out well
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Turned out really nice! I like your new wheels
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Thanks guys! I'm excited to see it on the ground with the new wheels as well!
We'll things are going together, hopefully I can make it to the race this weekend, we will see though.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_9/medium_8233.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=8233)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_9/medium_8234.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=8234)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_9/medium_8235.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=8235)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_9/medium_8236.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=8236)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_9/medium_8237.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=8237)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_9/medium_8238.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=8238)
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Awesome work. I cant wait to see the new wheels.
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Every 6 months, this car gets more bad ass.
So true! Congrats on the regional win. The car is truly at the next level now.
Can you give us a rundown on what the engine setup is now? I believe you sold the supercharger system correct?
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Every 6 months, this car gets more bad ass.
So true! Congrats on the regional win. The car is truly at the next level now.
Can you give us a rundown on what the engine setup is now? I believe you sold the supercharger system correct?
Thanks Mark. Current engine is 331ci, 4" bore, 3.325 stroke, 6.460 rod, 12cc dome, 13-1 comp, 68cc ls3 heads, ls3 intake. Needs a fast or ITB or short ram manifold to find its true potential but it runs good, flatlines at 7 because its choked.
Supercharger is gone until i get bored again haha, hopefully the sequential will be next years addition :cheers:
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Couldn't get it done in time for RPM, got close but ran into some electrical issues and called it due to time but that was a good thing as we had three other cars we were running and lost two motors this weekend :( such is racing haha.
Just a few pics of the wheels as I think everyone has been wanting to see them, they look huge and and kinda funny in the pics as the suspension is far from where it needs to be but it shows overall fitment. On the bright side i did figure out I can go 335 in the front so i ordered some for testing 8)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_9/medium_8267.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=8267)
315 fronts and 345 rears
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_9/medium_8268.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=8268)
0 camber rear and 1.5 front so easy fitment :drive: I run 3.5-4* on the front and 1.5-2* in the rear so these will tuck nicely!
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_9/medium_8269.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=8269)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_9/medium_8270.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=8270)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_9/medium_8266.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=8266)
Fun pic of the cage
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I love your car in a way that borders on inappropriate.
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Damn.
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:) :D :o :cheers: Love it!
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Thanks guys. Been working through bugs so far but I'm getting there.
Figured out i killed the battery from a apparent shorting at the bulkhead connector at the firewall as the connectors were not insulated enough and too close to the steel. Replaced that and insulated things with a little overkill but it sure as hell wont happen again. Ran the car, did a gauge check and changed oil so everything mechanically is good. Love that racepak, wish I did that years ago. Very legible, lights are very bright and cannot be missed, programming is super simple.
Been working on wheel fitment, fronts are spot on and can fit a 335 but will need trimming to the inner lips of both front and rear arch's in the opening to the fenders and will touch the body at full lock. 315's required no trimming on fenders but i did have to flatten the body seems at the back of the wheel well's, no contact lock to lock afterwards and through full articulation of suspension. These are what i recommend for Ronin fenders.
Rears are becoming a different story :( I will say 335 is a easy fit and recommend that to any one who runs these quarters. These 345's are huge! The diameter difference is the killer on these. It's very close to the back of the wheel well opening but can be trimmed for needed clearance, proper camber gets the top portion so it tuck's in but the tire will touch the control arm closer to the bushing/mounting point on the control arm at the front. So at this point I am notching and bracing the control arm for the needed clearance. Otherwise you need mega camber, even lower offset wheels or spacers to make these work and trimming of the quarters at the rear.
Just fyi my wheels are 18x11 -6 front and 18x12 +6 rear with a 12mm spacer in the rear, making the rear -6 et during the current fitment. Rear wheels without a spacer is perfect and fits a 335 no problems at all. Pics are with rear spacers installed.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_9/medium_8278.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=8278)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_9/medium_8279.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=8279)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_9/medium_8280.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=8280)
Need to loom wiring, make the dash panel, mount the sunroof plug, new catch can, front brake ducts, new front splitter, new rear wing, set ride height/corner balance. Getting close! I will make damn sure to make it to hallett next month!
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FML that looks sick. It makes the pic of your car in your sig look weak :)
I think at some point you are going to have to trailer that thing out west or I'll have to trailer mine to the mid west so we can run together.. Or maybe meet a COTA.
How are you liking your coilovers? I am sending my rears out to be re valved shortly, but I really like them. I had to soften the rear a lot.
Also a question on your Forgestars - Do the spokes on yours do the spokes on yours integrate into the main barrel of the wheel, or do the spokes just go to the lip?
There is a small controversy over an F14 wheel failure in a smaller size, and I'd imagine your spokes are formed all the way to the barrel.
(http://i.imgur.com/GO705A3.png)
VS this
(http://i.imgur.com/nA2H9zm.png)
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how much camber are you running? and what do your strut ears look like? I'm running 18x12 w/ 315s square and couldn't fit 335s on the back and definitely couldn't fit them on the front with 0 rear offset and -10 front offset.
I'm guessing it's due to the fenders being installed a bit different on the rear, and your strut ears being really long on the front? (to allow you to run 0 offset) and the 18x11s probably help on the front...
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-hIeH-4Rng_4/VTm5s8pzz-I/AAAAAAAAHRk/XMeopWf2RgwunZTPln5FbuJULXuZhbDIACCo/s1152/IMG_20150423_215340.jpg)
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The Fortune coil overs we both run have amazing tire clearance up front Mike.
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This is why I like you Erik. I read "tire contacts control arm" and think "Well just notch/brace the control arm then" and next sentence, boom, there it is. LOL
Car looks AMAZING. Too bad you can't fit much rubber on it, haha. Wowza.
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FML that looks sick. It makes the pic of your car in your sig look weak :)
I think at some point you are going to have to trailer that thing out west or I'll have to trailer mine to the mid west so we can run together.. Or maybe meet a COTA.
How are you liking your coilovers? I am sending my rears out to be re valved shortly, but I really like them. I had to soften the rear a lot.
Also a question on your Forgestars - Do the spokes on yours do the spokes on yours integrate into the main barrel of the wheel, or do the spokes just go to the lip?
There is a small controversy over an F14 wheel failure in a smaller size, and I'd imagine your spokes are formed all the way to the barrel.
(http://i.imgur.com/GO705A3.png)
VS this
(http://i.imgur.com/nA2H9zm.png)
Ha! Yeah it does! I cant wait to put it on the ground and see it with the new aero as well! I do plan on heading that way, would like to run the west coast nationals this year but may or may not make it since I have missed two races this year and might not qualify. I would definetely be in for a COTA meeting though!
I am still really happy with the current setup, I do agree it needs to be a little softer in the rear but I wanted to change tires/wheels before changing as normally stepping up mechanical grip like this requires firmer springs/valving but most likely will have the rear changed anyways as rear grip is usually the challenge with this car. Currently 16/14 and think a 16/10 split would be about right with the old setup.
Yeah the spokes are integrated into the barrel, I read about a couple post's like that before buying them as well. Terry Fair (owner of Vorshlag) has been running and selling them in my regions, which I will be seeing him again next month at Hallet, and has yet to crack one with a 3800lb mustang on the same size tires as I am running now which he drives the shit out of that car running comparable times to my class with more weight. He also caught air on a berm coming out of a sand trap in atlanta which only bent a wheel so I feel pretty good about them quality wise.
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Yea.. I am pretty convinced that a 4-5K (200-300 lb) spring split front to rear is needed on these cars if you are not running a blade front swaybar. A new front bar may be next for me, but it is a large investment of time and money just to "see" if it will work better on a mac strut car that for all intents and purposes does not care too much how you plant the front tires. It will probably be $1k after getting the bar set up, changing front springs, and getting the struts re valved.
I am not worried about the quality of Forgestars either. Vorshlag has indeed put these wheels through the ringer. I have had 2 sets now and am sold on them. I wish they did 17X10.5s for my FC.
Our track paths will certainly cross in the future I'm sure.
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how much camber are you running? and what do your strut ears look like? I'm running 18x12 w/ 315s square and couldn't fit 335s on the back and definitely couldn't fit them on the front with 0 rear offset and -10 front offset.
I'm guessing it's due to the fenders being installed a bit different on the rear, and your strut ears being really long on the front? (to allow you to run 0 offset) and the 18x11s probably help on the front...
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-hIeH-4Rng_4/VTm5s8pzz-I/AAAAAAAAHRk/XMeopWf2RgwunZTPln5FbuJULXuZhbDIACCo/s1152/IMG_20150423_215340.jpg)
Right now in the rear I'm at -2*. The strut ears appear to be like any of the others on the front, don't have anything to measure to compare at the moment but the wheel clearance is excellent with these Fortunes but now re-reading your numbers you mentioned and going back and re-reading my post, I posted wrong numbers and will correct that in a moment, sorry.
I am -6 et on the fronts 18x11 and +6 et on the rear 18x12, the spacer in the rear is 12mm so that would equate out to a -6 et in the back. Now this sticks out to much in the rear with the 345 but clears the control arm, removing the spacer and running the wheel without it will hit the control arm with the 345 but clears with the 335 correctly which is why I notch the control arm. I do suspect the 11" versus 12 helps with the front as well but looking at the clearance from coil over to rim i bet I could run a 12 with the correct offset as there is quite a bit of room.
And holy crap that is a tight fit haha
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This is why I like you Erik. I read "tire contacts control arm" and think "Well just notch/brace the control arm then" and next sentence, boom, there it is. LOL
Car looks AMAZING. Too bad you can't fit much rubber on it, haha. Wowza.
Haha Thanks Blake
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Yea.. I am pretty convinced that a 4-5K (200-300 lb) spring split front to rear is needed on these cars if you are not running a blade front swaybar. A new front bar may be next for me, but it is a large investment of time and money just to "see" if it will work better on a mac strut car that for all intents and purposes does not care too much how you plant the front tires. It will probably be $1k after getting the bar set up, changing front springs, and getting the struts re valved.
I am not worried about the quality of Forgestars either. Vorshlag has indeed put these wheels through the ringer. I have had 2 sets now and am sold on them. I wish they did 17X10.5s for my FC.
Our track paths will certainly cross in the future I'm sure.
I think you're correct. I have wondered about installing one of those bars upfront, would really like to get a adjustable setup for the rear. Guess I need to invest some time in figuring out how to mount/make a set, I think there would be a few people on here that would be down for a set of those.
Get some 17x11's! Nah your new wheels look bad ass, that's partially why I went with the piano black because I thought yours just looked right on the car.
I look forward to that :cheers:
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Oh.. Well a good one already exists. Perhaps we can put together a group buy. A.R.E. /Guy Ankeny makes them. The first one was ~ $800. The hard work is mostly done. This was the first one.
[smg id=8282 type=preview align=center caption="image"]
I just want to go wider wheels now that I know they will fit.
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Oh.. Well a good one already exists. Perhaps we can put together a group buy. A.R.E. /Guy Ankeny makes them. The first one was ~ $800. The hard work is mostly done. This was the first one.
[smg id=8282 type=preview align=center caption="image"]
I just want to go wider wheels now that I know they will fit.
We'll that's cool! I had not heard of him/them nor seen that set up. I'm in if we want to get a few of us together, if he will even do that for us. I was figuring on a speedway bar setup but this is much nicer. I wonder if he has a rear setup as we'll?
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I credit eage8 with this one, I didn't know about it either. The guy does custom motorsport suspension setups as well. If I ever replace my Fortunes, I am going with his Bilsteins.
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Looking great Erik!
Your car is so dang beautiful. I'm really seriously considering a metallic orange and black setup for my Land Cruiser.
I'm stoked you're proving out the limits of wheel/tire fitment as well. I'll certainly be watching with interest so I can point folks to the "max effort" race fitment. What did you find you needed to clearance up front when considering lock to lock and fore/aft limits? In the back, how far out you can push into the fender likely depends a bit on how much squat you plan to see back there. Did you do the zip tie trick and verify? When I set up mine I just eyeballed it. I probably overdid it as I'm doubtful I'll ever see as much squat as I clearanced for. Certainly agree that 10:30 and 1:30 (maybe even 10 and 2) were the points to watch the clearance as it squats.
(https://sites.google.com/site/frijoleels1fc/CIMG2827Medium.JPG)
Last comment. Our friend Robert was running track slick 275/40r17 (reasonably tall rear tires) and found he'd rub the control arm whenever clearance got down below about 6 mm due to tire deflection under load. Just a data point for you as you think about how much clearance to build into your notching effort.
Anyways... I seriously need to get some Ronin posters made up with your car. If you want to shoot me a few of your favorite pics in full resolution, I'll see what I can do and send you a few (of course). I'm finally going to be back stateside (crossed fingers) June 1.
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Looking great Erik!
Your car is so dang beautiful. I'm really seriously considering a metallic orange and black setup for my Land Cruiser.
I'm stoked you're proving out the limits of wheel/tire fitment as well. I'll certainly be watching with interest so I can point folks to the "max effort" race fitment. What did you find you needed to clearance up front when considering lock to lock and fore/aft limits? In the back, how far out you can push into the fender likely depends a bit on how much squat you plan to see back there. Did you do the zip tie trick and verify? When I set up mine I just eyeballed it. I probably overdid it as I'm doubtful I'll ever see as much squat as I clearanced for. Certainly agree that 10:30 and 1:30 (maybe even 10 and 2) were the points to watch the clearance as it squats.
(https://sites.google.com/site/frijoleels1fc/CIMG2827Medium.JPG)
Last comment. Our friend Robert was running track slick 275/40r17 (reasonably tall rear tires) and found he'd rub the control arm whenever clearance got down below about 6 mm due to tire deflection under load. Just a data point for you as you think about how much clearance to build into your notching effort.
Anyways... I seriously need to get some Ronin posters made up with your car. If you want to shoot me a few of your favorite pics in full resolution, I'll see what I can do and send you a few (of course). I'm finally going to be back stateside (crossed fingers) June 1.
We'll thank you Joel!
In the front wheel well at the back there is a spot weld seam that runs vertically, its where two parts of the main body tub are connected, it sticks out about 1" and i had to hammer that flush. That mod has to be done with either 315 or 335 tire. Now the 335 you need to shave the front and rear portions of the fender opening for turning radius, if the fenders were steel you would just roll the edges on the front and back for reference. The 335 as well would not fit without a decent amount of negative camber, the 315 will fit with relatively stock settings and be herra frush :P I'll get some detailed pictures this weekend for better reference.
I have not done the zip tie trick yet on the rear as I was still just going through the motions and looking at my options. My car doesn't squat very much due to the high spring rate I have but I to like to take into account possible extremes such as going off track or hitting a rumble strip wrong so I'm figuring in a large range of movement that might never happen and or the possibility of using softer rates. Your picture of squat is what i prefer to have as clearance.
I'll get some professional shots done at Hallett next month with all the livery on the car so it looks proper :cheers:
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Got some more done over the weekend, should be ready to race by next week.
Got the windshield and windshield brace done and installed, just need the upper molding to finish it off. Didnt get a up close pic with the factory moldings in place but it really finish's up nice.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_9/medium_8296.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=8296)
Things just got real haha
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_9/medium_8297.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=8297)
Got the carbon roof plug installed, thanks again for selling me that Ash! That thing was a bit of a pain with the roof diagonal but it came out looking factory-ish :D
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_10/medium_8301.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=8301)
Dash coming together, panels are fabbed just need to finish up the wiring and switch's. Kinda strung everywhere at the moment.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_9/medium_8298.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=8298)
Finally on the ground again! Going to raise it up about a inch as I can't get it in the trailer at this height, need to build a quick release nose and install some air jacks this next winter!
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_10/medium_8302.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=8302)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_10/medium_8303.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=8303)
Now a couple side notes here, those pic's are with the 335's on the rear. Reason being I am going to make/modify the rear control arms this winter, build a jig and so on. If I try to do it now the car will be down for too long and I'll miss a majority of the season, I already missed two races so far :( So it will wait a little while, 335's fit nicely and flush with a 1/2" spacer, you can run them without the spacer with this offset but it looks too sunk in to me, I can almost fit my hand between the tire and the control arm. So for bolt on fitment these offsets with a 335/315 fit perfect! :cheers:
So need to finish the wiring, finish dash, install harness's, build the new catch can, do a nut and bolt check, corner balance and wash! I'm excited to go beat on it again!
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Car looks fantastic! We need some in car footage when you get it on the track.
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Car looks fantastic! We need some in car footage when you get it on the track.
Will do, got a mount for my helmet which should be cool. :cheers:
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Forgot I took a pic of the lip that needs flattened in the wheel well for the larger tires and the wheel liners i made for the tops of the fenders that Joel asked about!
This is pretty self explanitory I think, that body seam to the right of the picture, on both sides of the car, needs hammered down and the fronts fit perfect.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_9/medium_8299.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=8299)
This may be a little harder to figure out. That is the apron above the wheel in which i traced out a sheet of .060 aluminum and riveted it to the pinch welded seem on the side of the apron to protect the fender from rocks and such.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_9/medium_8300.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=8300)
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THat looks mean! Love the 315/335 setup on it. Color looks awesome as well.
