FC manual rack to P/S with Toyota MR2 electric Power Steering pump .

[mpcv2000]

1st I have to quote myself in Danzan's post from a while back doing a Toyota MR2 power steering conversion on his LS1 LSX FD.

I want to do the same on my 1989 Turbo II with a LT1 / T56 that has been converted to manual rack.

1st I have to say I have the Granny's manual basic kit [EDIT : I have the Power Steering type  ] on my FC so I'm not sure if I can do that with this subframe since it is not made for P/S application.


Here's some quotes from Danzan's post :



This is from the original thread

Bumping a old thread but there is good info here.

I don't know if someone knows or can confirm that but the 91-99 MR2 has a remote oil reservoir and a adjustable pressure screw compare to the 00 + MR2 Spyder one has a oil reservoir on the pump and the pressure isn't adjustable unless you connect to a VSS.

Which pump should we use ?

Do we need to install a oil cooler or it can be run direct ?

I'm starting to gather parts to convert my LT1 FC to electric power steering next winter so I have all summer to find what I need but sometime it is the time you need to find the right parts at the right price.

June 2011.

I'm slowly gathering parts for my MR2 electric Power Steering conversion.

So far I have the original Power Steering rack that was on my Turbo II ( Thanks to Rob XX 7 for that )  and I have received my 91-95 MR2 electric Power Steering pump.







Now I have many questions.
There is like 7 holes on the power steering rack but I have no idea which one does what ..... 


I put very tiny numbers on every holes and I would like someone to tell me what they do please .




Numbers are small but it is 1 , 2 & 3 :









...4 & 5 here :










...6 , 7 here :









and the pump 8 & 9 :







Talking about this pump , how is it suppose to be mounted ?
Where is the top  ?
Thanks.

You can mount the pump anyway, anywhere,  that allows convenient access for getting to the adjustment screw & simplifies the routing of the pressure, return & remote reservoir hoses

Perfect thanks.
I don't do auto cross or road racing.
This is for a sunny day car so I should be fine.
Thanks. 

^^^  You want the SW20 (91-99) pump.  It does indeed have a 1/2" or 5/8" (I believe 5/8") inlet on the top/side from an external reservoir and a pressure adjustment screw.

I would suggest running a small -6an cooler on the return if you're roadracing/drifting/autox, but for normal spirited driving and light track work it'll be fine.

Make sure you're wiring it up with 8ga wire or thicker and a 50A or 60A fuse & breaker.  I've got 3 or 4 cars using them this year and they peg 50A just firing up at no load, and 60A+ when you're really working it.

4 and 5 go to 6 and 7 via the factory hardlines, but I don't recall the order.  The FC service manual will have that for you.

8 on the pump is the high pressure outlet, 9 is the reservoir inlet.  Mounting is flexible, most people mount so that they can get to the ports and the adjustment set screw on the pump.

I'm sure you will, but get new steering rack bushings.

So here's where I'm at right now Jan 4th 2012:



1st time I work on my car with a lift. 









Here's the manual rack :
















Pictures for reference




































Manual rack is out


















There's not much room.


Is it the basic kit or both cradle have the same clearance ?











No problem here











It may get tricky here :














This is where I'm at right now.

I have all winter to do that so I'm not in a hurry and I will update this thread for a nice "how to for dummies" including  me ..





 

[MPbdy]

Nice!  I've got one of these on the shelf for my fd.  Hopefully you'll have all the bugs sorted out by the time I get around to doing mine 

[DDv8]

You'll need to clearance the pan. hammer works 
Your cradle is for ps (Grant changed most of his cradles to ps style) you might have to fold/grind the pass through on the rear side to clear the lines.
[attach=1]
The pass side hard line hits the tower and must be clearenced.  This is a modified/custom made cradle
[attach=2]
The easyest way to install the ps lines is to leave the rack loose and install lines then mount rack to k frame.engine or k frame out better still

Dennis

[mpcv2000]

You'll need to clearance the pan. hammer works 
Dennis

I have a stroker motor so I don't know if the counter weight are the same as a stock LT1 crankshaft but I'm affraid I may not have enough room.

