Alright. For those of you that are interested, here's a look into the prototype parts I've been putting together for the electrical side of this GB. *Note* NONE of the prototypes pictures are even 1/2 way finished. I just wanted to give you something to look at.
This is an image of 5 parts of the internal LS1 control / wiring kit. These are the relay sockets I have decided to go with. In this pic I'm missing a micro relay, none of the wiring is pictured, the PCM terminals are missing, a diode and fuse is missing, and the plug and play tap-in connectors aren't shown. All this is is something to let you know what the relay side is going to look like. This will need to be mounted close to your PCM.
This is a image of the internal LS2 controller / wiring kit. As you can see it's missing the same components as the LS1 kit. The main difference is that this controller is has a RPM window switch wired in.
Here are the two custom tap-in connectors I've been working hard to make happen. These connectors plug into existing wiring to provide switched 12v and the AC turn on signal from the AC button. This allows you to install the kit without having to make any wiring splices (on the LS1 kit). These connectors were built for demonstration purposes only, so there's no need for any wiring nazi's to break out the FSM to see if I've tapped the correct connector positions
I actually built them on a 15minute lunch break so I even have a bad crimp in the mix. On the same topic the pink wires that tap off of these connectors are only for demonstration purposes. Their loose ends will be connected to the control module in the production version and color and length will be adjusted.
The images above shows the tap-in connector that fits between the dash wiring and the evaporator's thermoswitch to provide a trigger when the A/C button is pressed on the dash.
The links above show the process for installing the 12v switched tap-in connector. This tap-in will be fused off of B2 and will also be sub-fused on the actual control module. The final version will also have a heat shrink sleeve to insulate the open terminal connection on this connection.
Both the LS1 and the LS3/Universal Engine wiring kits will come with tap-in connectors raising the final price to:
LS1 Wiring / Control interior kit = $70
LS2/LS3/Universal Engine wiring / control interior kit = $115.00Finally, I
will not be able to offer an external all-in-one LS3/Universal Engine wiring / control interior kit + fan control/wiring. The idea for this kit was to create a module that could be mounted in the engine bay that would control the AC compressor, but also have fan outputs so you could simply plug up your fan to enable PCM control. After spending a lot of time on the idea, I found that it was not possible to fit everything needed in my weatherproof enclosures of choice.
What I CAN offer to anybody is external fan controllers for $100.
These would be modules that would mount under the passenger side flip up light. The install would consist of connecting a terminal to your fuse box for 12v, tapping into 1 wire for a 12v switched signal, bolting on a ground terminal, plugging to terminals into your PCM (low and high fan control), and plugging in your fans (modules built with plug and play fan connectors). This will enable PCM fan control based on coolant temps. It will also allow your PCM to turn on your fans when you hit your AC switch for cooler A/C temps.
That's pretty much it for now. Like I said, these are rooouuughhh prototypes. The final versions will use cut-to-length color-coded wiring that matches the RX7 factory and GM factory colors.
Lane