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Car looks fantastic! We need some in car footage when you get it on the track.
Will do, got a mount for my helmet which should be cool. :cheers:
Get a camera mount for the cage. The helmet mount will look like you are in a blender. Been there done that :)
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THat looks mean! Love the 315/335 setup on it. Color looks awesome as well.
Thanks Mark :cheers: I was really hoping to have the 335/345 setup done right away but it gives me something to do in the winter I guess haha Are we going to see some updates on the new motor for your car?
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Car looks fantastic! We need some in car footage when you get it on the track.
Will do, got a mount for my helmet which should be cool. :cheers:
Get a camera mount for the cage. The helmet mount will look like you are in a blender. Been there done that :)
I'm glad you brought that up. The helmet videos I had seen looked pretty good but I was wondering if they were using some different equipement/camera's? I tried my cage mount a few times but harmonics always seem to jack up the sound and or cause vibrations in the video, any suggestions?
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Car looks fantastic! We need some in car footage when you get it on the track.
Will do, got a mount for my helmet which should be cool. :cheers:
Get a camera mount for the cage. The helmet mount will look like you are in a blender. Been there done that :)
I'm glad you brought that up. The helmet videos I had seen looked pretty good but I was wondering if they were using some different equipement/camera's? I tried my cage mount a few times but harmonics always seem to jack up the sound and or cause vibrations in the video, any suggestions?
I've put a small square of thin foam padding in the lucite case holding my GoPro. Reduces a lot of the vibration sound you hear. Also try plugging in a remote mic instead of using the built in.
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I have the IOport mount in my car. It took 90% of the vibrations out compared to my homemade roll bar mount that I screwed around with for months. Now I only get a bit of "waviness" in the picture above 125MPH or so. It's $125, but you can find used ones on eBay for half that. I have not tried an external mic with my GoPro 4, but I tried it with my GoPro 2 and it helped. The 4 was reasonable out of the box, I use the open rear door on the case.
IOport mount -
http://www.ioportracing.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=CM1-2&Category_Code=CM (http://www.ioportracing.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=CM1-2&Category_Code=CM)
[smg id=8307 type=full align=center caption="image"]
Gopro4, on the IOport mount on my roll bar. The wind noise is more than normal in this video. There were constant 20mph winds the day this was shot.
http://youtu.be/Vn0Ii_nX1qQ (http://youtu.be/Vn0Ii_nX1qQ)
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I have the same IO Port mount and like it a lot.
most of the rattle noises you here on mine are the actual camera rattling I think (i have a contour and the lens rotation is getting a bit loose...)
www.youtube.com/watch?v=X7lqA0eNWRY (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X7lqA0eNWRY)
Here is the same camera mounted to my helmet... it's not nearly as nice and kind of vomit inducing at times :)
www.youtube.com/watch?v=-xx4fVzQAt0 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-xx4fVzQAt0)
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Are those tires about 26" tall? How much clearance do you have between the top of your front tires and the fender/strut tower sheet metal on top? How much travel do you get before the shock is at full extension for your given ride height? Sorry for all the questions, just have a sort of similar setup, and am wondering if I'll run into any issues as it sits now.
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That's not a bad mount you guys have, thanks! After watching your helmet vid eage8 I have to agree with you guys that's not the best approach. I guess its time to play around a little with positions in the car, its tough to find a good angle that I feel show's the real speed of the vehicle.
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Are those tires about 26" tall? How much clearance do you have between the top of your front tires and the fender/strut tower sheet metal on top? How much travel do you get before the shock is at full extension for your given ride height? Sorry for all the questions, just have a sort of similar setup, and am wondering if I'll run into any issues as it sits now.
The 345 is damn near 27" tall, the 335 and 315 are identical at 25 1/2" tall. I don't have exact measurements off hand but its quite a bit of room before the sheet metal apron, I'll get some numbers this weekend. As for extension I get about 1" of compression setting the car down and have about 4" of total stroke before stops, my springs are 16/14. I hit my wheel liners just before the stops.
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Pretty much ready to go this weekend which feels good. Need to spend some time tonight adjusting pedals and finishing the program for the racepak as well as installing a few different decals but other than that it goes down the road.
Just a few specs, car weighs 2700 with half tank as you see it. Still need to change the hatch glass out and gut the doors so another 50lbs is there as well, passenger seat is worth 7-10lbs if I want. Still have some head lamp brackets to remove, maybe 5lbs? Heavy little turd haha but its 200lbs lighter than it was!
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_10/medium_8322.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=8322)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_10/medium_8324.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=8324)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_10/medium_8323.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=8323)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_10/medium_8325.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=8325)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_10/medium_8326.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=8326)
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Looks killer!
That hatch glass weighs a shit ton, you'll be very happy when its gone.
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Your car looks so good! It makes me want to buy and FC and copy.
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Well this escalated quickly. That weight is not too bad considering what you can still pull out.
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Gives me hope that I can hit 2600 lbs, albeit with more/heavier cage.
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I believe that shouldnt be a problem Supe! My tubing is 1.5" .120 wall so its heavy :( I also didnt realise that my car was full tank at that weight either until i went to fill it up for testing on friday, only took a little over a gallon before starting to come up the filler neck :banghead: and it holds a little over 15 gallons, I run it with about 6 gallons in it for time trials as it uses about 5 gallons in one run. So current race weight was 2648 on the scales, I think i can hit 2550 in race weight which will be nice!
We'll a little recap of the race weekend as it went ok but had its issues as expected. Arrived Friday afternoon for testing and made only one run due to the alternator deciding to crap out and charge at 18v towards the end of the first test session. Made some rounds in the pits looking for a spare alternator, found one luckily with a group of the CMC cars but the test sessions were over by the time I got it back together. I Really wanted to get back out as that first run the car was wicked loose, lot's of fun but not fast. I at least had a idea for tire pressures for setting grid in the morning.
First run saturday was a little better, still several seconds off where I used to be. I know some of the improvement from friday was just me getting used to the car again but at least now it wasn't trying to kill me haha. Oil temps were high, in the low 270* range which was a first for this car, coolant sat at about 207* which is normal. A second oil cooler is going to be needed for lower speed tracks like this and high ambient temps. The car is massively stiffer now and will not require near the spring rate I have now. It felt like a big go kart, skipping all over the place. Tires coulldn't do work at all, multiple spots on the track that the front end was coming off the ground, just highly unstable all around. Made some more pressure adustments, disconnected the rear bar, softened the shocks up as far as I could go and went out again.
Second run felt way better, not great by any means but better. Rear end was still pretty loose. Front end was better but still unstable on exit with any sort of surface irregularity, corner 7 would bounce the front off the ground under power (washboard) and send me to the grass in a hurry. Pulled in the hot pits after about 6 laps to check temps. Front camber was perfect as temps were within 5* across, rear needs less as the outsides were about 20* cooler. Really need to soften it up and let the tires work :(
Decided for run three to just go out to get more seat time and verify things. Team mate wanted to go out so I brought him with. Temps were up, car was the same, best lap was within a tenth of my last run. Came in and noticed the drive belt was shredding and lost a couple ribs, apparently the new/used alternator pulley was not in the same position as my old one and needed shimmed out some. It was hot and miserable so I just figured on skipping the last round and pulling the alternator to adjust it along with changing the ronin rear links to take the camber out after dinner when things cooled off some.
Started on the alternator after dinner, got it out and shimmed the pulley, went to install the battery cable and the stud just spins in the back of the alternator :( jacked around with it for a while realizing the part that the stud attaches with on the inside of the alternator is broken, put it back on hoping for some weird miracle and of course it wont charge. It's hot, I'm irritated, people are drunk....its time to head back to the hotel and try to figure something out in the morning.
Got back to the trailer early, tried taking things apart to see what i could do. the nearest new alternator is a good 45 mins one way, first round is at 9 and we planned on leaving shortly after lunch so I admitted defeat, packed up early, helped some friends, went for a ride with one and helped him find a littel over a second on his time and left. Exciting end right?
At least the learning level was high this weekend and I figured out what I needed to know to make the car work. I wish It would have been a little calmer and cooler so I would have been thinking about mounting the go pro and getting some vids. I can say the new racepak dash showed me a lot issues before they became bigger problems, I highly recommend something like that if you can afford it, it will save you money and time in the long run. Car is very fast and can't wait to get back out a little more prepared. I have a laundry list of little things to change and add :cheers:
Should have some photo's on the way to me in the mail as well.
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I've got you beat - 1 3/4" .120 wall!
I'll be very interested to see where you settle on spring rates. I always thought I was way on the light side, but after talking to an FC RX7 guru and multiple-time SCCA champion who engineers a lot of products for their ITS cars, he was adamant that even with aero my spring rates were bordering on too high, and that the cars performed best with lighter springs and stiffer speedway style sway bars. I'm hoping he's right, because I really don't want to change springs. I want to say I'm something around 525/375 or somewhere thereabouts, will have to check my old receipts.
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With a round of changes as dramatic as you made, a "re-learning" curve has to be normal to get the setup dialed back in. Stay the course amigo. We're all rooting for you.
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I've got you beat - 1 3/4" .120 wall!
I'll be very interested to see where you settle on spring rates. I always thought I was way on the light side, but after talking to an FC RX7 guru and multiple-time SCCA champion who engineers a lot of products for their ITS cars, he was adamant that even with aero my spring rates were bordering on too high, and that the cars performed best with lighter springs and stiffer speedway style sway bars. I'm hoping he's right, because I really don't want to change springs. I want to say I'm something around 525/375 or somewhere thereabouts, will have to check my old receipts.
Yea.. I am sort of in the same boat with you. It is $1200 to take a swing at a new big speedway bar/softer suspension setup with no guarantee the car will be any better. I am sure those guys are smarter than me, but they are not running cars with our level of power either. The car is damn good as is, and I can actually reduce my front camber a bit with the setup I'm running now.
I'm at 700/400 now. I'm amazed Erik can run the rear spring rate he's been running. I was running 500 lb springs in the back and the car was a handful to drive and bounced badly over the bumps. I don't have too many complaints now, others than needing to revalve the rear shocks for the softer rates.
Erik,
Where are you reading oil temps from? I hit ~270 occasionally but I'm reading temps from the pan, so I sort of just ignore it :) I just change my oil after about 10 hours of track use. Oil reports have come back pretty healthy.
Did you redo the suspension at all? Or is it the same rates and setup you had before, just at a tighter/slower track? If you need to bounce (pun intended) any ideas around, feel free to drop me a line.
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With a round of changes as dramatic as you made, a "re-learning" curve has to be normal to get the setup dialed back in. Stay the course amigo. We're all rooting for you.
Thanks Joel and you are most correct, hard work and perserverence will prevail. :cheers:
I've got you beat - 1 3/4" .120 wall!
I'll be very interested to see where you settle on spring rates. I always thought I was way on the light side, but after talking to an FC RX7 guru and multiple-time SCCA champion who engineers a lot of products for their ITS cars, he was adamant that even with aero my spring rates were bordering on too high, and that the cars performed best with lighter springs and stiffer speedway style sway bars. I'm hoping he's right, because I really don't want to change springs. I want to say I'm something around 525/375 or somewhere thereabouts, will have to check my old receipts.
That is heavy! haha you win that one.
I too have been noticing the light spring/heavy bar setup a lot with ep and its rx7's as I started doing research. I wish there was a few of them around here to do a little comparison. Your spring rates are half of what I am running and I would very curious as to see what its like with a few hundred pounds of down force, for reference i am at 900/800 and it felt awesome before the full chassis change. I believe it worked due to the chassis flex, extra weight and I believe the toyo's had softer sidewalls as well. Do you have a speedway style bar? Do you have any pictures of your setup? I'll show you mine if you show me yours :D
I've got you beat - 1 3/4" .120 wall!
I'll be very interested to see where you settle on spring rates. I always thought I was way on the light side, but after talking to an FC RX7 guru and multiple-time SCCA champion who engineers a lot of products for their ITS cars, he was adamant that even with aero my spring rates were bordering on too high, and that the cars performed best with lighter springs and stiffer speedway style sway bars. I'm hoping he's right, because I really don't want to change springs. I want to say I'm something around 525/375 or somewhere thereabouts, will have to check my old receipts.
Yea.. I am sort of in the same boat with you. It is $1200 to take a swing at a new big speedway bar/softer suspension setup with no guarantee the car will be any better. I am sure those guys are smarter than me, but they are not running cars with our level of power either. The car is damn good as is, and I can actually reduce my front camber a bit with the setup I'm running now.
I'm at 700/400 now. I'm amazed Erik can run the rear spring rate he's been running. I was running 500 lb springs in the back and the car was a handful to drive and bounced badly over the bumps. I don't have too many complaints now, others than needing to revalve the rear shocks for the softer rates.
Erik,
Where are you reading oil temps from? I hit ~270 occasionally but I'm reading temps from the pan, so I sort of just ignore it :) I just change my oil after about 10 hours of track use. Oil reports have come back pretty healthy.
Did you redo the suspension at all? Or is it the same rates and setup you had before, just at a tighter/slower track? If you need to bounce (pun intended) any ideas around, feel free to drop me a line.
I have been really thinking about using a good set of bars and soft springs but just dont know how far to go or not to go with that setup. With stockish bars and the weight/power we have I think your rates are pretty close to what it needs to be, my thoughts were 800/500 for a initial change due to aero and larger tire. Using what I have now I think I'm just going to order 2 or 3 sets of springs and go to a test day one of my friends is doing as he is renting RPM during a weekend day for pretty cheap, only thoughts were the valving issue like you mentioned but I don't think it will be horrible, at least I hope not.
My oil temps are from the pan as well and I agree that as long as that isn't uber high its ok as the oil coming from the cooler is probably 20 or so degrees cooler entering the engine, just the first time its ever been that high but it was really hot out. Part of me says install a second cooler on the other side or put a bigger one on. The other half says just leave it alone as it was just a extreme setting and it didnt really do that bad.
Same suspension, didn't change a thing as I hoping it would have gone the other direction as I figured the grip level would go up the need for stiffer springs would increase, instead it went the opposite. I was at this track last year with the same setup and it was anywhere like this, its amazing how much the car changed.
I might do that Ash, send me a pm with your number again as Im not sure I saved it or not.
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Supe does not share pictures. I just have to scour these boards in random threads for random pictures of his car and piece it together in my mind. :yay:
I think your chassis, the front specifically, is just too stiff for the suspension now.. Or stiff enough that the suspension actually works as intended :). I would definitely throw some different springs on it as is. Even if the valving is off, you'll know immediately if you are going in the right direction.
I have my 12k/9K Fortune springs if you want to try them or just a pair of them.
I am sold on no rear sway bar, I don't think I will ever put one back on the car. My car was edgy loose with the 9K rear springs, even on smooth turns. It is more consistent now with the softer springs and other changes.
I need to do some more research on the front bar and really see what kind of data I can gather to decide if the speedway front bar is worth a try. I have thought of dropping to 650 # springs in front just to see what would happen.
I'll drop you a PM with my contact number.
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We'll after a lot of thought and some very well appreciated feedback from Charlie @ mazcare I have decided to go the softer spring/big bar route. We're starting out at 450f/275r, 1-1/4" .250 wall speedway bar on front and my current tanabe bar in the rear, due to stagger I have. This by the numbers equates out to the same total spring load under cornering as what I am running currently as that bar with a 11" arm is about 450lbs at 5* of twist. So hopefully this retains the front end grip I have now underload, brings the rear grip WAAAAY up. Curious to hear some of your thoughts as well. :cheers:
A couple shots from the weekend and weights before this race, fuel fuel, driver and gear.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_10/medium_8410.png) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=8410)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_10/medium_8411.png) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=8411)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_10/medium_8412.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=8412)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_10/medium_8413.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=8413)
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Oh boy, that is a huge swing. Is Charlie putting together the bar for you? Are you going up on rear bar or have you always run the Tenabe and just dropping the rear spring rate? I think your car is going to get much easier to drive.
PM me the details on the front bar. I'll do one as well if it can save us some money.
Car looks awesome. How much gas does it have in it for those weights?
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Your car is constantly getting better and better. I would also be interested in a front sway bar or more info on what your are planning on doing.
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I'm very interested in what you find with softer springs / bigger bar. I've always been surprised by the hugely stiff springs most people seem to run on these cars. Granted, mine's a street car, but it had 525 / 380 springs on it when I got it, and it just seemed to not hook up well around corners, especially if they were bumpy. I dropped to 340 / 250 and it made a big difference in grip both in the corner, and in getting the power down off the corner. All with stock front bar, no rear bar. Again, street tires, not race tires like you.
Next I'm going to try RB front bar, possibly along with a stock rear bar to keep balance. I may go even softer on springs with the bigger bar.
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Cholmes - Do the RB front and no rear bar. You'll really like it on the street I bet.
For tighter more technical tracks I can see going to a softer rear spring. I'm running 400lb rears now, I could see maybe 350, even 300. On the faster tracks I run the 400s seem pretty good, 350 might be a good all around compromise. I ran 500 lb springs before and it was too stiff over bumps, the car hopped around a lot.