I have a couple LT1 in stock so I looked at a stock one and if the counter weight are the same I may be able to do it but if the weight is bigger I may run into same clearance issue.







I've decided to shim the subframe instead and I think it may work.



Bad picture but here the new gap with the subframe shimmed:


















Now I'll try to figure out the 2 hard line which one is which and if I can go around the subframe or thru it. 

[DDv8]

If you have origional lines they fit like this

Dennis

[mpcv2000]

Good picture thanks and no I do not have the hard lines , I'll have to make them so if we look at those 2 pics.










There is some tiny numbers on those pictures so #4 plugs into #6  and #5 into to #7 , am I right ?
I have to shop tomorrow I have to figure out what kind of thread , size etc. I need to make some lines.

[DDv8]

Your plumbing is correct.  These fittings are O ring/tube, fitting thread is iirc m10-1.0 
This is what the ends of the tubes are like

[attach=1]
dd

[mpcv2000]

Looks like my steering rack is shot ( needs a rebuilt ) .

When I bought the car the seller told me he removed the Power Steering because it was leaking like hell and swapped it for a manual rack so now I'm ready to put the power steering rack back in the car but found out it needs to be rebuilted.

Mazda sell a seal kit for $143.00 CDN , I'll ake it apart this week end and see if I can source the seals somewhere else.

Here's my rack :


















Today I've received the right side rubber bushing for the power steering rack like you can see on the pictures ( Red bushing = Manual rack ) and right is the new one so yes like people said they are different but the driver side bushing is the same on both rack.






More updates to come.

[mpcv2000]

Your plumbing is correct.  These fittings are O ring/tube, fitting thread is iirc m10-1.0 
This is what the ends of the tubes are like

[attach=1]
dd

Thanks Dennis for the info.

[mpcv2000]

Last thing I'm missing about the hose identification is this :


#1 , #2 and #3 ( tiny numbers on pictures )








I think # 3 is the pressure line comming from the pump ( pressure ) and #1 is return ?


This is my last question about those hose.....

[DDv8]

rack plumbing
[attach=1]

DD

[theantirotor]

if the rack already has leaking problems/no lines it may be a better option to sell it to someone who wants to convert it to a fast ratio manual rack and just get another good used rack.

[mpcv2000]

if the rack already has leaking problems/no lines it may be a better option to sell it to someone who wants to convert it to a fast ratio manual rack and just get another good used rack.

I bought another one already no problem.

rack plumbing
[attach=1]

DD

Mr. Dennis you are the man.

Thanks. 

[mpcv2000]

Got a used rack from a 88 Turbo II 10 AE just for spare parts and the hard lines set up is slightly different then a 89 Turbo II .



1st here a copy of the parts list diagram for a 89 Turbo II :














88 Turbo II with lines





















88 Turbo II hard lines















Top = 88 Turbo II
Bottom = 89 Turbo II












again top is 88 Turbo II and bottom 89 Turbo II

one hard line is sligtly different setup











no progress today , just some cleaning.

This week I'm going to see a low miles steering rack from another 88 Turbo II that looks like new according to the seller so I may pick it up too.

[mpcv2000]

Did some work on the car today and I was wondering what is the difference between the Granny's basic kit ( non power steering ) and the power steering one because the one I have has a hole for the power steering hard lines and I thought is was the only difference between the two .


















It is very hard to have access to the lines while the motor is in place .









This one is almost impossible to tight.









I've decided to drop the subframe but leave the motor in place .









The lift has safety locks but I'm in between them so I have to use jack stands as a safety in case if the cylinders start to drop.









I've put 2 2"X10" to hold the motor and it feels pretty solid so I'm confident enough to drop the subframe.












Subframe is out   










































I'll try to test fit the 88 Turbo II rack later this week to see if the hard lines will fit and if they do I will send the subframe to get sand blasted and powder coated.