I ran my car with RB front and rear bars when it was rotary powered and never really liked it. I felt like the rear bar did not put the power down as well, but cornered off power better.
Im really interested in this discussion and results.
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+1
I'm really interested to see what the data says. do you have decent data with the cars current setup on any tracks that you plan to compare back to back?
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Thanks for the tip on the RB bar largeorange, I'll try it like that.
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Oh boy, that is a huge swing. Is Charlie putting together the bar for you? Are you going up on rear bar or have you always run the Tenabe and just dropping the rear spring rate? I think your car is going to get much easier to drive.
PM me the details on the front bar. I'll do one as well if it can save us some money.
Car looks awesome. How much gas does it have in it for those weights?
Yeah its a pretty big move but Russ's car work's pretty good and Charlie has good data for it so I feel confident in his recommendation's. I may need to move up or down a little to find exactly what it wants but I feel this is a good starting point. I think that I will need to increase some later as I will be adding more aero here fairly soon but one step at a time, I prefer to do one thing at so I can accurate results/data.
Charlie is not building the bar but is helping me on the design and parts, we can talk about it once I have all the information ready. I have always had the Tanabe bars on the car so I am just going with what I have for the rear to start with and dropping spring rates, Charlie use's the stock rear, just fyi.
Those weights are with a completely full tank, all fluids and safety gear in the vehicle including suite/helmet/hans and driver, I weigh 225. I can't wait to gut the doors, swap out the back glass and remove the headlights! The new springs are supposedly lighter as well!
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+1
I'm really interested to see what the data says. do you have decent data with the cars current setup on any tracks that you plan to compare back to back?
Yes I have quite a bit of data from previous years and from this year, I have one track in particular that I like to run for testing so I know what the change's did.
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I'm very interested in what you find with softer springs / bigger bar. I've always been surprised by the hugely stiff springs most people seem to run on these cars. Granted, mine's a street car, but it had 525 / 380 springs on it when I got it, and it just seemed to not hook up well around corners, especially if they were bumpy. I dropped to 340 / 250 and it made a big difference in grip both in the corner, and in getting the power down off the corner. All with stock front bar, no rear bar. Again, street tires, not race tires like you.
Next I'm going to try RB front bar, possibly along with a stock rear bar to keep balance. I may go even softer on springs with the bigger bar.
I have to admit the car was fast before with the stiffer suspension, but it was a whole package I think, just what the car wanted with that current chassis setup. Now that its light and very rigid I can let the suspension and tires do the work, or at least that's the theory, It's not even close to the same car any more It's quite crazy. We will see what happens, need to start somewhere! :cheers:
Cholmes - Do the RB front and no rear bar. You'll really like it on the street I bet.
For tighter more technical tracks I can see going to a softer rear spring. I'm running 400lb rears now, I could see maybe 350, even 300. On the faster tracks I run the 400s seem pretty good, 350 might be a good all around compromise. I ran 500 lb springs before and it was too stiff over bumps, the car hopped around a lot.
I ran my car with RB front and rear bars when it was rotary powered and never really liked it. I felt like the rear bar did not put the power down as well, but cornered off power better.
Im really interested in this discussion and results.
Good call for Cholmes :cheers: Yeah its on ice right now, quite difficult to drive, I missed how it felt at the end of last year :( I think though that your numbers are pretty close to where it needs to be Ash, the Tanabe rear bar equates out to a little over 150#, so with a 275# spring I am at about 425lbs under load in corner, if the bar is at a full 5* of twist. So by the math Ill be 900/425 in the corner at least somewhere really close to that.
Your car is constantly getting better and better. I would also be interested in a front sway bar or more info on what your are planning on doing.
Once its all sorted out and I have all the parts installed I'll let you know Willcoop.
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Got everything figured out on the torsion bar, really appreciate the help Charlie! Here is the part numbers through 1speedway.com
bar - 608-250-36 36" long, 48 spline .250 wall thickness - 467.50 lbs with 11" arms at 5* of twist
mounting blocks - 605b-125 x2
locking collars - 605c-125 x2
bar arms - 610-3 x2 18" long - these come straight and will require a 35* kick out 7" from the end with the splined hole, where it attaches at the bar. You have to heat them to 400*, bend, then throw them in water. I tried cold bending one in my press and it cracked at 32*. I recommend making a template out of plate to set beside it for reference of the bend required or have a shop do it.
You will also need to drill your holes in the arms for the endlink bolts for adjustment points :cheers:
I dont have pic's at the moment but will this weekend when i finish the install, its very straight forward.
Got my springs installed, went with swifts as i found a good deal for all four direct from swift in california.
Also changed out my master cylinders for the brakes as the pedal was just horrible, I had 7/8 rear and 13/16 front, recommended from wilwood, which required a astronomical amount of force to get it to stop, i was flexing the floor when i pounded on it and could only make it stop if I hit the top of the pedal for more leverage :( So after talking to the guys at tilton and doing my own math before hand we arrived at 5/8's front and rear. The guys at wilwood just didnt really care and apparently can't do the math even when you have all the information for them :( I was really dissapointed especially after running all their parts. Tilton will get my business from now on.
Not as much fun without pictures but I'll have some this weekend!
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I think I had that same master cylinder combination from the guys at Revolution Brake with the Superlite front and Dynalite rear calipers, 12.75" dia rotors, but that was with the 6.25:1 ratio pedals. I hope I don't run into the same problem, because at least in the garage, the pedal feels good!
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I think I had that same master cylinder combination from the guys at Revolution Brake with the Superlite front and Dynalite rear calipers, 12.75" dia rotors, but that was with the 6.25:1 ratio pedals. I hope I don't run into the same problem, because at least in the garage, the pedal feels good!
6.25 ration would be a lot better, I am at 5.25 but the piston diameters are what really affects it. Use this link as it is the same basic calculator tilton uses http://www.tceperformanceproducts.com/dual-bias-calc/ (http://www.tceperformanceproducts.com/dual-bias-calc/) - your shooting for 80lb of foot pressure, 40lbs is what average assisted pressure is.
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Picture time!
New springs
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_10/medium_8435.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=8435)
Beginning work on brake ducts, 3" ducting. Waiting for flange inlets to arrive, going to mount them in the radiator opening for high pressure.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_10/medium_8436.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=8436)
Sway bar
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_10/medium_8437.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=8437)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_10/medium_8439.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=8439)
3/8"s x 5" bolts, drilled straight through the frame. Multiple ways a person could do this, just depends on how you want to do it and how much time you want to spend doing it. You can also see the arm has to be right up next to the frame and that normally a lip is there that sticks out so you have to hammer it down flat. If you didnt do that the bar would have to be longer and the wheels would make contact at full lock with the arms, at least mine would.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_10/medium_8438.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=8438)
New catch can, still debating on changing the hose routing for asthetics
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_10/medium_8440.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=8440)
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Looking good!
I need to learn to TIG and build a catch can. I'm jealous of all the nice setups I see.
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Any other shots of your duct routing and backing plates?
Really like your swaybar setup, though I don't think I have the pan/balancer clearance you LS guys do. Will have to figure out a more creative solution if I want to nix the RB bar :(
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Any other shots of your duct routing and backing plates?
Really like your swaybar setup, though I don't think I have the pan/balancer clearance you LS guys do. Will have to figure out a more creative solution if I want to nix the RB bar :(
This same setup would easily fit whatever you wanted, would just need to make spacers to move the bar down a inch or so :cheers:
I'll post up more shots this weekend of the ducting and backing plates.
Looking good!
I need to learn to TIG and build a catch can. I'm jealous of all the nice setups I see.
I agree! You need one! :cheers:
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Any other shots of your duct routing and backing plates?
Really like your swaybar setup, though I don't think I have the pan/balancer clearance you LS guys do. Will have to figure out a more creative solution if I want to nix the RB bar :(
This same setup would easily fit whatever you wanted, would just need to make spacers to move the bar down a inch or so :cheers:
I'll post up more shots this weekend of the ducting and backing plates.
Looking good!
I need to learn to TIG and build a catch can. I'm jealous of all the nice setups I see.
I agree! You need one! :cheers:
Good deal on the bar! Need to take a closer look and make sure I haven't put any more crap in the way. I assume a bar that's about 3/4" wider on each side wouldn't be a problem? The local NASCAR shop up in Mooresville has a million bars for about $100/ea, but they're all 37 1/2" standard length, albeit in every rate imaginable. What was the diameter of your bar?
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Did you revalve the struts yet ot just going to try it and see? I might need a parts list for that sway bar, it looks great
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Any other shots of your duct routing and backing plates?
Really like your swaybar setup, though I don't think I have the pan/balancer clearance you LS guys do. Will have to figure out a more creative solution if I want to nix the RB bar :(
This same setup would easily fit whatever you wanted, would just need to make spacers to move the bar down a inch or so :cheers:
I'll post up more shots this weekend of the ducting and backing plates.
Looking good!
I need to learn to TIG and build a catch can. I'm jealous of all the nice setups I see.
I agree! You need one! :cheers:
Good deal on the bar! Need to take a closer look and make sure I haven't put any more crap in the way. I assume a bar that's about 3/4" wider on each side wouldn't be a problem? The local NASCAR shop up in Mooresville has a million bars for about $100/ea, but they're all 37 1/2" standard length, albeit in every rate imaginable. What was the diameter of your bar?
Width shouldnt be a huge problem unless you have low offset wheels like me, that much more sticking out would just touch the rim upon full lock. This bar is 1-1/4" .250 wall. Speedways bar is 128.00 for any size pretty much, the mounts were 30.00 a piece, locking collars were 9.00 a piece and the arms are 58.00 a piece. Then figure associated hardware and freight. I had right at 380.00 in the whole thing.
Did you revalve the struts yet ot just going to try it and see? I might need a parts list for that sway bar, it looks great
I have not yet. I figure I'll try it as is first but most likely will after this next race. If the car feels great I'm leaving them alone haha
I listed all the part numbers for what I bought a few posts up, let me know if you need any help! It's nice that this fits better than the stock bar did clearance wise to the engine and such.
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Swaybar looks great. Strangely familiar though. :yay:
(https://sites.google.com/site/frijoleels1fc/CIMG2860Medium.JPG)
http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=1274.msg88016#msg88016 (http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=1274.msg88016#msg88016)
If I ever break mine I'd do the single bend version but I bought these whole. Agree that heating up the arm is needed to bend it... As big a bend radius as you can manage helps too. FWIW mine is 1/8" wall, 36" long. My math says it's just a touch lighter rate than an RB bar which was my main point of reference in driving style... yours should be a fair bit stiffer.
I used PVC spacers to keep it centered.
Last comment is to check your clearances with the rack at lock while cycling the suspension. Not shown above, but I ended up notching the bottom of my arms by a touch to clear the rack. Can't remember if that was required or just closer than I was comfortable with but either way, it's worth a check.
-Joel
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Swaybar looks great. Strangely familiar though. :yay:
(https://sites.google.com/site/frijoleels1fc/CIMG2860Medium.JPG)
http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=1274.msg88016#msg88016 (http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=1274.msg88016#msg88016)
If I ever break mine I'd do the single bend version but I bought these whole. Agree that heating up the arm is needed to bend it... As big a bend radius as you can manage helps too. FWIW mine is 1/8" wall, 36" long. My math says it's just a touch lighter rate than an RB bar which was my main point of reference in driving style... yours should be a fair bit stiffer.
I used PVC spacers to keep it centered.
Last comment is to check your clearances with the rack at lock while cycling the suspension. Not shown above, but I ended up notching the bottom of my arms by a touch to clear the rack. Can't remember if that was required or just closer than I was comfortable with but either way, it's worth a check.
-Joel
That looks good Joel! Yeah I ran the suspension through its travel and adjusted the starting position of the arms, they clear by a 1/4" or so at max stroke. It's getting pretty tight in the wheel wells with all the ducting and sway bar now. Wish I had seen yours before hand for reference!
The pvc bushing for alignment is pretty good idea and your shot glass spacers look to work well also!
Do you remember what your pivot measurement is where the end link bolts on? 11", 12"?
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Thanks Eric, forgot you listed the part numbers above. Very interested to see how this does. What actually excited me most is the adjustability.
I suspect you'll need a revalve. I do in the rear after dropping 100 lbs on the spring rates. You'll know if you are going in the right direction at least
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Thanks Eric, forgot you listed the part numbers above. Very interested to see how this does. What actually excited me most is the adjustability.
I suspect you'll need a revalve. I do in the rear after dropping 100 lbs on the spring rates. You'll know if you are going in the right direction at least
You and me both! Hastings on the 13/14th is going to be interesting. I suspect your right on the re-valve, I figure when i get back I'll take them off and send them in, hopefully have them back before High plains on labor day weekend.
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Some shots of the brake cooling
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_10/medium_8450.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=8450)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_10/medium_8451.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=8451)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_10/medium_8452.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=8452)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_10/medium_8453.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=8453)
New oil cooler done as well, started out with a afco double pass deck unit and made ducting/brackets to fit in the same spot as my other unit, this should help temp wise quite a bit I think.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_10/medium_8454.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=8454)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_10/medium_8455.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=8455)
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Thanks, looks great! Any shots of the ducts mounted to the hub?
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Do the tires hit the brake ducting? I love the extra clearance with the speedway bar... I think I am going to spend some money this next season.
Are you running 7 inch springs up front? I switched to 6 inch springs up front for extra tire and wheel clearance.
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Do the tires hit the brake ducting? I love the extra clearance with the speedway bar... I think I am going to spend some money this next season.
Are you running 7 inch springs up front? I switched to 6 inch springs up front for extra tire and wheel clearance.
They would but I made shields out of 4" aluminum .125" wall tube that bolt to the body, cut the tube in half so it has a nice pre made curve and welded tabs on them, the tires would rub on full lock otherwise.
I thought about going to a smaller spring but after doing the math and figuring that the front springs are going to compress 1.33" at static ride height and with 3.5" of usable stroke I would stay with the longer spring to not possibly get into bind, especially since I have a ton of room between the tire/wheel and the spring.
Thanks, looks great! Any shots of the ducts mounted to the hub?
I'll get a pic of the shields mounted on the spindle this weekend.
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Nice. As an FYI my 6 inch PAC springs have slightly more travel than the 7 inch Fortune springs I replaced.
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Well things worked out pretty good this past weekend, I finally have a car i can drive again. Second gear accelleration is great when tires are hot, rough surfaces are not a issue any more, car transitions well, tons of rear grip - I am in love with that.
Things to work on - car has a good deal of push mid corner and corner exit unless I over power it. I can set the front end under braking and turns in great but then it goes away. Rear braking has definetely deteriorated some due to increased weight transfer, I feel some of that is also from the valving not being correct in the shocks for the softer springs.
So after getting pressures dialed in after the first couple runs I worked the absorbers some, got a little improvement from that. Rear bar is still disconnected and front bar set in the middle setting. Now I know you guys are wondering why I didn't start adjusting bars like crazy, which I wanted to do but I felt it was better for me as a driver to work on myself first since the whole car was basically new again, for the second time haha which I'm glad I did do but also it ruined my weekend a little sooner than I hoped as I corded the fronts from drving through the understeer. Now one other thing to note is these tires were old and the fronts were definetely older than the rears so some of the push was part of the tires. I didnt want to throw on fresh tires until I felt the car was somewhat in the ballpark.
I got one vid as friend wanted to ride along on the second session on saturday and brought his camera which I'm he did, showed me how far my line was off on some of the corners :P You'll also hear me mentioning braking issues as at end of the video as I lost pretty much all the front brake pressure due to air in the lines, pedal went pretty much to the floor but the rears still functioned thankfully. It was kinda mushy going through that whole session but once I started to pick up some speed it just went completely away :o Thought I had it bled pretty well but once I got back in the pits and bled them again they had a loooot of air in them front and rear, pedal felt great the rest of the weekend afterwards. So enjoy the vid! :cheers:
https://youtu.be/TEqIMcfCZuc
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I'm very admittedly not a road racer (at least not yet) but that looks like a hell of a lot of fun.
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I'm very admittedly not a road racer (at least not yet) but that looks like a hell of a lot of fun.
Once you get bit by the track bug you're hooked. It is so much fun out there. ;)
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The car looks killer out there. I am certain you can get the push tuned out from mid corner to exit. I had the same problem last year.
I agree with not making a ton of adjustments after a big change like this, as the whole attitude and platform of the car is going to be different.
I am interested what will happen if you hook up the rear bar. It might help corner mid-exit but I am wondering if it will free up your entry too much.
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I'm very admittedly not a road racer (at least not yet) but that looks like a hell of a lot of fun.
Puts a smile on my face every time! and apparently everyone else as it seems i have a line of people every race wanting to go on ride along's.
I'm very admittedly not a road racer (at least not yet) but that looks like a hell of a lot of fun.
Once you get bit by the track bug you're hooked. It is so much fun out there. ;)
You are not kidding!! I think a drug habit would be far cheaper.
The car looks killer out there. I am certain you can get the push tuned out from mid corner to exit. I had the same problem last year.
I agree with not making a ton of adjustments after a big change like this, as the whole attitude and platform of the car is going to be different.
I am interested what will happen if you hook up the rear bar. It might help corner mid-exit but I am wondering if it will free up your entry too much.
I thought about rear bar first as that was my initial reaction but the more I dwell on it I think increasing front camber and then adjusting the front bar first is the way to go as I really dont want to decrease or alter rear grip. I am at 3.5 right now and I think 4 to 4.5 is what it wants judging by temps as it was about 20* hotter on the outsides, rears at 1.7 static are about perfect. I know some of the temp on the outside fronts is from sliding but it was rolling the tire over as well which you can see on the sidewall.
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Yea. My thought would be to not mess with the rear bar unless you have to. I am very happy without it. Is the car rolling over more in the corner?
Is this the first time you've had Hoosiers on the car?
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Yea. My thought would be to not mess with the rear bar unless you have to. I am very happy without it. Is the car rolling over more in the corner?
Is this the first time you've had Hoosiers on the car?
It has a lot more roll than the old suspension for sure. This is the second time out I have had Hoosiers on the car, first time with hoosiers was the last event and I couldn't get any real heat in them as the car was horrible but I also didn't get much time in the car due to other problems :( So I would say this is the first time haha
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Car is looking great!
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Yea. My thought would be to not mess with the rear bar unless you have to. I am very happy without it. Is the car rolling over more in the corner?
Is this the first time you've had Hoosiers on the car?
It has a lot more roll than the old suspension for sure. This is the second time out I have had Hoosiers on the car, first time with hoosiers was the last event and I couldn't get any real heat in them as the car was horrible but I also didn't get much time in the car due to other problems :( So I would say this is the first time haha
Ok, makes sense why you have some understeer then.
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If you think it'll need 4 to 4.5 degrees camber to get front tire temps correct, it really does sound like you're just rolling too much. It makes sense, you've got softer springs; so increasing front bar stiffness seems like the logical next step. If it then understeers too much, then it might be worth trying a rear bar to get the balance right.
I understand the reluctance to add the rear bar, but even really big horsepower cars in the pre-ground effect era usually had rear bars. I think it's useful to look at professional road racing cars from the '60's and early 70's for ideas about our cars; the level of chassis development and downforce is very similar. For what it's worth, Carroll Smith wrote in Tune to Win that he generally ran the softest springs he could, and achieved the roll stiffness and balance he needed with front and rear bars.
At any rate, I'm enjoying watching your progress!
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From everything I have seen Hoosiers like more camber than a DOT R tire, I have never run them though. I think stiffening the front will resolve the understeer, but it looks like it is not quite stiff enough.
My concern with the rear bar is that at the power levels we are running with the semi trailing arm setup, limiting rear grip does not seem like a good idea for the roadcourse. The car seems to like to "drive" from the front and let the rear tires follow independently... If that makes sense. My car was very edgy without enough rear grip, I had to wait for the car too long when exiting a corner.
I've found I actually need less camber as my latest set of tires are worn more on the inside. I'm at -2.8 now and will probably take out a couple tenths of a degree in the front.
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If you think it'll need 4 to 4.5 degrees camber to get front tire temps correct, it really does sound like you're just rolling too much. It makes sense, you've got softer springs; so increasing front bar stiffness seems like the logical next step. If it then understeers too much, then it might be worth trying a rear bar to get the balance right.
I understand the reluctance to add the rear bar, but even really big horsepower cars in the pre-ground effect era usually had rear bars. I think it's useful to look at professional road racing cars from the '60's and early 70's for ideas about our cars; the level of chassis development and downforce is very similar. For what it's worth, Carroll Smith wrote in Tune to Win that he generally ran the softest springs he could, and achieved the roll stiffness and balance he needed with front and rear bars.
At any rate, I'm enjoying watching your progress!
I do agree. I have and still refer to a lot of the older cars for those same reasons but its really hard to directly compare as the tires of those years were junk compared to what we run now plus most had double wishbones vs macpherson. I will definitely add the rear bar if its needed but will try other options first, the bar is still bolted on and all I have to do is connect a end link :) As LOF mentioned Hoosiers seem to want a lot of camber and for reference most of the vette's I see around here run about 3* static and achieve about 4.5* dynamic due to the beautiful camber curve. Maybe one day I'll pull a kartermb and build one for the front.
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Here are some shots from Hastings, you can see the car is rolling over pretty good but damn does it feel nice, feel even better with the front dialed in.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_10/medium_8499.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=8499)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_10/medium_8500.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=8500)
Did find some free camber up front which was nice. I ground down the edges of the spindles smooth where the strut ears mount to them which allowed me to use the entire upper slot on the coil over ear netting -4.2* on each side with the upper plates maxed along with 6mm clearance from the tire to the spring perch :) We will see what that does, hopefully its close to what it needs. Also found the left front tie rod was bad so I got that swapped out. So off to High Plains Raceway this weekend :cheers:
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_10/medium_8502.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=8502)
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Is your rear fender cut along the radius to let you lower ride height, or did you leave it in tact?
Also - lexan windshield. Prefab, or did you cut it yourself? Was wondering if anyone made a prefab with mar-guard, because buying a 4x8 sheet of the good stuff that won't net me two full windows out of is sucky and expensive!
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Love the windshield decal. ;)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_10/medium_8502.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=8502)
But I'm sure you knew that already.
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Is your rear fender cut along the radius to let you lower ride height, or did you leave it in tact?
Also - lexan windshield. Prefab, or did you cut it yourself? Was wondering if anyone made a prefab with mar-guard, because buying a 4x8 sheet of the good stuff that won't net me two full windows out of is sucky and expensive!
I have shaved a little on the inside edges of the fenders but other than that its the way they come from Ronin. I did use bed liner on the rear edges of the quarters and will do so on the front fenders as well to protect the body work, it just makes the back of the wheel wells look a little larger in photos.
I cut the windshield myself and yeah I feel your pain, fun to waste a large sheet to do it. Since this was my first one I have ever done I did it in plain polycarbonate and learned a lot in the process, edges aren't perfectly straight but surprisingly the plain poly is very scratch resistant, especially if you wax it. I figure when I need to change it out in a year i'll get the mylogard coated version now that I have a good template.
I will be getting a rear window from optic armor, they make windshields as well for these. http://opticarmorwindows.com/ (http://opticarmorwindows.com/) I thought about doing one myself but the rears don't really wear out and I want it to be optically correct, not all funhouse mirror looking.
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Love the windshield decal. ;)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_10/medium_8502.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=8502)
But I'm sure you knew that already.
Haha I actually had a hard time making up my mind on what colors I wanted to use, red with black or black with red. I will might try the other just for the hell of it.
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Two things:
1) I think the methodical approach you're taking is spot on. That's good info about the camber the 'vettes are running with hoosiers, you may well find that 4+ degrees of camber is truly what the car needs.
2) Damn, but that is one tough-looking, beautiful car!
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Is your rear fender cut along the radius to let you lower ride height, or did you leave it in tact?
Also - lexan windshield. Prefab, or did you cut it yourself? Was wondering if anyone made a prefab with mar-guard, because buying a 4x8 sheet of the good stuff that won't net me two full windows out of is sucky and expensive!
I have shaved a little on the inside edges of the fenders but other than that its the way they come from Ronin. I did use bed liner on the rear edges of the quarters and will do so on the front fenders as well to protect the body work, it just makes the back of the wheel wells look a little larger in photos.
I cut the windshield myself and yeah I feel your pain, fun to waste a large sheet to do it. Since this was my first one I have ever done I did it in plain polycarbonate and learned a lot in the process, edges aren't perfectly straight but surprisingly the plain poly is very scratch resistant, especially if you wax it. I figure when I need to change it out in a year i'll get the mylogard coated version now that I have a good template.
I will be getting a rear window from optic armor, they make windshields as well for these. http://opticarmorwindows.com/ (http://opticarmorwindows.com/) I thought about doing one myself but the rears don't really wear out and I want it to be optically correct, not all funhouse mirror looking.
Sorry, when I mentioned rear quarters, I meant the factory rear quarters. Mine are in tact, my flares just keep the airflow off the back tires.
Part of my hesitation on the windshield is the fact that I'm required to keep my wipers and use them on occasion, which is why I'd have to go with the coated option if I go that path. The rear glass I am using the cheap stuff, and I have the original glass to make the template from. I will just clamp the sheet to the old glass and trace. When I've made those in the past, I find that making an interior strap with a truss on it that follows the contour of the factory glass is the best way to keep the rear window from distorting/oil canning.
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Is your rear fender cut along the radius to let you lower ride height, or did you leave it in tact?
Also - lexan windshield. Prefab, or did you cut it yourself? Was wondering if anyone made a prefab with mar-guard, because buying a 4x8 sheet of the good stuff that won't net me two full windows out of is sucky and expensive!
I have shaved a little on the inside edges of the fenders but other than that its the way they come from Ronin. I did use bed liner on the rear edges of the quarters and will do so on the front fenders as well to protect the body work, it just makes the back of the wheel wells look a little larger in photos.
I cut the windshield myself and yeah I feel your pain, fun to waste a large sheet to do it. Since this was my first one I have ever done I did it in plain polycarbonate and learned a lot in the process, edges aren't perfectly straight but surprisingly the plain poly is very scratch resistant, especially if you wax it. I figure when I need to change it out in a year i'll get the mylogard coated version now that I have a good template.
I will be getting a rear window from optic armor, they make windshields as well for these. http://opticarmorwindows.com/ (http://opticarmorwindows.com/) I thought about doing one myself but the rears don't really wear out and I want it to be optically correct, not all funhouse mirror looking.
Sorry, when I mentioned rear quarters, I meant the factory rear quarters. Mine are in tact, my flares just keep the airflow off the back tires.
Part of my hesitation on the windshield is the fact that I'm required to keep my wipers and use them on occasion, which is why I'd have to go with the coated option if I go that path. The rear glass I am using the cheap stuff, and I have the original glass to make the template from. I will just clamp the sheet to the old glass and trace. When I've made those in the past, I find that making an interior strap with a truss on it that follows the contour of the factory glass is the best way to keep the rear window from distorting/oil canning.
Oh! Sorry, yeah I cut the factory quarters to the top of the wheel well then extended that out to the quarter extension, tried to make it look factory.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_4/medium_5420.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=5420)
For some reason I don't have any pics of the sheet metal I welded to extend the tub.
I understand the wiper issue, I tried mine and it doesn't seem to hurt it but I imagine if you did it dry it would scratch the hell out of it but when used wet and after waxing you cant tell I ran the wipers. Granted I only ran it for a few minutes just to test it out as I was curious as well.
I was going to do the rear until I found those pre-molded coated units with tint. The windshield I plan on replacing every year so I wanted to go the cheapest and easiest route possible, end of the year they look like a sand blaster hit them :( Its only 89.00 for a 1/4" sheet of mylar brand at cope plastics, how much is a sheet for you?
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Thanks. That trim may be in my future, but for now, I run a relatively tall ride height and haven't had any issues.
I want to say GE Marguard in 3/16" was in the $350+ range per sheet. I think I paid about $80 for 1/8" uncoated for the back! I like glass windshields, but with so much going on above and behind my dash, I would really like to have a windshield that is removable for service with countersunk stainless screws.
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This may be too pricey, but there is a company that custom makes polycarb replacements, they have the marguard and what not.
http://www.plastics4performance.com/ (http://www.plastics4performance.com/)
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I haven't been on in awhile, looks fantastic man! Great as always in all aspects
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Can you share some more on the rear hatch. You do or will have an optic armor unit? Tinted? Cost? Can it be installed like stock glass?
Thanks man
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Can you share some more on the rear hatch. You do or will have an optic armor unit? Tinted? Cost? Can it be installed like stock glass?
Thanks man
I will have a unit from them, 2 week lead time, two different levels of tint, one like my 20% tint and one like a 40% light tint. 350.00 for the clear and 400.00 for tinted. Its pre molded and installs like stock glass, edges are blacked out like factory. Does need to be trimmed to use factory moldings.
They make every piece of glass for our cars, windshield and side windows.
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I'm going to be ordering one of their hatch glass setups pretty soon as well.
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Where are they based out of? I imagine shipping on one of their windshields is pretty brutal, but I don't have any glass to use as a template anymore. I'm a bit bummed that the windshields are trim to fit, though.
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Car is looking awesome...Window looks legit.
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I'm going to be ordering one of their hatch glass setups pretty soon as well.
I might pull the trigger this week as I was wanting to change that out and finish gutting the doors, pretty much the last two things that are heavy in the car.
Pretty good weekend of racing. Got second place out of a decent sized field and suspension wise the car performed well, small adjustments in the dampner's, front camber set at 4.2*/rear camber 1.7* and backing the front bar up a notch makes it work pretty good, going to send the dampner's in for a re-valve as I feel that's the last step for now.
Brakes though were another story :( Fronts would boil the fluid in about 4-5 laps with or with out the brake ducts, pretty much a repeat of Hastings a few weeks ago. After looking at things when I got back from Colorado I found that the fronts were dragging just a little due to the fact the front master was not retracting fully due to the balance bar being to far one direction :'( originally I thought it was just the new pads I installed with the knock back springs dragging but as soon as I released the pedal the master moved slightly and the wheels spin awesome, so at least I know how to fix it!
Here's a vid, you can see the fronts go away and the rears start locking a few laps in
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZYKCCSH_1-c (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZYKCCSH_1-c)
Data in that vid is not real accurate, speed and g's are not correct, I think elevation might be? My new garmin should be to me this week!
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Car is looking awesome...Window looks legit.
Thanks man
Where are they based out of? I imagine shipping on one of their windshields is pretty brutal, but I don't have any glass to use as a template anymore. I'm a bit bummed that the windshields are trim to fit, though.
They are in MO. I bet its about 100.00 to ship a windshield? jdunham@opticarmorwindows.com Jim Dunham is the guy to email about it. Trimming is easy especially if you use a router!
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Thanks so much man!
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What fluid are you running? I assume Castrol SRF or something similar.
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What fluid are you running? I assume Castrol SRF or something similar.
I am running Wilwood 570 at the moment. I have been thinking about changing fluids and Castrol was one of them, have any experience with various fluids?
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We've run SRF since the beginning and never had an issue. Just changed pad compounds and Russ is testing on Wednesday at AMP.
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Kind of a random but did you ever remove the crash bars in the doors? I had mine apart to do a door handle and was bored so I pulled them both out completely. Was more weight than I anticipated, right at 24lbs both sides
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s167/rotary1307cc/IMG_20160911_105449698_HDR_zpsemwpw3mw.jpg) (http://s152.photobucket.com/user/rotary1307cc/media/IMG_20160911_105449698_HDR_zpsemwpw3mw.jpg.html)
Have any better pics of the door panels you did I was eyeing that today aswell. Seems like you could keep it clean and nice fairly easy
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Car is looking awesome...Window looks legit.
Thanks man
Where are they based out of? I imagine shipping on one of their windshields is pretty brutal, but I don't have any glass to use as a template anymore. I'm a bit bummed that the windshields are trim to fit, though.
They are in MO. I bet its about 100.00 to ship a windshield? jdunham@opticarmorwindows.com Jim Dunham is the guy to email about it. Trimming is easy especially if you use a router!
$60 shipping from MO, not bad. Bummed that they don't come with a DIBO option, so I have to do the blackout myself, which is a PITA. Looks like if I go that route, it will run me about $530 plus my labor for the 1/4" with an OEM curve. If I make one out of Lexan sheet, the MR10 in 1/4" is $345/4x8 sheet. I will probably go the optic armor route just for the convenience of not having to track down another windshield to make a template from.
Side note: 1/4" sucks to work with, but required for SCCA.
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Kind of a random but did you ever remove the crash bars in the doors? I had mine apart to do a door handle and was bored so I pulled them both out completely. Was more weight than I anticipated, right at 24lbs both sides
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s167/rotary1307cc/IMG_20160911_105449698_HDR_zpsemwpw3mw.jpg) (http://s152.photobucket.com/user/rotary1307cc/media/IMG_20160911_105449698_HDR_zpsemwpw3mw.jpg.html)
Have any better pics of the door panels you did I was eyeing that today aswell. Seems like you could keep it clean and nice fairly easy
Wow, I had not yet but that was on the list! Was it hard to remove the beams with out damaging the outside paint? are they glued or spot welded? I just don't want to jack up the paint.
I will get some better shots of the panels for you. The way they cover everything I can completely gut the doors and you can't tell. They are .050 aluminum.
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Car is looking awesome...Window looks legit.
Thanks man
Where are they based out of? I imagine shipping on one of their windshields is pretty brutal, but I don't have any glass to use as a template anymore. I'm a bit bummed that the windshields are trim to fit, though.
They are in MO. I bet its about 100.00 to ship a windshield? jdunham@opticarmorwindows.com Jim Dunham is the guy to email about it. Trimming is easy especially if you use a router!
$60 shipping from MO, not bad. Bummed that they don't come with a DIBO option, so I have to do the blackout myself, which is a PITA. Looks like if I go that route, it will run me about $530 plus my labor for the 1/4" with an OEM curve. If I make one out of Lexan sheet, the MR10 in 1/4" is $345/4x8 sheet. I will probably go the optic armor route just for the convenience of not having to track down another windshield to make a template from.
Side note: 1/4" sucks to work with, but required for SCCA.
Well that sucks they don't have the DIBO, I thought they did when I called the first time :( at least its not hard to black out the edges. I went with 1/4" for the windshield as well, still debating on the .093 or the .125 thick rear window from them. Probably going to need reinforcement for either but I am afraid the .093 will distort too much.
I wonder if they would do a group discount if we could get a few of us together? maybe free shipping or something?
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Kind of a random but did you ever remove the crash bars in the doors? I had mine apart to do a door handle and was bored so I pulled them both out completely. Was more weight than I anticipated, right at 24lbs both sides
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s167/rotary1307cc/IMG_20160911_105449698_HDR_zpsemwpw3mw.jpg) (http://s152.photobucket.com/user/rotary1307cc/media/IMG_20160911_105449698_HDR_zpsemwpw3mw.jpg.html)
Have any better pics of the door panels you did I was eyeing that today aswell. Seems like you could keep it clean and nice fairly easy
Wow, I had not yet but that was on the list! Was it hard to remove the beams with out damaging the outside paint? are they glued or spot welded? I just don't want to jack up the paint.
I will get some better shots of the panels for you. The way they cover everything I can completely gut the doors and you can't tell. They are .050 aluminum.
I'm interested as well. I want to remove this,but keep my stock door panels.
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Car is looking awesome...Window looks legit.
Thanks man
Where are they based out of? I imagine shipping on one of their windshields is pretty brutal, but I don't have any glass to use as a template anymore. I'm a bit bummed that the windshields are trim to fit, though.
They are in MO. I bet its about 100.00 to ship a windshield? jdunham@opticarmorwindows.com Jim Dunham is the guy to email about it. Trimming is easy especially if you use a router!
$60 shipping from MO, not bad. Bummed that they don't come with a DIBO option, so I have to do the blackout myself, which is a PITA. Looks like if I go that route, it will run me about $530 plus my labor for the 1/4" with an OEM curve. If I make one out of Lexan sheet, the MR10 in 1/4" is $345/4x8 sheet. I will probably go the optic armor route just for the convenience of not having to track down another windshield to make a template from.
Side note: 1/4" sucks to work with, but required for SCCA.
Well that sucks they don't have the DIBO, I thought they did when I called the first time :( at least its not hard to black out the edges. I went with 1/4" for the windshield as well, still debating on the .093 or the .125 thick rear window from them. Probably going to need reinforcement for either but I am afraid the .093 will distort too much.
I wonder if they would do a group discount if we could get a few of us together? maybe free shipping or something?
If they're willing to, let me know! I'm not in a huge rush. Painting the edges isn't bad, but you have to sand the ever living shit out of the coated lexan to make it stick.
I went with 1/8" for the rear hatch and have plans to run two trusses on the interior of the glass to retain its shape. Don't want that rear glass moving around too much, it feeds the wing!
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I'm in on a rear window. I'll grab a pic from the doors to explain
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Car is looking awesome...Window looks legit.
Thanks man
Where are they based out of? I imagine shipping on one of their windshields is pretty brutal, but I don't have any glass to use as a template anymore. I'm a bit bummed that the windshields are trim to fit, though.
They are in MO. I bet its about 100.00 to ship a windshield? jdunham@opticarmorwindows.com Jim Dunham is the guy to email about it. Trimming is easy especially if you use a router!
$60 shipping from MO, not bad. Bummed that they don't come with a DIBO option, so I have to do the blackout myself, which is a PITA. Looks like if I go that route, it will run me about $530 plus my labor for the 1/4" with an OEM curve. If I make one out of Lexan sheet, the MR10 in 1/4" is $345/4x8 sheet. I will probably go the optic armor route just for the convenience of not having to track down another windshield to make a template from.
Side note: 1/4" sucks to work with, but required for SCCA.
Well that sucks they don't have the DIBO, I thought they did when I called the first time :( at least its not hard to black out the edges. I went with 1/4" for the windshield as well, still debating on the .093 or the .125 thick rear window from them. Probably going to need reinforcement for either but I am afraid the .093 will distort too much.
I wonder if they would do a group discount if we could get a few of us together? maybe free shipping or something?
If they're willing to, let me know! I'm not in a huge rush. Painting the edges isn't bad, but you have to sand the ever living shit out of the coated lexan to make it stick.
I went with 1/8" for the rear hatch and have plans to run two trusses on the interior of the glass to retain its shape. Don't want that rear glass moving around too much, it feeds the wing!
Use Lexan paint for RC cars. It will stick to the back of polycarbonate and lexan Windows.
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I'll grab a pic from the doors to explain
OK great!
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A guy could cut most the framework of the bar with a dremel and leave some with all the spot welds, would be a pita though for sure.
It was quick and very clean to remove the spot welds. I just used a small pilot and a 5/16 bit. Just be careful and you will even touch the exterior panel with a bit.
I just need some small button plugs,I don't have any yet
Cut the bar in half before you drill the spot welds.
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s167/rotary1307cc/IMG_20160914_182740638_HDR_zpsm8chvc64.jpg) (http://s152.photobucket.com/user/rotary1307cc/media/IMG_20160914_182740638_HDR_zpsm8chvc64.jpg.html)
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any more pics zack?
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A guy could cut most the framework of the bar with a dremel and leave some with all the spot welds, would be a pita though for sure.
It was quick and very clean to remove the spot welds. I just used a small pilot and a 5/16 bit. Just be careful and you will even touch the exterior panel with a bit.
I just need some small button plugs,I don't have any yet
Cut the bar in half before you drill the spot welds.
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s167/rotary1307cc/IMG_20160914_182740638_HDR_zpsm8chvc64.jpg) (http://s152.photobucket.com/user/rotary1307cc/media/IMG_20160914_182740638_HDR_zpsm8chvc64.jpg.html)
Thanks Zack
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any more pics zack?
Unbolt and remove door catch from door, remove window and unbolt regulator so it is loose in the door
3/4 the way back on the door access hole cut the crash bar in half (door panels back on so no pics)
On the rear of the door there are 6 spot welds on the one flange, and 3 on the other flange, you can see them clearly in the steel.
Don't drill all the way through the actual crash bar, there is no need to, the spot welds will pop before you do and then no chance of hitting the outer panel.
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s167/rotary1307cc/IMG_20160914_182740638_HDR_zpsm8chvc64.jpg) (http://s152.photobucket.com/user/rotary1307cc/media/IMG_20160914_182740638_HDR_zpsm8chvc64.jpg.html)
The front has the same 6 spot welds on the same flange. And 2 on the other flange. To drill the 2 you would have to remove the door, I wasn't doing that. So I used a dremel to cut the small 1" wide flange in the door
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s167/rotary1307cc/IMG_20160923_105039874_zpssovfgtww.jpg) (http://s152.photobucket.com/user/rotary1307cc/media/IMG_20160923_105039874_zpssovfgtww.jpg.html)
Cut here
(http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s167/rotary1307cc/IMG_20160923_105131456_zpsoljxnhe8.jpg) (http://s152.photobucket.com/user/rotary1307cc/media/IMG_20160923_105131456_zpsoljxnhe8.jpg.html)
Slide the front portion of the bar out first. Rear second. I trimmed the hole slightly larger
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Wow you made that job super easy for me.... I was about to start hacking everything away hahaha
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We'll things keep getting better and more problems arise. Finished out the season in third over all, not to bad considering I missed out on the first half if the season. Solved my brake issues by adjusting the balance bar for the pedals better and switching to Castrol SRF fluid, pedal is awesome and consistent again, time to build up the confidence level!
Fixed my throttle pedal issues I was having by increasing the throttle pedal throw by extending the arm on the switch, much better modulation versus a on off feeling.
Suspension is another story :( you can definetely tell the dampers are way wrong and need valved correctly, the car bottoms out under acceleraton out of the corners - not enough compression. Rebound is way to weak as well but truthfully I am happy that things have finally boiled down to just a revalve!
Here is a vid of a little testing this past Saturday at a open lapping day. Only aggrivation with open lapping is having to wait for the point by and only on the left :( which I understand, someone would freak if I bombed them into a braking zone.
https://youtu.be/H4dsSpRYLZQ
So now on to winter improvements! More aero - install my rear wing, build a larger splitter, rocker extensions. More weight reduction - finish gutting the doors as Zach did, install the rear poly wind screen, change exhaust up to become side exit through the new rocker extensions. I am also going to strip the front aprons and do a tube skeleton to make the front bumper and splitter easy to remove via zuess or button fastners, should reduce weight while I'm at it! :cheers:
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You don't have an open passing "advanced" group for the track days out there?
Nice video! The car sounds great. Is your camera on a articulating mount or does the camera do something when you turns? The picture looks like it moves when you turn.
Yea it looks like the car is hopping around on corner exit, but that could be the camera making it look worse than it is. I liked that Pro Touring International Scout. :wave:
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You don't have an open passing "advanced" group for the track days out there?
Nice video! The car sounds great. Is your camera on a articulating mount or does the camera do something when you turns? The picture looks like it moves when you turn.
Yea it looks like the car is hopping around on corner exit, but that could be the camera making it look worse than it is. I liked that Pro Touring International Scout. :wave:
We do, this was just something the track put on at the end of the year. I normally don't ever go to these types of events anymore but it was wonderful weather and only 60 bucks for the day :) It was good for some testing and running over people :)
The bouncing is quite bad and the opposite, worse than what the camera show.
The camera/lens has a feature that it try's to focus on things and moves around sometimes, I'm going to shut that off. It has far more features than I know what to do with but it is stationary. That scout was awesome, had a 350 with a t5 trans on a s10 chassis.
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You don't have an open passing "advanced" group for the track days out there?
Nice video! The car sounds great. Is your camera on a articulating mount or does the camera do something when you turns? The picture looks like it moves when you turn.
Yea it looks like the car is hopping around on corner exit, but that could be the camera making it look worse than it is. I liked that Pro Touring International Scout. :wave:
We do, this was just something the track put on at the end of the year. I normally don't ever go to these types of events anymore but it was wonderful weather and only 60 bucks for the day :) It was good for some testing and running over people :)
The bouncing is quite bad and the opposite, worse than what the camera show.
The camera/lens has a feature that it try's to focus on things and moves around sometimes, I'm going to shut that off. It has far more features than I know what to do with but it is stationary. That scout was awesome, had a 350 with a t5 trans on a s10 chassis.
You cant shake a stick at 60 bucks for a track day! I need to start doing more competition events next year. The nice thing about So Cal is that at the better track days there are enough race cars there to gauge how quick you are.
Did that software for telemetry come with the camera? Is the GPS built in? I use the IO port camera mount.. It is heavy but seems to work really well. I got one used on ebay for about half what they cost new. I also still need to get my rear shocks revalved.
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I'm also interested in that camera.
What model is it, and is the telemetry integrated?
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You cant shake a stick at 60 bucks for a track day! I need to start doing more competition events next year. The nice thing about So Cal is that at the better track days there are enough race cars there to gauge how quick you are.
Did that software for telemetry come with the camera? Is the GPS built in? I use the IO port camera mount.. It is heavy but seems to work really well. I got one used on ebay for about half what they cost new. I also still need to get my rear shocks revalved.
Yes! More competition events for sure, its amazing how much faster a person gets naturally just running with a faster group. The race cars around here really only compete so its a rarity to find one at a track day, though this weekend a couple guys did have some legit race cars, a boxster and a c5, but the owners were novices and didn't know what they were doing. Fast down the straight and panic in the corners!
Yes, it has gps, lap timer (which I just figured out last night) g force (which it divides up into multiple things), pitch/roll, slide/skid, speed, barometric pressure, track map-mapping, multiple lens settings and other stuff I haven't touched yet!.
I am using a clamp on roll bar mount for a go pro I got at best buy and a suction cup- all go pro mounts interchange which is nice as I already had them.
I am debating on having my dampers upgraded to the modular double adjustable but still trying to accept the price :( I know it would be a great asset but its a lot of money. I have contingency from fortune so a revalve/rebuild/sweep dyno only runs a couple hundred but the upgrade would be as much as the coil overs were originally and puts them as the same price as Motons :(
I'm also interested in that camera.
What model is it, and is the telemetry integrated?
It a Garmin Virb XE, they just released it the beginning of September and all telemetry is integrated. So easy to use also, you can blue tooth control or just a simple switch or the touch screen on the back. Switch on, it films automatically with a green blinking light, switch off and it blinks red and done. Downloading of multiple sessions takes only a few minutes using a SD card reader and the free Garmin software, has utube, facebook and multiple other social media integration's built in for sharing.
You can also customize the screen telemetry layout, gauge designs and colors. It has a lot of stuff to keep yourself entertained haha
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Akina - one more windshield related question for you. How did you mount to the windshield perimeter? Drill and tap factory sheet metal? Self tappers? Nutserts? It doesn't look like there's much meat to secure to around the perimeter on the FC windshield channel, and I was contemplating going back and welding tabs in place. I would like to keep things reasonably removable because the car is WAY easier to service without the glass in place. I'm contemplating even building a separate "mini frame" just to fasten the glass to, so that the glass can be removed in its entirety by a few screws from the interior and undoing the retention strips, rather than having to go around and undo a zillion allen screws every time.
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Weld in tabs and use Dzus fasteners.
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I contemplated it, but you have to move the fasteners pretty far inboard to have room for the tabs, and due to the size of the countersink required to flush out the heads.
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I used rivnuts Supe, 1/4 -20 and button head allen bolts. Ill most likely rivet the rear window in, hopefully it arrives friday :cheers:
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I used rivnuts Supe, 1/4 -20 and button head allen bolts. Ill most likely rivet the rear window in, hopefully it arrives friday :cheers:
Thanks. I'll guess I'll have to scrape the window adhesive off completely and take a closer look at how much meat the pillars have.
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Bump
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Sorry for the lack of updates, been working on everyone else's race cars at the moment! Finishing up a LS3 swap in a miata for st1/tt1 and two ptd miata builds.
Did finally get started on my car this weekend. After a some trial and error I got the back window semi installed last night. Word to the wise, DO NOT use a fast spinning sanding disc when trying to strip the hard coating on these windows, it will heat and cool the poly rapidly and leave fractures under the surface :( I did that the first time and did not see them until I painted the edges, It makes it look like it has hundreds of finger prints under the surface. I ended up stripping and sanding it all down to get rid of them, I spent about 20 hours in all when it should have taken me about 4 hours to cut, trim, sand, paint and install. In the end it's turning out nice though.
Same install like the front, 1/4x20 rivnuts and stainless button heads. Thickness is .125 and its the one from optic-armor.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_10/medium_8969.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=8969)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_10/medium_8970.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=8970)
Changing rear springs a little, going up to a 6kg rear - 336lb- from the 5kg/280lb plus put the rear bar back on. Also finishing the front splitter up over the next weekend hopefully, made it from 3/8" black HDPE and 4130 moly rod/plate with quick pins for mouting. I'll make sure to get more pic's :cheers:
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Awesome Erik!
I wanted to drop my rear spring rate to 350 while I had my rear shocks off being revalved.. but I got the last 350lb PAC spring and now they are backordered. Waiting for another one now. I may have to stay with 400s in the meantime.
I don't know if you got your shocks revalved yet or not, but don't believe them when they say it takes a week or 2. Mine took about a month, but they upgraded them for free.
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Awesome Erik!
I wanted to drop my rear spring rate to 350 while I had my rear shocks off being revalved.. but I got the last 350lb PAC spring and now they are backordered. Waiting for another one now. I may have to stay with 400s in the meantime.
I don't know if you got your shocks revalved yet or not, but don't believe them when they say it takes a week or 2. Mine took about a month, but they upgraded them for free.
if you ordered your PAC spring from somewhere like summit, you might never get it if it's backordered.
summit (usually amazing customer service) continually told me they are on factory backorder, and the estimated ship date kept being pushed back for months.
I ended up contacting PAC directly and they shipped me a black spring that same day, they apparently were just out of orange springs.... as if i cared about the colors!
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This spring is ordered from PAC direct, which was dumb because Summit is actually cheaper. I've tried to call them a couple times but no one answers the phone. I'll try again tomorrow, perhaps I can ask for black. I have not put the rear shocks back in the car yet, so there is still a little time.
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Glad to see you guys hovering around the 350 lbs mark. Maybe I did something right when I went 525/350 lbs on the springs a few years back!
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Glad to see you guys hovering around the 350 lbs mark. Maybe I did something right when I went 525/350 lbs on the springs a few years back!
Awesome Erik!
I wanted to drop my rear spring rate to 350 while I had my rear shocks off being revalved.. but I got the last 350lb PAC spring and now they are backordered. Waiting for another one now. I may have to stay with 400s in the meantime.
I don't know if you got your shocks revalved yet or not, but don't believe them when they say it takes a week or 2. Mine took about a month, but they upgraded them for free.
Yeah I think that 350 number in the rear is probably pretty close to perfect, even with big sticky tires and a large wing. 280 and no bar was just a little to soft in the rear and would bottom out under heavy throttle on the outside under longer duration corners but the grip was awesome, it would hook up wonderfully in third gear. So adding 50 and a small bar should be just enough I think to keep it off the stops, we will see in a few weeks.
I wondered about the re-valve, my back window was the same scenario - said 2 weeks, takes a month. I was going to wait and get the springs dialed in first then send the shocks in when said and done. I'm using swifts, 8' tall in the rear and 7" in the front, 65mm.
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Nice. I'm running PAC springs, 2.5 ID, 6 inch front and 7 inch out back.
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window look slick. Can you tint it like glass.
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window look slick. Can you tint it like glass.
No, the coating they put on it that prevents scratches will not let just about anything stick. hell you can slide a razor on it like glass to remove overspray, pretty cool stuff. BUT you can have them tint it like factory glass for about 40 bucks more. :cheers:
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did you need to trim it to fit? and if so how hard was it? I heard cutting it is a gentle procedure or it cracks and I am nervous to buy one and start cutting it since I never did it before.
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did you need to trim it to fit? and if so how hard was it? I heard cutting it is a gentle procedure or it cracks and I am nervous to buy one and start cutting it since I never did it before.
Yes, it comes over sized by about a inch all the way around and its not hard to fit it. I sat the window on the back of the car, traced the area i wanted to cut with a black sharpie, cut it with a jigsaw and a 14 tpi blade - dont use any higher tooth count as it will cause problems - after trimming I block sanded the edges straight and sanded the corners to fit, just make sure to hand sand or use a orbital sander to strip the coating on the edges if you want to black out the corners to look like a factory glass. Cracking is not a issue, you have to completely fold it over to get it to split, but it will not crack. :cheers:
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Acrylic will crack if you cut it wrong, lexan/polycarbonate should not. As noted, too fine a blade is bad, as you will melt the lexan, which can induce cracking. You should also avoid using loctite or other thread sealants, as they can attack the plastics (which can play a part in radial cracks around the holes.)
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We'll here is the final weight for now but I am still trying to come up with ways to remove more and shift weight where i need it, especially on the front but I am out of time for a little while as the season has started and I needed to weigh in for class. This is full wet with 9 gallons of fuel.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_10/medium_9058.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=9058)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_10/medium_9059.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=9059)
with the nut in the drivers seat
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_10/medium_9060.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=9060)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_10/medium_9061.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=9061)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_10/medium_9062.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=9062)
Both doors gutted was worth 48lbs, rear window and such was worth about 40lbs and a bunch of little pieces in the car as well. Working out what sheet metal i can remove now and not doink my self in class points, relocating some things as far rear passenger side as I can.
I can still remove the passenger seat and brackets/belts which is worth probably 20lbs total but I have a lot of friends that like riding and I will be entering some other races here soon like the sand hills and silver state for fun, always wanted to do those.
Off to Gateway this weekend!! :cheers:
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So after a good bit of experience with both setups do you ever miss the blower?
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Good luck this weekend! You are really taking some weight off. I need to get mine back on the scales to see what my weight is these days. That is a lot of weight out of the doors!
I'm sure he will say the car is much better on track and easier to drive without the blower.
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So after a good bit of experience with both setups do you ever miss the blower?
I do, it was a lot of fun but always a battle to control it, lots of wheel spin, hard on parts. Ash is right its way easier to drive NA, 5-600 NA hp is about perfect for road course usage in a door slammer especially this light. The main thing in all actuality is the blower puts me into unlimited classing which to me isn't much fun, you're really just making laps at that point, not competing.
Good luck this weekend! You are really taking some weight off. I need to get mine back on the scales to see what my weight is these days. That is a lot of weight out of the doors!
I'm sure he will say the car is much better on track and easier to drive without the blower.
Thanks! I'm trying, still have some low hanging fruit to remove, not a ton though. I am debating on tube framing from the strut towers forward, bad thing is I get hit with a .4 p/w ratio addition for none production status so is it really worth it in the end. I can mod the rear floor area, cut the spare tire well out, trim some sheet metal in back and locate the surge tank and battery all the way to the passenger side (right now they're in the spare tire well) but its getting pretty light in the rear, I really want to take more weight out of the front but its going to take some thought.
Even with pulling all that weight out of the doors I am thinking about getting the supernow carbon doors or some frp ones, should be worth another 20 or so lbs. I don't drive in the rain and don't need reinforcement for safety. If you have any ideas of something to change I'm all ears!
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I do, it was a lot of fun but always a battle to control it, lots of wheel spin, hard on parts. Ash is right its way easier to drive NA, 5-600 NA hp is about perfect for road course usage in a door slammer especially this light. The main thing in all actuality is the blower puts me into unlimited classing which to me isn't much fun, you're really just making laps at that point, not competing.
I think you are talking WHP Erik?
I agree on that power number for a car like yours with a wide body, aero and giant tires. :) If I had that much power in my car the way it is now I think I'd wake up dead.
I don't know that there is a ton of weight to take off the front. The suspension is pretty light and I would not cut much weight there. All your body panels are composite.. I think you (and I) are to the point where we are going to remove 1oz 1000 times taking weight off every little piece you can and see where the weight ends up. In the end I think it is better to move as much as you can to the back. Interestingly enough I was at 51.8% on the front tires with me in the car as well, but we are trying to fix something that is already pretty damn good as is.
I was at 2908# total with a full tank of gas and me in the car a couple years ago.
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As someone who has a very, very minimal tube front end, I would make it the very last thing you do to the car. As was said, if you have all glass panels, you've addressed most of the weight, and the car is really susceptible to crash damage.
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Doors will make a HUGE difference though. Even my gutted doors weighed a f-ton (didn't actually weigh them, but they're surprisingly heavy). I only run door skins, but I would get the carbon over FRP if you can afford it. The top of the window frame area can be really flimsy on the FRP doors.
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Thoughts for weight reduction:
braided lines swap for the nylon ones
stainless hardware for non bearing bolts
drop powersteering, lose serp. belt and go alternator tension only from BMR: http://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=products&productid=248 (http://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=products&productid=248)
fixed seat brackets (not sure if you have these - but sliders are heavy)
Ditch pass seat
Fixed seat belts rather than inertia reels
Shorten exhaust, exit behind front wheels
change remaining exhaust to aluminum/ti
change bracing/supports/subframe to Al, Ti
fixed headlights
lighter driveshaft
lighter flywheel, clutch
lighter engine components
Most all of this comes with compromises you prolly don't want to make. But in case you had not considered...
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I do, it was a lot of fun but always a battle to control it, lots of wheel spin, hard on parts. Ash is right its way easier to drive NA, 5-600 NA hp is about perfect for road course usage in a door slammer especially this light. The main thing in all actuality is the blower puts me into unlimited classing which to me isn't much fun, you're really just making laps at that point, not competing.
I think you are talking WHP Erik?
I agree on that power number for a car like yours with a wide body, aero and giant tires. :) If I had that much power in my car the way it is now I think I'd wake up dead.
I don't know that there is a ton of weight to take off the front. The suspension is pretty light and I would not cut much weight there. All your body panels are composite.. I think you (and I) are to the point where we are going to remove 1oz 1000 times taking weight off every little piece you can and see where the weight ends up. In the end I think it is better to move as much as you can to the back. Interestingly enough I was at 51.8% on the front tires with me in the car as well, but we are trying to fix something that is already pretty damn good as is.
I was at 2908# total with a full tank of gas and me in the car a couple years ago.
Yeah not much left but 1lb here 1lb there, I did get a few ideas this weekend wondering around and looking at the prototype cars a little closer, I think i can get down to the 2780 limit
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Doors will make a HUGE difference though. Even my gutted doors weighed a f-ton (didn't actually weigh them, but they're surprisingly heavy). I only run door skins, but I would get the carbon over FRP if you can afford it. The top of the window frame area can be really flimsy on the FRP doors.
As someone who has a very, very minimal tube front end, I would make it the very last thing you do to the car. As was said, if you have all glass panels, you've addressed most of the weight, and the car is really susceptible to crash damage.
I wish we had numbers on the composite doors but i guess we will once I get some. I don't know if the budget will allow the carbon onese this year but even if I have to wait a while i'll probably do it.
Yeah I think i have given up on the idea of a tube frame front for now as it adds .4 to the power to weight ratio, i already have a +.1 for sub 3k lbs, the next mark is 2600 so i'm a ways from that.
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Well the weekend went awesome! 1st place in TT1, set the track record for TT1 by .035! 4th fastest in the whole field, were starting to get somewhere finally!
I went up 50lbs in the rear and added the tanabe sway bar back, car is rotating nicely at lower speeds again, putting power down is about perfect. No more bottoming out, car transitions wonderfully. The driver was completely the reason it wasn't faster, I really need to get my g2x in the car to start working harder on myself with data. I am almost afraid to put the big splitter and wing on it and upset the balance of the car!
One big thanks to Ash for telling me what to torque the front bearings to, it worked perfect and got rid of a TON of pad knock back. I'm going to install the bearing spacers in the next few weekends that I bought from Eage8 in hopes that will improve things a little more.
Feels really good to be heading in the right direction.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_10/medium_9071.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=9071)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_10/medium_9072.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=9072)
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https://youtu.be/R2uKWr4e_7I
Small clip from the weekend :cheers:
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Thoughts for weight reduction:
braided lines swap for the nylon ones
stainless hardware for non bearing bolts
drop powersteering, lose serp. belt and go alternator tension only from BMR: http://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=products&productid=248 (http://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=products&productid=248)
fixed seat brackets (not sure if you have these - but sliders are heavy)
Ditch pass seat
Fixed seat belts rather than inertia reels
Shorten exhaust, exit behind front wheels
change remaining exhaust to aluminum/ti
change bracing/supports/subframe to Al, Ti
fixed headlights
lighter driveshaft
lighter flywheel, clutch
lighter engine components
Most all of this comes with compromises you prolly don't want to make. But in case you had not considered...
I appreciate the list! but yeah pretty much everything on that list is done other than passenger seat/belts and the p/s removal as i'm still debating on those. Changing steel hardware out for lighter hardware/fastners and modified supports/so on will be bottom of the list as we did that stuff with my fathers super stock car, went to airplane yards and scavenged titanium fastners, took forever. I will be changing the exhaust as i will be adding rocker extensions and will exit them out the side/sides, don't know about using aluminum at the collectors though, would think that will fatigue with all that heat?
I appreciate the thoughts from everyone!
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It looks like you want to take 50 lbs from the left front and move it to the right rear.
I think axing the powersteering would shave almost 50lbs from the front. Then maybe add some weight in the RR.
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Wow Erik, that is awesome - Congrats.
Do you get any contingency prizes like tires for the win? I'll be interested to share notes with you after you install the front bearing spacers. I know some guys have gone to steel/aftermarket hubs.. I'm not sure those are needed.
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It looks like you want to take 50 lbs from the left front and move it to the right rear.
I think axing the powersteering would shave almost 50lbs from the front. Then maybe add some weight in the RR.
I think removing power steering with Erik's setup is a non starter.
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Thoughts for weight reduction:
braided lines swap for the nylon ones
stainless hardware for non bearing bolts
drop powersteering, lose serp. belt and go alternator tension only from BMR: http://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=products&productid=248 (http://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=products&productid=248)
fixed seat brackets (not sure if you have these - but sliders are heavy)
Ditch pass seat
Fixed seat belts rather than inertia reels
Shorten exhaust, exit behind front wheels
change remaining exhaust to aluminum/ti
change bracing/supports/subframe to Al, Ti
fixed headlights
lighter driveshaft
lighter flywheel, clutch
lighter engine components
Most all of this comes with compromises you prolly don't want to make. But in case you had not considered...
I appreciate the list! but yeah pretty much everything on that list is done other than passenger seat/belts and the p/s removal as i'm still debating on those. Changing steel hardware out for lighter hardware/fastners and modified supports/so on will be bottom of the list as we did that stuff with my fathers super stock car, went to airplane yards and scavenged titanium fastners, took forever. I will be changing the exhaust as i will be adding rocker extensions and will exit them out the side/sides, don't know about using aluminum at the collectors though, would think that will fatigue with all that heat?
I appreciate the thoughts from everyone!
Going to go with Boom Tubes in the Rockers? The rocker extensions will help round out the aero package!
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https://youtu.be/R2uKWr4e_7I
Small clip from the weekend :cheers:
Dude, where are your gloves??? :o
And please tell me you're not driving in blue jeans. I hope you at least had a HANS device...
With what we spend on these cars, don't skimp on a couple grand of equipment that could literally save your life. :halo:
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It looks like you want to take 50 lbs from the left front and move it to the right rear.
I think axing the powersteering would shave almost 50lbs from the front. Then maybe add some weight in the RR.
I think removing power steering with Erik's setup is a non starter.
That's the hard part, trying to play tetris with the weight and get it in the right rear! Yeah the power steering is something that is valuable both ways, makes driving waaaay easier with those big tires but it also would be a easy to remove wight that is on that front left :( I will be shifting the surge tank and the battery to that side of the vehicle as its in the middle right now.
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Wow Erik, that is awesome - Congrats.
Do you get any contingency prizes like tires for the win? I'll be interested to share notes with you after you install the front bearing spacers. I know some guys have gone to steel/aftermarket hubs.. I'm not sure those are needed.
I do which can help out a lot, hoosier does up to two tires per day depending on how many are competing in your class. So depending you could win a set a tires a weekend = 1500.00! Fortune does contingency, up to 300 per win towards fortune product - revalves, upgrades, new product. Carbotech does racer discounts. I only have decals of companies that pay contingency or that support me with great customer service such Ronin and fuelab, both of them have helped me so much over the years, gone so far above and beyond I can only hope to pay them back.
I will definitely let you know what happens after the spacers, i'm hoping I don't need to go to steel hubs and I don't think I will as after this past weekend I am thrilled, that is the best repeating brake pedal and pad wear I have EVER had, it can only get better with these! :cheers:
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https://youtu.be/R2uKWr4e_7I
Small clip from the weekend :cheers:
Dude, where are your gloves??? :o
And please tell me you're not driving in blue jeans. I hope you at least had a HANS device...
With what we spend on these cars, don't skimp on a couple grand of equipment that could literally save your life. :halo:
Well all the safety equipement was in the trailer if that makes it any better :banghead: Yeah, I know i shouldn't go out with nothing on, even though rules allow it, TT is just about as dangerous as racing - parts fail, people do stupid things, speeds are just as high. I gear up for the W2W racing but forget sometimes for time trials, my wife gets on my ass too :cheers:
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Yeah, I'm pretty attached to my skin, and would prefer it stays attached to me. :wave:
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Finally got a little time to get to work on aero changes!
APR helped out on the new wing which is the GT-250, 71" span with 10" chord. Had to make new extensions to get the proper AOA settings I wanted but no big deal, they made the mounts to match my old wing so I didn't have to make new mounts :) Finally have a wing I can stand on haha
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_10/medium_9158.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=9158)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_10/medium_9159.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=9159)
So the wing was all of 30 min to install, the new splitter was more like two full days to engineer and fab :( It turn out very nice for all of about 200 bucks in it. Material is HDPE, once I have tested it and need no more revisions I will send it off and have it made from carbon. I used nut inserts from the bottom as to not pull through and to keep the bottom as flat as possible, it is one piece and extends back to the oil pan. All adjustment rods, heims and brackets are 4130 steel. End plates I made from extra carbon fiber I had laying around, I'll make some nicer looking ones when I get more materials and begin to finalize. I can jump on it and it just bounces the suspension, so its pretty solid!
As of right now its about 40lbs which isn't horrible but its on the wrong end of the car, carbon will improve stiffness and reduce weight by about a 1/3 when done right. I will be most likely changing end plates and adding some center dividers, maybe dive planes/canards but I need to see what the balance feels like first. I will be making the mounts under the bumper cover out of 4130 and using quick pins for those as well so I can remove the assembly quickly to help with any repairs needed on the car.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_10/medium_9161.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=9161)
1-1/4" light wall 4130 steel, slips over a mount and has a bolt through it to keep it from moving forward. center support mounts go to the two small tubes that protrude through the cover.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_10/medium_9152.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=9152)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_10/medium_9162.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=9162)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_10/medium_9155.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=9155)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_10/medium_9154.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=9154)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_10/medium_9156.jpeg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=9156)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_10/medium_9157.jpeg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=9157)
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last pic is awesome hahaha
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+1 on the epic last picture. That's awesome.
A couple thoughts on the aero front:
I really think you should be able to get that lip down to 8-10 lbs or so. You just need to find someone who' can lay up carbon with a core (or else make it yourself.) There are a variety nicer composite cores available (Divinycell rigid PVC foam would be a good one), but even something as simple as balsa wood would be a massive step in the right direction. Target 1/2 or 5/8" core thickness and you can probably do as little as two or three layers of carbon twill on each face. You will need to add inserts to avoid crushing it with bolts and you'll also want wrap the front edge, but that's a great way to build in an aero friendly lead radius. Hell, you're already set up to do it since the first one you make becomes a perfect template to cut the foam core and locate inserts.
Remind me, have you done anything to support the wing inside the car? I'm guessing the sheet metal will be the weak link. The span where you have it mounted is unsupported otherwise. so I wouldn't recommend standing on it yet!
When will you be taking it back out?
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Nice job with the splitter, I want to build something similar eventually, I like how you did the mounting.
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+1 on the epic last picture. That's awesome.
A couple thoughts on the aero front:
I really think you should be able to get that lip down to 8-10 lbs or so. You just need to find someone who' can lay up carbon with a core (or else make it yourself.) There are a variety nicer composite cores available (Divinycell rigid PVC foam would be a good one), but even something as simple as balsa wood would be a massive step in the right direction. Target 1/2 or 5/8" core thickness and you can probably do as little as two or three layers of carbon twill on each face. You will need to add inserts to avoid crushing it with bolts and you'll also want wrap the front edge, but that's a great way to build in an aero friendly lead radius. Hell, you're already set up to do it since the first one you make becomes a perfect template to cut the foam core and locate inserts.
Remind me, have you done anything to support the wing inside the car? I'm guessing the sheet metal will be the weak link. The span where you have it mounted is unsupported otherwise. so I wouldn't recommend standing on it yet!
When will you be taking it back out?
I would love to do that! but I am not the best with carbon and I don't have the equipment to do it right so I am trying to find someone to do it right for me. I have never been great with composite materials :(
Yes the mounts are tied into the cage and the floor. Hard to see it in this pick but you can see the two bars going from the rear to the cross bar between the wheel wells. The other two are straight up and down, tied into the unibody frames on the sides.
I have already stood on it but I didn't have anyone with me to take a pic! I can stand out on the sides which is pretty awesome, proper made carbon parts are just sweet!!
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_9/medium_8227.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=8227)
I am running it this weekend so testing starts tomorrow! I'm pumped! :cheers:
Thanks guys! I thought that pic was pretty cool too!
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Damn, you could have a family picnic on that splitter. :poke:
Seriously, though, that's some nice work. I really like your mounting solution.
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Awesome!
Was just thinking about bracing the trunk area for my wing yesterday.. was planning a similar setup to what you have already done.
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All of the little things in this cars build and track development really make it special.
Thank you for sharing.
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Really great job!!! Can't wait to hear about the weekend!
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Thanks guys!
Well round one of the new aero didn't go as planned on . We had a good amount of rain, standing water on the track for the first day and all i had was my scrub r7's haha HYDROPLANE :o Car felt ok when things dried out, rear high speed grip wasn't what i hoped for and ended up with the wing at like 22* AOA which caused major drag, could see the mph was down but it was the only way to somewhat balance the car at speed. Front splitter design was tough as nails but heavy, like 30lbs heavy so that was frustrating but it was a good template. Front end would turn in at any speed, so at least we had that going for us. Ended up about 4 seconds off the fastest over all and second place in class, went home with some knowledge gained.
Round two! Change everything! haha
I re-designed the front splitter from 5mm alumacorr and designed larger end plates. I highly recommed this stuff for aero, its awesome. Highly rigid and very very light, about $120 a sheet so very reasonable cost wise. Rear wing moved up 7" above roof height and 4" behind the bumper. Time to find out what it does! Next up Hallett summer shootout in oklahoma --- 6-24\25
Amazingly aero settings out of the box were damn near spot on the first day at Hallett, wing was set at 16* AOA and first run out the car was VERY neutral. I was pumped! Set tire pressures and just focused on me adapting to the new grip for the weekend. Couple of notes......Pad knock back was rearing its head again though, I think I need to just torque the front wheel bearings again but not sure. New brake pads from G-Loc are awesome, five stars for that and glad I made the change.
Took 1st place in class both days, corded the fronts and kept up with the radicals/aero cars in the unlimited class. We are really starting to gain ground! No records broken this weekend but I didn't expect it, untested stuff and old tires. Time to put fresh hoosiers on and go to hastings, to bad its not until sept 1st :(
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_10/medium_9215.jpeg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=9215)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_10/medium_9216.jpeg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=9216)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_10/medium_9217.jpeg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=9217)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_11/medium_9218.jpeg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=9218)
One small note I did make a new shifter knob from delrin, really like the feel of it, adds a little weight to the throw.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/albums/LS_FC_TRACK_BUILD/Dir_11/medium_9220.jpg) (https://www.norotors.com/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view;id=9220)
Video from Hallett so you can see me work my knob..... :yay: https://youtu.be/b9KUfjHx4RI
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Congrats! Glad the aero is starting to work out.
I bought a weighted knob for my Focus ST and figured I'd never notice. It's actually surprisingly nice and adds some solidity to the action. A better purchase than I expected.
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Where did you get the sheet of alumacorr?
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Keep a close eye on those wing pedestal pads. I've seen much less collapse the factory sheet metal there. Give some consideration for adding a mini strut/brace off the rear wing mount going to the bumper area.
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Keep a close eye on those wing pedestal pads. I've seen much less collapse the factory sheet metal there. Give some consideration for adding a mini strut/brace off the rear wing mount going to the bumper area.
I believe Erik had some bracing in that area. Check the picture of the trunk area above.
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My concern is that with the wing moved back, it's going to want to crease the area above the tail lights and crunch it forward, even if reinforced from the inside. I run a strut through one of the mounting bolt holes on the wing mount just for that reason. May be fine, but keep an eye on it. Waaay too nice a car to lose at speed from sheet metal collapsing!
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Where did you get the sheet of alumacorr?
I got mine from Gantz Sign supply company, all the sign shops wanted to hose me so I figured out where they get supplies. :cheers:
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Perfect! They have a branch 20 minutes from my house.
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My concern is that with the wing moved back, it's going to want to crease the area above the tail lights and crunch it forward, even if reinforced from the inside. I run a strut through one of the mounting bolt holes on the wing mount just for that reason. May be fine, but keep an eye on it. Waaay too nice a car to lose at speed from sheet metal collapsing!
I appreciate it Supe. The wing mounts are fully reinforced, it does look deceiving though since it looks so simple. The inside of the top edge and rear edge of the hatch opening (above the tail lights) has 1/8" 4130 plate welded to 1" 4130 rod that is attached to the cage and to the frame, both vertically and horizontally. So it basically has what your talking about, just on the inside. The weakest point, I think, would be the material used for the wing stands, 3/16" 6061 aluminum plate but I felt 1/8" 4130 steel plate might be a bit much and a bit heavy. :cheers:
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My concern is that with the wing moved back, it's going to want to crease the area above the tail lights and crunch it forward, even if reinforced from the inside. I run a strut through one of the mounting bolt holes on the wing mount just for that reason. May be fine, but keep an eye on it. Waaay too nice a car to lose at speed from sheet metal collapsing!
I appreciate it Supe. The wing mounts are fully reinforced, it does look deceiving though since it looks so simple. The inside of the top edge and rear edge of the hatch opening (above the tail lights) has 1/8" 4130 plate welded to 1" 4130 rod that is attached to the cage and to the frame, both vertically and horizontally. So it basically has what your talking about, just on the inside. The weakest point, I think, would be the material used for the wing stands, 3/16" 6061 aluminum plate but I felt 1/8" 4130 steel plate might be a bit much and a bit heavy. :cheers:
Good deal, the vertical section wasn't evident from the pic. :cheers:
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Hey Erik,
I know the car is sold, but it's still one of my all time favorites. I just threw a link to this build on Ronin's website. On the off chance you check this, I though I should make sure that's cool. Hope you're well.
-Joel
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Hey Erik,
I know the car is sold, but it's still one of my all time favorites. I just threw a link to this build on Ronin's website. On the off chance you check this, I though I should make sure that's cool. Hope you're well.
-Joel
:cheers:
Was one of my favorites also. I tried to emulate some of his build in my car at the time.
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I am still kicking myself I didn’t buy this thing.
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Hey Erik,
I know the car is sold, but it's still one of my all time favorites. I just threw a link to this build on Ronin's website. On the off chance you check this, I though I should make sure that's cool. Hope you're well.
-Joel
Thanks Joel, this car will always have a place in my heart, I didn't really want to sell it but such is life!! You can use any pic or link you like as you were a great part of it as well! I and the family are doing great!
I bought a new house and shop last year which took a bit to settle into but things are going good, seems i'm adding equipment every day haha. Racing took a sideline to customer cars for the past year or so but I feel that's a good thing, have to grow the business first!
I will be doing another RX7 in the near future, just haven't found the shell I want just yet.
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:cheers:
Was one of my favorites also. I tried to emulate some of his build in my car at the time.
[/quote]
I am still kicking myself I didn’t buy this thing.
Thanks guys, means a lot hearing that! Hopefully V2.0 will meet your expectations!
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Man, V1.0 was a knockout, can't wait to see V2.0!
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I will be doing another RX7 in the near future, just haven't found the shell I want just yet.
RAD! Quite glad to hear that.
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I doubt you've decided but what generation?
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I doubt you've decided but what generation?
Not sure to be honest, either FD or FC..... I kinda want to do another FC as I know them so well but have always had a thing for a FD too. I'm just patiently watching and waiting for either to appear, something will fall into my lap saying this is the one.
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If you go FD, Ronin has something new... FYI:
http://www.roninspeedworks.net/index.php?route=product/product&path=59&product_id=111
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If you go FD, Ronin has something new... FYI:
http://www.roninspeedworks.net/index.php?route=product/product&path=59&product_id=111
That's really nice Joel! I'm glad to see you are still developing for these cars!
Well...... I went a different direction for the next build but for my racing purposes I feel it suits my needs and as open minded/engineer minded as this group always is I think you will enjoy watching the build process. I will still be doing a RX7 once I find a shell I want but its going to be street car focused this time, basically what the FC started out as before I went HAM with racing W2W - blower, lsx block, Ronin body work. Amazingly the wife agrees with all this! So that's something to look forward to.
So I thought I might do a little update via some snippets and pic's on what I was doing since selling the FC without being to in depth and overly boring! It will take me a minute but ill attach pics to this post, so if you're looking at it with ??? just give me a few to post them. :drive: :cheers:
This little car has a long story behind it but it is what I was building when I sold the RX7. Started out as just a plain ptd build for NASA and evolved over the past 4 years or so. Sadly I didn't have any pics of it in ptd form but it pretty much looked the same as ST5.
First version - ST5, 144hp 1.6L , 2300lbs - placed 3rd at nationals in 2018 at COTA - had a ton of fun in this form. Disposable cars are blast when you race with no worries!! Honestly the best money I have spent doing this and wouldn't mind building another like it.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/566-211021171637-130321560.jpeg)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/566-211021172149-13034663.jpeg)
video of the last race that motor and drivetrain was used in.
https://youtu.be/fWcSf4KKJdA
Version 2 was fun as well! ST4 - 200hp 2.4L Ecotec LE5, 2300lbs again -
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/566-211021172254-130371090.jpeg)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/566-211021172248-13036423.jpeg)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/566-211021171621-130311639.jpeg)
Big tires for a little car equal big fun!!
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/566-211021171658-13033457.jpeg)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/566-211021172644-13038688.jpeg)
Here is a race from earlier this spring!
https://youtu.be/hxGRml2AYFY
Now! onto the next!! Sold the Miata about 3 months ago to a customer in St. Louis and was bouncing around ideas for a while................ I want a v8 again, want the same weight as the miata but more room inside........
So here we are - 2017 BRZ
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/566-211021172644-130381939.jpeg)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/566-211021172646-130402403.jpeg)
and currently fixing the body before we start fab work.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/566-211021172706-130411429.jpeg)
So hopefully that's not too boring but enough to catch up a little and show the beginning of the new project. Basics are - 2300lbs, 4.8L LS3 block, lots O compression and E85 as usual, tr6060 trans.
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very cool. Lots of things going on for you in the last two years. Interested to see more of your BRZ progress.
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Super cool! BRZ project sounds rad.
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Glad to hear from you again! Cool projects as always.
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Interested to see how the BRZ build goes. I have thought about one of those for drifting for awhile. I would be happy with 2500 lbs since that is what my RX7 weighs right now.
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Cool stuff. I considered LS swapping a BRZ or FR-S before I bought my FD.
I drove a stock one, and they're pretty fun little cars.
Keep us posted on the build. 8)
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Thanks guys! Yeah I'm pretty excited, first new-er car that ive built and its been really nice so far.
Will have the body work all done and be home middle of the week!
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/566-011121165632-130421151.jpeg)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/566-011121165635-13046207.jpeg)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/566-011121165634-130461287.jpeg)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/566-011121165639-13048595.jpeg)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/566-011121165644-13049240.jpeg)
The interior and engine bay is going to be fun to shoot after getting all the fab work and cage done, the FC was pretty easy in a single stage black epoxy but this is a tri-coat. I might just use the base without the mid as its really close and will be easier to touch up but I might say screw it and do it like the exterior just for the extra pop. This has pearl in it, just hard to see in this lighting and my junk phone.
:cheers:
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Lots of good aftermarket for the BRZ platform and LS swaps. Multiple options for Canbus integration and plug and play kits even. Looks like only MINOR hammer work needed and no cutting on firewall, subframe, etc. Which kit are you going to use to mount it? Sikky?
Paint looks amazing!
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Lots of good aftermarket for the BRZ platform and LS swaps. Multiple options for Canbus integration and plug and play kits even. Looks like only MINOR hammer work needed and no cutting on firewall, subframe, etc. Which kit are you going to use to mount it? Sikky?
Paint looks amazing!
Thanks!! It came out really good!
As for kits, I'm not buying anything. I'll make it myself as I want to maximize weight placement within the rule set I have to deal with. I will set the engine and trans as far back as the rules allow and will be using a Haltech nexus for controls, not sure on what dash yet but will probably use the IC7 again. :cheers:
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All done with paint work for now and back home to start the fabrication process! Right after I register it so I can have tags... you know for testing purposes. :)
It came out great and I am really pleased, she's straight and shiny again!
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/566-051121114228-13054167.jpeg)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/566-051121114228-130542392.jpeg)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/566-051121114225-13050486.jpeg)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/566-051121114225-130501521.jpeg)
I might service it and drive it for a little bit before the snow hits, its a pretty fun little car stock!
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If only I fit into one of those. Would make a great track rat car. Too afraid to get serious about tracking with the 7.
I hope my paint comes out that nice.
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Looks great. This will be a fun project.
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Moving a lot slower than I hoped for but such is life, been plugging away at tear down and getting the cage built. Lots of parts arriving, kinda happy its been dragging a bit as custom pistons took 10 weeks, cam was 8 weeks and so on. I'll post more on that later as we get to the engine portion, can't have desert before dinner :cheesy:
Currently I have been spending a great deal of time getting the cage fit super tight as I wanted to do this one without any gussets from the tubing to the body (just weld the tubes straight to the pillars) and to maximize headroom and triangulation. So far its been going great!
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/566-240522120141-13322518.jpeg)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/566-240522120143-133221552.jpeg)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/566-240522120220-13346959.jpeg)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/566-240522120234-13347884.jpeg)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/566-240522120240-133481092.jpeg)
sorry for the sideways pic of the B pillar touching the main hoop but its all i had of that.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/566-240522120254-133492109.jpeg)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/566-240522120311-133511075.jpeg)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/566-240522120315-133512339.jpeg)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/566-240522120332-1335335.jpeg)
Need to finish X'ing the rear down bars, X the main hoop and do the harness bars then the main cage fab is done. I will be keeping the EPS so i need to make mounts of for the motor/wheel next as well. Then once that is all done I'll start the engine conversion! :cheers:
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nice! I still want to build one of these bad
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Nice plinths.
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Thanks guys. :cheers:
Well, the main cage work in the cabin is done but I still need to do little things for belt containment - center net, harness loops and what not - but overall I am very pleased with the fitment and the room is fantastic. I kept the EPS along with the tilt and telescopic column which will be a great addition as its always a pain to find that perfect feel and position. I'll control the EPS with a rheostat switch on the dash.
Now its time to pull the drivetrain and get the engine/trans fitted along with tying in the roll cage to the strut towers and front rails.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/566-310522164044-13359356.jpeg)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/566-310522164053-13360798.jpeg)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/566-310522164100-13361582.jpeg)
On a side note I got to see a formula vee I helped restore be raced and I get to drive it around the paddock! Fun little thing!
I didn't take too many pics during the process but here is a couple, one in the middle somewhere and the finished product. It was last raced in '84.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/566-310522164028-13354397.jpeg)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/566-310522164037-1335881.jpeg)
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(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/566-130622175252-133622322.jpeg)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/566-130622175339-133671980.jpeg)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/566-130622175318-13365553.jpeg)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/566-130622175337-13367135.jpeg)
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That edelbrock manifold looks awesome. No clearancing needed for the headers?
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what headers are those?
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Headers just drop right in (these cars have so much room) and they are originally meant for a GTO - JBA stainless shorties. I am going to finish weld the primaries to the flanges (being picky) and cut the ball flange off to fit some merge bullets, longer collector and a v-band.
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Headers just drop right in (these cars have so much room) and they are originally meant for a GTO - JBA stainless shorties. I am going to finish weld the primaries to the flanges (being picky) and cut the ball flange off to fit some merge bullets, longer collector and a v-band.
Sorry if I missed it, is that a Sikky mount kit?
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Headers just drop right in (these cars have so much room) and they are originally meant for a GTO - JBA stainless shorties. I am going to finish weld the primaries to the flanges (being picky) and cut the ball flange off to fit some merge bullets, longer collector and a v-band.
Sorry if I missed it, is that a Sikky mount kit?
Nope, all me on this one. :cheers:
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Headers just drop right in (these cars have so much room) and they are originally meant for a GTO - JBA stainless shorties. I am going to finish weld the primaries to the flanges (being picky) and cut the ball flange off to fit some merge bullets, longer collector and a v-band.
gotta love that. Definitely a big savings there. I found some block hugger headers that fit the LS1 in an FD but I did that so long ago and have sold that car so I don't remember where I got them or even what brand they were.
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Headers just drop right in (these cars have so much room) and they are originally meant for a GTO - JBA stainless shorties. I am going to finish weld the primaries to the flanges (being picky) and cut the ball flange off to fit some merge bullets, longer collector and a v-band.
Cool! V bands are so nice you won't go back once you use them I just converted on my FB.
This chassis looks like its gonna be super easy to build, makes me want one especially since there is so much drift support for them too
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Didn't get as far as I wanted but still decent progress, customer stuff comes first sadly. Strut tower bars are done, hood pins in, mounts are finalized. Need to make the shifter linkage and figure out what I want to do on the brakes/clutch, either a reverse hanging pedal setup or I will have to mount a clutch master cylinder to the inside bracketry since for some reason the BRZ has a master on the right of the booster which would hit the left cylinder head if tried to use that spot.
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/566-200622184022-133701872.jpeg)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/566-200622184020-133702059.jpeg)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/566-200622184038-133741758.jpeg)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/566-200622184225-13381975.jpeg)
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/566-200622184217-133761790.jpeg)
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My wife having fun taking pics while i'm working :grin:
(https://www.norotors.com/gallery/566-200622184221-133791478.jpeg)
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Progress is looking good!
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Didn't realize how far forward the placement of the TB is on the ultra-low ram. Interesting. Could make it tough to use in an FD.
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Progress has been slow, but such is life as we all know. On target now for the beginning of next season though :cheers: I may bounce aroung here a bit since a lot has been done since the last time I posted!
Everything is basically in place now and hopefully I can get the wiring complete over the next few weeks along with ordering all the plumbing materials.
Still the core engine in the car but everything is coated and accounted for now! The new engine is all machined and ready for assembly but I'm waiting till last for that.
(https://i.imgur.com/cyju0t0.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/tRHfHDK.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/0y85zEE.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Pch6qEi.jpg)
Lots of improved racing goodies in here once again.
Shot of the front grille/air dam
(https://i.imgur.com/0Jh6jQ5.jpg)
Exhaust came out pretty good, it's all cerakoted glacier black now to help with temps and discoloration. The intake and such is regular cerakote ruby red.
(https://i.imgur.com/2Qggsi8.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/i4K1co8.jpg)
Now for the item that I spent entirely too much time and effort on. Started out with a template that changed about 10 times, 3d scanned, modified, sent to a friend that does this sort of thing for a living - fea, testing at 1klbs load in simulation with esses, 20g shock load and several other things to end up with this in .500 6061.....
(https://i.imgur.com/II2tL4n.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/eNrTf3A.jpg)
I beveled, knife edged and rounded everything by hand with a router and 3 different bits, talk about a huge ass mess but the other option was to have things cnc cut and make them $2000 wing stands :barf:
(https://i.imgur.com/RTWEhmZ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ln2J8Z1.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/DRjXuLU.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/fbFjbhW.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/hrGYDnV.jpg)
Trunk area - fire bottle, fuel cell, accusump
(https://i.imgur.com/5dGxtFB.jpg)
During the interior process -
(https://i.imgur.com/THttvX9.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/YjgFKP2.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/BGdD4nK.jpg)
Firewall...
(https://i.imgur.com/nbFLrg2.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ItEAEnr.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ac6lr9W.jpg)
shot of the coolant tank as i was fabbing it.
(https://i.imgur.com/MprqdM3.jpg)
battery and diff pump mounting
(https://i.imgur.com/rV92Rfp.jpg)
Mk60 abs, radio, ecu, pdm, disconnect, wb controller, brake reservoir and coolsuit cooler - the dash has quick fasteners and comes out in about 10 seconds.
(https://i.imgur.com/ZeTIJ1c.jpg)
Dash in its current state, need to put the usb connector for the aim pdm in the dash by the one for the haltech then its all there basically. You can see the rear view monitor up at the top as well.
(https://i.imgur.com/ofBvMkI.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/5J89hdf.jpg)
Can slightly see the floor mount tilton pedals. Went with those versus the wilwood due to higher leverage.
(https://i.imgur.com/WEhFwEI.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/pIojzsm.jpg)
17x10 wheels, toyo rr 255/45r17 for now - HP benefit with classing for the less sticky tire. 13" alcon rotors with wilwood superlites. Same as I had on the FC so good enough for this girl!
(https://i.imgur.com/lDFFHS3.jpg)
stock'ish rears
(https://i.imgur.com/6cRTgAc.jpg)
And here we are so far!!!
(https://i.imgur.com/Xq4SGuq.jpg)
I know that was probably a lot in one bite but if you're curious about something I'm happy to answer! Starting to get motivated again now that life stopped !@#$ing me :grin:
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Have details on the engine yet? Saw it was a destroked LS3.
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That is some beautiful workmanship all around. This thing's gonna be too pretty to put on track though. :D
I like the side exit exhaust concept, though I think I'd have done an X-Pipe and run 3" outlets on each side, just for symmetry.
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Fab work looks great! I love the exhaust!
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Man I love your work! Beautifully put together.
Is it really a de-stroked LS3? 8) :popcorn:
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Damn that is awesome brother!
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Have details on the engine yet? Saw it was a destroked LS3.
She is all machined up and ready to assemble but I am waiting to do that last as I don't like fresh motors to sit around while I fabricate and such. I will make sure to post pics and details as everyone, as much as me, enjoys the engine builds!
Man I love your work! Beautifully put together.
Is it really a de-stroked LS3? 8) :popcorn:
Thanks! and btw your FC is looking spectacular!
Yes it sure is! all 331ci
Fab work looks great! I love the exhaust!
That is some beautiful workmanship all around. This thing's gonna be too pretty to put on track though. :D
I like the side exit exhaust concept, though I think I'd have done an X-Pipe and run 3" outlets on each side, just for symmetry.
Thanks! and yeah, I went in circles for a bit on the design, ended up with this for a little weight offset to the passenger side and try to keep some heat away from the drivers side. Hopefully it sounds good! :cheers:
Damn that is awesome brother!
Thanks LOF! sorry to read about front end damage on yours!
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(https://i.imgur.com/atbt7Moh.jpg)
Little outside profile shot while I'm working on other vehicles. :popcorn: Im pretty pleased with the overall look so far but I think re-designing the wing mounts (for the twenty millionth time :tongue:) to have an arc that matches the A pillars would look better, little more swoopy I would say. Something I'll do at a later date when I have more time but for now its keep stuffing parts in it!
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A curve to match the A pillars would look great!
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I love the wing mounts, I think you should keep em.
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Thanks guys. I'll make a second set out of some scrap and see what we think. I have also been playing with how to put LED's in them for brake lights like the V8 supercars have in the wing stands.
Slowly chipping away and ordering more materials. I got the diff and trans coolers mounted in final position. The hard lines for the fuel and oil are done along with the fire suppression being plumbed now, pull cables included. Sadly, I didn't take completed picks of the fire system, I'll do that this week. I also finished the cooling lines in the engine bay.
(https://i.imgur.com/uUinMYfh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/tL1RSTkh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/bLP7ZWnh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/IrdjToGh.jpg)
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(https://i.imgur.com/OQfmUAQh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/yNwv5D9h.jpg)
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Thanks guys. I'll make a second set out of some scrap and see what we think. I have also been playing with how to put LED's in them for brake lights like the V8 supercars have in the wing stands.
Slowly chipping away and ordering more materials. I got the diff and trans coolers mounted in final position. The hard lines for the fuel and oil are done along with the fire suppression being plumbed now, pull cables included. Sadly, I didn't take completed picks of the fire system, I'll do that this week. I also finished the cooling lines in the engine bay.
I was just staring at the first picture for quite a while wondering how you managed to stuff a multi-link rear into your FC :D
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Thanks guys. I'll make a second set out of some scrap and see what we think. I have also been playing with how to put LED's in them for brake lights like the V8 supercars have in the wing stands.
Slowly chipping away and ordering more materials. I got the diff and trans coolers mounted in final position. The hard lines for the fuel and oil are done along with the fire suppression being plumbed now, pull cables included. Sadly, I didn't take completed picks of the fire system, I'll do that this week. I also finished the cooling lines in the engine bay.
I was just staring at the first picture for quite a while wondering how you managed to stuff a multi-link rear into your FC :D
Anything's possible! :) with enough money and time haha
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Lots of little things being done but she's getting closer to engine time. All the plumbing is done in the rear of the car minus brake lines, coolant lines are done and finishing the oil lines now. Much excite!
(https://i.imgur.com/v1tckhxh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/7zFOyOVh.jpg)
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Ok I need to know, how are you plumbing your cooling system fill point into the heater ports like that? It is just a common reservoir? The way mine is now is just a single line from the top of the radiator end tank to the bottom of the surge tank, and the steam port empties into the surge tank, and there's an overflow out to a puke tank.
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Ok I need to know, how are you plumbing your cooling system fill point into the heater ports like that? It is just a common reservoir? The way mine is now is just a single line from the top of the radiator end tank to the bottom of the surge tank, and the steam port empties into the surge tank, and there's an overflow out to a puke tank.
Using the heater line ports for fill/recirc. One side of the can I built is pressurized with the radiator cap on it, steam tubes from the heads all connect to central fitting under the intake manifold then go to that side of the tank (I didn't have the -4 AN nipple welded on for the steam lines yet in that pic) The other half of the tank is the expansion tank/overflow. The tank is positioned at the highest point in the system. So far, it's worked well on several race cars! -12 and -10 lines btw
(https://i.imgur.com/MprqdM3h.jpg)
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Oh damn that is awesome...a two sided tank makes sense!
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Plumbing is basically finished, need to finalize clamps, insulation, small things. Hard lines in the tunnel will be done when the drivetrain comes back out again for motor build and what not. All of the electronics are now in the car minus the rear view camera. Getting close!! I will race this season!! :D
(https://i.imgur.com/vanIoJQh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ui127sih.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/JbIXDakh.jpg)
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(https://i.imgur.com/OZnE7doh.jpg)
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This seriously is like looking at art. I love the simplicity & attention to detail....been staring at your pictures the last 10 minutes.
Curious about your tune. Are you running in SD only or going blended with MAF/VE?
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I wish MaxxECU supported a MAF. Granted, I could probably custom table it within the ECU.
I'd love to run a MAF/SD hybrid like the OEs.
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This seriously is like looking at art. I love the simplicity & attention to detail....been staring at your pictures the last 10 minutes.
Curious about your tune. Are you running in SD only or going blended with MAF/VE?
Thanks!! Just VE for now though. Drivability is much greater with blended which I might jack with later as this is still "street legal" haha
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Thanks for the compliments guys! Trying to make a showy racecar haha :cheers:
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Apparently, I'm horrible at updates but I blame life :P I should be starting it tomorrow barring any other issues! much excite! :cheers:
(https://i.imgur.com/JW7PGfhh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/vZAftaih.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ZOCuruah.jpg)
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(https://i.imgur.com/7F1k01Kh.jpg)
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That thing looks clinical!
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After buying and autocrossing a new GR86 this year, my thought has always been that if the car had another 200 horsepower and some torque (LS) it may be one of the best cars ever created. It is certainly the best affordable sports car on the market today. This may be that perfect car.
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Immaculate work! Well done 8)
I remember when these cars first came out, there was a LA cop who did an LS3 swap immediately after purchasing it. He had nothing but good things to say about the cars behavior with the new power plant.
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Answered my own questions. I forgot this was not an RX7 haha
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Looks good! With your current serpentine setup, you will need to crank down on the manual tensioner to about 30-ftlbs of tension, otherwise the belt will start slipping on the alternator on the shift- especially if you plan to rev over 7k rpm. That belt routing setup doesn't get much belt wrap on the alternator pulley. This is what I have experienced.
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Answered my own questions. I forgot this was not an RX7 haha
Haha I want to know what the question was :poke:
After buying and autocrossing a new GR86 this year, my thought has always been that if the car had another 200 horsepower and some torque (LS) it may be one of the best cars ever created. It is certainly the best affordable sports car on the market today. This may be that perfect car.
I'm hoping this is exactly what I end up with! I love my sons gr86, they feel identical.
Looks good! With your current serpentine setup, you will need to crank down on the manual tensioner to about 30-ftlbs of tension, otherwise the belt will start slipping on the alternator on the shift- especially if you plan to rev over 7k rpm. That belt routing setup doesn't get much belt wrap on the alternator pulley. This is what I have experienced.
That's good to know! I will add that extra bit of torque to it as this for sure is shifting much, much higher than that!
That thing looks clinical!
Thanks Blake! I'm trying!
Immaculate work! Well done 8)
I remember when these cars first came out, there was a LA cop who did an LS3 swap immediately after purchasing it. He had nothing but good things to say about the cars behavior with the new power plant.
Thank you! Yeah, I read about a cop with a white one, probably the same guy! Being I have never driven the stock one in anger time will tell! but I hope it's all I'm after.
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It lives! Bad news is the haltech IO expander died so off for warranty, did not get to drive it as it died right as i was going to head out for a test drive. :banghead: it reads the wheel speeds and controls the shift lock along with reading the brake pressure which triggers the brake lights. Sounds good though!!
Really needs a bath and i guess I wont need to drive with goggles as I'll get the windows done this week, but over all she's done other than partner decals and numbers.
(https://i.imgur.com/VwCTWhkh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Dk0JImEh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/yEi1LQvh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Zxdzlm6h.jpg)
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(https://i.imgur.com/6Le1sbph.jpg)
Very happy how she looks in the sunlight!! :cheers:
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That wing is hanging out over the bridge in the next county. :poke: :D 8)
Seriously, that's a sick swap. Looks really cool. :bacon:
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Super cool!
I'm actually helping a friend with one of these (same color/generation) getting an LS3. Just a street car, but should still be fun.
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How does the power feel with shorter headers(or are they manifolds) vs long tubes? On my LS1 I had gone from JTRs to Sikky mid length and the loss in lower end torque was noticeable. I wonder with the 440, would it still be noticeable.
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How does the power feel with shorter headers(or are they manifolds) vs long tubes? On my LS1 I had gone from JTRs to Sikky mid length and the loss in lower end torque was noticeable. I wonder with the 440, would it still be noticeable.
Probably is a loss in low end, not sure how much though. This thing blows the tires off from damn near idle, in 4th, so not much need for more low end torque :)
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Well after a bunch of little issues to solve we have a functioning car now :cheers: So something helpfull for the hive, 2010 to 2015 tr6060's have a fully splined input shaft vs the 2016 to 2024 tr6060's, those have 1.125 less spline area. Just enough to not engage the second disc on a twin disc :banghead:
(https://i.imgur.com/iYH907A.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ISnDlHe.jpeg)
So off to the dyno!
(https://i.imgur.com/kgRiefr.jpeg)
and some of the main information everyone is here for :popcorn:
(https://i.imgur.com/uVgaPKE.jpeg)
Now a few things here on the dyno graph, almost didn't post this yet as it will be confusing for some but I'm excited that this is doing exactly what i wanted - this isn't the final numbers as I'm nowhere near done yet. The soft rev limit set to 7500 rpm (hard cut is bad for valve train longevity so I don't use it) so it starts to nose over about 7100 rpm, which is why it looks like that. The reason I set the rev limit to this is because for st4 classing its power to weight and since that means this engine will live a majority of its life at about 48-50% throttle I'm not turning it any higher than I need to help with longevity. This will make the max power I can have from 3900k rpm and up. :D I'll post the final graph here in a few weeks when I get back to the dyno. For max power I don't know where it will stop, my guess is about 7800 or so and it will nose over naturally, ill shut it down about 8500 if that's the case. The little 339 ci engine that could 8)
So, you're probably wondering what happened as to why it's not done, well.... Throttle body died, started out as just a redundancy error and then turned into it sticking and causing it to idle at like 2700 rpm plus causing faults and disconnecting still. So, after fighting with that for like 2hrs I said f this, took my ball and went home :punch: New OE throttle body on the way! :cheers:
https://youtu.be/tVQNDYqmnE8?si=2HaR3tyMV9Qo7AXO full power pull
https://youtu.be/ARi4vJXEuEY?si=o3Nid-4szhQk4A8P st4 power pull
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8500... is a lot of RPM. Dang.
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Most GM throttles default to 20% unpowered. If it faulted out bad enough that'll get the rpm up for sure. My idle is around 13%. 20% would probably be around 3k. I'm having issues with quality control. Supposedly a genuine ac Delco 90mm but stick when hot. :-/